Temple History

Haeunsa Temple is located on the northern part of Mt. Geumosan (976.5 m) in western Gumi, Gyeongsangbuk-do. It’s believed that Haeunsa Temple was first founded by the famed monk Doseon-guksa (827-898 A.D.) at the end of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). When the temple was first established, it was named Daehyeolsa Temple. During the late Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the Korean official-scholar Gil Jae (1353-1419) of the Goryeo Dynasty and early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) hid in this area and planted bamboo. While hiding at the temple, he is said to have learned Taoism, as well.

Sadly, and during the Imjin War (1592-98), all the buildings at the temple were destroyed. In fact, and near Haeunsa Temple, there’s a cave known as Doseon-gul. The cave is named after Doseon-guksa, the founder of the temple. It’s stated that between 500 to 600 people stayed in this cave while fleeing the Japanese invading forces in 1592 during the Imjin War.

It wasn’t until 1925 that the temple was rebuilt, once more, this time by the monk Cheolhwa, who renamed the temple as Haeunsa Temple. The Daeung-jeon Hall at Haeunsa Temple was built in 1956. The rest of the buildings at Haeunsa Temple were rebuilt from 1978-84 by the monk Seonghwa.

Temple Layout

After taking the cable car that brings you halfway up the mountain, you’ll then need to exit the cable car building to the west. Heading in this direction, you’ll come to a small collection of large cairn-like pagodas. It’s to the west of these stone pagodas that you’ll find the compact Cheonwangmun Gate. Housed inside this entry gate are four images of the Four Heavenly Kings. The exterior walls of the Cheonwangmun Gate are adorned with intricate dancheong, as well as images of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors).

Nearing the main temple courtyard, the first building to greet you is the Jijang-jeon Hall. Having entered the main temple courtyard, you’ll find the Jijang-jeon Hall to your right. Alone on the main altar inside this temple shrine hall is large golden image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). To the left and right of the main altar are large paintings dedicated to Jijang-bosal, as well.

To your rear is the compact Jong-ru Pavilion that houses a solitary bronze bell. And to your far left, you’ll find the administrative offices and kitchen facilities at Haeunsa Temple. Straight ahead of you, on the other hand, is a bronze statue of Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag). I’ve seen the exact same statue at both Dorisa Temple and Yongmunsa Temple.

Up a flight of stairs, you’ll come to the Daeung-jeon Hall at Haeunsa Temple. The exterior walls are painted gold and are adorned in cute Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). The reason I say cute is that instead of having a younger ox-herder, the paintings are populated by images of three ox-herding children. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues under a large, golden canopy. In the centre of this triad rests an image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by statues of Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). To the left of the main altar is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural), while to the right is an equally modern mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars).

To the right rear of the main hall, and up a longer set of stairs, you’ll find the Sanshin/Dokseong-gak Hall. Looking inside this shaman shrine hall, you’ll find a large statue dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) on the main altar. Backing this statue are two paintings dedicated to two shaman deities. The first of the two, and hanging to the right, is a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), who is accompanied by puggish-looking tiger. And to the left is an equally elaborate painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).

To the left of the Sanshin/Dokseong-gak hall, and down a small mountain trail behind the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find an opening, where there’s a nine-story pagoda with a golden finial atop this stone structure. The base of the structure has nine reliefs of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). As for each of the nine-stories of the structure, they have diminishing images of various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas adorning them as the pagoda moves upwards. Backing this pagoda is a larger statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha). This statue is then backed by reliefs of Bodhisattvas like Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Jijang-bosal, as well as images of the Four Heavenly Kings. It’s also from this vantage point that you get beautiful views of Mt. Geumosan off in the distance.

If you have the time and stamina, you can also enjoy Doseon-gul Cave to the southwest of the temple grounds. It’s under 100 metres to get there. And if you really have the time and stamina, you can continue southwest for about 200 metres to see Myeonggeum-pokpo Waterfall.

