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2011: Year of the Family

My merry Christmas morning started off in the Wondang markets of Nakseongdae. While my 5-months-heavy wife prepared our dwellings for guests, I set off for fresh fruits and vegetables, feeling all of the ancestral vibe that comes with undertaking a hunter-gatherer task. Along the way I stopped by a small sundae house for breakfast.

Korean sundae could best be described as sausage from the Land of Mordor. It has dubious origins and looks menacing. But like young Frodo, I can't help but be drawn back for more. 

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Accompanying the orcish sausage of death, at one's option, is the presence of offal. I could waffle on and on about offal, but I'll refrain. Let's just say I'm a guilty fan.

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Would you like some instant coffee with your offal? Yes please!

This friendly ajumma offered me some free instant coffee, for the frosty weather. She even ceremoniously stirred it the true Korean way. That is, by using the instant coffee packet as a stirrer rather than a spoon. Particularly uncouth ajosshi these days also use their index finger.

But a real man's man, an Australian man, deals not with these petty triflings. Clumps in beverages are nothing to worry about, unless they're a stonefish or a trapdoor spider.

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Christmas came and went, with laughter, merriment and good cheer. Good friends came over and we relaxed enjoyably. Fortunately I have a clear memory of the day, because I failed to take any photos of the event. Many a Christmas past has been marked with amnesia the next day, to be further confounded by inexplicable photos of blurry smiling teeth on one's camera.
What we need is a morning-after pill that brings your memory back. In such events, the Korean's say "Pillum ggeungyeosseo" (Film's gone!)

The photo above is a portion of the plentiful leftovers that we managed to survive on until New Year's Eve. It was a fine week of cake, sour cream, smoked cheese and wine.

For breakfast.

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For those who haven't seen the new West Wing of Seoul Station, there's apparently a connection straight to the airport. I don't know if it's really the west wing, and I don't know if it really connects to the airport. But I think it's west, and it says it goes to the airport, so that's probably a definitive 'maybe.'

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We went to Busan for the new year, to see Heather's tribe. Upon alighting from Busan station, I soon realised that they (the Korean race) had upgraded this station too. Now they have quite a snazzy room where commuters can dwell and marvel at the intricate latticework supporting the roof. It seems that every time you turn around in Korea, something has been knocked down, and something else has been built. 
But even though I was a long term resident of Busan for 2 years, the city mayor failed to inform me of these plans prior. With a gruff sigh, I hauled our luggage to the nearest bus stop, thinking "This is No country for old men (like myself)."

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Who's this little girl? That's Heather's niece, Ji-Woo, who is now two years old. The last time we saw her, she was still in the gelatinous stage, unable to maintain uprightedness without adult arms of support. But times, they are a-changing. Now Ji-Woo is running around and expressing various advanced human emotions like 'pleased' and 'unapproving.'

When she first came into her grandparents room, she quickly and correctly identified me as a non-usual person of acquaintance. Her response was to stand quietly and stare at me from a safe distance of approximately two metres, blankly observing and forming an assessment of this new creature in the living room. Minutes passed. Meanwhile the elder members of the Korean tribe attempting to sooth her by saying "That's Uncle Lee, Ji-Woo. Say hello to Uncle Lee, Ji-Woo."

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Perhaps we can soften her up with a little paper plane frivolity, we thought. The first paper plane, although aerodynamically challenged, was a huge hit. Before long, paper planes were being folded on an industrial scale, as we attempted to capitalise on this newfound area of mutual interest.

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Those efforts resulted in Ji-Woo reducing our personal safety-distance gap to a single metre. 

I was honoured. Although she can only say 'Omma,' 'unni' and various kinds of gurgles, her reduction of the safety gap was a clear message that I was well on my way to being classified as a familiar person. Furthermore, she was happy to observe me without the safety of halmoni by her side.

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Next we entertained Ji-Ye, her older sister. Ji-Ye is kiddologically more advanced than Ji-Woo. That's probably not a real word, but this is an unusual area of study for someone like me.

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Ji-Ye was much easier to break the ice with, because she remembered me. My Toastmasters skills were particularly handy though. It wasn't long before she had drawn a picture, with me in it. I'm apparently representable by a large squashed spider on the driver's side window.

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What the...? Okay, so I was lining up for another shot of Ji-Ye's drawing when up popped little Ji-Woo, happily accelerating into new levels of closeness. She'd closed the distance gap to within bobo-distance. 

I felt like I'd received a promotion. 

