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The Choir

The day after the French Comedy I found myself at the Geumjeong Cultural Center ('금정문화회관') in Busan - I believe that around half the districts in the city have their own cultural centre - for a performance by the Busan Metropolitan City Chorus.

Unlike the French Comedy, which had cost 22,500 won per ticket (about £13/$20), tickets to see the Busan Chorus were a mere 1,000 won (59 pence/88 cents) - a special promotion as part of the event's proximity to Children's Day on May 5th and Parents' Day on May 8th. This meant that the tickets only cost us 10 won more than the price of the forty-five minute subway journey to get there.

When I write about the costs of cultural events in Korea I usually add the equivalent British Pounds and US Dollar amounts to provide some context. However, an additional factor is that the average salary in South Korea is lower - according to the IMF in 2009 the Purchasing Power Parity (PPP) of the US in dollar terms was approximately $46,000, the UK was $35,000 and South Korea was $28,000. Furthermore, there is a large diversity of incomes in Korea, with Korea's income gap by gender being the largest in the OECD, many people earning less than the minimum wage - not just the young in my experience - and over 3 million Korean households being classed as living in poverty. In other words, attending cultural events may well be largely in the domain of the better off, which is why cultural initiatives priced to be more inclusive is, in principle, such a good idea.

Unfortunately, the price didn't translate into audience numbers in practice - vast areas of seats were empty by the time the performance was scheduled to begin. It crossed my mind that the 1,000 won pricing may have actually devalued the experience. My wife had been a little under the weather due to her pregnancy, and even we had paused to reconsider our attendance beforehand, which had the tickets been more expensive we likely wouldn't have.

So when fifty choir members walked out onto the stage, it was sadly entirely possible that they outnumbered the audience, meaning that unlike the previous day at the French Comedy, if they decided to rush us we were in trouble. I felt rather sorry for them, but if conductor Kim Kangkyu ('김강규') was discouraged he didn't show it as he proceeded to talk the audience through the various pieces with the enthusiasm and smile of a true believer. It was quite infectious.

And the Busan Metropolitan City Chorus seemed equally determined. I have to admit, the 1,000 won pricing had not served to build up any high expectations in my mind, and it wasn't what I expected in a half-empty district cultural centre a little off the beaten track. As they launched into a beautiful rendition of Caro mio ben I thought "Who are these people, and what are they doing here?"

The Chorus was not merely going to limit itself to some arias though, as it broke out of the opera genre and into a rousing and surprising rendition of the Scottish classic Loch Lomand. I thought I detected a couple of 'lubs' rather than 'loves' in there, but generally it sounded for all the world as though they were singing in a Scottish accent. If I'd closed my eyes I could have almost imagine the aftermath of an English rugby defeat. To provide some balance, England's Down by the Salley Gardens was also part of the brief choral tour of the Disunited Kingdom.

The varied repertoire next took us through Germany's Morgen! and Von ewiger Liebe, before returning to more familiar Italian territory with Tosti's La Serenata, and L'Ultima Canzone. The performances were good and I felt more than a little guilty afterwards that we'd considered not attending, because it would have been unfortunate to have missed it.

I was sorry for the choir in that they probably outnumbered the audience, but I learned later that they'd recorded a CD and appeared at more mainstream venues many times, so the day's rather limited audience was probably nothing more than an aberration.

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The Frog and I

My first real introduction to Cambodian cuisine was about half an hour from the Vietnamese border.

Our coach had made an ‘unscheduled’ stop at a small deserted cafe. My stomach led me into the eating area. Attempting the mantra ‘do as the locals do…’ I decided to go with whatever the native in front order; rice vegetables and a little meat. I motioned to the food and the server’s response was to imitate a frog. I hesitantly nodded and was handed a plate of stir-fry frog’s legs… It was delicious and although there was little meat that moment changed the way I thought about doing things.

 

© John Brownlie 2012


Destination: Lotus Lantern Festival (2010) - part 1



As in years past, the 연등회 (Yeon Deung Hoe, or Lotus Lantern Festival) is an excellent, if overly touristy, chance to learn more about one of the world's oldest religions. A folk festival that has origins in the Goryeo period continued as the Lantern Celebration in the Joseon Dynasty (광등노리), and continues as a social festival to this day. The religion and reverence, however, seems to get lost amidst the hubbub of making paper lotus flowers, candles, and a hundred other things.

The event started in the afternoon, with dozens of tents offering arts, crafts, and information.



Say, perhaps, you want to make a paper lotus lantern...



