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Convenience Store Raid Series: Deli Manjoo

A couple of these not-too-sweet little guys on a chilly day and life is great. They're called Deli Manjoo (델리 만쥬) -- Deli, short for delicious, and Manjoo for the Korean word for Chinese dim sum. Cute, right? They can be found at small stands next to many convenience stores, pumping out of the automatic machines especially built to create them. The same stands usually sell another snack called hodo kwaja (호도 과자), cakes molded into walnut shapes, filled with red bean and walnut. The cream cakes' outer shells resemble pound-cake, and the inside is a creamy, custardy deliciousness. A bag of them, enough to share, usually costs about 3,000 for 20 or 2,000 for 12. Make sure you get them hot; they lose a lot of their awesomeness if they've cooled. They pair really well with a big glass of cold milk. 

                    

look ma, i’m shooting again!

it’s been a long, wintry hiatus. so many excuses. mainly this one: i never leave my house. between teaching, acting as atek‘s national communications officer and associate editor of busan haps, i find myself doing a lot of lesson planning, writing, facebook-checking and laundry and not a lot of snapping.

anyway, this weekend, it was finally warm enough to enjoy doing things outside again, so i returned to beomeosa (boh-MOH-sa) with rita and was led around the temple by a delightful volunteer named cho. it was the anniversary of a buddha’s death, and there were lots of people at the temples, chanting and handing out fruit and burning incense and other temply things. some nuns with their heads shaved gave rita some flowers to make tea with. they were cracking themselves up as one of them shoved a palm full of flowers under rita’s nose. zen antics? it’s hard to say.


beomeosa’s water fountain is a mountain creek that they pipe into this concrete box and drink with gourds.

all the monks were decked out in their fancy gear for the buddha’s memorial.

and there were spring colors!


afterward, rita and i went to shinsegae, where we found a bathtub full of pink bubbles and a big whisk.

then we hung out while jeff got a new tattoo before eating delicious jimdak with kyung jin.


 

brazilian jiu jitsu

meet vince.

he’s an english teacher, a father of two and a badass. vince is a mixed martial artist with UFC aspirations. i photographed him at practice a few weeks ago for a busan haps piece that i think might now be defunct. here are some snaps from his last practice before a brazilian jiu jitsu competition in seoul. this guy lost eight pounds in two days for this competition. he is an animal and a really nice fellow to boot.

vince has a blue belt with three stripes, meaning he’a about to graduate to purple, an intermediate ranking in BJJ. he’s been practicing this sport for about three years.

warming up.

these exercises are basically all things that look exceptionally easy until you try to do them thirty times in a row and you quickly realize how weak you are.

learning some new moves.

and at last grappling.


63 Years On: Film Screening about Comfort Women

Although the tragedies that are affecting Japan right now are serious there is something else to consider thinking about this month. There will be a film screening at The House of Sharing at Dongguk University which will show, in multiple languages with English subtitles, the stories of 5 survivors of the Japanese Military Sexual Slavery during WWII.

I know this sounds pretty serious but let's consider this part of history for a moment and that you have an opportunity to go see a piece of creation about it.

The details:
  • It is free. 
  • The film is in multiple languages and there will be a speaker along with a group discussion.
  • Date: March 26th from 3 - 5pm (the film is 63 min long)
  • At Dongguk University in Seoul at the Cultural Center, Deok Am Seminar Room, 1st Floor
  • How to Get there: Take Line 3 to Dongguk University Station. Take exit 6 and go up the escalator and follow the road until you see Lee Hae Lang Fine Arts Theater...it's the building on the backside of the theater.
  • Info: www.houseofsharing.org                Email:  info@houseofsharing.org 
This looks like a great opportunity to see some history and then talk about it during the discussion period.

From the press release:

This screening provides a window to an episode of Asian and International history which has been willfully ignored by so many for more than 63 years. You are invited to join the House of Sharing and show your support to the survivors who continue the fight for justice.

