Inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall at Geojoam Hermitage in Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do.
Hermitage History
Geojoam Hermitage is located on the eastern slopes of the famed Mt. Palgongsan (1193 m) in Yeongcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do. And Geojoam Hermitage is a branch hermitage of the neighbouring Eunhaesa Temple. Originally, the hermitage was known as Haeansa Temple. However, there is some dispute as to when the temple was first built.
In fact, there are three theories as to when the temple was first built. The first theory states that the temple was first completed under the watchful eye of Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) in 693 A.D. However, since Wonhyo-daesa died in 686 A.D., it’s highly unlikely that he founded Geojoam Hermitage in 693 A.D. Another theory states that the temple was completed in 738 A.D. by the monk Woncham. And a third theory states that the temple was completed during the reign of King Gyeongdeok of Silla (742 – 765 A.D.) through a royal decree. Whatever theory may be correct, all the theories claim that Geojoam Hermitage was completed before that of Eunhaesa Temple in 809 A.D. Throughout the years, Geojoam Hermitage has been renovated numerous times because of fires.
It’s believed that the Buddhist revival movement, which would become known as Jeonghye Gyeolsa, has its origins at Geojoam Hermitage. The movement was launched by the monk Deukjae, who was also the abbot of Geojoam Hermitage in 1188.
Predating this, in 1182, the monk Jinul (1158-1210) attended a dharma gathering at Bojesa Temple in Kaesong (now in present day North Korea). Here, he learned different meditation techniques. Then, in the spring of 1188, the abbot of Geojoam Hermitage, Deukjae, conducted a Buddhist gathering of fellow monks. It was at this time that Jinul was staying at Bomunsa Temple on Mt. Hagasan in Yecheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do. This meeting was conducted to form Jeonghye Gyeolsa (Concentration and Wisdom Community). This community would later move to Songgwangsa Temple in Suncheon, Jeollanam-do in 1190. It was here that Jinul would continue to grow this new Buddhist community by inviting monks from various Buddhist Orders with whom he had practiced and studied throughout the years before establishing Jeonghye Gyeolsa and Songgwangsa Temple.
The goal of Jeonghye Gyeolsa would be to create a new Buddhist community of pure-minded practitioners deep in the mountains of the Korean peninsula. This new form of Korean Buddhism would ultimately lead to the founding of the Jogye-jong Order. The main focus of Jinul’s new movement was to teach a comprehensive approach to Buddhism that included meditation (Seon), doctrine (Gyo), chanting and lectures. And Jinul’s time at Geojoam Hermitage would help form this new movement.
The Yeongsan-jeon Hall at Geojoam Hermitage from 1932.
During the late Goryeo (918-1392), Geojoam Hermitage would gain a reputation as a great place to pray. This reputation was in large part due to a legend associated with the monk Wonham. In this legend, Wonham met an enlightened being named Nakseo at Geojoam Hermitage. From Nakseo, Wonham learned the teachings that revealed the dharma of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). It was through these teachings that a person could reach an eternal life. This made the hermitage famous for the site of important prayers.
During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), and according to the Buddhist Temples Past and Present, which was published in 1799, Geojoam Hermitage was already closed at this time. Later, the hermitage was renovated. The exact date of this renovation is unknown. However, because the hermitage was largely destroyed, the renovations of Geojoam Hermitage focused on the historic Yeongsan-jeon Hall, which still remained intact.
In 1912, the hermitage changed its name from Geojosa Temple to that of Geojoam Hermitage, when Geojoam Hermitage became a branch hermitage of the neighbouring Eunhaesa Temple. A restoration of the entire hermitage took place in July, 1970, and the roof tiles for the Yeongsan-jeon Hall were repaired, as well, in June, 1978.
Geojoam Hermitage is home to one National Treasure. The Yeongsan-jeon Hall at Geojoam Hermitage is National Treasure #14, and it was first built in 1375, which makes it one of Korea’s oldest wooden structures. In fact, it’s one year older than the famed Muryangsu-jeon Hall at Buseoksa Temple in Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do.
Admission to the hermitage is free.
Hermitage Layout
You first approach Geojoam Hermitage from the hermitage parking lot. You’ll pass under the two-story Jong-ru Pavilion. The first story of the unpainted structure acts as an entryway to the main hermitage courtyard. And inside the second floor of the Jong-ru Pavilion, you’ll find all four of the traditional Buddhist percussion instruments.
Up the stone stairway, you’ll finally enter into the main hermitage courtyard. Straight ahead of you stands the historic Yeongsan-jeon Hall. This National Treasure was first built in August, 1375, making it the third oldest wooden structure at a Korean temple behind the Daeung-jeon Hall at Sudeoksa Temple and the Geukrak-jeon Hall at Bongjeongsa Temple in Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. The reason that we can know the precise age of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall is from calligraphic records found inside the hermitage structure. Also, and because of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall’s age, it allows us to look back into Korea’s past; and more specifically, a look back into the Goryeo Dynasty’s (918-1392) architectural past.
The unadorned exterior walls of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall are unique for its Jusimpo – 주심포 bracketing style. However, it’s the interior, more than the exterior, that makes the shrine hall so special. Housed inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall, you’ll find 526 stone statues dedicated to the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). It’s exceedingly rare to find a temple or hermitage in Korea that houses the Nahan inside the main hall. And if you look close enough, you’ll notice that each of the historic stone Nahan statues has a different facial expression and pose.
Joining the rows of Nahan statues inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall is a main altar centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). Seokgamoni-bul is surrounded by a beautiful stone nimbus. Furthermore, the Yeongsan-jeon Hall has become famous for being able to grant prayers for miraculous virtues.
Out in front of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall is a three-story stone pagoda that dates back to the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. The pagoda is classified as Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Property Material #104.
To the far left of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall, you’ll find the recently built monks’ quarters. And between the monks’ quarters and the Yeongsan-jeon Hall is the hermitage’s Sanshin-gak Hall. This diminutive shrine was built during the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). And housed inside the Sanshin-gak Hall is an image of the Mountain Spirit with a blue robe who is holding a wooden staff.
How To Get There
There is no bus that directly goes to Geojoam Hermitage. Instead, you’ll have to follow the signs that lead you towards the hermitage from the neighbouring Eunhaesa Temple. You can catch a bus from Hayang that leaves about every hour to get to Eunhaesa Temple.
