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Red Links, 4-16-11

All-East Asia, No Liberties Post

  • Censorship in South Korea:

    Unusually in a democracy, a “real-name” system is now in effect for those posting on popular online forums: any participant signing up to websites must use their national identity number. So would-be Minervas are now easily traced. The spread of false information carries a maximum punishment of five years’ imprisonment and a hefty fine.

    What is more, since 2008 a supposedly independent Korea Communications Standards Commission has had the remit to promote a “sound and friendly communications environment”. Critics argue that the commission serves as the government’s de facto internet censorship body. It is supposed merely to “advise” portals to remove articles believed to contain falsehoods, obscenity or statements in favour of North Korea that infringe the National Security Act. In fact it may issue administrative orders backed up by law, forcing content to be deleted. Unsurprisingly, its “advice” tends to be followed.

    Chang Ha-joon of Cambridge University, whose free-trade critique, “Bad Samaritans”, is on a list of books the defence ministry has banned troops from reading, argues that such efforts are counterproductive. “This is not the 1980s, when you could just cut a few telephone lines,” he says. Blocking free speech in one place would simply “start a bushfire” somewhere else.

    Much of the desire to control the flow of information and ideas can be traced back to longstanding fears over the spread of North Korean propaganda, which remains illegal. The administration of President Lee Myung-bak has additional suspicions about the power of IT thanks to massive, internet-driven protests against imports of American beef that brought Seoul to a standstill in 2008. Yet South Korea’s mild paranoia about controlling information harms its reputation as a liberal democracy and undermines its potential as a creative powerhouse

  • China’s Crackdown:

    In the short term at least, these troubling developments undermine the comforting idea that economic openness necessarily leads to the political sort. All the more reason, then, for the West to hold China to account. America and the European Union are right strongly to condemn Mr Ai’s detention, though it would have been better had they taken a stand sooner. Speaking out might just help constrain the regime’s behaviour. It will certainly give succour to those in China working bravely to create a better future.

  • When Fund-Raising Is a Crime:

    In the odd way these things work in China, word has trickled out that on April 7th an appeal court in Zhejiang, a famously entrepreneurial coastal province, conducted a five-hour hearing on a death sentence handed down to Wu Ying, a prominent 29-year-old businesswoman, on fraud charges. Before her arrest Ms Wu had seemed to personify the miraculous business success that could be achieved by people from even the most humble background in modern China.

    The revelation that she faces execution is the latest in a string of dramatic events surrounding her case, including the arrest of several prominent bankers and officials from information she is said to have given, and her own reported suicide attempt. Details are murky because much of the case, including the appeal, has taken place behind closed doors, with restrictions on direct press coverage. That, however, has not stopped Chinese newspapers and internet opiners from discussing avidly a case that has clearly caught the public interest.

  • BRIC Wall:

    The authors are careful to say that there is no iron law of slowdowns. Even so, their analysis is unlikely to cheer the leadership in Beijing. China’s torrid growth puts it on course to hit the $16,740 GDP-per-head threshold by 2015, well ahead of the likes of Brazil and India. Given the Chinese economy’s long list of risk factors—including an older population, low levels of consumption and a substantially undervalued currency—the authors suggest that the odds of a slowdown are over 70%.

    It is hazardous to extend any analysis to a country as unique as China. The authors acknowledge that rapid development could shift inland, where millions of workers have yet to move into manufacturing, while the coastal cities nurture an ability to innovate. The IMF forecasts real GDP growth rates above 9% through to 2016; a slowdown to 7-8% does not sound that scary. But past experience indicates that slowdowns are frequently accompanied by crises. In East Asia in the late 1990s it became clear that investments which made sense at growth rates of 7%, say, did not at expansion rates of 5%. Political systems may prove similarly vulnerable: it has been many years since China has to deal with an annual growth rate below 7%. Structural reforms can help to cushion the effects of a slowdown. It would be wise for China to pursue such reforms during fat years rather than the leaner ones that will, eventually, come.

  • Princelings and the Goon State:

    China is entering a period of heightened political uncertainty as it prepares for changes in many top positions in the Communist Party, government and army, beginning late next year. This is the first transfer of power after a decade of rapid social change. Within the state, new interest groups have emerged. These are now struggling to set the agenda for China’s new rulers.

    Particularly conspicuous are the “princelings”. The term refers to the offspring of China’s revolutionary founders and other high-ranking officials. Vice-President Xi Jinping, who looks set to take over as party chief next year and president in 2013, is one of them. Little is known about his policy preferences. Some princelings have been big beneficiaries of China’s economic reforms, using their political connections and Western education to build lucrative business careers. Other princelings are critical of China’s Dickensian capitalism and call for a return to socialist rectitude. Some straddle both camps. Prominent princelings in business include President Hu Jintao’s son, Hu Haifeng, who headed a big provider of airport scanners; and Wen Yunsong, a financier who is the son of Wen Jiabao, the prime minister.

