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Please Mr.White Tiger, Don't Eat Me Up! - SWEDEN

Most of the people I know over here in Korea hopped on a plane for a few hours, found some small piece of island paradise a friend of a friend recommended, and spent their winter vacations languorously spread across a beach chair sipping $2 cocktails .... I did not.



I took a train from Busan to Seoul (3 hours) + bus to the airport (1 hour) + played in the Seoul airport (3 1/2 hours - this I didn't mind. I like airports) + flew to Paris (12 hours) + 2 hour layover ... CHEESE ...+ flew to Stockholm (2 hours)

I guess I should somewhat sheepishly acknowledge that my major in university was geography, and yes I am aware that flying to Paris in this situation was somewhat redundant as I was almost literally passing over Stockholm would just going to back track ... but my judgement was clouded by visions of wine and cheese dancing in my head.

Seoul Airport



... but eventually I made it ....



... and it was more than worth it ....




... in fact it was quite delicious. Let's start with the food.

Swedish breakfast.
It is already very sorely missed. The key to it is to have a man make this for you. They butter the flat bread in a way only a men can, with a reckless disregard for hips and thighs, paying attention only to ensuring that inappropriate sized globs of butter cling to all the bread's nooks and crannies.

You name it, we shake it. Brilliant.



Don't you want to nibble on his sausage? Just for reference 7 krona = a little more than 1,000 won = around 1$ CDN.
This little Italian restaurant near Pet Sounds had the most wonderful fennel salad and shared a secret with me, I might miss Toronto a little bit.

Question - Are muffins the new cupcakes? Because the enormous blueberry "shhheasecake" beast we feasted upon was amazing.

We spent an afternoon wandering around the modern art gallery. They had a Dali exhibit which was alright - I liked this video - but in general the museum wasn't quite as goood as their hot chocolate.

Stockholm only gets a few fleeting hours of sunlight a day, generally it is pitch dark by 4pm ... and it got chillier everyday I was there. So there aren't too many outdoor photos.


sweden 210







sweden 361




sweden 405



Back indoors I brought a little Korea to the Swedes. Gonggi is an ancient and popular Korean children's game that all my kids play between and during classes. I brought over a set for each of the boys. It was a hit. The wolves make it look so easy ... me and the blondes soon learned it wasn't.


On New Year's Eve we headed over to Oscar and Ailyn's for dinner. Oscar is pretty much allergic to the world which isn't such a terrible thing when you come over for dinner because he'll make you 3 kinds of meats (chorizo, steak, and chicken), loads of gravy, salad with healthy amounts of avocado, and then for dessert you get Marängsviss.



After dinner we returned to the city all the while sipping on mini bottles of Jägermeister which we proceeded to lovingly place at special locations along the way ...

Eventually we found ourselves at one of her favourite places. It was a beautiful bar, filled with beautiful people, and decadent cocktails. I felt a little shy about bringing the camera out ... which in retrospect was ridiculous because despite all its beauty, most of the beautiful people in the bar looked so bored ... but not us. I couldn't stop smiling. We giggled in our chairs and drank our drinks and when midnight came around we were standing on those chairs and we kissed, and it was wonderful.

And just like that it was almost time for me to go... but first .... more food ....


I am Canadian.
I can build a fire.
I am quite proud of this.

Me: We should make smores and drink glögg.
Linus: Smores?
Me: Right. We need to buy marshmellows immediately.
So we made smores ... Gingerbread, with dark mint chocolate smores.




They were delicious .. and then it was time to go.
Puss puss.
Ps. Mary Flynn - I'm sorry I went without you. Next time?

I watched

I watched THIS and it's giving me ideas ....

Should I stay or should I go? On making Korea a home or just staying for a year

While I have no hard facts or data, it would seem that I'm running into more and more expats / foreigners who have made Korea their home. Long after their first one-year contract has finished, they're still here making a life for themselves as a teacher, a college professor, a student, a writer / reporter / journalist, or the all-important-sounding title of businessperson. While few of us knowingly start our Korea journey thinking we'll stick around for a second (or third or fourth or ninth) year, here we are.

Some expats come to Korea with a specific plan - 'I'll work here for a year then apply for a teaching job back in the states' is one I've recently heard. 'I want to work as an ambassador or in an embassy, so I need a couple years of experience living abroad' is another. Others come with no plan at all - 'I just graduated college / university and I have no idea what to do next, so maybe Korea will help me discover My Life Plan'©, or 'I came to Korea to find myself'. Plans change, however, as does the situation you might find yourself in when / if you return home.

