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Soi Min Part 2

I asked Soi Min where he was stationed, “Mizoram, Bangladesh and Chin State in Northern Burma.”

I asked what he ate, “Bamboo shoots and snails,” he smiled, like a fox, swallowing a mouthful of buttered yam. I asked about rice, “We carried only rice and matches. Sometimes only matches.”

He said that that the Mizoram, clans from Northeast India, supplied (and supply) medicine and beans. Sometimes his unit and other rebel units cultivated gourd and corn in the jungle. During seasonal Spring and Harvest they bought pigs and feasted with villagers. During monsoon they hid in bamboo thickets so thick that nobody bothered them except leaches and mosquitoes.

I told him that I know all about Himalayan leaches! How they stick like the worst kind of booger! Like sticky white rice, only sucking your blood at a magnificent rate, all brown and hard and swollen on the main vein of your thigh.

He said he had to carry netting with him at all times but had got malaria anyways. I told him I’d seen the clouds of mosquitoes but he just laughed at me, this guy!

He did this for three years, while his wife, also a Burmese refugee in India, snuck into Burma to hand out anti-government pamphlets.

This was in Mizoram State, a border-state full of jungles and no-man’s lands, one of the most beautiful places in the world. One of the poorest – and richest.

Burma has always been one of Asia’s richest countries in natural resources.

Rubies, lots. Oil and gas. Teak. Hydropower. Any gemstone or metal imaginable almost.

And the people in Burma, nothing but poverty, brutality and despair for 99% of the population.

The Junta Formerly Known as SLORC (as I like to call them in honor of the artist formerly known as Prince) uses the methods of George Orwell in 1984. Newspeak. Thoughtcrime.

Newspeak is a clever form of linguistic segregation. Although linguistic segregation exists everywhere around the world and in every culture, the Burmese Junta takes it to it to the extreme.

They use that shifting of words, changing definitions that Orwell wrote about. For example, SLORC or State Law and Order Council. Their actual mission is to break laws and create disorder.

The name SLORC changed after a bit, just as names do in Newspeak. They changed to SPDC, State Peace and Development Council, whose mission it is to be violent and destroy. Eventually this name will change, and then finally there will some man from 1984, beating you to death, until you finally understand his logic. He holds up three fingers and says, “How many?” You answer, “five,” and he tells you that your mind is getting healthier every day.

Understand?

This is Newspeak, and so we will speak new, today. That sort of thing.

Burma’s junta calls Burma The Union of Myanmar. Would you guess that it’s the same kind of union we have in America? No? No – and yes.

The Union of Burma is actually a bunch of warring clans. Each clan, each village, speaks a different language and has different customs. The communication difficulty creates culture shock and xenophobia, and so not only do the clans fight against one another, but each village hates the next village, each family hates the next family, and so on and so forth as it’s been since before written text, in them thar hills; Himalayan Hatfield and McCoy, Bloods and Crips, Blacks and Whites, so on and so forth.

On a national level the government promotes the kind of xenophobia that would make the folks at Fox News envious – with huge rallies against all outsiders at any level, whom they accuse of being, “democratic,” (which in Burma’s Newspeak, means to be a western colonial power like America or England).

Oh yes, the Burmese know all about Christopher Columbus.

The military leaders in the meantime do not allow any minority languages in the schools (like America’s English Only Laws).

This means each minority is bound to fail in school (like in America) because they only know the language that they spoke at home most of their lives, on some giant hill a three days walk from school. In each village the people have spoken nothing but clan languages for centuries and consider it a point of pride to maintain their identity (like minorities in America).

Language segregation has been used, successfully, by Burma’s rulers for centuries also, so it should be no wonder that George Orwell discovered his muse for three different novels, 1984, Animal Farm, and Burmese Days, in those jungly hill stations that Soi Min kept telling me me about.

To Be Continued…..


Posted in 1, American Economy, Asia America, burma, burma student leader, Democratic Voice of Burma, Indian Education, myanmar, rambo, SLORC, southeast asia, SPDC, state law and order resoration council, state peace and development council, TESOL, Travel Vignettes and Advice, walt kowalski

scott morley

Destination: The Story of Sejong


Admiral Yi Sun-Shin overlooking Gwanghwamun Plaza and an impressive light / water show.

