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Feburary 2010 events

Do you have an event worth promoting? Let me know - chrisinsouthkorea AT gmail DOT com - or post a comment. Limit one event per comment please!

Just because the Killers concert was canceled doesn't mean the month is suddenly dull. There's plenty else to see and do - take a look for yourself:

February 1st-March 28th: Head to the Hangaram Art Museum for masterpieces from the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Pieces from Claude Monet, Vincent Van Gogh, Pierre August Renoir, Paul Cezanne, Henri Matisse, Piet Mondrian, Paul Gauguin, Edgar Degas, Pablo Picasso and more. Open 11am - 7pm, 13,000 won admission, 15 minute walk from Nambu Bus Terminal (line 3, exit 5).

February 5-6 Spring Welcoming Exorcism of Tamna (Jeju-si, Jeju-do). From Matt Kelly's excellent blog:

Tamna is an ancient kingdom of Jeju Island and “ipchun” means the first day of spring. The upcoming farming season inspired this “gut” or exorcism ritual to pray for a bountiful harvest. This authentic reenactment of many traditional rituals is held for two days. Events include a procession of citizens dressed in traditional clothing, lively music, a photo exhibition and hands-on cooking, mask-making and traditional games programs. The highlight is the exorcism ritual, performed according to Jeju’s unique local traditions. For more info, visit the official tourist website. )

February 6 –TRADITIONAL KOREAN BREWERY and SANJONG LAKE
From the Royal Asiatic Society: We will visit a brewery that specializes in the production of traditional Korean liquors, including Makgeolli, Maesil (plum wine) and bokbunja (liqueur from black raspberries). Following lunch, we will head to enchanting Sanjong Lake to enjoy skating and hiking. Cost includes brewery tour and sampling fees. (W 69,000 for RAS members) www.raskb.com.

February 6-7: The original diva comes to Seoul - er, Whitney Houston and her army of designers, backup singers, dancers, and the like. Gymnastics Stadium, Olympic Park.

February 6-28: GREASE comes back to town - Ewha Womans University, Samsung Hall, 개관작품. Interpark has the tickets at 1544-1555, but don't expect them to be cheap.

February 7: Whether you call it the Super Bowl, the Big Game, or That Big American Pastime in February, here it is. Watching it in Korea requires remembering the time difference - it'll be Monday morning / afternoon here in the Hermit Kingdom. At least three places will be showing it on a time-delayed basis - see Seoul Eats for more information.

February 12-28: Time for the Vancouver Olympics - while there's no telling how much of it will be on Korean TV, you can bet you'll see a lot of Korean action.

February 14: More than just Valentine's Day - it's seolnal to Koreans - to non-Koreans it's the Lunar New Year. For all of us it'll be a three-day weekend (you'll get the 15th off), which you'll need to enjoy the double holiday.

February 14-15 - Lunar New Year trip to Seoraksan National Park with the Royal Asiatic Society. From their information: This is Korea's premier national park, containing some of the most superb natural scenery to be found on the peninsula. This is definitely a "must" during your stay in Korea and once you have experienced it, you will want to return time and time again. (W50,000 Deposit for RAS members and non-members) www.raskb.com.

February 19 and 20 - The Kimchibilly Grand Carnival - the rockabilly sound is alive and well, whether you enjoy it for the swing dancing or the high-energy sound. Friday night's show at DGBD (the 19th) is a warm-up show featuring the Rock Tigers, the Tennessee Cats from Japan, and the Soul of Liberty, also from Japan. Saturday will be the main event, featuring the above bands plus six other bands. The main event starts at 5:30pm - expect it to be a long night. For more information, check out the Rock Tigers website.

February 20 – Another RAS trip: TRADITIONAL KOREAN FURNITURE MUSEUM and JEONGHEOP TEMPLE. Join us for a pleasant tour in Songbuk-gu, just 12 minutes from City Hall. First, we will have a guided tour of the Korean Furniture Museum, which houses traditional wood furniture in 10 different hanoks (Korean traditional houses). After lunch, we will visit the Jeongheop-sa (Temple). We will wind up the tour with tea in the home of the former curator of the Korean National Museum, Choi Sun-u. 45,000 won for RAS members; cost includes admission fees plus transportation. Michael Spavor will be your tour guide. www.raskb.com.

