We're up to lesson 4 out of a total of 20 episodes in my newest course, "Korean Conversation Course." This course is for learners who've passed the basics and want to start entering real, natural Korean conversations - conversations you can encounter in Korea today.
This lesson's conversation is about going to a store and buying a new computer, and talking with the store worker about what to buy.
In the predawn hours, when most sane souls are still cocooned in the warmth of their beds, there’s a sacred magic brewing in the world. It’s the time when shadows dance differently, and light paints the sky in hues only the early risers witness. This is the time when Seuldo Island, nestled in the embrace of Dong-gu Ulsan, reveals its raw beauty to those willing to chase the dawn.
My recent escapade to Seuldo was born from the ashes of a canceled photowalk, a casualty of unpredictable weather. But sometimes, the best adventures stem from unexpected beginnings. Armed with my camera and a craving for connection with the lens, I embarked on a solitary journey, seeking solace in the solitude of dawn.
Seuldo, with its seaside cafes and Instagram-worthy canola flowers, is a siren song for many. But for me, the allure lies in the tranquil morning hours, where the world whispers secrets only the early risers can hear. As I stumbled out of bed, late yet eager, I found myself greeted by a celestial surprise—a massive moon lingering behind the lighthouse, casting a silver glow upon the waking world.
With adrenaline coursing through my veins, I hastily set up my gear, grateful for the 70-200mm lens that framed the scene with perfection. As if scripted by fate, a fellow shutterbug emerged from the darkness, his energy mirroring my own. In the silent communion of photographers, we shared a moment, capturing the fleeting beauty of dawn with our lenses.
With the sunrise as our muse, we danced with light and shadow, each click of the shutter a testament to our shared passion. And as quickly as our paths crossed, he vanished into the morning mist, leaving me to ponder my next destination.
The allure of Gyeongju beckoned, its ancient charm calling to my wandering soul. Amidst centuries-old temples and blooming cherry blossoms, I found inspiration in every corner. The forest of “double blossoms” whispered tales of seasons past, their delicate petals a symphony of color against the backdrop of history.
Amidst the tranquility of nature, I found my muse—a solitary tree adorned with pink blossoms, its branches reaching towards the heavens. In that moment, I became a storyteller, capturing the essence of time in a single frame.
As I retraced my steps homeward, exhaustion mingled with euphoria, a testament to the day’s endeavors. In the quiet of my sanctuary, I marveled at the memories captured through my lens, each image a testament to the beauty of the world awakened.
In a life filled with choices, I am grateful for the moments when I choose to chase the dawn, to embrace the unknown with open arms. For in those fleeting moments, I find not only photographs but fragments of my soul scattered amidst the pixels—a reminder that the greatest adventures lie just beyond the horizon.
So here’s to Seuldo Island, to Gyeongju’s ancient allure, and to the serendipitous moments that shape our journey. May we continue to chase the dawn, one click of the shutter at a time, in search of stories yet untold.
~기는 (commonly shortened to ~긴) is from the ~기 nominalization form and the Topic Marker 는 (기 + 는) and has several uses, one of which is when disagreeing with someone else. It's also used when admitting something to someone, but not completely. I explain all of its major uses in this live stream.
Note that this is the last live classroom until I return from Korea at the end of July. I hope to do a regular live stream while I'm there, as well as possibly another fan meetup in Seoul, so look forward to some more upcoming announcements soon!
Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) at Unheungsa Temple in Goseong, Gyeongsangnam-do.
Temple History
Unheungsa Temple is situated up a long valley between Mt. Bongamsan (434.6 m) and Mt. Baekamsan (403 m) to the far west of Goseong, Gyeongsangnam-do. Unheungsa Temple was first constructed in 676 A.D. by the famed monk Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.). Little is known about the temple until it was used to raise an army of some 6,000 warrior monks during the Imjin War (1592-98) and led by Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610). A large portion of the temple was destroyed at this time. It wasn’t until 1651 that the temple was partially rebuilt. The current Daeung-jeon Hall and Yeongsan-jeon Hall were reconstructed in 1731.
