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Passport - or Fortune Teller?

My passport ......



she is a small thing of intense beauty that has been lovingly toted around the world to many wonderful places in her own special red leather case. She is very special. However, she will expire in April, which for those of you not counting is 5 months from now. Many countries require that your passport be valid at least 6 months after your scheduled departure date .... Taiwan is apparently quite strict about such things as I learned when I tried to book a last minute ticket to Taipei a few days ago. However - I think my passport may have had my best interests at heart because look what happened in Taipei last night ...

Then again, nobody was seriously injured and I missed the chance to experience my first earthquake.

I still love you.








On the Back of a Scooter, Soju in Hand

On the back of a scooter, soju in hand, we zipped across speed humps over narrow side roads behind buildings on our way to the apartment.

It was the first time I had ever been any substantial distance on a motored bike. I was trying to branch out, meet people, get to know those I'd drank with at Zio Ricco on Wednesdays. Some of them were hanging out at a house on the other side of the Hadaedong district, where I lived. I think they were in the same district. Time blurs the lines a bit.

It was cold, I do remember that. I remember the haze, that constant companion floating under street lights, a dirty mist. Korea being the size it is (really small) with as many people it has (a whole lot) who drive cars (also a lot) and who worship at the temple of technology, it's easy to see why there would be a slick of pollution to coat everyone and everything.

The soju is cheap there. It should be, that's where it comes from. A sort of watered down vodka, it's easy to drink, even easier to get a hangover because it's so easy to drink. Some claim there's more to it than its easy to drink abilities. Some even say it carries slight hallucinogenic properties like absinthe. Three bucks (3,000 won. Who knows how the currency conversion has changed since 2005) gets you three bottles. That and a pack of Dunhills and I was ready to go.

One of the other teachers, we'll call him "Elliot" because I honestly cannot remember his name and will likely never, said he'd pick me up from the main road because directing me through the backroads to the apartment could get a bit confusing. I grabbed my booze, my smokes, my coat and headed outside.

Did nature once live in Jinju, South Korea? Of course it did; it lived everywhere at some time or another in history. But, in many parts of this mid-sized city (350,000 is by accounts rather diminutive for South Korea), nature has long since been swept underneath concrete, asphalt and steel. Sure, there's Jinju Castle, there's the outskirts, where Bettina and I walked and found ourselves at a roadside restaurant that also had bungee diving from 50 feet up in the backyard. But, in Hadaedong, there were a lot of buildings, a lot of roads, and its own peculiar, mysterious charm. I would like to go back today and explore it thoroughly.

Smoking is hard when you're freezing, and one hand is holding a paper bag with booze, the other trying to keep its grip on the cigarette. Shivering most of the way, I passed by the "toastie" place, the little fast food restaurant that makes sweet tasting egg sandwiches on white toast. I remember sitting inside the small, white, plastic-y eatery while the kind middle-aged woman made my sandwich, her husband offering up a bit of small talk in what little English he could muster. I returned the courtesy with as much Korean as I could muster, which wasn't much. The circular heater, resembling an oscillating fan with a heating coil in place of a fan blade, buzzed and whirred heat onto its recipients, myself, the husband, the woman and their teenage child. Most people went up to the window on the side of the restaurant to order their sandwiches.

I passed by the bike shop, where I'd paid $60 (60,000 won) for a pretty nice bike. It was a bit heavy, certainly a lot heavier than what I had rode back in the States, but it was solid, and certainly good enough to transport me and Estevez on a great trip around Jinju, which led us to Shinandong, the movie theater, and a viewing of War of the Worlds that rattled my already tenuously hinged brain.

Getting to the intersection for the main road that sliced through this part of Jinju and over the bridge to parts unknown took only about five minutes. Nothing else besides those two businesses really interested me. There was the school I taught at, the high school adjacent to it, the P.C. Bang at the end of the road, the bread shop next to it, and the chicken place that sold, like every other chicken place, significantly overpriced food, but the rest of the unnamed road was relatively uninteresting. At least that's how I perceived it at the time.

I crossed the highway and walked into the light of a Hyundai-operated gas station, waiting for a few minutes before "Elliot" puttered up on his scooter. I hopped on, clutched my soju in one hand, his waist in the other as we sped off on my first motored bike ride over narrow roads behind buildings, on our way to the apartment.

