The History and Design of the Image

The “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Hwangsang-dong” is located in northeastern Gumi, Gyeongsangbuk-do hidden behind a row of factory buildings. These factories shield people from being able to see this high relief image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) from the road.

It’s presumed that this high relief carving of a standing Amita-bul was first made around the turn of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) and Goryeo (918-1392) periods in the 10th century. The relief is carved on the southeastern surface of a huge rock cliff. The image measures an impressive 7.3 metres in height. In addition to both its age and height, the high relief image is Korean Treasure #1122.

According to a legend, a general was being chased by the enemy, but his life was saved by a woman who helped him hide behind a large rock. Later, the general considered this woman to be a Buddha, so he had an image of Amita-bul carved onto this rock. This would become the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Hwangsang-dong.”

As for the design of the high relief image, Amita-bul has a large protruding bump on its head. This is meant to symbolize his wisdom. The three creases around his neck represent the “three destinies” of affliction, actions, and suffering. His eyes are gently closed. It also has a thin nose and small lips. Both of its ears are elongated. The robe of Amita-bul hangs lightly over the arms. The hands are raised to its chest, and the statue has the left hand with the palm turned inward and the right hand has its palm turned outward. A flat stone was placed atop the rock cliff to serve as a protective canopy for the statue.

How To Get There

The simplest way to get to the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Hwangsang-dong” from the Gumi Intercity Bus Terminal is to take a taxi. The ride should take about 15 minutes, over 13 km, and it’ll cost you 13,000 won (one way).

Otherwise, you can take Bus #900 from the Gumi Intercity Bus Terminal. You’ll need to take this bus for 10 minutes and get off at the “금오공대입구 – Geumo Gonddae-ipgu” bus stop. From this bus stop, you can catch either Bus #90 or Bus #93. You’ll need to take this bus for 11 stops, or 12 minutes, and get off at the “델코전지 하차 – Delko Jeonji” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head north for about 800 minutes, or 13 minutes, and look for the “미애사 – Miaesa Temple” sign. The “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Hwangsang-dong” is to the left rear of a large factory building.

Overall Rating: 4/10

There’s a modern temple next to the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Hwangsang-dong” named Miaesa Temple. But rather obviously, the main highlight in the area is the high relief image of Amita-bul. The large 7.3 metre tall image is impressive in both its size and elegant design. When visiting this image of Amita-bul, take your time to take it all in. This image is a masterful representation of Unified Silla/Goryeo design.

Temple History

Yeonmisa Temple, which means “Swallow Tail Temple” in English, is located in northern Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. It’s believed that the temple was first founded in 634 A.D. by the monk Myeongdeok and then rebuilt twice. After its founding, very little is known about the temple’s history. During the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the area that Yeonmisa Temple is located was a popular place for officials traveling in the area between provinces. This area is now known as Jebiwon.

During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the temple fell into disrepair. It was only later, and during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45), that Yeonmisa Temple was rebuilt in 1918. The temple was rebuilt on the former site of Yeonmisa Temple. And it was further restored in both 1943 and 1947. In 1978, the Daeung-jeon Hall was extended and the temple paintings were added in 1986. Now the temple is run by nuns.

Yeonmisa Temple is also home to the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong,” which is Korean Treasure #115. According to a legend, the Buddha carving was commissioned by a famous mason. However, his student was more skilled. So one day, while the student was working on the relief, the teacher removed the ladder. Then the master turned into a swallow and flew away up into the sky. This is one source of the temple’s name. Another legend has it that the Yosache (monks’ dorms) was located to the rear of the relief, which made it look like a swallow’s tail.

Temple Layout

As you approach the temple grounds, you’ll notice that there are a collection of buildings at Yeonmisa Temple. In the centre of these buildings is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the Daeung-jeon Hall are adorned with the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Additionally, the front floral latticework is stunning. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, and resting on the main altar, are a triad of statues centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is joined on either side by statues of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). To the right of this triad is an orangish painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). And to the left of the main altar are two additional murals. One of these paintings is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars), while the other is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall are a collection of buildings that include the nuns’ dorms, administrative offices, and the temple parking lot. But it’s to the left of the main hall, and down a short path, that you’ll find the main highlight at the temple: the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong.” Along the way, there are several smaller statues of various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, as well as a coin collecting statue of a jovial Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag).

Finally arriving at the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong,” which is also known as the “Jebiwon-seokbul,” you’ll find yourself looking up at the 12.38 metre tall image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). The image was created in two parts. This was a common method done during the Goryeo Dynasty. The head of Amita-bul was first sculpted and then attached to the image carved on the rock wall. The back of the head of the statue was completely destroyed; however, the front of the head was left intact. The protruding part on top of the Buddha’s head, which symbolizes supreme wisdom, is relatively high. It has long eyes and thick lips that are serenely smiling. Despite its large size and large body, the statue is well-balanced.

The image of Amita-bul stands on a lotus pedestal. There are folds in the robe, and it covers both of the shoulders to the statue of Amita-bul. The index fingers and middle fingers of each hand are placed together. The left hand is placed on its chests, while the right hand is situated on the stomach. There is still a little bit of orange paint left on the head, which indicates that the statue used to be painted (at least in part). It’s believed that the image was carved sometime in the 11th century. This style of large Buddha statues was a dominant style of folk Buddha statues created during the Goryeo Dynasty.

You can get a better idea of the full size of the statue, if you stand in the nearby park at some distance. It’s also at the base of the rock that somewhat obscures the full image of the statue that you can read an inscription that reads “이미타불” (Amita-bul).