Additionally, there was a bronze bell at Unheungsa Temple that was first made in 1690. However, during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45), it was smuggled off to Japan.
Unheungsa Temple has two hermitages directly associated with it. They are Seodokam Hermitage and Cheonjinam Hermitage. It’s believed that Cheonjinam Hermitage was first founded in 1692, while the water of Seodokam Hermitage is so powerful that alcohol can’t be made using this hermitage water.
You’ll first approach Unheungsa Temple up a long valley road. This secluded mountain road leads up to the equally secluded temple grounds. Along the way, you’ll pass by the stately Iljumun Gate. From the temple parking lot, and up a flight of stone stairs, you’ll see the newly built Boje-ru Pavilion. This newly constructed entry pavilion is beautifully perched on a large, stone barrier. You’ll pass through the first story of the structure and climb up a narrow set of a stairs as a modern, third-story pagoda comes into view.
To the left of the main altar are a collection of three paintings. The first, and closest to the main altar, is a replica of the “Hanging Painting and Storage Chest of Unheungsa Temple.” The original, which dates back to 1730, is only brought out on the most important of days like Buddha’s Birthday. To the left of this smaller sized replica is a mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). And to the left of this shaman mural is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). To the right of the main altar, on the other hand, is a stunning Gamno-do (Sweet Dew Mural) that dates back to 1730. It’s quite a large painting at 245.5 cm in height and 254 cm wide. It was created by the monk painter Uigyeom, who was a renowned painter in the Jeolla Province area during the 18th century along with 12 other painters. You’ll also find a painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) in this area of the main hall, as well as a replica of the “Buddhist Painting of Unheungsa Temple, Goseong (Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva).” Like the Gamno-do, the original of this painting dates back to 1730, and it was also painted by Uigyeom. The original is Korean Treasure #1694. The interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall is packed with beautiful Buddhist artistry.
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall is the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. Like the main hall, the exterior of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall is adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, you’ll find a solitary green-haired image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Joining Jijang-bosal inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall are the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). They are large, wooden images of the Siwang. And both entrances to the Myeongbu-jeon Hall are a guarded by two, large Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors).
Between the Daeung-jeon Hall and the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, and still to the right of the main hall, you’ll find a smaller Sanshin-gak Hall. This shaman shrine hall is solely dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). The modern painting dedicated to Sanshin is joined in the painting by a rather inquisitive-looking tiger and a pair of dongja (attendants) carrying a basket of fruit that includes a peach and pomegranate.
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, on the other hand, is the Yeongsan-jeon Hall, which is the other historic shrine hall at Unheungsa Temple. Like the Daeung-jeon Hall, the Yeongsan-jeon Hall dates back to 1731. Like all the shrine halls at the temple, the exterior walls to the Yeongsan-jeon Hall are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues resting on the main altar. In the centre is a statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is joined on either side by Yeondeung-bul (The Past Buddha) and Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). This main altar triad is joined on both sides (eight on each side) of the sixteen Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). While they appear simple in design, they are still quite masterfully sculpted.
How To Get There
From the Samcheonpo Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to catch Bus #30 to get to Unheungsa Temple. This bus goes directly to the temple. This bus says “Budu (부두) – Unheungsa (운흥사)” on it. There is also the same bus numbered Bus #30 that reads “부두-홀곡-운흥사” on it. This bus also goes to Unheungsa Temple, but it takes about ten minutes more. In total, the direct bus, Bus #30, takes about thirty minutes, or 16 stops, to get to Unheungsa Temple, while the other bus takes about 40 minutes.
Overall Rating: 7/10
While smaller in size, and with only a handful of shrine halls, Unheungsa Temple still has more than enough for visitors to enjoy including the five provincial treasures and the pair of Korean Treasures. The interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall is filled with Buddhist artistic excellence including the main altar triad, the Gamno-do, and the shaman murals. Additionally, the statues inside both the Yeongsan-jeon Hall and the Myeongbu-jeon Hall are stunning as well. Unheungsa Temple has undergone a fair amount of reconstruction over the past decade, and it has only helped elevate the temple that much higher in its overall beauty and overall aesthetic.
