어쨌든 and 아무튼 both translate as "anyway," and either can be used most of the time. However, they're not the same in every situation. There are also a few other words that translate as "anyway" that I explain in this video, such as 하여튼 and others.
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Seongwangsa Temple is located in Sasang-gu, Busan in the western foothills of Mt. Baekyangsan (641.3 m). It’s unclear as to when the temple was first built, but it’s one of the 973 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea. Also, it’s a temple that belongs to the Beophwa-jong Buddhist Order. Recently, Seongwangsa Temple changed its name from Yaksasa Temple to Seongwangsa Temple to differentiate it from the neighbouring Yaksuam Hermitage. In February, 2011, Seongwangsa Temple had a ceremony to enshrine the large Maae Buddha at the top of the temple grounds.
Temple Layout
You first make your way up a pretty treacherous road to get to Seongwangsa Temple. Eventually arriving in the temple parking lot, you’ll be welcomed by a pair of standing stone statues of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). Continuing up the road and past a stone relief of a tiger, you’ll notice a large collection of buildings including the main hall: the administrative office, the monks’ dorms, and the main hall. The three buildings are clumped together into one indiscernible mass.
The main hall at Seongwangsa Temple is the Yonghwa-jeon Hall, which plays to the temple’s focus on Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). The exterior walls to the Yonghwa-jeon Hall are a combination of murals that include the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) and the Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Stepping inside the Yonghwa-jeon Hall, you’ll notice a main altar triad centred by Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). This central image is joined on either side by images of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). Fronting this main altar triad on either side are a pair of diminutive wooden pagodas all of which are situated under a large, elaborate datjib (canopy). To the right of the main altar is a golden image dedicated to a multi-armed and headed Gwanseeum-bosal. This golden painting is fronted by a statue of the Bodhisattva of Compassion, as well. And hanging on the far right wall is an elaborate, golden Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). To the left of the main altar, on the other hand, is a green-haired statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And this seated image is backed by a stunning, golden mural dedicated to both Jijang-bosal and the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld). There’s also a collection of murals of monks that are prominent in the Beophwa-jong Buddhist Order including the Bodhidharma.
To the left of the Yonghwa-jeon Hall, and a bit hidden, is the entryway that leads up to the shaman shrine halls at Seongwangsa Temple. The first of these shaman shrine halls is the Sanshin-gak Hall. Housed inside the Sanshin-gak Hall is one of the most impressive modern murals dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). In total, there are twelve different images of Sanshin. And of these twelve, four are female Sanshin. Hanging on the far left wall is an additional image of a solitary Sanshin. I was told that there were so many Sanshin inside the Sanshin-gak Hall because the energy from the mountain, Mt. Baekyangsan, is so powerful.
Near this Sanshin-gak Hall is the Chilseong/Dokseong-gak Hall. The image of Chilseong (The Seven Stars) is rather traditional in design, while the image of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) is painted directly onto the face of the mountain. Pretty sure I haven’t seen that before.
To the left of these two shaman shrine halls, and if you continue up the mountain trail, you’ll find an outdoor shrine dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). A stone statue of Yongwang sits inside an alcove of stones.
Behind the Yonghwa-jeon Hall, on the other hand, is the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to this temple shrine hall are painted in simple dancheong colours. Looking inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, you’ll find thirty-three different statues dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). This includes a beautiful, golden image of the Bodhisattva of Compassion on the main altar.
Up a flight of stairs, and to the left, you’ll find the newly constructed Maae Buddha. The large central image that was constructed in 2011 is dedicated to Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). To the right is an image of Gwanseeum-bosal. And to the left, you’ll find a smaller image dedicated to Sanshin. It’s also from these heights that you’ll get great views of both the Nakdong River and Gimhae both situated to the west.
How To Get There
The easiest way to get to Seongwangsa Temple is to take a taxi from the Modeok Subway Station, stop #229, on the second line. The taxi ride should take about 5 minutes and cost you around 5,000 won (one way).