~ originally written July 4, 2007; revised Dec. 19, 2009

*

We arrived at the apartment.

I had attempted to consume as much information as possible about Korea before I left the States. One thing that had continuously come up in travel guides, blog entries and other forms on Internet information was that, like Japan and other modern Asian countries, space was at a premium. There wasn't a one-child limit in Korea like there is in Japan (is it? Or is it China? And is there a limit in Korea that I am not aware of? I don't think so), but there were cars driving both ways on roads smaller than one-ways in the United States, and by all accounts my second-floor loft was a pretty nice size. But, here was an apartment fit for a king, or, at least, three western English teachers. Multiple bathrooms, multiple rooms, multiple floors?! It would not be until I visited Patrick and Sarah's apartment soon after in Shinandong that I thought this to be a rarity among rarities in South Korea. It's still probably rare.

I met a man at this little gathering who, for all my memories, did not seem a bad sort. I remember him being tall, somewhat handsome in a sun-bleached blond bum kind of look. Ladies seemed to like him for his easygoing personality. But, if you asked me to point him out in the perp walk, the man would go free. And yet, it was on this night a seed in my mind would be planted where, for some reason, I would not like him and I would for some reason think he was horning in on my attempt at forgetting home, forgetting R., and forgetting about trying to make a break for it, a midnight run, out of South Korea.

One night -- it could have been that night, I don't remember hanging out with that group all that much during my brief stay there, a group of us went out for a late night noraebang session. Most of us were pretty loaded, loud, uncouth foreigners. We love Korea's odd singing rooms, we do.

I loved them. It had only been about a year since Margaux had convinced me, at some lame hotel bar in Maryland, to just get up and sing karaoke. Who cared? What did it matter? I was in a bar in Maryland surrounded by drunks. Why should I be embarrassed? I sang Dave Matthews Band's "The Space Between" and the rest was history.

On this night in Jinju, South Korea, my song would be HIM's "The Funeral of Hearts." I was very fond of goth metal at this point, and still to this day, HIM's "Killing Loneliness" can take me back to South Korea because I played it so damn much while I was there. Four years later, it never fails.

I picked the song and, when it came up to my turn, began to sing. I think I have a pretty decent voice and, being as drunk and sensitive as I was, thought the ladies in the room would agree. "Isn't he so sensitive? And such a good singer! Let us welcome him into our group. Let's make his stay in this foreign country more agreeable!"

No one paid attention. Everyone was paying attention to that sun-bleached dude. Were they? Was he even there? Was he out of the room, taking a leak? Were they not paying attention to him but flipping through the song book? Working on some dried squid and a can of Hite? My memory tells me I was being ignored. I know it's pretty false; everything else about that night I remember, have written about or have not written about, is just a series of snapshots held so tenuously together by suggestions or outright fabrications, if someone were to question whether or not I was even in the room, I would not argue too deliberately against them.

My song finished and, for some reason, I stepped outside. I think we were waiting for someone and I volunteered to stand in the drizzling rain for them because, as anyone who has been to Korea knows, addresses are pretty hard to come by there. Plus, my fragile ego needed a moment alone. I smoked my Dunhill's or Esse's, thinking about the sleight I had received. How could they possibly not notice my talent? Could someone just please give me a reason to stay in this goddamn country, please?

The rain bouncing off the gray buildings on this downtown Jinju side road lent the scene a rather eerie quality. It's a shame I was so inside my head to mark it at the time. It's a shame I didn't try to get to know those people more. I'm sure the sun-bleached hair dude was not a bad guy. Not that I could have possibly noticed.

—John Dunphy

It Must be That Time of Year

I've reached that point in my stunted emotional development where I start to think that coming back would be a good idea. It really wouldn't be. At least, not without trying something else first. I know that. Still. It would be nice if what is best would coordinate with what is easy for once.



Lusting After Teenagers…or the Maturing of Women’s Fan Culture?


When living at home forces young Koreans to keep their sexual encounters a secret, it’s no great surprise that Korean society strongly discourages open expressions of sexuality outside of marriage.

In particular, rare expressions of assertive female sexuality in the media seem to get parodied until they lose all their impact, if they’re not banned outright. And from teenagers? Simply unthinkable, despite abundant evidence of their sexual activity.