The Daeung-jeon Hall (left) and Myeongbu-jeon Hall (right).
A look inside the Daeung-jeon Hall at the main altar.
The paintings to the left of the main altar that include the Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural), a Chilseong (Seven Stars) painting, and a replica of the “Hanging Painting and Storage Chest of Unheungsa Temple.”
A nun praying in front of the historic Gamno-do (Sweet Dew Mural) inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
One of the Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors) inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall.
Four of the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld) inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall.
The Sanshin-gak Hall located between the Daeung-jeon Hall and the Myeongbu-jeon Hall.
The beautiful, modern mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the Sanshin-gak Hall.
The Yeongsan-jeon Hall at Unheungsa Temple.
The main altar inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall.
And a collection of some of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall, as well.
The View from Wonhyoam Hermitage in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do.
Hermitage History
Wonhyoam Hermitage, which is one among eight hermitages with the same name in Korea, is located in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do on the western slopes of Mt. Cheonseongsan (920.1 m), which means “A Thousand Saints Mountain” in English. In fact, the hermitage is situated at 900 metres above sea level. The hermitage is named after the famed monk Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.), who lived and taught in the area. It’s said that Wonhyo-daesa first established Wonhyoam Hermitage in 646 A.D., which is also the very same year that neighbouring Tongdosa Temple was first established, as well.
As to how Wonhyo-daesa first came to the region, there’s a rather interesting legend. According to a legend written in the “Songgoseungjeon” (僧傳 宋), there were 1,000 Chinese monks worshiping at Taehwasa Temple in Tang China (618–690, 705–907 A.D.). They were in danger of being buried at the temple because of torrential rain and the potential for a landslide. Upon realizing this, Wonhyo-daesa threw a wooden board up into the air. The monks saw this strange board in midair and thought that it was rather mysterious. As a result, they all ran out of the shrine hall. After they had all exited the temple, a landslide destroyed the shrine hall. However, because of the wooden signboard, which read “Throwing the board, Wonhyo saves the people,” Wonhyo-daesa did in fact save the one thousand monks at the temple. Because of this, the one thousand monks sought Wonhyo-daesa. These one thousand monks would eventually become Wonhyo-daesa’s one thousand disciples.
After arriving on the Korean Peninsula, Wonhyo-daesa went in search of a place to stay with his 1,000 disciples. Eventually, they would arrive at Mt. Cheonseongsan. Here, they were greeted by Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), who guided them to the general area of where Naewonsa Temple was eventually built. After guiding Wonhyo-daesa and his disciples, the Mountain Spirit quickly disappeared. In addition to Naewonsa Temple and Wonhyoam Hermitage, there were a total of some 89 temples or hermitages built in the area; however, most of these 89 temples were lost during the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) caused by flooding. And now, only a few them remain including Wonhyoam Hermitage.
Eventually Wonhyoam Hermitage would fall into disrepair and be rebuilt by the monk Hyo-eun in 1905. In 1976, the Jong-ru Pavilion was built. And during the 2010s, the hermitage underwent a large scale rebuild with the construction of the Daeung-jeon Hall and a Samseong-gak Hall.
Interestingly, the hermitage has a rather fascinating modern story attached to it, as well. In the summer of 1991, a thunderstorm without rain erupted around the hermitage for two hours. A fireball from this storm struck Saja-bong (Lion Peak), which is located east of Wonhyoam Hermitage. As a result of this lightning strike, a blackened figure was discovered on the rocks by hikers the next day. The image that was formed by the strike looked similar to the image of a Buddha, Yaksayeorae-bul. Later, the abbot of Tongdosa Temple, Wolha, saw the image and named it “Cheonwang Yaksayeorae,” which means “Heavenly Light Buddha of Medicine.” It was named this because Yaksayeorae-bul resides in the Eastern Paradise, which is where the lightning struck near Wonhyoam Hermitage.
