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Jirisan National Park

24 Oct 2009, With the arrival of autumn and the changing of the leaves, I head to the scenic Jirisan National Park and learn a little more about Korean history and culture.

Honeymoon: Old Friends in Adelaide

The three best things about returning home are food, friends and family. I don't know if it's abnormal, but I've been lucky enough to have never experienced homesickness. Although I always look forward to returning to Australia, I also enjoy being in other places too. I think the key is to focus on the 'here and now'.

Korea has some good food, but nothing ever beats food from home. Hong's Dad opened a new barbecue restaurant while I was away, so we went there to eat for lunch. Barbecue pork is one of those things that I never see in Korea, even though Korea is otherwise a pork paradise.

Once upon a time, when I was a young lad, I worked at a Malaysian restaurant as a kitchenhand and then a cook. It was a defining part of my adolescence and I learned a lot about working and making an honest wage. For six of those seven years, I was under the mentorship of a respectable chef called Jimmy Lai, who ended up opening his own restaurant called the Kopi Tim. On our first night back in Adelaide, we went there to eat.

Jimmy cooked brilliantly as always. He taught me most things I know about wok frying in particular, and has had a colourful life. In the photo above is crispy skin chicken, one of his personal specialities. He also made his signature fish head curry, which is a delicacy no one else in Adelaide can execute perfectly. Including myself, even though I learned it from him.

Roti bread is Malaysia's version of Naan bread. According to legend (and Jimmy), when the first Indian migrants arrived in Malaysia, they closely guarded the technique for making Naan so that their restaurants would always have customers. The local Malays experimented with different ingredients and eventually came up with Roti, which has non-raising flour. Roti became a hit in Malaysia, and the tides turned, with the Malaysians keeping the Roti recipe a secret. Even now in Adelaide, Jimmy still doesn't teach anyone how to make it.
In order to aerate it properly, it's spun in the air with a difficult technique. The chefs will spin it so thinly that a small tennis ball sized lump of dough will expand out to the size of an open umbrella. Then they fold it up and fry it, before whacking it with bare hands into a fluffy and crispy pile of pastry.

And here are my boys from back home, laid back and straight from the west side. The biggest downfall to living in Korea is not being able to hang out with them.

Here we are after eating voraciously. Old friends and good food - what more could anyone need?

And here are Jimmy's sons, who work in his restaurant. I used to tutor them in English and maths when they were much younger. At that time, they were about waist high, but now they're taller than me. That's what happens when you eat Jimmy's cooking everyday.

We're a very close group of friends back home, and Hong's family let us stay in the spare room at the back of the house. I used to live just around the corner right before I left for Korea.

And here's Hong's dog, Pow-Pow. He's an eccentric German Shepherd cross, and is very picky about who he gets along with. We'll be hearing more about him in another blog post.

Australia is a big country with around half the population of Korea. Space is cheap and most houses have front and back yards. A large portion of my childhood was spent looking at things like insects and dog poop in my backyard.

The funny thing is, three years ago when I started this blog, I was mainly describing interesting things about living in Korea. Now I feel like I'm introducing Australia.

"Hey look everyone, this is what we call a backyard."

Hong's parents raise ducks and chickens, which are great for getting rid of food waste and providing an endless supply of fresh eggs. Every once in a while, Hong's mum will bring one to the chopping board and later there'll be a smallish looking chicken on the dinner table. I usually think of myself as your average tough guy, but chopping off a live chicken's head makes my legs go a little wobbly. Then again, I've seen Hong's mum squash spiders and cockroaches with her bare hands and then put them in the bin. She'd give the Korean ajummas a good run for their money.

And they also keep a sizable vegetable patch. There's something remarkably satisfying about eating food from your own backyard.

And they have two beehives, which they use to extract litres of honey every year. They gave us around 2 litres of it and we've still got half left here in Korea.

Yeung is Hong's younger brother. He finished up his course and is now a qualified mechanic. In the photo above is his car, a Nissan Silvia. I think it has turbo and 4 megabytes of RAM and super duper stuff that even I don't know about.

I heard that it can go from zero to the speed of light in zero seconds. As soon as you start timing, it's already doing 300km/hr.

And because Yeung and Hong are both in the car business, they fixed up this Toyota and lent it to us so that we could get out and about while they were at work.

Life is all about having good friends and being thankful for it.

