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Taejongdae

Taejongdae is another beautiful sight in Busan. It's on the southernmost tip of Yeongdo, or Yeong Island. Some westerners say "Yeongdo Island." This is incorrect because "do" means "island." You don't want to say "Yeong Island Island." That would just be goofy goofy.

The place is named after King Taejong who used to frequent the island. He ruled during the Silla kingdom. I'm guessing he would've been a fan of Green Arrow and Robin Hood since he spent time practicing archery while on the island.

There's an amusement park nearby where you can amuse yourself. The "John Wayne" restaurant is nearby too. It's a really good Korean barbecue restaurant that we take our Navy Reserves to sometimes. They'll even drive a bus out and pick up your group. The view from the restaurant is really nice during the day. At night, you're just staring at a bunch of lights.

Taejongdae is known for its fresh air, evergreen trees and beautiful seaside cliffs. There's a small train/tram thing that takes visitors to the different spots such as the lighthouse. I suggest foregoing the train and enjoy a brisk walk around the area. Locals like to eat fresh raw seafood on the rocky shore. I plan to do the live octopus thing, maybe even at Taejongdae. Pray that I don't choke on a stray tentacle.

This is a very popular spot for both locals and tourists. The red and blue sculpture is one of the most recognizable sights in Busan.

The unofficial name for this place is "Suicide Cliff" or "Suicide Rock." There are more fences and barriers in place now to help dissuade people from jumping. There is a history of couples throwing themselves from these cliffs.

I think they have the exact same sign at the Grand Canyon.

The Ceej

Korean graffiti. I think it says "Nobody, nobody but you." Korean joke.

"Pull my finger." That never gets old.

Carol was freaking out when either of the boys gained any kind of speed while on the cliffs. It is a long way down.

You knew it was coming - the pose! Jake's almost got it.

Last but not least, here's CJ showing off his karate skills while on the cliffs. If you're in Korea, you've gotta check out Taejongdae.

Sports SKorea NCAA and GOLF

SPORTS SPORTS SPORTS NCAA BASKETBALL KJ CHOI and TIGER

Living in SKorea from 1996 till 2009, denied me the opportunity to watch professional sports on a regular basis.

As a result, I lost interest in professional sports, since as the years went by, all my favorite players were either traded or retired. I didn’t know any players on my favorite teams anymore. Plus, because I couldn't watch games with any regularity, I could not follow standings. I just lost interest.

I have friends back in the ROK who follow the NBA, NHL and NFL on the interweb, but it's not the same thing.

I've been back in LA for four months now and I’ve watched a lot of Laker Basketball. I’ve gone to a few Clipper games. AND…

For the first time in my life I watched the NCAA tournament, dubbed March Madness – the University basketball tournament leading up to the Final Four. This year, there were many ‘Cinderella Stories’, which thanks to Billy Murray’s character in Caddyshack, is now a perennial favorite colloquial for ‘A team from nowhere going all the way!’

This year, the team to watch was Butler University from Indiana, who not only made it to the Final four, but also, the Final Four game was played only 7 miles from their University.

And unlike most college sport coaches, or just about all basketball or football coaches, for that matter, who tend to be older, loud psychotic hotheads on the verge of heart attacks, Butler’s squad leader was a young bright eyed guy who looked very much like a college student. He’d dance and cheer along with his teammates, and he looked like their peer! Butler had a great team, no superstars, and a deep bench. Every player scored in the final game against Duke.

In the final game, Butler lost to Duke by only two points. Duke’s defense – they were by far the better team, some players destined for the NBA – held Butler score less for 10 minutes. Duke’s coach was a 30 year veteran; that is, 30 years as head coach of Duke’s basketball team! While Butler’s coach was barely 30 years old. At the buzzer, Butler’s guard got off a shot, way beyond the 3 point line, just inside half court. The shot soared over the key and hit the rim before bouncing away and the game ended. Duke won by a mere two points. Had the shot landed, and it was close, Butler would have won.