    Cheng Li of the Brookings Institution in Washington, DC, argues that a shared need to protect their interests binds these princelings together, especially at a time of growing public resentment against nepotism. Since a Politburo reshuffle in 2007, princelings have occupied seven out of 25 seats, up from three in 2002.

  • Japan’s Post-Tsunami Politics:

    The quake and tsunami that devastated north-eastern Japan, and the nuclear disaster that followed, have disrupted the economy, with power shortages and stricken factories. Ordinary Japanese have cut back on inessential spending, in a mood of sacrificial restraint. Much has changed. Yet one constant remains: petty political bickering.

    As the government has attempted to deal with the mess, the opposition Liberal Democratic Party (LDP) has picked on minor gaffes to justify exaggerated displays of outrage. Mr Kan’s offer to the LDP’s leader, Sadakazu Tanigaki, to form a “grand coalition” with his Democratic Party of Japan (DPJ) was rebuffed. The opposition thinks Mr Kan is flailing and his prime ministership, which was in trouble well before the earthquake, is in danger.

    In opinion polls, Mr Kan’s personal support has increased slightly since then, but around two-thirds of voters are disappointed with the government’s handling of the crisis, particularly at the Fukushima nuclear plant. On April 12th the nuclear accident there was upgraded to level seven, the highest rating on an international scale of severity. That places it on a par with the Chernobyl disaster 25 years ago this month (though the radiation released at Fukushima is only a tenth of Chernobyl’s, and nobody has died from it yet).

    On April 10th the DPJ’s troubles took their toll in regional and local elections. The party lost all three of its races for prefectural governorships to the LDP. It failed to gain a plurality in any of 41 prefectural and municipal assemblies that were up for grabs. The drubbing has emboldened LDP politicians to resist more collaboration. As ever, they aim to oust Mr Kan and precipitate an early general election.

  • Window-Shopping with China’s Central Bank:

    China’s central bank has a lot of money but not a lot of imagination. It keeps a big chunk of its reserves in boring American government securities. That means it can count on getting its dollars back. But it frets about how much those dollars will be worth should America succumb to inflation or depreciation.

    So what else could China do with the money? Instead of the dollar, China might fancy the euro. China could buy all of the outstanding sovereign debt of Spain, Ireland, Portugal and Greece, solving the euro area’s debt crisis in a trice. And it would still have almost half of its reserves left over.

    It might, alternatively, choose to abandon debt altogether and buy equity. China could gobble up Apple, Microsoft, IBM and Google for less than $1 trillion. It could also follow the lead of those sheikhs and oligarchs who like to buy English football clubs. According to Forbes magazine, the 50 most valuable sports franchises around the world were worth only $50.4 billion last year, less than 2% of China’s reserves.

    Another favoured sink for the world’s riches is property. Perhaps China should buy some exclusive Manhattan addresses. Hell, why not buy all of Manhattan? The island’s taxable real estate is worth only $287 billion, according to the New York City government. The properties of Washington, DC, are valued at a piffling $232 billion. China is accustomed to being Washington’s banker. Why not become its landlord instead?

    China could also allay its fears about energy, food and military security. Three trillion dollars would buy about 88% of this year’s global oil supply. It would take only $1.87 trillion (at 2009 prices) to buy all of the farmland (and farm buildings) in the continental United States. And China could theoretically buy America’s entire Department of Defence, which has assets worth only $1.9 trillion, according to its 2010 balance-sheet. Much of that figure is land, buildings and investments; the guns, tanks and other military gear are valued at only $413.7 billion.

  • Go East, Young Moneyman:

    The percentage of business-school graduates choosing finance as a career has dipped only slightly since the crisis, no doubt largely because pay in the industry has held up remarkably (some would say obscenely) well. But within the industry career priorities are changing, at least when it comes to location. Talent and transactions are migrating from London and New York to faster-growing markets, particularly in Asia. Though some headhunters predict indigestion in Hong Kong, Singapore and Shanghai this year after an overzealous bout of hiring, most are bullish on the region’s long-term prospects.

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Filed under: Business/Economy, East Asia, Korea, Link Dumps, Politics, Subscriptions Tagged: BRICs, censorship, china. japan, naoto kan, South Korea, the economist, wu ying

Busan e-FM Week 18: Shopping, Vitamins and Other Imports

About 'Open Mike in Busan'

Background

I think I mentioned LG and Samsung before on the show. In fact, it’s kind of hard to get through talking about life here without mentioning Korea’s ubiquitous [yes] brands. But this was the week I was told not to mention them – not even the foreign ones - even though this week’s subject was shopping - 20 minutes before I went on air.