That particular moment reminded me of the gatecrasher squirrel.

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With Ji-Woo granting me official diplomatic recognition, I know longer became the focus of reserved wariness, and she soon turned her attention to Heather's bulging belly. Ji-Woo can understand some simple nouns like 'grandma' and 'baby.'
When Heather pointed at her stomach and said 'baby,' little Ji-Woo's eyes lit up in some kind of profound acknowledgment. Then she reached out and put her hand on Heather's stomach and kept it there. It was truly fascinating to watch.

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Between gurgles and squeals, we socialised endlessly. While Ji-Ye's primary focus was drawing pictures of family members in various modes of transport, Ji-Woo was more interested in picking things up and staring at us, as if for some kind of explanation. She also enjoyed pointing at things, to check that we had seen them. 

"Yes, it's a flower. It's a pretty flower."

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This photo of Heather and her mother was taken by Ji-Ye. Pretty good for a seven-year-old.

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The next morning I was promoted to a fully fledged member of the tribe, now recognised by all those of pre-school age and lower. I took my new role seriously and did my best to keep them entertained and amused. In the photo above, we're conducting paper-puppet theatre using Ji-Ye's toes. I put together most of the dialogue, which consisted almost entirely of greetings. Meaningful dialogue is of secondary importance to enthusiasm, if you have an audience that's easy to amuse.
This past weekend I realised what a precious thing it is to have a good family. My older sister, Jo, now has a baby daughter, and my younger sister Sue has just given birth to a son. The next generation in our family are now emerging, and I'm looking forward to an exciting year of growth in many ways.

In Search of Denisova Woman

This story continues to amaze me. Who needs science fiction when there’s alternate lines of human evolution to contemplate! So, a little more about the significance of that finger bone and molar found in the Denisova cave.

This discovery is extraordinary on many levels.

Perhaps the most important is that one small group of modern humans who live far away from Siberia—the Melanesian islanders of the Pacific Ocean—have picked up a block of genes from the newly discovered species on their (or, rather, their ancestors’) travels. Genetic evidence of the Melanesians’ journey from the African cradle of Homo sapiens, which started (like that of all non-African people) about 60,000 years ago when a band of adventurers crossed the straits of Bab el Mandeb, from modern Djibouti to modern Yemen, suggests they then continued along the south coast of Asia, never going far inland. For the necessary interbreeding to have happened, Dr Paabo’s new species would thus have to have been spread over a vast area of Asia. Yet it has left no previously identified traces.

To be fair, Asia has not, so far, been a rich source of human fossils—unlike Africa, where many sites in the east and the south have yielded ancestral humans, and Europe, where Neanderthals have been found by the hundred. Good Asian fossils come only from China (Peking Man, a type of Homo erectus) and Indonesia (Java Man, another erectus, and Homo floresiensis, the much-maligned “hobbit” of the island of Flores). Stone tools abound, but human bones from other Asian sites are almost as rare as hens’ teeth. The few that do exist are now, of course, the subject of intense scrutiny and much debate about whether they, too, belong to the new species.

What this discovery ought to provide, then, is the impetus to start looking much harder for human fossils in Asia. The new species, which has yet to be named, clearly lived all over the place. If, despite that, it remained hidden until now, who knows what other species of human might also be out there?

Do you hear that, grad students!? Let’s get digging!

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Filed under: Academia, East Asia, Science Tagged: denisova cve, human evolution, melanesians

Korean Unification Only Looks Tidy In Print

The Economist applies the example of German unification to the Koreas‘ Sisyphean task. Drawing on the two courses open to it, massive handouts or immigration, the weekly recommends Seoul split the pain and the difference.

If the Koreas reunified, the government would face a stark choice. It could try to fill the gap in living standards between North and South, through handouts, public investment and subsidies. Or it could brace itself for heavy migration, as poor Northerners moved to the South in search of higher wages.

Germany leaned towards the first option. East German Ostmark wages were converted into West German D-marks at a rate of one to one, then raised by union pressure closer to Western levels. This allayed fears that migrant workers would flood into the West, or that capital would flood out. But it also deterred private investment in the East—except for heavily subsidised property speculation which ultimately failed—and priced many of its workers out of the market.

Michael Funke of Hamburg University and Holger Strulik of the Leibniz University in Hanover are two of the many economists who have studied Germany’s reunification. In 2005 they used the same framework to model the Korean case. Their calculations (which they describe as “rigorous speculation”) illustrate the scale of the problem. To equalise the standard of living in both parts of the country would initially cost over half of the South’s tax revenues. The government could reduce the fiscal burden to 30% of revenues, but only at the cost of receiving 8m migrants, the two economists estimate.