But if you’d rather walk, you can take exit #2 at the Modeok Subway Station and head east towards Mt. Baekyangsan. Eventually, you’ll see the Daedeok Girls High School – 대덕여자고학교. To the south of this high school, you should be able to see the signs leading up to Seongwangsa Temple. In total, the walk should take about 25 minutes over 1.2 km some of which is uphill.
Overall Rating: 6.5/10
Seongwangsa Temple seems a bit cluttered. But if you have the patience, there’s a lot to see at this unknown temple including the twelve images of Sanshin inside the Sanshin-gak Hall. In addition to the main highlight, the Sanshin Taenghwa, you can also enjoy the golden interior of the Yonghwa-jeon Hall and the numerous stone statues at Seongwangsa Temple including the newly made relief of Mireuk-bul.
Daeyulsa Temple is a modern temple that’s located near farmer’s fields in southern Gunwi, Gyeongsangbuk-do. Daeyulsa Temple is located to the north of Mt. Palgongsan (1,192.3 m). During Daeyulsa Temple’s initial construction in 1972, the “Stone Standing Buddha in Daeyul-ri, Gunwi” was discovered.
The only Korean Treasure located at the compact temple grounds at Daeyulsa Temple is the “Stone Standing Buddha in Daeyul-ri, Gunwi,” which is Korean Treasure #988. This standing image of the Buddha dates back to Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). It’s believed that there used to a large Buddhist temple in Daeyul-ri Village in Gunwi that housed the “Stone Standing Buddha in Daeyul-ri, Gunwi.”
Temple Layout
Daeyulsa Temple is a little known temple in the backstreets of a village near farmer’s fields. The first time I visited the temple, I passed right by it. Finally noticing the small silver gate with a large metal manja symbol across the gate, I entered the small entranceway to the left that allows access to the temple grounds at Daeyulsa Temple.
The first thing to greet you are a row of monks’ dorms to your left. And to the right is a house. A little further along, and you’ll notice the main attraction, by far, at Daeyulsa Temple. Standing out in front of the main hall, and standing inside the Yonghwa-jeon Hall, is the Unified Silla era “Stone Standing Buddha in Daeyul-ri, Gunwi.” By standing inside a Yonghwa-jeon Hall, this indicates that the statue is believed to be that of Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). This statue stands 2.65 metres in height, and it’s believed to date back to the 9th century. The statue has a large protruding part on top of its head. This is meant to symbolize the Buddha’s wisdom. It also has long ears that touch its shoulders. The statue also has three pronounced creases on its neck. This is meant to symbolize the “three destinies” of affliction, action, and suffering. The robe of the statue covers both of its shoulders. The right arm is placed along the side of its body with the palm facing outwards, while the left arm is bent with the left palm resting on its chest.
To the left of the Yonghwa-jeon Hall and the “Stone Standing Buddha in Daeyul-ri, Gunwi,” you’ll find the temple’s Sanshin-gak Hall. This shaman shrine hall just barely fits within the stone fence confines of the temple grounds. Inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) with a cartoonish image of a tiger by his side and a dongja (attendant) offering him peaches (a symbol of immortality).
Just behind these two shrine halls is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The concrete walls to this compact main hall are adorned with fading Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). As for its interior, and resting on the main altar, you’ll find a triad of statues centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is joined on either side by Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). Hanging on the far left wall is a mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars), while to the right hangs a painting dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And in front of this painting is a slim-looking statue of a green haired image of Jijang-bosal.
How To Get There
There are two buses that go out to Daeyulsa Temple from the Gunwi Intercity Bus Terminal. The first is the Gunwi to Dundeok Bus, while the other is the Gunwi to 2nd Seokguram Bus. In either case, you’ll need to take the bus for 16 stops and get off at the Daeyul 2-ri stop. From this stop, you’ll need to walk about 10 minutes west to get to Daeyulsa Temple.
Overall Rating: 4/10
It shouldn’t come as a surprise that the main highlight, and perhaps the only reason you’ve decided to visit Daeyulsa Temple, is the “Stone Standing Buddha in Daeyul-ri, Gunwi.” The accidentally discovered Unified Silla era statue is simply stunning. Additionally, there are a couple of other features like the nice Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) painting and the Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) statue inside the Daeung-jeon Hall. But again, you’ve probably come for the historic statue.
