Temple History

Gaemoksa Temple is located near Bongjeongsa Temple in the southeastern foothills of Mt. Cheondeungsan (575.9 m) in northern Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. The temple was first built during the early part of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). The famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.) built the temple during the reign of King Sinmun of Silla (r. 681-692). According to this legend, Uisang-daesa decided to build this temple after gaining enlightenment inside the neighbouring Cheongdeung-gul Cave, which is located directly behind the temple. Originally, the temple was called Heungguksa Temple, which means “Making the Country Thrive Temple” in English. During the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), Jeong Mong-ju (1338-1392) studied at the temple.

During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the name of the temple changed from Heungguksa Temple to that of its current name of Gaemoksa Temple. Around this time, there were many blind people living in the Andong area, but after this temple was constructed many of these people regained their ability to see. That’s why the name of the temple changed from Heungguksa Temple to Gaemoksa Temple. In English, Gaemoksa Temple means “Opening the Eyes of People Temple.”

There is a Korean Treasure at Gaemoksa Temple. It’s the Wontong-jeon Hall, which is Korean Treasure #242.

Temple Layout

You first approach Gaemoksa Temple up a long, winding mountain road. It appears as though it was recently paved, so the way up is quite easy. Eventually, you’ll arrive at the temple parking lot with a stunning view of the city of Andong off in the distance. And between the view and the city is the temple pond with surrounding purple flowers.

You’ll then pass through the Uhwa-ru Pavilion. This stunning, all-natural entry gate has old monks’ dorms on the backside of the pavilion. Straight ahead, on the other hand, is the Wontong-jeon Hall. It’s believed that this shrine hall was first constructed in 1457. The reason that this is believed is that there is a written record found inside the shrine hall from its reconstruction in 1969. This written record states “The First Year of Joseon Conforming with God.”

As for the structure of the shrine hall, it’s situated under a gable roof. There are brackets placed on poles to support the weight of the roof. The front and back of the building are shaped differently. The front of the building has a raised, wooden corridor. The exterior walls are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Additionally, the shrine hall has ondol (a traditional floor heating system in Korea), which is extremely rare in an early Joseon Dynasty shrine hall.

As for the main altar inside the Wontong-jeon Hall, you’ll find three different incarnations of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Of the three, it’s the central image that’s most distinct and probably the oldest. Its face is slender, and it’s wearing an ornate crown. To the left of the main altar, you’ll find a modern painting dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife); while to the right of the main altar, you’ll find an equally modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). If you look closely, you’ll find a rather rare sight. In this painting is an image of Yongwang (The Dragon King) wearing a military uniform similar to that of Dongjin-bosal (The Bodhisattva that Protects the Buddha’s Teachings) in the same painting.

To the left of the Wontong-jeon Hall are the monks’ dorms and administrative offices at Gaemoksa Temple. And to the right of the main hall, you’ll find the Sanshin-gak Hall, which is currently under reconstruction. This shaman shrine hall, however, functions as a Sanshin/Chilseong-gak Hall. The image of a Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) painting inside the shaman shrine hall holds a golden fan, and the tiger looks especially fierce. To the right of the Sanshin painting is an older mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars).

How To Get There

From the Andong Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #310 to get to Gaemoksa Temple. You’ll need to take this bus for 14 stops, or 16 minutes, and get off at the “Bongjeongsa Bus Station Bus Stop – 봉정사 정류장 하차.” From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk 1.4 km, or 21 minutes, to get to Gaemoksa Temple.

Another way that you can get to Gaemoksa Temple is after visiting Bongjeongsa Temple. After visiting Bongjeongsa Temple, there is a trail to the east of the temple grounds near Yeongsanam Hermitage. The hike from Bongjeongsa Temple to Gaemoksa Temple will take 11 minutes over 600 metres.