The government could, of course, spread the cost over time by borrowing abroad: there is no reason why today’s Koreans should pay the full cost of reunifying their country. And in principle, North Korea’s productivity might catch up with the South’s quite rapidly. Because capital is scarce in the North, returns should in theory be high. Investors will be drawn to its promising location, its raw materials and its workers, who are young, reasonably well educated and cheap. (Many South Korean and Chinese firms have already taken the plunge. Hyundai Asan and Korea Land Corporation, for example, run the Kaesong Industrial Complex a few miles inside the North. It hosts 116 factories, employing 40,000 North Koreans, producing over $20m-worth of textiles, chemicals, electronics and other goods a month.)

50%? 30%? Am I the only one who predicts riots in Seoul’s streets? I can foresee a future where Kaeseong figures a bit higher, if only to hide the problem form the South Korean public. And, borrowing from foreigners to finance Korea’s sacred mission? It’ll never happen.

Another ironic conclusion from the article is, that, based on refugee testimony, North Koreans already rely heavily on illicit markets to make ends meet.

Despite North Korea’s obstinate commitment to central planning, the market is growing like a vine in the cracks of the socialist edifice. In their new book, “Witness to Transformation”, Stephan Haggard and Marcus Noland document this market reform “from below”, drawing on surveys of refugees in South Korea and China. They find that 62% of the refugees in China had relied on the market as their primary source of food; only 3% relied on the state. And almost 70% of the refugees said they got more than half of their income from some form of private enterprise, such as selling crops or repairing bikes.

The shocker for a center-right newspaper is, that The Economist recommends Pyongyang keep central planning and reintroduce its public distribution system. Unification will take an ideological suspension of belief on all sides, and no one will be immune from pain. This is undoubtedly why my wife and her family vehemently oppose unification. I can’t blame them. I can foresee nothing but a hash of ad hoc policies, crises, and public outrage after a hangover caused by unrealistic expectations.

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Filed under: Business/Economy, Korea, Subscriptions Tagged: dprk, germany, rok, unification

Worrying Trends Point to Destabilization in NK

[Caption]As discreet developments, the easing of travel restrictions and troop desertions are remarkable, even a moment to cheer; together they start to worry.

Firstly, Andrei Lankpv narrates the slow erosion of North Korea’s restrictive travel visa system.

Nowadays, the authorities issue travel permits for trips lasting a week or two. Often they can be bribed to speed up the process, and in such a case the permits are produced almost immediately. The amount of bribe varies, depending on the destination: from some $10 for Pyongyang to merely $2 to $3 for a humble countryside destination. Money seems to be paid usually in exchange for speed.

There is something even more remarkable: In recent years North Korean authorities began to issue certificates which allow its bearer to travel to China, crossing the border legally. The procedure is time-consuming, taking about six months. As usual, it requires special security checks by the authorities. However, the outcome of such procedures is not pre-ordained, so generous payments are helpful to steer officials in the right direction. In this case, the bribes are much larger, up to $100 (as opposed to the usual $50). For the average Korean this is a large amount of money, but a majority of the applicants are engaged in the cross-border shuttle activity, and for them $100 is not an exorbitant sum.

Small victories for liberty, yes, but couldn’t such easing also facilitate ever greater demands for travel? Once North Koreans get used to moving around, will borders stop them?

And then, there’s the indications of troop desertions in the North Korean military.

With no glue holding the starving and grumbling people together in the army, the North Korean army is showing more frequent signs of a meltdown. In the RFA article, military officials said the reported number of deserters is severely under-estimated. If the number of deserters is reported as 10 people, the actual number is closer to 50. (It was unclear from the article, whether the number 10 and 50 refers to the proportion of deserters in the army). Below the news article, some net users, such as Choi Jae-hyuk,[ko] pointed out that if only around 10 percent have fled, it can be understood, but if the movement involves 50-60 percent of members, it is a clear sign of change.

Not to be a spoilsport, but this is not how I want regime change n North Korea to proceed. I don’t want the country just to unravel without a hint of international contingency planning. Whereas lawless deserters are just a bad sign, workers with more room to roam might be a boon for the national economy that national planners could have to acknowledge with reforms. Still, both these developments are the sort of signs that snowball into crises, not happy endings.

