Recent Blog Posts



All Recent Posts

Chinese Food in Seoul

Apart from good old Itaewon, finding real Chinese food in the suburbs of Seoul can be quite difficult. Just as the Americans have lemon chicken and chop suey (which many native Chinese are unfamiliar with), so too do the Koreans have their own interpretations of Chinese food, to which they adhere with admirable and puzzling tenacity.

Someone once asked Chen Jing "Well if you don't eat jjajjangmyeon in China, what else is there to eat?"

Every so often though, you can find a hole-in-the-wall type place that serves something refreshingly different. One small place we found near Nakseongdae station (come out of exit 4, turn left at the petrol station, then turn right and walk straight for a while), serves fairly authentic Chinese hot-pot, known as shabu-shabu in Korean. The word shabu-shabu is onomatopoeia, it's supposed to be the sound that the meat makes when you swish it around in the soup. I listened carefully while swishing, but could not detect the slightest hint of a 'shabu-shabu' type sound emanate from the broth.

While English speakers would say that dogs go 'woof woof', Koreans say that dogs go 'mung mung!'

The soup on the left was a seolleong-tang-esque type affair, while the soup on the right reminded me suspiciously of jjambong. Still, it was much better than most Korean Chinese restaurants here. The price was around US$30 for two people and quite good, although there was enough food for three people.

The only other place that I've found outside of Itaewon has been our old favourite in Suwon with the eccentric owners. Because we're down at the greenhouse a lot these days, Chen Jing and I have eaten here a few times. In the photo is Snow Beer, which is cheaper and not as popular as its cousin, Tsingtao Beer.

And for good reason.

Last week we tried wet noodles, which consisted of thickened chicken soup, cabbage, noodles and chicken. Quite simple and not too bad. What I liked most though, was the chilli oil on top, which I used to eat quite a lot back home.

When we head to Hong Kong next month, I think I'll be eating around six meals a day.

Creative Korean Advertising #18: “Keeping Couples Happily in Love for Years”

In the spirit of all the kissing suddenly being featured in Korean advertisements? Regardless, in a magazine format it’s an amusing and effective way to get an otherwise mundane product noticed. And the slogan is quite apt too, as Perioe’s original “Keeping couples happily in love for years” may well bring some alternative products to mind, neither [...]
  

 

Groove Magazine - Best of Busan

Back in my heady Busan days (i.e about two months ago) I wrote an article about my favourite places to eat in the city. The article was included in Groove Magazine's (http://groovekorea.com/) August edition, which has just come online as a pdf. (http://www.groovekorea.com/groovekorea/download/issue34-download.pdf)


Thanks to Dan from Seoul Eats (www.seouleats.com) for putting it in there, cheers mate!

This is Why I Should Learn More Korean

 
Knowing very little Korean has served me well in some situations. Less so in others. I don't actually condone refusing to learn the language of the cow you're milking. It is undoubtedly more advantageous to be able to communicate effectively in your own backyard than not. Even if you have zero interest in communicating with the locals any more than is absolutely essential (odd, but this level of social retardation does exist), then wouldn't it at least be nice to have the satisfaction of knowing that your taxi driver understands that you think he's a nutless fuck weed for taking an unnecessary detour?
 
I stopped learning Korean because I'm lazy. Yes, Korea, you heard right: the primary reason for my having embarrassingly little knowledge of your language after almost 2 years has nothing to do with you! Once I acquire what I believe to be a reasonable understanding of something, I move on to something else. What you and I consider to be a "reasonable understanding of something" probably differs. Feel free to do whatever it is that you do. After learning to read Korean, count, say some useful phrases, and have a gist of what somebody was saying about 10% of the time, I moved on to something else. Then, something else after that. Probably not productive things, but things, nonetheless.
 
Every now and then I consider studying Korean again, only to realize that my motivations for doing so are less than pure. Once you realize that the only phrases you wish to learn in a language are insulting ones, then the world is better off without you knowing it. Or, so I thought. As it turns out, I really probably should have learned a variety of Korean insults, words for genitalia, and other such things.
 