One of the K-satire sites seems to have re-branded LG aka ‘Lucky Goldstar’ as ‘Fortunate Quasar’, and I was sorely tempted to go through the entire show calling them that, but 20 minutes is not enough time to think up alternate names for all the other chaebol, so the whole thing felt rather forced in the end for me. Well that’s live radio for you – next time I hope to be better prepared.

It’s fair enough that Busan e-FM doesn’t want to mention brands, but I have no such restriction here, so here it is, Week 18 – Uncut.

Introduction

So this week is about another very important aspect of life in Korea – shopping. I used to think we had quite a consumer-oriented culture in England, but it’s nothing compared to Korea.

The differences

There are a lot of differences between the UK and Korea when it comes to shopping. In the UK our shops are mainly in the city centres rather than everywhere you look, and we also have big ‘out of town’ retail centres – whereas here you don’t really have ‘out of town’ stores because there is no ‘out of town’ - everything is the town in a big city like Busan [seriously, it’s like Logan’s Run here]. And we have a lot of big brands in England, but here it often feels like a constant choice between LG and Samsung [or in the radio version – between a company beginning with ‘L’ and a company beginning with ‘S’ - see why it fell flat?]

I expected there to be a bigger variety of brands, and I actually thought there were at first, but then I found out that brands like Xcanvas, PAVV, Zippel and Hauzen belong to LG and Samsung. I suppose that’s the nature of the chaebol system, which of course we don’t have in England [unless you count the multi-branded tentacles of the government] – where almost all our products are made overseas anyway.

I found chaebol brands quite odd. For example, Daelim seem to make toilets and motorbikes. In England, the last car I owned was a Ford. But how would I have felt if my toilet was made by Ford as well? But I guess people here feel that the brand is more important than the object it’s attached to.

Purchases and consumer protection

In fact, the first thing I bought in Korea was a Korean keyboard for my laptop computer – it was made by a major Korean chaebol – but the quality was really poor. I admit, I realised later it was really cheap [I had no idea about the relative value of things here at first], but it made me think these companies will sometimes put their names on anything.

My experience with subsequent purchases has been mixed. My wife and I buy a lot of things from the Internet, but Internet shopping here is quite different. We have eBay in the UK, but most people choose to order from established online retailers like Amazon. Here, Gmarket and Auction – which are both owned by eBay – seem to be one of the main ways of buying online. So it feels riskier but from very small companies and individuals.

I also think we have much stricter consumer protection laws in the UK than the ones which exist in Korea. For example, we bought an aquarium online that was supposed to be 35cm deep, but it was shorter when we got it. The seller said it was because they had the wrong picture on their page, but they didn’t seem particularly sorry about it. Online prices are good though, so maybe you just have to take the risk.

Expensive item risk

But this means that it’s difficult to justify buying certain things online. When we bought a TV, the prices were much cheaper on the Internet, but we felt we couldn’t risk buying such an expensive item that way, so we bought it from Tesco Homeplus [declaration – I’m a shareholder] in the end. It’s the same with the DSLR I bought – I got it from Hi-Mart because it seemed too risky online. That’s different to the UK where you have big online companies that you can trust. And of course, it’s also difficult for me to shop online, because I don’t understand Korean.

Online and offline shopping

There are good things about shopping online. I love how deliveries are so fast compared to England, and you get these text messages telling you about when things have been dispatched – it’s really efficient. It’s just a pity I can’t browse through the Korean Internet to shop for things. That said, I’m not one of those foreigners who seems to think that Korean shopping sites should be available in English as well. I think if you want to shop in English, go home – this is Korea. If I can’t use Korean Internet sites, that’s my problem, not Korean people’s. I have to work on my Korean language skills.

So I find myself shopping offline a lot. Buying things from local shops here is also quite different from the experience in England – the opening hours are much longer here for one thing, and there’s an assumption that everything will be delivered, whereas in England you normally have to work that out yourself. Plus, if something needs installing, that will be done for you here as part of the service, even if it’s just a small aquarium from a local store.

The customer service is almost too good sometimes. For example, I bought a printer from a store, and because we lived around the corner and didn’t have a car, one of the staff insisted on carrying it to our apartment – which was a bit embarrassing [still, thanks Hi-Mart]. But on the other hand I find all the special cards which exist rather confusing - my wife has a special card holder just for all the extra points cards she carries.

The price is right

And prices are confusing, because I often can’t really work out what the prices in stores are supposed to be. This is partly because I have to convert them into my own currency to work them out, and partly because the ticket prices and the real prices are sometimes two entirely different things.

For example, when we were shopping for a TV, it became quite common for us to walk into a store, and immediately be offered 30% off the price of a TV we were looking at – and that’s before trying to haggle. In England, haggling isn’t as common, and you might get 5 or 10% off, but here we can haggle a price down 40% sometimes.