How To Get There

There are numerous buses that go from the Gumi Intercity Bus Terminal to get to Haeunsa Temple. There are buses like Bus #10, #11, #184, and #195. These buses will drop you off at the “Daegu Eunhaeng-ap hacha – 대구은행앞 하차” bus stop. The bus ride will take just 5 minutes. From here, you’ll then need to cross the road to the south and get on either Bus #27 or Bus #27-3. You’ll then need to get off at the “Geumosan-chulbal hacha – 금오산출발 하차” bus stop. This bus ride should take you an additional 7 minutes. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head southwest towards Mt. Geumosan. You’ll need to head in this direction for about 500 metres, until you come to the Geumosan Cable Car Building. A return ticket, both there and back, will cost you 11,000 won. If you’d rather just one way, it’ll set you back 6,000 won. Once arriving on the other side, you’ll need to walk just 50 metres southwest to get to Haeunsa Temple.

Overall Rating: 7/10

Of course it’s the views at Haeunsa Temple that are the most impressive. Mt. Geumosan is a beautiful mountain with rugged terrain. In addition to the beautiful environs that envelop Haeunsa Temple, you can also enjoy the beautiful paintings that surround the exterior of the Daeung-jeon Hall, the pair of shaman murals inside the Sanshin/Dokseong-gak Hall, as well as the nine-story pagoda to the rear of the main hall. Haeunsa Temple presents a beautiful blend of things to see both artistically and naturally.

Temple History

Bongamsa Temple is located to the south of Mt. Huiyangsan (996.4 m) in northwestern Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. Bongamsa Temple was first founded in 879 A.D. by the monk Jijeung (824-882 A.D.), who was also known as Doheon-guksa. Bongamsa Temple was the main temple of the Huiyangsan School, which was one of the nine branches of Korean Seon Buddhism known as the “Seonjong Gusan – Nine Mountain Seon Sects.” These Seon sects were established at the end of the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.) and the start of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392).

It’s believed that the temple was named Bongamsa Temple in 881 A.D. by King Heongang of Silla (875-886 A.D.). This name originally came from a story about how at the time of the temple’s construction, there was a cliff named Gyeam, which means “Rooster’s Cliff” in English. This cliff is located in the Baekundae Valley, which is part of Mt. Huiyangsan. According to this story, a rooster crowed every dawn helping to inform people of the time of day. This rooster was considered to be a phoenix, so the temple was named Bongamsa Temple, which means “Phoenix Cliff/Rock Temple” in English.

According to an 18th century survey of the names and locations of Buddhist temples in Korea, King Gyeongsun of Silla (927-935 A.D.), who was the last ruler of the Silla Kingdom, took refuge at the temple inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall, while escaping the enemy’s advancing army. Shortly thereafter, all of the buildings at Bongamsa Temple were destroyed by fire except for the Geukrak-jeon Hall.

The temple was later rebuilt in 935 A.D. by the monk Jeongjin-guksa. In 1431, the temple underwent a renovation overseen by the monk Gihwa. The temple was partially destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98) and rebuilt, once more, in 1674 by the monk Sinhwa. The current shrine halls at Bongamsa Temple were rebuilt in 1915 after a 1907 fire. In 1955, the temple was restored to its present condition.

In addition to all of this history, Bongamsa Temple also played an important role in the contemporary history of Korean Buddhism, as well. In October, 1947, the monks of this temple formed the Bongamsa Gyeolsa, which means “Phoenix Rock/Cliff Temple Association” in English. And in the following three years, attempts were made to reform Korean Buddhism under the slogan, “Let’s live according to the Buddha’s teachings.” Beginning in the early 1970s, more monks started coming to the temple, and in June, 1982, the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism designated Bongamsa Temple as a special temple. As of 1986, worshippers and visitors can only visit Bongamsa Temple on Buddha’s Birthday.

In total, Bongamsa Temple is home to seven hermitages that include Dongam Hermitage, Hyuhyuam Hermitage, Baekundae Hermitage, Baengnyeonam Hermitage, Hwanjeokdae Hermitage, Wolbongtogul Hermitage, and Yongchuam Hermitage.

In total, Bongamsa Temple is home to one National Treasure and seven additional Korean Treasures. The National Treasure is the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple.”

