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Potter

After my wife became pregnant, she joined the Busan Momsholic. Momsholic Baby is a national club in Korea which was set up for both pregnant women and mothers. They provide an online community as well as a number of off-line opportunities to meet and participate in activities. Recently some of the expectant members, along with their partners, signed up on a first-come-first-served basis to a one-off pottery class and my wife and I went along at a cost of 10,000 won per couple.


The class was being held at the Nature Ceramic Studio in the Haeundae district of Busan, which is high up on a hill with some rather attractive views of the sea, near a large restaurant curiously entitled Tom's Dinner (sic). The Studio regularly hosts classes in various rooms, but perhaps because it was a Sunday we were able to work in the main gallery which forms the store front.


A photographer was in attendance and while he snapped away he told us that the previous group had been very serious and we should try and have fun. That proved to be easier said than done; with most of us operating beyond our comfort zone even with the guidance provided by the teacher, it seemed to be an activity requiring all our concentration. So I think he'll be telling the same story to the next group.


The plan for today's class was to create oil burners. My wife and I decided to fashion a house of sorts, with the roof serving as the oil reservoir. Gradually, this evolved - more by accident than design - into two houses, one with a vaguely Mediterranean feel I suppose. The other, by virtue of it being much smaller and more haphazard in construction and finished design, looked suspiciously like the kind of Korean house you can still sometimes find deep in the countryside. This wasn't lost on the other people present - 'ah, that looks just like a Korean house' they said 'you've developed a fusion design!' Fusion is anything here that mixes Korean with anything non-Korean - from fusion food to our 'fusion' baby. I wasn't really comfortable with the outcome - the 'Korean-style' house looked so ramshackle and inferior to the one below it that it ran the risk of not being so much a fusion as an editorial comment. Anyway, we won't give up our day jobs.


In the end, I don't think any of the couples had much of a chance to socialise, so if that was the intention it probably wasn't successful. But since it is perceived that the process of artistic creation is 'good for the baby', it presumably served its purpose.

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Time to Evolve - Again

My first entry on this blog is dated July 20th, 2006. That was a couple of days before I arrived in the land of morning motorway congestion. At the time I can remember I was wondering how long it would last. The original aim was to keep people back home informed without having to send emails, and also to serve as a more permanent online record of this part of my life. Also I was greatly inspired by a blog called the Korea Life Blog, which I appreciated for its matter-of-fact glimpse of life in Korea for the average person.

Overall I'm fairly happy that I've kept my blog going this long, and I sometimes flick back with a glass of wine when I'm in a nostalgic mood. Apart from friends and family who read it, most of my traffic comes through Google searches by people wanting to read about Korea.

I saw a TED talk today by Gary Vaynerchuck and he suggested that whatever we do online now is likely to stay around for countless generations of our descendants to read. With the plummeting price of data storage, I think that's entirely likely.
So I think I'm going to expand the scope of my humble little blog into a blend of life in Korea, as well as other things and thoughts that I come across. Hopefully it'll become a more colourful record of life in general, instead of specifically Korea-related things.


My Dad thinks my blog is great, so that's encouraging. But then again he thinks lots of things are great, including earthworms. He's a philosopher and is currently writing a paper for publication called A New, Objective, Pro-Objectivity Normative Theory. It's too verbose for my synapses to comprehend. Once he publishes it, you can all read it online for free. Now see, that little piece of information right there is something that wouldn't have been posted on the Old Lee's Korea Blog, because it doesn't pertain to life in Korea. But in LKB Ver 2.1, you'll be hearing about all sorts of things. For better or worse.

At least I know Dad will be reading it...

Busan, Gwangan - KA (Kwang An) Sporex


Recently, a friend of mine told me his parents own a jjimjilbang near Gwangan. We got to talking about it and I decided I ought to check it out for you. I mean, I have a list of places I need to visit, but he is my friend after all, and I wanted to see what kind of place it was.



Here's how to get there: As you exit Gwangan subway station take exit 2. On your left immediately out of the exit you'll see a large Busan band - turn left around the bank and walk straight up that hill. After you pass the Top Mart (on your right ~5 minutes from the subway) you'll see the KA Sporex on the left.


So last Sunday I headed out to see KA Sporex. Firstly, my internet searches revealed inconsistencies. The Daum local listing only categorizes this place as a sauna or mok-yok-tang, not a jjimjilbang, though a search on Naver maps will show it as a jjimjilbang. Likewise, the reviews, ratings, and few photos visible on Naver cannot be found from Daum. Despite this trouble, the KA Sporex website includes some English words to help you navigate the site and shows many photos of the rooms and facilities.