Ajumma rental servicet

Actually, my mother-in-law’s haggling skills are legendary – so we always take her with us when buying something expensive. She saves us a lot of money. Once we got a couch so cheap through haggling that when she told the store owner we’d come back later to buy bookcases, he actually said “Please don’t!” - and from the pained look on his face I think he really meant it too. [Shortly afterwards  he moved his business away from our district shortly afterwards and in my mind it was just to avoid her].

What else you can’t buy here - drugs

There are things you can’t buy in Korea that I wish I could. I used to take drugs [no, not that kind] to control my Meniere’s Disease in England, but when I came to Korea I discovered that they aren’t available here, and there isn’t any alternative. That’s a huge problem for me, and I was really worried when my pills ran out.

I started taking various vitamins and herbal supplements instead - because some people believe they help – but the cost can be very high here. You can get them a bit cheaper online, but I don’t really want to buy vitamins from individuals on auction websites. And some items just aren’t available, so I have to import them from the U.S.

Free trade and other myths

Importing things into Korea from overseas really isn’t easy. With vitamins for example, you can only import a maximum of six items – not more than two of one item within that six – and the customs limit is around $130, including the postage, which is usually $40. So in other words, the postage is around a third of the whole cost. And yet... often buying things this way is still cheaper than the prices in Korea, which makes me think that Korean prices are a rip-off. That’s really unfortunate because people have a right to their health, and somehow – because of the way the market is here – Korean people are potentially suffering.

So there’s no easy solution to my vitamin problem. In fact – my wife and I even looked at setting up our own company just to import vitamins for our own use, but the rules are horrendous. It’s a shame, because there’s a famous cosmetic product in England for example, that I think Koreans would love if they could get it here [it’s Boots’ – ‘No. 7’ brand]. Sometimes locally-made products are not always the best choices, and they shouldn’t be the only choices.

But I’m hopeful that the free trade agreements Korea’s signed recently with the U.S. and E.U. might change things.

Links
Busan e-FM
Inside Out Busan

Air date: 2011-02-23 @ ~19:30

Busanmike.blogspot.com
 
Twitter:  @BusanMike
YouTube: /BusanMikeVideo
Flickr:  /busanmike
 

Me and the Mountain

There’s a 3rd grade homeroom teacher at my school who considers himself to be my older Korean brother. I like to call him  Mr. Boastful. You might remember him. He’s the one who got me shit faced on soju one night following a staff dinner. He’s the type of person you always enjoy being around but who in some ways, scares the shit out of you because you never know what type of hijinks he’s gonna pull. Following my recent staff noraebang experience, he tried to physically hold me hostage until I agreed to let him come downtown with me to meet a friend for beers. I pulled a spin move to shake free before running to catch a cab. He’s really a nice guy, just a tad pushy.

Now Mr. Boastful is quite the outdoors man and a couple weekends back he invites to go rock climbing with his climbing team on Guemjeong mountain in Busan. Earlier in the year I had expressed some interest in going climbing while he was showing me cell phone pictures of a recent expedition.

I should mention that of the two times in my life when I’ve gone rock climbing, neither of them was on a mountain (let alone real rock) and neither was high enough to brag about. I contemplate coming up  up with an excuse for why I can’t go (afraid of heights, bad knees, expected Saturday morning hangover), but instead agree to go.  He takes my shoe size and tells me that he will prepare every thing I’ll need for the climb–harness, shoes, helmet, climbing pack, etc. At this point I realize he’s more excited about the climb than I am.

He picks me up Saturday morning and we head off for the mountain. With us are two members of his climbing team (a couple college aged girls fully decked out in climbing gear).  The hike to the climb site is short and when we arrive at the site one of the girls gives me a crash course on how to prepare and put on a climbing harness. She barely speaks a word of English so she carefully performs each task on her harness in front of me and I attempt to do the same on mine. I  pay close attention because I’m already nervous and the last thing I want is be in the middle of the climb and have something go wrong because I didn’t attach or tie something properly. My angst is heightened when one of the other team members tells me “Don’t worry. With good harness you don’t never die on mountain!”

Up until that point, the notion if dying hadn’t even crossed my mind. I was completely naive to the possibility that I may not make it back from the mountain alive. I give her a thumbs up accompanied my a nervous smile and proceed with readying my gear. The words “you don’t never die” would become my motto for the rest of the day.

Before starting the climb I reach into my pack and grab the pair of climbing shoes that have been prepared for me. I can instantly tell they will be too small (even for climbing shoes, which are generally smaller than a normal pair of shoes) but I try to squeeze my feet into them anyway just to say I did. After several attempts I decide to simply do the climb in my Reebok running shoes.

Everyone is tied off and we start the climb with one of the girls going first followed by Mr. Boastful then myself. I watch them make their way up the first stage taking mental notes on their route and technique all while thinking “there’s no fucking way in hell that I can do this.” When it’s my turn to start I try to do the same route but quickly find myself  slipping and struggling to find a good hold. Luckily Mr. Boastful takes pity on me and, seeing me about to throw in the towel, begins to hoist me up until I can find a proper hold to continue under my own strength. Despite what you might think, this in no way impedes on my feeling of accomplishment after I complete the first part of the climb.