Temple Layout

From the entry of the temple grounds, you’ll make your way up the temple road for about a kilometre next to a meandering stream and Mt. Huiyangsan off in the distance. Eventually you’ll come to a fork in the road. To the left, and on the other side of the stream, you’ll find the temple Iljumun Gate. It’s unknown when this entry gate was first built; however, it’s assumed to have been rebuilt some time in the 18th century. It’s the second oldest structure at the temple after the Geukrak-jeon Hall, which is presumed to have been built in the middle of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). At the base of the structure are wooden panels, leading up to support beams that bookend the central pillar. The exterior is adorned with dancheong colours, and the Iljumun Gate is Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Heritage Material # 591.

Retracing your steps, and now on the north side of the stream, you’ll find a collection of buildings that include the Wonno-seonwon, as well as a wooden pavilion that houses the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jeongjin at Bongamsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #172. This stele is dedicated to the monk Jeongjin (878-956 A.D.). It was first erected in 965 A.D. Jeongjin was an active monk at the end of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) and the start of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). He would study in Tang China (618–690, 705–907 A.D.) for 25 years before eventually returning to the Korean Peninsula in 924 A.D. Additionally, he was an influential figure on three early Goryeo Dynasty Kings that included King Taejo of Goryeo (r. 918-943 A.D.), King Hyejong of Goryeo (r. 943-945 A.D.), and King Jeongjong of Goryeo (945-949 A.D.). The stele consists of a main body stone, a tortoise-shaped pedestal, and a capstone. Overall, the stele is simple in its overall style.

If you follow the trail to the north of the “Stele of Sanbong-daesa,” you’ll find a collection of additional stele and stupas. The most prominent of these stone artifacts is the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jeongjin at Bongamsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #171. Like the neighbouring stele, this stupa was erected in 965 A.D. to commemorate the monk Jeongjin. The stupa is octagonal in shape, and it consists of a base, a main body, and a capstone. The body of the stone structure is adorned with reliefs of flowers, clouds, dragons, and lotus flower designs. The octagonal body stone is adorned with pillar patterns, while the front face of the stone is engraved with a lock design. Only the lotus bud ornament still remains of the original finial. The stupa imitates the style of the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple” but with less finesse.

Making your way back down the hillside, and towards the large collection of buildings, you’ll first encounter the administrative office at Bongamsa Temple. It’s to the west of this structure, and between a pair of monks’ dorms, that you’ll find the historic Geukrak-jeon Hall. The Geukrak-jeon Hall resembles a pagoda with its two-story structure. However, it’s a single-story structure that’s meant to resemble a pagoda with its four square sides and veranda on all four sides. The exterior walls are adorned with beautiful dancheong colours and murals of lotus flowers and magpies. Entering the Geukrak-jeon Hall, you’ll find a solitary image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) on the main altar. Also of interest inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall is a sign that reads “Eopil-gak,” which means that the shrine hall houses a work handwritten by the king. The Geukrak-jeon Hall is one of the oldest temple shrine halls in Korea, which retains features of early temple architecture. But based upon its location and appearance of the current Geukrak-jeon Hall, it was most likely rebuilt sometime in the mid-to-late Joseon Dynasty. But the base and foundation of the structure are much older, possibly even dating back to the Goryeo Dynasty. Additionally, a ridge-roof tile was inscribed with the lettering of “16th Year of Showa” on it, which suggests that the roof was repaired in 1941 during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45).

To the right of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Sanshin-gak Hall. The exterior of the shaman shrine hall is rather plainly painted in understated dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find a pair of shaman murals. The first to the right is the mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), while the painting to the left is dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Of interest is the teapot design found within the painting dedicated to Dokseong. There are the stormy waves of Samsara overseen by a full moon above the raging waters.