You’ll first approach Wonhyoam Hermitage up a very long mountain road that’s nearly eight kilometres in length. Along the way, you’ll get some breathtaking views along the way. The road is especially beautiful in the spring when the azaleas are in bloom and during the fall when the trees are changing into their autumnal hues. Eventually, you’ll come to a parking lot for hikers. Mt. Cheonseongsan is a very popular mountain for hikers. But it’s beyond this parking lot, and to the north, that you’ll find a gravel road that leads up to Wonhyoam Hermitage.
The first thing to capture your attention along the way is the elevated Jong-ru Pavilion. The exterior of the bell pavilion is adorned with vibrant dancheong colours and images of a yellow and blue dragon. And housed inside the Jong-ru Pavilion is a large Brahma Bell. It’s also in this area behind the Jong-ru Pavilion, that you’ll see a sign leading up to a shrine in the forested mountain area. In total, there are 108 stairs that lead up to the shrine that houses the “Cheonwang Yaksayeorae.”
Back at the bell pavilion and nearing a bend in the gravel road, you’ll find the newly built Daeung-jeon Hall at Wonhyoam Hermitage. But before entering the Daeung-jeon Hall, you might have noticed a little rock outcropping that’s off-limits to the general public. This is purportedly where Wonhyo-daesa used to meditate. And it’s not surprising considering the amazing view of the city of Yangsan below that you get to enjoy from this vantage point. In fact, out in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall, there’s a look-out that you can safely look down upon the city of Yangsan.
Surrounding the Daeung-jeon Hall are a collection of larger sized modern statues. And surrounding the exterior walls of the recently built Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a wonderful collection of paintings dedicated to Wonhyo-daesa and his life. The exterior walls are also adorned with various flower murals like lotus flowers and peonies, as well as Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities), and Gwimyeon (Monster Masks).
Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the “Seated Stone Statue of Yaksayeorae-bul and Concealed Objects” resting on the main altar in the centre of a triad. The statue is a 77 cm tall stone statue of Yaksayeorae-bul. According to the dedication on the statue, it was originally enshrined in the Yaksa-jeon Hall at Tongdosa Temple and later moved to Wonhyoam Hermitage. This statue bows its head slightly forward and hunches it back somewhat. The palm of its right hand is down in the “Touching the Earth Mudra.” The left hand is naturally proportioned, but the thumb of the right hand is shorter and the side is a bit thicker. The head is rather small compared to its body. The folds of the monastic robe hangs over its two knees, which are in a lotus position. The robe is rather thick, which is one of the characteristics of Buddhist statues from the latter half of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). It’s believed that the statue dates back to 1648 based upon the writing found on the statue. The objects found inside the statue include a dedication document, a sutra, a case that contained five grains, five incenses, and five color strands of material.
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall is an outdoor shrine that looks like it’s nothing more than a platform and a large boulder. However, etched on this large stone is the “Yangsan Wonhyoam Hermitage Amita-bul Triad Relief.” This triad has Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) at the centre of the triad and joined by Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). This triad is in low relief. The lower half of the Amita-bul image looks much longer than the upper half to give an overall impression of stability. The flanking Bodhisattvas make a mudra that symbolizes adoration towards the central Buddha. Each of the images has a circular nimbus. The two Bodhisattvas give the triad an overall symmetry. Above the triad you’ll find an inscription which reads “Namu Amita-bul.” According to an inscription to the right of Daesaeji-bosal, it states “Sejon Eunghwa 2933” (of the Buddhist calendar, which makes it 1906 of the Gregorian calendar).
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, on the other hand, is the hermitage’s kitchen, monks’ dorms, abbot’s quarters, and administrative offices. It’s behind the main hall that you’ll find the final shrine hall at Wonhyoam Hermitage. Up a set of stairs, and at a bit of an angle to fit the mountain’s curves, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls of this shaman shrine hall are adorned with two stunning murals. The first is a ferocious tiger, while the other is dedicated to the smoking tiger mural. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find vibrant high-relief wood altar pieces dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), Chilseong (The Seven Stars), and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). In addition to these reliefs, you’ll find two murals dedicated to Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.) and Wonhyo-daesa. Also tucked away in a corner, and seen through a pane of glass, is a stone statue dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King).
