From Asian to Caucasian: Response From a Reader
Apparently the Chengdu authorities’ approach to street food is conducted with all the subtleness of a bulldozer in a hutong. Recent years have seen many vendors either shut down or forced to move inside. What's left is sparsely scattered through the city, with most of what's on offer limited to a few artificially constructed "food streets" close to the main tourist hotspots.
That's not to say the food there is bad. Skewered quail had been cooked, glazed and deep-fried (the latter perhaps to make the bones softer) and tasted of five spices.
On the non-street food front Chengdu has much to recommend itself. Nearly everything you order comes loaded with fantastically mouth-numbing Sichuan peppers and hot chill’s. Top of the pile is of course the legendary hot pot, an outstanding act of masochism that will leave you wincing but going back for more.
Yesterday morning we got up at the crack of dawn to catch a bus from Udomxai to Luangprabang. We grabbed a breakfast of traditonal Lao noodle soup, but despite its great flavor, it just didn't satisfy. So, at the bus station, I decided to grab a snack to tide me over.
Now THAT looks tasty.
Big and juicy...
I don't know, man...
But I did take the plunge and eat several big bites of roasted rat. And not only was it roasted, it was also stuffed with onions and herbs, though the guts were not removed, and smushed out of the side when I squeezed.
How did it taste? Really really gamey and rat-like. Stringy. Pretty much as you'd expect a rat to taste. There were still traces of fur around the feet and head, and even some red rodent blood in the meat.
It became clear early on that I wouldn't finish the delicacy, so I handed it to a Lao guy next to me, who promptly dug in, but not without giving me the legs first, which evidently are the tastiest bits.
He in turn had a few bites and gave the rest to an old lady selling fried dough, who in turn wrapped it up and SAVED IT FOR LATER.
Mmm-mmm good!
Eating rat reminds me of a section from Monty Python's "Dead Bishop Sketch:"
K: Wha's for afters?
M: Rat cake, rat sorbet, rat pudding, or strawberry tart.
K: (eyes lighting up) Strawberry tart?
M: Well, it's got some rat in it.
K: 'Ow much?
M: Three. Rather a lot, really.
K: Well, I'll have a slice without so much rat in it.
Voice over: One slice of strawberry tart without so much rat in it later:
K: (putting down fork and knife) Appalling.
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