Which is not to say that they don’t exist. Rather, that while most Koreans will readily admit the sexual nature to, say, the clothing and dance moves of a 20 year-old female singer (at least privately), they will probably be much more reluctant to do so if she is 16.

Don’t get me wrong: regardless of their age, I think it’s perfectly natural to feel sexually-attracted to a fully-developed member of the opposite sex (acting on that attraction, however, is a different matter). Deny that sexual element though, and there are are few social inhibitions against grown men expressing their liking of teen members of girl groups like Girls’ Generation or the Wondergirls and so on.

Or are there? While 46 year-old Mr. Kim has no qualms about waxing lyrical about Girl’s Generation on the front cover of Metro newspaper above, I doubt that he would be quite so forthcoming in real life, nobody really fooled that his interest was entirely asexual. And only skimming the first few paragraphs when I first saw it, highlighting that subtext was my original intention in translating this article for you. After all, in just the third sentence you have him denying that he has a “Lolita complex.”

But actually the article is about how middle-aged Korean men and women are increasingly dominating young celebrities’ fan clubs instead. And as I’ll explain, this struck a chord with me because of what I’ve already read about women’s fan clubs earlier this decade.

Unfortunately I can’t speak for the male fan clubs, which I’ve never studied. But in short, I think that the demographic shift within Korean fan culture described is genuine, and so I’ve decided to make this post a discussion of the reasons for the shift that the article lacks. But first, the article itself:

Middle-aged People are Head Over Heels about Young Idols

( Source )

Fan Culture is Changing

#1. Mr. Kim (46), a department manager of a medium-sized business, knows the names and personalities of all 9 members of Girls’ Generation. He thinks that the Wondergirls and 2NE1 do not even come close in terms of purity and class. He dismisses accusations of having a Lolita complex, and says that watching the girls of Girls’ Generation, who are about the same age as his daughter, give him a feeling of life and vitality.

#2. Film company CEO Mrs. Kim (39), suffered severe depression after her movie did extremely badly 2 years ago. But she was able to recover because of her interest in male idol groups, and when she analyzes the charms of members of 2PM, or discusses the potential for the new group MBLAQ, she is indistinguishable from an expert in the music industry. Her dream is to make a movie like Attack on the Pin-up Boys (2007) that Super Junior starred in.

Middle-aged People Are Actively Participating in Fan Clubs

As the name implies, “older brother” fan club members used to be mainly teenagers, but this is no longer the case. But as active consumers of culture, middle-aged women passionate about flower men‘ and middle-aged men heavily into girl groups are actively changing fan culture.

For instance, on flower man Lee Min-ho’s fan club “Dave,” there is an “older sister” section of  for 30-50 year old women to exchange information about their star, and when there are fan meetings with him they make up over 80% of the audience. And whenever SS501 (James: if you don’t want to show your age, say “double-ess” rather than “ess-ess”!) have a concert in Korea or attend some event in their region, their middle-aged female fans prepare packed lunches with healthy foods such as red ginseng for them.

( Source )

And whenever there is an event featuring Rain, his middle-aged female fans call the media and request favorable coverage. Before the release of his first Hollywood movie Ninja Assassin (2009), they even delivered rice-cakes to them, a symbol of good luck for a new venture.

Indeed, it has become quite normal to only allow women older than the flower men themselves to join their fan clubs. And this is true for male-only fan clubs for female idols too. In the Girls’ Generation’s “Girls’ Generation’s Party” and the Wondergirls’ “Wonderful” fan clubs for instance, middle-aged men have regular virtual meetings where they exchange opinions about how the groups can progress and thoroughly how they can celebrate group anniversaries and birthdays and so on.

A New Fan Culture is Actively Forming

Many people have dim views of middle-aged men and women who don’t act their age, dismissing them as merely chasing after their lost youth. But an alternate view is that this demographic shift in membership is an inevitable change.

Professor Tak Hyeon-min, on sabbatical in the Cultural Contents Department of Hanyang University, said “People of the 386 Generation, who have finally established their own unique culture, are used to actively absorbing new things,” and that “from their 20s until now, they have demonstrated that they are the biggest consumers and purchasers of cultural products.”