The other day, my afternoon writing class was working on an essay. I had to put them in teams; they get fussy if they have to do solo writing too many days in a row (God forbid independent thought flow freely). Obviously you can't be a team without a team name, so the students were asked to come up with a snappy name for their pair. Unfortunately, they weren't very forthcoming with ideas on that. They rarely are. Being lazy and uncreative myself, I decided to combine the first syllable of each of their names. Hence, Teams JoKa (John and Kate) and JaJi (Jake and Jinny) were created.
 
Nobody really responded to Joka, which I was quite amused with because I thought it sounded like "joker". This really isn't funny at all but sometimes, when I get bored, these are the things that keep me going. While I was busy amusing myself by saying Joka, I noticed that the class was still snickering over Jaji. Having no idea why Jaji (Korean: 자지) was so funny to them, I made a point of calling them by their team names for the rest of the class, just to elicit giggles.
 
At the end of class, one of the guys hesitated on his way out the door. "What's up?" I asked, in language slightly more professional than that. "Barbie, you know... you know that jaji has... maybe kind of a bad meaning... right?" Blink. It hadn't even dawned on me that my random combination of syllables meant something in Korean (in hindsight, it should have and I'm a tool for not realizing this). In short, yes, as you probably already deduced, I had in fact been referring to half of my class as "Team Penis".
 
Apparently the students assumed that I knew what 자지 meant, thought I was being funny, so nobody told me to cut it out. While I did think I was being funny, it was because I think that random syllables sound funny together - not because I had any idea that 자지 actually meant something. I apologized to the student and explained that (knowingly) making jokes of that nature is completely inappropriate and unprofessional, so of course I had no idea what I had been saying. I addressed the issue again the next day at the beginning of class for those students that weren't there when I owned up to my ignorance. They had a good laugh at my expense, while I pretended to be above Penis Jokes (not a total lie; in the classroom, sexual humour is a no-go zone).
 
I haven't told my supervisor yet, though I suspect that when I do he'll laugh in my face for a while, like my other coworkers did. This, followed by "you're an idiot", is the appropriate response.
 
 

Yakity Yak



The last week or so has been pretty interesting. Instead of cruising down the Yangtze with about 1 million other people, we decided to travel through the mountains of Western Shechuan and Northern Yunnan.

The area is part of cultural Tibet, and is about as close as you can get to Lhasa without a permit. Even so I was quite unprepared for just how different it would be. Once we got above the 3000 metre level China disappeared and Tibetan villages, prayer flags and nomads became the norm.

There's not much in the way of street food up there however. All I saw were either barbecued potato slices brushed with oil and sprinkled with chilli powder (fantastic) or processed sausage brushed with oil and sprinkled with chilli powder (gross.)

I did have the chance however (rather tackily I know) to chow down with the family of our thirteen year old nomad horse trekking guide.

On the menu were Tibetan bread, Yak milk, Yak cheese, Yak yoghurt and Yak butter. Almost everything was fantastic; the milk was warm and rich, the cheese sweet and earthy, and the yoghurt somewhere between the two. It was only with the butter that I began to fade - our hostess mixed it into dough with some barley flour to make something called tampa. The result was way to heavy for my feeble belly, but probably the perfect thing to get through the Tibetan winter.

Back in China

We crossed back into the relative civilization that is China yesterday, after a grueling two days of grinding along the "roads" of Laos. The roads in Laos are truly awful, almost indescribably bad, a collection of narrow pot-holed mud and dirt tracks with brief stretches of gravel and old pavement. Vehicles slog along at the speed of horse-drawn carts, and a journey of that would take an hour or two on a decent road can take a whole day.

But the shitty roads are one of the reason why Laos is so charming, in that it makes it tough to get around, difficult to actually get to places. It keeps the tour buses away, and helps to keep places remote. Of course this is my priveleged white tourist opinion: ask the locals if they would prefer an improved infrastucture, and they will reply with a resounding 'yes,' I'm sure. Whole villages are left without supplies after washouts and rockslides that take days or weeks to repair, and if someone has the misfortune to be really injured or sick and needs proper medical care, the day or two ride to the nearest decent hospital could undoubtably kill them.