How To Get There
Like a lot of smaller hermitages or temples, this hermitage is a bit of a chore to get to and find. You can take Bus #12 or Bus #12-1 headed towards Tongdosa Temple. You’ll need to get off at Daeseok Village. This area is around the more famous Hongryongsa Temple. The hermitage has a shuttle bus that ventures up the long mountain road. The shuttle bus can be found out in front of the Wonhyoam Hermitage shop. And this shuttle bus leaves four times a day at 9 a.m., 10 a.m., 11 a.m., and 1 p.m. Otherwise, it’s a long eight kilometres up to the hermitage.
Overall Rating: 6/10
Wonhyoam Hermitage has a stunning view of the city of Yangsan down below from the heights of Mt. Cheonseongsan. In addition to the views, you can also enjoy the two provincial treasures inside the newly built Daeung-jeon Hall and the 1906 low-relief of Amita-bul on the face of the mountain. The wood reliefs inside the Samseong-gak Hall are stunning as are the two tiger paintings that adorn the exterior walls of the shaman shrine hall. Wonhyoam Hermitage is a beautiful blend of nature and Buddhist artistry that should definitely be enjoyed.
A rock outcropping where Wonhyo-daesa purportedly once meditated.
The colourful Jong-ru Pavilion at Wonhyoam Hermitage.
The pathway and stairs leading up to the “Cheonwang Yaksayeorae.”
The shrine and rock that is the “Cheonwang Yaksayeorae.”
The newly built Daeung-jeon Hall.
One of the half dozen murals dedicated to Wonhyo-daesa that adorns the exterior walls of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
A mural of Hyegong and Wonhyo-daesa’s illustrating the tale about “my fish.” The tale states that one day, while attempting to revive two fish that had been swimming in the neighbouring lake, one of these two fish came back to life. Both claimed that they were the one to revive the fish.
The mural illustrating Wonhyo-daesa’s enlightenment.
Wonhyo-daesa teaching some of his 1,000 disciples.
Wonhyo-daesa saving the lives of monks at Taehwasa Temple in Tang China.
The main altar triad inside the Daeung-jeon Hall that includes the central image of the “Seated Stone Statue of Yaksayeorae-bul and Concealed Objects.”
A wood relief of a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) inside the main hall.
The “Yangsan Wonhyoam Hermitage Amita-bul Triad Relief.”
The Samseong-gak Hall to the rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The smoking tiger mural that adorns one of the exterior walls of the Samseong-gak Hall.
A look inside the Samseong-gak Hall with a relief of Chilseong (The Seven Stars) to the right, Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) in the middle, and a stone image of Yongwang (The Dragon King) through a window to the left.
A closer look at the wood relief of the Mountain Spirit.
A painting of Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.) housed inside the Samseong-gak Hall.
And joined by this painting of Wonhyo-daesa the founder of the hermitage and its namesake.
We're up to lesson 3 out of a total of 20 so far, and I'll continue to post 1 a week until it's finished.
This series is a free course for learning how to have real, natural Korean conversations. Each lesson covers a different common topic that you will likely experience in Korea. This lesson is a conversation talking about what to do on the weekend.
Mujinam Hermitage is located in western Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do in the southern foothills of Mt. Mansusan (575 m). Additionally, the Mujinam Hermitage is directly associated with Muryangsa Temple and located just to the south of the main temple. Like the neighbouring Muryangsa Temple, Mujinam Hermitage was first built during Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) by Beomil-guksa (810-889 A.D.). Eventually, the hermitage would be destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98) only to be rebuilt during the reign of King Injo of Joseon (r. 1623-1649). In more recent years, the hermitage has become a nunnery for Buddhist nuns.
Hermitage Layout
As you first approach the hermitage, you’ll be welcomed to the grounds by a dozen stupas. It’s just past this budowon, as well as the nuns’ dorms, that you’ll finally enter the compact courtyard at Mujinam Hermitage.
