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Red Links, 6-25-10

Our Own StupidityA little late this week, I know. I apologize. I was enjoying a day with the wife.

I’m glad someone is finally pointing a finger at China’s  proliferation crimes – and Pyongyang’s are just a shadow in comparison -  as well as lauding its currency reform. Coming in for praise, too,  is the Conservative-Lib Dem government in London showing how to start budgeting. But, it was a toss-up which leader to put first, the nukes or the debt. Finally, only the misguided military idolaters in the Korean blogosphere would find General McCrystal’s firing surprising or dismaying.

  • Clouds of Hypocrisy

  • This newspaper argued against the America-India nuclear deal, not least because it would intensify nuclear rivalry in an already fissile region. A second wrong—shrugging the China-Pakistan one through, on the basis of some sort of big-power tit-for-tat—will only double the damage.

    Before China joined the NPT and the NSG its proliferation record was execrable. It helped Pakistan make uranium and plutonium. It handed over the design of one of its own nuclear warheads, which Pakistan later passed on to Libya and possibly Iran. China hates talk of its irresponsible past. It will resent being told it is breaking NSG rules. But the other 45 countries in the group should find the courage of their anti-proliferation convictions and call China to account. Like others in this sorry saga, China richly deserves embarrassment.

  • Is There Life after Debt?

  • For a long time debt in the rich world has grown faster than incomes. As our special report this week spells out, it is not just government deficits that have swelled. In America private-sector debt alone rose from around 50% of GDP in 1950 to nearly 300% at its recent peak. The origins of the boom go even further back, reflecting huge changes in social attitudes. In the 19th century defaulting borrowers were sent to prison. The generation that lived through the Great Depression learned to scrimp and save. But the wider take-up of credit cards in the 1960s created a “buy now, pay later” society. Default became just a lifestyle choice. The reckless lender, rather than the imprudent debtor, was likely to get the blame.

    As consumers leveraged up, so did companies. The average bond rating fell from A in 1981 to BBB- today, just one notch above junk status. Firms that held cash on their balance-sheets were criticised for their timidity, while bankruptcy laws, such as America’s Chapter 11, prevented creditors from foreclosing on companies. That forgiving regime encouraged entrepreneurs (in Silicon Valley a bankruptcy is like a duelling scar in a Prussian officers’ mess) but also allowed too many zombie companies to survive (look at the airlines). And no industry was more addicted to leverage than finance. Banks ran balance-sheets with ever lower levels of equity capital; private equity and hedge funds, which use debt aggressively, churned out billionaires. The road to riches was simple: buy an asset with borrowed money, then sit back and watch its price rise.

    All this was encouraged by the authorities. Any time a debt crisis threatened the economy, central banks slashed interest rates. The prospect of such rescues reduced the risk of taking on more debt. Bubbles were created, first in equities, then in housing. It was a monetary ratchet, in which each cycle ended with much higher debt and much lower interest rates. The end-game was reached in 2007-08 when investors realised a lot of this debt would not be repaid. As the credit crunch tightened, central banks had to cut short-term rates to 1% or below.

  • The Long March

  • Reforms to tackle the root causes of excess saving in China are therefore needed as part of a lasting solution to global imbalances. That means more liberalisation to make it easier for small firms in labour-intensive services to challenge cosseted state-backed firms; it means better corporate governance to help unlock the cash hoarded by state-owned enterprises and spread it around the economy; and it requires a wider social-security net to persuade Chinese householders that they need not insure themselves against every catastrophe. A stronger currency is a handmaiden to these changes. But it cannot do all the work of transforming China’s economy.

  • Going for Broke

  • No one can deny that George Osborne has bottle. The emergency budget presented on June 22nd by Britain’s new Conservative chancellor of the exchequer aims to deliver a whopping fiscal retrenchment equal to 6.3% of GDP by 2014-15. Three-quarters of the adjustment will come from spending cuts, including cuts in welfare. The rest will come from tax hikes, both those planned by Labour and new ones, including notably a rise in the consumption-tax (VAT) rate. Government spending will fall from over 47% of GDP in 2009-10 to under 41%, and borrowing from 11% of GDP to 2%.