Also, “members of this generation are stuck with heavy family, home, and/or social responsibilities, so as a means of escapism and renewing themselves, they have created a middle-aged fandom in a sense, fundamentally changing Korean fan-club culture in the process.” (end)

( “Oooh! Whatever shall we strut around in hotpants to sell next?” Source )

Now, the reasons for this shift? Well, I’d wager that most 30-something members of the female ones were also active “Red Devils” during the World Cup of 2002.

Granted, that sounds obvious. But for those that witnessed it, 2002 was a simply amazing time to be young and in Korea. And as it turned out, a watershed in Korean sexual politics too, primarily because of the unprecedented participation of women.

It is the factors that made that participation possible that makes this cohort of women so interesting. For they appear to be applying the same lessons to fan clubs today.

Consider how before the World Cup began, soccer was considered an exclusively male sport, and a rather dull and unglamorous one at that. Members of the national team even made less money than I did as an English teacher.

Within a few short weeks however, Koreans turned out on the streets in their millions to watch their team’s games on giant TV screens across the country. And – crucially – not only were two-thirds of them women, and their restrictions on the amount of skin they could publicly display suddenly lifted, but the male players’ bodies were transformed into a product for their consumption also.

True, this did build on trends already existing in music videos in the late-1990s, but only with the World Cup did it suddenly became socially acceptable to discuss men’s bodies in the media like men already did of women’s.

As an aside, please note that this is not contradicting what I said in the introduction about expressions of sexuality being restricted in the Korean media though. There are still limits, all too easy to overlook if a particular cultural product is studied devoid of its context.

For instance, consider one recent manifestation of the male objectification sparked by the World Cup, a commercial involving women admiring the abs of a half-naked male singer on a poster, then poking them to see if they are real. While it may appear rather “Western” though, one will struggle in vain to find references in the Korean media to what one might actually want to do with an attractive male singers or his abs. Similarly, consider how the Korean language has readily adopted the English word “sexy,” but is frequently used in ways that are completely devoid of anything remotely sexual (sometimes perversely so), or how it can even be quite a trial to get many Koreans to publicly admit that a women thrusting her buttocks in your face on television can be sexual.

To be fair, Korean films are rather different. And all that is not to say that the Western media is replete with discussions à la Sex and the City either. But sexual liberation in the Korean media is very much just a veneer, and it is important not to overestimate the extent of the changes I describe. Indeed, I could go on and point out how in 2002 Korean women could still not publicly discuss foreign men’s bodies in the same way they suddenly could for Korean men’s for instance (the Korean media laughing at Japanese women for doing so), and even today it is extremely rare to see foreign male-Korean female relationships in the Korean media. Also, while standards of dress for women did indeed change permanently, many people that had tolerated crop-tops, say, during the World Cup, were less willing to do so once they were no longer in the service of a national cause.

But rather than diminishing from Korean women’s achievements in 2002, perhaps these limits demonstrate just how remarkable it was that women effected any change at all?

Apologies for the whirlwind tour of 2002 I’ve provided so far, but that’s because I have already discussed it at great length here, which also has a list of the sources if you’re interested. It is one of those – Hyun-Mee Kim, “Feminization of the 2002 World Cup and Women’s Fandom” in Feminist Cultural Politics in Korea, ed. by Jung-Hwa Oh, 2005, pp. 228-243 – that I rely heavily on for the examination of oppa budae (오빠부대), or “squads of teenage female fans” that is my focus for the remainder of this post.

She notes that in 2002, one’s support for soccer was interpreted differently depending on one’s age and gender, and the dominant opinion on women’s sudden enthusiasm for it was that due simply to the male stars. As such, they were easily looked down upon as ppasnsuni (판순이), slang for female teens chasing after male entertainers, and often denounced by the media as “being subordinate to the stars and used for the commercial strategy of the management companies.” But this Frankfurt School reading of the relationship between the media and the consumer, which I’ve discussed in another context here, is a gross oversimplification:

Just because these women go fanatical over the male entertainers, it does not mean that they are blind followers, and the power relations between many of the women fans and the male stars are not fixed, but rather multivocal and dynamic. Looking at only the images represented in the Korean media with no information about the politics of fandom, these women in their teens and their 20s seem like reckless followers. But this World Cup provided a momentum for a new interpretation….(pp. 231-232)

Also:

Actually to the women fans, heterosexual desire and social activism are not separate….consumers of mass culture and followers of stars are carrying out “civil movements” within their social conditions through efforts such as fan club activities. Even if they may have initially become fans because they were attracted to the images and appearances of the soccer players, the woman fans create regulations and change the culture in the process of forming their identities as fans.