Seonggulsa Temple is located in southern Gyeongsan, Gyeongsangbuk-do to the northeast of Mt. Donghaksan (602.7 m). Formerly, the temple was known as Mansusa Temple. The temple, including the caves, seem to be modern in construction.
Temple Layout
You first approach Seonggulsa Temple up a long valley. On the eastern banks of the narrow stream is the eccentric Seonggulsa Temple. The first thing to greet you at the temple is a beautiful three metre tall stone statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Buddha of Medicine, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). To the left are numerous stone pagodas reminiscent of the ones at Tapsa Temple. In total, there are 108 of these pagodas at Seonggulsa Temple. On the side of the largest pagoda is an Indian-influenced multi-armed and headed image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). It’s just beyond this, and dug from the face of the neihgbouring mountain, that you’ll find a wooden entry to an artificial cave. Inside this artificial cave, which appears more like a bomb shelter than a Yaksa-jeon Hall, you’ll find a solitary stone image of Yaksayeorae-bul on the main altar at the end of the cave. The walls are lined with a solitary string of pink lotus lanterns.
To the right of this cave Yaksa-jeon Hall is a two-story structure. This modern-looking 1970s structure has the Daeung-jeon Hall on the second story of the structure. The exterior walls are adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues on the main altar. In the centre rests an image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by images of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). To the left of this triad rests a painting and statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And to the right of the main altar are a pair of paintings. The first is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). This painting is fronted by an image of Yaksayeorae-bul. And next to this painting is the Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall is another artificial cave at Seonggulsa Temple. This is the Jijang-jeon Hall. On the main altar are two smaller statues of Jijang-bosal. The first, in the centre, is a seated green-haired image of the Bodhisattva of the Afterlife. And to the left is a standing golden image of Jijang-bosal. Again, the interior of the cave shrine hall is lined with pink lotus lanterns. To the right, in a dugout enclave, is an image of a multi-armed and headed Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion).
And to the right of this cave Jijang-jeon Hall is an outdoor shrine with an altar that houses what looks to be a moon rock. In front of the moon rock stands an upright stone with red written painting on it. The red painting reads “Buddha’s Mind” on it. And it’s past this red stone and the monks’ dorms that you’ll find the stony exterior of the Sanshin-gak Hall. The painting housed inside this shaman shrine hall of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) is both modern and traditional in design.
How To Get There
From the Gyeongsan Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to walk about 5 minutes, or 300 metres, to get to the “Gyeongsan Shijang Market – 경산시장 하차” bus stop. From this stop, you’ll need to take the Namcheon Bus. After 15 stops, or 18 minutes, you’ll need to get off at the Sinseok (Cheongdo) stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk 3.5 kilometres, or 52 minutes, to the temple.
You can take public transportation or simply take a taxi directly to Seonggulsa Temple. The taxi ride should take about 20 minutes, or 8.6 km, and it’ll cost you around 13,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 5/10
Seonggulsa Temple isn’t like many other temples that you’ve visited in Korea. By far, the two main highlights are the two artificial caves that are the Jijang-jeon Hall and the Yaksa-jeon Hall. There are other highlights like the stony exterior of the Sanshin-gak Hall, the 108 stone pagodas at Seonggulsa Temple, and the retro main hall. This is a good temple to visit if you want something a bit different from the everyday.
Jukrimsa Temple in Cheongdo, Gyeongsangbuk-do, which shouldn’t be confused with the numerous other temples with the exact same name, is situated to the north of Mt. Namsan (851.7 m). It’s believed that Jukrimsa Temple was first founded in 610 A.D. by the monk Beopjeong. Initially, the temple was known as Hwanamsa Temple. Purportedly after Beopjeong founded Hwanamsa Temple, he travelled to Japan as directed by Queen Seondeok of Silla (r. 632-647 A.D.). As a result of his efforts, and upon his return to Silla, Beopjeong was rewarded with land next to Hwanamsa Temple. And because there was so much bamboo on this land, the name of the temple changed from Hwanamsa Temple to that of Jukrimsa Temple.