    This is tough stuff, and the markets took it as such. Sterling and gilt-edged government bonds strengthened a bit; the credit-rating agencies expressed renewed confidence. The message—that, at a time of worldwide jitters over sovereign debt, Britain is determined not to be classed with the likes of Greece—is welcome. So is the balance of spending cuts and tax rises, and the reduction in the corporate-tax rate.

  • After McChrystal

  • Mr Obama once described the fighting in Afghanistan as “a war of necessity”. The president must now put necessity aside and pose two fundamental questions. Can the American-led coalition still win in Afghanistan? And if so, how?

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Filed under: Subscriptions Tagged: the economist

71: Into the Fire

 Into the FireI spoke too soon about not enough concern for the anniversary of the Korean War. A drama about the war is playing on the TV, and earlier my wife and I watched the ninth installment of a documentary on the same. And today, we saw 71 Into the Fire (포화 속으로). I can’t vouch for this film’s historical accuracy. But, South Korean directors continue to display an amazing ability to portray both bathos and pathos in war films. Plenty of young girls flocked to the theater to see T.O.P., and they all seemed to be sitting behind me. And then, there was this adorable little toddler brandishing a diminutive pink umbrella like a sword running up and down the aisle beside me. Yet, I also liked the film, what I would call a B+ film – entertaining but not brilliant.

I do not like this fad for hyper-realism. I don’t like to see every drop of spittle and vomit, how syrupy the imitation blood is, or every freckle. And, South Korean directors continue to blunder with foreign actors. Slow motion should only be used once in a film. But, the bad guys had personalities, and the good guys had their faults. I was invested emotionally in the film from beginning to end. I would buy the DVD, and research the events.

Yet, I am troubled by that cringe-worthy performance by an American general. When a South Korean officer asks for assistance, the general gives the man some rocket launchers. Has America given just a little more than a technological fix to the South Koreans? The film also accurately portrays the reflexive ideologies of both sides – the North Korean officer sneering at the Taegukgi, the use of “reds” as a sobriquet for North Koreans. Soldiers in the ranks of both armies are delightfully buffoonish. I especially liked the sweet potato and grenade combination that fooled a North Korean to grab the morsel without noticing the explosive before it was too late.

The 71 students who defended their school against a North Korean infantry unit embody both the tragedy of a cynical leadership struggle between petty Korean politicians on both ends of the peninsula and some of the most noble qualities of manhood. The student leader struggles with the duty to command and his aversion to kill. A thug befriends students he once despised. A commander tries desperately to rescue the boys he has to leave for slaughter. And, even the hubristic bad guy in the annoying white uniform is brave.

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Filed under: History, Korea, Movies/Media Tagged: 71: into the fire, korean war, t.o.p.

Kim Gu, Korea’s Champion

Kim GuToday is the 61st anniversary of the assassination of Kim Gu, the three-term president of the Provisional Government of Korea. Kim’s life exemplifies the violent world of Northeast Asian politics in the early twentieth century. The victim of an assassin, Kim was himself an assassin.


On October 8, 1895, Empress Myeongseong (명성황후), the wife of Emperor Gojong (고종) of the Korean Empire was assassinated by a group of Japanese assassins (the Eulmi Incident; 을미사변; 乙未事變). Miura Goro, then Japan’s Resident Minister in Korea, was suspected as the mastermind of the assassination. In February 1896, Kim stayed at an inn in Chihapo, Hwanghae Province while traveling to southern regions. There he found a Japanese man named Tsuchida Josuke (土田譲亮), who was disguised as a Korean and concealing a Japanese sword, and killed him believing that he was involved in the assassination of the queen. In his biography ‘Baekbeom Ilji’ (白凡逸志), Kim describes his motivation at the time as follows.

Since many Japaneses go through Chihapo every day, there is no reason for him to disguise as a Korean if he were an ordinary merchant or workman. Could he be Miura or one of his accomplices who killed the queen, fled from Seoul and hiding here? Even if he is not, a Japanese man with a disguise and a sword can do nothing but harm to my country and people. I will revenge for my queen by killing this Japanese man.

