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Chungnyeolsa Shrine

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It was my first morning in Busan. I awoke around 4:30AM, sweaty, confused, in a circular love motel bed, surrounded by mirrors. I’d arrived around 10PM the previous night and had to cancel plans to meet friends for the simple reason that nobody could tell me where, in Busan, I was. I tossed and turned until it got light out, then decided to go for a walk.

beautiful, white symmetrical buildings of Chungnyeolsa shrine, BusanKorea seemed very unfamiliar. I’d only been gone for a little over a year, but there I was at dawn, completely disoriented, wandering through the streets. I walked for about 3 hours that morning. I didn’t have to work until 2:00PM and there was no internet in my room, so I had nothing to do but get familiar with the area I was in. It was during this early morning walk that I first came across Chungnyeolsa Shrine, which is surprisingly close to where I work. (It’s the only thing close to where I work.) Maybe it was my disorientation, or maybe I was hungry, but on that morning, those symmetrical white buildings did not impress me. I walked up to the fence, glanced up, turned around, left, and promptly forgot almost completely about the shrine.

Jangsan mountain through the trees and buildings of Chungnyeolsa shrine, Busan

Fast forward a few months. I’m bored on a Sunday morning. I’m kind of a public transportation nerd, and had noticed the new blue line on the subway had opened. I decided to go exploring. Armed with my camera, I started at Minam and rode it all the way out to Anpyeong, under the false pretense that there was gonna be a beach there. I was sadly mistaken. There is nothing in Anpyeong. On the return trip, after a few fruitless stops and some uninspired photos, I got off at the Chungnyeolsa stop, completely unaware of what it was.

Maybe it was nostalgia for that lost feeling that I get when I got to a new place, maybe it was excitement about seeing something familiar, but forgotten. Whatever it was, I found this shrine to be absolutely beautiful.

Paintings depicting the 1592 invasion of Korea.

The shrine itself is dedicated to fighters who died during the Japanese invasion in 1592. One of the buildings had a few artifacts and some paintings about the invasion. It wasn’t so much the history that I found interesting as the architecture. I liked the white buildings, the symmetrical staircases and gates. There’s a small pond that reflects the trees, many of which were beginning to blossom. Supposedly you can hike to Dongrae fortress from the shrine, though the path was blocked off when I was there.

When the weather gets warm, Chungnyeolsa will make an excellent place to go, relax and read, or just walk around. It’s worth a visit if you’re at all into history, or if you just want a beautiful peaceful spot to kill a few hours on a weekend.

Pond, flowers and buildings of Chungnyeolsa shrine, Busan.

Directions:  On the blue subway line go to Chungnyeolsa stop, exit 1.  Otherwise you can take the 89, 189, 48, 29, 129, or 307 buses.  Not sure where they stop, but look for the big white monument with soldier statues.

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birthday book

Someone dear to me is turning 80!

Every aspect of who I am that loves and sees beauty is a result from this person. She has no fear in loving those otherwise not loved. She has no doubt in her beliefs. Her strength is to be admired. Her wisdom is endless. I would not know the meaning of unconditional love if it was not from her example.

So I made her this.

This is a birthday book, idea derived from here. Idea is, you take several notes and make a book out of them. I made a week’s worth of birthday cards, and reminders. Your birthday really should be celebrated the entire month. And Korea is wonderful for having the capsule notes, and insanely amazing stationary. It might have cost me $3 to make this. Probably $5 to ship and arrive in a week. Much Love from this small country.

Thanks again to Oh, hello friend: You are loved, truly inspiring blog.

Champions League 2011 quarterfinals on TV in Korea

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The Champions League quarterfinals start up TONIGHT (well, tomorrow morning actually, Korean time). If you want to watch, they WILL be on Korean television – on MBC Sports. On my TV, it’s channel 68. Yours might be different. All the sports channels on mine are around the 60s.

The schedule of events for this week (April 5 – 6) on MBC is as follows:
EARLY MORNING WEDNESDAY APRIL 6th (games in Europe are Tues April 5th)
3:45 (live!) – Real Madrid vs Tottenham
5:45 (taped replay) – Inter (Milan) vs Schalke 04
9:00 (taped replay) – Real Madrid vs Tottenham
11:00 (taped replay) – Inter vs Schalke 04

EARLY MORNING THURSDAY APRIL 7th (games in Europe are Wed April 6th)
3:45 (live!) Chelsea vs Manchester United
5:45 (taped replay) – Barcelona vs Shakhtar (Donetsk)
9:00 (taped replay) – Chelsea vs Man U
11:00 (taped replay) – Barcelona vs Shakhtar (Donetsk)

The TV schedule is only up the week of the games. I’ll post a little earlier next week for the games on April 12th and 13th.

IT’S THE MOST EXCITING FRICKIN TIME OF THE YEAR!

