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10 THINGS IN KOREA THAT I'LL NEVER, EVER DO

I like living in Korea. I've been here for almost six years now, so if I hated it, I would have split a long time ago. I like hiking, I like the food, I like riding my motorcycle, checking out the street markets, and drinking my ass off. It's a crowded crazy little place and I've grown to love it, for better or for worse.  Plus, the girls are bangin' hot.

That said, there are a lot of things here that I think are totally lame and that I have no interest in ever doing. Here's a list of ten, in no particular order:

1. I'LL NEVER, EVER GO ON A TEMPLE STAY

Does wearing grey pajamas, waking up at three a.m., eating soggy flavorless food, and sitting Indian-style for hours on a hard wooden floor sound like fun to you?  Doesn't to me.  In fact, it sounds totally shitty and boring as fuck.  Yet countless foreigners head to the monasteries every weekend to do  "temple stays," as if it's some essential "cultural experience" that will leave them with a better understanding of Korea.  If you really want to understand the culture, pick up some of the language and get drunk with some ajoshhis at your local soju tent.

And a lot of people give Buddhists a pass because they're all "nice" and don't bomb abortion clinics, but Buddhists believe that people are poor because they were assholes in their "past life."  That sounds like a load of horse shit used to keep people in their place to me.  Screw Buddhists.  I'd rather be a Muslim any day, as at least they believe in egalitarianism.


2. I'LL NEVER, EVER WEAR A HANBOK

Nothing seems to tickle the locals' fancy more than dressing up the big goofy foreigners in hanboks, which are colorful, traditional Korean attire.  Schools love to make their teachers put them on for festivals and special days; some losers even get married in the things, no doubt at the insistence of their ball-busting soon to be a battle-ax ajumma future wives.  Hanboks suck.  They make any woman who dons one look pregnant and pretty much every foreigner look like a stupid, fat clown (which is how they see us, anyway.)

In short: jarg clobber.

3. I'LL NEVER, EVER GO TO THE BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL

Nothing says "newbie" like the Boryeong Mud Festival:  Packs of fresh-off-the-boat teachers wandering around in various states of undress, covered in mud that's not even from the beach (it's trucked in for the event) and celebrating the fact that they can publicly drink without getting arrested.  The whole thing is a like ESL spring break, but instead of hot coeds, you're forced to endure herds of morbidly obese Canadian chicks spilling out of their bikinis.  No thanks.


4.  I'LL NEVER, EVER SEE THE CHERRY BLOSSOMS

The only thing as dreadfully boring as a temple stay must be the yearly pilgrimages to see the cherry blossoms ever April.  People pack into their Hyundai Sonatas and wait hours in horrendous traffic jams just to catch of glimpse of the "beautiful cherry blossoms that sooth the soul."  Sure they're kind of pretty, but they're just little fucking flowers on trees.  Are they that desperate for natural beauty in this country that blossoms on trees whip them up into some sort of sightseeing frenzy? I don't get it. I'd rather wash my cats, or spend the weekend watching National Treasure 1 and 2 on a constant loop.
 

5.  I'LL NEVER, EVER "HELP THE ORPHANS"

It's seems like every month, somebody's doing some kind of benefit to "help the orphans" - concerts, silent actions, volunteer trips - you name it, those orphans are getting a lot of love, not to mentions some big coin.  It's as if they're the only charity that foreigners care about.  Who are these "orphans" anyway?  I've never met any.   I thought all of the orphans in this country get adopted by needy and neurotic white couples from Wisconsin  Anyway, fuck 'em.  If their parents didn't love them enough to keep them, why should I?

6.  I'LL NEVER, EVER GO TO THE INCHEON CERAMIC FESTIVAL

This guy did, and even posted pictures:  http://chrisinsouthkorea.blogspot.com  Check out all the mugs and pots.  That looks like SO MUCH FUCKING FUN.

