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Chronicles of Ottawa


"Let me tell you something. It's my first time wearing long underwear, and I'm thrilled."



Mildly dazed from an abrupt change in timezone, I stepped onto Canadian soil at 11:59pm  EST. Various warbled thoughts scrolled across my mind, like the digital messages on Ottawa Airport's looming timetable billboard. Baggage, in French, is bagage.

"Yes, bagage. That's what I need to pick up."

Air Canada provided a fairly pleasant ride over. A small exception to the experience was a yapping chihuahua in a cage, about 3 rows down. I didn't know that you could bring dogs into the passenger area. Well there you have it, you can. The constant yapping though, was not a fair trade-off for the small amount of new knowledge gained from the ordeal. You're not allowed to bring nail clippers onto a plane, but you're allowed to bring a potentially well-trained killer terrorist chihuahua. Not to mention that the dog itself could be full of explosive liquids.

Where was I? Oh yes, bagage.

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Ottawa's airport is fairly well designed, and I was able to locate my bagage by following the ample signage even though my CPU was running at only 25% capacity.

An amiable PhD student called Bao came and picked me up. Heading into the suburbs of Ottawa, it struck me that Canada looks a lot like Australia, but covered with snow. The traffic lights are extremely similar, as are the wide open spaces and large numbers of caucasians walking around. Perhaps I've been in Korea a little too long. By the time the odometer in Bao's Hyundai Sonata had clicked up ten kilometres from the airport, I had formed my first conclusion about Canada.
Canada is quite similar to Australia. And I love Australia.

Long live the Commonwealth!

With that jubilant thought ringing in my mind, I soon fell fast asleep in the Land of Maple Leaves/Syrup. 

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I'm here for a month of overseas research experience, funded by our department. My professor is based here and I'm going to be in his lab, shadowing some unfortunate PhD candidates and slowing them down with my Australian accent and learning speed.

During my time here, I hope to see a bit of Ottawa and learn a lot of new laboratory know-how.

Also high on my agenda is to see a muskox and a sundog.

These are muskoxen  (Ovibos moschatus). Warm, wise and probably unfriendly.

This is what a sundog looks like.

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And here's what Bao's street looks like. I haven't seen any muskoxen around these parts, but I have yet to check out his backyard.

This week I'm scheduled to get rid of my jetlag and learn more about this strange icy country and the lab protocols contained within.

Will report back soon. Stay warm and stay tuned.

영어 Hint of the Day (비지너스) #12: FREE Business Writing Book (Kindle Edition)

Receive a free copy of Kaplan MBA Fundamental Business Writing (Kindle Edition).

eBooks are cheaper, and space-saving alternatives to the endless number of books that you can find at Bandi and Luni's and Kyobo Book Store.  Admittedly, it is fun to go to those stores and look around, and experience the energy in the stores.

However, Koreans are generally in the need for more space, and more time.  What could be more convenient than downloading a free book from the comfort of your own home/coffee shop (only if you have Alleh).  In addition, while this book may be an advanced version, it will not be error-prone like the ones that you will find in Korea.

Instructions:
a.  Look to the right column of this blog, in the "My Faves at Amazon.com" box.  Inside the box should be the title "English Learning Guides."
b.  There should be 2-3 books in the window.  One of the books will have a comment below it in red.  That is the free one.  If the book doesn't appear there, then you can go to the next page (there should be 2 pages of books in that window).  I cannot control the order of the books, but I am certain it is in that particular box. 

This book costs more than USD 12.00 and as a result something like KRW 15,000 at the minimum.  The Seoul Gyopo Guide has never asked for a donation, but in this case, it may be appropriate if only to pay for the domain.  In no way will that change the goals of The Lost Seoul or the Seoul Gyopo Guide.  Good Luck getting your free book!


Meet the Foreigners


This is Mr. and Mrs. Foreigner. They are very much in love. They live in Korea, and sometimes they encounter things that are too funny not to be shared.
Mr. Foreigner bought Mrs. Foreigner a pen tablet for Christmas.

Let the awesome begin. (But remember that these things take some time).

The Hyundai E&C Fiasco: Doesn't Anyone Remember 1997-98? (update 1)

Hasn't the South Korean Economy Already Been Down This Road???  Yikes.
Today, as expected, Hyundai Motor Group was named as the preferred bidder for Hyundai Engineering and Construction.  The JoongAng Ilbo had earlier reported on the Hyundai Group's potential lack of funding for a purchase of Hyundai E&C.  In August 2010, Hyundai Group announced its intent to bid for Hyundai E&C.  There were suspicions that the Hyundai Group did not properly secure funding for its bid.  As a result, the Financial Supervisory Service (FSS) has now approved Hyundai Motor's selection as the preferred bidder.
Much of the press coverage in Korea has centered on the conflict among the members of the founding family of the Hyundai Group, whose affiliates once included Hyundai Motor Corporation and Hyundai Heavy Corporation.  In short, if the first word of a Korean company is called "Hyundai," then it was under the same corporate umbrella at one time or another.