Not to be confused with the King Sejong Memorial Hall, the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts, Sejong's statue in Yeouido Park, or anything else featuring Korea's most famous king, the Story of Sejong recently opened underneath the new statue of King Sejong.



The new statue was first unveiled on Hangeul Day (October 7th), requiring five months, the bronze of 32 million ten-won coins, and the clay of 54,000 rice bowls. The backside of the statue is one entry to the museum / display, which is also connected to the Gwanghwamun Plaza and the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts.



Where most other displays of King Sejong around Seoul are primarily concerned with his accomplishments, this one also seemed interested in telling us his life story. Although directions and titles are available in several languages (including Spanish, curiously) only Korean and English are available on the displays. I had no idea that he was "endowed with absolute perfect pitch" or that his favorite food was meat and cherries.



Several exhibits built into the wall display inventions or writings. To the left is the Samgang Haengsildo - the Conduct of the Three Bonds. To the right, a singijeon - a Korean rocket-propelled arrow. Since it was invented during Sejong reign, it merits a place in the museum.



A guide shows off the Joseon Dynasty's understanding of the stars. Below, a recreated sundial may never show the proper time, but definitely helps people to understand how it was used.

King Sejong was quite the musician as well as inventor. Beyond being able to tell which notes of the pyeongyeong, or stone chimes, were out of tune, King Sejong also created jeongganbo, a form of musical notation that captures the unique characteristics of Korean music.



An interactive display demonstrating the jeongganbo notation system - place the foam blocks over your choice of instruments and listen to the result.



The story of King Sejong creating hangeul (the Korean alphabet) is displayed quite nicely. Originally known as the hunmin jeongeum, King Sejong first invented it in 1443 but spent three years testing it. Not too many people can write a book out of a new language, but 용비어천가 (yongbi eocheonga, or 'Songs of Flying Dragons') is considered an epic. The scene above pictures Sejong officially spreading the new Korean alphabet.



The 훈민정음해례본 (hunmin jeongeum haeryebon, or 'Explanations and Examples of Correct Sounds to Instruct the People'). Written by Sejong and other scholars of the time, it introduces the new letters and sounds - many of which are still used to this day. First published around 1446, it has been designated a National Treasure and is part of UNESCO's 'Memory of the World' list.



No tourist attraction would be complete without a souvenir shop, of course.

The area definitely explains a lot in a tourist-friendly way without being patronizing - and being part of Gwanghwamun Plaza means you don't have to go out of your way to see it. The next time you want to see how much one person can accomplish, this is the place to check out.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:


Directions to the Story of Sejong: Take line 5 of the Seoul subway system to the Gwanghwamun station. Follow the signs for Gwanghwamun Plaza, or take exit 2 to street level and look for the statue. Open Tuesday - Sunday (closed Monday) from 10:30 am - 10:30 pm, with last admission at 10 pm. Free admission; handicapped and wheelchair friendly.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2009

 

Nata Tat and The Ajusave

Aside from my weekend trip to Jeju Island, which I will post about later this week, nothing of note has happened to me lately. Something of note did happen to a friend of mine a couple of weeks ago, so I'm going to tell her story, in the way that I tell all stories - by making them all about me.

About a year and a half ago, I was nearly involved in a violent incident on the subway. I like to think that I was this close to just Ending some drunken scum who harassing me, but in reality I was likely closer to either getting my ass kicked or arrested. Thankfully, there was a magical Super Ajumma to save me from both myself, and that tragic waste of carbon and oxygen that was the Soju Man. Since that day, ajummas have pretty much been my favorite people (that is, until I moved to Seomyeon and started hating absolutely everybody).

While I've read quite a few horrific stories of this sort (and worse) on the Internet, until a couple of weeks ago my subway encounter was the worst of this nature that I'd heard first hand. Then, a friend of mine decided to put my weak look-what-almost-happened version of events to shame. I'm going to call her Nata Tat, because she totally digs that.