7. I'LL NEVER, EVER PAY MONEY TO SEE A SUPER COOL LAPTOP BAND

There have been a smattering of bands coming through Korea of late, which I do applaud.  However they've all been small combos of unshaven emaciated vegan hipsters playing electroclash or whatever bullshit is passing for cool among the ironic mullet set in Williamsburg, Silverlake, and Portland, Oregon these days.  Recently a duo called Xiu Xiu came to town.  I checked out their video on youtube, and it was a steaming glass of pretentious cat piss.  This isn't surprising, seeing how they're signed to my home town of Olympia's super-elitist Kill Rock Stars label, who have always put out music so "cool" that it doesn't even have to be good.

Call me an old, out-of-touch jerkoff, but if you require a laptop computer to play a show, you're not a musician and I probably will hate you and want to burn down your band.

8.  I'LL NEVER, EVER LEARN HOW TO MAKE "DEOK"

Deok, or Korean rice cakes are culturally cherished, but they're really like eating concentrated apathy.  They're nothing but rice that's been smacked to death with a huge wooden mallet.  Koreans love the things and are always forcing them on foreigners, oblivious to the fact that most of us do not think that "Korean rice cakes are the most delicious rice cakes."  But it's always in front of your boss or at a home where you teach a very lucrative private, so you choke down the slab of "deok" that looks and tastes like it was cut straight out of a nerf football.

Some silly and stupid foreigners go on weekend retreats where they learn to make the shit.  That's just wrong.  Some recipes need to stay in the family.

9. I'LL NEVER, EVER EAT BOSHINGTANG

Boshingtang is Korean dog meat soup.  It's pretty much only eaten by men (to make their dicks hard), and is eaten mainly in the summer, often with su yuk (steamed dog meat).  Most foreigners rightly turn their noses up a the disgusting and depraved practice of eating fido, but there are a big enough minority that give it a try, some with gusto even.  They think they're getting some "real" cultural experience, but no, they're just eating nasty-ass greasy dog meat and patting themselves on the back for really "getting into Korea."

Fuck that.  I've been to the Gupo dog market and seen those poor guys stuffed in their cages and looking out at me with sad, defeated eyes, resigned to their unfortunate fate, which usually involves being strung up and beaten before getting killed.  This supposedly makes the meat more tender or delicious or some other load of crap, but I think it's just because the people who raise and slaughter dogs are just plain mean.

I know, I know.  I'm a hypocrite because I eat other meat and those animals are too, treated brutally.  But I say fuck you, dogs are different and should not be eaten.  Chickens, on the other hand, are fair game. (rimshot)

10.  I'LL NEVER, EVER PAY OUT THE ASS FOR OVERPRICED SHITTY FOREIGN FOOD 

How many times have I gone to an Indian, Thai, or Turkish place in Korea and gotten totally hosed?  I never trust any foreigner who says, "Oh, there's this amazing new middle eastern restaurant in Kyungsungdae.  It's awesome."  Why?  Because it never is.  Most all of these places require a wheelbarrow full of banknotes to pay for portions so small that they'd leave a Darfur refugee wanting for more.  One time I counted three microscopic pieces of chicken in a sixteen dollar curry at an abortion of an Indian restaurant.  The worst is the time I went to the Thai place in Haeundae and ordered the crab and shrimp curry (thirty six bucks).  The dish arrived, with a handful of small, spiny, gum slicing crabs.  Upon further investigation I discovered there were no shrimp at all.  When confronted, the surly waitress curtly informed us that they were out of shrimp that day and turned and walked away.    And I won't even write about the massacres that are Korean attempts at Mexican food, except to say that the ceviche I tried in Masan was made with ketchup.  Motherfucking ketchup.

I've pretty much given up, and so should you.  Wait until you leave this country to get your fix of foreign food, or make the shit yourself - that's what I do.  And to all you wannabe food critics out there, stop writing glowing reviews of awful foreign restaurants for publications such as 10, Groove, and Busan Haps.  I haven't read a negative restaurant review yet, and believe me, some of these places need their rectums reamed.

Me? I'll be sticking to bibimbap, galbi,  and my daily jeong shik.  As for the shitty foreign restaurants? Just like the holocaust: never again.

A LETTER TO MY PRINTER

May 14, 2010

Hey Mr. Ralph, or can I call you Bill?

I'm Eric Bravo, The Culturebook dude and I have some good news.