How To Get There

To get to Yeonmisa Temple from the Andong Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #56. After 13 stops, or 22 minutes, you’ll need to get off at the “이천동 석불상하차 – Icheon-dong Seokbulsang” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk about 200 metres, or 5 minutes, to get to the temple grounds.

You can take a bus, or you can simply take a taxi from the Andong Intercity Bus Terminal to get to Yeonmisa Temple. The ride should take about 12 minutes and cost about 9,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 6/10

By far, the main highlight at Yeonmisa Temple is the impressive “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong.” Standing over 12 metres in height, comprised of two pieces, and dating back to the Goryeo Dynasty, it’s no wonder that this image of Amita-bul is the central highlight to any visit to Yeonmisa Temple. Other things to keep a look out for is the artwork around the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the main hall and the floral latticework outside the main hall.

Hermitage History

Cheonjaam Hermitage, which is located on the Songgwangsa Temple grounds in western Suncheon, Jeollanam-do, is situated near the peak of Mt. Cheonjaamsan (757.4 m) to the southwest. It’s believed that the hermitage was first established by Damdang-guksa (1226-1293), who was the ninth of sixteen “guksa” (national preceptors) from Songgwangsa Temple. Additionally, he was a prince of Goryeo (918-1392).

After its founding, the monk Seolmuk reconstructed the hermitage in 1633. Later, it would be rebuilt, once more, this time by the monk Jiwon in 1730. In 1740, the Manse-ru Pavilion was built. In 1882, the Chilseong-gak Hall was built. And in 1939, the Geumdang Hall was built. Construction on the hermitage grounds continues to the present day.

Cheonjaam Hermitage is home to one Natural Monument. It’s the 800 year old “Pair of Chinese Junipers at Cheonjaam Hermitage of Songgwangsa Temple.” They are Natural Monument #88.

Hermitage Layout

You first approach Cheonjaam Hermitage up a long, winding mountain road. Part of this mountain road has been repaved, and other parts of the mountain road need to be repaved. Nearing the hermitage grounds, you’ll notice the Samseong-gak Hall on the hillside. To gain access to this shaman shrine hall, you’ll need to pass by the monks’ dorms to your right, as you enter the main hermitage courtyard at Cheonjaam Hermitage.

Straight ahead of you is the Eungjin-jeon Hall that’s joined to the left by the 800 year old Chinese junipers. Typically, Chinese junipers grow on Ulleung-do Island, in central Korea, and parts of Japan. These juniper trees have a strong scent that’s used in making incense. These pair of Chinese juniper trees are about twelve metres in height and are 4.1 metres and 3.3 metres, respectively, around. According to legend, these junipers grew from the walking sticks of Bojo-guksa (1158–1210) and Damdang-guksa (1226-1293). Purportedly, both monks brought these walking sticks back from China and stuck them into the ground at the hermitage. Additionally, Damdang-guksa was a disciple of Bojo-guksa. As a result, it’s said that these trees look like one is bowing down to the other much like a student would towards his teacher. It’s also said that anyone that touches these trees will go to heaven. The pair of Chinese juniper trees are stunning. And now, there is a smaller sized modern statue of Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) that rests at the base of the 800 year old juniper trees.

To the right of the ancient trees is the Eungjin-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to this shrine hall are adorned with images of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom), Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power), Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife), and Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Stepping inside the Eungjin-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This triad rests underneath a large, red canopy. And on either side of the main altar, you’ll find sixteen Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) statues. These sixteen statues are then backed by murals of the Nahan, as well. And hanging on the far right wall is a painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). This painting is then fronted by a newer-looking statue of the Lonely Saint.

To the rear of the Eungjin-jeon Hall, and over a newly constructed stone bridge, you’ll find the aforementioned Samseong-gak Hall. However, while the signboard above the shaman shrine hall details the shrine hall as a Samseong-gak Hall, it’s functionally a Sanshin-gak Hall. Typically, a Samseong-gak Hall would be occupied by three shaman deities that are typically Chilseong (The Seven Stars), Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). However, this shaman shrine hall is only occupied by a painting of Sanshin. This painting is then fronted by two statues. The central image is that of Sanshin, while the statue to the left is that of Yongwang (The Dragon King).

To the left of both the historic Chinese juniper trees and the Eungjin-jeon Hall, you’ll find the largest building at Cheonjaam Hermitage. This is the structure that houses both the administrative offices at the hermitage, as well as the main hall, the Beopdang Hall. Stepping inside the Beopdang Hall, you’ll find an understated triad of statues underneath an equally understated all-natural wood canopy. The central image of the triad is dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul, who is joined on either side by statues dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal and Jijang-bosal. To the left of the main altar is a painting dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal, while to the right is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

Out in front of the Beopdang Hall is what looks to be the Manse-ru Pavilion. However, there was construction being done at the hermitage when I visited, so this structure was closed-off to the general public. Finally, and to the left of the Beopdang Hall, you’ll find a small collection of buildings that include the kitchen facilities at the hermitage.

How To Get There

There is no easy way to get to this rather remote hermitage. Outside of owning your own mode of transportation, the only other realistic way of getting to Cheonjaam Hermitage is by taxi. From the Suncheon Intercity Bus Terminal, it’ll take 45 minutes, over 46 km, and it’ll cost you around 50,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 5/10

Cheonjaam Hermitage is situated beautifully in Jogyesan Provincial Park. In addition to where it’s located, the hermitage has a pair of stunning 800 year old Chinese junipers. These might be the oldest trees that I’ve seen in my life. Also, you can enjoy the interior of the Eungjin-jeon Hall, as well as the interior of the Beopdang Hall. But the two main highlights at the hermitage are its location and its trees.