To the left of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, on the other hand, is the massive Daeungbo-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are painted in unique murals. It appears as though they are describing a sutra, perhaps even the Lotus Sutra as a friend suggested. There are also four red paintings of the Four Heavenly Kings on the backside of the main hall, as well. Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a large, well-populated main altar. In the centre rests an image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). This triad is backed by a wonderfully, long wooden relief that’s populated by various Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, and Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). To the left of the main altar is a relief of a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). The interior, just like the exterior, is filled with various murals from what appears to be a sutra. And if you look up at the beams of the structure, you’ll find dragons and Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities).

To the left of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a wooden pavilion that shelters the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple” and the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple.” Of the two, the stele is the National Treasure. The stele was first erected in 924 A.D. to commemorate the founder of Bongamsa Temple, the monk Jijeung (who was also known as Doheon-guksa). The size and style of the stele are indicative of late Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). The stele is divided into three parts: the tortoise-style base, the body stone, and the cloud-designed capstone. The body stone summarizes the history of Buddhism during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). The writing on the stele was composed by Choe Chiwon (857–10th century), who was one of the greatest scholars of that time.

To the right of the stele is the historic “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple.” While not a National Treasure, the stupa is a Korean Treasure. The stupa is divided into three parts: the stylobate, the main body, and a finial. Housed inside the main body stone are the sari (crystalized remains) of the founding monk of Bongamsa Temple, the monk Jijeung. The stupa was first erected in 883 A.D. There are images of clouds, Gareungbinga (Kalavinka), the Four Heavenly Kings, Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities), Bodhisattvas, and a locked door. The roof stone of the structure is octagonal in shape, and it has a two-tiers of rafters. The finial is partly broken, but it retains its overall eloquent design despite the damage. Overall, the stupa is well-balanced and stunning with its reliefs.

To the left of the wooden pavilion that holds this National Treasure and Korean Treasure, you’ll find the Josa-jeon Hall. The Josa-jeon Hall’s exterior walls are adorned with beautiful Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside this hall, you’ll find a large collection of paintings and pictures dedicated to prominent monks that once called Bongamsa Temple home.

In front of the Josa-jeon Hall is the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with murals dedicated to the Nahan, as well as a wintry scene of the temple grounds. Also on either side of the shrine hall’s signboard are two folkish-looking dragons. Stepping inside the shrine hall, you’ll find a large solitary statue of Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy) on the main altar. On the far left wall is an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). And to the rear of this painting, and between the main altar and the mural, you’ll find a class enclosure with a finial. The backside of the main altar contains glass-like miniature statues of the Buddha. And in the back right corner is a shaman mural that contains the most prominent Korean shaman deities like Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), Chilseong (The Seven Stars), and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). The interior is filled with what looks to be the Sinseon (Taoist Immortals).

In front of the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall, and in the western temple courtyard, you’ll find the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda of Bongamsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #169. This three-story stone pagoda, which is typical of Silla design, is believed to have been first erected during the 9th century. What’s most remarkable about this rather traditionally design pagoda is that its finial is fully intact. This is exceedingly rare in a pagoda of this age.

About two to three hundred metres up a wooded trail to the west, you’ll find Baekundae Valley, which is where the “Rock-carved Seated Maitreya Bodhisattva of Bongamsa Temple” is located. The large relief is some nearly 5.4 metres in height and 5.02 metres wide. It was first created by the monk Uicheon in 1663. The image of Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) has a round, slender face with a sharp nose, meditative eyes, and a gentle closed mouth. Together, the image emits an overall sense of tranquility. Atop the image’s head, he wears a crown with floral designs in the centre. The body of Mireuk-bul is clothed in a robe that’s draped over both of its shoulders. Mireuk-bul sits with his legs crossed. In his right hand, he holds a lotus stem, which he supports with his left hand. And between Mireuk-bul’s eyes, you’ll find a jewel that’s meant to represent his mercy shining out onto the world. It’s presumed that this jewel was added in the mid-20th century and there was just a hollow before that. As for the location of the “Rock-carved Seated Maitreya Bodhisattva of Bongamsa Temple,” it’s located in the idyllic Baekundae Valley. It’s an oasis-like location with clusters of giant boulders, cascading rapids, and pools of emerald coloured mountain water. The entire area has a tranquil feeling to it. And if you have a moment to yourself while there, you should definitely enjoy the areas serene sounds and sublime beauty.