My friend had said his place was a jjimjilbang so I trusted him. Sure enough, I was handed the little brown spa clothes when I asked for them. At only 5,000 won, this is a pretty cheap jjimjilbang (7,000 overnight). 

From the locker room through the sauna everything is pretty typical. A couple special bits- shown below- are the individual tubs similar to what you might find in your house back in the West and the nicely designed hot rooms found at the back of the sauna. There are 3 small, shallow event baths which feature different herbal treatments to the water, massage tubs, and an ice bath, in addition to the usual hot tubs and showers.


Up in the jjimjilbang (3F) you'll notice it's remarkably dark. Could be a bad thing, but I thought it was nice on a lazy Sunday afternoon. If your thing is reading or studying you'll want to go up one more floor to the 4F "hyu-gae-sil" or resting area (휴게실). On this floor you can find the restaurant & snack corner, PC room, book stacks, massage, skin clinic & nail art, movie room, and sleeping rooms.


Back on the 3F jjimjilbang each room has a small window to let in a small amount of light but, like I said, don't expect to be able to read the newspaper in there! On the upside there are multiple rooms at a comfortable temperature - combined with the darkness it's the perfect place for a nap. A couple special rooms made my day: The forest room (산림욕방) which has fragrant woods lining the walls and fresh woodsy air and a similar pine room (소나무방). Sporex also offers a super-hot bulgama (fire) room, rooms with salt/charcoal, gold, yellow soil, an ice room, and two beautifully decorated stone rooms (보석방- jewelry, 마노방- agate). Best thing? The small TVs in some rooms are placed where you can easily change the program or switch them off if you want peace and quiet.





In addition to all this, KA Sporex has recently developed their 6th floor to house a health club, yoga studio and a dance/aerobics room. My friend told me that his parents felt it was important to focus on the fitness aspect of the spa in order to compete with other saunas in the area. Just from the looks of the membership packages and yoga schedule (4 classes a day weekdays & 2 on Saturday?!) I can see they're taking it seriously.




부산시 수영구 광안4동 733-23
Busan, Suyeong-gu, Gwangan 4-dong 733-23
051-761-0099


RATES:
Enter from 7am-8pm
Sauna: Adults 4,000 Children 3,000
Sauna & Jjimjil: Adults 5,000 Children 4,000


Enter from 8pm-7am
Sauna & Jjimjil: Adults 7,000 Children 6,000


Wikimapia of KA Sporex

Korean Gender Reader, March 22 2010: Abortion Republic No More?

( Alice Park es Gogo by Tetsumo )

Yes, after a long hiatus, I’m starting up this series again, and this time hopefully for good!

For new readers unfamiliar with it, basically this means that for your convenience and interest, each Monday I’ll be providing summaries of the biggest Korean gender-related stories of the week before, with a few related and/or interesting ones from overseas also, especially Northeast Asia. But I may sometimes miss some though, so I’ll still always be grateful if you could pass any on that you come across, either just by writing a comment on any post, or via email, Twitter, or Facebook.

With dire long-term implications however, the first story required rather more than a simple summary:

1) Abortion Republic No More?

Starting late last year, but suddenly getting a lot of attention in the international media, the Lee Myung-bak administration has decided to start enforcing Korea’s abortion laws, basically for the first time since they were enacted in 1953. But while the news that the Korean government is actually enforcing its own laws might usually be cause for celebration, unfortunately its abortion laws are amongst the most restrictive in the world, only allowing it in the case of heredity diseases, incest, rape, and/or danger to the mother’s health.

( Source: Chicago Tribune )

For an excellent overview of the topic, with many links to various English-language stories, see Robert Neff’s post at The Marmot’s Hole; assuming that you’ve read that, here I’d like to highlight some of the few points not covered in it, starting with some statistics on whom exactly is getting abortions and why. From the Hankyoreh:

According to the data released by the Ministry of Health, Welfare and Family Affairs (MHWFA) yesterday, the reasons why married women, who make up 58 percent of the women who have undergone abortion procedures, chose to have abortions are because they do not want children (70 percent) and financial difficulties (17.5 percent). In the case of unmarried women, 93.7 percent said they underwent an abortion procedure because they were not married. They are saying that having children is difficult because of child-rearing and economic burdens in the case of married women, and because of social prejudice and financial difficulties in the case of unmarried women.