The book is done and I’m working. That means that sometime in the next 10 days I'm going to send you the manuscript.  There is one page of color maps, in addition to the color cover.  The rest is all text, very simple and straightforward.  Total pages I'm guessing 167. It needs no editing, just a formatting check, possibly a forced line or two & make sure subheadings don’t appear too low on the page.

I’m a real stickler for how the book looks.  All it takes is a quick page by page scan to make sure there are no rough jumps or awkward page breaks, like a subheading as the last line on a page.  There are a lot of sub-headings that don’t warrant a page break.

I try to be thrifty and pack a lot into the first few pages -- epithets, table contents, preface, whatnot. Perhaps you might choose to expand each different body to each their own page and perhaps a page or two longer will add to the aesthetic.  It’s up to you.  Just make me look good.

No about the author is necessary, since the whole book is about the author. And no photo of me is necessary either since I paint a clear enough picture. The book is all about my life and it’s in the first person and every character is real. I give them all pet names.

I plan on sending you a check for 500 dollars and telling you to get started on the first 1000 units soon.  I know it will take several weeks from the initial receiving of the manuscript electronically to one thousand boxed units ready for shipment. I’m guessing over a week, less than a month.

I don't know the final price yet and I don’t care. Whatever it is, I’ll going to pay the balance before you ship the books obviously. I don’t want to look elsewhere for a printer.  I’ve checked you guys out and spoken with people who’ve used you and I want to do this before summer.

I’m gauging the time so that, metaphorically, the money goes straight from my employer to you, as the books come hot off the press. I work for the US Census Bureau.

What's the consensus on the census?

I wonder Bill, if you work on commission, as your title seems to be sales representative.

The reason I mention this is because, if this were going to be a one time thing, just 1000 units and then we’re done forever, I would expect you to charge me the highest possible amount you could, without gauging of course, because why extend any additional courtesies if there is no chance for a second comish? I used to be in sales. “Be interested / not interesting!” is what my sales manager always said.  My sales-manager was a stand-up comedian on the side!

I would think that if a customer planned on putting in a follow up order for say 5000 or 10,000 units hopefully within the first month – which I fully intend to do – that THAT would allow for some play in the price. Not that I’m asking for a discount. I’m not.

 I’m just saying…

I’ll tell you straight up. This Culturebook is my calling card. I hope to never have to work again.  Seriously!  You have no idea how much time has gone into this book.  Tens of thousands of man hours, I kid you not. 

Also, my first major market is SKorea, where most of the book takes place and I know I can find a printer there who will do the same job for half what you charge and I’m sure I’ll do that eventually, exclusively for the Asian market – SK, Japan, PI, etc., possibly Europe.

Dude, I’m going for translations into French, German, Spanish, Japanese, etc. before year’s end. Other printers will almost certainly be working on Culturebook in time.

I KNOW

All writers hope to write the next perennial best seller, Old Man and the Sea or Catcher or some book that tens of thousands of HS students buy new every year. Thing is, I’ve written that book, just like B.E. Easton wrote Less than Zero back in the 80’s. Bookstores couldn’t keep that book on the shelf. 

You will be printing the next independent best seller. Am I crazy confident out of my mind or do I just know a good think when I see it? Everybody likes the smell of their own farts.

You guys and me, and my buddy with the LA warehouse, and my Taiwanese business head chick, and UPS, and Used book stores throughout the US and Canada and SKorea for the first year are going to profit mucho from this endeavor. Only us! 

Everybody else is going to want a piece and we don’t have to give it to them, cuz they are not going to give ME and my friends 6-10 dollars per book, which is what I’m going to make off this endeavor.

I’m selling each book for 10 dollars cheap, like Mad Magazine used to say. 12 dollars plus tax from the independent bookstores. I’ve compiled a list of at least one or two Independent Book Stores in every major city in America. They will all hear from me. We will split the sell – 6&6. I want to keep it cheap for my customers. 

In the PI, my book will sell for 300 pesos, 6 bucks – and all the money will go to the girls who are in the book.  There's only a few and we're still in touch. I’ll send them books and I’ll get nothing in return but satisfaction. The girls are going to sell Culturebook out of Dryden’s coffee shop in Subic Bay and Gecko’s Bar in Angeles City, since they are both featured in the book.  The girls will split their profits.  Hopefully the bars won't demand too big a cut.  That will be what it will be.