Thanks to an economic downturn in most countries English teachers come from, there is that fear of what you'll do if you return home. There are plenty of ways to tell a story about your time in Korea - presuming of course you didn't drink and chase women your entire time here. You learn a lot while in Korea: self-reliance, ability to think on your feet, ability to understand (or at least tolerate) a foreign culture, and perhaps a new language or skill that will go great on a resume. With that said, you still have to convince an employer that your experience in Korea will help you (and them!) in the position they have available.

Most expats find themselves looking at several choices:

A: Keep going as an English teacher in Korea, whether at the same school or a different one.

B: Move to another country to teach English - whether your home country or a completely new country.

C: Go back to school - getting a Master's degree, a teaching English course, or even a second Bachelor's degree

D: Move back home and bum off of your parents or friends until a job comes along.

E: Find a non-teaching job in Korea

So which is best? That's up to you - I'm not your mom. More than a few people have taken a break from life in Korea, gone home, and actually missed things in the Hermit Kingdom after awhile. Others leave and never look back, thankful to never see another dish of kimchi.

The key to consider is purpose. Why did you come to Korea originally? The money? The food? The international experience? The resume-enhancing benefits? The Korean girls / boys? Whatever your reason was, consider whether you've achieved it or enjoyed it. What purpose will staying - or moving on - serve?

If you stay in Korea:
  • Consider how you want to grow or advance. Do you want to keep teaching kindergarten for the same wage, or do you want to move up the pay scale? Getting a teacher's certification is often worth the time and money required to get the piece of paper.
  • Make the country your home - now might be the time to invest in guitar lessons / Korean lessons / Korean cooking class - whatever it takes to make it feel more like home.
  • Get involved with the expat communities - whether it's the Hash House Harriers, Roboseyo's 2S2, or Stitch 'N' Bitch, there's more than enough communities out there.
If you decide to leave:
  • Get all the loose ends tied up - get paid, get your severance pay / pension reimbursement back, close your bank accounts, pay the bills, get your deposit back from the school / apartment, and so on. You should be returning home with more money than you first came with.
  • Have a going away party - that goes double if you've built up a lot of friends and have some time to plan something. Maybe your favorite bar can make a special or something. Don't just show up one day and disappear the next.
  • Keep up-to-date with your friends in Korea via Facebook / Myspace / Cyworld - it's done far more easily these days than in years past.
  • Have some idea of what's next. Flying back into your home city / country with little more than two suitcases and a carry-on is almost no one's idea of a life well-spent.
One excellent resource to considering one's purpose is the revered What Color Is Your Parachute? by Richard Nelson Bolles. While the book is geared towards career changes, in a sense that's exactly the decision you have to make.

Creative Commons License Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

Article for Groove Magazine: On community (published Jan 2010)

As of the time I post this, Groove Magazine's website hasn't yet been updated with the newest issue. Pick up the paper copy at your friendly Hongdae / Itaewon bar, or just wait until you see it online.

On community

2010 holds more opportunities than ever to become part of a community, and there's plenty of choose from. It's time to
really get to know people - going beyond polite conversations on where you're from or how long you've been here. It means getting out of your comfort zone instead of just going to the same bar, the same trivia night, or the same three parks. That more foreign teachers are calling Korea home for longer than usual (thank you, global recession) means they're less likely to say goodbye right after you meet them. It also means they're more likely to help out when crap hits the fan and you need a friend.

So why isn't there a better / stronger community of foreigners here in Korea? It might just be what I'll call the 'Superman attitude'. When you first got off the plane in Korea, you learned how to deal with things for yourself because you didn't have anyone to turn to - things like a tiny apartment. A washing machine entirely in Korean. How to work the air conditioner or heater. Where to get groceries. After awhile, you figured out how things work here and gained some self-confidence. You might have said to yourself 'I can do it all', 'I can take care of myself', or 'I don't need to be a part of a community'. Put simply, it's counterproductive and somewhat pointless. Just because you've put up with the hand Korea has dealt you doesn't mean anyone else needs to. What's to lose by sharing what you know with those who might benefit from it?