– Baekbeom Ilji

The following morning, Kim attacked Tsuchida, took his sword, and killed him with it. The “Report from acting administrator Hagihara Moriichi of Incheon Consulate on the current situation of Incheon” describes Tsuchida as a “commoner from Nagasaki Prefecture” and an “employee of a Nagasaki trader on a business trip” [1]. However, this does not prove that Tsuchida was not involved in the assassination of the Empress Myeongseong, as this assassination was carried out not only by Japanese soldiers but also by many Japanese Ronins, as described in the report by Ezo Ishizuka (石塚英藏), the Japanese adviser to the Korean Empire at the time[2]. In addition, Kim stated in ‘Baekbeom Ilji’ that Tsuchida was concealing a sword and had identification papers that showed him to be a Japanese army lieutenant[3]. Official Japanese interrogation police records from the time also verify the fact that Tsuchida was carrying a sword around.

After the killing, Kim left a hand-written document which said “Kim Changsoo from Haeju, Hwanghae Province, killed this Japanese man to revenge the murder of Korean Queen”, as documented in Baekbeom Ilji. He waited at his home at Haeju for three months before the police came and arrested him.

Successive Japanese administrations tortured him. Still, Kim persevered to lead Korean exiles, and founded the Korean Liberation Army. Only Lee Seung-man kept him from his rightful place as the first president of a liberated Republic of Korea in 1948. I admit I admire what I’ve read of this man, a far cry from the disgust I feel about Lee Seung-man. My wife and I were just talking about Kim before I wrote this, and when I read the Wikipedia article it rekindled an old interest in the man. I also admit this is hardly a well-researched post on the man – something I might remedy in the future. Many years ago, I wrote a novel about a Korean guerrilla fighting in Manchukuo against the Japanese. Perhaps, I was unwittingly writing a biography. Anyway, I like this quote:

…I want our nation to become the most beautiful nation in the world. I do not want our nation to become the richest and the most powerful nation in the world. Because I have felt the pain of being invaded by another nation, I do not want my nation to invade others. It is sufficient that our wealth is such that it makes our lives abundant and our military strength such that it is able to repel others’ invasion. The only thing that I desire in infinite quantity is the power of a highly-developed culture. This is because the power of culture both makes ourselves happy and gives happiness to others.

I am neither nationalistic nor pacifist, yet I can admire Kim Gu’s kind of patriotism.

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Filed under: History, Korea, Politics Tagged: kim changsoo, kim gu, lee seung man, rok, South Korea

Busan Kotesol Mini-conference

The weather cooperated well with our plans for a conference – it was miserable and raining all day.  One might as well go to a conference as stare at the rain.

mini kotesol01 mini kotesol02 mini kotesol03 mini kotesol04 mini kotesol05 mini kotesol06 mini kotesol07 mini kotesol08 mini kotesol09 mini kotesol10 mini kotesol11 mini kotesol12

Here are some pics I took.  Click to embiggen.

Starting at the top left: two representatives manned the ATEK desk in the hallway.  I think Greg is being interviewed by EFM Busan English radio.  The Oxford representative and his books.  EFM (again, maybe) interviews two volunteers – from Japan and studying at Dongseo University. A representative from Cambridge publishing.

Second row: Costco kept everyone fed.  We placed them in a poor location but they gave us a great supply of food. David from Ten Magazine showing gift cups come with a subscription.  Peadar prepares his lecture on comics in the classroom.  Jeff LeBow interviews Greg from ATEK.

Bottom row: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL President dramatically demands the jury issue a not-guilty verdict.  I guess ‘Foxy’ leaves the computer on sometimes.  Lyndon and a volunteer clean up.  After the conference, Lyndon went to his evening job and waited tables at Pasta Vanita.

I may post commentary about the conference later.  I was involved in registration, so I only saw one presentation.  I wasn’t thrilled with it, to be honest, but it was on a subject that I have worked on for several years myself, so I probably wasn’t the target audience.

Added Later: The presentation, on making student videos as a class project, was clear and well-thought out.  There were a few ideas that I will incorporate into my current student video diary program, a program I have run and refined over six or seven semesters.  However, the presenter’s class and facilities are quite different from my own.  It was a good presentation, but did not have a lot of meat in it for me.

——

We had hoped for sixty or more attendees and we had more than eighty so it was a clear success.  The next conference will be even better!

A few links

KOTESOL

ATEK

Ten Magazine


Korean Sociological Image #41: Mothers of Warriors

( Source )

A quick question: who would you choose to sell hormone-treatment and anti-depression medication to middle-aged women?

