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The National Museum of Korea

This past Wednesday (2010-10-27), Jo and I opted to take our daytime date at the National Museum of Korea. They have been running several exhibits detailing Korea's UNESCO's World Heritage sites.

The best part about the exhibit was the fact it was free. That's right, no price of admission for some culture and history.

Jo and I weren't sure how to get out there, so we called the trusty 1330 line. I made the mistake of asking how to get there by bus, and since there is no direct route from Gangnam to Ichon, it would have involved a transfer. But, I remembered the 9-Line intersected with Line 4 (Ichon), and sure enough, taking the express on the 9-Line took us within one stop of Ichon.

SWEET!

We managed to spend the entire day walking around the main hall. Heck, we even visited the Southeast Asia exhibits on the third floor.

I hope you enjoy this little video treat!

November 2010 events

Author's note: There's bound to be updates to this month's events - keep checking back for more information and new events! If you have an event you'd like to plug, comment on this post with all the details. Please follow a few guidelines for the maximum benefit.

All through November: now that Korean baseball and soccer are over, consider checking out the unsung Korean basketball league. A schedule can be found on Korea4Expats, and offer plenty of action without plenty of costs (floor seats for 20,000 won? You paid more for last weekend's drinks!)

All through November: Battle of the Bands TIMES TWO - Head to Stompers on the 6th, 13th, and 20th for prelims (6th and 13th) and the finals (20th). Because you probably haven't had enough, Rocky Mountain Tavern will keep the music going on the 26th and into December. For more information, go to Stompers' site or RMT's site.

November 1 - 17: Media City Seoul 2010 Biennale - Trust
. An engaging opportunity to experience a variety of art projects at the Seoul Museum of Art, the Gyeonghuigung Annex of Seoul Museum of Art, the Seoul Museum of History, and Simpson Memorial Hall on the campus of Ewha Girl's High School. Get more information at http://mediacityseoul.org/2010/

November 4-6: The Daegu Fashion Fair 2010 -
maybe not as big as the Seoul Fashion Week the Metropolitican covered en masse, but there's bound to be some cute people wearing interesting clothes. The website has some information in English, but not surprisingly it's incomplete.



November 5-14: Seoul Lantern Festival
- plenty of pretty lights along Cheonggyecheon. See last year's post for plenty of pictures, or check out this month's Groove Magazine for an article I wrote about it.

November 7: It's getting a bit chilly outside, but that won't stop Seoul from holding its Annual Citizens' Kite Festival. The official website is in Korean only, but Korea4Expats has all the information and contacts you'll need to have a good time.

November 10-13: Busan's International Food Expo - whether the 'International' word will fit the bill is one big question - as of this posting, the English version of the website either doesn't exist or just doesn't work. Leave it to the locals designing websites for IE6.

November 11-12: In case you've been living under a rock or without contact from the outside world, the G-20 Seoul summit comes to town for two short days of meetings. Don't bother visiting the COEX mall in Seoul, as entrance will be restricted from a two-kilometer radius. Instead, see what sort of crazy signs the protesters may have, or just sleep in those days. Read about it in the news or go see what's going on around the area, but don't do anything stupid.

November 12: (DEADLINE) The 1st annual Before Babel Brigade (BBB) essay contest. Write about your 'lost in translation' moment and win 300,000 won - more information at BBB's website.

November 12: Combine one Burlesque group, one rockabilly band, and one rockin' band. Call it the Frills and Thrills Burlesque Revue Rockabilly Pin Up Style. 'Nuff said. 20,000 won gets you in for all three shows - the Burlesque show, the Rock Tigers, and Mirrorhouse. DGBD in Hongdae, 11pm. See you there - I'll be the guy snapping shots in the front row.

November 12: If you're in the mood for some solo female acoustic acts, Roofers will have Zee Kang, Jennifer Waescher, and Lauren Calve
for your entertainment. The show starts at 9pm - more info at the Facebook page.