And if public transportation and a trip to Bongjeongsa Temple aren’t your thing, you can simply take a taxi from the Andong Bus Terminal to get to Gaemoksa Temple. The taxi ride will take you around 20 minutes over 14 km, and it’ll cost you around 19,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 6/10

The views and close proximity of Gaemoksa Temple to Bongjeongsa Temple are definitely pluses. Additionally, the 15th century Wontong-jeon Hall is absolutely stunning architecturally with its exposed rafters and wooden corridor out in front of the actual shrine hall. Stepping inside the historic main hall, you’ll find a stunning central image of Gwanseeum-bosal. Additionally, you can also enjoy the mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the shaman shrine hall. It doesn’t hurt that the abbot at Gaemoksa Temple is quite friendly, too. While smaller in size, and if you’re already visiting Bongjeongsa Temple, Gaemoksa Temple is definitely worth a bit of your time, as well.

Temple History

Gyeongheungsa Temple is located in southern Gyeongsan, Gyeongsangbuk-do to the northeast of Donghaksan (602.7 m). It’s believed by some that Gyeongheungsa Temple was first founded in 659 A.D. by the monk Hyegong-hwasang. But the evidence is rather thin to support this theory. Another theory states that Gyeongheungsa Temple was first founded in 1637. And later, the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Gyeongheungsa Temple” was enshrined at the temple in 1644. The temple would be rebuilt in 1719 and further rebuilt in 1897.

In the 1990s, the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Gyeongheungsa Temple” was examined to reveal a written message on the clothing of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This written message revealed that there used to be four to five hermitages at Gyeongheungsa Temple before it was destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98). Additionally, the temple was quite large and had dozens of monks that lived at the temple.

In 1990, the Daeung-jeon Hall was dismantled, repaired, and restored. Also, the monks’ dorms were repaired this time, as well. In 1993, a new Daeung-jeon Hall was built at Gyeongheungsa Temple. And the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Gyeongheungsa Temple” was moved to the new Daeung-jeon Hall, while the old Daeung-jeon Hall was converted into the temple’s Myeongbu-jeon Hall.

The “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Gyeongheungsa Temple” is Korean Treasure #1750, while the “Buddhist Altar at Gyeongheungsa Temple in Gyeongsan” is Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Material #555.

Temple Layout

As you first approach the temple grounds, and as you enter the temple parking lot, you’ll notice the temple budowon (stupa field) to the right of the temple shrine halls. Slightly elevated, there are a row of six stupas varying in both shape and size to greet you as you first approach Gyeongheungsa Temple.

A little further to the left and past the monks’ dorms, there is a cluster of some four temple shrine halls. The first of these shrine halls is the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with murals dedicated to Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) and the Bodhidharma. Housed inside this shrine hall is a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Underneath this triad is only a small part of the main altar, which is known as a “sumidan” in Korean. Officially, this altar is known as the “Buddhist Altar at Gyeongheungsa Temple in Gyeongsan,” and it’s Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Material #555. Considering the normal size of a “sumidan,” it would appear as though only one-fifth of the original altar still remains. Some of the subjects on the altar that still remain are crabs, fish, frogs, lotus flowers, and peonies. Based on what remains of the “sumidan,” it’s presumed that the “Buddhist Altar at Gyeongheungsa Temple” was built in the early 17th century. And to the right of this historic main altar is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

Between the monks’ dorms and the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, and up a set of stairs, is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to this hall are adorned with Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the “Wooden Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Gyeongheungsa Temple” on the main altar. This triad consists of a central image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) being joined on either side by Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). This Korean Treasure dates back to 1644, as indicated by a prayer discovered inside the statue of Seokgamoni-bul. There’s also an inscription on the pedestal that Seokgamoni-bul rests upon, as well. Additionally, records including the background, organizer, and maker of the statues were stored inside the body of the Historical Buddha. These records also relate the material used and the monk-sculptor, Cheongheo, who made these 17th century wooden statues. He was based out of Geumsansa Temple in Jeollabuk-do and was invited to many temples, including Gyeongheungsa Temple, to create these beautiful Buddhist statues. All three of the statues are both strong and serene in nature. And both Bodhisattvas wear regal crowns. The triad is a great example of Buddhist artistry during the mid-17th century. Also housed inside the main hall is a mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal, as well as a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

To the rear of these two shrine halls, and slightly up an embankment, are two smaller sized shaman shrine halls. Turning to the left and then to the right, you’ll make your way up towards these shaman shrine halls along a forested pathway. The first of the two is the Chilseong/Dokseong-gak Hall. Housed inside this shaman shrine hall are a pair of original murals dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars) and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). A little further to the right is the temple’s Sanshin-gak Hall. This shaman shrine hall houses a blue background fronted by an image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) joined with a tiger with a nearly human face.

