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Weekend in Hwagae, Part I


When my sister and brother-in-law visited Korea, they wanted to spend some time outside of Busan to see a little more of the country. For Shane and I, it would be our first trip outside the confines of a metro area in six months.

We boarded the intercity bus at the Seobu terminal, at the Sasang subway stop.  Two and a half hours and one transfer in Hadong later, our at times harrowing ride came to its conclusion in Hwagae (화개). Hwagae is a town I would have known nothing about, except for this great article.          
                                
                                                                                                          
The four of us, not knowing how to get from the terminal to the hanok we’d be staying at, hopped in a taxi and showed the driver our destination’s address. He pulled out of the parking lot. We traveled one hundred yards and got stuck in traffic for seven minutes. Then, we traveled another one hundred yards. When we arrived, the bus terminal was still visible from our current position. I’m fairly certain he and the three other taxi drivers in town had a good laugh at us for the rest of the day.                                                                                   
                                                                                                            
We laughed too. No matter. The hanok was beautiful. The friendly owner showed us to our rooms, one building of several on the premises. Inside smelled of cedar. The paper covered windows opened to reveal Hwagae village below, buildings no more than five stories lining both sides the river

Crystal, Nick, Shane, and I walked down to the village. We joined the many tourists there that sunshiny Saturday afternoon, families and couples enjoying a day out in the country. 
                                                  
The town’s central attraction, a sizable but not sprawling outdoor market, has been by far one of my favorite markets I’ve seen so far. Hwagae is known for its green tea, so it’s no surprise that many shops sell ceramic teacups, pots, and tea. I sampled dried persimmon, Shane watched a blacksmith at work making trowels. Hwagae’s tourist info center provided us with a map (in English) and a festival and attraction brochure (in Korean).                                                                                              
                                                                                                          
We grew fatigued as the afternoon wore on, so we knew what we had to do. We stopped in one of the two mini-supermarkets we could find and loaded our arms with beer and Hwagae-brewed makgeolli. Back at the hanok, we sat on the porch and watched the sunset over the mountains, enjoying our drinks, and all was right with the world. An awkward moment ensued when the guesthouse owner invited us into his home for tea, told us he used to look like James Bond when he was younger, and then left us to supervise some construction outside, us sitting there wondering if he was going to return or not.  Eventually, we decided he was not going to come back. 



Later that evening, we grabbed some galbi for dinner and later still, we watched the stars come out over the mountains of Hwagae.

Destination: Vagina Monologues

 

Above: Cassie Andrews, Christine Shea, and Courtney M. Askins in the intro.

Because you can never have enough vaginas in your life! The Vagina Monologues is known around the world as any number of things: an expression of a body part, a theatrical production, an opportunity to raise awareness on any number of issues, or a chance to hear a woman scream a four letter word I dare not repeat here. This particular production, brought to you by the people at vdayseoul.com, raised money for KUMFA (Korea Unwed Mothers and Families Association) and was presented in both Korean and English. A helpful Teleprompter-like screen enabled the reading of the language not being spoken – from what I was told, a good deal of effort went into the Korean translation to make it understandable by the 20%-25% of locals in the audience.

Shannon Hughes doing the intro for ‘Hair’.

Sujin Choi (최수진) performing ‘Hair’ – an interesting take on the hair ‘down there’.

Two of the five from the ‘Wear and Say lists’.

Cheonghwa Cha (차청화) performing the part of an old lady talking about ‘The Flood’.

Ada Smith and and Michelle Kozlowski discussing ‘The Vagina Workshop’.

Minjoo Kim (김민주) performing ‘Because He Liked to Look At It’.

Bre’Shae Pittman, the co-organizer of the event doing the intro to ‘Say it’, a monologue calling for the Japanese government to apologize over the treatment of ‘Comfort Women’.

During the intermission, a number of volunteers had a little bit of everything for sale – everything from t-shirts to vagina-shaped chocolates.

One half of the ‘My Angry Vagina’ – Taray Denkins and Krystal Nesbitt (not pictured) got one of the louder applauses on one of the more entertaining performances.

‘My Vagina Was My Village’ by Maria Gonzalez.

Derrika Hunt performing ‘The Little Coochi Snorcher That Could’ – seriously, who thought up this name?

"‘Reclaiming Cunt’ by Mitzi – performing the highlight piece of the night.

‘A six-year-old girl was asked’ by Eunkyung Lee (이은경) and Beth Conry (not pictured) – short and a bit random – what should a six-year-old say about her vagina anyway?

The closest thing to visual titillation in the play – Amber Green holds the whip and wears the leather; not pictured are Cassie Andrews, Krystal Stok, and Christine Shea doing some of the moaning.