During the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the famed monk Jinul (1158-1210) reconstructed Jukrimsa Temple. Then during the early part of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the monk Muhak (1327-1405) rebuilt the temple, once more. In 1592, and during the Imjin War (1592-98), several shrine halls at Jukrimsa Temple were destroyed including the Daeung-jeon Hall and the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. All that remained of the shrine halls was the Bogwang-jeon Hall.
More recently, and starting in 1992, the Samseong-gak Hall was added to Jukrimsa Temple. This was followed with the construction of the Daeung-jeon Hall at the temple.
Temple Layout
You first approach Jukrimsa Temple up one of the stranger roads with spray paint scrawled all over abandoned buildings pointing you in the right direction towards the temple grounds. When you first arrive at the temple parking lot, you’ll have to make your way past the temple’s kitchen. Once you pass by this building, which kind of screens the rest of the temple grounds, you’ll finally enter into the main temple courtyard, where you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned with Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). Above the entrances to the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find paintings dedicated to Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power).
Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll be greeted by a main altar filled with smaller statues. In the centre is a smaller statue dedicated to Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise), who is joined on either side by even smaller images of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). On the far left wall is a highly original mural dedicated to the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld), which is joined to the right by a mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). And on the far right wall, you’ll find a smaller, yet masterful, Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
In front of the Daeung-jeon Hall is a slim two metre tall, five-story, stone pagoda. Between the main hall and the temple’s kitchen is an outdoor stone shrine dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King). The nuns’ quarters are the row of buildings to the far left in the main temple courtyard.
Between the Daeung-jeon Hall and the nun’s quarters, there’s a set of stone stairs that lead to the upper courtyard at Jukrimsa Temple. The first of these two shrine halls, and the much larger one, is the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls to the shaman shrine hall are uniquely adorned with Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find the central image dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the right is a mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). And to the left is a mural dedicated to a seated image of Yongwang (The Dragon King). Rather interestingly, Yongwang is without his traditionally angry beard and eyebrows. In fact, he looks quite placid.
To the left of the Samseong-gak Hall is the final shrine hall at Jukrimsa Temple, it’s the Sanshin-gak Hall. Inside this smaller sized shrine hall hangs a masterful modern painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). Of particular note is the stunning red pine that backs the image of the Mountain Spirit.
How To Get There
The easiest way to get to Jukrimsa Temple is from the Cheongdo Train Station. From this train station, the only practical way to get to Jukrimsa Temple is by taxi. The taxi ride will last about 7.5 km, and it’ll cost you around 20,000 won (one way).
Overall Rating: 5/10
There are some beautiful views of northern Cheongdo from the heights of Jukrimsa Temple. In addition to all the views, as well as some beautiful flowers planted in and around the temple grounds like poppies and daisies, you can also enjoy the unique Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld) painting inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the murals dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King) and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) in the two separate shaman shrine halls. While lesser known, Jukrimsa Temple in Cheongdo, Gyeongsangbuk-do has one of the more serene feelings to a temple in Korea.
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Geumsusa Temple, which means “Golden Water Temple” in English, is located in Dong-gu, Busan overlooking the port of Busan in the southern foothills of Mt. Gubongsan (404.5 m). Geumsusa Temple is most famous for being the headquarters of the Wonhyo Sect of Korean Buddhism. Also, it’s one of the 973 traditional Buddhist temples in Korea.
At the end of the Imjin War (1592-98), and in 1604, Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610) went to Japan to negotiate the return of Korean prisoners of war. At that time, Samyeong-daesa stayed in Busan near the port. When he tasted the water there, he looked around the area and thought that it would be a great place to practice. Ultimately, Samyeong-daesa would go to Japan and return to the Korean Peninsula with some 3,500 prisoners of war. Later, a disciple of Samyeong-daesa would stay in the area and practice. He would name the hermitage Geumsuam Hermitage. There is very little known about the temple after this until the 20th century.