February 23: Chicago returns to Seoul - er, the classic band, not the city. Olympic Park, fencing area.

February 24, Backstreet Boys, Melon AX Hall (Gwangnaru Station Line 5, Exit 2) - and here all this time I thought they had grown up to become men... This will be their third concert in the area - but be prepared to pay up! Tickets are 110,000 won. Visit ticket.interpark.com (1544-1555) or call the organizer at (02) 3443-9969.

February 26-28 Jeju Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival (Saebyeol Oreum, Jeju Island). For more information, let's turn again to Matt Kelly:

On the first full moon of the lunar New Year, locals have continued a tradition of burning fields to kill harmful bugs and encourage new grass for their cattle. To pray for a healthy and prosperous new year, this tradition is reenacted by setting an entire oreum (parasitic volcano) ablaze in a hot and smoky fire festival that’s not to be missed. On the Full Moon Day, which falls on the 15th day of the first lunar month of the year, the Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival is held in order to pray for a healthy year and good fortune. Visitors to the festival can experience the traditional lifestyle and practices of Korea’s farmers. Long ago Jeju farmers would set fire to their fields, so that the harmful bugs would be chased away, and their cows could then eat the grass. In this festival this practice is revived, and visitors get to experience setting pheasants free, traditional wedding ceremonies, and much more. Information: visit the official website (four languages available)

February 27th: 8pm-5am The Wild Women's Festival - see their Facebook page for more. Expect plenty of music, dancing, and other entertainment while sipping your favorite beverage. Proceeds from the Festival are given to the KWAU (Korea Women's Association United), which advocates for women's issues in Korea, including the Korean Women’s Hotline, the Dashi Hamkke Anti-Trafficking Organization and agencies for disabled women. Mong Hwan in Sinchon (Sinchon Station, Exit 2).

February 27: An RAS tour to Jeonju City with Dr. Dan Adams. The official description:

Jeonju is the capital of Jeollabuk-do (Jeolla Province) and has long been famous for fine paper products and for dolsotbap (mixed rice and vegetables served in a hot stone bowl). More importantly, Jeonju is the home of the Jeonju Yi family, from which the long line of Joseon Dynasty kings sprang. We will visit Gyeonggijeong, where the portrait of Yi Seong-gye, the founder and the first king of the Joseon Dynasty, is kept; Jeonju Hyanggyo, a Confucian school; a very beautiful old Catholic church; and, an ancient city gate. We will also visit Hanok Maeul, a village of traditional Korean-style buildings, where you will have the opportunity to make traditional paper. (W48,000 for RAS members) www.raskb.com.

Chris in South Korea does not receive any money or special favors for promoting the events above.


Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

 

Poll results for January 2010

What are your Korean resolutions for 2010?
Save more money

34 (41%)
Get a better job
13 (16%)
Get a Master's degree
14 (17%)
Get an English teaching certification
12 (14%)
Get out of Korea
17 (20%)
Travel around Korea more
31 (38%)
Make more Korean friends
19 (23%)
Learn to eat / like spicy food
6 (7%)

Total votes cast: 81 (people could choose multiple answers)
Results not scientifically based, people chosen by self-selection and pure awesomeness.


Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

Funk and Sketch

The funk part: Last night I went to the Vinyl Underground, a pretty sweet club in Busan. It's definitely a play on the Velvet Underground since their sign has a giant banana on it. The theme was Funked up and Soul out which was great, it was kind of amazing for a few hundred people to be dancing to something that wasn't kpop, hiphop or electronica. I've never actually been to anything like it but the best thing about being in my 20s (or one of them anyways) is not caring about making a fool of myself, especially on the dance floor. I called it an 'early' night and left around 2:30/3. It would have been cheaper to stay out longer and split a cab home but sometimes you just want to go to bed.