On Myriam Merlet – the 2011 Spotlight Monologue, performed by Tracie Holmes.

As the show came to a close, organizer Kathryn Bokyung Park (박보경), and co-organizer Bre’Shae Pittman teared up a bit while asking those that have been sexually assaulted (or those who know someone who’s been assaulted) to stand.

This being my first Vagina Monologues experience, I couldn’t comment on the accuracy of the monologues. The theatrical production was spot on – no problems with microphones that I heard (being on the front row, however, means I heard the performers without amplification), great job with the Teleprompter-like screen translation, and a professional job with the lights.

 

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe – 2011
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

True Korean Stories by Bravo

This is a work of Friction.  I mean, Fiction.  I don't know what I mean.  All's I know is
This is an excerpt from the follow up to my Culturebook Book Two:  My Youth in Asia
The following is an unedited excerpt from a piece entitled: Book Three: Culturebook Unity


May 15, 2009

 

It’d been 2 years to the day since I first began working and living on Cheju Island, located less than 50 miles south of the South Korean mainland. Before moving to Cheju Island I’d already spent a decade living and working on the South Korean mainland.  Here on the island, I taught English in Public Schools, side by side with a Korean English teacher, working for EPIK: the government agency in charge of placing foreign language teachers in Public Schools. EPIK: English Program in Korea. 

Two years of my life I spent working for EPIK on Cheju Island, sometimes spelt Jeju Island. It was the end of my second one year contract. I worked at one elementary school exclusively for the first 9 months, then, two high schools for a semester and summer; then 2 different high schools for the last 9 months. EPIK was a pretty good job, but it was finished and I had to go. EPIK was NOT going to renew my contract.

 

It didn’t matter much that I WASN’T being offered a contract to re-sign, that some of my higher ups were glad to see me go, that cordiality didn’t exist between myself and certain Province of Education staff named Memberia Kim. I didn’t like her either. I didn’t like any of them. I was ready to resign. Still, if they’d offered me a 3rd contract, I would have re-signed.

 

EPIK didn’t offer to re-sign me cuz of what happened the last time, the first time, I was in Nepal.

 

I’d gone trekking in Nepal for the first time in January, 4 months prior, for vacation. There, I met some Korean trekkers from the mainland, up on the lower Annapurna circuit; and one night while sharing the same mountain guesthouse, they broke out some soju in juice boxes; so we got beers and drank together and spoke a bunch in English and Korean. There were a dozen of us from all over the world, some heading up the mountain, some down, all staying at the same guesthouse the same night in the small mountain hamlet called Ghorepani. I introduced myself to the two 30ish male Koreans and I told them I live in Cheju and work at a high school there. 

 

Big mistake! 

 

Apparently, not only did the two men allege that they witnessed me sharing a doobie with a Singapore man and a Dutch couple as the evening wore on, but they decided to notify the school board in Cheju and rat me out. They had taken a picture of me and emailed it to my higher ups. Upon returning from my vacation, Memberia Kim was trying desperately to track me down. Or so I heard.  It was a good thing, coincidentally, I’d lost my phone at the Electric Pagoda in Kathmandu. 

 

Just to add some trauma to the drama, I knew nothing of this ‘investigation’ until long after I’d been back in Cheju. I’d muled back a little taste from Nepal and had been high, not only everyday in Nepal, but upon returning from Nepal, I went to work and was told I had two weeks more vacation! I didn’t have to show my face around the high school for two whole weeks, so I went on line, bought a round trip plane ticket and flew to Clark Airfield, presently known as Diasdado Macapagal International Airport. 

There, I did the Sagada run, not the Kessel run in 12 par secs in the Millennium Falcon, but the 6 hour bus ride from Olongapo to Baguio City, followed by another 7 hour bus ride to Sagada Mountain Province, where I procured more Jackie Brown. I made a proper vacation trip out of the drug run by taking along my good friend Mary K, who had never visited to the Philippine Cordillera. We visited Baguio, we visited Sagada, we visited Angeles City, and then we return to Subic Bay. After that, I returned to SKorea with enough to keep me happy for a short time. It was still chilly winter in the ROK. I needed my medicine.

 

-- One day, pot’s gonna be legal and future people are gonna look back and say, What the Deuce, Lois?
-- Pot’s never gonna be legal. It’s too anti-authority. And some ONE is always going to be in charge.

 

It was only then AFTER my return from the Philippines did Memberia finally track me down. Boy was she pissed! I told her it was a hand-rolled cigarette and that those Korean men in Nepal were out of their minds. They were from Seoul. 

