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경주

8 Aug 2009, Wanting to learn about Korean history, I come to 경주 Gyeongju, the capital of the Kingdom of Silla. I explore the Royal Tombs, anciant Palace Grounds, and the National Museum. Then the evening ends with a nice stroll along the river.

National Museum of Korea

Every couple of weeks, Heather and I head down to the Wondang markets in Nakseongdae to pick up groceries. Hybrid supermarket giants like E-Mart and Homeplus provide convenient one-stop shopping for many people in Korea, but the outdoor markets also have their advantages. Fresh fruits and vegetables are nearly always cheaper in the markets and the ajummas will often give you a little extra produce for free if you ask nicely.
You can also be content with the knowledge that you're supporting the local economy more directly.

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And it's nice to walk outside in the open air. When Homeplus is crowded, it becomes a nightmare just making it to the checkout. But when it gets busy in the markets, there's a more 'vibrant community'-type atmosphere to the occasion.

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In Korea you can buy fresh cockles in a bag. I never paid them much attention until just the other day, when I noticed that they were still alive. They're sealed in with fresh seawater and you can see them happily filtering away sediment, oblivious to the gravity of their situation.

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And this took a long time coming. The box in the middle has fresh coriander for sale, also known as cilantro. It's not very popular in Korea and is nearly as hard to find here as the mythical lime. The first time I ever ate it, I remember being a little turned off by the flavour. But over time I got used to it and now I can eat it with just about anything.

Apparently it's popularly disliked to the point where there are anti-coriander Haiku contests.

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Our dormitory room now has noticeably more food than before I was married. There's something satisfying about coming home with a whole bunch of groceries and sorting it all out.
We eat breakfast together every morning and take turns to prepare it.

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When my dad and brother were here last year, they visited the National Museum of Korea, which I hadn't been to. Heather and I decided we should go and check it out. It's right next to the Ichon subway station on line 4.

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The building itself is quite nice, surrounded by native trees and a large pond. Behind the building is a good view of N Seoul Tower, which used to be called Namsan Tower.

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The museum is large and it would take a full day to see everything on display. We walked around without much of a plan, beginning with the paleolithic era exhibits. The Korean peninsula has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with our early ancestors wielding stones like the ones in the photo above. They're called 'hand axes' and were probably used for meat-related applications.

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This cigar-shaped contraption is an example of an ancient stone coffin, which were only used by people who could afford them. The tombs of Korean nobles consisted of large mounds of earth, which later become covered with grass. The more important you were, the larger your mound would be.

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And I believe this is a bronze-age baseball cap. I've been trying to get into the sport, but it just doesn't have the same appeal for me as soccer or tennis.

But I do find the subtle tough-guy mannerisms of the baseball players on TV to be quite entertaining. They chew gum ferociously and never smile.

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One of the highlights of the museum is this Shilla gold jewellery set, which was worn by members of the ruling dynasty. The belt has symbolic pendants hanging from it, and there are jade beads woven into the crown. It's considered one of the best examples of ancient Korean gold craftsmanship.

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The building is large enough to accommodate this full-sized stone pagoda. I think it's an original, because there are visible signs of erosion on the lower levels. Each level of the pagoda symbolizes a higher state of consciousness.

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Most of the exhibits in the museum are pots or ceramics of some sort. Koreans were well-known for their expertise with celadon, and helped to spread the craft throughout Asia. Ceramics last for a long time, and you can see examples from every era in Korean history.

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The museum itself isn't too bad. I'm not particularly interested in ceramics, which constitute about 90% of the exhibits. I'd recommend visiting the museum if you have a particular interest in Korean history, but otherwise there are plenty of other things to do in Seoul if you're on a tight schedule. The Korean Folk Village is probably a better option.

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I haven't been able to go to Toastmasters much recently, due to a busy schedule. The last speech I gave was on Arisu, which is the name for Seoul city tap water. For those of you who are living in the city, the regular tap water in the vast majority of households is safe to drink. The government website has more information on the specifics. It tastes a little bit funny to begin with, but in the end it's healthier, cheaper and better for the environment than bottled water.

Give it a try sometime!

Korean Photoshop Disaster #3: Park Tae-hwan’s Babyface


( Source: High Cut )

Granted, it’s not the most egregious case of a Korean athlete’s face being photoshopped. That dubious honor still remains firmly in the hands of Gillette Korea, whose choice of pockmarked Manchester United footballer Park Ji-sung (박지성) to endorse them last year is probably also the most glaring example of the over-reliance on celebrities in Korean advertising too.

Unlike him though, youthful Olympic medalist Park Tae-hwan (박태환) already has unblemished and unusually smooth skin, which raises the question of what the photoshopping was for exactly?

