Recent Blog Posts



All Recent Posts

1 little, 2 little, 3 little hot dog catalogs ...

Guess what is sitting in all its fat stack glory on my warm floors right this very second?


You want one?
Come buy one!





Art / Zine / FUN

You know you want to.
I promise I'll dance with you.
xoxo

It's going to be here ...

And now for a little present ...
This little story didn't make it in time for this hot dog ... but it is loved all the same. 


I got out of work early today, I thought it would have been a good night to do some cooking, try one of the recipes from that spatula girl blog, but I’m f-ing tired, so bibimbap it is, again. Take out. It’s a bibimbap and Dexter night.


So I went to the gimbap heaven in the bottom floor of my building, “bibimbap ssah joo say yo…” I mumble sweetly. I don’t know what this means exactly, but it gets me what I want: rice, with vegetables, spicy sauce, and a fried egg in a large Styrofoam bowl and then covered with plastic wrap, usually a side of gakdugi and chemical-yellow pickled radish, and some kind of clear-broth soup.


After 7 or 8 minutes of staring I exchange 4 blue paper rectangles for my parcel and, string together a bunch of syllables in a sugary affectation of a voice (which sounds more foreign to me than the words I’m using), that I hope will be construed as me saying “thank you. goodbye.”


Me and my bibimbap hop in the elevator and ride it to the 15th floor. I sometimes enjoy being in this elevator, hustling silently against gravity in a fluorescent chamber, lined with mirrors, usually when I’m alone and slightly drunk. But right now, I’m neither. Beside me is Shawn. A 22-year old boy with a short neck and big hands who lives on the 17th floor, #8. I know this because I woke up there 2 Saturdays ago wearing the dress I wore out Friday night, with nothing on underneath. We don’t have much to say to each other. So he asks me what’s going on tonight. His voice makes me want to throw up, so I say a lot of unnecessary and awkard things while examining my knuckles. I have successfully prevented him from speaking again when I hear “sheep-oh-teem-nida” and say “see you later” and walk toward my room, praying the neighbors are not fucking again.
-- Rachel Hinkle

Question from a reader: travel via a rental car?

UPDATED 29 March 2010 11:35pm - The reader wrote back with a follow-up - look below my original answer for her response.

A reader writes in asking about rental cars:

Hi Chris,

I was wondering if I could get your advice. My husband and I will be in South Korea next week for a total of three days. We live in Japan right now.... [We] will be arriving at Busan port and would really like to explore the natural sites of the country. We do have to make one stop in Seoul to meet my husband's sister for dinner but other than that, we're not much interested in the city.

Do you think it is practical to rent a car for the three days? Is this something you would recommend? Would love to hear your take as someone who is clearly familiar with the country. Much thanks,

[S.D.B.]

After having made it across the country in mere hours using public transportation booked on the day of the trip, renting a car seems to be rather extraneous. 99.8% of the country is accessible via public transportation - how many countries can you say that about? - although the buses / systems in the more rural areas can be a little harder to navigate if you don't know how to read Korean. If you have specific destinations you're looking to check out, a bit of internet searching and planning can make your trip happen. Start here if you're interested in trains, or over here if you're interested in buses.

If you're planning on sticking to the 'natural sites of the country', renting a car will likely make your time in Korea better spent. The road signs are generally in English, and in the rural areas the roads are far less crazy than in giant cities. While not always the most helpful, the locals can steer you in the right direction if you get lost. Be sure to pick up a good map of Korea - it'll help you get around and understand where the road signs are sending you.

While I've never rented a car in Korea, I'd presume the process is similar to elsewhere in the world. You will need an international drivers license, or one issued in Korea, and your passport for identification purposes. Look over the car for damages and what's in the fuel tank, sign a contract, pay, and drive off. At smaller places, the selection is likely to be limited, though advance reservations are not required outside of the prime summer months. Some rent-a-car places are located near airports, ship's ports of call, bus terminals, and train stations, so ask around once you arrive where to rent a car. You are unlikely to find 'hawkers' or 'steerers', so ask at an Information or Tourism counter. Two rental car companies are recommended by visitkorea.or.kr, the country's official tourism website (see this page on Visit Korea for more information):

AVIS: Call them at 1544-1600 or visit their website at www.avis.co.kr
Kumho: Call them at 1588-1230 or visit their website at www.kumhorent.com

Another option is to use a travel agent to help with the booking. You may pay a premium for the service, but a bit extra for the peace of mind may well be worth it. One travel agent listed on the excellent korea4expats.com is Fides Travel (http://www.fidestravel.co.kr), and offer English service. E-mail them at [email protected] Call at 02-755-5470 once you're in Korea; add the +82 country code from outside Korea.

For the part of your trip into Seoul, park the car and take public transportation. I say that not because you're likely to be a bad driver, but driving in Seoul is hard enough for even the locals. Unless you're accustomed to crazy traffic, three cars in two lanes, and unpredictable bus / taxi drivers, take the public transportation and save yourself a lot of hassle.