In 1910, Dongho, who was a monk from Hwaeomsa Temple in Gurye, Jeollanam-do, built a pavilion in memory of the old historic temple site. Additionally, he reconstructed the temple and called it Geumsujeongsa Temple. In 1923, the monk Seokbong rebuilt the temple.
During the Korean War (1950-53), the temple grounds were used as a refugee camp. In 1961, the Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall was completed at Geumsusa Temple. Then in 1963, the bell pavilion was built at the temple. And in 1983, the Cheonwangmun Gate was built, as well.
Temple Layout
Climbing the stairs, the first thing to greet you at the temple, and just outside the main temple courtyard, is an stone statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). Just above the statue of Jijang-bosal, and up a set of stairs and to the right, are the stupas and stele of monks that once called Geumsusa Temple home. Next to this area, and a little to the left, is the Cheonwangmun Gate. Housed inside this entry gate are some of the cuter Four Heavenly Kings that you’ll find in Korea. However, this is off-set by the grotesque demonic demons that are being trampled under the feet of the Four Heavenly Kings.
Having passed through the Cheonwangmun Gate, and having entered into the main temple courtyard at Geumsusa Temple, you’ll be greeted by water ponds and gardens. The first temple shrine hall to greet you at the temple is the Cheonbul-jeon Hall. Sitting on the main altar inside this shrine hall are three larger golden statues. In the centre of these three larger statues is an image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This main altar is joined by a thousand golden statues of the Buddha. This shrine hall remains unpainted and enjoys its natural wood colour. Off in the distance, and to the west, you’ll be able to see Jungang Park and Chunghon Tower that stands 70 metres in height. The tower is dedicated to the loyal police and military of Busan that fought for Korea’s independence.
In the temple courtyard, you’ll find a strangely designed three-story wooden pagoda. At the base of this hallow pagoda is the temple’s bell. This might be one of the most unique bell pavilions I’ve seen at a Korean Buddhist temple.
To the right of this atypical pagoda/bell pavilion is a more traditional three-story stone pagoda with an intricate finial adorning the top of the pagoda. On either side of the stone pagoda are two seokdeung (stone lanterns). Behind this triad of stone structures is the main hall. The Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall’s exterior walls are adorned in Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Also, there’s some pretty unique front floral latticework adorning the main hall, as well.
Stepping inside the Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall, and resting on the main altar, are a set of seven statues (three larger statues joined by four smaller statues). Sitting in the centre of the three larger statues is an image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This image is joined on either side by Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). To the far left of the smaller sized statues rests Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), joined by Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy), Amita-bul, and an all-white image of Gwanseeum-bosal to the far right. On the left wall is a memorial for the dead with an image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) in the centre of the shrine. And to the right hangs an older-looking Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).
To the left of the Daegwangmyeong-jeon Hall are the monks’ dorms, the visitors’ centre, and the temple’s kitchen. And to the right of the main hall, you’ll find the Samseong-gak Hall. The left exterior wall is adorned with a colourful, but fading, mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). When you step inside the shaman shrine hall, you’ll be greeted by an array of paintings and statues. On the main altar, and resting in the centre, is a simplistic Chilseong (Seven Stars) mural. To the left of this central image rests both a painting and statue dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), while to the right is a painting and statue dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). The tiger accompanying Sanshin in this painting has quite the large head. And placed on the right wall, and on an altar all of its own, you’ll find two Yongwang (The Dragon King) statues.
How To Get There
To get to Geumsusa Temple, you’ll first need to make your way to Choryang Subway Station, which is stop #114 on the first line. From this subway station, you’ll need to go out Exit #3. From here, you’ll need to take a taxi, which should take about five minutes, or 1.4 km. The taxi ride should cost you around 4,500 won (one way).
You can take a taxi, or you can simply walk. The walk should take you about 25 minutes from the Choryang Subway Station to get to Geumsusa Temple. Again, you’ll need to go out Exit #3 and head west towards the Busan Bank. Continue along this zig-zagging road, until you finally get to the temple. There should be some signs along the way, especially as you near Geumsusa Temple
Overall Rating: 6.5/10
Like other temples in the area, the view is the main highlight to Geumsusa Temple of the Jungang Park and Chunghon Tower, as well as the port of Busan and the Gwangan Bridge. Additionally, the interior of the main hall is beautiful as is the mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). If you’re looking for something a bit different, than the pagoda/bell pavilion is for you. In combination with other temples in the area, a visit to Geumsusa Temple can make for a nice little adventure.