Slightly to the right, you’ll immediately notice the Daeung-jeon Hall with a modern three-story stone pagoda out in front of it. The base of the pagoda is adorned with various Buddhist iconography that includes the Four Heavenly Kings, four lions, and Bodhisattvas. The body of the pagoda is simple with its upturned roof stones, and the finial is wonderfully ornate.
As for the Daeung-jeon Hall that backs this pagoda, the exterior walls are adorned in simple Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals), as well as paintings of the Four Heavenly Kings. And near the front entry of the main hall, you’ll find a pair of large, ornamental dragons near the signboard to the shrine hall. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues under the main hall. The central image is that of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). The triad rests on the main altar under a large, golden canopy. The first painting directly to the right of the main altar is a golden Chilseong (Seven Stars) mural. It’s joined on the far right wall by an equally golden Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). Both are quite original in their compositions.
To the right rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find an outdoor shrine with a beautiful modern statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Buddha of Medicine, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). Rather interestingly, there’s a stone roof-like structure over the head of Yaksayeorae-bul with a lotus flower relief on its underside. And on either side of the statue’s head are two Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities) reliefs. As for the mandorla that surrounds the statues entire body, there are fiery reliefs etched onto it.
And to the left rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find an unpainted Sanshin/Dokseong-gak Hall. Stepping inside this shaman shrine hall, you’ll see two murals: one dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) and the other to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Both shaman deities are wearing beautiful gold clothes, as are the dongja (attendants) that stand near them. In addition to these golden paintings, there is a nice wooden statue dedicated to Sanshin out in front of the mural dedicated to the Mountain Spirit.
How To Get There
To get to Mujinam Hermitage, you’ll first need to head in the direction of Muryangsa Temple. From the Buyeo Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to head left out the exit and continue to walk towards the big street. After crossing the road, take Bus #127 from the Buyeo Market Bus Stop. Then, at the Muryang Village Bus Stop, which is 37 stops away, get off and walk towards Muryangsa Temple. However, before arriving at the larger Muryangsa Temple, hang a left for about 200 metres before arriving at the temple to get to Mujinam Hermitage.
Overall Rating: 3.5/10
While small in size, there are a few highlights to Mujinam Hermitage. One of these highlights is all the gold clothing of the various shaman deities found in all the murals at the hermitage. Also, the masterful stone statue of Yaksayore-bul, as well as the hermitage’s modern three-story pagoda, are something to have a closer look at while visiting this hermitage. And in combination with the neighbouring Muryangsa Temple, a trip to Mujinam Hermitage can make for a nice little day trip.
The budowon just outside the hermitage grounds.
The Daeung-jeon Hall and outdoor shrine dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha) at Mujinam Hermitage.
The modern three-story pagoda at the hermitage.
One of the Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life) that adorns the exterior of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The main altar inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The Chilseong (Seven Stars) mural inside the main hall.
Joined by an equally golden Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
A closer look at the statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha). Such great detail.
The Sanshin/Dokseong-gak Hall at Mujinam Hermitage.
The golden Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) mural inside the shaman shrine hall.
Joined by this equally golden mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).
And the view from the Sanshin/Dokseong-gak Hall out towards the Daeung-jeon Hall and the morning light.
~기 짝이 없다 is an advanced form that's used in a similar way as ~기 그지없다 and ~기 이를데(가) 없다. In my most recent live class I taught all three of these forms and their differences. The full live stream was around two hours, but you can watch just the lesson portion summarized into 7 minutes.
Seochukam Hermitage on the Tongdosa Temple Grounds in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do.
Hermitage History
Seochukam Hermitage is located on the Tongdosa Temple grounds in Yangsan, Gyeongsangnam-do in the southern foothills of Mt. Yeongchuksan (1,082.2 m). Seochukam Hermitage is one of nearly twenty hermitages on the Tongdosa Temple grounds; in fact, it’s just 150 metres away from neighbouring Jajangam Hermitage. The hermitage was first founded by the monk Wolha in 1996. In total, there are only a handful of buildings on the hermitage grounds.