...or a screen ink print...



...or make a wish to tie onto any of the strings, or dozens of other arts and crafts projects. I never knew Buddha was so artistically inclined.



No idea why a lion was posing with a 'Good Hands Africa' at a Buddha's Birthday festival. What the Kimchi?



A bit more traditional - a large-scale jump rope where people just 'jumped in'.



One highlight of the afternoon - an excellent drumming performance. Not sure I could identify the different types of drums, but the sound was tight and attracted a large crowd.

Shortly after the drumming came a Korean costume / mask performance. Since the performance was narrated in Korean, I have little idea about the meaning of the different characters:





The half-hour show had a wide variety of characters - cutting it down to three pictures for the sake of keeping your attention was hard :)



Spreading sand - one grain at a time. Even for these masters of patience it takes house to create a mandala.



An art project for the grown-ups with a steady hand - paint a Buddha, just follow the lines.



We finally ended up at the temple - running into FeetMan Seoul (AKA the Metropolitican) while there. The scene was chaotic - hundreds of people running around trying to get lanterns and everything set up for the parade coming up soon.

While the festival attracted a large foreigner crowd, the whole thing seems a bit... fluffy. Much like Christmas in the US, the reason for the season has been lost - it's a family outing, not a reverential time. Even those trying to be reverential at the temple had a tough time navigating the colorful lanterns (still packaged five to a plastic bag) and the photographers going for the money shot.

Stay tuned for tomorrow's follow-up - the well-known Lotus Lantern Parade. After taking a couple hundred pictures it takes some time to pick out the best ones!

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.


 

Kamustahan Filipino Restaurant, Busan Station area

Venturing into the seedy area around Texas street is not our favourite pastime, but we managed to find perhaps the only non-sleazy place around, Kamustahan, a friendly Filipino place.

We had the Chicken Adobo as recommended by the staff, which was absolutely delicious. It was cooked to perfection with a mouthwatering sauce.

However, I have to say that this place is pretty overpriced. Dishes are modest in size; the chicken was quite scrawny for 10,000 won; and 4,000 for the small bottles of local beer is pushing it in anyone's book. Hopefully we will discover a more reasonably priced alternative
soon enough, but for now, this is it.

Prices: Mains 10,000won, Beers: 4,000 won 

Some English is spoken by some of the staff.

Vegetarian option: Sorry, I didn't see anything on the menu without meat except white rice.

Directions: Just behind Texas Street (Choryang Shopping Area for Foreigners), near Busan Station.

Buddha's Lantern Parade - Busan




After a gorgeous day out at Haeundae Beach, Matt, Hyesung and I went down to Busan Station to watch the Buddha's Lantern Parade. I technically went to it last year, but I spent most of my time in a KFC restroom as I was having some health issues and missed the parade. This time however I was healthy and good to go!

The parade was great! Its amazing how happy everybody seemed to be and it would totally lift anybody spirits if they were feeling down. Because Matt and I tend to stand out in a crowd of Koreans, we got lots and lots of attention, which ended up being tiring as everybody was saying hello to us (in Korean and English) and giving us high-5's. It really was awesome! I even ran into one of my students who was in the parade. The thing ended around 10:15 so we went and walked around and saw the post-celebrations which were also great. Matt even showed off a dancing move or two (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyePzJ-N2EU)




It is now way past my bedtime but the parade re-energized me and I'm not too tired. I've got an open-class tomorrow at school, but I'm not too worried about it. I don't have the most exciting lesson planned but hopefully it is up to their expectations! So I must head to sleep.





























Jake & the Wii

There are probably many videos like this of kids going nuts with the Wii, but this one is mine:


We have created a Wii junkie!  Up until last Christmas, Carol and I have avoided the whole video game thing.  We'd rather have the boys playing outside, hanging with friends, reading, drawing, etc.  For many kids in the US, it's just hours upon hours of mindless video games.  Kids - what am I talking about?  Adults too.  The other thing was so many of the video games were all about blood, guts or boobs.  While I don't mind seeing that stuff on date night with Carol, I'm not ready for the boys to make it a daily event.

I am a big fan of the Wii though.  The boys can actually work up a sweat on that thing.  The characters are innocent looking and the games are just a lot of fun.  I really don't understand the Wii boxing game though.  I was a dang National Champion boxer in college for goodness sake and my five year old is whooping up on me on a consistent basis.  He can kick my butt while he's sprawled out on the couch.  It's amazing.

Yes, it’s for the students. But, really?