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A Letter to Canada

Location: 

Hello, and congratulations!
 
I hear you're having another election.  I'm so excited.  Will it
be a girl or a boy this time?  A conservative or a really conservative?
Oh, Canada, you're so fertile, turning out representative democracy
at a scale that makes us, your neighbors to the south, blush with envy.  ^^
 
I do have to say, I don't know WHAT to get you, though.  I mean,
you just had an election and I got you that nice sweater set, and now a no-confidence vote?  Anything to get that hot voter-on-poll action you're so fond of, right?  Although, Canada, I do have to admit, I've noticed you have a certain...preference for multiple partners.  I know you promise to be loyal, but it seems you just can't keep a prime minister in the house long enough to learn
his name.  Sigh...I know it's hard to commit, being that you're a young
country, and there are so many attractive options out there, but what's
wrong with that nice Stephen Harper boy?  He's so clean-cut and well-groomed, and he goes to church every Sunday.  Now that's a prime minister worthy of
a commitment, isn't it?  
 
You know, Canada, if you keep playing the field like this you're going
to be left without a partner after a while.  You might get a reputation for
being a...fast...first-world democracy, and no nice prime minister likes a 
country like that.  I know you're proud of your...taut, proud softwood forests,
and your....well, you know, your....heaving, ample natural gas reserves,
but believe me, those prime ministers are only after you for your body,
and after that's gone, well who are you going to have?  Who loves you
for who you are, Canada?  Me!  Me, that's who!  
 
Well, I suppose you know your late-night no-confidence vote shenanigans
have gotten out, and everyone's talking about it.  There's even a play-by-play
up here:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canadian_federal_election,_2011
 
Just try to be faithful this time, Canada, whoever you choose.  Remember
nobody's perfect.  Didn't you use to say nobody had ever, um, loved you the way
Stephen Harper had?  Don't you want to keep that loving attention?  Well,
I guess not, although you can always call him.  You have his number.
 
Take care, Canada.  I just want what's best for you.
 
Your friend, 
 
-America

Busan e-FM Week 5: Learning Korean

About 'Open Mike in Busan'

Background

There’s a bit of a background story to this. I was originally scheduled to talk about Festivals in Busan, but then the North Koreans attacked Yeonpyeong Island the day before the show, and suddenly I had to find something more depressing to talk about. So I chose learning Korean.

Introduction

For my fifth week on Busan e-FM’s “Inside Out Busan” show, I thought I'd talk about something that perhaps is my biggest problem in Korea – and that’s the Korean language.

2007

I didn’t begin learning Korean properly until 2007, even though my wife and I started dating in 1999. Sometimes I think because I met her in England, and we spent our first few years together there, I didn’t really have the incentive to learn Korean that I might have had if I’d met her in Korea, because I didn’t have to speak Korean with her.

More than that, I think if I’d met her here, I would have started socialising with her friends, and eventually met her parents, and this would have provided a very powerful motivation to learn the language in order to create a good impression. Instead, by the time I got to Korea our wedding was only a few weeks away, and in so many ways it was a done deal whether I spoke Korean or not; everyone was stuck with me.

Slow progress

Of course I have made progress in the last three years since I started learning Korean, but it feels like that progress has been painfully slow. And honestly, I can’t help thinking that everyone else is thinking the same thing – that I should be a lot better by now.

If I could turn the clock back, and know in 2007 what I know now, I’d have quit my job and studied full time. But back then, I wasn’t expecting to stay in Korea for very long, and as a financial trader I became quite immersed in the Credit Crisis, and so my job took up a lot of time. And actually the older I got, the harder it got. Also I see now that I made mistakes in my approach to learning Korean.

How not to learn Korean

I learned a lot of vocabulary. I thought then I could make myself understood. When I studied Japanese part-time I learned about 1,200 words in a year, and it really just felt it was all coming together when I stopped. But that didn’t really work with Korean – even now my Korean vocabulary is only about 800 words. I really needed to get out and speak Korean more, but actually because I work for myself it’s easy for me to spend a lot of time at home. So in fact on many days, it’s like I don’t even live in Korea. Sometimes I think it’s harder to study Korean in the Internet age than when I studied Japanese before the Internet really became popular.

The Internet is destroying the ability to concentrate and learn

Back then – in 1996 – I used to read the experiences of people who’d been in Japan for ten or twenty years, and they were often totally isolated, so they had to learn the language. Now I can live in Korea, but spend all my time during the week on the English Internet and then watch American TV on Hulu at the weekend, in addition to the TV channels showing English programmes.

We think the Internet is this great thing because it brings people together and makes us less isolated, but sometimes I think it’s a curse when learning Korean – for precisely that reason. The Internet makes it easier to keep living your old life now, even if you move countries.