--UPDATE: her response --

Hi Chris,

The advice proved most helpful. I ended up getting a car at Avis in Busan and basically circling the entire country in three days. It was great. Managed to get to Seoraksan, the DMZ, Andond, Seoul and some other great places. We had the most basic of maps but got by just fine because the signs in Korea are fantastic. Oh and you were right about driving in Seoul :S

[S.D.B.]


Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

Angry Whites with Guns

For the past few months I've been tracking the trajectory of the health care debate back at home. I've been reading articles on left and right-wing sites, watching video, and wasting countless hours perusing, lurking, and baiting people on the message boards. As I'm sure you all know, I am a big supporter of health reform in America, and firmly supported this now-passed, bill, despite its many flaws and seeming handouts to Big Insurance. To me, the argument has always been very simple: The United States is the only industrialized country in the world who (until yesterday) didn't guarantee at least basic healthcare for its people. Add the fact that over 30 million of us have no insurance, and millions of others are under-insured, and it's a no-brainer. We MUST, as a society, take concrete steps to alleviate the problem.

Barack Obama knew this, and ran on healthcare. It was a campaign promise, and guess what? He won. He was elected by a clear margin and given a mandate to make good on his promise. And that's what he did. It took over a year of wrangling, wrestling, and staking his political future on it, but in the end the votes were there and the bill is now signed.

Congrats, Mr. President.

Of course we knew the opposition would be mighty, but I had no idea that it would get as angry and ugly as it has. We saw it last summer at the town hall meetings, where conservative demonstrators shouted down their Representatives and began making absurd claims about "communism," "socialism," and even "Naziism," as if they had a clue as to the true meaning of any of those terms. The Tea Party movement picked up steam, fielding thousands of stirred-up activists who wanted nothing more to defeat healthcare, and Obama with it. They called it his "Waterloo," though in the end, Obama was Wellington, rather than the diminutive Corsican who saw his dreams of conquest fade that day.

America is a split country, ideologically. It has been this way for some time, now. When Clinton was in power, he was hated deeply by the right, who went after him with everything they could. When Bush bumbled his way through the Presidency, running our country (and much of the world) into the ground, we on the left were beside ourselves. We loathed both the man and his policy and made no secret of our derision. But Obama? The opposition to him and his party has reached a new level. It's different than what we've seen before. It's ballistic. It's rabid. It's insane.

Since Sunday's vote, ten Democratic members of Congress have received death threats. Bricks have been hurled through windows and family members' homes have been vandalized. When walking to the vote on Sunday, Black Democratic Congressmen had the word "nigger" shouted at them, and (openly gay) Rep. Barney Frank was repeated called "fag." I spend a lot of time reading the comment boards, and right wing poster after poster is calling for ARMED UPRISING against the government. Some welcome a COUP D'ETAT. There are pages after pages of commenters still insisting Obama was born in Kenya and/or that he's a secret Muslim. These are mainstream beliefs among modern Republicans. There's also a lot of talk about guns and "taking OUR country back." We saw the wingnuts show up to the political gatherings carrying pistols and assault rifles. Since Obama has taken office, firearm sales have soared, despite the fact that he's said or done nothing to restrict their sales. Sarah Palin - the teabagger pinup girl - posted a map of the US on her website, with Democratic Representatives from various states locked in on by rifle cross hairs, exhorting people to "Take a Stand!" Among many on the right, there is a sudden reverence for the original constitution and our "founding fathers," with no mention of the fact that many of the latter were slave owners, and that the former denied both women and non-propertied men the right to vote, among other archaic restrictions. These same Constitution enthusiasts were strangely silent during Bush/Cheney's 8-year assault on the very same document. The Patriot Act? Secret Detentions? Guantanamo Bay, anyone?

The GOP has allowed itself to become hijacked by the far right. By embracing the fringe elements of the Tea Party, they hoped to harness that raw energy to their benefit. Aided by lying blowhards like Glen Beck and Rush Limbaugh, it worked for a while. The fear mongering incited the lynch mob and turned the polls in their favor. But they should be careful what they wish for, because they may have birthed Frankenstein's monster. By fomenting such hatred, by going "all in" on health care and losing, the right is left with nothing but a bankruptcy of ideas, a surplus of hate, and a lot of really angry white people with guns. I fear it's only a matter of time before one of these wingnuts makes good on his message board promise, and then we'll really see the shit hit the fan.

here we go up, here we go down

We figured it was about time we showed the new kids around some of the non-drinking parts of Busan so we headed over to Geumnyeonsan, which is just past Gwangan, on Sunday for some mountain air...








... up and up we went ...




... until ....


...





... and then we needed a little break ...

....down, down, down we went ...





.. past the man giving saxophone lessons on the side of the road, past the badminton shack in the middle of nowhere ...


.. past the sweetly scented tree..


... past the cave so curious only Jeff Duffield had words to describe it ...