In SKorea, Culturebook will sell for 12,000 won online at whatthebookDOTcom and at Cheju Booktown. I know the owner’s wife. She’s Filipina. Her name is Belle. What the book is run by an American man with a Korean wife.  I'm dying to meet him.

See, publishers would surely jack up the price so THEY can make money.  Who needs them!  Not us.

I’m going to control my own distribution and sell solely on my own website forthcoming, and from Independent booksellers throughout North America, who will probably be out of biz before the decade is gone so I wanna give ‘em a good run. Get to know some of them, visit their stores, do a summer tour and do readings. Hopefully follow a band around on tour like IDIOT FLESH if I can get in touch with them.  They are all over Book One.  I'm hoping to find a band with tour dates that can coincide with my summer book tour dates, which I will make on my own cuz there is no one but me and St. Tommy the warehouse dude and Charlene  and me, and Chepe Escondido and Flibworth Thurstein.  I’m thinking far ahead.  I've know these guys for over 20 years.  I just met Charlene.  She's Taiwanese.  She's all business.

If people had to go to a used bookstore to buy my book, upon visiting the store, they may buy another book. They may see a tattered copy of Fight Club for 6 bucks. They may buy it. They may remember how cool it was to be in there and return again and again to that used bookstore on Main Street.

I love used book stores, and have all my life. I hate to think that they’ll all be gone one day. So many have closed of late like Moe’s in Berkeley. All the Doubleday’s, BDalton’s, Rizzoli’s, Crown in LA so many gone forever. There are so few bookstores anymore, other than Borders and B&N and I hate them and I DON’T WANT THEM to carry my book. WALMART neither.

It’s why I say, while you are calculating the final price on 1000 units printed with one color page – go easy!  REAL EASY!!! And make it look good. Real good!!!

Dude, I have 3 books. This is only the first installment. And they are all written. It’s one long book! This is just Part Two.  Part Three will be available in Sept and Part One will be available for Xmas.  There may even be an I-Book with pics and vids.

It’s kind of like Star Wars with the prequel and all!

Like I said, I’m going to send you 500 dollars and the manuscript. It will be a check, so you can cash it when you feel confident. I want a paper trail and I want to keep it old school. I can’t remember the last time I wrote a check. I also want that returned check as a memento. 

You will receive the first check around the time May becomes June.  And the balance shortly thereafter when the books are complete and ready to ship to my Van Nuys address.

I will have 2000 dollars by mid June, or more.  I get paid weekly.  I don’t pay rent and I own my car and I don’t drive much.  I also do all my eating at home. 

I hope the final cost of this book is far less than I imagine it may be.  Like I said, the second order will be placed shortly thereafter.  I know it is meaningless, but still, I GUARANTEE IT!  1000 units of Culturebook are going to go like nothing the literary world has seen since 1984.  That was the year Less Than Zero came out.  I think.

I’d like to see prices on 5000 and 10,000 unit orders as well.  But that can wait. Don’t tell me now.

I haven’t looked at any of the material you sent me, or even taken the plastic off the self-publishing book your company sent me.  I can send it all back to you if you want.  I don’t need that shit.  I'm never going to look at it.  I've got the bomb business plan and the assistant from Heaven. 

It’s MMX 2010 and my astrologer told me that this was my time. I don’t even believe in astronomy!

Here’s the deal. I work for the census. I’ve already clocked close to 1500 bucks and still working – pay is delayed a few weeks. I’m sure the total cost of the first 1000 units will be less than the proposed 220 pager quote you gave me, so I’m good. I hope.

I want to get this started.  I don’t want to work with anybody else but you guys. At least, at first. I can always change later. I’m sure publishers and godknowswhoelse are gonna start contacting me once this thing goes platinum, but I want to keep it family.

So do me right. And we can do business for a long time.

Expect a phone call.

Eric J Bravo

 www.culturebook.livejournal.com

 


Interview: Edward Burgos and Viviana Serratos

A version of this interview appeared in May 2010's issue of the Groove Magazine. All photos below are my own, and may differ from the printed version.