Take it from science if you like. Several studies have shown people that belong to a community - no matter the kind - have fewer health problems,
commit suicide less often, and tend to be more satisfied with their lives. One study (Beem, C. (1999) The Necessity of Politics. Reclaiming American public life, Chicago: University of Chicago Press) equates one's social connections as a predictor for one's life span, similar in accuracy to getting married or affluence. The study suggests the same health benefits come from quitting smoking as joining a community of some kind. Abraham Maslow (of the famous Maslow's hierarchy you might have learned about in Psych 101) listed social groups on the third tier - a pre-requisite to reaching the esteem and self-actualization levels. In other words, you can't achieve levels of happiness or self-actualization without having other people in your life.

It's very true that teachers have different schedules, locations across the country, needs, interests, lifestyles, jobs, native cultures, different visa categories. No matter what differences you may have, the nice thing about communities is that they start with sharing a common interest or goal. It doesn't have to be a huge community - few of the expat-focused ones are - so
start with what interests you and build from there.

Great - so where do I find these communities?, you ask. There isn't any one place to find them all, but you can learn about quite a few in the back of the magazine - quite a few have an advertisement in the classifieds. Matt Lamers of the Korea Herald has put together an extensive list of communities based on common interests or populations. If you've been looking for a community to join, anything from the Cigar Aficionado Society to ice hockey to touch rugby to the Czech Club is available in Seoul. Playing in a dart league may not interest you, but the Seoul Hiking Club might. You may not be interested in joining an Ultimate Frisbee team, so take some photography lessons instead. Other areas of the country have expat-focused groups as well, especially in the larger cities of Busan, Daegu, and Daejeon. In smaller cities, you can always start one of your own.

While they lack the same kind of connection, getting involved in online communities is another way of staying in contact with friends and family - whether in Korea or your home country. Facebook and Myspace are the two undisputed champions, although Cyworld is a great place to make some Korean friends if you can navigate their website. One you probably haven't heard of yet is Chatjip (www.chatjip.com) - aggregating news, opinions, and pictures from all over the web in an effort to be a one-stop-shop for all things Korea. Whatever one works best for you, use them to connect with other groups or like-minded people during your time in Korea - and to keep in touch after you move elsewhere.

A few communities based around a common interest worth checking out:

2S2 - founded by the popular blogger Roboseyo, 2S2 meets on the second Sunday of every month to do something different. The last couple meetings took the group to see the snowboarding festival in Gwanghwamun and taught the group how to play Go-Stop over lots of conversation. Check out http://2s2community.blogspot.com/ for more information.

Animal Rescue Korea - adopt an animal, animal-sit, get to know other animal lovers, or help raise funds to care for lonely animals. Lookup www.animalrescuekorea.org for more.

Adventure Korea - if your excuse for not traveling around Korea has been not going where to go, this community does plenty of trips across Korea while taking care of all the transportation details. The people you'll meet are fellow travelers - and the trips can take you almost anywhere Korea has to offer. Check out www.adventurekorea.com for a list of upcoming trips.

Swing, salsa, and tango dance - you won't find the same people at each studio or dance floor, but pick one (or more!) and find some lessons to learn. If you already know the basics, there are plenty of clubs that specialize in each kind across the country. They're scattered across the city, but a tango and a swing place are within walking distance of Sinsa station. http://swingkorea.blogspot.com keeps maps and directions for all the swing dance clubs around Seoul; for salsa and tango, do a little online searching to find one closer to you.

Seoul Improv - flexing those theatrical muscles doesn't need to happen before a crowd of thousands. While the troupe performs occasionally, practices can be just as much fun. Contact [email protected] for more information. Whatever community or groups you join, I wish you a Happy New Year, plenty of friends, and a great community.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

Destination: Jeju, part 3

Picking up from part 1 and part 2 of the Jeju Christmas trip with Adventure Korea - now time for part 3 (Dec 27 2009).

Although it's the final day of the trip, the third day around Jeju offered as much to see as the rest of the weekend. Breakfast in our hotel, then we loaded the bus and headed to Hallim Park (한림공원):



One of the first sights on the tour route was a greenhouse filled with cacti. Lots of species of cacti are represented quite nicely, although the greenhouse was no warmer than the outside.



Yes, it's December. Yes, those are palm trees - and quite a few varieties of them. Yes, it's cold. But they're surprisingly hardy trees - none of them seemed to be suffering in the cold. First planted in 1971 by founder Bong-gyu Song, a few faded pictures scattered across the park show the owner planting the young trees.



The entrance to one of Jeju's lava caves - while there are several around the island, the two you'll see as part of this park are Hyeopjae cave (협재굴) and Ssangyong cave (쌍용굴). A number of stalactites and stalagmites are present within the cave, which are supposedly very rare in caves such as these.