Why Private Equity Fails in Korea: KEB-Lone Star

Private Equity Firms Strongly Disagree With This Attitude
There are some very large reasons why the “next Facebook” probably doesn’t come from South Korea. One reason is NOT the lack of educated, creative people. However, the ones that do exist are enormous. First, chaebol dominate everything in Korea. The evidence is abundant. Lee Kun-hee, chairman of Samsung, has publicly disagreed with a proposed policy which would provide funding for small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs). Second, private equity firms do not have confidence that they can monetize their investment at some point in the future. The case that they rightfully examine, and rightfully point to as evidence is the KEB – Lone Star debacle. The Seoul Gyopo Guide has detailed the underlying fact: you do not get to change your mind/policy after the fact, after a legal agreement has been reached, just because you do not like the outcome. That is particularly true when the policy changes as a result of popular opinion. That is precisely the way that private equity firms are looking at the the KEB – Lone Star situation. Lone Star took the risk, the outcome was uncertain at the time, and they rightfully deserve the reward for taking the risk at that time. Every other complaint, statement, etc is subordinate to this unchallenged concept. Every complaint, statement, etc looks anti-foreigner, and runs against fundamental economic principles. Period. Koreans also know that policy changes occur frequently on political whim. This is the behavior of an under-developed economy, not a sophisticated one.

The Recent Korea Times Article is a BAD JOKE
Incredibly, this article was published which stated, “Either way, Lone Star to be a winner.” That is not the way that Lone Star or other private equity firms, will view the situation. The fact is that every private equity firm has, is, and will question whether or not the Korean legal system will defend an investor’s rights, regardless of race. To suggest “well, you win anyway, no matter what the outcome,” is totally wrong. The investors could have used that money for other purposes, like trying to find the next Facebook in Korea. Importantly, investors would have certainty, and faith in the Korean system. Make no mistake: every single day that passes without a legitimate reason for a delay is seen as a negative. Take a simple example. You sell a Gangnam apartment, and agree upon a price. You wait 5 YEARS for the payment? During that time, what would you have done with the money, which was yours in the first place? Nothing? What if you could have used that money, and invested in something else that would have become more valuable during that time? Would you be happy? Nope. Yes, it really is as simple as that.

Not a Single Counterargument
The Seoul Gyopo Guide has challenged, prodded, BEGGED to hear a counterargument against any of the points that have ever been made here or any other forum. There has not been a SINGLE letter or comment or email to the Seoul Gyopo Guide over this matter. NOT ONE. That is really all you need to know.


Death of a Laptop and Ulleungdo in Late Winter

Hello everybody!

The busy level here in Busan has cranked up about nine notches in the last couple weeks, hence my lack of Coco posts and pics.  I’ve got a couple new projects on the go, and as my Toshiba died its final death in early January, my current computer time is a juggle of brief breaks at school and late hours in the dungeon-like PC bong below my apartment building, where I prep essay-writing lectures while sitting wedged between teenage Korean gamers playing Starcraft.  At least I think that’s what they’re playing.  I slap the headphones on pretty quickly, click onto CBC Radio 2, and tune into the Classical station, attempting to drown out the sound of gunshots and K-pop blasting from both sides of my cubicle.  It almost works.

Luckily, I’ll be welcoming a new laptop into my life (hello, Mac!) asap.  Then I can go back to writing from the comfort of my bed desk, which will inevitably mean longer and more frequent Coco posts.  Can’t wait.

Until then, I’ll be posting brief notes and photos to keep the flow going.  Hope you continue to stop by and say hello.  I always love to hear from you!

These pics are from a sunset-hour hike Joe and I took on Ulleungdo Island in February. After a three-hour boat ride from Pohang, a steel-factory city on Korea’s East coast, we arrived to a volcanic island covered in snow, which made for a peaceful and beautiful two-day visit.  My boots were soaked about six minutes into this climb to Naesujeon Observatory (and remained soaked for most of the trip),  but the view was worth it.  More Ulleungdo posts to come!

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The State of Co-Worker Relationships in Korea

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It’s Monday, and I show up to my hagwon’s teachers’ room at five-till-one. I look around and notice that two of the Korean teachers’ desks have been cleared out. Did they quit? I’m the only one in there at that point so I can’t ask anyone. I try to remember: Did either of them say anything to me about it last Friday? And then I remember that I did, in fact, talk to them, and we did the usual “Whatcha doin this weekend?” exchange, to which I WOULD expect “I’m quitting,” or something like that, but in fact, I’m fairly certain that ”Oh, nothing special” was the answer that I got.