The sketch part: my landlord coming round to tell me about the water bill. I am a female resident who lives alone; I have zero desire to interact with my male landlord who gives me a funny vibe. Apparently, everyone in the building has to pay 10,000 won (around 10 bucks) for the water utility regardless of how much or little we use. Apparently, I am 2 months behind. Why am I two months behind? Because there is no paper bill given and I'm just supposed to miraculously know to pay this. How am I to pay this? By stopping by HIS APARTMENT ON THE THIRD FLOOR TO GIVE THE MONEY. Sketch? I think so. I also really, really don't like doing anything without accompanying paperwork when it comes to housing and my job. It just screams unprofessional. I refused to pay it right then which was kind of funny because I realized after he left that he could see 20,000 won, the exact amount I owed sitting on my bedside table through the open crack of the door. Whatever, that was my dinner money. I am going to go talk to my co-teacher about it tomorrow morning before I pay. So sketch. I'd rather just make a bank transfer at the ATM every month, give me an official bill. I think I'll have my school speak to him because I feel uncomfortable in the extreme. It's probably nothing. Koreans do things differently but I have gotten through life pretty well by going with my gut.

And because today's blog post was utterly uninspiring, some konglish for your viewing pleasure:I'm not sure if this qualifies as Konglish per se, since the English isn't exactly wrong, it's just strange. I saw it on a t-shirt in a shop window near Pusan National University (PNU for the natives) in Busan.

목포 Mokpo

12 Sep 2009, Hoping for a glimpse of the West Sea (er, Yellow Sea), I head out to Mokpo on the west coast of Korea. Okay, no Sea, but a nice river delta.

You know Korea is your home when... (part 6)

The series has been resurrected! See part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4, or part 5 for even more. Without further ado...

You know Korea is your home when...
  • Your gadgets / technology make a Korean feel inadequate.
  • You're better at cutting things with scissors than a knife.
  • When you finish your kimchi and ask for more.
  • You know the location of every trash can at the subway station.
  • You know a two-transfer trip across town will take exactly 47 minutes.
  • The event you went to last weekend was one your Korean friend had never heard of.
  • You have zero moral guilt about hopping the turnstile to change directions.
  • You can tune out any subway seller.
  • You hit your legs or hips to loosen them up.
  • You naturally wake up right before your subway station.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

Nine Months

My wife and I have been trying for a baby for a year, and were beginning to face up to the possibility that we needed to get ourselves checked to find out if there was a problem. I was facing up to the question of what life would be like if that problem was with me - it would have been bad enough in my own country, but to live in Korea and be the one responsible for a childless marriage was a burden I didn't know how to bear; my paranoia focused on all those deeply held suspicions that a certain section of society here wants to believe about foreigners. My state of mind not helped by the revelation that our newly-wed friend had become pregnant on their first attempt. If the worst was confirmed, my wife wanted to take the hit for me - recognising how intolerable life might be for me otherwise in this family oriented and foreigner suspicious culture - but to my mind there comes a point where the truth is what it is, and we disagreed, even though I didn't relish the prospect of facing up to Korean Father - or the rest of Korean society - in the worst case.

My wife began to feel unwell a month ago, and the family dog suddenly became very protective of her, biting me twice quite badly. Something was amiss. Was it too much to hope for? Psychic Aunt had proclaimed some time ago that my wife would become pregnant in the Chinese Year of the Ox - she had two months left and we were threatening to picket outside of her home proclaiming her as a bad fortune teller. She came around to the apartment one evening, touched my wife's hand accidentally, and her demeanour changed immediately - "you're pregnant" she said.

One of the problems of being in a foreign country is knowing whether over-the-counter pregnancy tests can be relied upon or not. The first was negative but later turned positive in the bin, and in the coming days the next two went positive straight away. We went to a nearby maternity hospital, where ultrasound scans confirmed a possible pregnancy, but one with complications. So while there was an enormous sense of relief that we weren't necessarily destined to remain childless, there was little happiness to be had in the situation either. While I sat in the waiting room, a woman emerged from her examination distraught, and cried while she fumbled with her phone to make a call. The horror of it all made me feel ill.