Nata Tat was riding the subway to Hadan (which may as well be on another planet) from Seomyeon (which shouldn't be on any planet). This usually takes her something like 45 minutes, calls for a book, and is an uneventful ride. Unless Drunk finds you.

Around 1pm, a charmingly drunk fellow stumbled into Nata Tat's subway car, cause that's just how some folks like to start their day. Personally, whenever drunk garbage stumbles into my space, I'm immediately on edge, with clenched fists and a readiness to break. Consider this the result of two years of regular harassment at the hands of random drunk men. Or an unhealthy reaction stemming from my broken psyche. Whatever it is, Nata Tat and I don't do crazy in the same way. She probably would have barely noticed him and continued with whatever thought it was she was having at the time, had Drunk not decided that she had a target on her cheek.

When the charming drunk fellow stumbled over to Nata Tat to scream in her face and follow it up with a full arm white trash style smack across the cheek, her reaction was what I would expect from most - shock. The man was set to continue berating her, when out of nowhere jumped in Super Ajumma, ready to save the day. With her gigantic purse, Super Ajumma whacked the man into submission, following it up with a verbal assault that had him in tears. Before Nata Tat could even piece together what the crap had just happened, she was being ushered into the special seating by the Super Ajumma, who's purpose in life is, seemingly, to make ours just a little bit safer.

Sadly, Nata Tat did not have a black eye to back up her story. Her word was enough, of course, if for no other reason than absolutely none of her tale was even remotely unbelievable. Of course there was a repugnantly drunk man on the subway at 1pm. Of course he decided to target the only foreigner on the train. And of course there was a wonderful, strong woman willing to stand up for what is right and smack the shit out of his pitiful existence. This is where we are.

The Ajusave. It's a thing. Cherish it.


Sunday Dinner

Sometimes the best part about being an adult is being able to do exactly what you would have done when you were a tiny little person - except now there is nobody around to tell you it's getting late, or not to make a mess.


You still play the same old fun games .....






..... float around a few special balloons .....





.... and then out comes the face paint......







... and Sponge Bob ....










Mix in a little dancing ....


... and there you have it.
A perfect Sunday night.

This is why we are friends.

[8:49:24 AM] Rhylon: I had a super weird dream about you last night

[8:49:48 AM] me: mmmmmmmmmmh

[8:52:57 AM] Rhylon : you were in this massive spiderweb in a big grey factory and all the yarns of the spiderwebs were intraveinously connected to you tubes and they were all pumping different kinds of sperm from different nationalities and you were spitting out babies and they were being rolled up in the flags of different countries like so many kimbaps

[8:54:28 AM] me: I am officially terrified for the day

[8:56:39 AM] Rhylon : hahaha

[8:57:02 AM] Rhylon : it's because I'm reading Omnivore's Dilemma right now and it's all about industrial corn-fed cattle farming

Poll results for November 2009

 

How well do you stay up-to-date with your HOME country's culture?

Very well - I know who's dating who, what movies have come out, and so on. 10 (11%)

Well enough - my family and friends think I'm current. 12 (14%)

OK - I usually hear about the big things but miss most of the smaller stuff. 27 (32%)

Not too much - but I don't think I'm missing anything important. 20 (23%)

I don't have time to keep up with it anymore 4 (4%)

Dude, Korea is my home - and I'm quite up-to-date on it. 11 (13%)

 
Total votes cast: 84. Results not scientific.

December 2009 events

December is upon us - amidst the Christmas and New Year seasons are a number of events worth checking out:

11/28 - 12/12 - 'Black Comedy' - A farce written by Peter Shaffer and performed by the Seoul Players. See what happens when Brindsley Miller "borrows" his neighbors fancy furniture to impress his fiancee's father, one Colonel Melkett. Roofers in Itaewon (exit 3, turn right at 'Discovery' store and look on the right, just before the Hive). Fridays at 9pm, Saturdays at 6pm and 9pm, Sundays at 3pm and 6pm. Book tickets at [email protected] or visit www.seoulplayers.com

12/2 - 12/6 - The Seoul Design Festival. This event differs from the Seoul Design Olympiad, although it looks to have much of the same focus. After festivals in Milano and Berlin earlier this year, it returns to the COEX mall. The website features some basic information in English, but expect the usual ironies of Korean websites (e.g. using the Korean language on the only map of COEX, having 'coming soon' on several links mere days before the event...)