A second point is while that data came from the MHWFA on March 3, it actually lost its jurisdiction over family affairs on the 19th, which have returned to the Ministry of Gender Equality (now Ministry of Gender Equality and Family Affairs, or MOGEF). Coming with a big increase in staff and 4 times larger budget (albeit from a base of 0.03%(!) of the government total), and partially dealing with problems of overlapping responsibilities with other ministries, again ostensibly this is good news. But also strange; after all, according to The Korea Times:

As a candidate, President Lee Myung-bak promised to expand the Ministry of Gender Equality, but his transition committee ― led by a woman ― first attempted to abolish the ministry and, faced with fierce opposition from feminists, backed down to sharply downsizing it. Equally problematic was Lee’s choice for its top post, a food and nutrition expert who had no experience at all in the female rights movement, under the excuse of “globalizing Korean food.”

( F.A.T.E. by The Dream Seeker )

See here and here for more details. Why this is important is because almost every report I’ve read on this subject has directly or implicitly linked the “abortion crackdown” to Lee Myung-bak’s special taskforce of November 2009, charged with finding a means to improve Korea’s birthrate, one of the lowest in the world. And given the above history, and how disastrous his administration has been for Korean women as a whole, then in my opinion quite correctly too, although to be fair, this link has been denied by the government. From The Chicago Tribune:

“Our plan against illegal abortions is entirely separate from our low birthrate countermeasures,” said Rhee Won-hee, chief of the health ministry’s Family Support Division. “The comprehensive plan is to fight rampant disrespect for the sanctity of life.”

Nevertheless, as it was the MHWFA that was responsible for implementing the crackdown, even setting up a hotline to report on law-breaking doctors or pregnant women, and – as far as I am aware – it is these responsibilities that MOGEF has just taken on, then it remains to be seen what genuinely useful initiatives MOGEF will be implementing to help raise the birthrate other than clamping down on abortions. After all, recall that this is the same ministry that paid men not to have sex with prostitutes, and that will be continuing the MHWFA policy of letting them go home early every third Wednesday so that they might, well, fuck their wives, neither of which, to identify a recurring theme, really deal with the fundamentals of why Korean women are having so few children.

Unfortunately, this also proves to be the case for its “purple-job system” of encouraging flexitime for women and men: again ostensibly commendable, and sorely needed with a workplace culture that uselessly confines people to the office until late in the evening, but all essentially useless when a record number of Korean women have lost their jobs in the last year (see below), and they’re still fired for getting pregnant. Perhaps the money might be better spent in conjunction with the Ministry of Labor in ensuring that companies are prosecuted for doing so?

( Source: I Believe in Advertising; adapted from Grazia advertisement )

Third, there are the motivations of the various interest groups themselves, in particular those of the Korean Gynecological Physicians’ Association (GYNOB; 진오비), a new group of 600-700 obstetricians that has sought forgiveness from the public for performing abortions in the past, probably not coincidentally receiving a great deal of media attention at about the same time that Lee Myung-bak’s taskforce was formed. While the New York Times at least emphasizes the religious affiliations of the group, and points out that it doesn’t have the support of the 4000 member Korean Association of Obstetricians and Gynecologists (대한산부인과학회), I suspect that simple corporatist interests will soon increase its support among them, as according to The Korea Herald:

Obstetrical and gynecological clinics in Korea have long struggled from old issues such as low medical fees, ceaseless legal conflicts and a shortage of specialists.

Under the system, most private clinics have given up risk-bearing delivery services. But practicing cheaper gynecological treatment does not make a profit. As a result, a growing number of specialists do abortions or turn to other more favorable departments such as dermatology and plastic surgery.

And indeed the report then makes an explicit, corporatist link:

Young doctors started sensing that they could be the nation’s last generation of gynecologists, resulting in the establishment of GYNOB…

Presumably the idea being that gynecologists and obstetricians did not enter the field simply to perform abortions. Lest the argument that they’re simply looking out for their jobs sound cynical on my part however, consider how last year the Korean Medical Association (대한의사협회) started blatantly scaremongering about the contraceptive pill, despite the fact that already surprisingly low numbers of Korean women use the pill (in no small part due to previous scaremongering), and that it is widely acknowledged (outside of Japan at least) that Japanese gynecologists and obstetricians, for instance, deliberately blocked the introduction of the pill there for over 30 years in order to maintain their own extensive abortion industry. Granted, the KMA is not GYNOB, but it would be interesting to see who exactly in the KMA was responsible for that (needless to say, perhaps some are members of GYNOB?), and to hear alternative explanations for the KMA’s sudden concern.

Meanwhile, the corporatist interests of the Korean state are clear. As Sara Mendkedick at Change.org puts it:

Abortion shouldn’t be the only, desperate choice of women whose voices are silenced by their society, and it shouldn’t be used as a form of population control by the government. It should be one option for women who have the power, education, and awareness to make informed decisions. Unfortunately, it seems South Korea still sees abortion as one more issue for men to deal with, one more choice they make when and how they feel like it.