The walkway is tourist-friendly, though it's clear there's more to the cave than is open to the public. Scientific research and environmental protection are the justifications - besides, there's plenty of cave that's opened to the public.

After a brief excursion to ground level, we entered Ssangyong cave - formed by an eruption of Hallsan about 2,500,000 years, Ssangyong is supposedly the only place in the world where a lava cave and a limestone cave are joined together.



That's frozen lava right there - it makes up much of the inside walls.



Seeing shapes in the rock is something worth putting up signs and highlighting. This time, the light shines on the 'spine' and 'scales' of a dragon, as though it's hiding in the cave.



A more artificial statue highlighting the legend of Dr. Jin. After escaping into a cave during a shower, Jin met a girl inside the cave and played with her. After awhile, he was told by his teacher to swallow a bead discovered the girl was a disguised old fox, and was saved by another man. Since swallowing the bead, he was able to see everything about the human body and became a renowned doctor. The statue is of Jin swallowing the bead. Definitely an odd story, and I'm not quite sure what the point except perhaps to listen to your teacher...?

The next area was a stone and bonsai garden:



Quite a few trees were more than a century old, and have obviously been maintained throughout the years. There's not a lot of information about who's been doing the maintaining; whomever it was, they did a great job.



Some interesting stones - when magma from Hallsan covered the trees, the trees were burned out and several holes were made under the hardened magma / lava. Look carefully for evidence they were once trees - a pine cone can still be seen in one of the exhibits.

After walking around the loop, a souvenir shop awaits; before that rests a white peacock (백공작):



After going through the souvenir shop (the only way to move on), we found ourselves in the Jae-am Folk Village:



An example of the traditional thatched houses once found in Jeju's rural areas. It's quite nice to note the volcanic rock seen everywhere, and the contrast between the rock and straw.

Although there was more to see in the park, we had to get back to the tour bus (yes, taking pictures and reading signs does tend to slow me down - sorry) and get on the road to our next stop - Jusangjeollidae, or one of Jeju's cliffs:



A seemingly random display of dolphins - no indications that any real dolphins have been in this area...



The observation deck is the highlight - looking out from here allows some beautiful views, even in the winter:






The sign nearby gives a geological lesson: the hexagonal patterns were formed by cracks in basaltic lava (it contracts as it cools). A great contrast to the lava rock patterns right next to it. Walk around the rest of the park if you like, but there are few views better than those from the observation deck.

Our last stop was the controversial and famous Loveland - an intriguing display of the human forms and sexuality. I created a separate post for that since it's NSFW (not safe for work) - consider yourself warned.

After making our way back to the bus, we rode the Mysterious Road - a natural optical illusion. You appear to be going uphill, but in reality you're riding downhill. No pictures, and there's not really a lot to see when riding on a bus.

Back to the airport and back to Seoul - the more we visited and explored around Jeju, the more there was to see. Going on a guided tour instead of doing it yourself has its good points and bad points - in three days we got to see more of Jeju than we could have seen on our own in a week, although we did feel rushed in some places.

As a whole, the Adventure Korea trip was well-planned, well-managed, and well-executed. Arrangements were as expected, and I had no problems asking questions or getting information from our fearless leaders. They come highly recommended by this traveler. Check out their future trips at www.adventurekorea.com.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

Destination: Loveland (Jeju) (NSFW)

WARNING: This post is rated NSFW (Not Safe For Work) and for adults only - if on a work computer or around kids, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE hit the 'back' button on your browser before scrolling down. If you're not around kids and are comfortable with seeing anatomically correct statues in various, er, adult positions, then continue on. You have been warned.



If Loveland isn't the most controversial tourist destination in Korea (the Demilitarized Zone, or DMZ, being the only other possibility worth mentioning), I'm not sure what is. Plant what amounts to a sex park on the largest island of a traditionally conservative country and see what kind of reaction you get.

Having a sex park on Jeju actually does a bit of sense after a history lesson. Jeju-do (Jeju island) has served as a honeymoon destination for Koreans since the Korean War. Some marriages were arranged by parents, meaning there was a bit of awkwardness of trying to bed this new spouse they may have just met. Also, Koreans weren't allowed to leave the country until the early 1990's meant 'getting away' was going to Jeju instead of Thailand. According to Wikipedia and Der Speigel, some hotel employees served as 'professional icebreakers' (read: marriage consummation helpers) while hotels offered 'entertainment packages' to help couples relax and, um, get things started.