Nothing special. That’s what the relationship feels like most of the time between the native English speakers and then Korean teachers. Don’t get me wrong: My co-workers are great. I get along with all of them. But there’s still a real level of separation between us. Before I get into it, I realize that some native English speakers really get along with their Korean co-workers and drink makgeolli on a mountain and have kimchi parties and play badu every Tuesday. I just haven’t met any of them.

So why is it so strange/awkward/indifferent between co-workers? I blame the situation on three factors:

1) The nature of hagwons

At 90% (maybe more) of hagwons, the native English speakers and the Korean teachers are fundamentally at different levels. We’re on different pay grades. We’re expected to do less work than the Korean teachers. We’re  given very little actual responsibility. The Korean teachers scramble between classes to make word lists and call parents, while we generally relax and grab our stuff for the next class.

You see the gap in the respect from the kids as well. They spend half my class trying to sneak-study for one of the Korean teachers’ tests, while they couldn’t care less what the foreigner at the front of the room is talking at (not talking to) them about.

The one-year contract is also part of the problem. It’s a unique situation when you can look at your job and your life and say “in one year, this will end and I’ll be doing something else.” You could dive in head first and really get to know everyone at work… or you could just figure that you’ll be gone n a year.

It goes the other way, too. My hagwon is an extreme case, but when I started my contract here in Busan six months ago, there were 7 Korean co-workers. Only two of those seven now remain, six months later. The hagwon is merely a stopgap or something temporary for most. Not a healthy environment to build friendship.

2) The mercenary attitude of the teachers

As English teachers in Korea, we’re mercenaries. We’re there, yes, to learn about another culture and, yes, to educate the children. But we’re also paid a lot, have a high standard of living, and have the opportunity to save money while still travel and live it up. Maybe we try to tell ourselves otherwise, but if it weren’t so lucrative, we wouldn’t be here.

On the other hand, the Korean teachers make about half of what we do, don’t get housing paid for, and – like I said before - are expected to do most of the work.

We’re also here because it’s something ’exciting’ and ‘different’ to do, as well as to save (somewhat) vast amounts of money, while our Korean co-workers are there… to make a living. Our co-workers listen to us talk about how we’re jetting out to Shanghai for a long weekend this week, and Vietnam a month or so later. Or about how we bought a new camera lens or a Ferarri (um… yeah). Of course there are exceptions and of course I’m exaggerating. But you know what I’m saying, right?

3) The language barrier

I have plenty of friends where English isn’t their first language. With MAYBE one exception, I’ve always been better friends with the ones that can speak better English. If I were making a graph, I’d put “level of friendship” on the y-axis and ”level of English” on the x-axis, and there would be a steadily increasing line with a slope of 1. I realize you can really hit it off with certain people, but it’s hard when you can’t fully express yourself.

An example is my relationship with my Korean co-worker Ann. I’ve always been very cordial with Ann. However, she’s not great at English, and I’m super-duper not great at Korean. Therefore, we exchange hello’s, speak about students (Jun is good! Judy is not good!) and say goodbye’s. Lots of smiles, though. I couldn’t help but view her as a quiet, nice but simple woman. But every time I see her with the students, a whole other side of her personality shows through. She jokes around with them (in Korean, of course), pulls out goofy facial expressions, and just communicates on a whole different level than what I see in the teachers’ room. The Ann teacher that I thought I knew wouldn’t have cracked those jokes and wouldn’t be the center of attention. It just shows how much I don’t know her, and how much I probably won’t get to know her.

These are all barriers that distance ourselves from our co-workers. At the end of the day, like any relationship, it takes work. Question is: how bad do you want it?