How To Get There

By public transportation, it’ll take about an hour and thirty minutes to get to Bongamsa Temple. From the Mungyeong Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #20-1. You’ll need to take this bus for 10 stops, or 21 minutes, until you get to the “Ma-seong – 마성 하차” bus stop. From there, you’ll need to cross the street and catch Bus #32. You’ll then need to take this bus for 26 stops, or 55 minutes, and get off at the “Bongamsa Ipgu, Wonbuk 2ri – 봉암사입구, 원북2 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk north for 640 metres, or 10 minutes, until you get to the front entry gate at Bongamsa Temple.

If you don’t want to spend an hour and a half on two buses with a hike at the end, then you can simply take a taxi from the Mungyeong Intercity Bus Terminal. The taxi ride should take about 28 minutes, over 23 km, and it’ll cost you around 30,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 9/10

Because Bongamsa Temple is open just one day a year to the general public, its off-limits status helps elevate its overall rating. Additionally, the stunning National Treasure, the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple,” is one of the finest examples of a historic stele in Korea, which is joined under the same wooden pavilion by the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple.” In fact, all of the Korean Treasures are stunning as is the location of the temple under the granite peak of Mt. Huiyangsan. The location is tranquil, and highlighted by Baekundae Valley in the western outskirts of the temple grounds. This oasis-like location complemented by the “Rock-carved Seated Maitreya Bodhisattva of Bongamsa Temple,” which is yet another of the seven Korean Treasures at Bongamsa Temple. Additionally, the massive Daeungbo-jeon Hall, the historic Geukrak-jeon Hall, and the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall all deserve your attention, as well. Bongamsa Temple is a wonderful example of how Korean Buddhism blends seamlessly the architecture and artistry with its beautiful surroundings. While busy on Buddha’s Birthday, which is the only day the temple is open to the general public, it’s well-worth the time and effort to see the temple on its annual opening.

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Temple History

Jeokcheonsa Temple is located to the north of Mt. Osan (514.6 m) in southern Cheongdo, Gyeongsangbuk-do. Jeokcheonsa Temple was originally a cave temple first founded by Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) in 664 A.D. The temple was later rebuilt in 828 A.D. by the monk Simji, who was the third son of King Heungdeok of Silla (826-836 A.D.). In 1175, the monk Jinul (1158-1210) rebuilt Jeokcheonsa Temple. Additionally, at the end of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) and the start of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), some five hermitages would be built on the Jeokcheonsa Temple grounds, as well. During the Imjin War (1592-98), the temple would be destroyed by the invading Japanese in 1594. The temple would be rebuilt, yet again, in 1664 and repaired in 1694 led by the monk Taeheo.

At the end of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the temple was used by the Righteous Army. As a result, some of the buildings and the Yosache (monks’ dorms) were destroyed by fire. In 1946, Jeokcheonsa Temple was used to help celebrate the liberation of the Korean Peninsula. The monks at Jeokcheonsa Temple also prayed for the ability of the nation to overcome the difficulties ahead in unifying the country, once again. In 1981, and while repairing the Cheonwangmun Gate, relics such as sari (crystalized remains), sutras, and 23 pieces of cloth, were discovered inside the wooden statues. Additionally, the date of the creation of the Four Heavenly Kings was discovered, as well. These stunning wooden statues were discovered to date back to 1690. And in 1991, the Myeongbu-jeon Hall was built on the temple grounds.

In total, Jeokcheonsa Temple is home to one Korean Treasure. It’s the “Hanging Painting and Flagpole Supports of Jeokcheonsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #1432. The temple is also home to a Natural Monument, which is the 800 year old “Ginkgo Tree of Jeokcheonsa Temple.” Lastly, the temple is home to two Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Properties. They are the aforementioned “Wooden Four Heavenly Kings Seated on Stools,” which is Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Property #153; as well as the Daeung-jeon Hall, which is Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Property #321.

Temple Layout

You first approach the very rural Jeokcheonsa Temple up a long, winding road. In fact, you follow this road for so long that you might think that there isn’t an end to this rural road. When you finally do come to the end of the road, you’ll arrive at the temple parking lot at Jeokcheonsa Temple.