Here's a photo that Heather snapped while I was driving. She later commented on how serious I look when I drive.

That's because I'm a responsible driver.

So what's the first thing we did when we hit the streets of Adelaide? Well we went right around the corner to the Prospect Road pie shop. I had been craving a good old Aussie meat pie for an eternity. Even to the point where I had dreams about eating one and would wake up with drool on my Korean pillowcase.

We took our loot to a nearby community hall and playground. In Australia, you can hire out community halls for badminton or social events. And the playgrounds are often empty during the day.

I bought a pie, a pastie and a sausage roll for lunch. Quite a lot really, and I ended up being satisfyingly bloated.

Heather selected a sandwich. Australian sandwiches are superior to Korean sandwiches in every aspect of sandwich judgement. She also had a nibble of the pie, pastie and sausage roll, which she said were nice, but the sausage roll had too much pastry on the outside. I agreed.

In ancient Korea, the girls used to play on large swings suspended from the boughs of trees. Heather felt the ancestral urge pulling her to the playground swing and happily swang away for a while. I remember when I was young, I used to run under the swings while someone was swinging, even though the teacher told us it was against the playground rules.

And then we drove up to catch up with an old friend with an eclectic personality. I used to come this way a lot when I was living in Australia.

Mongkol is my Cambodian friend who hasn't left his house for a year. He has a fricative personality and enjoys creating complex situations. I chose the word 'fricative' particularly because it's entirely ambiguous.
Mongkol is one of the few adolescent males in the developed world who neither has a mobile phone or an email address. In fact, there is no way to trace him whatsoever from Korea.

For the occasion, we went out and bought some James Boag's beer and some Moet and Chandon, which we proceeded to drink on the porch in the early afternoon.

While waiting for Mongkol to get ready, we decorated his bird bath. Bird baths do not exist in Korea.

And because a guy like Mongkol would never have a champagne glass in his house, we drank the Moet from coffee mugs. That's some real Aussie culture right there - we're a country of classy mongrels. Australia is definitely where I feel most at home, although I'm happy living in Korea too. One day we'll be back to live, it's just a matter of when.

More of our trip to Australia coming soon!

Daddy Donkey Mexican Grill

Yesterday I braved the London cold for my first taste of UK street food in ages. My destination was the Daddy Donkey Mexican Grill in Leather Lane Market, Holborn. The grill comes highly recommended, and I was interested to see how UK fare compared to its Asian counterparts.

Daddy Donkey started off as a wooden stall four years ago, and since then has upgraded to a fully fledged burrito mobile . It's a slick operation, staffed by a friendly and dexterous 4-5 man crew that churn out burritos to a long line of customers at a frightening pace.

Ordering is simple - decide between a burrito, tacos or a salad, then choose a filling and either mild, medium, hot or extra hot salsa. I went for a Daddy D burrito with steak and hot salsa. The steak had been marinated in chipotle adobo and grilled, and the burrito included lime rice, black beans, lettuce, sour cream and cheese.

I've never been to Mexico, but this was up there with the best burritos I've had. The steak was great - charred, flavoursome and substantial, and the fillings worked a charm. I particularly enjoyed the black beans, which were slow cooked to form a wonderful, viscous mass that gave the burrito an extra dimension.

All this made for an excellent lunch and a great intro to British street food. At £5.75 it didn't come cheap, but the quality ingredients and large servings made it just about worth it (this is London after all.)

One thing I noticed about the stall was the heavy branding that was going on. To be honest the logos, slogans and t-shirts took me back a bit, and my single burrito was served in what I considered an unnecessarily expensive looking paper bag( I do realise however that the branding is a central reason for its success and without it I probably never would have been there in the first place.)

A great feed, and an essential stop on any self-respectin', mex-lovin', street food freak's London itinerary

Daddy Donkey Mexican Grill

Yesterday I braved the London cold for my first taste of UK street food in ages. My destination was the Daddy Donkey Mexican Grill in Leather Lane Market, Holborn. The grill comes highly recommended, and I was interested to see how UK fare compared to its Asian counterparts.

Daddy Donkey started off as a wooden stall four years ago, and since then has upgraded to a fully fledged burrito mobile . It’s a slick operation, staffed by a friendly and dexterous 4-5 man crew that churn out burritos to a long line of customers at a frightening pace.