Barring Bae Young-joon (배용준) above, notoriously popular among them, then I’d wager that middle-aged women themselves were your most likely answer. And your least likely? Probably men in their early-20s, which begs the question of why they’re the only ones actually speaking in the following commercial from Dongkook Pharmaceutical (see below for a translation):

Of course, the reason the young men are featured at all is because Korea has universal male conscription, which makes parting scenes like those featured above a normal part of the Korean life-cycle. So while the leaving ceremony itself may be unfamiliar to most Western observers, a company encouraging consumers to associate its product with it is really no different from a bank using imagery of, say, children’s university graduation ceremonies to sell retirement savings plans.

Still, that’s not to say that it’s just any old commercial. For in relying on an emotional event for Korean mothers and sons to sell its products, but quite literally denying only the mothers a voice in that, Dongkook Pharmaceutical has ironically provided an apt illustration of Korean women’s expected role in any public debates about military conscription. Which is in short, to be seen and not heard, their opinions taken for granted by others.

For instance, in 1997 the Korean media revealed that the sons of Lee Hoi-chang (이회창), the then presidential candidate of the then ruling Shinhangukdang (New Korean Party; 신한국당), had been exempted from their military service due to medical grounds; popularly believed to have used his wealth and influence to secure this, the backlash against Lee for failing to fulfill his paternal and nationalist responsibilities was so intense that his political career was soon over. And yet according to Insook Kown in A Feminist Exploration of Military Conscription: The Gendering of the Connections Between Nationalism, Militarism and Citizenship in South Korea (2001), even in the midst of all that:

…women were voiceless. Those who accused Lee, answered the accusations, reported the matter, and contributed articles were all men. In public, the conscription scandal seemed a matter for men only. Sometimes, mothers were used by men as a reference symbolizing a certain group of women only concerned about the welfare of their sons. Many male editorial writers represented the angry emotions of mothers to show South Korean popular opinion. One editorial writer in the JoongAng Daily (22/08/97) described the anger of many mothers of sons. According to him, these mothers wrote a slogan on the calender for Election Day: “Let’s never forget the exemptions of Lee’s sons”.  (p. 43)

( Source: anja_johnson )

And later another editorial writer in the same paper (27/08/97) illustrated the emotional background of the issue by using a motherly perspective:

People did not deal with the exemption by making accusations of immorality or illegal intervention in the exemption, but with emotional anger like, why did your sons not have to go into the army, while my son is suffering in a life-or-death crisis. What made women angrier than anyone else, was caused by this kind emotion. (p. 43)

Kwon argues that the Korean state has always very much had a stake in accepting feminized forms of self-sacrifice in its name, whether as factory workers, prostitutes to the US military or Japanese tourists (a crucial source of foreign exchange in the 1960s and 1970s), or mothers of conscripts. Focusing on the latter here, consequently they have so far lacked:

…room to represent their own sacrifices in public. Mother’s concern and pain over their son’s conscription has remained hidden under the taken-for-granted necessity of military conscription for national security. Their voices have been deprived of a space for expression; and because their emotional attachment to their sons has been translated into a private matter, they have not mobilized as a group. (p. 37; tenses have been changed)

Not that this lack of representation means that mothers are necessarily opposed to conscription. For example, Cynthia Enloe, who has written extensively on the subject of “patriotic motherhood” narratives constructed by militarized states, argues that in fact they can have attractions for women whose mothering role has been evaluated as personal and private. Indeed, it can be a chance for them to completely revalue their maternal duty:

Some women feel deeply validated when some politician goes on the call for mothering to be defined as a vital contribution to the nation’s war effort, because warfare has been imagined by many to be the quintessentially public and national activity. (Maneuvers: The International Politics of Militarizing Women’s Lives, 2000, p. 11, quoted in Kwon p. 46)

Moreover, what are these “sacrifices” referred to exactly? Kwon’s analysis is a little weak on this point, as although she provides a comprehensive and convincing demonstration of how in fact all women suffer from the conscription system (a subject taken up in this series), there is little evidence that mothers specifically suffer beyond that aforementioned “concern and pain over their son’s conscription”. As the commercial demonstrates however, that may be rather more than a Western observer might expect.