Overall Rating: 8/10
There isn’t all that much to see at Geojoam Hermitage. In fact, there are just a few structures at the hermitage which includes the Jong-ru Pavilion, the Sanshin-gak Hall, and the three-story stone pagoda. However, the size of Geojoam Hermitage means very little because it’s also home to one of Korea’s oldest wooden structures, which just so happens to be a National Treasure, as well. The Yeongsan-jeon Hall at Geojoam Hermitage dates back to 1375, and it gives visitors a helpful insight into what Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) architecture must have looked like. Adding to its overall beauty are the 526 statues of stone Nahan statues inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall, as well. You can spend hours simply marveling over the intricate beauty of this historic hermitage shrine hall so enjoy!
The Jong-ru Pavilion at the entry of the hermitage.
The stairs leading up to the hermitage courtyard.
The four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments on the second-story of the Jong-ru Pavilion.
The historic Yeongsan-jeon Hall that dates back to 1375.
The main altar inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall.
The rows of beautiful stone Nahan inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall.
A row of six Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha).
A closer look at one of the Nahan.
And yet another amazing look at a Nahan.
The three-story stone pagoda in the centre of the hermitage courtyard.
The monks’ dorms to the left of the Yeongsan-jeon Hall.
The diminutive Sanshin-gak Hall that’s located between the Yeongsan-jeon Hall and the dorms.
And the mural dedicated to the Mountain Spirit inside the Sanshin-gak Hall.
This past Sunday we had another new live Korean class, and the topic was the grammar form 다 보니까.
The full form of 다 보니까 is actually 다(가) 보니(까), and we talked about how this form is actually a combination of the grammar ending 다(가), the verb 보다, and the ending (으)니(까). We also learned another usage for (으)니(까) besides "because."
The Samseong-gak Hall at Wonhyodae Temple in Gijang-gun, Busan.
Temple History
Wonhyodae Temple is located in Gijang-gun in eastern Busan. Wonhyodae Temple is located up a long valley just to the south-east of Mt. Daleumsan (588.1 m). Wonhyodae Temple is named after the famous monk Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.), who lived and taught in this part of Busan during the 7th century. In fact, it’s believed that Wonhyodae Temple is located near what was a Silla-era temple named Chwijeongsa Temple, which no longer exists, but was founded by Wonhyo-daesa. And just to the east lies the much smaller Daedosa Temple.
The temple site for Wonhyodae Temple is quite large at nearly 8,000 m2. It was first founded in October, 1898. And it was officially registered as a temple with Gyeongsangnam-do in 1923. The temple is home to half a dozen temple shrine halls, a bell pavilion, and a triad of entry gates.
Temple Layout
You first approach Wonhyodae Temple alongside an offshoot of the neighbouring Ilgwang-cheon River. At the end of this watery offshoot, and down a country road, you’ll find Wonhyodae Temple. Hanging a left towards the temple sign that reads “Wonhyodae – 원효대,” you’ll arrive at the temple parking lot. The first thing to greet you at the temple grounds are a collection of three Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag) statues. The bronze coloured statues are joined to the right by a smaller sized collection of statues. The statues are headed by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is teaching the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha).
Straight ahead, and up a flight of stairs, you’ll next encounter the Cheonwangmun Gate. Inside this temple entry gate are four crudely sculpted statues dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings. Next, passing through the slender Haetalmun Gate, you’ll finally enter the main temple courtyard at Wonhyodae Temple.
Straight ahead of you stands the rather boxy Daeung-jeon Hall. While understated around its exterior, as soon as you step inside the main hall at Wonhyodae Temple, you’ll be greeted by a row of some nine large statues on the main altar. The three central statues are that of Seokgamoni-bul in the middle, who is joined on either side by Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). This triad is then joined to the right by another triad. This triad is centred by Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). This central image is then joined to the right and left by Ilgwang-bosal (The Sun Bodhisattva) and Wolgwang-bosal (The Moon Bodhisattva). And to the left of the main triad is yet another triad. This triad of statues is centred by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This statue is joined on either side by Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). These nine statues on the main altar are joined in the left corner by a shrine dedicated solely to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And hanging on the far right wall is a large Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall are two additional temple shrine halls. The first, which can only be entered through a side entrance to the right, is the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. Resting on the main altar is one of the most elaborate one thousand armed and eleven headed statues of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) in all of Korea. To the right hangs a collection of murals dedicated to prominent monks like Wonhyo-daesa. And to the left of the main altar statue of Gwanseeum-bosal rests a triad of statues centred by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This triad is then joined on the left wall by a black Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
The other shrine hall in this area is the temple’s Myeongbu-jeon Hall. Stepping inside this temple shrine hall, you’ll notice a black haired statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) sitting on the main altar. This statue is joined on either side by the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). The interior of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall is beautifully adorned with dancheong colours. And hanging on the left wall of the hall is a beautiful, modern Dragon Ship of Wisdom mural.
Between the Gwaneum-jeon Hall and the Daeung-jeon Hall is a glass enclosure that also acts as an outdoor shrine. This glass enclosure acts as both the Yongwang-dang Hall, which is dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). This enclosure also has a shrine dedicated to an all-white Gwanseeum-bosal. The Yongwang shrine has a seated image of Yongwang, as well as one of the largest murals of the Dragon King. To the right of Yongwang stands a large image of Gwanseeum-bosal. Both are joined by mountain water that flows in and out of the glass outdoor shrine.
The final shrine hall that visitors can explore at Wonhyodae Temple is the Samseong-gak Hall. Located between the Gwaneum-jeon Hall and the Yongwang-dang Hall, and up a bit of a wooded trail, is the location of the shaman shrine hall. The golden lettering above the entry to the Samseong-gak Hall really stands out and penetrates the eyes. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find multiple images of the three most popular shaman deities in Korean Buddhism. Hanging on the far right wall is an older painting dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the left, and now on the main altar, you’ll find another older image. This time, this smaller painting is dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). This older mural is fronted by a statue of the same shaman deity, Dokseong. To the left of this mural and statue of Dokseong is another mural dedicated to Chilseong. The large mural in the centre, which is fronted by a triad of statues, is another image dedicated to Chilseong. To the left of this third image of Chilseong is a large statue dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), who holds a large golden ginseng root in his hands. Sanshin is also wearing a large emperor’s crown. On the far left wall, you’ll see another older mural dedicated to Sanshin. This painting of the Mountain Spirit is joined by a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) that’s fronted by a statue of Sanshin.
