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jeju, days three and four

when they said to get to mount halla early, we didn’t think they meant 9 am. so we missed a 7 hour round-trip hike up a dead volcano. but we had a nice little stroll through the woods, where people like to pile rocks.

it was a lazy day for photos.

the next day, an hour ride in the sun to udo, where there were endless lighthouses.



and kids riding horses.


and seaweed!

and sun.

and convex mirrors.

and also some other stuff.

good times. glad to be home.


 

jeju, days one and two

chuseok finally came, which meant i had to go

to jeju-do.

along with a visitor from the West.

we climbed things and explored.

jeju’s made from a bunch of dead volcanos. we tried to climb the big ‘un one day, but we got to the mountain too late.

day two, we looked for a scooter, but what we found was some waterfalls. on the way, ben found the calisthenic machines that keep the ajimas limber.



how could you not want to swim in this? we didn’t do it… but we wanted to.


just in case you forgot you were on vacation, there were coconuts with straws in them to remind you.

we finally cabbed it to the scooter shop, where a lovely dog gave me kisses while ben picked up our pink lady.


Destination: Seoul Design Fair (2010)



The classic color scheme returns - it's time for the Seoul Design Fair once again. Open until October 7th, this three-week-long festival emphasizes design and creativity at every turn. Called the Seoul Design Olympiad last year, the name changed due to some questions by the better-known holders of the Olympic name. While it's worth an afternoon to inspire the creative souls, the issue of being overwhelmed by the scope of the festival continued for the third year in a row. It's possible to see it all in a day, but comprehending it and taking in the sights and sounds is a different thing altogether.



The first exhibit, "Living Culture in Korea, China, Japan", displays a number of different designs hailing from these respective countries. The chair, part of the 'shun' series by Shi Zhenyu, seeks a harmony between man and nature by "combining the solemnity of man with the tranquility of nature in an office environment".



Some Korean displays hoping to warm you up by using a warm stripe design. By Solco Biomedical.



Don't eat from these bowls - and don't touch them either.



The second large tent on the track displays the "Seoul Brands Design Exhibition" and the "Seoul Design Assets Exhibition" - two areas, where Seoul and/or Korea are the distinctive elements here. Or so they'd like you to think.



An interesting combination of traditional and new-fangled -한양 목가구 or Hanyang Mokgagu. Take traditional "self-restrained Confucian aesthetics" and add in a fancy display (details not given) to create something entirely new. Not pictured just around the corner was a miniature version of Sungnyemun / Namdaemun, the southern gate of Joseon Dynasty Seoul.



Probably the most interesting display (if you took the time to understand it) was in the third large tent. Under the theme of Urban Design and Management, video displays showed how over 20 cities were being reborn through new policies, new buildings, or new projects.



The best use for the awkward and oversized map I've seen yet. While there was plenty to see, it was also one of the only places to sit down and rest your overworked feet.



This is the Seoul Design Fair, of course - lest any of you think the home team gave too much space to other cities, this area would prove you wrong. Each of these huge panels seemed to cram on as many oversized words as their frames would allow. A number of other panels described future plans to build the Han River Arena and this architect's wet dream:



Presenting the Grand Lighting Tower, or 광화탑 as it was described in Korean. At over 100 meters tall, this proposed building would be situated in the Gwanghwamun Plaza area of downtown Seoul, totally outclassing the Admiral Yi Sun Shin statue already there. Although compared to the Eiffel Tower (the symbol of Paris), somehow I doubt the masses of tourists would come to see this behemoth.



One highlight: a recycled plastic 'bed' that would easily be sturdy enough for the honeymooners. It has the look of being a natural product, but being plastic makes it easier to care for.



Moving into the covered ring of the Jamsil Sports Complex, we find the Seoul Design Market. It was the "World Design Market-Seoul" last year, but this year, the branding-gone-overboard mindset seems to have taken over. It doesn't seem to matter that a fair percentage of the vendors are not from Seoul, but whatever. Plenty of interesting and creative stuff is here to see - and because some of the non-Korean vendors speak English, it's a fun place to chat with fellow foreigners about Korea.



Although the picture isn't the best, the awards for best bicycle design, cycle fashion and accessories, and infrastructure were all on display. The bikes had some small prototypes, while most of the rest were ideas on boards. Some were clever enough that I'd buy one (a convertible-style 'roof' for your seat, protecting it from the rain) while I'm surprised others won an award (a bike lock that looks like ivy).



The BFF acronym notwithstanding, the Bicycle Film Festival is indeed real, featuring films about people and their bikes.

Getting outside again, we found a large area dedicated to children:



All designed by children. Not pictured in the area were the 'Braille Business Card Design Class' and an 'Upcycling Class' - using recycled materials to create something of value or use.



Back inside is a large area for colleges and universities to brag about their students' unique designs. Hongik University may be better known as an arts school and party zone, but their Woodworking and Furniture Department makes a pretty cool wooden chair.



A collection of graphic designs in poster form from Handong University. Colorful and fun.



The last major section is the Food Design Fair. We'll assume that it's fake food (using real food for a three-week festival = really bad-looking food by the end of it), but we didn't understand the idea of using plastic wrap when the display is already well-sheltered. Plenty of different food designs available for those who appreciate how the food looks more than how it tastes.