And for the best source on the history of Korea’s population control policies, almost as draconian as China’s “One Child Policy”, see Militarized Modernity and Gendered Citizenship in South Korea (2005) by Seungsook Moon (see here for a review; source right: Japan Focus), a good illustration of the zealousness of which is the fact that the Marine Corps was mobilized to perform IUD insertions and vasectomies on isolated islanders in the late-1970s (p.84). Moreover:

In the second half of the 1970s, female sterilization was introduced and aggressively applied to fertile women in the form of free one-shot surgical sterilization. Necessary postsurgical care was often ignored. The practice of female sterilization reached its peak in 1979 and then decreased. Perceiving this decrease as a crisis, the state accelerated its sterilization campaign in the 1980s, into what can only be described as sterilization mania. Between 1982 and 1983, 2 million women were sterilized, making up 58% of the total cases of sterilization during the past 25 years. Statistics in 1988 indicated that 48% of all fertile married women were sterilized. Sterilized women also made up 63% of all female contraceptive users. In addition, 83% of these women had been sterilized for free by the state’s agencies, operating primarily in the form of mobile services. The semiforced mass sterilization led to abrupt reductions in the fertility rate and the rate of population growth in the 1980s. According to official statistics, the average number of children an adult woman would bear during her lifetime dropped from 6.3 in the early-1960s to 1.6 in 1988. (pp. 84-85)

Needless to say, I find it appalling that the government of a now supposedly developed, democratic society is applying the mindset of a military dictatorship to population control, and personally this is the straw that broke that broke the camel’s back as far my opinion of the Lee Myung-bak Administration, albeit something I should have expected from someone that saw fit to offer Seoul to God. Seriously, are poor Korean women going to be forced to go overseas or use backstreet abortionists from now on? In 2010?

I’d welcome suggestions as to what us, presumably mostly non-Koreans, can do about this. At the very least, I’ll be following developments closely here, and it’s not all doom and gloom: women’s groups are protesting, albeit at the moment in surprisingly low numbers. Meanwhile, for those of you further interested in the pervasive militarization of daily life in Korea that this policy is a manifestation of, then please consider my Gender and Militarization series (and which I finally have Part 4 tentatively scheduled to appear on Thursday the 8th of April!), and I also recommend this post by Korea Beat on avoiding compulsory military service, which he and I both think is an anachronism.

( Source: ROK SPOONFUL )

And now, in no particular order, the remainder of last week’s stories…but starting with some good news for a change:

2) Pregnant teenager allowed to graduate from high school

As the Joongang Ilbo reported:

The National Human Rights Commission said yesterday that any school that forces a student to drop out because she is pregnant is being discriminatory and infringing on her right to an education.

The announcement follows the case of Kim Su-hyeon, 19, a teenager who was forced to drop out during her senior year of high school last year because of a pregnancy.

Though many Western countries allow pregnant high school students to complete their educations, Kim’s case is the first of its kind in Korea to be decided by the commission.

Kim agreed to reveal her real name to the JoongAng Ilbo, commenting that she hoped her case would help other teenage mothers who have been forced to end their studies.

See Gusts of Popular Feeling for an overview and the wider context, and ROK Drop also has a brief comments thread in which comparisons to the US are made.

3) Korea to abolish adultery law

Self-explanatory (but good!), much more interesting is some additional information on the abortion issue that I’ve just noticed in the report from The Chosun Ilbo:

The committee is also reportedly discussing permitting abortions, which remain illegal in Korea. “We have not reached any conclusions since it is a very controversial issue,” a committee member said. “But discussions are under way allowing abortions if they are conducted before a certain period of pregnancy and clamping down on those that take place after that phase as seen in advanced countries.”

Hear hear!

4) New shows bring gay love to prime time

Long taboo on Korean television, this month not one but two dramas deal with homosexual relationships: Personal Taste (개인의 취향; also known as Personal Preference) and Life is Beautiful (인생은아름다워). See the JoongAng Daily for an overview, and Dramabeans at the above links for the details.

(Yes, I realize that that’s actually a man and woman on the right: as it turns out, Lee Min-ho (이민호) just pretends to be gay in order to room with Son Ye-jin (손예진) in Personal Preference)

5) G-Dragon Not Guilty

See SeoulBeats for the details, and here for the background.

6) Cambodian Government Temporarily Bans Marriage Between Cambodians and Koreans

Big news of course, but somewhat inevitable considering the treatment many Cambodian women receive in Korea, and hopefully this will prompt both countries to take a closer look at their mutual international marriage industry.