All we could do was wait and count off the days on the calendar to the next scheduled scan, but there were complications and we had to rush to the hospital unscheduled. We got through it. Our friends had already named their nascent baby - it being too early to know the sex, the gender-neutral temporary name 'bada' (meaning ocean) was chosen. It's a common practice here to assign names like this but we avoided it.

I was beginning to feel used to sitting around in the maternity hospital, surrounded by rather fatigued looking expectant mothers, young children and the occasional father, but nobody seemed to hold my potentially polluting the gene pool against me. The small children would sometimes walk unsteadily towards me to stare though, one even pointing and screaming. Perhaps they'll grow up to be a Chosun Ilbo journalist. Generally though, I felt isolated, and was glad when we reached a more normal, rather than emergency appointment, where I could go into the doctor's office with my wife. She was still ushered into a small side room though, leaving me left staring at the weighty Korean and English anatomical tomes in the bookcase against the far wall. It was at this point I noticed the screen on the wall to my left was not showing some generic image but was streaming my wife's latest ultrasound from within the room. But it wasn't so much what I saw as what I heard which left me rooted to the spot - a tiny heart beating rapidly. For all I wanted to be cautious and unemotional about what we were going through, hearing that heartbeat made it suddenly seem very real, and I don't think anything prepared me for it.

My wife had been unhappy because she'd seen other women at her stage of pregnancy getting their 'pregnancy diaries' and 'pregnancy certification' from the hospital, the latter of which makes things official with the government, and allows her to obtain a special bank card which provides discounts on medical bills. We were suspicious that mindful of the potential complications, the hospital had tactfully avoided issuing any such documentation to my wife. This week though, she finally got official recognition, and we gradually began telling people.

Korean Father returned from Namhae with a huge arrangement of flowers which now sits in our room, and later he returned from a hospital appointment with a large book - ironically translated from a British original - entitled 'Your Pregnancy Bible'. Curiously, it's full of pictures of a naked British woman showing Korean women what to expect their bodies to look like. My own father had not reacted well to the news that he was going to become a grandfather many years ago, but Korean Father was embracing the idea enthusiastically. I think he was secretly relieved, as we all are, but there is a long road ahead, and the nature of my life in Korea seems destined to change with it.

Busanmike.blogspot.com
 
Twitter:  @BusanMike
YouTube: /BusanMikeVideo
Flickr:  /busanmike
 

Yangsan's First Expat Bar, Faux Sushi, and a Street Market

Last night The Female Kiwi (who agrees that she needs a better pseudonym...I'm working on it), The Hooligan and I met up at Yangsan's first expat bar, The Hemingway. Perhaps a cliched name but considering the universal facts of expat life it does seem appropriate. I went a bit overboard with my camera. I was taking pictures in color accent mode which does cool things in full light but made most of these photos turn out mostly black and white with awesome blue accents from the lighting.
Also, since I failed to ask anyone if they minded having their photo on my blog the only evidence you get to see of the night out is this lovely picture of feet. Not even my feet but The Female Kiwi and The Celestially Inclined Brit. ...I have not had enough coffee to be coming up with pseudonyms me thinks. I hope the Celestially Inclined Brit doesn't read this blog or is amused by my need for more caffeine. I blame the paint fumes for lowering my brain cell count!!!! I don't have enough to lose!What's this you ask? Obviously not the bar but on a street post down the way. Gang signs Korean style--hang up some dried fish. Oh yeah.

This afternoon I had a craving for sushi. I had been watching Lost in Translation (and giggling like mad because apparently the problems Westerners have in Japan aren't all that different from the issues here) and got an insatiable craving. I remembered seeing a sign for fusion sushi downtown so off I went. It was the worst sushi ever. It does not deserve to be called sushi. What is a California roll without avocado I ask?! Ironically, the fish was really fresh...it was just that it was on top of an inside out mini kimbap roll (ham, radish, fish paste) and then smothered in MUSTARD and MAYONNAISE. Disgusting. Absolutely disgusting. Luckily I was so hungry that I managed to force down enough food so they wouldn't think I was being insulting by not eating it. They might have gotten a hint though from the faces I was making. Oh well.