How To Get There

To get to Gyeongheungsa Temple from the Gyeongsan Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to walk for about five minutes, or 300 metres, to get to the Gyeongsan Shijang (market) bus stop. From this bus stop, you’ll need to take Bus #100. After 14 stops, or 21 minutes, you’ll need to get off at the “Daemyeong 2-ri (Cheong-do Banghyang) – 대명 2리 (청방향)” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk 2.2 km to get to the temple.

And if public transportation isn’t your thing, you can simply take a taxi from the Gyeongsan Intercity Bus Terminal. The taxi ride will take you about 15 minutes, over 8 km, and it’ll cost you 12,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 6.5/10

The two major highlights at Gyeongheungsa Temple are the “Buddhist Altar at Gyeongheungsa Temple in Gyeongsan” and the “Buddhist Altar at Gyeongheungsa Temple.” Even though only twenty percent of the main altar inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall is still intact, it’s a stunning one-fifth. Also, the main altar triad inside the newly built Daeung-jeon Hall are stunning, as well, both in scope and style. In addition to these rather obvious highlights, you can also enjoy the three shaman murals inside the two shaman shrine halls, as well as the collection of stupas inside the budowon at the entry of the temple grounds.

The History and Design of the Image

The “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Hwangsang-dong” is located in northeastern Gumi, Gyeongsangbuk-do hidden behind a row of factory buildings. These factories shield people from being able to see this high relief image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) from the road.

It’s presumed that this high relief carving of a standing Amita-bul was first made around the turn of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) and Goryeo (918-1392) periods in the 10th century. The relief is carved on the southeastern surface of a huge rock cliff. The image measures an impressive 7.3 metres in height. In addition to both its age and height, the high relief image is Korean Treasure #1122.

According to a legend, a general was being chased by the enemy, but his life was saved by a woman who helped him hide behind a large rock. Later, the general considered this woman to be a Buddha, so he had an image of Amita-bul carved onto this rock. This would become the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Hwangsang-dong.”

As for the design of the high relief image, Amita-bul has a large protruding bump on its head. This is meant to symbolize his wisdom. The three creases around his neck represent the “three destinies” of affliction, actions, and suffering. His eyes are gently closed. It also has a thin nose and small lips. Both of its ears are elongated. The robe of Amita-bul hangs lightly over the arms. The hands are raised to its chest, and the statue has the left hand with the palm turned inward and the right hand has its palm turned outward. A flat stone was placed atop the rock cliff to serve as a protective canopy for the statue.

How To Get There

The simplest way to get to the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Hwangsang-dong” from the Gumi Intercity Bus Terminal is to take a taxi. The ride should take about 15 minutes, over 13 km, and it’ll cost you 13,000 won (one way).

Otherwise, you can take Bus #900 from the Gumi Intercity Bus Terminal. You’ll need to take this bus for 10 minutes and get off at the “금오공대입구 – Geumo Gonddae-ipgu” bus stop. From this bus stop, you can catch either Bus #90 or Bus #93. You’ll need to take this bus for 11 stops, or 12 minutes, and get off at the “델코전지 하차 – Delko Jeonji” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head north for about 800 minutes, or 13 minutes, and look for the “미애사 – Miaesa Temple” sign. The “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Hwangsang-dong” is to the left rear of a large factory building.

Overall Rating: 4/10

There’s a modern temple next to the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Hwangsang-dong” named Miaesa Temple. But rather obviously, the main highlight in the area is the high relief image of Amita-bul. The large 7.3 metre tall image is impressive in both its size and elegant design. When visiting this image of Amita-bul, take your time to take it all in. This image is a masterful representation of Unified Silla/Goryeo design.