At which point it is prudent to provide the translation of it(!). Below, the text featured on the screen is written as normal text below, while everything spoken by the conscripts or in the voiceover I’ve put in quotation marks. I’ve also provided the commercial again to make it easier to follow along:

엄마…..그동안 받기만 해왔습니다

Mother…..(I’ve) only ever received things (from you)

엄마…이제 처음으로 엄마품을 떠나네요

Mother….this is the first time I’ve left my mother’s (your?) bosom”

엄마…고맙습니다

Mother…thank you

듬직한 대한민국 군인이 돼서 엄마가 믿고 의지할 수 있는 아들이 되겠습니다

I will become a reliable, trustworthy Korean soldier whom you can trust and depend on

이제는 우리가 엄마를 도와드릴 차례입니다

Now it’s our (my?) turn to help our mothers

어머니 잘 다녀오겠습니다. 사랑합니다. 사랑해

Mother, I will do well before I return. I love you (formal). I love you (informal)

엄마, 사랑합니다. 충성!

Mother, I love you (formal). Loyalty! (Fealty?) (Devotion?) [James: whatever the exact meaning, it is said when saluting]

대한민국 갱년기 어머니들의 10명 중 8명은 다양한 갱년기 증상으로 힘들어하고 있습니다

Out of every 10 mothers of the Korean public who experience menopause, 8 suffer from various symptoms

(Above, left and right): 여성 갱년기 극복 갬폐인 & 동국제약

Female Menopause Conquest Campaign & Dongkook Pharmaceutical

엄마에게, 사랑의 마음을 전하세요. 훼라민큐가 함께 합니다

Tell your mother the love you feel in your heart. With HeraminQ.

이제, 엄마의 갱년기를 도와주세요. 훼라민Q.

Now, please help with mothers’ menopause. HeraminQ.

(In very fine print): 의사, 약사와 상의하십시오. 부작용이 있을 수 있습니다

Please consult with a doctor or pharmacist. Side effects are possible.

Update: Seamus Walsh has provided a slightly more accurate translation (with explanations) in the comments.

( For another post: the impact on sisters and girlfriends of conscription? Movie poster for The Longest 24 Hours, (기다리다미쳐, 2007), a lighthearted look at military service from the perspective of conscripts’ girlfriends; also known as Crazy4wait. Source )

While this may sound a little hypocritical at first, let me begin my discussion on the subject of the mothers’ feelings by highlighting those of the men; actually, that is the original reason I wanted to write this post, for let me stress that you were seeing men in their early-20s crying at the thought of leaving their mothers. What did that make you think of them?

Well, at risk of sounding insensitive, personally I found them to be pathetic. Not that I was all that mature at the same age of course, and in many senses my reaction may simply be because of cultural differences. Like Brian in Jeollanam-do once put it:

…everything in Korea tries to be cute, in the same way everything in the States is “Xtreme” and too cool for school. Korea uses a cartoon to advertise where the US would have a gravelly stoner voiceover, and Korean videos often feature cuteness exaggerated to a sickening degree where American videos would lots of brooding and feigned indifference.

And not unrelated is how different average Koreans’ and average Westerners’ life-cycles are at that age, although 30-somethings like myself should be wary of projecting their own experiences onto today’s 20-somethings. Nor do I want to make light of the hardships conscripts have to endure either.

( Source: anja_johnson )

But then I’m not:  in that commercial at least, thinking about those hardships is not why they’re crying. Moreover, to describe the crying as a simple cultural difference underplays the extent to which this practice is unique even within Korean culture itself, as beyond obvious cases such as funerals, my (Korean) wife for one could think of no other situations in which it is so socially acceptable for a man of that age to cry publicly. That they can and do then, is partially because a) the vast majority of Koreans don’t actually think of any male as a “man” until he has fulfilled his military service, and b) this uniquely strong bond between mothers and conscript-sons. Indeed, there is:

…a widely held popular belief that a father should encourage his son to go into the army, and to fulfill his national defense duty to achieve real citizenship. In this gendered construction, mothers represent emotional attachment such as compassion and pity toward their conscripted sons. In other words…the emotional part of the work of conscription….