How To Get There
From the Jwacheon Train Station in Gijang-gun, you’ll need to take a taxi to get to Wonhyodae Tepmle. The taxi ride should take about fifteen minutes, and it’ll cost you around 10,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 7/10
There are several key features to Wonhyodae Temple like the loaded Samseong-gak Hall with the ginseng holding Sanshin. Other beautiful features to the temple is the Yongwang-dang outdoor shrine, the elaborate Gwanseeum-bosal statue, and the Daeung-jeon Hall’s main altar that’s filled with images of both Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. While this temple certainly has a more modern feel to it, and it’s also a bit harder to get to, it’s definitely worth a visit for the true temple adventurer.
A collection of Nahan statues listening to the teachings of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha).
A look through the Cheonwangmun Gate at Wonhyodae Temple.
One of the Four Heavenly Kings inside the Cheonwangmun Gate.
The Daeung-jeon Hall at Wonhyodae Temple.
A look across the well-populated main altar inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The shrine dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The outdoor shrine dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King) and Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion).
The mural and statue dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King).
And the statue of an all-white Gwanseeum-bosal.
A look inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall.
And the ornate statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall.
A look inside the well-populated Samseong-gak Hall at Wonhyodae Temple.
And the ginseng-holding statue of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the Samseong-gak Hall.
Ever seen a word that ended with 적 (or 적이다, or 적인, or 적으로...) and wondered what that part meant? It's probably the 한자 ending 的, which is read as 적 and can attach to the end of many 한자 words to change their usage. Specifically, 적 can transform a noun into an adverb, an adjective, and a descriptive verb.
Find out what this 한자 means and how to use it in today's newest episode of "Korean FAQ" right here~!
Anyone who visits Seoul will spot the Han River, as it's one of the most popular spots for both tourists and residents. You can go walking, have a picnic (often with fried chicken), and enjoy the scenery. But if you want to see more of the river you'll have to ride a bicycle. Unfortunately, unless you live close to the Han River, it's not likely you'll have your own bicycle once you get there. Fortunately the Korean government operates an app called "Seoul Bike" (called 따릉이 in Korean), which is an easy and cheap way to rent bikes near the Han River. I brought my friend Miru along and we went for a relaxing 2 hour ride.
The Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple and the Stone Lantern of Gwanchoksa Temple in Nonsan, Chungcheongnam-do.
Temple History
Gwanchoksa Temple in Nonsan, Chungcheongnam-do is located on the diminutive slopes of Mt. Banyasan (100 m). The temple was first founded in 968 A.D., at the start of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), by the monk Hyemyeong-daesa. The temple was rebuilt several times throughout the centuries. And the history of the temple is intermingled with several myths and legends.
Gwanchoksa Temple is home to a National Treasure and a Korean Treasure. The National Treasure is the Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple, which is also known as the Eunjin Mireuk Statue. For the longest of times, it was known as a Korean Treasure, Korean Treasure #218. Then in 2018, that statue became National Treasure #323. As for the Korean Treasure, it’s the Stone Lantern of Gwanchoksa Temple, which is Korean Treasure #232.
Admission to the temple is 1,500 won.
Temple Legends
According to a legend, while a woman was picking wild herbs on Mt. Banyasan, she heard a baby crying. When she went to the spot where she heard the baby crying, there wasn’t a baby; instead, there was a large stone sticking out from the ground. Learning this, the government ordered the monk Hyemyeong to make a Buddha statue from this large stone. Hyemyeong tried to build the Buddha statue employing some one hundred professionals from 968 A.D. to 1006 A.D. However, when they attempted to stand the Eunjin Mireuk Statue, it was too big, so they couldn’t make the statue stand. They were very worried that they wouldn’t ever be able to make the large statue stand. One day Hyemyeong saw two child monks playing with a Buddha statue made of dirt. This statue was cut into three parts. After witnessing this, Hyemyeong rushed back to the temple and told his sculptors to make the ground flat. Following what he had just seen, Hyemyeong told the sculptors to place the bottom part of the statue first on the ground. Afterwards, the middle and upper portions of the Eunjin Mireuk Statue were placed together to complete the statue.
Hyemyeong was to later learn that these two child monks were in fact Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). The reason that they appeared to Hyemyeong in this way was to teach him. And with the Eunjin Mireuk Statue completed, it suddenly started to rain. And for the next twenty-one days, it rained. It was said that there was auspicious energy surrounding the statue at this time and people saw a light shining forth from between the eyes of the statue. In fact, one day a Chinese monk followed this light and ended up at Gwanchoksa Temple. And he said that the light was like a candle’s light, so that’s how the temple became known as “Gwanchoksa.”
There are a couple other legends involving Gwanchoksa Temple. One day, when China had a war with Korea, the Chinese made it all the way up the neighbouring river next to Gwanchoksa Temple. The Eunjin Mireuk Statue disguised itself as a monk with a satgat (a traditional bamboo hat). The statue walked across the river so that the Chinese thought that the river was shallow. Thinking this, the soldiers jumped into the river and drowned. Angry, the Chinese general hit the statue’s satgat with his sword, and the statue’s crown on top of the Eunjin Mireuk Statue was broken. This part of the Eunjin Mireuk Statue still remains broken to this day.
And one more legend concerning the Eunjin Mireuk Statue describes a time when the Korean peninsula was at peace. It was at this time that the body of the statue shined. It was believed to be a sign of the auspicious energy that surrounded the statue. But once a war had broken out on the Korean peninsula, the Eunjin Mireuk Statue started to sweat and the flower in its hand lost its colour. It’s also believed that if you pray to the Eunjin Mireuk Statue that all your wishes will come true.
Gwanchoksa Temple in 1910.
Temple Layout
You first approach the elevated temple grounds from the north. Eventually, you’ll pass through a stately two-pillar Iljumun Gate. After passing through the Iljumun Gate, you’ll next encounter the Cheongwangmun Gate with some shrunken-headed Four Heavenly Kings inside this entry gate. Now making your way up the slight incline, as you make your way zig-zagging up the pathway, you’ll pass under the Banya-ru Pavilion to gain entry to the temple courtyard at Gwanchoksa Temple.
The first temple shrine hall to greet you at Gwanchoksa Temple is the impressive two-story Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to this hall are adorned with various murals of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). And the floral latticework on the front doors to the Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall are beautiful. Stepping inside the Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall, you’ll be welcomed by a rather long and slender main altar and canopy. Sitting in the centre of a triad of statues is that of Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy). This statue is joined on either side by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and Nosana-bul (The Reward Body Buddha). And hanging on the far left wall is a large Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). Also taking up residence inside the Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall are hundreds of smaller golden Mireuk-bul (Future Buddha) statues similar to the famed historic Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple that awaits you.