Ordering is simple – decide between a burrito, tacos or a salad, then choose a filling and either mild, medium, hot or extra hot salsa. I went for a Daddy D burrito with steak and hot salsa. The steak had been marinated in chipotle adobo and grilled, and the burrito included lime rice, black beans, lettuce, sour cream and cheese.

I’ve never been to Mexico, but this was up there with the best burritos I’ve had. The steak was great – charred, flavoursome and substantial, and the fillings worked a charm. I particularly enjoyed the black beans, which were slow cooked to form a wonderful, viscous mass that gave the burrito an extra dimension.

All this made for an excellent lunch and a great intro to British street food. At £5.75 it didn’t come cheap, but the quality ingredients and large servings made it just about worth it (this is London after all.)

One thing I noticed about the stall was the heavy branding that was going on. To be honest the logos, slogans and t-shirts took me back a bit, and my single burrito was served in what I considered an unnecessarily expensive looking paper bag( I do realise however that the branding is a central reason for its success and without it I probably never would have been there in the first place.)

A great feed, and an essential stop on any self-respectin’, mex-lovin’, street food freak’s London itinerary

Win concert tickets

Just a quickie post for now --

I know you love to win stuff - how does a pair of tickets for an electronic music show sound? Through
December 10th, pick your favorite Korean movie and be entered in a special drawing for free concert tickets to Club DJ at LIG Art Hall in Gangnam (December 22nd-24th). The form is here, and more information is available on 10 Magazine's website.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2009

 

Flying, falling

I had one of those lovely flying dreams last night.

Perhaps it was caused by the condition I had put my body in during the day. I was attempting to conduct a five-day raw fruit and vegetable cleanse. With preparation, these can be of great benefit. But, with a handful of lettuce leaves, some broccoli slaw, two apples, and lots of “Sleepytime” tea they create a very, very bad headache and a desire for eggplant rollatini. It probably was the best ShopRite-brand eggplant rollatini I have ever had.

Besides a two-hour layover around midnight, where I walked the dog, had a bowl of Life and sent e-mails, I slept from 7:30 p.m. until 6 a.m. It was great, absolutely great.

Sometime around the final leg of slumber I dreamed DwD. and I were players on the New York Jets. This is particularly amusing because: a) neither of us is a fan of the New York Jets and: b) DwD. is not noted for being a particularly dedicated football fan. But, there we were, in an apartment building in something I guess resembling a football uniform. We had helmets on but I think I had underneath my helmet my dog-eared wooly hat.

It is apparently the beginning of the quarter and we are supposed to return to the field. DwD. exits the apartment and I follow, only to be slowed by a pair of fellow former students from high school: Frank, who did play on the football team, and some little guy who I think might have been named Chris (then again, who wasn't named Chris in high school?). They are surrounded by several attractive girls and all seem to be headed to the game as well. At first I feel apprehension (the armchair psychologist in me would call it “high school hangover”) at talking to them, which is unnecessary since they both seem to be perfectly fine folk. I remember that I am on the New York Jets and, with a mild sense of self-importance, let them know I must be on my way and set off at a jog toward to stadium.

It is at this point I begin to feel like I am floating a few inches off the ground, which helps me move faster, I think. My legs spin like I am on a bike. I hear what sounds like a PA system from the stadium though no stadium is in sight. I rise a few more inches, a few more, a few more still, to the point where I can see what amounts to a tropical forest along the edge of a beach, and clear blue water beyond. I am still in my faux-football uniform as I climb higher and higher, as if in a plane, until I see everything along the water's edge, my arms flapping like a bird. Then I begin to descend.

At first the drop is slow, and it appears I will be able to guide my fall onto the beach. But, no matter how much I move my body in that direction, I cannot seem to reach land. The descent is picking up speed now and I am beginning to worry that I will fall into that clear water which, no matter how pretty it appears, will still kill me.

Just before I fall in, I see a crest on the side of a steep stone wall, declaring that piece of property owned by the family of Colleen, which is amusing since I am seeing her in New York this weekend and have not seen her since August, when I checked my e-mail on her new laptop and found out my teaching assignment had been pulled.

Then I fall in. No splash, not a crash, or with any kind of intense impact. I move right into the water effortlessly.