Hyundai's Complicated Family and Corporate Ties
Currently, Hyundai Motor Group is headed by 71-year-old chairman Chung Mong-koo, son of Hyundai founder Chung Ju-yung. Hyundai Group is controlled by Chung Mong-koo's sister-in-law Hyun Jeong-enu.  Hyundai E&C was part of the Hyundai Group until 2001 when creditors took a 35% controlling share in the business.  
The Hyundai conglomerate was split into two separate companies in 1997-98 following the Asian financial crisis.  Hyundai Motor Group, which includes Hyundai Motor, Hyundai Steel and Kia Motors, was headed by Chung Mong-koo and Hyundai Group, which includes Hyundai Elevator, Hyundai Securities and Hyundai Asan, was led by his brother Chung Mong-hun.  Chung Mong-hun committed suicide in 2003 following accusations of false accounting when he faced a prison term, leaving his wife to succeed him as chairperson. 

The Feud Isn't The Real Issue
If you can understood the previous paragraphs without reading it twice, then you are either a historian, or a member of the Chung family.  The real issue, however, is not the fact that there are warring factions of the same extended family competing for the crown jewel Hyundai E&C.
However, the fact that there is now again the possibility of the same type of cross-holdings of financial interests such as debt, and equity by the different entities is highly alarming. It is precisely this type of corporate structure that led to difficulties which threatened the entire Korean economy, and brought the Korean banking system to its knees.
Korea can ill-afford this type of situation again.  Hyundai Motor Group has made enormous gains in the most important markets in the world.  In fact, Hyundai Motor now enjoys an 8.7% market share in the U.S., which is greater than Japan's Nissan.  Many years ago, there was no quality comparison between Hyundai and its Japanese competitors.  That is no longer the case.  The same can be said about many Korean corporations.  This type of corporate infighting, and the financial mess that accompanied it, must be avoided at all costs.
To be fair, Korea's economy is far stronger, far more diverse, and far more able to fight off an individual corporate event.  Nevertheless, a single case can be used as a precedent for future ones.  It isn't the specific Hyundai E&C debacle that is necessarily critical;  it is the fact that this pattern of financial transactions should not occur due to the inherent problems these transactions create.
The FSS must make absolutely sure that there are no situations where the cross holdings of financial interests can occur, and that over-reliance for liquidity does not rest at one bank.  During the Asian Financial Crisis of 1997-98, it became obvious that the largest chaebol were borrowing from primarily one bank, and when that chaebol was in financial distress, that individual bank was also distressed.  This can be avoided only if the financial authorities make sure that there are adequate rules, and enforcement of those rules.  Given the very spotty record of the FSS, perhaps it would be better to avoid this situation altogether, and disallow both Hyundai Motor and Hyundai Group from purchasing Hyundai E&C.


In search of democracy – or – Destination: 5.18 Memorial Cemetary (Gwangju)

The 5.18 Memorial Cemetary (국립 5.18 민주묘지, guk-rib min-ju-myo-ji) is a reminder of how much a city – and a country – can change in a short period of time. It’s also a reminder of how new Korea’s democracy is. Lest anyone think Korea hasn’t learned from their history, let this be a place to remind them of.

Since literally hundreds of books – and an excellent Wikipedia article – have been written on the Gwangju democracy movement, let’s keep this a short and simple summary of the events at hand.

Korean president Park Chung-hee was assassinated on October 26, 1979, leaving then-Prime Minister Choi Kyu-hah as Acting President. Martial law was declared, and Choi had little control over South Korea’s army. On December 12, 1979, Chun Doo-hwan and other military officers pulled off a coup d’état. In April of 1980, Chun was promoted to director of the KCIA, or Korea Central Intelligence Agency. By then, student groups and professors supportive of democracy had begun gathering in force to protest the martial law and demand freedom of the press, among other things. On May 15, 1980, 100,000 participated in a protest outside of Seoul Station. Two days later, martial law was expanded to the entire country, political activity was banned, the press was further restricted, and universities were closed.