Creating a more immersive environment

I should try and create a more immersive environment for studying, but I’m afraid I’m really too busy with my job to be properly motivated. I tried to do little things like use a Korean version of Windows, but most of the time I get my wife to read the error messages and ignore everything else. My smartphone is Korean language only, so I just don’t use it fully – it doesn’t really help me learn. I should probably switch off all the technology and stop watching things on Hulu.

Doesn’t living with a Korean family help?

Living with a Korean family doesn’t help much. They speak in a local dialect, and because my Korean is poor it really throws me off. For example, instead of 왜 my mother-in-law says 와, she asks me if I’d like 사가 and I think... what is that? And even if I can remember that 사가 is 사과 [apple], there are so many other words and pronunciations that confuse me. It’s actually really discouraging because the more I try and communicate with her, the more problems we seem to have, over really basic things. And then there’s the ‘I-told-you-this-once’ problem.

The ‘I-told-you-this-once’ problem

I’m surrounded by Korean family or friends, and someone says something – in Korean – which later they assume I know, because I was there when they said it. But being there is not a guarantee of understanding. And when you ask about it later they say “I told you this once”. Anyway, the main problem is that I feel like some kind of 5 year-old child who doesn’t understand what the adults are talking about.

Making mistakes and levels of politeness

The other problem with living with a family is remembering the levels of politeness. They confuse me, I make mistakes, and I end up discouraged. People don’t mind if I make a mistake, but in English there’s basically one way to say hello and one way to say goodbye. Here, it depends on whether you’re speaking to a superior, an equal, or a junior – so there are at least six ways to say hello and goodbye – maybe more – and several ways to say everything else. It seems I’m often too polite and ‘respectful’ to my juniors, so apparently I lose face and then people maybe don’t treat me with as much respect – so I’m told. I really hate all this hierarchical stuff.

The perils of learning Korean with your spouse

I don’t really practice Korean with my wife. I think a lot of people who aren’t married think that if they marry someone who speaks a language they are learning, it will really help them with that language – but actually I think the typical experience is that it really doesn’t. Good teachers are good diplomats – and diplomacy is usually the first casualty of marriage.

Where do I go from here?

I’ve looked into attending Korean classes – or doing something more formal – but it never really fit in with my job. Sometimes I get letters from the local immigration office for programmes, but they’re only written in Korean, which means I just get the executive summary from my wife, because she’s very busy as well.

I think the government is trying to help immigrants, but I think generally we fall into three distinct groups – migrant workers, imported Asian wives, and Westerners. Once I was sent an invite for an online forum, but after I did a lot of translation work to register for it, I found it was almost all Asian women who’d married Korean men and were learning how to cook Korean food. So I gave up on that.

I’m going to keep working on my Korean. I have to. Last year I was at the Immigration Office to extend my visa, and they said it was better to have language skills if I wanted to extend if for longer. So you know, it made me feel like the Korean government were getting a little bit impatient with me. And I’d like to work my way onto an F-5 visa – permanent residence – but I think there’s going to be a language requirement for that. I don’t blame them though – I have very strong views about ‘multiculturalism’, so I think if I can’t learn Korean soon then I should leave Korea.

Links
Busan e-FM
Inside Out Busan

Air date: 2010-11-24 @ ~19:30

Busanmike.blogspot.com
 
Twitter:  @BusanMike
YouTube: /BusanMikeVideo
Flickr:  /busanmike
 

Shifting

It's April and that means a full month has gone by at my new job. I have to say a lot has transpired within that time. I panicked and worked at a stressed pace the first three weeks and then started to get my bearings. Also for some reason I thought I had to go slower in the book, but it turns out I should have been going faster.

That brings me to today where I realized that since I need to cover about four pages per class that there will be little time for extra activities and games. One way you can look at this is that the children will miss out on having a good time, but you can also see it as I don't have to spend so much time planning. Before I was trying to find key points to address about the math they were learning and bring it to them in a way that developed their English. Now I see I will just try to make sure they are speaking and creating the Math-English while we work in the book. I am sure I can squeeze in a fun game or craft somewhere amongst that.

Because of this realization I have come to see my job as somewhat lighter than I though it was going to be. Don't get me wrong, I still have six classes twice a week which does drain me. I feel, though, that I really can do this and that I probably should just have controlled-fun with the kids and not worry so much.

I am feeling optimistic today but underneath this still a little nervous that there will be those "bad days" ahead where the kids are wild.

In other news, Tom seems to be getting more plump and filled out. I need to get him over to the Vet for a check up, though. I also need to stock up on wet food since today he stared me down begging me for some. I was tough at first and didn't give him any, but then as I saw he started to forget about it I let him have his treat. I can see he likes to have it every other day or 3 times a week.

With things shifting and settling down I feel myself getting back into my "Korean life" routine. Things like, "study Korean" and "go to the gym" keep echoing in my mind. Really what I want to do is create some art when I get home or go out for a walk.  Spring is so wonderful~!