I look around. It is so stunning and I can see everything. Is that coral? An underwater city? It seems like I can breathe, but my sense of panic at being unable to swim takes over too fast. I wiggle my toes, then my arms, then everything, and I wake up a little after 6 a.m.

I panicked, I think to myself. I didn't even give it a chance.


—John Dunphy

Open Thread #1


( Source: RaySoda )

Why didn’t I think of this months ago?^^

With the proviso that most visitors to a blog about gender and sexuality are usually rather disappointed with what they find(!), the good news is that the popularity of my blog has grown dramatically in recent months, and I really enjoy and appreciate all the additional comments and emails I’ve been getting as a result.

Unfortunately though, all that’s coincided with a much heavier workload at my job. And with a non-working spouse and two young daughters on top of that, then I literally have only about an hour each night to devote to the blog these days.

You’ve probably already noticed the reduction in the number of posts. While I think I’m still pretty good at responding to comments though, that’s definitely at the expense of emails from readers, and I constantly have a backlog of about 20 or so in my in-box. Usually relatively long, intelligently written, and interesting, I consider it a real achievement if I manage to reply to about 3 or 4 in a week.

And as new ones come in, then older ones tend to get further and further down the screen. Some people must surely have given up on me by now, for which I apologize.

But I don’t want to give the impression that I don’t want to be emailed: quite the opposite. And the delay with some isn’t entirely due to my lack of time. More, it’s because I’m not actually the most appropriate person to answer their questions, either because I simply don’t know, and/or I can’t help, however much I’d like to.

In nine-tenths of those cases though, I’d be surprised if readers couldn’t.

I realize what that may sound like: getting my readers to do my work for me. And sure, maybe I am.^^ But by no means is anybody obliged to(!), and regardless it’s surely better to have questions and requests for help getting to the right people rather than have them languishing in my in-box.

( Source: RaySoda )

Those are just one purpose of having a weekly open thread though, and not necessarily the primary one. The other is to give me a place where I can mention things that are still interesting but which I don’t have time to further develop into a blog post, or – more importantly – for you to bring up and discuss things yourself. Naturally I’d prefer things related to gender, sexuality, advertising and pop-culture, and preferably Korean too, but I’m extremely flexible. And by all means please feel free to link and discuss your own blog posts and so on: with my schedule, that’s probably the only way I’d ever find out about them!

With that in mind, let me provide a few things to get the ball rolling. First, a problem someone emailed me about. I’ve removed the author’s details because – surprise, surprise – I haven’t had time to ask permission to reproduce it publicly sorry, but I’ll make sure to let them know as soon as I can!

…Adoptees, such as myself, who have visited Korea often tend to come back either angry or induced with yellow-fever.  It has often left me wary of my own trip, pending next year and I have been trying to acclimate myself about Korea & culture before visiting.  Korean immigrants often wax poetic about their home country and refuse to discuss anything negative about it.

The reason I’m contacting you, besides to thank you for the well-written pieces, is because I wondered if you have any insight into the adoption attitude in Korea.  So much of what I have read in articles about Korea and how they are addressing adoption is very optimistic and pro-active – they have stated they intend to phase out all international adoptions by 2012.  Yet, from what I understand from other adoptees and social workers, the reason why Korea has such a history of adoption-”exportation” is partly due to the attitudes of single mothers, contraception, and blood-only attitudes.  Most Korean immigrants or visitors immediately apologize when the issue of adoption comes up but then refuse to discuss the topic.  I still don’t have a clear picture of the Korean attitude and was wondering if you have any insight to share.


( Source: Center for Korean Studies )

And now an interesting point from another email to get some discussion going:

…I enjoy reading your blog tremendously, it is exactly the sort of things I like to think about. I’ve obviously noted that women here in Korea act more “childish” and traditionally feminine than in Europe. In [the European country I'm from] there isn’t really a strong focus on gender or gender roles that much, but women act much more masculine, engaging in sports frequently and heavy drinking. The behavioral difference between genders there is not so great. Still, men occasionally make their silent effort to “out-man” women, by not allowing their girl to become stronger than them, or by trying to unnerve them or trying to have the upper hand. This is all very subtle, and they won’t admit to it usually. In Korea, where the threshold for being more masculine than your girl is so low, it isn’t strange that men allow themselves to adopt relatively feminine characteristics. At the same time they maintain a very macho attitude, to contrast the very femi attitude adopted by women. This is confusing, but interesting all the same.