For an overview see The Marmot’s Hole and The Hub of Sparkle, and between them they link to an article at the Deutsche Press-Agentur and another at The Korea Herald that appears to have been written (but not published) just before the ban, which ironically claimed that most migrant women were happy with their marriages! To those I can now add this report from the JoongAng Daily, and an editorial from the (rather embarrassed?) Korea Herald.

7) Plastic surgery clinic accused of violating patients’ privacy

A woman in her 20s who lives in Gwangju has asked police to prosecute a plastic surgery clinic and its owner for placing on the Internet, without her consent, before-and-after photographs of her plastic surgery.

Read the rest at Korea Beat.

8) Sex offenders banned from entering country

And those already in the country will be immediately deported. Not that I’m necessarily against the ends, although using retroactive legislation as the means does seem problematic, as in the case of MOGEF working to make sex-offenders’ details available on the internet also.

Update: Robert Koehler and Brian in Jeollanam-do have more information on the former case here and here.

9) Korean 28 year-old jockey commits suicide

But perhaps a silver lining is provided by the light her death has shone on the harsh practices of the Korean racing industry, the second by a (rare) female jockey at Busan racecourse? See The Korea Times for details, and some additional analysis is provided by Roboseyo and Aaron Bruckhart (source right: Korea Times).

10) Crime

MOGEF’s plans in #8 are undoubtedly in response to the case of alleged rapist and murderer Kim Gil-tae (김길태), over whom there is a great deal of public anger directed towards the government because he was a convicted sex-offender but whose privacy is protected by current legislation. Further details that have emerged in that case since my last post on it are that he claims to have been too drunk to remember his crimes, and that some netizens opened a “cafe” in support of  him before that confession, albeit more in a “groupie” sense than in a genuine belief that he was innocent.

Meanwhile, singer and radio host Kim Beum-soo (김범수) is under fire for shock-jock comments about his stalking of women while he was a student, rather tasteless and alarming even without the above case, and the Hankyoreh accuses the ruling Grand National Party of exploiting the Kim Gil-tae to create a  “climate of fear” to “enact hardline measures”.

And in other crime news:

…two soccer players of Kyunggi University in Suwon, Gyeonggi Province, were arrested for rape, police said. The school is seriously considering disbanding its soccer team to take responsibility for the crime, a school spokesman said.

11) Economy

Not only has youth unemployment reached a 10-year high of 10% and is still rising, but the number of jobless female graduates has hit a record high, and the JoongAng Ilbo has a report on the structural and discriminatory practices responsible. Not that it gladdens me to be proved right, but this was somewhat predictable considering the fact that women were overwhelmingly targeted for recession in the financial crisis, as I reported in my very first Korean Gender Reader post in January 2009 (source right: Korea Times).

12) Breaking the myth of Korean homogeneity

While not a gender issue at first glace, actually it’s difficult to think of a gender issue, or rather sexuality issue, in which Korea’s “bloodlines”-based nationalism and its preservation doesn’t play a role, and for more on which I highly recommend Ethnic Nationalism in Korea: Genealogy, Politics, And Legacy (2006) by Gi-Wook Shin. Here, Halfie Trots the Globe translates and discusses the article Indian Ayodhia’s twin-fish motif as evidence of its marriage-based relationship with Gaya by Kim Byeongmo, a professor of Anthropology and Archaeology at Hanyang University, and which demonstrates India and Korea’s historical relationship and evidence of some intermarriage 2000 years ago.

13) Northeast Asia

- Taiwan launches million dollar baby-making slogan search

Alas, while Taiwan has much the same problems as Korea with its low birthrate, it isn’t that desperate, and the prize is for 1 million Taiwanese dollars, or US$30,000. My apologies, but I don’t know if English slogans are acceptable…

- Domestic violence cases souring in Japan

But this may actually be positive, reflecting greater awareness and reporting:

The number of domestic violence cases police recognized in 2009 soared 11.7% from the previous year to 28,158, the highest since an annual survey began in 2002, the National Police Agency said Thursday. An NPA official ascribed the rise to increased reports to police and consultations with them by citizens amid growing awareness of domestic violence in Japan.

See here for links a brief video offering some background, from April 2009. And actually, despite appearances, much the same revolution is occurring in Korea, primarily because of women’s greater willingness to report and prosecute abusers and a sea-change in the police’s attitudes towards it (see here for a long post providing some background also).