12/3 - Stand Up Seoul - the first Thursday of every month is a great chance to hear English stand-up comedy. Brian Aylward is your host, and the Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon is the place. The show starts at 9pm, but performing probably means an earlier call time. Join their Facebook page to stay up-to-date with them.

12/5 - Rubber Seoul - the city's not bouncing, but Jane's Groove, Club FF, and DGBD will be hopping. They're raising funds for the Hillcrest AIDS Center in South Africa and the Little Travelers program - 10,000 won gets you into three clubs with live music and DJ's all night, along with free condoms if you need them. Please don't use them on the dance floor. Last year's party, while not blogged about, was a crowded and fun-filled evening. If you're already going to Hongdae or like a little value while partying, this is the night to do it - and feel warm and fuzzy. More information and the lineup can be found on their Facebook page.

12/5 - New York Harlem Singers of Christmas in Korea – classic spirituals, Elvis Presley, Michael Jackson and Christmas songs combine for an excellent sounding program. The most expensive tickets are still pretty affordable at 50,000 won apiece. For more information, call the Seoul Arts Center at 02-580-1301 or visit www.sac.or.kr.

12/11 and 12/12 - THE NUTCRACKER will be performed by the Seoul Ballet Theatre at Gwacheon Citizen's Hall. The company will move to Yongin-si Women's Hall for performances on the 18th-19th, and return to the Seoul Open Theater in Chang-dong from December 30th-January 3rd. For more information, call 02-3442-2637, e-mail [email protected], or visit www.ballet.or.kr.

12/12 - Santa Con 2009 - break out your Christmas costume, pass the spirits (beer, wine, or your favorite non-alcoholic egg nog - your choice) and sing to your heart's content. See an article on theyeogiyo.com, Kiss My Kimchi!, and this page about SantaCon Seoul. Hongdae area, about 3pm, exact place to be announced.

12/11 - 12/13 - The 2009/2010 Men’s Big Air Snowboard World Cup. The International Ski Federation’s decision makes Seoul the first Asian city to host the event. The main competition will take place at Gwanghwamun Square on the 13th, while other cultural events are planned for December 11th to 12th.



December 19 - 7:30PM: A performance of 'The Messiah' by George Fredric Handel by an choir of expats and Koreans. I'll shamelessly plug this thing not just because I'm performing in it, but because it's made up of, again, expat teachers. Soloists and instrumentalists will round out the performance as a proper Messiah performance should. Chung-dong 1st Methodist Church, Seoul - 10,000 won in advance, 15,000 won at the door. I have tickets for pre-sale - e-mail me at chrisinsouthkorea AT gmail DOT com for details. Contact Ryan Goessl at 010-9006-8655 (English) or Hee-su Hyun at 016-751-9675 (Korean) if you need more information. City Hall station (lines 1 or 2, exit 2 - walk along the outside of Deoksugung palace until you come to a rotary - walk straight across the rotary and you'll see the church).

12/23, 8pm – 2009 SAC White Christmas with the Kumho Art Hall Chamber Music Society. Get dressed to the nines and enjoy Mozart’s Exsultate Jubilate and several other selections with your sweetheart. For more information, call 02-580-1300 or visit www.sac.or.kr.

12/24 - Harpist Kwak Jung’s Christmas Concert – Sejong Chamber Hall,Sejong Center - 02-780-5614

12/31 - THE New Year's Party - Bosingak Belfry, sometimes considered the ‘Times Square’ of Seoul because of the massive crowd and celebration that fills the streets. The Belfry was used during the Joseon dynasty to tell people when the gates opened and closed (4am and 7pm); these days, the bell is rung 33 times by Seoul’s mayor right at midnight. Jonggak station, line 1, exit 4. Leave early, expect a huge crowd, and enjoy the fireworks.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2009

Soi Min from Mizoram Part 1

I am unemployed, broke, in debt and dependent on my parents. I can’t to receive unemployment benefits for another six months. I have the flu, asthma, possibly a hernia –  and no Medicaid. I ’m not speaking to my brother, and don’t want to speak to my mother. Right now I am hiding in my parent’s basement hoping to get some time to myself. Man I could cry you a river all night if you wanted me to.