I’d never considered that, and it puts a interesting spin on all the posts about the development of Korean heterosexuality I’ve written (see “My Constantly Evolving Thesis Topic” on my sidebar). If that’s not up your alley though, then consider Brian in Jeollanam-do’s comment to this post of mine instead, in which he suggests that bottoms are generally viewed asexually in Korea. After reading it, I decided to test his hypothesis by taking a poll of my students’ opinions of the advertisement I wrote about there:

And I’d be interested in hearing what your own (adult) students and Korean friends and partners think too. Personally, while my two classes of 20 and 30-somethings are hardly representative of Koreans as a whole, I see no reason to think that they’re particularly unrepresentative either. And guess what? Only about a fifth of them saw the dancing in that as at all sexual, which simply astounded me…

Finally though, this is the weekend, so the person who writes the best caption to this next wins a free beer when they’re next in my part of Busan!

( Source: RaySoda )

Hello Mr. TurnballI’ve been reading your blog/site for the last 6 months and I find it to be very insightful and very well thought out.  I appreciate such a 3rd point of view.  Your blog was recommended to me by another Korean adoptee who visited Korea in search of her own answers.  Compared to talking with recent visitors or new immigrants, your reviews & thoughts about Korean society seems more helpful.

Adoptees, such as myself, who have visited Korea often tend to come back either angry or induced with yellow-fever.  It has often left me wary of my own trip, pending next year and I have been trying to acclimate myself about Korea & culture before visiting.  Korean immigrants often wax poetic about their home country and refuse to discuss anything negative about it.

The reason I’m contacting you, besides to thank you for the well-written pieces, is because I wondered if you have any insight into the adoption attitude in Korea.  So much of what I have read in articles about Korea and how they are addressing adoption is very optimistic and pro-active – they have stated they intend to phase out all international adoptions by 2012.  Yet, from what I understand from other adoptees and social workers, the reason why Korea has such a history of adoption-”exportation” is partly due to the attitudes of single mothers, contraception, and blood-only attitudes.  Most Korean immigrants or visitors immediately apologize when the issue of adoption comes up but then refuse to discuss the topic.  I still don’t have a clear picture of the Korean attitude and was wondering if you have any insight to share.

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Posted in Admin, Announcements, Open Threads, Readers' Emails
  

 

Destination: Kishiwada Castle (Osaka, Japan)



The picturesque Kishiwada Castle rests in a quiet corner of Osaka, somewhat removed from the busyness of a large city.



Japanese castles are often surrounded by a moat, and this one was no exception. Walk around to the front entrance - and the only connection with land.

After paying the 300 yen (about $3 USD) admission fee and picking up an English-language brochure, one of the first exhibits was worth paying attention to:



Unfortunately, there was little English to be found outside of the decent brochure given to me. Made during the last period of the Heian era, or roughly sometime in the 12th century, this statue was installed in the temple of the Okabe family for 13 generations.


A beautiful folding screen - the various flags are representative of specific generals.


How would you like to wear this into battle?


A genealogy of the Okabe family. In 1640, Nobukatsu Okabe came here from Settsu-Takatsuki, and ruled the Kishiwada area until the Meiji Restoration in the 1860's. Talk about a 'family house' - this place was definitely passed down from one generation to the next.


Best caption wins a cookie. My best? Come on, I've been waiting 30 years to read the paper...



A miniature model of the Kishawada Castle and the surrounding area. And yes, I enjoy playing around with manual focus (the horrors!).

It's a real shame that the museum lacks English explanations - although an English brochure provides some information, going with a Japanese friend will help you understand the exhibits better. Without some assistance, you'll have a tough time making out what happened during an interesting period of Japanese history.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Ease to arrive:


Foreigner-friendly:


Convenience facilities:


Worth the visit:


Directions to Kishiwada Castle: From Kansai Airport in Osaka, take a local train on the Nankai Main Line to the Takojizo station. ONLY the local train stops at this particular station. Walk out the only exit (basically the end of the platform), cross the train tracks, then take the first right. Walk about 250 meters to a T-shaped intersection, take the left and look up at the castle. Walk around either way to the far side to reach the entrance. Admission 300 yen; open Tuesdays - Sundays 10am - 5pm, no entrance after 4pm; closed on Mondays and when they change exhibits.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2009

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