 

Memberia ordered me to take a piss test at the local hospital.  I had no problem with that. Not only is Korea totally lax enough to scam off easily, but as luck would have it, I also have a surrogate younger brother in Cheju named Zander, whom I’d first met back in 2003 at the Korean National University of Education or KNUE – more specifically, I had someone I could trust. Zander had just moved to the island from the cty of Cheonan, one hour south of South. Just a few years ago, when Zander first moved to Cheonan, it was called Fastest Growing City in South Korea. 

 

The morning of my test, after a couple puffs from the meagerness that still remained, I rode my 125 to Jeju city and I met my long-time, anonymous pal Zander in a coffee shop and bought him a cup of coffee. The night before, I’d bought myself a small thin plastic 200 ml bottle of soju and drank it. I then washed the bottle, dried it and saved it. This morning at the coffee shop, I gave the plastic flask to Zander and after his coffee, some water and a trip to the toilet; he returned the bottle to me wrapped snugly in a small black plastic bag. I took the bottle with me to the hospital, hiding it down my pants. At the hospital a sexy young Korean nurse handed me a cup and told me in Hangul to pee in it. I said. “OKAY!” That was it. In the bathroom I poured the pee into the cup. I politely returned the cup to the Korean nurse full of clean, still plenty warm, urine of the Zander variety. Korean nurse told me in Korean language that they would forward the results to EPIK after 5 days. I never heard from either Memberia or any of my higher ups ever again, except a final word BEFORE I took the test, telling me that IF I passed, I could finish out my contract, but I WOULDN’T be asked to stay on for another year. IF I failed, they failed to tell me WHAT would happen. But it wouldn’t be good. 

 

I didn’t care. By May, I hadn’t had a vacation since January, I was going nuts. Life in SKorea can be hella frustrating sometimes. I’d already worked for 10 years on the MAINLAND before ever moving to the ISLAND. I’d had just about enough of SKorea. 

 

Why, you might ask, did I live in SKorea for 12 years…if it’s so frustrating? One answer: South Korea is a great place to BEGIN AGAIN, if you’re a North American college graduate without a dime to his name and if you like Asian women, spicy food and rice and stuff.



oops sorry

I had a dream last night that I had to empty my bag for TSA... woke up to find that I had acted it out with my blanket and ended up dumping my sleeping dog on the floor. Sorry Lulu!!


This little anecdote goes here because it was too long for Twitter. Which I have now! I don't know what you do with this thing...

Why I Love Jagalchi Fish Market - Busan Awesome

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Woman showing an octopus to an interested customer in Jagalchi fish Market, BusanOne of the first places I almost always take friends that visit Busan is Jagalchi fish market.  It’s a strange place.  While it’s a pretty well-established place to visit, the fish market is a bit of an oddity.  Going and watching old women gut and chop up dead fish is not exactly akin to relaxing on the beach in the ranks of must-do tourist activities.  The best explanation I can come up with for why I keep going back, is that I unknowingly despise fish.  Some inner chamber of my subconscious mind must love to watch them suffer and squirm.   Strangely, consciously I’ve got nothing against fish.  I don’t love them, but my enjoyment of Jagalchi market must go beyond pure aquatic schadenfreude. (Squid, on the other hand, are truly evil and horrible creatures.)

So here are some other possible reasons why I like the fish market so much.

Creepy ugly octopuses on display at Jagalchi fish market, Busan-It’s pretty much a free aquarium.  But weirder and scarier,  like a horror aquarium.  So many creepy, freakish looking creatures, packed into tanks while their friends and family are being hacked apart and gutted above them.

-The fish market is one of the best spots to photograph people in Busan.  It does feel slightly exploitative to walk around snapping photos of poor people while they’re working.  It made me think of a few unhappy years I spent as a house painter, and how I’d have felt had groups of Korean tourists crowded around me with their expensive cameras, taking pictures of me while I suffered through my work day.  It’s gotta be really annoying, still, you can get some pretty cool photos.

Women selling fish and assorted fish products at Jagalchi Fish Market, Busan.-Getting sashimi can be fun.  On the second floor of the indoor area can be a great place for some cheap seafood.  While you won’t be blown away by any extraordinarily sanitary conditions, at least you’ll know it’s fresh when they guy brings it to you, still alive, to ask if the fish he’s about to kill and feed you  looks okay.  Also the fish being cooked on the grills outside, along the street, look and smell fantastic.

-It’s convenient.  Right beside Nampo-dong.  Only a few stops from Busan Station.  It’s definitely easy to find and get around.  Stop by for a few minutes before catching your train, or make it part of a Nampo shopping day.