I recently sat down with Edward Burgos and Viviana Serratos over some burritos at Dos Tacos, eager to learn about their movie-making while in Korea. Their uncommon backgrounds (Edward is 1/2 El Salvadorian, while Viviana claims to be "Mexican, Puerto Rican and Spanish, and a mix of some other passionate cultures") give them a unique perspective on life in Korea.

Chris Backe: Tell us about yourself - how did you get into movie-making?

Edward Burgos: I studied Politics at UKC University in Canterbury, England, but I had no idea what I wanted to do. Eventually I began teaching English, then moved to Korea in 2005. While in Korea, I began learning about cameras and cinematography. On my way to work one day, I was reading a camera manual while riding the bus. I was so engrossed learning about light refraction that I missed my stop! It was an epiphany - loving what you do is so important.

Viviana Serratos: I free-fell 25 feet while rock climbing, broke the tibia and fibula in my right leg, the fibula being a compound fracture and almost died in the process. I was 19 and unhappy in where I was in life and school. I had always had this intense interest in film and wanted to direct, but came from a family where something at that caliber was unreachable. After recovering from my accident I ended transferring to film school and found my true passion and began pouring myself into film making, eventually working in Hollywood as a director's assistant. I was fortunate enough to be a part of the films 'Pride and Glory', 'The Rocker', and 'What Happens in Vegas'. Working as a director's assistant was a lot like being an apprentice - you're always learning and doing something new and learning what a real director goes through. After the writer's strike and the economy going south, I came to Korea to teach English and learn the culture. It's been a great opportunity to create instead of just thinking about creating.

CB: How did you two first meet?

VS: We met over the 48 Hour Film Project [a film-making contest where a team creates and produces a short film in 48 hours] and I contacted Edward because he had a video camera, but, sadly, was already committed to another team. A few months later I was directing a short film, THE RIGHT MARK, a cool little Romantic Comedyesque short, and we talked over some beers and funky corn with ham, and we eventually realized that we could make some movie magic together. I just knew right then that he was an amazingly talented man.

CB: What have you put together so far?

VS: [One of my favorites] is on Vimeo. It's called 'The Last Request', and it's basically a joke turned into a short film. Another of my favorites is on hitrecord.com - it's called 'Frequency', but you'll have to see it for yourself.

EB: I am in post production on an adaptation of a short story by Robert Heinlein, a contemporary of Isaac Asimov. It's a cool noir-like sci-fi story about paradoxes. I hope to have it done in the next few months and have it up on my website.

CB: Being an English teacher must take a big dent out of your day - how have you worked around the schedule?

VS: Even after teaching, Taekwondo and Hapkido classes keep me busy during the week. But I always have a book with me, and I'm always thinking, jotting down notes to remember what I'm thinking about.

EB: I go through phases - some months I'm super busy with work, other months I'm spending every spare minute editing, producing, and so on. My master plan is to get a university job so I can get 4 months of paid vacation every year and make films!

CB: What drives you?

EB: If I'm not working with a film, I wonder, 'why not?' - I'm always seeing a shot, thinking of a short script, and my brain's always working. You never really clock out from this sort of thought. Even the vocabulary is important - learning what a Dutch angle is or the technical aspects of lighting gets me pumped, something I never thought would happen.

VS: I left Hollywood because I felt it lacked originality - all they're doing nowadays is remakes, movies of books, or just focusing on the special effects. In Hollywood, people want to use you to climb up. I'm going back there - but first I'm putting on a suit of armor for when I go back. The movies I work on now don't have a budget, but it's actually a blessing because you have to use your imagination. There's also more freedom - there's no investors or studios yelling at you to make the deadline. If you're going to be a full filmmaker, you're responsible for every step of the process. That means you're always learning something new, and I have had always loved learning.

CB: What's getting equipment like here?

EB: It's rentable for the most part, but you still have to know how to work it. If you're serious about making movies, you might consider buying the equipment you'll need.

CB: What's your current / next big project?

EB: Right now I'm working with 'Root Experience', a theater group that emphasizes artist and audience interaction, breaking down the fourth wall, and bridging cultures. I'm working with Simon Magnus, another producer and theater director to put together a feature-length documentary. I'm also starting a podcast where I talk about film - that'll be at http://enanoski.webs.com.