"Somewhere, nestled in the mountains of Geumnyeonsan Mountain, is the abode of the Korean Rambo. Life there is full of hardships: hunting the land for game, fishing the streams for substanance, and seeking peace of mind in a land where peace is a rare comodity. However, with great luck and persistance, the occasional group of wayfarers may wander upon his lair. Those rare few are blessed with a glimpse of life on the outskirts and the hardships entailed in the life of the life of the Korean Rambo. With all lessons learned, his blood will surely not be the first."  -  Jeff Duffield

... past the women with their offerings ...
until finally we arrived in ...

.... um?





.... somewhere out in Yeonsan Dong, where a very nice old man walked us to the subway, and where our  group was whittled down to the kids who wanted to watch Alice and her friends, and those that didn't.

Ps. I learned a very important lesson about camera lenses on Sunday ... but that lesson wasn't properly processed until Monday when I looked at my photos. Sorry about that small blurry spot that keeps popping up in the photos. Special apologies to Busan - you really did look quite beautiful from up there, but that damn spot did you wrong. Don't worry, she's clean now.


Sorry about the

Sorry about the lack of posts lately... all my spare time recently has been taken up by grad school.

Please trust that more reviews are on their way.

Tteokburger (Rice Cake Burger)

 
Korean street junk fusion is on the up. I feel like I’ve been reading for months about the Kogi Taco trucks in LA, and a few weeks ago, Zen Kimchi posted an interesting piece about the bulgoki hotdogs, chopped galbi and fries and beef and kimchi sandwiches that are becoming popular in the states. 

As most of these things seem to be happening in America though, thus far I haven’t really felt able to relate. On Friday night however, en route to the pub, I got the opportunity to sample what may well be the next item in this flavour mashing craze; the Tteokburger. 

Selling from a street stall near Gangnam station, the Rice Cake or ‘Tteok’ burger is pretty much what it sounds like. Beef patties are roughly formed around three or four thick, cylindrical ricecakes. They are then cooked on a hotplate, and sandwiched into a sesame seed  bun with some shredded cabbage and lots of ketchup and mustard. 

 

As street burgers go this was pretty good. The patty was thick and meaty (even with the addition of the rice cakes the burger probably had more beef than any of the nearby fast food chains,) and the tteok managed to lend a bit of substance to the burger without being intrusively chewy or bland. What I really loved about this burger however was the sauce overload. A couple of good squirts of ketchup and that watery Korean mustard (it looks like cheese in the photo) and the burger turned into the sort of cheap, sweet, messy affair that’s made for right between the third and fourth beers of a Friday night. 

Now that’s what I’m tteoking about! 

Surprise: employees want days off

Well, duh.  From the Chosun Ilbo:

Three out of four office workers are in favor of substituting national holidays that fall on a weekend during the working week, a survey finds. In the poll by the Korea Culture and Tourism Institute of 1,000 office workers released Tuesday, 767 were in favor of substituting holidays that fall on weekends.


Convicted criminal returns to job

Lee Kun-hee resigned or otherwise left (see below) his position as Chairman of Samsung and soon afterward went to jail as a result of his actions while running Samsung.  In a move fairly typical Korean justice with chaebol leaders, he was soon pardoned (the surprising thing is that he spent any time in jail at all).

He was released in February and will soon return to work in the same position at the same company that he broke the law in previously. Part of the reason for his pardon was his previous work on the International Olympics Committee.

He’d better bring the Olympics to Korea!

—-

Different papers describe the way he left Samsung (my bolding):

Korea Times:  Lee Kun-hee, 68, will rejoin Samsung Electronics as its chairman, two years after resigning from the group chairman’s post at the country’s largest conglomerate during a criminal investigation into the illegal transfer of corporate wealth to his family members.

Joongang: Lee’s return comes nearly two years after he voluntarily stepped down as the group’s chairman amid charges of tax evasion and illegal bond transactions.

Yonhap:  The 68-year-old Lee, who was forced to step down as chief of Samsung Group in April 2008 following his indictment in a tax evasion and breach of trust case, had been widely expected to return to Samsung’s management after the government pardoned him at the end of last year.


Convenience Culture

One of the biggest (+)'s of living in Korea is the culture of convenience. Restaurants will send ajossis on scooters to your door without a delivery charge (even if you only order a $3 kimchijjigae), and come back later to collect the plates. They even deliver McDonald's here. If you order something online from a Korean company, expect it to arrive at your doorstep within a couple of days.

IMG_0984
Down at the old rickety Wondang Markets the breezes of modernisation are slowly wafting in to this back alley of commerce. The singular and otherwise unremarkable not-so-super-market of the area now offers free home delivery of groceries. All you have to do is buy at least $30 worth of stuff, pile it into a basket and write your address and phone number on an attached piece of paper. The ajossis will then look at the papers and put the baskets in different rows according to location. Although in true ajossi fashion, they do feel the urge to over-complicate the operation by debating with each other as to the optimal placement of delivery basket.
When Operation Placement of Basket has been completed, you can do some further shopping or go straight home without having to carry your milk, juice and rice with you. The basket will arrive at your house around 2 hours later, complete with a tobacco-fragranced annyeonghaseyo.

My prediction for the year 2035 is that Korea will be the first country to start using delivery scooter-robots.

Pages

Subscribe to Koreabridge MegaBlog Feed