November 13 - The Encyclopedia Show Seoul. More details:
Series One Volume 1-Bears
A Fundraiser for Bear Necessity- Korea
Where? Roofers in Itaewon
When? Saturday,November 13,2010
What time? 8pm-11pm

What more do you need? The first show was awesome - since the venue has changed, there will be more room and a
much easier-to-find location.



November 13: A fundraiser posing as a date auction and concert
will be over at Rocky Mountain Tavern in Itaewon. Read the above for all the details - funds go to support the Camarata Music Company and a goal of supporting musical education for low-income Koreans. For more information, see the event's Facebook page.

November 18: The all-important suneung, or the Korean version of the SAT / ACT.
Try to be nice to your students in the week leading up to this. It's a joint struggle - but hey, it's a good chance to yell 'Fighting!' out of your window :)

November 20 (3-8pm): The Seoul ATEK chapter brings a free labor clinic to town
- free, of course, for anyone who might need advice from a real labor law firm. Head to the Itaewon Hannam Global Village Center near Itaewon station, and bring your employment contract and your ARC for the most effective assistance.

November 25: American Thanksgiving, for all of you Americans in Korea who might otherwise forget their own country's holidays (yours truly included). Announcements on special Thanksgiving menus and details about how to order Thanksgiving dinner from the Yongsan Army base to come.

November 26 - December 12: The Seoul Players presents 'Wintertime' - an "energetic comedy about the miracle of love." Written by Charles Mee, you'll meet Ariel and Jonathan, along with Maria, Francois and Frank, and a slew of other fantastically funny characters
to discuss love, its expectations and its complications. Recommended for viewers 15 and up for some nudity. For more information, check out their website. Head up to Roofers in Itaewon for these shows in November:

Friday, November 26 @ 8pm
Saturday, November 27 @ 8pm
Sunday, November 28 @ 5:00pm

November 27: Presenting
a daylong seminar on “Footprints of Choe Chi-won in Chungcheong-namdo” about this Confucianist hero of Korean Daoism. Presentations will be held in both Korean and English, and will be at Hanseo University on the slopes of Gaya-san in Seosan City. See the official Facebook page for more.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010


 

Early Hallowe’en festivities

WordPress doesn’t allow video uploading without paying for an upgrade, and Youtube has “voluntarily disabled this functionality [ the uploading of video] on kr.youtube.com because of the Korean real-name verification law.” *

So, to see the terrified teachers and hear the terrified students at my university, you need to visit creativitiproject.

——

*I prefer to link to sites when I quote from them, but it looked like the link for my personal page – accessible only after signing in.


While South Korea has no history whatsoever related to or even...


balloons for the party frog




small kiss between species!


hug an adjumma night

While South Korea has no history whatsoever related to or even associated with Halloween, I was pleasantly surprised by the celebration at work for the kids and in the streets at night. Foreigners swarmed KSU with great costumes, and vigor to match. I was a party animal, with a large group of friends. I am exhausted from the weekend festivities. What a great holiday!

About 

Hi, I'm Stacy. I'm from Portland, Oregon, USA, and am currently living in Busan, South Korea. Check me out on: Tumblr, Twitter, Instagram, Lastfm, and Flickr.

 

Korean Gender Reader

( Source )

1) Life is Beautiful (인생은 아름다워) cuts out gay vows

Highly commended for being the first Korean drama to feature a gay couple (see #3 here), many viewers have been disappointed and angered at the decision to literally mute a key scene in response to a complaint by the church in which it was filmed. Let alone the actors themselves.

2) Korean military’s ban on gays ruled unconstitutional by the National Human Rights Commission (NHCR)

A welcome contrast to the above news on the surface, in Korea homosexual men are usually merely judged “psychologically unfit” to serve. Homosexual acts that occur between enlisted soldiers nevertheless however, are punishable by up to 1 year in jail, and indeed 3 male soldiers were convicted of it in the years 2004-2007 (out of 176 cases).