That’s about as exciting a finish as any sports fan could hope to get, and the Butler team did not drive the 7 miles home, feeling as though they were losers. Duke was by far the better team. Butler, by many estimates should not have even been there. There were no losers that day, only Duke got the trophy.

College basketball has become a breeding ground for the next NBA superstar. Young ghetto kids are recruited out of high school, play one year for a Uni and then go pro. During that year, that college with the hottest up and comer tends to win the final four. Sometimes, at a college like Butler, with players who do not plan to go pro, but plan to go on and have careers – sometimes, the same players play together on the same team for consecutive years, and they have a team that can win games. And it’s pretty exciting.

These days also, many high school kids go directly to the NBA. Kobe Bryant, Lebron James, Kevin Garnett – not counting Shaq, those are the three most dominant players in the NBA today. Shaq, of course, is not what he used to be. Still, those other big three – Kobe, Lebron, KG – they never went to University. They went straight from high school to the NBA. Shaq, however, took Louisiana State the Final Four before joining the NBA and getting Rookie of the Year, like the others. Whatever that means.

Also, for the first time in my life, this year, I’ve watched a whole golf tournament with enthusiasm.

Golf? Who would watch golf? My brother that’s who. I’ve never watched golf before, and I’ll probably never watch it again, but it sure was fun watching golf this weekend. I never realized all the intricacies of the game. I’d never watched golf before in my life, and I’ve never in my life played golf.

It wasn’t just because it was ‘the return of the ‘Return of Tiger Woods’ which is a big deal in the minds of many. I find the whole matter disgraceful. Not what Tiger did, that is forgivable, and it’s none of my business. The way the American press and the American people have handled Tiger’s family matters is truly pathetic. The only other American who’s had to go before the entire world and apologize for marital indiscretion is Bill Clinton. And he was President! Who is Tiger Woods? Some golfer? Some profession athlete? Do American parents really believe that athletes are role models, and if so, so what? Why don’t American parents spend more time talking to their children and teaching their children how to behave, than criticizing people they don’t even know?

In any event, Augusta, Georgia was the site of the Masters’ Tournament in Golf this weekend, starting April 8^th, lasting 4 days till April 11^th. Like I said, I’d never watched golf before, but watching Tiger and Mickelson and Westwood swing it out was very exciting.

For me, it was not so much eventful that Tiger finished 4^th, as much as Tiger finished TIED with K.J. Choi, from Wando, SKorea. K.J. Choi was one of three ethnic Koreans in the running. Choi is what we call a Korean-Korean, while the other two were Kyopo, or Korean-American.

Not only did both Tiger and Choi finish at 11 under par at the close of the tourney, but they ended each of the four days of the tourney with the SAME SCORE! Consequently, the two were paired up each of the four days. I’m sure Choi and Tiger got to know each other well, or maybe they were too busy competing to talk.

In addition to Kyung Joo CHOI, pronounced Chwe by Koreans, but Choy like bok choy by American/British announcers, there was one other Korean in the top five. Anthony Kim is actually a Korean-American, born in LA, but he’s already earned 1.7 million so far this year, and he finished 3^rd in the Masters at 12 under par, ahead of both Choi and Tiger, who finished tied for 4^th place.

It is interesting that 2 of the top 5 golfers in the PGA Master’s tournament in 2010 were ethnic Koreans. I wonder if the SKorean media are eating this shit up, the way you didn’t stop hearing about Hines E. Ward after Steelers won the Superbowl in 2006.

Channel 18 here on the cable station has some SKorean dramas and commercials. I watch them sometimes. As much as I’m happy I don’t live in SKorea anymore, I sure do miss aspects of SKorea. Like all the sexy women on TV. Like Se-ri Park.

LA April 12, 2010

The Same Same Questions

I've been in Korea for five and half years now. That's right. I'm pushing six years on this overcrowded little peninsula, though it seems more like two. At this point I've become quite comfortable with the place. I have a grip on the language, I know all the crazy food, and I think I have a good understanding of a culture that is, at times, difficult for Westerners to wrap their heads around.

Despite this, I still get the same asinine questions from perfectly bright Korean people who know that I'm not fresh off the boat. It really amazes me.