On May 18, 1980, students gathered outside of Cheonnam University in Gwangju. Around 10am, around 200 students and 30 paratroopers began to clash. The protest moved downtown and grew in size. By May 20th, there were 100,000 protesters, and an unknown number of them were killed around Gwangju station. A local TV station building was burned down after misreporting the news out of Gwangju, while hundreds of taxi drivers supported the citizens by taking some to the hospital or blocking the soldiers’ way. The next day, the protesters had raided nearby cities for weapons, which caused the military to retreat.

On May 22nd, the military had retreated to suburban areas, blocking all routes and communication out of Gwangju. A couple of committees were formed by the civilians of Gwangju, advocating peace and negotiating for the release of people that had been arrested. The military prepared to attack on May 26th, and at 4am the next morning, five divisions converged on the protesters. It’s fairly safe to say there were plenty of dead people.

While the Gwangju rebellion didn’t directly bring democracy to South Korea, it fueled further movements that eventually led to the modern-day democratic country that the world knows today. After South Korea’s first democratic elections in 1987, the National Assembly had a public hearing; in 1996, the politicians responsible were indicted, although their punishments were pardoned the following year. May 18th was made an official holiday in 1997, and the 5.18 Memorial cemetery was made a national cemetery in 2002.

The modern incarnation of the cemetery is tourist-friendly, and an excellent primer to the events. Our tour guide, a friendly Korean women in her twenties gestured us into a video viewing room, where we would watch a thirty-minute documentary. That English-language video uses the available video from the event – this was 1980, not 1880. If there’s one thing you can say about some of Korea’s destinations, there is definitely an order to the way things are meant to be seen.



Upon entering the exhibit part of the museum, you’re struck with the relics of the event – stopped watches, a blood-stained 태극기 (tae-geuk-gi, or Korean flag), and a torch that led the protestors’ way. While there isn’t much to engage your other senses, the visual aspect, accentuated by the vivid colors on the second floor, are enough to prepare you for what’s next.

Once properly made aware of how and why these people died, it’s time to appreciate the people resting here. The official or exact death toll remains in dispute, but the May 18 Bereaved Family Association reports 165 dead and 65 missing, while the May 18 Memorial foundation reports there were 4,141 wounded. Hundreds of people are buried in this newer cemetery, immortalized with a black-and-white school-yearbook-like photo.

Speaking of photos, there are hundreds of them here. This basketball-court-sized hall was perfectly still, and was as solemn as the tombs themselves. Just like the cemetery, there is ample room for future honored additions; indeed, photos have been added as recently as last month and continue to be added.

Beyond the cemetery and photographic memorials, a series of seven bas-reliefs show the history of civil disobedience or resistance. The symbolism is easy enough for the average tourist to figure out, and is a reminder that fighting for freedom is far from a single part of Korean history.

To continue exploring the history of this movement, walk across the street to the old cemetery or across town to the 5.18 Liberty Park / Memorial Culture Center. The former is the original resting place of the victims, while the latter is a recreation of a military police compound. A number of related sights are around Gwangju, although it does begin to feel like you’re getting beat over the head by then.

As we walked around the park, we couldn’t help but notice a group of young Koreans, dressed in prison clothing yet walking with a smile on their face. They were actors, having finished their shots for their day, yet seemingly happy at getting their story out for the world to see. Here’s hoping Korea’s present and future leaders remember that Koreans will fight to be free, and don’t take oppression laying down.


Ratings (out of 5 taeguks): How do I rate destinations?
Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:

Author’s note: A version of this article is published in January 2011′s issue of the Groove.

Directions to 5.18 Memorial Cemetery: Get to Gwangju – from Seoul’s Yongsan station, every class of Korean trains make the trip. Once at Gwangju station, walk out to the main road, turn right, and head towards the bus stop. Take the appropriately-numbered bus 518 (comes every 25-30 minutes) north to the cemetery – it’ll sound like 국립 5.18 민주묘지 (guk-rib min-ju-myo-ji). Free admission; hours not specified.

Directions to 5.18 Memorial Park: take line 1 of the Gwangju subway system to the Kim Dae-Jung Convention Center station. Take exit 5 to street level, then walk straight and pass the KDJ Convention Center. Cross the street, then turn right and walk about 100 meters to the park entrance. Free admission; hours not specified.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe – 2010

This post was originally published on my blog,Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

 

Best Year Ever? Rose & Shane's 2010 Year in Pictures

Indulge me for a moment while I venture away from writing about life here in Korea and reflect upon the year now passed. 


For us, 2010 brought change and renewal, inspiration and gratitude.


Domestic travel opportunities brought us to Arizona, Colorado, and Chicago.
 All beautiful.
 Best part: spending time with Andrea, Mackenzie, and Miranda.