Unfortunately however, the Korean military already has a long history of simply ignoring NHCR rulings, and ROK Drop also notes that “gays in Korea do not have the political connections, media backing, and the money of the gay groups in the US.” Moreover, as I explain in detail here, 15.8% of Korea’s new 250,000 conscripts each year already experience sexual violence, so I too expect virtually no changes to come as a result of this ruling.

3) Celebrity couple targeted by crazed anti-fans

Within hours of the announcement that singer Kim Jung-hyun (김종현) and actress Shin Se-kyeong (신세경) were dating:

Preexisting “anti-cafe” sites of  Se-kyeong surged in membership

More were formed

Se-kyeong was forced to close her personal homepage due to the overwhelming number of personal attacks. Later, her main fan-site also had to close

Many of Jung-hyun’s fansites were also closed (albeit because of the disappointment of their owners rather than because of attacks)

And Jung-hyun’s management company SM Entertainment cut off all contact between his group Shinee (샤이니) and the public (source, right)

While excessive, by itself this case doesn’t seem particularly noteworthy compared to most celebrity news. Place it in the context of numerous prior victims of Korea’s “anti-fans” however, the most recent and well-known of whom would probably be singer Tablo (타블로), then suddenly it seems much less like the irrelevant rantings of broken-hearted teenagers, and more a fundamental part of Korea’s wider netizen culture, with very real – and often tragic – effects on people’s lives.

To prevent broken-hearted teenagers growing up to become netizens though, surely it would help if they were actually punished for trashing their classrooms, not simply forgiven because they were so angry with Shin Se-kyeong?

Hell, it’s no wonder most Korean celebrities go to such elaborate lengths as these to hide their relationships.

4) Awwww

A romantic story? Or, more cynically, a simple reflection of the fact that many Koreans seem to get married very quickly after first meeting?

( Source )

5) HIV-positive 19 year-old prostitute arrested for having sex with 20 men

Possibly a high-school student, reportedly she did actually suggest using condoms, but her clients refused to wear them.

Would such acquiesce be typical for most Korean prostitutes however? It’s difficult to tell: in general, sexually-active Korean women are similarly reluctant to insist on using contraception, but I would have assumed that prostitutes had less qualms about losing their virginal reputations.

Much more interesting though, how on Earth did the police that found her learn about her HIV status? And more worrying, that one third of her classmates would similarly consider exchanging money for sex.

6) Foreign prostitutes no longer required to have AIDS tests to get a visa, but English teachers still do

Like numerous commentators have said, you simply can’t make news like this up, and there is probably no greater testament to the regular scapegoating and stereotyping of foreign teachers by the Korean media here.

In fairness though, the E-6 visa category is a real mess, and by no means are all the “entertainers” that come to Korea under it are prostitutes, as well explained by Benjamin Wagner (who filed a complaint about the tests last year).

7) “Dad? I don’t know why I need him”

It sounds like a gross generalization, but I have heard from numerous personal and written sources that Korean children (and adults) are much closer to their mothers than their fathers. Kim Seong-kon, a professor of English at Seoul National University, explains why here.

( Source )

8) Korea: the hub of cosmetic surgery?

Well of course I hear I you say, but in practice it’s often difficult to find exact numbers. And so, before the financial crisis at least:

…an estimated 30 percent of Korean women aged 20 to 50, or some 2.4 million women, had surgical or nonsurgical cosmetic procedures [in 2008], with many having more than one procedure.

Note that the 30% figure is for women that received procedures just in 2008, and so the figure for all women who have received procedures is likely to be far higher.  See here for more information and counter-arguments that the US is far more deserving of the title; and while we’re on the subject, also see here and here for composites made of female celebrities’ faces from various countries.

9) Ethics teacher fired for sexually harassing his students

Unfortunately, not only is he unlikely to be charged with anything, but commenters point out that his record will be wiped clean and he will be able to teach again in 5 years.

Much of the blame for that lack of punishment can be placed on the Korean Teachers’ and Education Workers’ Union, which apparently believes that verbal abuse is far more heinous.