Laos was wonderful, absolutely vivid green in this rainy season. After Luang Prabang we headed up the Nam Ou to the tiny town of Nong Kiaw, where we waited out a couple of days of misty rain, revelling in the remoteness of the place. It's nestled between steep limestone mountains where a bridge crosses the big brown river, and is home to a handful of Chinese merchants and guesthouses composed of stilted bungalows on the river bank.

Later we headed further up the river to Meung Ngoi, a village located in stunningly beautiful country, accessible only by boat. It was amazing to stay in a place with no cars or motorcyles, just hordes of chickens, turkeys, dogs, and very ugly black ducks. It too is surrounded by stunning limestone monoliths and mountains (called "Karsts", I believe). The weather finally cleared and we spent a whole day hiking to an isolated waterfall and then a cave, inside of which was a pure spring-fed river. We had both places entirely to ourselves and soaked it up appropriately. I also drank nearly a whole bottle of Lao Lao over dinner one night, which is the local hooch made from rice, which also doubles as tractor fuel. It seems that I am the only one of the group who actually can stomach the poor man's booze in these parts. My travel companions are a load of girls' blouses.

These two villages on the Nam Ou marked the end of our expansion; after that we were to retrace our steps back to The Special K. We were forced to spend another night in the shitty trader-vortex that is Uodomxai, and then made it back here to Jinhong, China, where I immediately high-tailed it to a hospital to get some sort of medicine for the frightenly-aggressive jungle heat rash that has attacked much of my body for the last week. Zero English was spoken by the hospital staff, but they put me on some sort of anti-rash IV and gave me a bottle of some sort of rash-killing tincture which seems to be doing the trick. I also just had my laundry done, which was close to rotting in the bag, so it looks like I'm on the road to recovery, thank Buddha.

Tonight Steve and I fly to Kunming, to meet up with our other two companions who elected to save some scratch and take the bus. Tomorrow morning it's off to Shanghai for two days to meet up with The Caf and put a punctuation mark on this thing. Then it's back to Busan, back to my cats, back to my girl, back to my job...

I gotta teach on Monday morning.

Work and Friends

We're in the lab every Saturday from 9am. Usually we can leave in the afternoon sometime, but when things are busy like they were last weekend, I find myself walking home late at night. On Sundays we can choose whether we want to come or not, but I nearly always have work to do. Last Sunday I had to go and take care of our experimental plants at Suwon in the morning, teach an English lesson and then go back to the lab at night to prepare a moderately enormous experiment for this week. Then it was Monday morning all of a sudden.

I generally don't mind working hard, but that means I get less time to hang around my old friends on the north side of the river. This photo is from a couple of weekends ago with Tae-Yang, me and Eric having a drink up in Hongdae. Back when I was a non-student, occasions like these were pleasantly more common.

These days, after a good 12 hours in the lab, I just find myself staring wistfully at the 70% ethanol spray that we use to sterilize the lab benches.

Giving the Korean Consumer What She Wants?

No attempt at analysis this time: most readers are probably well aware of why I would choose to highlight this photoshoot of Shin Min-a (신민아) and Jamie Dornan from the September edition of Elle Korea here! If not, then see here for starters, but if you’re looking for something more academic, then consider this post [...]

South Korea Trip- Tongyeong 통영

Alright you can check out the video of my trip from Busan to Tongyeong in South Korea. The trip in total was 295 kms. I rode the #14 highway from Busan to Tongyeong. On the trip I checked out an undersea tunnel, the famous turtle ship, historic government buildings and many other sites in the city. Each video is a one day trip. I start the day with no plan other than a final destination. By the end of the day I have compiled 2-4 hours of footage on two cameras. I then cut that footage into the five minute video you see here. The video features creative commons music by Diablo Swing Orchestra- The butcher’s Ballroom featured on http://www.jamendo.com. I have changed the look of the blog and video. Enjoy the video! Cheers, Jeff "A couple shots of the sunset"

Pages

Subscribe to Koreabridge MegaBlog Feed