To the right of the Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall is the Myeongbu-jeon Hall at Gwanchoksa Temple. Housed inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall is a green haired statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). With a staff pointed outwards, he greets any and all visitors to his temple shrine hall. There is also a mural dedicated to Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610) inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, as well. And next to the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, and up a meandering set of stairs, is the temple’s Samseong-gak Hall. This shaman shrine hall houses three rather underwhelming murals dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), Chilseong (The Seven Stars), and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit).
But it’s down the stairs, and back in the main temple courtyard, that’s probably the real reason you’ve traveled all the way to Gwanchoksa Temple. The Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple is 18.12 metres tall, and it was built from 968 – 1006 A.D. The Eunjin Mireuk-bul consists of two large stone pieces. And it’s the largest historic stone Buddha in Korea. The design of the statue is typical of early Goryeo Dynasty designs. And according to a temple legend, before the statue was built, the founding monk, Hyemyeong-daesa, was really worried about how he would find the funds to construct such a large statue. Later, he decided to build the statue anyways, after he realized it was meaningless to worry about the funds, when he saw children playing with mud on the river bank. As was already mentioned, the Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple was a Korean Treasure; however, in 2018, it became National Treasure #323.
As for the actual design of the historic statue, it has an oval shaped head and two piercing cat-like eyes that appear to be meditative in composition and otherworldly, almost alien, in comparison to other statues of Mireuk-bul in Korea. The statue is topped by a 2.43 metre tall crown. This crown is adorned with bells on each of the two levels of the rectangular crown.
Standing in front of the Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple is the Stone Lantern of Gwanchoksa Temple. This stone lantern is Korean Treasure #232. The stone lantern, or “seokdeung – 석등” in Korean, was first built in 968 A.D. by Hyemyeong-daesa. The stone lantern consists of a three-tiered pedestal. The upper and lower portions to this pedestal have a roughly carved lotus flower design. Around the middle section of this pedestal, you’ll find seven bands carved horizontally around it. The stripe in the centre is thicker than the others, and it’s adorned with eight blossoms. Atop this pedestal is a light chamber, which is squarish in design. This design was rather typical of the Goryeo Dynasty. The four windows to the light chamber are disproportionately large. The large finial that sits atop this light chamber is supported by four rather slender pillars from the light chamber. The roof stones to the stone lantern are adorned with floral patterns around the edges, and the eaves of the lantern have a gradual curve upwards at the corners. Perhaps the most unique aspect of the stone lantern is the flame-shaped ornament at the top of the structure. The entire stone lantern looks strong, yet vulnerable. It’s also the second largest historical stone lantern in Korea next to Stone Lantern at Gakhwangjeon Hall of Hwaeomsa Temple, which is National Treasure #12.
In front of the stone lantern, and in front of an old three-story pagoda, you’ll find a Stone for Worship Taking at Gwanchoksa Temple. The square stone is where people paid respect to the Buddha. The worship stone is rectangular in shape, and it has two-stories. In total, there are three lotus flower reliefs on top of this worship stone. The largest, and most beautiful, of the three is in the centre. Each flower has eight petals. The tips of the petals are sharp. There is some debate as to when this worship stone was first created, but it’s assumed to have been made at the same time as the founding of the temple in 968 A.D.
The final temple shrine hall that visitors can explore at Gwanchoksa Temple stands out in front of both the Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple and the Stone Lantern of Gwanchoksa Temple. This is the Mireuk-jeon Hall. As the name kind of hints at, it’s dedicated to Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). Rather interestingly, there are several paintings surrounding the exterior walls to this hall that are dedicated to the founding of Gwanchoksa Tempe. Stepping inside the Mireuk-jeon Hall, you’ll notice that there’s no statues on the main altar, which is reminiscent of the Daeung-jeon Hall at Tongdosa Temple. Instead, what you’ll find is a golden ring painted directly onto a window that looks out onto both the historic statue and stone lantern. To the side of this main altar window is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) and an altar for the controversial Park Chung-hee (1917-1979) and his wife, Yuk Young-soo (1925-1974).
After seeing everything in and around the temple grounds, you can then pass through the historic Haetalmun Gate. This gate is believed to have first been constructed during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910).
How To Get There
From the Nonsan Intercity Bus Terminal, you can simply take a taxi to get to Gwanchoksa Temple. The ride will take about seven minutes, and it’ll cost you between four to five thousand won (one way).
Overall Rating: 8.5/10
Without a doubt, the Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple, or the Eunjin Mireuk Statue, is the main highlight to Gwanchoksa Temple. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more impressive statue of Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) in all of Korea. It’s both beautiful and otherworldly in the same breath. In addition to this amazing, historic statue is the Stone Lantern of Gwanchoksa Temple, the murals around the Mireuk-jeon Hall and the two-story Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall.
A look through the Iljumun Gate at the entry of Gwanchoksa Temple.
One of the Four Heavenly Kings inside the Cheonwangmun Gate.
Making your way up to the main temple courtyard at Gwanchoksa Temple.
A look up at the Banya-ru Pavilion.
The two-story Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall.
The main altar inside the Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall.
A look inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall at Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).
The swirling stairs leading up to the Samseong-gak Hall.
And the view from the Samseong-gak Hall.
The Mireuk-jeon Hall with the Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple in the background.
One of the murals adorning the Mireuk-jeon Hall depicting the creation of the Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple.
A look through the window inside the Mireuk-jeon Hall out towards the Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple.
Both the Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple and the Stone Lantern of Gwanchoksa Temple together.
A closer look at the face of the historic Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple.
One more look at the amazing Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple.
The 36 Metre Tall Bronze Statue of Amita-bul at Nammireuksa Temple in Gangjin, Jeollanam-do.
Temple History
Located in Gangjin, Jeollanam-do, and surrounded by farms, the name Nammireuksa Temple means “South Future Buddha Temple” in English. First founded in 1980 by the monk Seok Heung, the temple doesn’t belong to any of the three prominent Buddhist Orders in Korea; namely, Jogye, Cheontae, or Taego. Instead, it belongs to the Saegye Buddhist Order. This order is so small, in fact, that it isn’t even officially recognized by the Korean government. The sect seems to have been established in the late 20th century as a breakaway from the predominant Jogye-jong Order.
Temple Layout
The temple grounds are broken up into three main temple courtyards that are, rather uniquely, interspersed among some of the local private dwellings. In total, there is a southern, eastern, and northern temple courtyard at Nammireuksa Temple. The first of the three, as you approach from the temple parking lot, is the eastern courtyard. This is also the temple courtyard that houses the main hall on the sprawling temple grounds.