10) No Sex Please, We’re Korean

Apparently “other than an alarming amount of rape, their is very little sex in Korean fiction.” And this is a big issue for translators and the popularization of Korean fiction overseas too, as even when it is there it is mentioned it is hardly explicit, and “and this means that translations from Korean will not seem ‘natural’ to western readers who expect bodices to be heaving and trousers (and panties) to be dropping.”

Apologies for all the largely negative stories this week folks: please send me in positive ones if you have them!^^

Update: with thanks to London Korean Links, this was nice to see the instant after typing that last line:

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Filed under: Korean Gender Reader Tagged: 김종현, 타블로, 샤이니, 신세경, 원조교제, Kim Jung-hyun, Shin Se-kyeong, SHINee, wonjo kyoje
  

 

princess peach, halloween kids, and outback

Happy Halloween!

I've got a few posts ready for the occasion. I was really worried this year wouldn't compare to last. Well, Halloween in Korea totally rocked. Huzzah!

First, my apartment...


I like that it says, Hello Halloween instead of Happy Halloween.












And we had two days of celebrating and parties at school. The first one we went to Outback (odd, yes) and had a Halloween parade.








My coworker made her outfit. Hint: it is a cosplay outfit. Can you guess which one? And I was Princess Peach minus the blonde wig.












Happy Birthday June!






Wow, Robert's mom went all out for that pirate costume. Just.. wow. Wow.














We are off to Outback, sir! Prince Eric...





Face painting.






Ohhhhh that dreaded hand pose....



We had a mini Halloween parade here. Sigh... I don't live in these apartments. :C
















Next post! Awesome night out at Kyungsung!

Nanoomi Party!

Nanoomi is a community of writers, translators and Korea-enthusiasts who have come together to share with the world, the deep and diverse ecology of the Korean blogosphere. I first learned of Nanoomi's existence through Roboseyo, who had a nice little affiliation badge in his sidebar. Upon further investigation, I decided to sign up and start posting on their website. There's an interesting cross section of the K-blogging community there, posting on various aspects of life in Korea.



To promote Nanoomi's launch, a party is being held in Hongdae next weekend. There will be some light food (including Korean tacos!), drinks, music and short presentations from some of the bloggers.

When: Saturday, Nov. 6, 6:30-10 p.m
Presentations from 7-8 p.m. Photo/Video Slideshow, Music, Light Refreshments, Party 8-10 p.m.
Where: Sonofactory (http://blog.naver.com/sonofactory/)
Taeseong Building, 1st floor, 204-54 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
Near Hongik University Station, line 2, exit 1
Map: http://bit.ly/c3hjhp
Phone: 070-8224-8976
Cost: 10,000 won (Pay at the door)
Nanoomi is the first site to bridge the Korean and English blogospheres, supported by a Korean media-tech venture, Tatter & Media, which is funneling efforts into highlighting English-language blogs in Korea.

In the past, Tatter & Media (http://tattermedia.com/), which claims over 200 of Korea’s top power bloggers as its partners, had focused exclusively on Korean-language content. But, in response to linguistic isolation on the Internet, in which people who speak a language interact only with each other online, Tatter is helping to give expat bloggers an opportunity to reach a Korean audience. This is happening not only through the site, but also with podcasts and Android apps that are in the works.

Nanoomi is a 'bridge blog' with writers who span the language divide with their content. For example, among Nanoomi’s 25+ bloggers:
  • Joe McPherson (ZenKimchi) and Jennifer (FatManSeoul) tell the world about Korean food, while also offering the Korean government and companies suggestions on how to market their food overseas.
  • Robert Koehler (The Marmot’s Hole) and Matt VanVolkenburg (Gusts of Popular Feeling) provide English-language readers translations of Korean news, document the country’s urban development and offer historical perspective on current issues.
  • Darcy Paquet and Tom Giammarco (KoreanFilm.org) open up Korean cinema to a global audience.
  • Simon and Martina Stawski (Eat Your Kimchi) provide a fun look into Korean life and pop culture through their entertaining videos.
You're all free to invite anyone who would be interested in this event. If you have any questions, you can contact Cynthia Yoo, Nanoomi’s founding editor ([email protected]) or Hannah Bae, Head Editor ([email protected]); or even Hyeon Chol Yang ([email protected]).