Japan nuclear crisis should stir deliberations for energy alternatives

As Japan frantically fights to prevent power reactors meltdown following last week’s overwhelming earthquake and tsunami, I entreat that the world takes a hiatus and reflect. Perhaps I’m in a panic – or have I immersed myself too deep into junk news and analysis? Whatever the case, I have a right to choose hermeneutic of suspicion and doubt if we are being told only but the truth about the Fukushima radiation levels. The facts are neither consistent nor convincing. For the benefit of doubt though, I recognize the challenge of evaluating such a massive catastrophe.

But what lessons will the world learn from Japan? I must confess that the more I read opinions from the media outlets the more I get disappointed. Many proponents of nuclear energy hysterically suggest that the world should now build and operate modern nuclear reactors that use the latest and safest technology. But didn’t Japanese use latest technology for Fukushima reactors four decades ago? Correct me if I’m wrong. And how on earth can a natural calamity respect “safe” technology?

Predictably, some analysts have quickly turned their eyes to the emerging economies, China and India in particular. Though their concerns appear genuine, I submit to them that responses so far from these very nations have been an echoing disillusionment. Both Chinese and Indian governments say Japan’s catastrophe offers imperative lessons but they gave no indication that they will reconsider the ambitious development of nuclear plants. To be fair, but in a rather remarkable turnaround, China announced suspension for all new nuclear power plants until the government could issue revised safety rules. Yes, until a revised safety rules are issued… then what? Earlier, the Chinese vice minister of the environment allegedly said China will not change its plans to develop nuclear energy despite what happened in Japan. In other words China is likely to resume building reactors, about 28 reactors, or nearly 40 percent of the global total.

India’s own atomic scientist Dr Gopalakrishnan was quoted warning that nuclear safety in India has been compromised. India has plans to buy 21 foreign nuclear power reactors at time when, according to former the AERB Chief, Indian engineers are yet to grasp new and unfamiliar technologies – a dangerous situation should an accident occur.

The rest of the world with ambitious nuclear energy pursuit seems undeterred. In South Korea, for instance, the much the government has done in the wake of Japan tragedy is to undertake an anti-earthquake training. Korean peninsula is generally safe when it comes to earthquakes. If your guess is as good as mine, Korea’s nuclear expansion and export plans remain intact.

In another development, though France has called for an emergency G-20 meeting, I doubt whether the message will be to stop nuclear energy development and take on renewable energy path. I stand for the latter.

While a number of countries rely on nuclear energy, last week’s earthquake is an open wake-up call – a call to heed the advice to undertake alternative energy and shun fossil and nuclear resources altogether.

Whether developing countries and newcomer nuclear countries will reconsider their energy investment strategies or not, the lesson is for them as well.

There are a number of reasons why the world’s lesson from Japan should point towards renewable. First, owing to the realities of climate change, governments need to drastically reduce reliance on fossil fuels and rethink nuclear power ambitions. Secondly, one of the greatest unacknowledged threats to global economy is the looming peak of global oil production. And thirdly, natural calamities are neither 100% predictable nor its destructive capacity controlled.

Serious problems associated with nuclear energy include enormous cost of establishing a nuclear power plant. Again, the intrinsic problem of what to do with nuclear waste arises. The highly radioactive byproducts of nuclear fission create a massive health and security hazard. The world admits that no easy way to handle nuclear waste today and we are yet to see that when Japan recovers.

On the other hand, renewable energy can supply a significant proportion of energy needs, create jobs and offer other benefits including environmental improvement, increased fuel diversity and national security. It also has economic development benefits. Renewable energy is also advantageous over nuclear in that there is no need to transport fuel to generators since hydroelectric dams take advantage of existing streams; photovoltaic cells utilizes direct sunlight; and wind generators take advantage of the atmospheric movement inherent in a rotating planetary body.

Renewable energy, especially solar and wind power, is also tremendously scalable. Multiple generators can be installed across a wide geographic area. The recent improvement of floating wind turbines means that the geographic area does not necessarily have to be on solid ground.

Ultimately, there is the overall human responsibility of stewardship over the environment. In fact, any religion, education, art, government, culture or philosophy that has no concept of stewardship on environment and indeed all of creation may be as good as notoriety of cancer – killing slowly.


"Thick Dumpling Skin": A Little Ray Of Sunshine.