Usually, fans of a popular star wield a collective “power,” which helps the pop star to climb the ladder from being an “entertainer” to being a “star,” and this power is formed through certain rules and negotiations. This is why to have an identity as a fan is to consciously to learn specific behaviors.  For an oppa budae to demonstrate its power as a budae (squad), individual fans must train their actions and languages in an organized and systematic was. They must wear the same clothes, shout the same slogans, and show contained passion. Therefore, “fandom,” which signifies the identity as a fan of a star, is not something that is formed or practised abruptly. (p. 232)

And she gives further examples of the often considerable time and effort one must invest to become a respected member of an oppa buddae, also noting that collectively, they try to maintain “grace” in the face of attacks from other fan clubs and so on. Of course that is not always the case, as 2PM’s fans recently attacking Ivy for having the temerity to arouse…er…member Nikhun during a joint performance recently demonstrates. But that is an exception, and most importantly, it is not so much a description of female members of the Red Devils as what they brought with them to that group:

“Not a small number…have had this experience of fandom as teenagers and 20-somethings and have imitated and practiced basic actions that are required to root for and support stars. By devoting themselves to such efforts that demand time and money, fans not only consume image of stars, but also become acquainted with a certain “civil spirit” in the process of embodying fandom….the codes and action trained and familiarized by women fans in their teens and 20s were grafted onto the cheering culture of the Red Devils…(p. 233, my emphasis)

Bear in mind that the internet component of civil society is not to be underestimated in a country with such a recent experience of democratization, that relationships between 30-something women and 20-something women have become popular in Korean cinema over the past decade, and that – to paraphrase Hyun-Mee Kim – when women manifestly lack political and economic power in Korea, that they will gravitate towards displays of resistance and subversiveness in those arenas that they can affect a measure of change.

In which case, is it any wonder that nearly a decade later, the she-devils of 2002 would come to dominate fan clubs of male idols again?

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Posted in Korean Children and Teenagers, Korean Demographics, Korean Media, Korean Men's Body Images, Korean Sexuality, Korean Translations, Korean Women's Body Images Tagged: 2NE1, 2PM, 비, Girls' Generation, 소녀시대, 판순이, 오빠부대, 원더걸스, 이민호, Lee Min-ho, MBLAQ, Ninja Assassin, Rain, SS501, The Wondergirls, Wondergirls
  

 

On ATEK, forming a teachers union, and what you can do

A couple of stories about foreign English teachers forming a union made some headlines earlier this month. Some encouraging words from the Korea Herald article:

According to the Yeonsu District Office in Incheon, five natives of English-speaking countries working at a language academy as English teachers received permission for union establishment on Nov. 24.

"The teachers met the requirements for union foundation as they all held work visas and signed up for national health insurance," said an official of the district office.

It was the second time that foreign nationals alone have set up a labor union in Korea.

Back in 2005, a group of English teachers working at an institute in southern Seoul established the nation's first one of its kind.

In the same year, 91 immigrant workers attempted to form a trade union, but the ministry did not approve it as most of them were staying here illegally.

Considering the growing number of English-native teachers and that most of them are contract workers, observers say that more unions will be organized by them.

Yesterday (nine days after the Herald's story broke), ATEK sent out a press release passing on some information regarding legal insurance and how to form a union at your school, if you so choose. From Evan Lloyd, the president of the Incheon school's union:
The second teacher’s union was approved by the Korean authorities on November 24th. This union is the result of months of collaborative action by five Native English Teachers and Jung Bongsoo, an attorney at the Kangnam Labor Law Firm.

We saw the formation of our labor union as the best way to achieve positive, stable and normal working conditions and to improve employee/employer relations.
First off, congrats on starting a union of foreign teachers, and having the courage / interest to see it through to the end. That it's been done twice now means there will hopefully be some publicized guidelines to help a group of teachers do it at their school as well. Supposedly there are laws in Korea against firing someone solely because they're organizing - but then again, there's also laws against pirating DVD's among many other things.