THe Joongang Ilbo has a photo and short accompanying caption of middle and high school teachers washing their student’s feet as a “token of their affection”.

I, on the other hand, repeated my prank of 2008.  I have a picture on my phone but connecting it to the computer is chancy.

Anyway, I feel teaching is important and do it for more than the money.  I have taught as a volunteer and frequently spend my own money on supplements for class.  Still, it’ll be a while before I wash my student’s feet.  I don’t know, it just seems weird.  I will show my affection by doing my job well.


Korean Temples...sort of at Naewansa

Now, I love seeing temples. But I feel the same way about Korean temples as I do Renaissance art--there are only so many you can see before you start getting a little bored of the same styles and subjects repeated over and over again. I can already hear the protesting rants but before anyone gets up in arms: I like Renaissance art and I like Korean temples but sometimes I want to see something dramatically different.

There is a tiny temple in between Yangsan and Tongdo Temple called Naewansa.  I wasn't interested in seeing the temple...I just wanted to play on the rocks along the river like most people my age seemed to be doing in the area (Koreans too, not just foreigners).  So that's what I did. I played along the rocks and then sat, sunned myself, and read this month's book club book (Snow Country by Kawabata).  Of course, I managed to fall through a patch of land that wasn't as solid as it looked and jar my left ankle nicely. It's a little tender but doesn't feel like I re-sprained it and it's not swollen. Cross your fingers people.

Picture diary of my day:
Reasons to be glad you aren't a chicken: you don't live in a cage! Though I will admit, this cage is far bigger than the factory cages in the U.S. There was also a duck in there. I'm not sure if he flew in to hang out for awhile and get some free grub or if his wings were clipped.

This is me trying dongdongju for the first time. I know that it's weird that I've been in Korea for almost a year and a half but I honestly don't drink that often.  It was okay, kind of a like a thicker version of makoli without the carbonation.  The big pancake like thing in the middle of the table is pajeong, an omlette/pancake type thing made from eggs, onions, scallions, peppers and often baby octopus or squid tentacles. Yummy. I had been avoiding it since the last time I had it I was quite ill from what I suspect was milk or butter.  However, my co-workers insisted that pajeong is NEVER made with milk or butter so something else must have made me sick. I was dubious but willing to give it another shot. Absolutely terrible decision on my part--I've been sick since late afternoon.  Oh well, it was mighty tasty.
 Play time for Alex! Sticking your feet in to cool off feels fantastic. I wish I'd worn shorts so I could wade better but it was a little chilly when I set out and I'd rather be too hot than cold any day.

Next time I shall do what these gentlemen did and bring my own food.
Though most likely, I will wander like this girl (squint!) alone and contemplate such important topics as how to pay for grad school without selling my soul or organs and how pretty the mountains are. Obviously the second topic is the preferred modus operendi. And it's not hard to focus on.
Wrapped up as I am in school and city life it's easy to forget how beautiful the country side of Korea can be.

Spaz update: (Aside from the ankle twisting)

Hot pepper Sun Chips were on sale today at E-mart. From the sign I was able to understand that if you bought 4 the 5th was free. What I missed  was that I was supposed to put the items in this little plastic bag that had a barcode on it. I had elected to skip the bag thinking I'd save on some plastic since they were all going in my canvas shopping tote. At the register the young clerk couldn't ring it up because there wasn't a sale barcode. I tried to explain that it was the sale item and I think he understood me (I could have been saying something else of course with my typical ability to butcher the pronunciation into something indecent) so he called over another sales clerk to ask how much they were but the other guy was as baffled as he was.  So they called over a THIRD person (managerial looking) who looked at me and kind of gave me the 'seriously' look and then told the boys to go get a bar code bag. They told me to wait a moment (in Korean) and I apologized and turned bright red.  Turning bright red might not seem like a big deal but I only blush about once or twice a year. I think the fact that I'm just such a spaz on a daily basis makes  it take a lot more to embarrass me to the point of actuallyblushing. Being lost or confused in the grocery store isn't something new for me in Korea but I think that understanding that the clerks thought I was a total fool pushed my embarrassment index over the edge.

2 minutes later at the pharmacy I was so flustered that I forgot the Korean word for 'peach' and had to try to point to the box of vitamins I wanted. At least the pharmacist was nice about it.

Mostly Koreans are very nice to me. For instance, when debating with my friend about which stop to get off at the man behind us on the bus told us he was getting off at Naewansa and would show us where to go. Koreans are generally awesome, sometimes I just fail.

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