Just before we start the second stage, I notice two other men have joined us on the climb ( other members of Boastful’s team). One is in full climbing gear and looks like he knows what he’s doing, and the other is a legitimate ajossi with no gear whatsoever; just a small backpack and a pair of lime green Nikes.  This second gentleman ended up doing the entire climb as a free climb. No ropes, no harness, no helmet, all balls. During one stage of the climb I start before him and arrive at the top to find him relaxing on a rock smoking a cigarette. A feat that has earned him the title of Mr. Bad-Ass. I can be positive, but i’m pretty sure he lit his cigarette with his bare hands.

In general Mr. boastful is helpful during the climb; coaching me up rough sections, showing me how to position my body, telling me I “don’t never die” to make me feel at ease.  However there are certain parts of the climb, usually when I’m struggling the most, when he tells me to stop where I’m at and look up for a photo. Here I am clinging for dear life to the face of this fucking mountain, sweating like a slave in my too-small-for-dreadlocks helmet, and I look up to see the man who’s supposed to holding the rope keeping me from falling to my death, grinning and pointing a camera down at me. Several times this happens. Several times I almost panic but keep my cool and muster up a smile. Damn Koreans and their paparazzi tendencies.

We make it to the peak where we plan to have lunch before repelling down, but before I can break out my kimbap and nacho cheese chips, I’m told that I need to hop a gap about five feet wide to get to the flab slab of rock where we will eat. Below the gap is drop that is easily 100-120 ft. down. I look over at Mr. Boastful and Mr. Bad-Ass who are already on the other side waiting and laughing and begin to think they’re actually anticipating that I won’t clear the gap. Again, Mr. Boastful takes out a camera to document the feat.

I clear it just fine, but the same cannot be said for the girl behind me who spends an entire 45 minutes trying to work up the courage to take the leap. When she finally does make it over, she completely breaks down in tears and can barely eat her lunch. And I thought I was the rookie?

When its time to repel down, Mr. Boastful goes first and I follow after leaning how to attach the rope to my harness. He gives me one last “you don’t never die” and snaps another photo before my feet are planted firmly on the ground.

On the ride home I am asked several times if I had a good time and if I would ever do it again. I say yes and Mr. Boastful says that it makes his heart “vely happy.”

“But,” he adds. “Next time you bring soju!” I nod my head and look out the window while mouthing the words “fuck no.”

Ciao,

Kimchi Dreadlocks


Spring in Olympic Park


Last Sunday I declared it a "buddy day" and decided to meet my friend from my old neighborhood to check out what has bloomed in Olympic Park. The above pictures were taken on my ride to the park in JH's car.

Before my friend and I ventured into the park we stopped for a bite to eat at the Oriental Spoon near Jamsil station. I enjoyed some pad Thai noodles.


Some people probably went to Yeoido park and enjoyed the cherry blossom festival there. However, I felt it would have been too crowded for my liking and so chose the very large Olympic park instead. There weren't a plethora of cherry blossom trees like there probably are at the Han River, but we had a good time strolling about and seeing what we could find.



I caught these kids running in action.
We turned a corner and before our eyes was a sky of petals.








The weather was warm and with a slight cool breeze, which is a contrast compared to this week which is cloudy and cool. There were many families and couples having picnics.

Moving on we crossed a lake where we saw a heron or ibis take flight.





The Olympic Park is quite a huge space and offers many different paths to walk on. We could have taken an easy route but decided to go up a hill, instead. I think it was a good decision since beyond the hill were not so many people and it seemed like there was this hidden meadow.





Seeing couples made me miss JH.



I liked this bike nestled next to these flowers.


Later we took a rest on a bench next to a tree where I took the typical "up-a-tree" shot.
Now we took a curving path and headed back towards the beginning of our walk. On the way there were these kids who seemed very engaged in a conversation.


Magnolias, which reminded my friend of the movie Magnolia.



Before heading back to the subway station we checked in at the De Chocolate Cafe for some cool drinks. It was great to get out with a friend and do something in the warm spring sun.
Oddly enough the subway station had a huge advertisement going for the next winter Olympics.
Even though this week looks like a mix of sunshine and rain, I was really pleased to feel the warm weather again. Also, I would highly recommend getting out to this park and others as I am sure most of them feature lovely spring flowers.

Cave Bar, “Dragon Dream” in Beomil-dong - Busan Awesome

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Passageway in “Dragon Dream,” more commonly known as the cave bar, is the coolest place to eat and drink in Busan.  I’ve always been partial to underground bars with stone walls and confusing passages.  Having lived in Prague, I thought that I’d probably experienced just about every kind of underground bar there was.  But I don’t think I ever drank in an actual cave there.  Literally, the walls drip water, and you are inside the mountain.