For example, I was teaching an adult class last week and we were talking about Korean food, as we often do (I'm a big fan). They were quizzing me a bit on my knowledge of Korean cuisine, and I was describing my favorite dishes, such as nakji bokkum (small octopus friend in chili paste), goding-eo jorim (mackeral steamed in chili paste), and dwaeju guk bap (pork rice soup). After about ten minutes it became quite clear to them that not only do I appreciate Korean food, but that I actually know a great deal about it. Just then, one of the smartest students in the class - a dentist who speaks great English - looked at me in that earnest Korean way and asked:

"But... Do you know how to use chopsticks?"

I almost slapped her.

A similiar thing happened in another adult class last year. I often drink green tea while teaching. They have complementary bags of it in the office of the adult class building, which I like to take advantage of. So one day I walked into the classroom, sat down, and took a sip of my green tea.

"Uhng!!???!!" One of my students uttered this Korean sound of shock and disbelief. It's gutteral and really sounds like: "What the fuck am I seeing?"

"What?" I enquired.

"You... you... You can drink the green tea?"

"Sure," I said, taking another sip.

"But, but... but... I thought the foreigners could not drink the green tea."

"What do you mean?" I saw her forehead bunching up and her eyes working overtime, as if she was trying to solve an impossible calculus question.

I continued, "Many foreigners drink green tea."

"Really? It is not too bitter? I thought all the foreigners drink the coffee."

She looked at me with utter confusion, as if her synapses were sorting out something beyond her realm of comprehension, something alien. For a moment I thought I saw smoke coming out of her ears.

Why?

Six years. It's almost been six years and I still get:

"Have you ever tried kimchi?"

"Can you eat the spicy food? The Korean food is too spicy for most foreigners."

"Do you know that Korea has four distinct seasons."

"Do you know pajeon? It's Korean pizza."

"Wow! You can READ KOREAN???????????????"

Man oh man. I just don't get it.

Neither do they.

Rock Tigers - published in the Groove Magazine (April 2010)

Author's note: A version of this article was published in April 2010's Groove Magazine. Photos in the printed copy may or may not be the same as those below.

It's not everyday you see a slap bass in the hands of a Korean. Or see a Korean that might be confused for Elvis in the right light. Few other bands can entertain both a mosh pit and swing dancing on the same floor - at the same time. Throw out your old rules - these are rockabilly rules.

What exactly is rockabilly, you ask? At its simplest, it's a blend of rock and hillbilly with blues, bluegrass, and country. A rockabilly band typically features a slap (or upright) guitar, drums, and at least one other guitar (electric, bass, or acoustic), but may include other instruments as well. Popular artists include Elvis Presley and Buddy Holly, while the genre influenced artists from the Beatles to the Stray Cats (the precursor to the Brian Setzer Orchestra). It's an established genre, albeit one like punk, barbershop or blues in its less-than-mainstream popularity.

Since 2001, the Rock Tigers have been the self-proclaimed 'pioneers of Korean rockabilly'. After releasing a first album in 2003, gigging across Asia, and releasing a second album in 2007, they've more recently finished a tour of Korea with performances in Gyeongju, Busan, Daegu, and Bucheon to name a few. Their monthly rockabilly show at DGBD has shared the stage with several other Korean and Japanese bands, most notably including the Tennessee Cats, the Soul of Liberty, Stay Gold, and Sunday Losers.

So what makes the Rock Tigers worth seeing? They're fun to watch. They're full of energy. They start one song right after finishing another song. They don't waste time fiddling with their instruments or set lists. At a couple of their concerts I've seen, Velvet Geena is watching the opening performers and interacting with the crowd - how often do you see that happening?

Although each member of the quintet has an opportunity for solos, the vocals (and occasional acoustic guitar playing) of Velvet Geena has the biggest chance to shine. Roy capably handles the slap / upright bass while keeping his hair in line; Tiger plays a mean electric guitar and assists Roy in the backup vocals department; Eddie Tarantular on electric guitar and Jack 'the Knife' on drums complete the band.