Eastern Courtyard
Leading up the trail that guides you towards the eastern temple courtyard, you’ll notice stone statues of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) lining the trail intermingled with the shrubbery and the trees. Emerging on the other side of the trail, and now entering the eastern courtyard, you’ll notice the Daeung-jeon Hall straight ahead of you. The exterior walls to this hall are adorned with the Shimu-do (The Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll notice a golden triad of statues resting in the centre of the main altar. In the centre of this triad rests Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). To the right of the main altar, and hanging on the far right wall is a golden relief of a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). And between this relief and the main altar, and still to the right, is a large picture of the founding monk at Nammireuksa Temple. And to the left of the main altar is an Indian-inspired multi-armed and headed Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) statue. And to the left of this statue are a collection of statuettes dedicated to various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas including four jade statues and a pensive Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) statue. The entire interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall is lined with Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals).
Out in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall in the eastern courtyard are a pair of stone pagodas. The first, and the one closest to the Daeung-jeon Hall, is a simple three-story pagoda with a large finial. Slightly to the right, and a little further out, is the thirteen-story pagoda. The base of this pagoda has four Buddhas surrounding it; and rather beautifully, the roof to each story of the pagoda is carved like a traditional temple roof tile. To the left of these stone pagodas is the two-in-one Jong-ru Pavilion/Cheongwangmun Gate. The first story of this structure acts as the Cheonwangmun Gate dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings, while the second story of this structure houses the four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments. And to the right of the stone pagodas in the eastern temple courtyard is a wall of thirty-three Gwanseeum-bosal statues inside a Plexiglas enclosure. Joining these statues are two larger statues dedicated to Mireuk-bul and Gwanseeum-bosal. Also hidden in the local shrubbery are sixteen colourful statues of the Nahan. Some are a bit scary.
Behind the Daeung-jeon Hall is the wonderfully ornate Yongwang-dang Hall. To gain entry to the Yongwang-dang Hall at Nammireuksa Temple, you’ll need to pass under the stone dragon gate that’s crowned with a stone image of Seokgamoni-bul. Then, you’ll need to walk across a stone bridge that’s adorned with stone reliefs of lotus flowers that spans a Koi pond. Finally on the other side, and entering the Yongwang-dang Hall, you’ll find a beautiful mural dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). In this painting, Yongwang sits atop his throne upon the rolling sea as a pair of dragons twist and turn around the royal throne. The other amazing feature inside the Yongwang-dang Hall is a highly original mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). In this mural, it looks to have seven of the eight Sinseon (The Taoist Immortals) to the left with a solitary, stand-alone image of the Sanshin to the right. Sanshin appears to be sitting on top of the mother tiger, while its two cubs are sitting with the seven Taoist Immortals. The mother tiger has its arm outstretched to reach for her two cubs. Very intriguing.
To the rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and to the right of the Yongwang-dang Hall, is the subterranean Myeongbu-jeon Hall. This cave shrine hall has dimming lights that change colours, which is somewhat reminiscent of a night club’s lighting. On the main altar of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall rests a stone image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).
Up a neighbouring flight of stairs, you’ll find an uneven stone stairway lined with stone monk statues that leads up to the Sanshin-gak Hall. Out in front of the Sanshin-gak Hall is a pond with a stone image dedicated to a beautiful flowing stone statue of Gwanseeum-bosal. Stepping inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find a golden statue and relief of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) resting on the main altar. The central golden statue of Sanshin is accompanied by two more traditional statues of the shaman deity.
Northern Courtyard
Back at the temple parking lot, and now heading north towards the northern temple courtyard, you’ll probably already have seen the thirty-six metre tall seated bronze statue of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) protruding out from the other neighbouring structures. Use this amazing statue as a guide to lead you towards the northern courtyard. Entering into the northern courtyard, you’ll first be greeted by two large stone pagodas. The smaller one, rather amazingly, is the thirteen-story pagoda to the right. This pagoda is joined to the left by a very busy thirty-three-story stone pagoda. While the entire body of the thirteen-story pagoda has Buddhas adorning it, it’s only the base of the thirty-three metre tall pagoda that’s adorned with Buddhas.
To the right rear of these pagodas and a handful of statues that include Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag), you’ll find a stone entry guarded by a handful of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). Climb the first set of stairs and head to the right to see an outdoor shrine with a beautiful collection of Gwanseeum-bosal statues. Continuing up the second flight of narrow stairs, you’ll finally come face-to-face with the thirty-six metre tall bronze statue of Amita-bul, which, purportedly, is the largest of its kind in Asia. This massive bronze statue was first constructed in 2007. Serenely, it looks out towards the rolling mountains with another collection of stone statues dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal and her thirty-three incarnations.
It should come as little surprise then that fronting this massive bronze statue to the front left is the equally massive Gwaneum-jeon Hall at Nammireuksa Temple. The front doors to the Gwaneum-jeon Hall are beautifully adorned with floral latticework. Stepping inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, you’ll be overwhelmed by the beautiful Gwanseeum-bosal iconography inside this temple shrine hall. Resting on the main altar is a triad centred by Amita-bul and joined by Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul) and Gwanseeum-bosal. This triad is housed underneath a peculiar canopy. Filling out the rest of the interior of thirty-three beautiful and colourful reliefs dedicated to the thirty-three incarnations of Gwanseeum-bosal.
Southern Courtyard
Now heading towards the southern temple courtyard at Nammireuksa Temple, you’ll need to pass under the amazingly impressive Cheonbul-tap. This nine-story stone pagoda has an entry at the base that you’ll need to pass through to gain entry to the southern courtyard. On either side of the entry and exit of this pagoda are the Four Heavenly Kings. Next, and at the base of the body, are lotus reliefs. And the nine-story body of the pagoda is adorned with Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. It’s definitely one of the more unique pagodas you’ll find in Korea.
Now, having passed through the low-lying Cheonbul-tap, you’ll first encounter the Manbul-jeon Hall. Above the entry to this wonderfully fantastic shrine hall are twin stone pagodas that stand seven stories tall. The left pagoda is dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal. Each of the stories is adorned with a standing statue dedicate to the Bodhisattva of Compassion. And each of the body’s eight sides has an indent where you’ll find another image, this time, of a seated Gwanseeum-bosal. The pagoda to the right, on the other hand, is dedicated to Jijang-bosal. Like the pagoda dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal, you’ll find standing and seated images of the Bodhisattva of the Afterlife adorning every angle of the seven-story pagoda.