To the left of the gravel parking lot, you’ll find the natural wood exterior of the Cheonwangmun Gate. As you enter the entry gate, you’ll notice four images of the Four Heavenly Kings. They are made from three pieces of wood, and they range in size from 3.4 to 3.8 metres in height. Though they are quite large, they are also well-balanced. They all have stunning red crowns, and they all wear armour. According to written material found on the statues, they are believed to date back to 1690. Rather surprisingly, they are only a Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Property #153 and not a Korean Treasure. And if you look towards the feet of these statues, you’ll notice that they are trampling some pretty scary images of demons underfoot.

Now having passed through the Cheonwangmun Gate, you’ll be greeted on the other side by the rather large Boje-ru Pavilion. The first floor of this structure acts as an entryway into the main temple grounds, while the second story is used for larger dharma talks. You’ll need to slouch down a bit so that you don’t bump your head, while passing through this pavilion.

Climbing the set of stairs that leads up to the temple’s main courtyard, you’ll be greeted by a collection of shrine halls and buildings. To your immediate left is the temple’s understated Jong-ru Pavilion. Housed inside this open-concept bell pavilion are the four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments. They include a beautifully polished bronze bell that’s joined by an equally exquisite blue mokeo (wooden fish drum) and an unpan (cloud plate drum), as well as a freshly painted beopgo (dharma drum). Neighbouring the Jong-ru Pavilion is a rather long Myeongbu-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in understated dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, you’ll find a statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) on the main altar joined by statues of the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). And to your immediate right, on the other hand, are a row of structures that include the Yosache (monks’ dorms), the temple’s kitchen, and the administrative office.

Slightly to the right, and straight ahead, is the Daeung-jeon Hall at Jeokcheonsa Temple. The exterior walls of the main hall are adorned with some images of a white Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion), the Bodhidharma, as well as a collection of the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). And flanking this image on either side are statues dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Buddha of Medicine, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise), as well as Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). It should be noted, however, that this main hall has been locked on me before, so it might not be open when you visit. This Daeung-jeon Hall was built in the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), and it’s Gyeongsangbuk-do Tangible Cultural Property #321.

To the left and right rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall are two smaller sized shrine halls. The shrine hall to the left rear is the Yeongsan-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the Yeongsan-jeon Hall are adorned in some beautiful landscape paintings. Housed inside this shrine hall are sixteen all-white stone images of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha), who are joined by a triad of white statues on the main altar, as well. Seated in the centre of this triad is Seokgamoni-bul, who is joined by golden, crowned images of Yeondeung-bul (The Past Buddha) and Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha).

And to the right rear of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and joined by some more monks’ dorms, is the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls to this shaman shrine hall are adorned in floral and landscape paintings. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find a set of paintings dedicated to the three most popular shaman deities in Korea. As you first enter, you’ll be greeted by a rather strange older image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). This rather peculiar image is fronted by a statue of the shaman deity. Just to the right of Sanshin hangs an equally older painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). And rather atypically, the oldest-looking painting of the set of three, Chilseong (The Seven Stars), hangs on the far right wall. I say atypically because the mural of Chilseong, who represents the heavens, usually hangs in the centre of the set of three.

How To Get There

Unfortunately, there’s no public transportation that goes directly to Jeokcheonsa Temple from the city of Cheongdo; instead, you’ll need to take a taxi from the Cheongdo Intercity Bus Terminal to get out to the temple. The ride should take you about 15 minutes, and it’ll set you back about 10,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 6/10

For such a virtually unknown temple, Jeokcheonsa Temple has a lot for visitors to see starting with the Cheonwangmun Gate and the historic Four Heavenly King statues housed inside it. Additionally, you can enjoy the exterior wall paintings of the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the all-white statues inside the Yeongsan-jeon Hall and the atypical paintings inside the Samseong-gak Hall. There seems to be a little bit of something for everyone at Jeokcheonsa Temple; the only difficulty seems to be getting there.