Introducing:

Thick Dumpling Skin

Now, I am not an Asian-American (obviously). However, I am an American woman who has spent a fair bit of time in Asian countries surrounded by Asian ideals of female beauty. I have also had my fair share of body image issues. So, while I may not be able to relate 100% to these beautiful ladies, Lynn Chen and Lisa Lee, I understand where they’re coming from and as a woman I appreciate what they’re doing to bring down negative body image.

The one thing I got so tired of hearing while abroad in both Japan and Korea came from women who I thought to be the epitome of slender gorgeousness. “I need to lose weight.” “I’m very chubby.”

As a heftier white gal in that situation I was quick to get annoyed.

For years I idolized the Asian concept of beauty. I yearned to be that small, that petite, that ‘feminine’. It was impossible for me, of course. I’m not a petite woman. I’m not short, and I’ve certainly never seen the scale speak to me at anything below 135lbs (61kg). I currently balance out at a (muscular if I do say so myself) healthy 145 (65kg).

I incorrectly assumed that the majority of Asian women were all enjoying these attributes that I couldn’t boast.

When I first went abroad to Japan I felt like an Amazon. Size 10 shoe (impossible to find in any shoe store), size 12 pants (I had to move up to super sizes and couldn’t shop for pants in department stores), and a 75kg (165) scale reading screaming at me every morning.

It certainly altered my already skewed image of myself.

I was always too miserable with my body to try to understand where my Asian girlfriends were coming from when they complained about their own bodies. They got no sympathy from me. I feel sorry now for not supporting them the way I wanted to be supported.

Over the years I managed to shed a few lbs, and slowly start seeing myself in a healthier light.

A trip back to Korea got me back in the dumps again with how I felt about my body.

Every time I flicked on the television while in Korea I was bombarded with starlets and pop-stars who looked as though they didn’t even have room for all the necessary organs in their bodies. In the beginning (back when I was a teen) I believed that this was just the norm for Asian girls. They were naturally skinny. End of story.

After a few months in Korea I slowly began to see how impossible these images of ‘beauty’ in Asia really were, I got less annoyed when one of my Korean friends mentioned their thighs, or pinched their cheeks and called themselves chubby. Instead of rolling my eyes at them, I started to do what I was so lucky to have people do with me. I listened.

I actually feel really blessed, when I look back and consider the environment that I was in when my self body image was so abysmal.

My parents never called me fat, they never commented on my weight. Even when I was at my heaviest they always told me that I looked fine, and that I was a beautiful girl. Even my brothers who were and are both in incredible physical shape never told me I was chubby.

When it comes to the big picture, I had loving people to support me through the rough spots. I want to be that kind of loving person to my friends when they find themselves looking in the mirror and not seeing something they like.

Instead of rolling my eyes or comparing flaws, I do what I do when I look at my own image in the mirror. I say something positive.

Do I still get annoyed when an Asian friend of mine says something about her size? Okay, I can’t lie. Yes. In my eyes they are still gorgeous. I can’t help myself. But, I’m slowly beginning to see where they’re coming from, what they’re up against, and how much support they’re lacking. The support that I always had.

No matter ethnicity, we are all women. The majority of us face those times when we don’t like what we see in the mirror. We’ve experienced being a slave to other people’s opinions of us. We are all affected by the media ideal of beauty, and we want nothing more than to be happy. Happy with our lives, happy with ourselves.

I am ecstatic to see “Thick Dumpling Skin”, because I see women coming together to support each other in the effort to abolish negative self-images, and to create a support system for those struggling with finding joy in themselves.

Reading their blog has helped me, even though I am not an Asian woman, understand some of the feelings I’ve had in my life. I realize that, in all actuality, I’ve never been alone. Skinny people saying that they’re fat have never exclusively surrounded me. Instead, I’ve been surrounded by sisters experiencing the same issues, the same battles, and the same triumphs that I have dealt with, and am dealing with now.

I hope that some of you girls reading this, despite race or nationality, will be able to find encouragement in “Thick Dumpling Skin” just as I did.

Please check it out, and enjoy muchly.

Until next blog,

~A.

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