First planned in 2002 and opened in November of 2004, 20 Hongik University students contributed sculptures and other artwork to the site in an effort to celebrate sex and the human form. While most pieces certainly qualify as art, remember the entire park is about sex. If it's any consolation, admission is limited to those 19 years of age or older; kids or the underaged have an inoffensive play area to enjoy while the adults go sightseeing.

This is your final warning - if kids are around or you're uncomfortable with seeing the human form displayed a frank fashion, click your 'back' button or go here to Google something else.



One of the more unusual displays introduces itself shortly after arriving. Note the door handles.



Entitled 욕망 (Desire); most sculptures have stood (or arched their back) through all four of Korea's distinct seasons, and didn't show any wear or tear. Unfortunately, most descriptions are in Korean, but they're not really needed. You get the idea.



A souvenir store early on in the park - a little disappointing that they sold little of 'racy' value.



Entitled 하이힐 (High Heel) - I'm rather surprised I didn't see anyone posing with (or on!) the statues.



Turn the handle and watch the... er... motion in the ocean.



Entitled 저 오늘 한가해요 (I'm not busy).



I didn't get this one at first... but then again, I'm a guy - I don't finger myself too often.



One of the few (mostly) safe-for-work photos I was able to take. Just ignore the phallic symbol in the background and it's cool.



Entitled 미녀삼총사 (The Three Musketeers of A Beauty), these three ladies were sitting on the top of the next building looking down at the crowd. Must be cold up there...



Collections of toys greeted you, along with the introductions (Korean only) to them. More than a few Korean ajummas seemed puzzled when passing by these devices, as if pleasuring yourself was somehow dirty or wrong.



Some toys needed no introduction, however...



The same ajummas seen puzzled by the vibrators were quite animated over these phallic symbols. Why? Who knows...



While not quite a perfect substitute for a Hustler store in the U.S., it's one of only a handful of stores I've seen selling sex-related products in South Korea.



Quite a large selection - bring your adventurous partner and have some fun.

We headed up to the second floor, where a number of displays awaited us:



So that's why the girls always win in pool... Other displays included couples fornicating in different rooms of the house and an after-dinner party that seemed straight out of an American anti-sexual-harassment video (not pictured).



Entitled 일본인의 사랑 (Love - Japan). Also displayed were cultural, er, positions from Africa, India, and Greece:



Entitled 그리스인의 사랑 (Love - Greek).



Entitled 밭갈고 씨뿌리고 (Masquerade) - probably not an impossible, er, position if you're, um, talented...



Gotta love the muscle definition on the male figure.



To have something like this on the streets of Seoul would definitely turn some heads...



Entitled 샤워후의 두려움 (After taking a bath), this was one of a few different sculptures featured a very skinny man attempting to get away from the obese woman. Supposedly this has something to do with an ajumma trying to fill her voracious appetite, trying to pull her ajosshi husband back to her.



A couple (but only a couple) were on the more abstract side - interesting, and by this point figuring out what was what wasn't too difficult.



Ladies and gentlemen, you're a smart crowd. I won't offend your intelligence by explaining what pedaling this device may accomplish. I would say that it is outdoors, and probably not clean...

While Loveland is certainly not like the rest of Korea (Gangwon-do's Penis Park in Samcheok being a rare exception), it's highly recommended and worth a visit if planning a trip to Jeju. Few of the Koreans I saw seemed shocked by the encounter - presumably you know what the place is about being setting out on the trip to get here. Come with an open-mind, an adventuresome partner, and a willingness to experience art; two out of three isn't bad either.

Directions to Loveland: Loveland is located 10 minutes from Jeju International Airport - a taxi will be the fastest and easiest option. If part of a group tour, let the bus driver get there. Taking a local bus is also an option - from Jeju's airport, walk 200 meters to the Daho Village (near Goryeo Gas Station), then take bus 38 or 887 to Halla Hospital. Transfer to bus 1100, and get off at the Livestock Farming Complex. Like I said, take a taxi.

If driving, type in 680-26 Yeon-dong, Jeju-si, Jeju-do into your GPS device. If lost, call +82-064-712-6988, or see the English langugage website if you need a road map.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:


Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

3.15 Cemetery

1 Nov 2009, Wanting to explore more of Masan in the cool fall weather, I wander into northern Masan to visit the 3.15 National Cemetery, commemorating those who faught for democratic freedom in 1960 Masan.

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