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Filed under: Business/Economy, Korea, Military Tagged: andrei lankov, dprk, north korea, ppstaday2011

Spent New Years Eve at the Busan Aquarium with my girls, Jena...













Spent New Years Eve at the Busan Aquarium with my girls, Jena and Alix. Such a nice way to spend my last weekday of vacation. We saw a bunch of sea creatures, including a broken shark. (Seriously, what was wrong with that shark??)

I’m freezing here in Busan, in the low thirties. I feel like each day gets colder! Not sure if I can handle this for the next several months. Brrr.

About 

Hi, I'm Stacy. I'm from Portland, Oregon, USA, and am currently living in Busan, South Korea. Check me out on: Tumblr, Twitter, Instagram, Lastfm, and Flickr.

 

Spent New Years Eve at the Busan Aquarium with my girls, Jena...













Spent New Years Eve at the Busan Aquarium with my girls, Jena and Alix. Such a nice way to spend my last weekday of vacation. We saw a bunch of sea creatures, including a broken shark. (Seriously, what was wrong with that shark??)

I’m freezing here in Busan, in the low thirties. I feel like each day gets colder! Not sure if I can handle this for the next several months. Brrr.

Life in South Korea: Being Vegetarian

People were always surprised to find out that I am Vegetarian. They thought it must be so difficult to be in Korea. I have been Vegetarian for almost twenty years, so I am used to having less dining options. There are some great vegetarian options in Korea.

This Thursday first new video!

Cheers,

Jeff

Annoying Things About Korea #5: Wi-Fi Hotspots in Korea....Ole, Ole, Ole, ALLEH (updated)

Connecting to Wi-Fi Hotspots is Difficult and It's (Largely) Alleh's Fault

This could also belong on the What Foreigners Need to Understand About Korea (and Koreans) page.  Korea is the well-known to be the most widely internet-connected country in the world.  Tell that to a visitor from another country.  There are plenty of places that Wi-Fi is available, BUT the fact is that many, many, many places are controlled by Korea Telecom's Alleh.  You need to be a member of Alleh in order to connect to Wi-Fi at these hotspots.  The problem with becoming a member?  You need a national identification number that can be validated by software.  And there begins the problem.

Even if you have a visa, and you have a national identification number, the identification number isn't recognized by the software.  This is a problem on many Korean websites, PC rooms, etc when you want to connect to the internet.  For example, you can join a PC room with a user ID and password and get a 10% discount, but it requires your national identification number (an ID also calculates the exact usage time, rather than rounding up to the nearest hour if you have no ID).  There is an algorithm embedded in the number itself, and software installed around Korea also recognizes the pattern.  However, foreigners that have visas have a national identification number which has a different algorithm, and as a result, if you try to enter your number at a PC room, then it usually doesn't work.

This is changing to some extent in Korea.  GMarket, the very popular website, has a special place for foreign buyers, who can establish an ID correctly.  It is a small pain, but it is do-able.

Best idea?  Meet a Korean-native friend, and use his/her Olleh ID.  Don't do anything illegal, and it will be fine, if you are just trying to surf the web.  Other ideas?  Avoid going to the coffee shops that use Alleh entirely.  I have found that Caffe Pascucci usually has publicly available Wi-Fi.  In any case, the difficulty in signing onto Wi-Fi hotspots in Korea is highly annoying to foreigners, resident or visiting.

Update:  I met with a friend in Seoul, and acknowledged the same thing to me.  Connecting to wi-fi is also difficult to him, because he doesn't belong to KT. One notable exception exists:  Incheon International Airport, thankfully, has free wi-fi, while many U.S. airports have wi-fi but you need to pay by the day or subscribe to network, called Boingo, that exists at many airports.


Holidays & Food

Might be the very reason, the holidays are so special. We gather, we eat, we laugh, and we eat some more.

Christmas Eve, Eric made dinner for Matt & I. We had salmon, pesto pasta, broccoli, mashed potatoes, bruschetta, salad, and lots of wine and whiskey.I was shown all the youtube videos that I had apparently been missing out on, and we attempted to make a list of all the 50 states, with Matt being the only one who succeeded!

Cheese pizza may seem like no special treat. But in Korea, where pizza often has sweet potato and corn on it, a simple cheesy Costco pizza, brings so much delight!

Christmas at Rhylon’s was done potluck style. I made bean dip, other foods included stuffed mushrooms, sausage and cheese, apple pie, sushi, some Korean snacks, cookies, cake, fruit salad. Oh my!

I fear that maybe we don’t know when to stop, when it comes to food.

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