In one week, Shane got a tattoo, 






we signed our contracts for jobs in Korea,




and Shane proposed-- in true Wisconsin style-- in front of the Wisconsin capital building. We celebrated with hiking, wandering the farmer's market, watching the World Cup, fine dining, and soaking in sunset views. 

We both began to take better care of ourselves physically. This year, we've lost a combined 40 pounds. We also ran our first 5k. Well, Shane ran it, I "jog-walked" it. 




The 5k was a charity even for the Wisconsin Institute for Learning Disabilities/Dyslexia, Inc., my former workplace. It was a wonderful job that was hard to say goodbye to, especially when they threw me a surprise party.


Shane honed his hobby of home brewing and kept us in full stock of drinkables.


And got back on the stage, performing in Busan Night Live, a sketch comedy show.




He also got to sit courtside at a Milwaukee Bucks/Denver Nuggets Game. He high fived Luc Richard Mbah A Moute and Kurt Thomas. A very big deal for him. He also high fived Carlos Delfino, a very big deal to me.




The year was not without shenanigans....


 


Our families gave us a lot of reasons to celebrate: Sara & Nick's wedding (Shane's sister) and announcement of twins on the way, Shane's oldest brother getting engaged to Sophie, a new nephew, Baby Henry, and birthdays of nieces and nephews. We grew closer to our families and spent more time with them this summer than ever before.




Of course, the year was not without difficulty. We packed the collection of our lives tidily into boxes for storage, said temporary goodbyes to too many friends and family members before the move. Living miles and miles from home has at times left us tinged with heartsickness, and military tension on the peninsula made us question the leap of faith we had made when coming here. 

BUT YET. 
It has been the best year ever.


Leap and the net will appear. 
Be bold and might forces will come to your aid.

We hope 2011 will be your best year ever. Happy New Year!

Independence Day 2010

4 Jul 2010, The Fourth of July is a special day in America. To celebrate our nation's independence, Americans enjoy a patriotic morning parade and a fireworks show at night.

Off Key

Recently I met a man on the subway who fought for Korea in the Vietnam War. When I'm old, the only war story I'll have to tell my son is how I fought in the Credit Crisis. It's not nearly the same thing, but I didn't emerge from the financial battle we traders fought unscathed; my keyboard was damaged when a wall hit it after one of my data providers failed at a crucial point in the conflict. So for the last three years the keyboard has been propped up on my desk by the handle of a screwdriver. In this life you should live with the consequences of your mistakes... unless you actually caused the Credit Crisis, then apparently, not so much.

The Financial Crisis was a little like the Korean War; it ended in a stalemate rather than a victory. But now relative peace has returned to the financial world and our thoughts slowly turn to the process of rebuilding, I've decided to buy a new keyboard. I write a lot, so I'd like a nice keyboard, but that's always been a difficult task. These days keyboards are often made to the lowest common denominator because few people care enough to pay for high quality mechanisms beneath the keys, and I rue the day I let go of one of the early Model M IBM keyboards that some university friends and I liberated a job lot of from a dumpster in the grounds of a large company we'd trespassed onto. IBM spared no expense in making keyboards back then – I think they charged $200 for them. That was a lot of money in those days – to put it into perspective if everyone who bought one of those early IBM keyboards had bought something cheaper and given the rest of the money to Ethiopia instead, there would have been no famine. Ten years later the Ethiopians were still suffering from hunger but these excellent and still very usable keyboards were sitting outside in corporate rubbish bins all across the Western world. And we're very proud of our civilisation.

When I first came to Busan, I only had my English laptop and I needed a Korean keyboard to plug into it, but in those early days the quickest and lowest common denominator option was buying a $10 LG keyboard from a branch of Hi-Mart. I believed that the quality of the keyboard must be reasonable because it was made by LG and they wouldn't put their name to cheap rubbish. I was naïve about Korea back then.

Admittedly, $10 seemed quite cheap for a keyboard, but I really had no idea about Korean prices just after arriving here. As it happens, the keyboard had a dead feel to it which I quickly decided I didn't like, and a couple of keys which either didn't like to be depressed, or if they did, didn't like to come up properly afterwards. That was one of my first cultural lessons in Korea – the chaebols really don't care what they stick their name on, and rather more oddly, neither – apparently - do Korean consumers. In fact if I was in any doubt, shortly afterwards I figured out that Daelim make toilets, and motorcycles. Worse, in our neighbourhood we have a Daelim motorcycle dealership and the Daelim toilet dealership is only a few doors away, so it's hard to avoid. The potential for parody is enormous and you'd never, ever, get away with that in a Western country. I still don't quite follow how any self-respecting Korean youth can sit proudly on their Daelim while not thinking that back home their father is probably in the bathroom sitting on his.