Beyond the unique setting, the cave bar has a whole lot more to offer.  The food is amazing.  I’ve been in Korea for a while now, and I can safely say they have some of the best kimchi I’ve ever tasted.  We also ordered the kimchi pajeon, and it was incredible.  It had more of a deep-dish pizza texture than the standard street pajeon.  We got it without seafood, which I prefer.  Sometimes too much squid can really ruin it.    They were so good that we ordered two more rounds of them after we finished the first.

The other specialty is dongdongju, which is kind of rice wine very similar to makgeolli.  Normally I avoid the rice wines because one sip almost guarantees a killer hangover the next day, but I really enjoyed the dongdongju.  It was served in one big bowl, then ladled into smaller drinking bowls from which to sip.  If the rice wine doesn’t do it for you, there’s also standard priced bottles of Hite and some special kinds of soju that should get the job done.

One of the best things about “Dragon Dream” is how far you feel from the often insular expat bar circuit.  Despite being seated near another group of foreigners, it felt a far cry from playing darts and eating hamburgers in KSU somewhere, which was a nice change of pace.

Definitely take a Saturday afternoon, and venture out to find this place.  It’s a short taxi ride to Seomyeon afterwards, if you plan to continue hanging out.  Although it’s very tough to find, our detailed directions should make it easier.  It’s very much worth the effort.

 

Directions are tough, so follow these pics (scroll down for a map):

1. Beomil Subway station, exit 7. When you exit, you’ll see this (below) Turn LEFT.
Directions to the cave bar in Beomil 1

2. Continue down that street with the side of the Hyundai Department Store on your left. You’ll see this:
Directions to the Cave Bar in Beomil

3. Keep going. Up ahead, you’ll see a creepy, rusty stairway that goes to a bridge over railroad tracks. Cross that bridge:
Directions to the Cave Bar in Beomil

4. After the bridge, turn LEFT. You’ll see a green and white awning on your left and pay phones on your right (below). Keep going.
Directions to the Cave Bar in Beomil

5. Look across the street. There will be a crosswalk going to a Paris Baguette (below). Cross it! Turn LEFT after you’ve crossed the street.
Directions to the Cave Bar in Beomil

6. You’ll see a bus stop sign for Borim cinema. Take your first RIGHT after you see this:
Directions to the Cave Bar in Beomil

7. Then take your first LEFT. The bar/restaurant is on your RIGHT and it looks like this:
The entrance to the Cave Bar

So let’s review: Beomil exit 7. Turn LEFT. Cross the bridge. Turn LEFT. Cross the street at Paris Baguette. Turn LEFT. Take your first RIGHT and immediately take another LEFT. Cave bar is on your right. Here’s a map for you map-oriented people:

on the streets.

In this big city, loneliness is somehow inevitable, as you walk amongst a sea of black hair and incessant clicking heels. Sometimes though, as I walk past each person, I feel I get a half a second glimpse into their world as our realities are intertwined, if even for just that fleeting moment. The strong scent of aftershave follows the gentleman dressed like Ron Burgundy and lingers for a few more steps. I have a feeling he just came from that love motel but it is anyone's guess. As my ipod provides the soundtrack, in my head are a million different stories about that man and how he came to be at that very place, at that very moment, intersecting paths with this foreigner.

My favorite part of the day is my walk home from school, about 25 minutes which takes me through an huge apartment complex area and a bustling market street with fish, vegetable, fruit and fermented food vendors. It is a walk that fills my senses with sights, smells and bizarre scenes I can hardly believe I am used to now.



As I begin my journey home I walk out the school yard to a chorus of "Ellie Teacha! Hi! Bye!" following me as I wave to the kids still running around the playground. The houses around my school are numerous and close together, with adjummas sitting on the stoops gossiping. I pass my favorite ATM (it continuously plays Third Eye Blind's "Semi-Charmed Life" and I think it is HILARIOUS! Why? Because, Korea) on my way up the hill to the massive apartment buildings all of which are at least 30 stories high. It is an astounding feeling to look up at them all and feel so small and insignificant. Over another slight hill I come to a street that is the best 5 minutes of the walk. Cars are a rare occurrence on this street and on the typical day there are 50+ grand mothers and fathers, young mothers, children and babies walking, rollerblading, playing, (and sledding during the winter) talking and laughing after a long day at school. Most days my new friend Mr. Lee (An elderly gentleman whom introduced himself to me and told me his whole life story in perfect English, he used to travel and work with Korean Air) and I have a little chat about life and his health. As simple as this is, it is something I cherish and look forward to on my walk, I don't get to talk to many older people in such a relaxed manner, and he has a sweet soul. This part of my day is really a side of the culture you can't read about in a book or see at a tourist spot. This street is the reason I moved to Korea.