Their third and newest CD, 'Rock'n'Roll License', was produced by Cavare Records earlier this year. While you probably won't find it in every music store or competing with K-pop ubiquity on the radio, the 13 professionally-produced songs comprise an excellent mix of high energy, rock, roll, and of course rockabilly. Like most K-pop, there's enough English sprinkled throughout the concert to keep the foreigners from getting bored. Their live performances stick to the songs they know well, so you won't hear many covers. That doesn't mean the unpredictable never happens - it's still a live show, and it's still Korea.

For more information about the Rock Tigers, check out their official website at http://rocktigers.com/ (Korean and English available) or on Myspace at http://www.myspace.com/therocktigers.

© Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.

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Children's Church Video

Carol and I help run the the Children's Church at our church here in Busan. We go to the English service of Sooyoungro Church - Antioch International Ministries, or AIM. Here's the video I recently put together on the Children's Church. We're making a bunch of significant changes to how the children's program will be run. If you're interested in volunteering, we sure can use your help. Don't worry about your experience level or Bible knowledge. We'll help you out. Enjoy the video.

Busan, Jung-dong, Dalmaji (Haeundae) - Vesta Spa & Fitness

Vesta Spa & Fitness is currently under construction. It is scheduled to be completed on June 1, 2010. I believe they are closed for business during this time; I'd recommend calling ahead if you plan on visiting this month.

This large, well-located spa has a long reputation among foreigners and Koreans alike in Busan. Since I've heard so many good things about the place, I had high expectations. Luckily, I had the treat of visiting with someone who had been there many times before, including once long ago. She was able to offer some well-needed insight on my experience.

As soon as I arrived, from the back of the building it turned out, I noticed the unassuming entrance with a boardwalk around to the front. That's where I first saw the incredible view from their excellent location. Inside, it was clear how long they've been at their excellent location. The lockers are worn, and the keys and outfits show it too. Once in the water, you'll notice even the shower water is a bit salty (not sure what that's about, though my friend said it wasn't always like that) and the tubs could be filtered better. I was there on a Thursday afternoon and they were cleaning one of the main baths~ a tad disappointing.

Despite this, the view from the sauna was enough to make me forget the downsides. Just outside on the veranda there's a nice hot tub with some sunshine, surrounding privacy fence, and foliage. It faces seaside, so bring your shades: it gets bright!

In the jjimjilbang you can find most of the traditional rooms like yellow-soil, fire-hot (bulgama), and pretty jewelry room. There's also a small ice room, sports massage, nail art, aroma therapy, and a DVD resting room. Again, the view from here makes up for a lot.

Outside of the jjimjilbang you can find some small co-ed swimming pools (you can rent a suit for 2,000 won!) and the Sky Lounge, perfect for relaxing in the sun or enjoying some sea air with your sweetie. Since I visited during wintertime I didn't get to enjoy it. (Look for updates soon.^^)

I had a nice time here but I'd say it doesn't exactly live up to it's reputation any more. According to my friend, when it was a much nicer newer place it was the best in town. After years of heavy tourist traffic Vesta has started to show it's age, but don't cross it off your list yet - it still offers one of the best views of the seaside in Haeundae and is overall a lovely place to relax.

부산 해운대구 중동 1509-6
Busan, Haeundae-gu, Jung-dong 1509-6
051-743-5705
Open 24 Hours

RATES
Sauna : Adults 5,000 Children 3,000
Sauna & Jjimjilbang : Adults 8,000 Children 5,000

Wikimapia of Vesta Spa & Jjimjilbang

Mean Dog

Carol and I have gotten to know the Chairman and Director of the Sung Ae Won Orphanage and their family over the last year and a half. They are great people with incredibly big hearts. We've also gotten to know their dog a little bit. Unfortunately, the dog and I are still not very tight. Check out this video:

Although this little guy tries to take a chunk out of my hide during visits, it hasn't dissuaded me from getting another dog at our next duty station. The entire family is really looking forward to that. This mean little dog - well, he's just protecting his turf. I'll get him to warm up to me one day. Maybe I'll do like Jack Nicholson and walk around with bacon in my pocket.