…At the most emotional step of the conscription process, the father disappears. For instance, in two recent guidebooks published for pre-conscripts, the authors, both male, make almost no mention of fathers. The only ‘object’ for whom male soldiers are expected to feel concern about in the family is the mother. (p. 44)

And as you might expect, this is well-represented in popular culture, and in addition to commercials like the above I have frequently seen conscripts brought on to the stage after a girl-group has performed on an army base to wax lyrical about their performance and their attractiveness…only then to break down in tears and leave a very emotional message to their mothers watching back home (indeed, often they’re literally choking on their words so much that Om-ma “mother” is the only word you’re able to discern).

Unfortunately for readers however, this is yet another case of something interesting to outside observers that is unremarkable to Koreans themselves, and so I’ve spent over an hour unsuccessfully looking for examples to post here (videos of girl-group performances typically finish just before the soldiers are brought on stage). If any readers find any I would appreciate it if you could pass them on, but in the meantime let me finish by passing on what Kwon says about the program Ujeongdui Mudae (우정의 무대), or Stage for Friendship, the only program about conscripted soldiers in the 1990s, and which had:

…one famous section, ‘Yearning for Mother’. An unidentified  mother talked about her son from back stage. Following her talk, a lot of soldiers ran on the stage shouting “Mother” and insisted she was their mother. Finally, the mother appeared on stage and hugged her son. Finally, the mother appeared on stage and hugged her son. Accompanied with deeply moving music, both mother and son cried, as did other soldiers and everybody watching the TV show. (p. 44).

For your interest though, I did find this commercial with Moon Geun-young (문근영) featuring a mother visiting her son during his military service (and impressed with how much of a man he has become):

And for the record, Dongkook Pharmaceutical did produce more “normal” commercials for HeraminQ with middle-age women, here, here, and here, as well as another one in the “life-cycle” series featuring mothers’ high-school children taking their life-determining university-entrance exams:

Thoughts?

(For all posts in the Korean Sociological Images series, see here; for more on the effect of conscription on Korean society, see here and here)

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Filed under: Gender Roles, Gender Socialization, Korean Advertisements, Korean Democratization, Korean Families, Korean Feminism, Korean Media, Korean Sociological Images, Sexual Discrimination
  

 

Swimming with Shirts: Songjeong Revealed

With the Boryeong Mud Fest quickly approaching, I’m on the hunt for a bathing suit here in Busan.  I’ve spotted a couple shops that sell them in the Seomyeon underground mall, though a recent jaunt to Songjeong Beach revealed that the Korean girls don’t usually, well, reveal much.

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Neither do the guys!  (Except for that one exhibitionist on the left.) 

This group did, however, spend the bulk of their beach time sneaking up on each other in boisterous raids, grabbing wrists and ankles, and tossing the fully-clothed target into the sea. One of the most entertaining people-watching sessions I’ve experienced here so far.

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For Busanites and visitors wishing to explore beaches other than Haeundae and Gwanganli, Songjeong is a quieter stretch of sand, sprawling a little over a kilometre before the East Sea near the edge of Dalmaji Hill.  At the entrance sits an evergreen park called Jukdo, and a short bus ride away is the epic Haedong Yonggungsa temple, where you can spot the tiny monks mentioned in my last post. 

The temple and the beach make a sweet combo for a day trip, especially when the weather and the water unite…

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Apparently Songjeong also hosts a surf bar located right on the beach called Blowfish.  (Yep, the waves at this beach get big enough to surf on.)  Not sure how we missed this watering hole during our Songjeong sojourn, but we’ll definetely be back to hunt it down.  Any place referred to as “Thailand in the front, Afghanistan in the back,” can count me in.

Route to Songjeong:
 

From Busan Station: Take Bus No.139, 140, 239, 302-1
From Subway: Take subway line No.2 and get off at Haeundae Station (Exit no.7)→ Take Bus No. 100, 100-1, 139, 142 → Get off at Songjeong Station and walk 600 meters.

Or, ride line 2 all the way to Jangsan and hop in a cap from there.  In just five to ten minutes, you’ll be scoping out the surf, the sand and the shirts! 

I recommend.


Open Class with Parents in a Korean Public School

Having an open class can be extremely stressful. A lot of it is out of your control: you can plan the perfect lesson but what if your kids get performance anxiety? What if your class starts late or early and throws off your carefully planned schedule? What if, what if, what if--all of those what ifs can drive you nuts. For the Korean public school teachers it can be even more stressful--the evaluations from parents and administrators will play a significant part in determining their pay scale. My co-teacher this year is new to teaching (and a fabulous natural) so I told her the essential thing about nailing an English open class:

It doesn't matter what actually happens. It just has to look good.