Buckets of dried sardines, Jagalchi Fish Market, Busan-There are some great views of the port and of the surrounding hillside neighborhoods here.  It’s definitely worth a look around.  Also, try going to the top of the Lotte Department store in Nampo.  There’s a sky garden that has some of my favorite views of Busan.

Well it may not be the most crowd-pleasing,  relaxing, or pleasant smelling  spot in Busan.  Jagalchi wins major points for being among the most interesting places.  You’ll definitely see things that you just aren’t gonna experience in too many other places.

Directions:  Take the Orange metro line to Jagalchi Station.  Go out exit 10.  Walk straight until you see the market gate on your right, follow that street until the end.

 


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The Korean War Litmus Test

So, what do you believe – was the Korean War a civil war, or an international war? Or, did Kim Il-sung start it? China’s Vice President, Xi Jinping, angered the South Korean Foreign Minister, Kim Sung-hwan

Beijing stepped forward to set things straight after Chinese Vice President Xi Jinping’s remarks that the Korean War was “a just war to defend peace against aggression from the U.S.” got on the nerves of Seoul and Washington.

Xi’s speech Monday during a meeting with veterans of the Chinese People’s Volunteers to commemorate the 60th anniversary of China’s entry into the war made South Koreans uncomfortable as it sounded like a denial of the fact that North Korea was to blame for the war.

State-run Xinhua News and the Chinese Communist Party’s organ People’s Daily ran an article on their websites Thursday that acknowledged that the Korean War was started by North Korea’s invasion based on former Soviet Union documents.

The article written in 2005 by Xu Yan, professor at the National Defense University of the Chinese People’s Liberation Army, noted that regardless of who fired first, the Korean War was a civil war.

Xu said the Korean War from June 25, 1950 through July 1953 was a civil war and China’s assistance of North Korea against the U.S. between October 1950 and July 1953, in what was an international war, must be strictly distinguished from it.

While the Korean War started by the North and aimed at unifying the divided Koreas ended with no clear winner, the war against the U.S. was victorious as it drove the “invaders” 400 kilometers south, Xu said.

This Russian veteran’s testimony certainly makes it look “international”. Bruce Cumings rejected the entire question, characterizing it as “Koreans invading Korea.” William Stueck simply called it a “tragedy” for Koreans. The safest play is not to let oneself be sucked into the various nationalistic sentiments still at war – technically. Every governments’ perspective is still valid, because each opinion is still backed with a gun.

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Filed under: History, Korea, Military, Politics Tagged: bruce cumings, china, dprk, kim sung hwan, korean war, rok, william stueck, xi jinping

Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival


Over one million visitors come to the annual Cherry Blossom Festival in Jinhae, South Korea.  It happens every year for 17 days near the end of March-beginning of April.   At this time the cherry blossoms are in full bloom and are quite a spectacle.  The visitors come from far and wide to walk over bridges and down streets that are draped in blooming cherry trees.  When the wind blows the air fills with pink petals and the trees "rain" pink all over the streets and streams. 

Our trip to this festival began a day earlier in Busan.  We came in from Jinyeong on the bus and then took the Busan subway to the Gwangan station on the Green line.  We met our friend Tom and we headed for Gwangali beach.  There we met a few more friends and sat on the beach enjoying some cold beers and snacks.  We had come to this beach a few months ago and we wished we could have stayed but it was bitter cold.  I was so happy the sun was shining and I was able to wear a t-shirt and soak up some sun.  




Our crew broke up when the evening came and went separate ways.  Nikki and I remembered the Korean BBQ place a few blocks away that we'd been to before and we walked over there to eat dinner.  We ordered the same meal we had last time and it was just as delicious.  The marinated galbi dish was really good.  It was nice to sit on the floor, shoes off, and eat dinner Korean style.  We are getting more brave about going into Korean style restaurants and ordering.  All too often foreigners fall into the routine of going to safe western style places and ordering the same thing every time.  It can be hard to order sometimes but that is half the fun!

After we ate dinner we went back over to the beach for a while to take part in the local beach pastime, shooting bottle rockets out over the waves.  Many of the convenience stores sell firecrackers and bundles of bottle rockets to beach goers.  We bought a few bundles and walked down to set them off.  Watching the bottle rockets and firecrackers explode over the reflection of the calm waves of the ocean was a beautiful sight.  