See you there on the 6th!

Radio Active

"One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” – Henry Miller

About once every two months I'm approached to write for a magazine, do a radio show or appear on TV, just because of this blog. Why? I'm not really sure. It's probably a similar story for the other foreign bloggers in Korea. Sometimes it seems people here desperately want to know what we think about Korea – although the vox populi vox dei (semper insaniae proxima) is the sword that potentially hangs over us if what we have to say veers too far off-script.

So while apparently these media offers are always a great opportunity for me to reach a wider audience, usually nobody seems to stop to consider whether this is really a good idea. Except me, so in the past I've always politely declined, for this and other reasons. In any case, I consider myself to have a face for radio and a voice for writing. In other words, I don't want to see myself on TV and I don't want to hear myself speaking. What's more, to some previous disappointment in Korea, sadly I don't have one of those Hugh Grant-style English accents – I'm from Northern England, where the accent – like so many other things – is a lot rougher. Writing a blog is about my level.

The latest invitation came from Busan e-FM, an English-language radio station here in the city, and it coincided with a few things including a bout of serious boredom I get every few years – or maybe it's a creeping sense of despair. Something needs to change – some new perspective needs to be added, no matter how small. So I decided to go over to the KNN building in Yeonsan-dong to talk to them about being a guest on one of their shows. It wasn't the first invite I'd had from the station – had my schedule allowed I would have accepted a different invitation several weeks earlier, but it didn't. I guess this means I've been bored for months.


By this time it had transpired that I was being invited in as a regular guest – once a week – to talk about my experiences living in Busan. And it follows – and I made sure – that not all my experiences can be positive ones so there would be certain topics that were more about the difficulties I'd faced. But that said, I've come to realise something important about living here in Korea. There isn't that much I really hate about it. I'd been avoiding the Korean media in part because of all my pent up 'Ignoreland'-style anger, except when I really sat down to think about it, I was mostly angry about other things and my quality of life in Korea was better than that of my life in England. So I believed I could talk on the radio and be genuinely 'fair and balanced' (in the true sense of the phrase – not the Fox News version) without upsetting anyone. Well, probably anyway. If there's one thing I don't like about Korea, it's that vox populi issue. People don't always need an excuse – or logic in the case of Tablo – to believe counter-factual dogma or to get angry about something, as I well know.

Before I even went on the air for the first time on Wednesday in the 'Open Mike in Busan' segment of the 'Inside Out Busan' show, I had already pushed my boundaries. The truth is - there's no getting away from it - it's a long time since I lived in the minor media spotlight, delivering speeches to audiences of hundreds and doing regular media spots. Ménière's Disease has left me a shadow of my former self, so whereas once a ten-minute weekly radio slot would barely have registered on my radar, now it's my own personal Everest. I've written this blog over the years to challenge myself into leading the most normal life possible; the desire to write about some event or place pushes me to go out and have that experience - but if it has portrayed the impression of normality it has been a façade. Now I've come to believe I'm in remission - or at least - the best remission I'm going to have, and I'm pushing the envelope of a tantalising possibility - that I might be able to lead a more normal life again, one in which I can work to a deadline, and make commitments to people that I can keep.

I'd also gained another new perspective. It was my first experience of working with Korean people professionally, and it's certainly been an education well worthy of detailed analysis in this blog. But there's a good rule with writing blogs, the machinations of your professional life stay private. Or to put it another way, the first rule of what happens in Busan e-FM, is that you do not talk about what happens in Busan e-FM. The second rule is that you DO NOT talk about what happens in Busan e-FM, and the third rule is that if someone yells “stop!”, goes limp or taps out, then it's over. So I'll have to save it for my memoirs.