Open Thread #11 (Updated)

(Source)

Let yourself shine…

Update: Alas, my wifi connection has been playing up since the weekend, so I certainly won’t be!

Please bear with me for the next couple of days while I get it fixed.

Update 2: All solved, albeit too late for this week’s Korean Gender Reader sorry. Turns out that my wife and I had been using our neighbor’s wifi signal for the past year!

Filed under: Open Threads

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I played with guns

Salon has an article about two parents living in Texas and trying to keep their child from playing too often with guns.

Here in Texas, guns are an integral part of life. Many children have parents who hunt. People living out on ranches need a shotgun leaning in the mud room to take care of that rattler waiting on the front porch. And 200,000 Texans and counting have a concealed carry hand gun permit.

Our son is six; in the past few years I’ve seen him make a play gun out of his finger, a stick, a plastic grabber toy and, once, by chewing a peanut butter sandwich into a gun shape. We’ve also given him a couple of prop guns for imagination play – a pirate blunderbuss that goes with his pirate costume and a play rifle that stays in the closet unless Daddy can play with him….

Could allowing our son to play with toy guns — even to the limited extent that we do allow it — make him less likely to handle guns safely? Or are we just keeping a boy from being fully a boy?…

We are sheltering and shielding our child, protecting him from playing with toy guns, from falling off his bike without a helmet, from exposure to the horrible, violent things humans do to each other. All week, I’ve considered the idea that maybe the parents who graciously had us all over to play that day have the more realistic strategy — let the child watch a show about the reality of what guns do, and let him work it out through his play.

For some reason, it doesn’t bother me when the kids play light sabre battle, duel fiercely with foam swords or “zap” each other dead with imaginary lightning bolts from their fingers. But it really disturbed me to see them “shooting” each other with realistic-looking guns in pantomime of war, mankind’s greatest horror.

I have the same concerns and confusion about what is right, what would be good parenting. I am not sure if living in Korea, with it’s very strict gun-laws, makes the situation better or worse. The reality of what guns can do is diffused by distance, as we only see what they can do in TV, which is not a credible source.

Of course, and the author quoted above mentions light sabres, swords are relatively common here- and in even modern gang movies. Gang members have difficulty obtaining guns, so swords are more common, at least in the few gangster movies I’ve seen (Is Kick the Shilla Moon, a comedy, the right place to learn about Korea?)

And, I let my son play with swords – well, toy swords.

Worse, there is a sharp and dangerous sword in the apartment. After I received my black belt in Haedong Geomdo, I learned I was able to buy a real sword – you need a sword license here. I bought one and trained with it. Without actually being heavy, it is much heavier than my training sword and takes some practice. It has also tasted blood – mine, when I shaved the back of my left hand in a one-handed swing.

Back to guns, with the understanding that the same concerns apply to other objects.

I had a lot of toy guns as a child. I shot at friends and family members and if my father grimaced, I didn’t notice. Nowadays, I am as much a pacifist as anyone in South Korea can be with those crazies (I am using ‘crazy’ literally here) to the north that need watching and an armed deterrent. I don’t care for violence, don’t want to use violence, but can see it is sometimes necessary.

Did the change come when I first owned a ‘real’ gun? My father bought me a pellet gun when I was twelve or so. We had strict rules and he taught me how to use it properly. There was a seriousness about touching it that hadn’t existed with the toys.

The little guy has a toy gun – with ‘real sounds and flashes’ that a friend of the family bought him. He uses it sometimes and I am never happy about it. This summer, I am very likely to buy him -or both of us- a squirt gun, and feel that is very different despite the efforts squirt gun makers go to make them look like regular guns.* This I will wholeheartedly join him in playing with. Is that a mixed message?

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*We have a spritzer to water the plants. Are there any other squirt guns that would be fun to use that don’t look like hand guns or rifles? A small version of a forest fire fighting extinguisher, with a tank on the back and a nozzle and pump, would be great. Suggestions in the comments are (always) welcome.