VS: I would love to make a short film with Korean actors and use a Korean pseudonym [to make it appear that a foreigner wasn't at the helm]. I'm currently on a radio show - TBS's 'Drive Time' every Saturday providing the latest in Hollywood Gossip. My main film goal while in Korea is to build a collection of people's experiences of living in Korea - ideally, I want to put these short films together like a quilt. Get a foreigners perspective of Korea and make it into a feature, having myself and other film makers direct these shorts. Also, I'm always looking for scripts to direct!

CB: How can people get involved with your projects?

EB: If you're passionate about your art, I'll work with you. You also have to remember that it's a team effort. I've learned so much from the people around me that I have to ask 'why SHOULDN'T I give back to the people around me?' Stick with your friends, and be generous with them. You should never lose your civility. The little extra kindnesses really do go a long way.

CB: Any advice for other people looking into start something new?

EB: Love what you do.

VS: But keep a balance, or you'll lose your head.

EB: You have to take the first step - don't wait for someone to connect all the dots for you. You're the one that has to make things come together. Don't wait for a Korean partner to run interference or provide all the money you need. I tell my friends to keep me in check, to ground me. I can't imagine becoming a sudden success story like that low-budget zombie film gone huge ["Colin", which wowed crowds at Cannes on a budget of about $70].

CB: Anything else to add?

VS: Just that I'm very impressed with peoples willingness to get involved in Korea - weather it be giving their time, losing sleep or offering their homes to be invaded by a bunch of strangers with a camera, people are there to do whatever needs to be done. I am blessed to have made a good group of friends who provide a great deal of support for my art. Thank you.


Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.


 

창원 Changwon

29 Nov 2009, It may not be a pretty day, but my desire to escape Masan gets me to neighboring 창원 Changwon to see the fall leaves and a little park in the city center.

This announcement brought to you by...Konglish



Hey, a consulate that cares.... intimately...? Seen near Myeongdong / the Seoul Tower.



Presenting Konglish at it's finest - "salmon and sea bass steak that white wine source and cream sauce 2 sauce can see taste", anyone? Seen near the National Assembly.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.


함안 Haman

28 Nov 2009, I was told there was nothing in 함안군 Haman County, but a quick online search found a couple sites of interest. So today I go to visit the royal burial mounds just to get myself outta 마산 Masan.

Emergency Drills in South Korea

The days I don't bring my camera with me to work are bound to be full of picture taking opportunities. Murphy's Law is brilliant that way. Anyways, as I was stumbling through my second cup of tea my co-teacher messaged me that our first class was canceled (huzzah!) for some in class drills. I figured this had nothing to do with me and cheerfully set about getting a third cup of tea and working at a leisurely pace on lesson preparations.  An hour later, smoke bombs (of a mild variety) were set off in the school, an alarm went off and the loud speaker announced that everyone was to vacate the building. At least, that's what I presume it said.  So I grabbed my cup of tea (oh the joy of travel mugs) and followed the squealing crowds of children out.  After everyone was assembled (far too close to the school if there was ever a real fire or catastrophe) our attention was called to the student waving a blue cleaning rag out of the window. It was a simulation for what you should do if you don't get out in time.  Then the two PE teachers rushed into the school, got her, and carried her out on a stretcher. I kid you not. They fake checked her over for a minute too. Next, the teachers assembled in the middle of the field to demonstrate how to use a fire extinguisher. Instead of just using them they decided to practice on a real fire.  So they gathered together some cardboard boxes and lit them on fire. The children were highly entertained.  After all of that, everyone went back inside presumably to continue the workshop. I went and got another cup of tea and got back to lesson prep. Except that everything smelled pretty badly for an hour it was a nice diversion to my usual routine.

Speaking of catastrophes, go and read Mr. Awesomecool's evaluation of the quality of Korean construction.  He worked in construction for awhile in the US and knows quite a bit about safety standards.

Tonight, bibimbap with the Partial Asian and SLEEP. Hopefully. I haven't been sleeping very well lately (yes, I know all of the caffeine isn't helping) and it's making me start to approach zombie land again...

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