You’ll need to duck down to enter the low-lying entryway to the Manbul-jeon Hall. In the expansive corridor leading into the Manbul-jeon Hall, you’ll find grotesque images of those souls suffering in the afterlife. Stepping inside the Manbul-jeon Hall, you’ll instantly realize why this temple shrine hall is called the Manbul-jeon Hall. Joining the ten metre tall statue of Amita-bul, who holds a tiny Gwanseeum-bosal statue in his left hand and an equally smaller sized statue of Jijang-bosal in his right, are ten thousand statuettes dedicated to Jijang-bosal. The ceiling to this shrine hall are painted with large murals dedicated to the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). There is also a corridor that lines the Manbul-jeon Hall. This wooden corridor is situated underneath the stands that hold the thousands of tiny Jijang-bosal statues. This wooden corridor is lined with prayer wheels and a statue dedicated to Podae-hwasang. You’ll also find murals dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal lining these wooden corridors, as well.
The final area that visitors can explore at Nammireuksa Temple is the artificial pond out in front of the Manbul-jeon Hall. There are a few trails through the trees that connect the Manbul-jeon Hall to the artificial pond. To the far right, and tucked away in the corner of the pond, is a splendid oval-shaped outdoor stone shrine dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). If you’re really lucky, you’ll be able to see the head monk at Nammireuksa Temple float across the pond on a large, manufactured lily pad.
How To Get There
There are a few buses that head towards Nammireuksa Temple. These buses are Bus #13, #13-6, and Bus #13-7. However, it should be noted that one or more of the rural bus stops might be closed along the way. So from the Gangjin Bus Yeogaek Terminal, you’ll need to board one of these three buses. If you take Bus #31, it’ll take thirty-one stops from the terminal. If you take Bus #13-7, it’ll take seventeen stop. And if you take Bus #13-6, it’ll take twenty stops. For all three of these buses, you’ll need to get off at the Pung-dong bus stop. From this stop you’ll need to walk five minutes, or four hundred metres, to get to Nammireuksa Temple. Just follow the signs as you go.
The easiest way, however, to get to Nammireuksa Temple from Gangjin, is to simply take a taxi. The ride will cost you 17,000 won (one way), and travel 12.7 km.
Overall Rating: 8.5/10
There is just so much to see and explore around the expansive temple grounds at Nammireuksa Temple. In the eastern courtyard, it’s definitely the Yongwang-dang Hall and the subterranean Myeongbu-jeon Hall that you’ll need to keep an eye out for, especially the murals dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King) and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), as well as the artwork housed in and around the Daeung-jeon Hall. As for the northern courtyard, the highlights are definitely the thirty-six metre tall bronze Amita-bul statue and its accompanying Gwaneum-jeon Hall and the courtyard pagodas. As for the southern courtyard, the main highlights are the Cheonbul-tap pagoda, the artwork in and around the Manbul-jeon Hall, and the artificial pond with the oval outdoor shrine dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). If you already couldn’t tell, this temple will take you some time to enjoy and explore. But it’s most definitely worth it, even though its location is a little out of the way.
The Jong-ru Pavilion/Cheongwangmun Gate in the eastern courtyard at Nammireuksa Temple.
The pair of pagodas in the eastern courtyard.
A look inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The bridge that spans the Koi pond as you head into the Yongwang-dang Hall.
The Yongwang mural inside the Yongwang-dang Hall.
And it’s joined by this beautiful Sanshin mural inside the Yongwang-dang Hall.
The colourful subterranean Myeongbu-jeon Hall at Nammireuksa Temple.
The golden main altar inside the Sanshin-gak Hall.
The two tall pagodas inside the northern courtyard at Nammireuksa Temple.
The beautiful 36 metre tall bronze statue of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This statue is fronted by the thirty-three incarnations of Gwanseeum-bosal.
The view that Amita-bul gets to enjoy of the neighbouring Gwaneum-jeon Hall.
A look inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall.
A look around the interior of the Gwaneum-jeon Hall at some of the colourful thirty-three incarnations of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion).
The Cheonbul-tap pagoda at the entry of the southern courtyard at Nammireuksa Temple.
The amazing entry to the Manbul-jeon Hall with the twin pagodas at its entry.
A look inside the Manbul-jeon Hall at the ten metre tall statue of Amita-bul, which is then backed by the ceiling murals of Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld).
The artificial pond in the southern courtyard.
And the unique outdoor shrine dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars).
This past Sunday I taught a live Korean class all about the grammar form (으)려면, which is a shortened version of the grammar (으)려고 하면.
(으)려면 is used to mean "If you want to." However, it's different than just using ~고 싶으면 or ~고 싶다면, which literally also mean "If you want to." We discuss how it's different in this live stream.
Also in addition to (으)려면, you might see (을/ㄹ)려면 and (을/ㄹ)라면, which are alternate versions of this grammar form - although they're both incorrect grammar.
Want to get out of the big Korean cities and see more cultural, historic, and natural sights that will entertain and educate? Then you should check out all the interesting things to do in Buyeo, a UNESCO World Heritage City located in western Korea.
Buyeo was the capital city of the Baekje Kingdom, which ended when invaded by the Silla Kingdom in the 7th Century. Like Gyeongju, the capital of the Silla Kingdom, there are ancient temples, fortresses, shrines, and other monuments to explore.
There are more things to do in Buyeo than just check out the history, though. It’s a great city for nature lovers, with beautiful ponds full of lotus flowers, sleepy rivers to cruise down, fortress forests to trek through, and a range of lovely parks to visit.
This guide to the top 10 things to do in Buyeo will help you plan a day trip (or weekend) to this historic city and show you all the reasons why Buyeo should be on your travel itinerary for an alternative Korean adventure.
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Top 10 Things To Do In Buyeo City In A Day
One of the things I liked about Buyeo, aside from the incredible history and culture, is the fact that so many of these things to do in Buyeo were so close together.
These top 10 things to do in Buyeo City are referred to as the ‘Downtown Course‘ as they’re all within walking distance of the city centre and bus terminal.
I’ve structured this list so that you can use it as a guidedwalking tour – you can walk from 1 – 10 in that order within a day.
Gungnamji Pond is top of the list as it’s one of my favourite things to do in Buyeo and I’d highly recommend visiting it, especially if you’re travelling in summer or autumn.
After the top 10 there is a really useful guide to Buyeo and more about the city.
Gungnamji Pond is the oldest man-made pond in Korea and one of the most popular places to visit in the city, especially during summer when the lotus flowers are in full bloom.