This begins to raise the question of how these unions can either A: work together, or B: help in forming new ones across the country. There's also the question of what role, if any, ATEK will have in their creation or running. As of right now, that role seems limited to information dissemination:
ATEK, which consists of over 1000 members, is a primarily web based support network for foreign teachers in Korea. One of ATEK 's key roles is to collect and distribute information to foreign teachers, primarily information to which they might not otherwise have access. In this instance, ATEK was able to suggest a labor law firm to one of our members which resulted in the firm creating a Legal Assurance package for the member and his co-workers.
Not another hub, please! OK, seriously, ATEK, it took nine days (counting from when the Herald's article posted online) to put together a press release that was mainly the union president talking? You "suggested" a labor law firm - who then took the ball and ran with it, creating a package that they may sell to someone else. The "information to which they [teachers] might not otherwise have access [to]" is freely hosted at http://k-labor.com/tiki-galleries.php on the labor law firm's website.

It may prove to the employer that you're serious about being treated with respect. It might even get enough attention drawn to said school from the government is forced to step in and clean things up. This is still the country where local teacher unions can't always get satisfaction, where protests disrupting the heart of Seoul for months arguably didn't change much, and where foreigners are prohibited from political activity.

If you want to form a union at your school, consider three very important factors before acting:
  • Know what you're getting yourself into. Unions have to be willing to take collective action (e.g. demand, strike) to ensure their threats aren't empty.
  • Unions are, by definition, a group-oriented thing. The teacher that's leaving in two months won't be around to be the group's president, and the teachers just here for a one-year tour may not provide enough stability to keep the group going. You'll need to be unanimous (or at least 90% together) to truly have collective power.
  • A legal victory is not necessarily an actual victory. By the time you've 'won' a judgment against a school, it may be more of a Pyrrhic victory. Being able to collect on it (or garnish some of the school's property) is potentially another uphill battle.
Assuming you've considered these things, it may be time to talk to your fellow teachers. What grievances do they have with the school? Have the issues been brought to the powers-that-be? Is there any indication that said issues might be resolved without forming a union? The union option is much more a final option than the first one to employ, as it will probably require more time and effort than you expect. It's worth the time to air things out, see what can worked out before doing something more serious. That it also permanently changes the relationship between school and teachers must be considered as well.

If you've reached that more serious point, consider calling Jung Bong-soo, the lawyer with the Kangnam Labor Law Firm that got the above-mentioned union started. E-mail [email protected] or use this contact form on their website. I don't know him personally, and I have no idea how his fees work; since they've made it work once before, I would presume they could look back at their notes to facilitate something along the same lines.

Whatever the case may be, there are plenty of options that exist beyond putting up with the status quo. You have to make things work for yourself - just like jobs back in your home country and everywhere else in the world. Don't assume your employer is always looking out for your best interests - and their interests are typically quite different from yours.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2009

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

This Little Piggy Went to Kindergarten…


( Source: All Size Wallpapers )

Apologies for the 6-day hiatus everyone: my 3 year-old daughter Alice caught Swine Flu from someone in her kindergarten earlier last week, then my 1 year-old daughter Elizabeth from her, then my wife. Frankly, I’m amazed that I haven’t caught it myself yet.

Testament to my eating a clove of garlic everyday since November? Who needed friends anyway…

Seriously though, naturally I was a little worried when I first heard the news about Alice on Monday, and especially Elizabeth on Wednesday, small for her age. But fortunately all 3 are almost better (my daughters were put on Tamiflu), although Elizabeth is still coughing a little.

Meanwhile, now that things have settled at home, I’m able to concentrate on catching up with writing posts and responding comments and emails and so on. That will take a lot of work though, so I’ve decided to skip adding more by forgoing this week’s open thread sorry. Merry Christmas until the next one on the 26th though!^^

p.s. For those of you wondering when my Korean Gender Reader posts will restart, apologies for the delays, and that will be on Monday the 4th!

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Posted in Admin, Announcements, Child Raising in Korea

Life in Korea: Buying presents for people back home

Unless you have plans to return to your home country for the holiday season (happy ChristmaHanukKwanzikuh to you, by the way), buying - and shipping - presents is the likely way to get your gifts home in time for the holidays.