Personally, it reminds me of the airbrushing of Milla Jovovich’s face in Resident Evil: Extinction (2007), which many viewers found unnecessary, confusing and/or distracting. Indeed, while I’ll be the first to admit that Tae-hwan has a great body (more of which you can see in the last post), and with the proviso that I’m a (jealous) heterosexual male, I’d say that in the second picture in the series his now somewhat seal-like face simply draws too much attention away from his abs…

Can anyone think of similar examples, particularly Korean ones? Please pass them on!

(For all posts in the Korean Photoshop Disasters series, see here)

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Posted in Korean Men's Body Images, Photoshop Disasters Tagged: 박태환, 박지성, High Cut, 포토샾, 하이 컷, Park Ji-sung, Park Tae-hwan, Photoshop
  

 

Question from a reader: DMZ tours

A reader named A. H. writes in:
I have a question about DMZ tours. I have been trying to book myself and a visitor to Korea for the weekend of March 5-7th. I have contacted the USO and have been informed they are no longer conducting tours due to contractual disputes, and do not know when they will be back up and running.

Would you have any information of a tour agency providing (cheap) tours to the DMZ the first weekend of March? I have only found very expensive tours.

Thanks!! I appreciate your help!
It may sound rather ironic that a travel writer focusing on Korea hasn't been to the DMZ; I also hadn't heard that the USO had stopped offering tours. To be honest, the DMZ doesn't hold my interest as a place to visit - and since it's such a widely visited tourist destination, I wouldn't have much to add to the myriad of stories or posts already out there. Call me blasé if you like, but it's so been done.

According to the USO's own website, the stoppage of tours is a '2 to 3 week pause' - perhaps giving them another try at the beginning of February will yield better results. Since tours with companies are offered daily, they're highly unlikely to be completely booked a month in advance. Just in case they're not up and running again, there are plenty of other places offering DMZ tours:
Since I can't recommend a tour based on personal experience, I'll trust an excellent website's information - and their recommendations of two companies:
  • Panmunjom Travel Center (02-399-2180) - 77,000 won; tours leave at 10:00 from the Panmunjom Co-op Center at Lotte Hotel
  • Good Morning Tours (02-774-3226) - 78,000 won; tours leave at Lotte Hotel on weekdays or the Donghwa Duty Free Shop on weekends.
Some other tour companies that offer DMZ Tours:
  • Chung-Ang Express Tour (02-2266-3350)
  • Global Tour (02-776-3153)
  • Star Travel (02-569-8114)
  • Grace Travel (AKA New Grace Tour in some older guidebooks) is listed on Life in Korea's website, and may be worth contacting.
A few things to keep in mind:
  • Your clothes - to make sure you don't end up in a North Korean propaganda photo, don't wear jeans, revealing shirts, sandals, t-shirt, sports wear, military clothes, etc. In other words, act like you're going to your boyfriend / girlfriend's church for the first time.
  • Your camera - there will be places where you're allowed to take photos and places where you're not allowed to take photos. Stick with the program, follow the rules, yadda yadda yadda.
  • Your passport - you'll need it. Keep it someplace safe while walking around, like a pocket.
  • Your attitude - this is not the place to flout the rules. The rules are there because the guards on the other side have been standing there with a loaded weapon in their hands for waaaaaay too long, and would like nothing better than to shoot someone breaking the rules. You will be told the rules - probably more than once - so follow them. You'll be told not to talk to or approach the North Korean soldiers. With all the headlines coming out of North Korea, I seriously doubt you want to be that person that starts an international incident. You're not going to cause any change in your half-day tour, so simply smile, follow the rules, and thank the men and women who serve in such a high-strung area.
Because it's the most common starting point:
To get to the Lotte Hotel, take line 2 of the Seoul subway system to the Euljiro-1-ga station. Take exit 8 to street level, then look left. If coming from City Hall Station (lines 1 and 2), take exit 6, then turn right. At the fork, bear left, then walk 150 meters and turn right. Lotte Hotel will be on your right.

Anybody made a trip to the DMZ? Advice, ideas, comments?

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

Korean Sociological Image #30: Exploiting Koreans’ Body Insecurities


Like everywhere else, Korea has a long tradition of celebrities endorsing government campaigns.

Unlike everywhere else, a “huge proportion of Korean ads depend on famous people,” says Bruce Haines, head of Korea’s largest ad agency Cheil Worldwide, a tendency which in its crudest form degenerates Korean advertising into merely “beautiful people holding a bottle.” In turn, that leads to a scramble for and subsequent overexposure of whichever Korean stars are most popular at that moment, regardless of their inappropriateness for the product(s).