( Left: Don’t Belong by The Dream Seeker; Right: Change Begins Here by Self-portrait_Girl )

- Ex-Prada employee sues Japanese division for discrimination

To be precise, she was fired for refusing to fire staff because they were “ugly”. From New York Magazine:

An ex-retail manager for Prada’s Japanese division, Rina Bovrisse, has followed through on her pledge to file a discrimination lawsuit against the company. Bovrisse claims she was asked to fire store managers and retail staff members whom Prada Japan’s CEO found visually unappealing. After filing a complaint about this with the Tokyo District Court in December, she was fired from the company

- Tokyo municipal government plans to outlaw child-porn manga

According to The Economist:

The Tokyo municipal government plans to vote on March 30th to amend an ordinance against child pornography to include “non-existent minors”. Much Japanese porn comes in forms that escape rules covering photos and videos: manga; anime (cartoons); and video-games. Existing bans are meant to protect the child victims. “Virtual” porn—where there is no harm to a real person—is illegal in some countries to protect public morals and ensure a safe environment for children. Last month an American court sentenced a man to six months in prison for possession of Japanese manga child pornography.

With qualifications for the age of viewers and the context in which it is received, then personally I’m completely against the banning of simple drawings, no matter how morally objectionable the content. But regardless, see here for more on a (belated) crackdown on the photos and DVDs in 2008, and which of course I was completely in support of.

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Filed under: Korean Gender Reader
  

 

Destination: St. Patrick's Day festival (2010)



St. Paddy's Day was celebrated at Cheonggyecheon in downtown Seoul - and what a party it was. Although the mixture of Korean hip-hop (above), Korean acapella, traditional Korean music (a pungmul band), and Irish music was a bit quirky, the crowd stayed - and remained noisy until the exodus to Gangnam. More on that in awhile.



Another Korean hip hop group that got the crowd on their feet? Yes, that's Korean hip-hop at a St. Patrick's Day event. Sort that one out - either way, it was quite fun.



Let's call it dance, with a miming sort of twist.



The sole bagpiper seen during the Irish event. He led the crowd at the start of the parade, which went alongside Cheonggyecheon for about a kilometer.



An entertaining unicycle crew - you try being on one wheel on uneven pavement...



A couple of marching bands made it feel more like a July 4th party back in the US.



This picture was not altered in any way. Taken at 3:46pm, the 7-11 just meters away from the plaza was out of beer. The festivities kicked off about noon. A few other convenience stores weren't hit quite as hard, although they were further away from the action. Another interesting observation: Koreans came out to party, but it was mostly the foreigners that drank.



The Fee and Andrea Band - a wonderful Irish band well worth listening to throughout the year.



A Korean band named Bard - also playing Irish music, these guys got the crowd up and dancing:




While there were several Korean university bands that played, Naked had some loud, hard rock that people continued to listen to. Who said St. Paddy's Day was just about Irish music and drinking Guinness?


An excellent U2 tribute band - Deafening Street - the only act the crowd truly sang along to. It is U2, after all - how many other bands have sold 145 million records?

Perhaps a couple thousand people stayed until the last band finished up, then made their way to the Dublin Pub in Gangnam:



Scheduled to start at 7pm, dozens of foreigners were already lined up, ready to pay 50,000 won for an 'all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink' type of party. That turned out to be true - partially. Most people stood in line to get their first drink (a Guinness), or went for one of the shorter lines and got a Cass before heading up to the second floor for the food. A fairly decent spread of finger foods and dinner items filled several tables, although little if anything was Irish in nature. For 50,000 won? Seriously? No Irish stew? No soda bread? The fish and chips is more popular in modern times, so I'll give it a pass. For the record, gimbap should not be on the menu of such an expensive ticket.

The crowd was huge - and perpetually in line. To the pub's credit, Guinness taps were installed in several places to keep the crowd lubricated, while Cass taps were strategically placed elsewhere across the two floors.

Once the crowd had been fed, it was time for the entertainment to begin. A lone guitarist played a few original songs on stage, although clearly no one was listening. Enter the U2 tribute band:



Deafening Street performed several of U2's greatest hits - they rock.



Two of the four Irish step dancers - aside from the twirling, their step action was quite together and surprisingly loud for an unamplified floor.



Bard performed again in the evening - the same lady playing the accordian also took a piccolo (recorder?) out to intro a few of their songs.

Somewhere near the end of the evening I was introduced to the gentleman from Korean Rum Diary - since he's anonymous on his blog I'll keep him that way here. We'll have to catch up for another beverage in a slightly quieter environment - trying to understand and be understood is rather difficult with crowd noise and music in the background.