52 weeks. Week #2. in the cafe

Week #2- April 5th, 2011- in the cafe
Week #2- April 5th, 2011- in the cafe
I’m at the end of an almost month long stretch without a regular internet connection. Besides when travelling that’s probably the longest domestic stretch without it since I was a broke student who couldn’t afford it.

This is Lauren at a cafe around the corner where we must of spent 100 dollars on overpriced lattes during our bi-weekly internet sessions.

I always bemoan the time-wasting effects of constant connection and I did read a lot more without the internet. But living in a foreign land it is nice to have that comfort of skyping (or the ability to), and being able to zoom back home with the click of a button.

Anyway, I;m back on now, after finally managing to move my account through the beauracreatic malestrom of the Korea internet security agency.

onward

nikon fe2
nikkor 24mm
Ilford 400


Filed under: 52 weeks in seoul, black and white Tagged: 52 weeks, black and white, Ilford, week #2

Question from a reader: ferries from Korea to China?

A reader writes in:

Hey Chris,

I have no idea if you’ve thought about it/know about it or what-not, but how easy is it for a foreigner to take a boat to China? I’ve read that boats go from Incheon to different ports along the Chinese coast but I’m wondering how much of an obstacle it’s going to be to actually get the tickets and get aboard.

Any help is appreciated!
Thanks,

[D.D.]

I honestly have never tried going to China, nor have I thought about doing it. With that said, Wikitravel has some info:

Incheon Port International Ferry Terminal 1 (Yeonan Budu, 연안부두) [3] has services to several cities in China, such as Weihai, Dandong, Qingdao and Tianjin.

The largest operator is Jinchon [4], but Incheon Port has full listings on their website [5]. These ferries are similar to miniature cruise lines and are complete with karaoke rooms, Playstation games (for a fee), DVD rentals (private rooms only), and a nightly grill on the back deck. Inside, accommodations are a hit and miss. If you have an economy ticket, which will set you back approximately €180 (roundtrip), you can request a sleeper bunk where you have a considerable amount of privacy. If these are all taken however, the other option for an economy ticket is the sleeping deck where everyone who is crammed on the floor like sardines in a can. To avoid being relegated to the sardine room, get to the terminal early, 2 or 3 hours should be sufficient. This is definitely worth it as the ferry can take as much as 24 hours depending where you go. To make the most of this ferry ride, take a good book, work, and/or a laptop to pass the time.

Visit Korea gives 032-761-3068 and 032-891-2030 as a couple numbers to call, or if you can read Korean, check out the official page at http://www.icferry.or.kr/pages/.

 

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe – 2011
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

monochrome is good for you

Is shooting black and white kinda the equivalent if “eating your vegetables” for photographers? And is doing it on film different from converting a raw file that doesn’t work in color over to the dark side? These are things I’ve been wondering as I shot through a few black and white rolls over the last few weeks.

I was always reluctant to shoot BW as I thought color kind of my shtick, and justified my aversion with the expense, inconvenience and ability to convert any color film to BW in Photoshop. The last BW film I shot was when traveling Europe five years ago. After relocating to a new apartment a little further from my favorite photo labs I started to consider doing some of my own development, and as BW is a much simpler affair than color I thought I should shoot it a bit more. That and some recent work by a good friend inspired me to load in more of the stuff.

I’ve enjoyed my few weeks sans color. And have found myself focusing more on composition and varied tones of light. Shooting in BW from that start (not converting later) is making me look in a new way, to see photos where I might not have before. It’s a stripped down process, and I find myself focusing more on the essentials of the frame. Here are some outtakes.

Kodak TMAX 100, KODAK TMAX 400, ILFORD HP5 400

KICK BACKs
Dongdaemun fabric market, Tmax 100
SYMMETRY
Gwangjang food alley, Tmax 100
RAG AND BONE SHOP
seoul flea market, Tmax 100
Dongmyo backstreets
dongmyo backstreet, tmax 100
monochrome blog
hospital and orchid, Ilford 400
monochrome blog
monochrome blog
cafe killing time, Ilford 400
monochrome blog
bundang, Tmax 400
monochrome blog
bundang, Tmax 400
monochrome blog
subway, Tmax 400
monochrome blog
carting around, Ilford 400 and Tmax 400
monochrome blog
waiting, Tmax 400
monochrome blog
Tmax 100
monochrome blog
junk for life, dongmyo, Tmax 100
monochrome blog
Ilford 400
monochrome blog
monochrome blog
Tmax 400
monochrome blog
Apartment, Tmax 400
monochrome blog
monochrome blog
lauren, Ilford 400
monochrome blog


Filed under: 35mm, nikon fe2, street photography Tagged: 35mm, black and white, Ilford, nikon fe2, photography, seoul, South Korea, street, tmax

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