Government campaigns are no different, to my mind the most notorious case still being the National Election Commission’s (중앙선거관리위원회) choice of The Wondergirls (원더걸스) to encourage people to vote in local elections in April 2008. Needless to say, I can’t think of anyone more inappropriate than teenagers (two of whom were only 15), and their choice of outfits simply beggars belief:

But again, no different to what they wore in commercials at the time. Which is precisely my point: regardless of their merits, major trends in advertising are bound to be reflected in government campaigns sooner or later.

And as long term readers of this blog will be well aware, one trend is encouraging consumers to associate certain foods and drinks with certain desired body shapes. While it is hardly unique to Korea, it is done to excess here.

Is it any wonder then, that with the decline of the domestic rice industy, and concerns food security as a whole, that the government would do the same when promoting the consumption of domestic foods and drinks?

Last year for instance, I gave the example of how the Korean rice wine Makgeolli (막걸리) was being marketed to women on the basis that it is supposedly good for one’s skin. Now, I’ve found two more examples by the Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (농림수산식품부; MIFAFF), using the new group 4Minute (포미닛) and the Olympic medalist Park Tae-hwan (박태환) respectively:

To be clear, I am not saying that either are inappropriate choices. Actually I think they’re rather good: both are very popular, and it turns out that 4minutes’ egg song is a variation of their recent hit “Hot issue” too. I also fully concede that the connections between consumption of the product and obtaining an attractive body are fleeting (4minute) or merely implied (Park Tae-hwan) at best.

But still, they’re there. And given the long-term problems with Korean agriculture as identified above, then I hereby predict that we’re going to be seeing many more public campaigns like these in 2010. In particular, the links made between the products being advertised and obtaining an “S-line” and so on are going to be made more explicit.

Sound like an exaggeration? Well, recall how quickly commercial incentives have transformed decades-old standards for soju advertisements: just three years ago, they overwhelmingly offered virginal images of women, whereas now it’s rather difficult to find ones that don’t present them as eminently sexually available. Moreover, in an effort to appeal more to women, soju companies too are encouraging them to associate new lower-strength brands with maintaining a good body, however implausibly.

But perhaps an even more appropriate example is soy milk. If you’ll bear with me, being allergic to milk means that I follow developments in the soy milk industry here pretty closely, and Starbucks Korea’s belated decision to add soy to its menu in 2005 had a huge impact on my quality of life here! Not unlike the drinks themselves though (anybody know where I can find these flavored ones?) – or, indeed, government campaigns – soy milk commercials tend to be rather bland, so I certainly sat up and took notice when I first saw this one a few days ago:

Soy milk companies too then, seem to be adopting the tactics of their more popular counterparts now. Lest I appear overly critical though, consider the scene 0:03 from 0:06 where 17 year-old Kim Hyun-ah’s says “[S]라인을 유지하려면 어쩔 수 없어,” or “If you want to maintain your S-line, you have no choice but to [drink] this.” Despite my constant criticisms of that sort of thing, and my earnest desire that my daughters don’t grow up to repeat it, I have to admit that I can’t help but find her expression and tone of voice, well, extremely cute…

Yes, I know: very hypocritical of me, and I await your counsel. But on a final, more serious note, consider Garaetteok Day (가래떡데이), MIFAFF’s scheme since 2006 to get people to eat stick-shaped rice cakes instead of Pepero chocolate sticks on November 11 each year. Promoted mostly as a romantic event for couples, as are most imported and/or artificially created holidays (Christmas Day, for instance, is the date the most condoms are sold in Korea), is it really too much of a jump to imagine that concerns about one’s appearances will be added to that too? Watch this space!

Update: An alternative way of exploiting Koreans’ associations with November 11 (source):

(For all posts in the Korean Sociological Images series, see here)

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Posted in Korean Advertisements, Korean Economy, Korean Media, Korean Men's Body Images, Korean Sociological Images, Korean Women's Body Images Tagged: 4Minute, 농림수산식품부, 김현아, 포미닛, 원더걸스, 중앙선거관리위원회, Kim Hyun-ah, The Wondergirls

full time student!

hey, guys~
I quitted my part time job today~!
from now, i'm full-time student! :-) in another word, i'm a white-hand(백수,a jobless person). But I'm ready to rush toward June's battle!!!

Published! (Heosimcheong Hot Spring)

I've been amiss in posting recently, though I have visited a couple new saunas for review.  The reason for the lack of posts is that I submitted one, along with another piece, to a local magazine based in Daegu, South Korea for publication.  The article is entitled "2 Days and 1 Night in Busan" and you can find it on the 13th page of the January 2010 Daegu Pockets Magazine.

The spa article includes a review of Heosimcheong Hot Spring in Busan.  You can find more info about this spa in my next most recent post - thanks!

Another article of mine will appear soon in Busan Haps Magazine, a similar periodical run by some English teachers in Busan.  Look for it in a future post. :)

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