There's no right or wrong way around this facility, although the oversized / awkward map does give you a few vague options based on the amount of time you have available. For next year, something as simple as lines on the ground indicating directions would be great - follow the red line for the short path, the white line for the medium path, the blue line for the see-everything path, and so on. Alternatively, divide things into more discrete modules or departments. Things run together too easily; after two hours you're either bewildered at what you've seen or wondering what you've missed. Convenience facilities are located on either end, understandably far away to prevent damage to the displays, but require a trek to reach. While you can purchase high-markup coffee easily, a 500ml bottle of Coke was nowhere to be acquired.

If you're a fellow creative soul, you'll appreciate seeing other people's creativity at play. This event may well be as refreshing as going to an open-mic night, or as inspiring as buying a book on design. Even if you claim to not have a creative bone in your body, it's still worth attending for the cosmopolitan, 'World's Fair' feel to it. Give it the full day, or consider breaking your visit up into two parts. Your feet will thank you later.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Ease to arrive:


Foreigner-friendly:


Convenience facilities:


Worth the visit:

Directions to the Seoul Design Fair: Take line 2 of the Seoul subway system to the Sports Complex station. Take exit 6 or 7 to street level and walk straight for 300 meters. Open 10am-7pm Monday-Thursday, 10am-8pm Friday-Sunday. The event ends October 7th, 2010. Free admission; for more information, see the official website at sdf.seoul.go.kr.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog,Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.


 

On playing the foreigner card


Source: KoreanClass101.com

Whether you realize it or not, you've played the foreigner card. Anytime you've gotten away with something that a Korean couldn't. Anytime you've done something that a Korean couldn't - or wouldn't. Sometimes it's played for you - anytime a local treats you different because of your foreigner nature, the foreigner card has come into play. Not knowing the language may be one excuse, while not knowing local customs / traditions may be another.

But what exactly are we talking about here?

We're talking about differential treatment - sometimes better, sometimes worse - that foreigners get in Korea because they're foreigners. You may be given a free pass on getting out of a 회식 (hoe-sik, or after dinner party, usually with copious amounts of alcohol) that your Korean co-workers would never get. You might be offered something that a local thinks you might need - some advice, some directions, etc. At the same time, differential treatment is what enables a taxi driver to take the long way to your destination (if there are Koreans being ripped off by Korean taxi drivers, I'd love to hear!), and any number of other unfair practices.

I should take a step back here. After two years and six months in what was once a super-xenophobic country, I can count the number of truly discriminatory cases on one hand - and have a finger left over. At least one can be credited to my lack of knowledge (not knowing it was illegal for the driver to quote me a rate instead of turning on his meter), but the others? They're in the past, and they're not worth bringing up again.

There aren't too many situations where the foreigner card is truly beneficial, and the longer you've been in Korea the less you need it. If you've been in Korea for any length of time, you already know not to sit in the smaller sections of the subway (the ones meant for senior citizens, pregnant women, and so on). You already know to be deferential to older people (although where you draw the line is almost certainly different). When do you actually need the foreigner card?

The acid test

The acid test seems to be thus: Is playing the foreigner card needed for a genuine benefit, to avoid a loss or problem, or just to f*ck with a local? Not giving up my subway seat to an belligerent ajosshi (older man) when other seats are close by? Fine, or reasonable. Not moving over one empty seat to allow a couple to sit together? Probably unreasonable, unless scooting over that one seat puts me next to the aforementioned belligerent ajosshi.

Gord Sellar recently asked who would police "small percentage of elderly people who are completely aggressive jerks, and possibly mentally ill? The young people can't, and their elderly peers either can’t or don’t dare.” In a word? Foreigners! Under the totem pole of Confucianist relationships, our place is either the lowest of the low (as an outsider with few or no relationships to the local population), or without a place in the system at all. I would argue we have nothing to lose by standing our ground. We have no face to lose, and unless we're with a Korean or know the language, you can safely ignore whatever may come out of their mouths.

The aggressive ones can be dealt with (whether male or female) in many of the same ways they attempt to garner a seat or a better position: a push-aside, a shove, or perhaps even an elbow should the need arise. Shaming them into submission is unlikely to work - how many drunken ajosshis have you seen pissing on the street in full view of anyone walking by?

In closing, let me say that I do (as a general rule) respect older people - when they're being / acting respectable. That drunken ajosshi trying to score a free English class gets little respect, but the lady needing help with her groceries gets a helping hand.

I can't say the foreigner card has come in really handy for me - has it for you?

Readers, when have you played the foreigner card?

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.


Seoul Teaser, Eloquence Intro

 

Norebang with Leah and Peter, somewhere around 6 a.m...

Back from 48 hours in Seoul–my second trip to the city, and what a city it is.  The energy!  The crowds!  The art!  The hookah bar in Hongdae!  I saw silhouettes of flamingo wings at the Leesum Museum and danced to the beats of Laidback Luke at a club called Answer.  The weather was hot and the subway transfers long.  On Saturday night my partner in crime Leah and I rendezvoused with new pals Peter, Geoff, Devang, and a couple other after-dark prowlers, who coerced us into a norebang session that STARTED at 4 a.m.  (Trust me, I tried to protest.  Then I gave in and sang.) 

More Seoul deets and pics coming asap

But first: some of you may recall my mention of a Seoul-based magazine called Eloquence I started writing for earlier this summer.  And some of you have asked where you can read the articles.  So, in the three upcoming posts, each story will be featured in full.  I hope you enjoy…and to all of you in Korea, Happy Chuseok!


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