But suffice to say, language and culture barriers can be difficult enough to overcome in social life, but when those barriers extend to business life, where important things are being done to a schedule, they can take on a whole new edge. And they certainly have – in fact I'm reminded of an old project management adage:

"I know that you believe that you understand what you think I said, but I am not sure you realise that what you heard is not what I meant.”

As always, the real problem is me. In this case, my lack of understanding of Korean business culture and my lack of understanding the Korean language. So perhaps this out of character decision of mine to stick my head above the parapet has already served a purpose. I have widened my perspective, seen the world from a different point of view, and realised – I have to up my game. For three years in Korea I have sat at my desk through some of the most turbulent times in financial history, and it has sucked away huge amounts of my time at the expense of the development of my Korean life. The longer this continues the more problems I will have here, so it can't. Whether I can do anything about it is a more open question – I feel like my IQ is dropping by about two points every year – which doesn't sound like much but it's a problem if I didn't have much to spare to begin with, and it mounts up. Learning Japanese fourteen years ago was much easier than this, and I didn't even live there.

In some respects it's a measure of how insulated my life here has been that I never listened to Busan e-FM until recently. Which is a great pity. Much of the Western foreigner experience in Korea centres around Seoul, in fact most of Korea seems to centre around Seoul. Korea reminds me a lot of those nesting Russian matryoshka dolls – if you live in Namhae you want to move to Busan, if you live in Busan you want to move to Haeundae, if you live in Haeundae you want to move to Seoul, and if you live in Seoul you want to move to Gangnam. What do people in Gangnam aspire to? Making even more money and 'enhancing their prestige' would be my guess. Anyway, I doubt they're really as happy as they might have us believe.

So even though Busan is the second city, for me it hasn't always felt as though there was a strong ex-pat community here – most Western foreigners seem to be in Seoul. Or at least, I never heard much from the Busan ex-pat community aside from the few discussions on the Busan-friendly Koreabridge. But these days some of that insight – that connection – is perhaps only ever a radio dial away, on Busan e-FM.

In fact it's a measure of my isolation that I will add what might be an interesting insight. Since coming here in 2006 I've spoken to one foreigner face-to-face, on one occasion, for about twenty minutes – he came into Gimbab Nara where I was eating. That was in 2007, and it's the kind of life you can lead embedded in a Korean family in the unfashionable Western edge of the city of Busan. On Wednesday evening, at Busan e-FM, I massively increased the number of foreigners I've ever met here in Busan from one to three. One of them is Tim, the new host of Inside Out Busan, who was great and really put my nerves at ease. Well, as much as possible in the edgy, nervous world I inhabit these days.

My time on Busan e-FM will be short, but I expect to be listening to Inside Out Busan long afterwards. For anyone with an interest who is unlucky enough to be living outside Busan, the podcasts or “AOD” (Audio-On-Demand) downloads can be found here. I'm afraid it seems to be Windows only, or at least ironically, it doesn't work on my Ubuntu system. Well, that's life in Korea for you.

Busanmike.blogspot.com
 
Twitter:  @BusanMike
YouTube: /BusanMikeVideo
Flickr:  /busanmike
 

I can see for pretty miles and pretty miles

Fall was just beginning to show off her deep rich colours in Oregon, when I packed my suitcase and left her, and her cool days behind to be reunited with my beloved summer in Hawaii.

I began my Hawaiian adventure where any good tourist begins, in Waikiki. The name alone is just too much fun to pass up. 







My second day there I followed some new friends up to the top of the Diamond Head crater.






 If Jeju is the Hawaii of Korea, and actually I’ll agree to that, then Diamond Head is their …. oh  I can't remember the name, but it's the crater beside Udo island. Anyway, the view at the top is a little nicer in Hawaii, but the crater itself is prettier in Korea. I’m just saying.








What is a suitable reward for marching up a big crater and climbing a bunch of stairs? If you’re a big tall guy from South Carolina it’s Vienna sausages for you and your pretty lady friend.






… if you’re me, it’s a shave ice. Coconut and lilikoi (passion fruit) please.



..and maybe a massive bottle of soju for later.



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