You'd think that having a 4th grade level English class would mean that everyone understands since most people were required to take over 10 years of English classes but this isn't the case.

In any case, it went down flawlessly.  We basically took a standard lesson and made it glossier. Instead of black and white disposable game boards we printed color versions and had them laminated. The students we called on for the warm-up questions were students who we knew had loud voices and loved  participating rather than the mix of levels we do in a standard class. Other than that, it was a completely normal lesson. And the parents loved it. Universally, they commented (my co-teacher translated everything for me afterward) that our energy was infectious--the kids loved learning with us.  The parents loved how our acting everything we said made the class easy to understand and fun to watch.  One mom said she was surprised by how fast the time flew by, 40 minutes seemed like nothing. And yes, I didn't see a single dad in a school full of mothers visiting.

I love teaching the 4th grade.  They aren't jaded by learning yet or stressed out by overwork and exams.  If you make it seem fun they will have fun learning.  It makes my day when I get to chat with them in the halls or in the streets on the weekend.  They are just so damned happy to be alive. 

The only less than perfect thing that happened for the open class: my co-teacher and I accidentally wore the same color top again.  Two open classes in a row we were very coordinated. I think that for the next one in December we might have to coordinate. Then again, Koreans are all about matching so maybe it was a good thing?

Destination: Jumunjin Beach (Gangneung, Gangwon-do)



Not far from the northern border, Jumunjin Beach could be considered one of many beaches along Korea's east coast. As the peak season hasn't yet started I'll refrain from predicting its future popularity, but a Sunday afternoon in mid-June left more than enough beach for the Lady in Red and I.


After arriving, we found our way to the adequate public facilities and changed. A shower building offered some non-salty water for 2,000 won, but wasn't yet open. Expect it to be open by July 1st, the official opening of the beach.

The highlight of the beach was easily the clear waters - we could easily see the ripples in the sand at the bottom of the water, along with the shells and seaweed:




A bit of trash along the sand (not pictured) was a reminder that this particular part of the beach hasn't seen a lot of attention. Plenty of shells for the souvenir seekers, though.



Some more walking north along the East Sea / Sea of Japan led us to a few benches.



This wasn't the only lookout point - and being on the northeast tip of South Korea, it would be a pretty decent place for the north to invade. Note the gun racks.


A bit more walking and we came to a lighthouse and the continued beach. With no barriers on the sand to speak of, it was quite possible to take that long walk along the beach, or along the road that hugged the sea's curves. Either way, there's plenty of coast to take in. Not far from this picture were a couple coffeeshops and restaurants if you needed a break from the sand and surf.

While it's a bit remote, the clear waters and decent facilities merit a trip; other beaches may promise the crowds and plenty of tourist-friendly attractions, but this area is one to visit for the 'off-the-beaten-path' folks.

Directions to Jumunjin Beach: Take a bus to Gangneung (from Seoul's Express Bus Terminal, buses leave every 15- 30 minutes; about 3 hours and 15 minutes travel time). Once at Gangneung, take a bus to Jumujin (1,800 won, 20 minutes travel time, comes frequently). From there, a short taxi ride to 문진해변 (Ju-mun-jin hae-byeon) will get you to the entrance.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Ease to arrive:


Foreigner-friendly:


Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:


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Can't Leave Korea?

So I'm blogging from the airport in Busan (Gimhae actually).  We got up at 4am, departed the hotel at 5am and should've flown out of Busan by now.  But dang, there was a massive accident on the highway involving a tractor trailer (drunk driver) and some foreigners.  Crushed walls on the side of the highway, debris all over the road and a jack-knifed truck blocking our path to the highway made for an eventful morning.  Needless to say, we didn't make our 6:50 am flight.

Hanee and her father, who were kind enough to take us to the airport, said that Korea really doesn't want us to leave.  Trucks are blocking our way, flights are getting cancelled - things just aren't lining up.  On the positive side, we got to spend more time with these two awesome people.  This is just another piece to our great adventure here in Korea.  Gotta love it.  Well, Carol reminds me that I should save the battery on the laptop.  Signing off for now...

BTW, what an awesome day yesterday was.  Will never forget it.

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