We called it an early night because we were meeting people at the bus station to leave for Jinhae early the next morning.  It was a good thing we arrived early because the line for the Jinhae bus was epic.  The  bus station is normally a pretty busy place but today the lines for tickets and buses were long, winding and twisting affairs.  We bought a quick McDonalds lunch to eat while we waited in line.  The bus to Jinhae was packed and our seats were in the very back row.  I was glad to have gotten a seat for the 45 minute ride, but I was feeling just a tad crowded looking at the bus crammed with people standing and some sitting on the floor.  I put thoughts of a crowded bus crash out of my mind and tried to concentrate on the novel I'd brought with me instead.

Pulling into the Jinhae bus terminal we could see the bustling crowds already.  The passengers poured out of buses all over the parking lot as we stepped off.  The city and streets were filled with a festival air and the people and cars even seemed to be filled with energy.  We waited to meet up with our friend Grace, a teacher at our school who grew up in Jinhae, who offered to show us around the festival.

Graced arrived, bubbly and happy to see us.  Our group was 8 people strong, which meant that it was nearly impossible for us to all stay together.  Grace led the way and walked in Korean style, with quick turns, last second street crossings, and she was able to move through the huge crowds like a spy avoiding a tail.  The only way I was able to stick with her was to follow the pink jacket she was wearing, even when she was a half a block away I could still find her.  
She briskly led us through the festival atmosphere.  Tents lined the streets and crowds of people choked up each available thoroughfare.  There were tents selling all imaginable street foods like chicken on a stick, corn cob on a stick, fishcake, corndogs, gyros, rice cakes, roasting chestnuts, ice cream, and the infamous Bondeggi (silkworm larvae).  The smell of roasting pork also filled the air, as a few of the tents offered pork dishes cut straight from the pig spinning on a spit out in the street.  



I couldn't help but think to myself that THIS is what I came here for.  We can watch those travel shows to distant places and see all of it, but to BE here is a totally different scene.  To buy strange foods and walk around a festival with vendors yelling in a different language, selling food, toys, candy, and clothes.  I tried to soak it all in as I quickly followed Grace and Nikki through the streets of Jinhae.

Grace eventually led us up to the Jinhae tower where, after a walk of 365 steps (one for each day of the year), we entered the tower.  It was originally built in honor of military victories but it now offers an incredible 365 degree view of the city.  From high above we could see all of the crowds and streets we had just pushed through.  We could see the town center, the stadium, the crowded bus terminal, and the islands leading out into the ocean.  From high above we could also see the cherry blossoms peppering the landscape like some giant had spilled a bag of cotton balls.  The bright white trees were everywhere.  In clumps together on the moutainsides and lining the sides of every street.  far in the distance we could still see more of the trees in the valleys and hills around the city.







One of the most popular sights of the festival is the stream near the city lined with cherry trees.  This is the photo opp spot to see.  Grace led us there in her expert fashion but it had already been found by a meandering crowd of thousands.  People lined the bridges and railings, aiming their cameras down the stream trying for the best shot.  Even the most amature photographer could have taken a great picture here, as the blossoms were floating with every breeze.  At one point a big gust of wind blew through, sending tiny pink blossoms everyhwere and the crowd of people let out a collective, "Ahhhh, Ohhhhh!" This is what they had come to see.







For me, the tour was topped off when Grace pointed out her middle school and high school, just blocks away from this stream.  She said that it was here when she was 14 that she began taking English classes, and now she's an English teacher at our school.  It added a personal touch to the festival, as I was honored to have received a tour from a true local.  It made me feel like less of a tourist and more of a real participant in the festivities.

After Grace left to visit her mother, we met up with the rest of our crew of foriegners.  We had lost them on our quick meandering through the city but met up again in the huge grass circle in the middle of town.  There were several bands playing and many people out eating and drinking on the grass.  It made for prime people watching, as local festivals tend to bring out the more interesting types.  We sat and talked and ate street food and drank some beers from the nearby Family Mart.  

We watched as young women teetered over the grass and sidewalks in spike high heeled shoes and tiny skirts, in current Korean women's fashion.  Many strolled with their dogs dressed in garish outfits.  Many men sat and smoked, eating bondeggi and drinking Micol, a kind of fermented rice liqour.  The older ladies paraded around in their decorated and immense sun visors, sometimes so large and dark that I was reminded by Darth Vader's imperial Storm Troopers.  

One the bus rides back to Changwon and then back to our home in Jinyeong we talked about the weekend.  How could it be that just a few months ago we were back home in the States?  How could it be that I used to be scared to ride the bus around my own hometown of 30,000 people and now I fearlessly travel in buses with schedules that I can't read and that are packed like sardine cans?  I reminded myself that THIS is why we came.  To travel and to explore the world.  To eat strange street foods and get tours from locals who are proud of their city.


teaching english in korea. 
blogging here: www.teachingintherok.blogspot.com

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