But instead I will tell you that this was the best Thanksgiving since my Benjamin was born!

What happened was that I started volunteering to teach English to Burmese refugees this year.

Soi (pronounced Soy) Min, his wife Sui (pronounced Swee), and their daughter May O Wee are Burmese refugees from Delhi. They’ve been in Battle Creek only months. They live on refugee status and cannot work until they have their green cards. They have no transportation, and only a few Burmese friends. So they’re isolated, confused and depressed.

I tell Soi Min I am also confused and depressed, and why, because America seems to me in shambles, because we are celebrating a nation that celebrates Genocide on Thanksgiving.

Soi Min smiles so that his whole face lights up, eyes twinkling. He says he knows about Columbus, and about Pocohantos and Squanto.

Then he says that he wants to tell me some of his stories about Burma, and I want to hear them…

***

Soi Min had been living in India since the eighties because right now a well-armed band of soulless thugs rule Burma.

Soi Min became a Student Leader, which means he spoke for democracy and education, which means he just about marked himself for murder.

He escaped to the jungles between India, China, Bangladesh and Burma and became a guerrilla freedom fighter.

He showed me a photo of him at a camp. He had the shaggy head of a professor, a fuzzy face, a Fu Manchu and the same mischievous, gentle smile. He was reed-thin, set against a background of ancient old-growth tree trunks, and I thought to myself,

“Wow! My Burmese student just made Walt Kowalski look like a pussy faggot Pollock!”


Posted in Asia America, burma, burma student leader, myanmar, SLORC, TESOL, TESOL Lessons, Travel Vignettes and Advice

Korean Sociological Image #25 – Women: Apologize to your Bottoms!


( Source )

After all, even actress Oh Yoon-ah (오윤아) does, or at least according to the black text in the advertisement above.

It also proclaims that her buttocks are worthy of being described as part of a “쭉쭉빵빵” figure, so presumably the logic is that she needs the product being advertised to maintain that figure, with apologies to her buttocks for having used different methods previously.

Yet that’s based on the assumption that, in Korea too, it is a legal requirement for endorsers of products to have already used or be using what they’re advertising. But perhaps that would be applying too much logic here:

Compelling viewing for sure. But then Applehip Korea is essentially arguing that sitting on your ass all day is all you need to get “apple hips” (애플힙) like those of the women above, so possibly the aim of the commercial is more to distract you from that fact?

To be more precise, at least two hours of sitting in the seat a day are necessary according to this Korean “news” article, preferably with three uses of the massage function. See here and here for instructions, and all yours for a mere 338,000 won (US$288)!

Of course, by no means is South Korea the only country in the world where essentially useless exercise equipment is sold, and the seat may well improve one’s posture. But as this Korean source (refreshingly) laments, while Korean women’s interest in their appearance is excessively high, their interest in exercise is very limited. Indeed the entire beauty, diet, and exercise industries here are predicated on a widespread belief that obtaining the perfect body is possible provided one merely buys and passively uses, applies or digests various products.

Lest that sound like exaggeration, see here and here for further examples and links to studies providing empirical evidence. And unfortunately, because of a loophole in legislation regarding “health-related” products specifically, there is little to prevent Korean advertisers continuing to make such absurd claims of their products.

On a final note, did anyone else find having a guy standing with a sign saying “Women! Apologize to your bottoms!” a little creepy? How about several of them, standing on a street with placards and a shopping cart full of apples?

(Found via: Chris in South Korea)

Update: Not really related – the buttock-dancing in the commercials is not as much of a jump for Korea as it may at first appear – but the commercials instantly reminded of these ones from Reebok that have created so much controversy in the US recently. For those of you unfamiliar with them, see the ensuing discussion here, here, and here.

(For all posts in the Korean Sociological Images series, see here)

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Posted in Korean Advertisements, Korean Sociological Images, Korean Women's Body Images Tagged: Applehip, 애플힙, 오윤아, 쭉쭉빵빵, Oh Yoon-ah, Reebok
  

 

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