Jinbulsa Temple is located to the west of Mt. Gonggaesan (213.7 m) in eastern Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk-do near the East Sea. Jinbulsa Temple was purportedly first founded during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). It’s said that it was later destroyed by a landslide during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). It would be rebuilt in 1912. Additionally, Jinbulsa Temple belongs to the Taego-jong Order, which is the second largest Buddhist sect in Korea. It’s also one of the 973 traditional temples in Korea.
Temple Layout
Jinbulsa Temple is a smaller sized temple with a peculiar feel to it. With only a handful of shrine halls, Jinbulsa Temple is quite unique, and you’ll instantly feel this the moment you arrive. You first approach the temple grounds past some neighbouring farms after hanging a right at Heunghwan Beach. Finally, you’ll arrive at an opening in a forest that houses the main temple courtyard.
From the temple parking lot, and to your immediate left, you’ll find the administrative office at Jinbulsa Temple. Straight ahead, on the other hand, you’ll find the three temple shrine halls at the Jinbulsa Temple. The largest of the three, which is located in the centre, is the unpainted Daeung-jeon Hall.
Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll be greeted by a rather peculiar interior. Resting on the main altar are a triad of statues. The central image is that of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). To the right and left of this centre image are statues of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion), who sports a wonderfully colourful crown, and Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). This triad is book-ended by two folkish-looking dragon heads. To the right of the main altar are a row of miniature statues dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul. It’s also in this part of the main hall that you’ll find an older, off-coloured, Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). To the left of the main altar, on the other hand, are a pair of statues. The first of the two is a stone statue dedicated to Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha). And to the left of this statue is a more typical image of Gwanseeum-bosal. Rounding out the interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall is a beautiful mural dedicated to Jijang-bosal.
To the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall is another unpainted shrine hall. This shrine hall rests under a collection of pine trees. This shrine hall is the Sanshin-gak Hall. Inside this shrine hall once hung one of the strangest images dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) in all of Korea. Sanshin himself is crudely painted, while the black tiger that accompanies him looks more like a dragon/dog combination than a fierce tiger. Now, however, it appears as though the old Sanshin painting has been replaced by a more refined modern image of the Mountain Spirit.
To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall stands the Chilseong-gak Hall. It’s between the main hall and the Chilseong-gak Hall that you’ll find a seated, golden statue dedicated to Jijang-bosal. Once more, and like the two previous shrine halls at Jinbulsa Temple, the Chilseong-gak Hall is unpainted. Hanging on the main altar inside the shaman shrine hall is an older image dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the left of the main altar painting is a jade incarnation of what looks to be Gwanseeum-bosal. And to the right of the Chilseong painting is a golden statue of a figure that looks somewhat deformed and unrecognizable in appearance. Perhaps a Nahan (A Historical Disciple of the Buddha)?
How To Get There
From the Pohang Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #200 for 23 minutes, or 17 stops, and get off at the “Dogu 2-ri Maeul-Hoegwang Bus Stop.” From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to take the bus that reads “Donghae-Jiseon,” or “Ohcheon-Jiseon” on it. From either one of these buses, get off after 13 stops, or 16 minutes, at the “Heunghwa-ri Bus Stop.” You’ll need to then walk 2.2 km, or 30 minutes, to get to Jinbulsa Temple.
Overall Rating: 5/10
Jinbulsa Temple is one of the more scenically located temples in Korea that’s only a stone’s throw away from the East Sea. It’s also one of the stranger temples you’ll visit. The iconography inside the three temple shrine halls can be quite unique. It’s unfortunately that the former Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) painting is no longer inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, but there’s still enough oddities to see at the temple to keep your attention like the multi-coloured crown of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the folkish-looking dragon heads inside the main hall. These are just a few things that stand out. While smaller in size, Jinbulsa Temple might be worth a look for something a bit outside the every day.
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