As a whole, the Irish Association of Korea deserves a lot of compliments and credits - the Cheonggyecheon part of the festival went almost flawlessly. The music was excellent, the giving away of free Guinness was quite popular, and the souvenirs were nice. The parade was entertaining, with enough going on in English (to keep fellow foreigners in the loop) and Korean (to keep the locals in the loop). For next year, I'd love to see some food / drink vendors with the capacity to serve the sort of crowds we saw. Obviously there's a limited space in the Cheonggyecheon area, but I'm sure something could be arranged. The tribute to the Irish soldiers that fought in the Korean war was excellent - and I'd love to see some more information about the holiday's history (for both those that have forgotten it and those who never learned it in the first place).

As for the Dublin Pub part...? Well, the food and drink was good, once you got to it. The crowd was much the same that had been partying and drinking the afternoon away at Cheonggyecheon, although I suspect we lost most of the locals on the way. For next year, please consider hand stamps instead of small green stickers - mine came off within minutes of arriving, having been jostled by the crowd one too many times. The biggest complaint was the crowd - a cap on people in the establishment needs to be in place for next time. It shouldn't take a half hour to get a Guinness.


Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

Random pictures, part 30

Some more random pictures for your enjoyment. Taken across my travels across Seoul and Korea, they're a reflection of, well, absolutely nothing - but they're fun to look at:



A pretty cool mural - seen near Chungjeongno station.



If I'm going to get my smile 'designed' somewhere, a D+ is not the grade I want to give it.



What?! Cauliflower in Korea? WOW. For those of you reading outside of Korea, cauliflower has not been seen in a market before this during my time in Korea (since March 2008). I suspect it's not grown in large quantities, but I'm hoping that changes. Found near Nowon station at a place called L-Mart.



I love how animals serve themselves - this poor oblivious chicken serves himself with a beer to keep things interesting.



The Invisible Man - one of three hiding behind newspapers in Hyehwa.



OK, so it's an ad - but it's a cute one. I love the little girl's face - it screams 'did you fart on it?'



Need a sticker for your door / window / table / whatever? Or just want to learn some Korean? Here's the place to go - a street vendor near Konkuk University station (line 2).



Best caption wins a cookie. Found in Hongdae.



They're finally up and working - a bevy of electronic touch-screen devices in every subway station offering a subway map, an internet phone allowing you to call anywhere in Korea, and a number of other related services. It's a shame they can't transmit a WiFi signal so I can use my iPod in the subway station, but meh... Some are still covered with a fabric cover - apparently not all of the computer components have been received / installed...



Matchmaker, matchmaker / make me a match / find me a find / catch me a catch... I'm not precisely certain what we're advertising for, but the English wording seems fairly clear. That's one way to boost Korea's birth rate, I guess... Telephone number blurred since I'm not advertising for them (not for free, at least).



Austin Powers called - he wants his awesome color scheme back. If those cars don't see you, they're blind.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

Alex Fest, Day 2

After the instruments of doom I went to get my hair cut, and actually succeeded in communicating what I wanted. This is a bigger feat than it sounds. When I told a co-worker about how I needed to get a hair cut but was nervous because my Korean is so bad and they never seem to do what I want, she burst into laughter.
Me: What's so funny?
Co-worker: I am Korean. I speak Korean...and they still don't do what I want.
~~Giggling ensues.~~
Co-worker: If you bring a picture, it works much better.
Me: Aha! Amazing! I'm glad to know it wasn't JUST because I was mangling the words...

At first when I walked in, the ajossi behind the counter was just like 'anneeyo!' (no!) despite my polite greeting and mini bow. I think he was just stressed out about communicating in Korean or English with someone who wasn't Korean. However, I persevered, because a friend had recommended this place to me as an alternative to trekking into Busan to one of the 'international' salons. After about 30 seconds of hearing me stutter away in broken Korean, showing my picture and miming and the receptionist looking very unfriendly, a hair washing girl walked right up to me and said (in a very warm, friendly manner) 'what do you want?' I explained in Korean and English that I wanted a trim and then dried and styled like the photo. She smiled, translated to the receptionist who grunted and pointed to a hair stylist. After that, I was treated like any other patron, which is to say, very well. I wasn't upset, I understand that it's stressful to try to understand someone who is butchering your language and making your job difficult. Besides, I ended up with a fabulous hair cut and feeling much better than I had directly after my torture session. My hair dresser didn't speak much English but the more I managed to relax and put together sentences in Korean, the more she relaxed and asked me questions in a mix of Korean and English when I didn't understand the Korean words. It was like, the more I made mistakes in her language, the more it was okay for her to make mistakes in English in front of me.

When I got home, I grabbed a purse friendly book (Factotum by Charles Bukowski) and went over to the park down the street.  I laid down on a bench and read in the sun and my afternoon was punctuated only by greetings from my students who were there to play.