Down the street from me they set up a market a few days a week. Fish, veggies, fruit, kim (seaweed) and the works. I got mini dried anchovies and a giant box of strawberries. The fish guy told me I was very beautiful (in English) and I replied in Korean that his fish were very yummy. He smiled and gave me an extra handful for free. Everyone seemed please to see me out and about, doing something so Korean like shopping at the local market. Getting treated well always makes my day and made up for the fact that an old lady half sat on me on the bus. At least she was a Korean lady...an American might have caused serious damage.

Hong Ho in Korea

When Heather and I went on our honeymoon last October, we stayed at my old friend's house for the latter half. Staying at a friend's house for a honeymoon does sound a little unusual, but it really depends on how well you know that friend.

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Hong and I met in the 90's during a disagreement over a chess game. It's funny to think back to that time and realise it was the beginning of a long friendship. He came over to Korea for his year-end holiday and spent most of the time in Busan and Japan with our other good friend, Daniel. But he managed to pop up to Seoul for a weekend and I had the arduous task of figuring out how best to spend two nights in the concrete metropolis.

IMG_1500
POSCO is a major Korean steelmaker and one of the classic business success stories in the country. During the festive season, they light up the streets around their headquarters in Samseong-dong. I think it's similar to something that I saw on a postcard, sometime, somewhere.

Probably Paris.

IMG_1498
Heather thinks Hong is quiet but altogether a nice guy. I must say, he is pretty quiet around new people. After the addition of wine, he becomes noticeably more talkative. However, excessive wine tends to negate the effect.

It's all about optimum dosage.

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Behind the POSCO centre is a Smokey Saloon hamburger restaurant. Although seemingly ignored by expat burger enthusiasts in Seoul, we find the burgers here to be quite good. Not brilliant, but edible and reasonably priced.

And they have real gherkins.

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I ordered a burger called the Vampire Hunter, which had two pieces of bacon in an X configuration, with garlic and chilli sauce. I give it a 6.5/10, mainly for thematic creativity.

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Hong had the Ambulance II, which is probably the best thing on the menu. It has all sorts of things, including two eggs and a hash brown inside. According to Zen Kimchi, there are better burgers in Seoul, but I lack the required motivation to track them down.

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The snow has been fading in Seoul, which is a good thing. On campus, the snow tends to melt during the day and freeze at night, leading to slippery encounters. In the photo above, Heather is wearing the scarf that her mother knitted for her.

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Hong, Daniel and I once made a clan in an online MMORPG called Lineage 2. Our group was called Confessions, and we spent many hours leveling up and generally causing havoc in cyberspace. Excessive online gaming with friends can be a lot of fun, and I disagree with the notion that it's anti-social. But I agree that it's not very productive or useful.
Lineage 2 was made by NCsoft, a Korean based developer. Hong was interested in seeing the headquarters, so we went back to Samseong-dong to have a look. Unfortunately it was closed on the Sunday, but we did get to peek through the windows at the official NCsoft cafe'.

IMG_1510
Back in Australia, we used to drink a lot at bars and clubs near Hindley Street. My best friend Wikipedia just told me that Hindley Street has a McDonald's named as The World's Dirtiest McDonald's.

Interesting, and not entirely inaccurate. I guess they're not talking about the one on the corner of West Terrace.

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Hong seemed to enjoy his short stay in Seoul, and then went back to Busan. I told Hong that if he lived in Korea, he would probably be very popular with the girls. That's because he has a broad Australian accent, unlike mine which has been corrupted by North American influences. And also because he has a nice personality, of course.
Unfortunately I'm not sure when I'll be able to catch up with Hong or any of our friend's back in Australia next.

Hopefully not too long.

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