In the middle of the shimmering waters is the picturesque Poryonjeong Pavilion, accessible by a single narrow bridge in traditional Korean style.
As you walk to the pavilion, glance over the side and you’ll see dozens of goldfish swimming between the arches and willow trees waving to you with drooping branches.
The central pond is surrounded by smaller ponds full of beautiful lotus flowers, friendly ducks, and stunning picture spots that draw in photographers from across Korea.
As you leave Gungnamji Pond, head east and you’ll soon find the interesting Buyeo National Museum, which houses artefacts from the Sabi period – the height of Baekje Kingdom.
There’s over 32,000 relics to see, including 3 national treasures. The museum has 4 main sections that cover different periods and types of artefacts.
Outside the museum there’s a number of interesting statues and monuments to check out, as well as pretty trees and flowers.
This ancient temple site was built when King Seong moved the capital of Baekje from Gongju to Buyeo. To celebrate the new capital, he built this temple in the centre of the Sabi royal palace.
Unfortunately, the palace no longer remains, but you can still look inside the temple and see a large stone Buddha statue from the Goryeo period. You can also see the 5-story pagoda standing proudly outside the temple.
Built in the 6th Century, it’s amazing that these monuments are still standing and you can witness a real piece of ancient Korean history right here.
Once you’ve looked inside the temple, follow the path to the Jeongnimsa Temple Museum, a small museum with interactive displays and more insights into the history of the temple and surrounding area.
Once an imperious fortress spread across the slopes of Mt Buyo, the remains of the Busosanseong Fortress now provide spectacular sights of the city and surrounding countryside.
A number of top things to do in Buyeo are actually inside the fortress grounds, including the Samchungsa Shrine, Yeongillu Pavilion, Nakhwaam Pavilion, and Goransa Temple.
As you explore the leafy walkways, tracing the footsteps of long-dead soldiers on guard duty, you’ll witness old stone fortifications, wooden pagodas, peaceful burial mounds, and a lot of the history and culture of ancient Baekje.
There are plenty of trails to explore in this circular fortress area. I’d recommend starting at the south entrance near the Sabi Virtual Experience Hall and heading in an anti-clockwise direction around the fortress, ending up at the Goransan Temple and ferry terminal.
There are several nice cafes outside the entrance with views over the fortress. A good place for lunch or a quick break before heading into the hills.
Time required: 2-3 hours
Entrance Fee: 1,800 KRW
5: Samchungsa Shrine
After passing through the beautiful tree-lined pathways of the fortress for a while, you will come across the Samchungsa Shrine.
This shrine, built in 1957, is dedicated to the memory of three overly-loyal officials from the 7th Century Baekje period – Seong Chung, Heung Su, and Gye Baek.
They each have their own tragic story connected to Baekje’s final days, including General Gye Baek who, with an army of only 5,000, tried to hold out against 50,000 troops from the Silla Kingdom.
Check out the shrine and pay your respects to these brave souls. And make sure to take in all the intricate details and colours in this beautifully decorated shrine.
6: Yeongillu Pavilion
Nestled amongst the trees, but with an open view of Buyeo and the snaking river that curves around the fortress, this is one of the best spots for landscape lovers visiting Buyeo.
The Yeongillu Pavilion, raised above the ground on tall stilts, is a peaceful rest point where you can watch the afternoon sun, soak up the view, and catch your breath.
Definitely get out your camera here for shots of wide vistas and closes ups of the intricate decorations typical of Korean traditional architecture.
Make sure to take off your shoes as you enter the pavilion so that everyone can enjoy the clean floor. Look up when you’re inside and see if you can spot the twin dragons that eternally stare at each other on the ceiling.
For views of the opposite side of the fortress, be sure to visit Sajalu Pavilion before visiting Nakhwaam Rock.
7: Nakhwaam Rock
After exploring the rest of the fortress, one of the last spots to see is the tragic, yet inspiring, Nakhwaam Rock.
Also known as ‘The Cliff of Falling Flowers‘, this rocky precipice is infamous due to the ‘three thousand court ladies’, who were said to have jumped from here after the fortress was invaded, crashing into the wide Geumgang River below.
Make your way to the top of the rocks (it’s not far), and spend a moment contemplating their sad fate in the pretty pagoda that now stands atop the rocks in honour of the fallen court ladies and their tragic end.
If you look out to the waters below, you might be able to spot one of the ferries that runs from Goransa Temple back towards the Gudeurae Sculpture Park. Be sure to give a wave to the people on the boat before heading down to the temple to grab the boat.
8: Goransa Temple
A short walk down the stone steps from Nakhwaam Rock is the hidden Goransa Temple, tucked away between the Geumgang River below and rocky slopes above.
After walking through the fortress you’ll probably want a drink of some cool, fresh water. Well, good news, Goransan Temple has a well (Goranjeong) of mineral water and ladles for you to take a sip to quench your thirst.
Even better news – drinking from this temple water will also make you three years younger! Or so the stories say. There’s no reason not to try it out and hope for the best.
Next to the temple is the Baegmagang River Cruise Ferry Terminal. I’d recommend visiting the ferry terminal first to book some tickets for the ride off the fortress before exploring Goransa Temple – it’ll save you rushing later on.
9: Baegmagang River Cruise (Goransa Ferry)
The Baegmagang River, literally ‘the largest river in the Baekje Kingdom’, is a wide, slow river that flows around the fortress and connects several of the things to do in Buyeo.
The ferries that depart from here aren’t your normal ferries, but are designed to look like traditional Korean boats from the Baekje period, complete with tall sails and sloping rooftops. It looks like a floating temple!
Book a ride to the Gudeurae Dock and enjoy the 15 minute cruise along the river, checking out the sights of Baekje Culture Land on the opposite shore, and the mountains and nature that surround Buyeo.
Ticket price: Goransa Temple to Gudeurae Dock
Adults: 5,000 KRW (return 7,000 KRW)
Children: 2,500 KRW (return (3,500 KRW)
10: Gudeurae Sculpture Park
The Gudeurae Sculpture Park is a family-friendly place and a popular space for locals to relax and enjoy the views of Busosanseong Fortress and the Geumgang River, as well as the creative sculptures and artworks on display.
Take your time to explore the various sights on display here, both in the park and along the shore of the river, which is lined with thousands of sunflowers in summer.
A great spot for some interesting photos, or just to grab a drink and chill on the grass, watching the sun set over the mountains in the west.