I walk past countless more homes stacking up to the sky into the commercial area where these people go to fill their homes with fresh fruit and vegetables, socks with cartoon characters and other various oddities that are sold there which change daily.

Just as I leave the towering apartments behind I walk past a little shop selling fruit where several 아줌마 gather around a small TV, waiting for some customers, and as I stroll past they look up with excitement in their eyes, waving with both hands while I bow politely and also wave. One day when I cut my hand (on a can of dog food I was feeding to the stray puppies near my school, I have a problem) I wandered down the hill with blood running down my hand and into their shop hoping for something to stop the bleeding. They cleaned it and fixed me up with a band-aide and sent me on my way. The next day I brought them a candy bar and made instant new friends:)

Continuing on, the market street is busy with afternoon shoppers and getting through the market can be a struggle, weaving in and out of old ladies carting around their goods, salesmen yelling deals on meat and the in season fruit, and frail old women sitting with piles of roots and unknown greens surrounding them. Everyday I walk down this street everyday and pick up fresh mushrooms and peppers (for a great price!) to make a yummy soup, one of my favorite parts about living in a city, super fresh food! Its almost natural now to meet Eric and pick up some groceries together from the best vendor at the end of the street.






A few more back alley shortcuts and I am home to my tiny little slice of Seoul I can call my own. Even in this city of millions the people you meet, the places you go and the things you see, they change you. You are never the same person as the day before when everything is always changing. These small instances that seemed insignificant at home now have seem to grown to epic proportions, every interaction and face, becoming part of my psyche, part of who I am.

Ellie Teacher

onedayillflyaway.com

A visit to Wonheungsa Temple

Wednesday 13th April, 2011

I've been keeping busy at the gym and riding my bike around, so I figured I'd go find the Wonheungsa Temple, which is pretty close to our hotel, according to the map. Again, it was a perfect Spring day and I took off early.

I rode through the back streets, behind the Fatima Hospital and around the base of the hills. I also found a chicken hut with a turkey and a couple of peacocks in it. The road leading to the Temple then took me through some residential houses, churches and schools. I eventually reached some wooden steps; and there were plenty of them! I assumed thats right up the top there would be a lookout point so I prepared myself to start going up....

The chicken hut behind the Fatima Hospital

The chicken hut behind the Fatima Hospital

a peacock!

a peacock!

and another

and another

It was great once I got to the top. The view was beautiful. That's one thing I love about Korea. Because there many mountains, they have some really good observation decks and gives you a great view of the city. From the deck, there was a dirt track through the forest again. As the map shows that the Temple is within the forest I thought it'd be a good idea to follow it and see where it lead me.

Half way up the steps..

Half way up the steps..

My little bike

My little bike

Yep, I walked up all those stairs...

Yep, I walked up all those stairs...


The city view...

The city view...

View 2....

View 2....


View 3....

View 3....

View 4....

View 4....

The walk took about 20 minutes and took my almost back to the base of the mountain! I laugh about it and just say it was good exercise. Once I got the the Temple I was alittle disappointed. You see, It was closed. I don't know why, maybe it was under renovations, but I couldn't get through and they had guard dogs tied up at the front, so I didn't think it'd be a good idea to go any further.
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After going for that short adventure I cycled over to The City7 and bought some lunch. I also went to do abit of clothes shopping for our holiday to Spain in 2 weeks time. I don't have that many summer clothing and now that the season has started getting warmer, I have managed to find t-shirts and shorts, which I'll definately be needing in Spain. I'm so excited!!!!!

After that, I headed back home to get some domestic things done and waited around for Daniel to come home, so we could go to the gym.

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Hiking in Changwon

Tuesday 12th April, 2011

I decided to finally go see the hiking trails behind our hotel and also near The City7. I had heard about how nice the hiking trails are around here, but because I'm not much of a walker, I didn't really think it would be my thing. I did however want to go see the cemeteries, which are located at the base of the hills. In Korea, when their loved ones pass away, they bury them in the hills. There's quite a few cemetery's all over the city. In fact, you can see them on any hill. Most burials have tombstones, but there are others that are un-named and are just a big mound with grass growing over it.

I got my backpack ready- water bottle, camera (I'd have a chance to take some great one handed shots withs my new Samsung) and a light snack. I crossed the road and started walking up the pathway. I was walking through vegetable patches and I could hear the little birds chirping. It was a beautiful hot, sunny day that I even got to wear a T-shirt!!! You've got to understand how exciting I get over this. The temperature here in Korea has not gone over 10 in the last few months and there's something about feeling the sun on your skin again. You feel alive! and re-energised.
The entrance to the hiking trail

The entrance to the hiking trail

The starting point

The starting point

The vegetable patch

The vegetable patch

The dirt pathway...

The dirt pathway...


I wonder what lives down here!