That evening, the Female Kiwi, the Partial Asian, Hooligan 1/Cragon and I got together for some amazing Korean barbecue. Then we went to the Hemingway to meet up with some more people and eat chocolate cake. What's that you say? A baked good that wouldn't ruin my evening?!! That's right, I have the best friends ever. The Female Kiwi got a vegan cake recipe, I contributed a bar of my precious Swiss chocolate and a bottle of lemon juice, Happy Starfish Girl contributed the use of her oven and somehow, somehow my cake got made.

Yummy, yummy cake. So I failed at taking a picture of this (though I tried) but yesterday was a ridiculously bad yellow dust day. Time to bring the face masks out! Go look at the picture a fellow k-blogger, Roboyseyo took when he was in town this weekend.

Next we made the long trek into Busan for dancing and craziness.  There were many people involved...none of which I got permission from to have posted on my blog. Just imagine 10 crazy foreigners dancing up a storm and getting the Koreans around them dancing and partying too. I like birthdays. Everyone is very lovely, buys you drinks and goes where YOU want to go next. Quite fabulous. If I want to stop for a snack, everyone stops for a snack! None of this, Alex, you JUST ate a pound of flesh at the restaurant and 4 pieces of chocolate cake. Well, okay, they did say that but it was in a loving way while they patiently waited for me to finish eating my gyro. A girl gets hungry!

Coming up: Alex goes to a Buddhist monastery on her birthday for bibimbap, a talk on dharma and traditional calligraphy class. Lots of pictures, I promise.

You had to be There

Moments from EPIK orientation 2010: You had to be There, written Feb. 17, 2010


Feb. 17, 2010
8:30 p.m. KST...

... however, the computer says it's still 6:30 a.m. EST because I have not gone online yet in South Korea for it to correct itself.

South Korea. Wow. I actually did it. I actually went back. Hello.

To fully understand the gravity of that statement, you need to, well, you need to be me. Or, you need to have done something, pull out early, only to one day wonder if stopping so soon was doing a disservice to yourself, if only because you knew that thing you were trying to accomplish was not the reason for your departure. South Korea was not the problem. There was no problem, per se. It was timing, I guess. It was... whatever. I could try to explain it forever, but it would still come back to what I already said: you had to be there.

You had to be me, crazed and alone, green around the gills, an itch for travel but little stomach. And then, one day, 40 days later, give it all up and go running back home. I don't beat myself up for it. It had to be done at that time. These are not self-depracating statements, only facts of a time that feels like a lifetime ago.

As we drove from the airport to our final destination for a week, Jeonju University, I had a thought as we passed by endless apartment towers, some seemingly rising from the ground with no noticeable entry point or legitimacy for their existance. As I stared through the dirty window at rice paddy after rice paddy, I did not feel the excessive awe I know I felt in 2005, that feeling of being on another world. Because, I wasn't – I was here before. If not this particular highway, if not this particular town, I have been here in South Korea. And, for a moment, I wondered if some of my feelings for this country stemmed from a period of 40 days that could never be replicated, because they were experienced by someone who had barely been beyond his home state and had suddenly been thrust upon a world that was similar enough to exist, but different enough to always be noticed at his most vulnerable. What if I could not experience those otherworldy feelings in 2010? What if it had all been created by a wild memory?

I would just have to create new memories. Starting now, in South Korea, in 2010.

                                On the bus ride from Seoul/Incheon International Airport to Jeonju University, Feb. 17, 2010

—John Dunphy

When I’m old, Northerners can wipe my bum

I think the Metropolitician wrote about how North Koreans would fare should unification take place.  Alright, many have discussed the subject, but the Metropolitician described how they would be valued. South Koreans would be first class citizens, followed by North Korean women with North Korean men on the bottom.  Sadly, I cannot find the article on his blog.

The Times describes today what use North Koreans could be put to, after unification:

South Korea should seek ways to use the North’s working population as part of efforts to prepare for the rapid aging of the South’s population, a local private think tank said Sunday.

The article goes on to suggest North Koreans would be capable of light industrial work, and not specifically to care for the aged.

Will the Northern lady-folk be more valued?

There will be one more synergistic effect if both Koreas cooperate in the population policy. In 2008, there were 100.9 men per 100 women in the South, while there were 97.2 men per 100 women in the North, the report said. However, when calculating the population of both Koreas, there were 99.7 men per 100 women.

It seems to me that this paragraph says yes.

The sooner unification comes the better.  That may be true from a purely financial standpoint, but also in beginning the process of accepting the humans and treating both sides as equals.


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