Later I bought another keyboard from another Korean manufacturer which was a bit more expensive but strangely developed exactly the same fault. Then I bought a computer, which came with another keyboard. This had the now unique quality of actually working properly, but unfortunately it was also the one involved in the Credit Crisis friendly-fire incident.

Because I spend a lot of my life living in the dark these days – it's a Korean social metaphor as well as referring to the lighting in my office – I'd like a backlit keyboard. It won't help my life in Korea but it will help my typing. Even though there are quite a few backlit keyboards around, it's apparently little too specialist to find in the local branch of my unnervingly-friendly electronics store, and there aren't nearly as many specialist computer stores here as you might expect because people use public PC rooms, their phones, and if they need a computer at home, the Internet to buy things from. There are two billion clothes shops in Busan – I know – I've counted them - but in all my time here I've only ever seen six computer stores, seven if you include a store that improbably just sells games for the 0.1% of people here who don't seem to pirate their software.

I can't really ask my wife to help me because she's so busy with our baby these days, and she's suffering from ICSF - Internet Comparison Shopping Fatigue - a serious health problem which big media is suppressing for their corporate masters. Fortunately I don't have one of those Korean wives that spends her life looking lovingly at her husband's wallet, but now I'm living in Korea with an insufficient level of Korean language ability, it does make it difficult for me to buy things too.

So my trick is to search through Amazon.com, find product codes, and enter them into Korea's shopping search engines along with the smattering of Korean I know such as '키보드' and '바보'. It usually gets results but the problem is too many results. Sites like Gmarket and Auction are just like eBay – so much so in fact that eBay bought both of them - with multiple vendors selling the same item at sometimes suspiciously different prices. But whereas eBay is just one option in the online shopping space in England and the U.S., this seems to be how the vast majority of Internet shopping is done in Korea. Back in England, I'd know exactly which specialist online sellers to deal with – and when you found what you were looking for – it was only one entry on a page with one price and one set of claims, not twenty. And crucially, my attention wasn't being sapped by fifty different flashing boxes on the web page while I tried to read.

And there's another problem. After browsing through Amazon I found one of the Logitech keyboards I was looking for in Korea. But then I took a closer look at the product pictures – and while they were small, there was no mistaking the fact that they were pictures of the American product. That's the thing about keyboards with letters which are lit – it's easy to tell that there's only one letter on a key, and the Korean letter is at best, not lit up, or at worst, not there at all. I've encountered this before with another keyboard I was thinking of buying – there were no Korean letters, which surprised me before my wife told me that Koreans didn't necessarily mind that much because they knew where the Korean characters were as long as the English letters were visible, which is no use to me. Are these people selling the American product or the local Korean equivalent? I'm not sure, but what I do know is that despite this being a very shopping-driven culture, a lot of the actual selling technique strikes me as being half-assed. You'd think people would care about what they sell, but consumer protection law isn't very strong here, so perhaps issues such as accuracy and putting the right product picture up aren't so important.

I think there might be a business opportunity there. After all, if a tiny minority of Koreans choose to actually buy software rather than copy it from their friends, I can't help thinking that there might be a few Koreans who would prefer a more Westernised Internet shopping experience, where visiting an e-commerce page doesn't make you feel like you're tripping acid. Plus, with so many people here these days using their phones, iPads and other CPU and bandwidth-challenged non-Windows devices, maybe – just maybe – the era of Internet Explorer-only 10Mb Korean web pages needs to come to an end.

Meanwhile, my search for a keyboard goes on.

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영어 Hint of the Day #26: How to Correctly Use the Phrase "set out"

영어 Hint of the Day #26: How to Correctly Use the Phrase "set out"

The phrase "set out" isn't difficult to understand.  "출발하다" is pretty accurate and literal.  It can certainly mean to begin, as in a trip, or a journey.  The point of the phrase is that there is a specific destination.  That destination can be either literal (a specific place) or figurative (success).

Examples:
a.  Min-ho set out on his way to work.
b.  Hee-Young set out on her way to success by entering Brown University.
c.  The Lost Seoul has set out to create a useful blog for Koreans and non-Koreans alike.

Notes:
The subject that "sets out" is almost always an animate object.  It can a person, or group of people.  While it may not be technically wrong for an inanimate object to be the subject that "sets out," The Lost Seoul cannot think of any examples in which the subject in inanimate.


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