I wonder what lives down here!

The walk started off nicely. It was like going from the city scenery to a rural, farm community.There were little huts, but noone was there. I couldn't see anyone working either. Maybe it was their day off. The pathway went in a circular form, but to get up to the tombstones, which I could see from a distance, you had to get off the track and walk on abit of a dirt track. So I did. I jumped over the small tree trunk that was in the way and hoped that I wouldn't be disturbing any snakes. I don't even know if they have snakes in Korea! By now, the sounds of the city were starting to fade and nature started taking over. I could hear unfamiliar sounds, which, to be honest, made me a little nervy. Here I was in the middle of a forest, getting freaked out by the noises of birds and things walking on the dry leaves... I think I watch way to many horror movies. As I walked along, I thought about my escape route. Hit them with the camera and RUN!!!! hahaha ,but none of that happened.

On the way to the top

On the way to the top

Un-named graves

Un-named graves

Tombstone

Tombstone


The walk up was very steep but after around 5 minutes I reached the first set of tombstones. They were beautiful and the view from up the top was truly amazing. I didn't want to move as it was so beautiful. I continued on and I was now walking in an upward direction amongst the trees. I could see little sparrow birds flying between the branches and could see things jumping and running on the ground, again between the trees, so it was hard to make out what they were exactly. Maybe they were birds or squirrels. Or Cat leopards. I've heard they have them here. Apparently they are the size, if not, maybe a little bigger than a cat, with leopard prints.
Notice the detail..

Notice the detail..

A different tombstone

A different tombstone


More tombstones

More tombstones

....

....


More tombstones on the hills

More tombstones on the hills

.....

.....


......

......


... view

... view


Amazing view

Amazing view


Forest

Forest


More forest..

More forest..

City view from up the top

City view from up the top

Eventually I made it to the top. What relief. Now the path went either left or right. I decided to go right and see where it took me. It was very quiet and lonely up there. It had just hit midday and I was getting hungry, so I figured I would walk a little longer until I could find a clearing where I'd be able to sit down and have lunch. Around 15 minutes later I found just that. It was a very picturesque view of the city. I could see The Newcore Outlet store, the Fatima Hospital, The Pullman Hotel and City7. I can just imagine how awesome this sight would be at night, with all the city lights shining brightly. At the clearing, there was also a few exercise machines. There was also a little hut with hula hoops hanging from it and a mirror with a guide on stretches. As I took it all in and settled down for my snack I started seeing more and more people walking. Mainly office workers and groups of women. The hiking up in the mountains must be something they do on their lunch breaks. I thought what a lovely idea.

Exercise equipment

Exercise equipment

Having a go on the exercise equipment

Having a go on the exercise equipment

After lunch I continued on and the pathway started heading down, back onto the road. I went ahead as there were more tombstones and I wanted to have a look at them. It's such a nice walk up there in the mountains. You can be one with nature, yet you are so close to the city. I think Korea is quite lucky to have this so close to them. Back home, I have the Blue Mountains National Park, but I've never gone bush walking there and I probably won't, so I better make the most of hiking while I'm here!

As I started to head back, I found some, what seem to be tennis courts or handball courts. I was surprised to see them. Who would have thought to put sport courts on a hill?! Bizarre....
The tennis/ handball court

The tennis/ handball court

As I walked, I could hear little steps behind me, so every so often I'd stop and quickly turn around to see if someone or something was following me. But I never saw anything. Maybe it was all in my head and I was just making myself scared. But I couldn't shake off the feeling I was being followed. By this stage I could see the road, so I took a moment to just look around my surroundings. As I looked on the ground and up the tree branches, I saw the cutest little face staring right back at me. It was a little Korean Squirrel that had been stalking me. What an absolute cutey. As quietly as I could, I took my camera and focused on him. I managed to take a few photos, but he was so quick, as soon as he saw the camera he started hiding and climbing up the trees. He was a real acrobat and jumped from one branch to the other, until I could no longer see him.
My little Squirrel friend

My little Squirrel friend

And again! x

And again! x

It was such an awesome way to finish my hike. I'll be going back there to see if I can get any more photos of my little friend.
Me!

Me!

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How to buy for english book in Seoul

I love reading books, especially English Book. It's one of my hobby and I would spend hours, in a book store. Longer, if it's free reading.

Currently, I am searching for this book:-



It's a best selling english translated novel from Korean author.


In Seoul, there are several English bookstore.
Interestingly, they even sell second hand book.
And also, they even have website which you can purchase via online.

I've been only few months here, in Korea. So, do forgive me for my insufficient list.

1. Itaewon - What the book
(You can see the shop from my Itaewon entry)



2. Beomgye - English Bug
(Opposite Korea Post Terminal and Anyang Central Park)

3. All around Seoul - Kyobo Book
(They have small english section, not bad)

4. Seoul - Seoul Selection


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