Hermitage Layout
You first make your way up to the hermitage up a long, forested roadway, until you eventually come to the hermitage parking lot south of the walled-off grounds. To the right of the hermitage parking lot, you’ll find a plainly adorned entry gate. On either side of the entrance to the hermitage grounds are two storage areas. Passing through the beautiful gate, you’ll enter into the lush hermitage courtyard. Seochukam Hermitage has the feel of a Japanese temple instead of a Korean one. What makes me say this is that all of the buildings are purposely unadorned. The exterior walls to both the entry gate and the Daeung-jeon Hall are adorned in their natural wood finish and white along the walls.
Having entered the main hermitage courtyard, you’ll notice the administrative office to your left and the Yosachae (monks’ dorms) to your right. Between the entry gate and the Yosachae is a modern half-sized replica of Dabo-tap Pagoda from the famed Bulguksa Temple. This pagoda used to stand in front of the main hall, but it has been moved in more recent years to its present location. And out in front of this pagoda is a water fountain. Water pours forth from a stone turtle’s mouth, collects in pools of water with baby turtle statues and high-relief images of lotus flowers on it, and flows out into a lotus basin.
Seochukam Hermitage in April, 2007.
Straight ahead, on the other hand, and between the administrative office and the Yosachae, is the only shrine hall at Seochukam Hermitage. This is the Daeung-jeon Hall. Again, the exterior walls to the main hall are adorned in their natural wood finish and white walls. On either side of the entry to the Daeung-jeon Hall are two storage areas.
There is a wooden corridor out in front of the central entrance to the Daeung-jeon Hall. Stepping inside the main hall, your eyes will instantly be drawn to all the colour inside the Daeung-jeon Hall. Every inch of the interior is filled with stunning murals that include the Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals), the Four Heavenly Kings, shaman deities, an all-white Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion), and a mural dedicated to the scene from the “Vision of the Bejeweled Stupa” from the Lotus Sutra. All of these paintings are masterful in their execution. As for the main altar, it houses a triad of statues set back in an enclosed area. The triad consists of a central image dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) and Gwanseeum-bosal. The triad rests under a beautiful canopy with a manja image at its centre. On either side of the main altar are a collection of four panel paintings. These paintings consist of images dedicated to Jijang-bosal, Gwanseeum-bosal, Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power), and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). The interior to the compact main hall is stunningly filled with beautiful Buddhist artwork that’s second-to-none.
How To Get There
From Busan, you’ll first need to get to the Nopo subway stop, which is stop #134. From there, go to the intercity bus terminal. From the intercity bus terminal get a bus bound for Tongdosa Temple. The ride should last about 25 minutes. The buses leave every 20 minutes from 6:30 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. From where the bus drops you off at the Tongdosa Temple bus stop, you’ll need to walk an additional 10 minutes to the temple grounds west of the bus stop.
From Tongdosa Temple, you’ll need to continue up the main road for another 700 metres until you come to a fork in the road. Instead of heading straight, turn right and continue heading in this direction for a couple of kilometres. There is a cluster of hermitages in this area. Find the sign that reads Seochukam Hermitage – 서축암 and continue heading in this direction until you arrive at the hermitage.
Overall Rating: 4/10
Seochukam Hermitage is both beautiful and tranquil in its simplicity and size. The hermitage buildings are equally beautiful in their simplicity, as well. However, stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, this simplicity is disrupted by the overwhelming beauty that’s artistically present inside the main hall from the main altar statues to the numerous Buddhist themed murals. Seochukam Hermitage is beautiful in its contrasting elements found in both its architecture and its artwork.
The wooden entry gate to Seochukam Hermitage.
Walking through the entry gate at the hermitage.
The beautiful water fountain and replica of Dabo-tap Pagoda.
The Daeung-jeon Hall at Seochukam Hermitage.
The main altar inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural) inside the main hall.
The first painting of the Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals) entitled “The Announcement of the Imminent Birth” inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The fourth painting of the Palsang-do set entitled “Renunciation.”
And the eighth, and final, mural of the Palsang-do set entitled “Death.”
The “Vision of the Bejeweled Stupa” from the Lotus Sutra painted on one of the interior walls of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
From one of the amazing murals that adorns the entire interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall at Seochukam Hermitage.
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