While you know your parents and friends better than I do, here are some suggestions for making their Christmas a Korean one - and yours an easier one. Before purchasing, shop around. The same thing will cost 20% less (or more) at other places around town.

While Dongdaemun and Namdaemun are fairly well-known as tourist traps, they're decent place to pick up something for everyone. Even Itaewon can be a decent place to pick something up if you're priced them elsewhere. Things with hangeul will seem silly to us, but your parents might enjoy explaining it as a secret code.

Many things of a Buddhist nature are well-priced (meaning not expensive), and are easily obtained at a temple. Look for a set of prayer beads or an English book if they're interested in the religion, or some incense if they're not. Bongeunsa (across from the COEX mall) and Jogyesa in downtown Seoul have two of the best gift shops.

A book about Korean culture or history often makes a decent gift. Even a blogger like myself has paid money to get a better handle on Korean history during my time here. While there are many worth reading, check out the selections at almost any Kyobo or Bandi and Luni's bookstore. The biggest B&L is is in COEX mall, though the Kyobo bookstore in downtown Seoul is quite nice as well.

Pictures of yourself - especially if thoughtfully taken, printed, and sent - are usually welcomed by parents that haven't seen you in awhile.

Food, candy, or other Korean edibles - take care that it's not too strange.

A few things to avoid purchasing:

Seaweed
- unless they've been to this side of the Pacific or are as adventurous as you, they probably won't get it. Add kimchi to that list too - if they insist on trying some, tell them to find the nearest Korean restaurant where they live.

Breakable, fragile, or heavy stuff. The same reasons you wouldn't mail ceramic or glass dishes across your home country also apply here.

PIrated DVD's - Customs has this weird habit of opening and inspecting packages. Enclose it in less obvious packaging if season 3 of 'Prison Break' is the only thing your cousin wants.

In the meantime, hit 'repeat' on that classic version of "I'll be Home for Christmas" you know you have on your MP3 player. Merry Christmas.

Readers: What are you sending home? Comments are open.


Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2009

Destination: Ice skating at Gwanghwamun Plaza


This year's skating option for the masses has opened in downtown Seoul for the winter season. Gwanghwamun Plaza is not nearly as large as, say, Lotte World's skating rink, but 1,000 won (about $0.80 USD) for admission and skate rental is hard to beat.


Night skating is fairly well-lit - and also when you'll see the larger crowds. The area was mostly cordoned off during the recent Big Air snowboarding festival, but on weekdays is less busy than the weekends. It's open fairly late - until 10pm on the weekdays and 11pm on the weekends or holidays.


One of the ubiquitous photo booths - surprisingly set up off the ice for pictures while on the ice. You can either get a friend to push the button or run around a side gate to the left and run back onto the ice in time for the picture.



The mythical haechi apparently skates as well.

Setup for both the locals and tourists, it's well-built and well-designed. English signage is everywhere, and plenty of facilities are nearby before and after skating. That you're in downtown Seoul means you're near Cheonggyecheon, Deoksugung, the Story of King Sejong Museum, and any number of restaurants or coffee shops. If you've been in Seoul for a long time there isn't anything new here, but it's definitely an incremental improvement from last year.

The rink is expected to stay open until February 15, 2010. Some skating classes are available from 9am-11am everyday; 10,000 won gets an hour of instruction and an hour of free skating. Check out www.seoulskate.or.kr for online booking, but I'd expect the lesson to be in Korean.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:


Directions: Take line 5 of the Seoul subway system to the Gwanghwamun station. Take exit 2 to street level, then cross the street towards the plaza (the middle part of the road separating the flow of traffic). Gyeongbokgung station on line 3 also stops nearby - take exit 6 to get to the plaza. Open from 10am - 10pm Monday-Thursday, from 10am-11pm on holidays and weekends . Admission 1,000 won per one-hour session, includes skate rental.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2009

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

Accounts

The balance carried over = 24,210 won

28 November
3,000 won for postage * 7 (Eunjin, Thomas, Will, John, Jason, Moon, Inseong) = 21,000 won : incomings

2 December
12 letters = 7,100 won : outgoings

The balance = 38,110 won

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