If you follow the road leading away from the dock, you’ll end up heading towards the fortress entrance, which hosts several great restaurants where you can sample local delicacies and traditional Korean dishes.
Keep reading for more info about things to do in Buyeo, where to eat, what to try, and what else there is to see in this history-packed UNESCO World Heritage City.
More Things To Do In Buyeo
There are so many things to do in Buyeo, both in the city itself and in the surrounding area. As this was such an important city in the former Baekje Kingdom, there are plenty of historic sights to visit, including temples, fortresses, and other important locations.
Not only is there Korean history to absorb, there’s also a load of beautiful nature spots to visit, including mountains, riverside walks, farms, and eco-friendly attractions.
I’ve provided links to each of these other things to do in Buyeo below:
These 10 things to do in Buyeo are just the beginning of what this historic former capital has to offer tourists. The rest of this guide will tell you more about the city, how to get there, where to stay, what to try, and cultural festivals and activities in Buyeo.
Why Visit Buyeo?
Buyeo is a charming city packed full of history and home to many cultural and historic artefacts from Korea’s past. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage City, history lovers will really appreciate visiting Buyeo.
The city has a beautiful harmony between nature and humans, with both having lived side by side for centuries, with temples and palaces built in and around the mountains, rivers, and fields.
If you want to get the most of Buyeo, I’d recommend staying for a weekend so that you can explore some of the sights that are outside of the city centre, such as Baekje Culture Land, the Royal Tombs, and Seongheungsan Mountain.
How To Get To Buyeo
Buyeo isn’t connected to the high-speed Korean train network (KTX), so the best way to get to Buyeo is by car or bus. Taking the train is possible with connections.
Train from Seoul: If you want to take the train from Seoul, depart from Yongsan Station and head towards Nonsan, then change to a local bus to Buyeo.
Bus from Seoul: The bus from Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal takes 2 hours and 10 minutes and costs around 17,000 KRW for a one-way ticket.
Bus from Daejeon: Travellers from Daejeon can get to Buyeo from the Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal. The journey is about 90 minutes and costs around 8,000 KRW.
The picture below shows the various ways to get to Buyeo from around Korea.
The best time to visit Buyeo for people who want to see the wonder of Korean nature and the countryside in full bloom is any time from early April until late October.
The start of spring will offer beautiful cherry blossom views, whilst the end of October offers incredible autumn leaves that spread across sites like the Busosanseong Fortress.
To get the best views of the Gungnamji Pond and the thousands of lotus flowers there, you should visit in July – this is when the Seodong Lotus Flower Festival is held. You can also see lotus flowers and sunflowers throughout August and into early September.
As many of the things to do in Buyeo, such as the historical sights and museums, are open year-round, there’s never a bad time to visit Buyeo.
Where To Eat In Buyeo
Eating traditional Korean dishes was one of my favourite things to do in Buyeo. There’s a range of dining options from cafes overlooking the lotus ponds, to traditional Korean restaurants with a smorgasbord of interesting side dishes.
Here are a few places you might want to try dining in when visiting Buyeo:
This charming cafe is at the entrance to Seodong Park and overlooks the tall lotus leaves and flowers. A great place to charge up before exploring for the day. Head directly south from Buyeo Bus Terminal to get here.
For those who want to mix and match tastes, this restaurant offers the chance to select many side dishes, along with rice in a hot stone pot and braised pork, and wrap them all in a lettuce leaf. Fun and delicious dining. Located near the entrance to the fortress.
Try some delicious hanu (한우) – Korean beef – made into small patties and served with a side dishes, including rice wrapped in a lotus leaf, ginseng, pancakes, lotus flower, and more. Located right next to Gudeurae Sculpture Park.
If you’re a fan of mushrooms, then visit this quaint old restaurant that serves a dish of bulgogi and mushrooms with a wide range of side dishes. Located near the entrance to the fortress.
Where To Stay In Buyeo
Accommodation options in Buyeo are limited and if you’re planning to visit during festival times (July, September), then definitely book in advance.
Here’s a couple of places that I think look nice and should give you a good night’s rest.
Buyeo Baekma River Leisure Park
A bit different from your normal hotel or motel, this is a lovely looking site on the shores of the Geumgang River that provides modern caravans for your to sleep in
Wake up to the sunrise from the other side of the river and views of Busosanseong Fortress. This is located close to Baekje Cultural Land and the Lotte Outlets and a good place to start a second day exploring Buyeo.
Lotte Hotels are some of the best in Korea, and this stunning looking hotel is sure to please those looking for a bit of luxury as they travel.
Located next to the Lotte Outlets, this hotel is a destination in itself.
Check out the Aqua Garden, an on-site spa to pamper weary travellers after a day of exploring, the wide range of restaurants, and the impressive mountain views from the private balcony in each room.
There are two major festivals in Buyeo to enjoy the city’s rich history, nature, and culture.
Seodong Lotus Flower Festival
The Seodong Lotus Flower Festival is held in mid-July, when thousands of lotus flowers and lilies of more than 50 different types bloom in the ponds around Gungnamji Pond.
Photographers from across Korea visit during the summer to witness the lotus flowers in full bloom. The park is large, so there’s space for everyone to get some great shots.
Celebrating the history and culture of the former Baekje Kingdom, this long-held festival spreads across the city and lasts for several weeks in late September / early October.
This festival happens across two cities, and you can also see events in Gongju, the former capital of the Baekje Kingdom before Buyeo took over.
This festival is packed with lanterns spread across the river, cultural processions and events, tea ceremonies, lantern making and releasing, and even some K-pop performances.
After all, Hallyu (the Korean wave) originated from the Baekje Kingdom and the 65th Baekje festival was closed by the king of K-pop, PSY (Gangnam Style).
There are many cultural activities you can enjoy throughout the year, including learning about and making traditional pottery, wearing traditional clothes, stone inscription rubbing, making totem poles, and more.
Here are a few sites that will tell you more about cultural activities you can do in Buyeo:
At the time of writing, a lot of tours aren’t running due to the ongoing pandemic. However, these tours will hopefully be available again once tourism opens and more people are available to enjoy visiting Buyeo.
If you want some more inspiration for places to see and things to do in Korea, be sure to check out my top 50 Korean experiences for your South Korea bucket list.
If you enjoyed reading this article, or if you have any thoughts about it that you want to share, please feel free to leave a message in the comments below. I’d love to hear your feedback about this article and the subject.
If you want some recommendations about things to do in Buyeo or other places, then you can also ask in the Korea Travel Advice group on Facebook.
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