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Sudoam Hermitage – 수도암 (Gimcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

Sudoam Hermitage on the Cheongamsa Temple Grounds in Gimcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

Hermitage History

Sudoam Hermitage is a hermitage that belongs to Cheongamsa Temple in Gimcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do. The hermitage is located south of the main temple on Mt. Sudosan (1,317.3 m). Sudoam Hermitage means “Practicing the Way Hermitage” in English. Like Cheongamsa Temple, Sudoam Hermitage was founded by Doseon-guksa (826-898 A.D.) in 859 A.D. Originally, the hermitage belonged to Ssanggyesa Temple. However, throughout the centuries, very little is known about the hermitage’s history after it was first founded. Later, Sudoam Hermitage was completely destroyed by fire in 1894 during the Donghak Peasant Revolution (1894-95). In 1900, the hermitage was rebuilt, which was around the same time as Cheongamsa Temple was rebuilt, as well. Sudoam Hermitage was rebuilt at this time by the monk Poeung-hwasang. The hermitage is also where Gyeongheo (1849–1912) and Hanam Jungwon (1876-1951) first met. It’s also where the monk Kusan (1909-83) gained his initial enlightenment.

In total, Sudoam Hermitage is home to three Korean Treasures. They are the “Stone Seated Bodhisattva at Sudoam Hermitage of Cheongamsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #296; the “East and West Three-Story Stone Pagodas at Sudoam Hermitage of Cheongamsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #296; and the “Stone Seated Vairocana Buddha at Sudoam Hermitage of Cheongamsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #307.

Hermitage Layout

From the hermitage parking lot, you can look up and see the Boje-ru Pavilion. The pavilion is quite long with dorms to the right and left of the central entryway to the hermitage grounds. Passing through the entryway, and if you look up, you’ll notice Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities) painted on the ceiling of the structure. And if you look back, you’ll notice the rolling hills and valley off in the distance.

Having passed through the Boje-ru Pavilion, you’ll now be standing in the upper parking lot. To your direct right is an administrative building, but it’s straight ahead that you’ll want to go. You’ll see a long set of stairs fronted by three stone lions. At the top of these stairs, you’ll find three more statues. These stone statues are dragon statues. At the top of these stairs, and a little further up the pathway, you’ll see another set of stairs. These stairs are fronted by two book-ending stone lanterns and a central stone lion. Climbing these next set of stairs, and past the three additional dragon statues, you’ll come face-to-face with one of the two pagodas that comprise the “East and West Three-Story Stone Pagodas at Sudoam Hermitage of Cheongamsa Temple.”

This first pagoda is the west pagoda. The east pagoda is located about fifty metres away. And between the two pagodas are a stone lantern and a stone marker that’s inscribed with hanja characters. As for the pagodas, they are twin pagodas. It’s believed that these pagodas were made by Doseon-guksa. Because of the narrow ridge that the shrine halls and pagodas are located on at Sudoam Hermitage, they are close in proximity to both shrine halls in this area. The west pagoda is a three-story structure that stands on a two-story pedestal. The second tier is much smaller than the first tier. A column pattern is engraved along the edge of the first body stone. Also appearing in this stone is an image of a seated Bodhisattva relief. The roof stones to each story are thinner and broader than the east pagoda’s.

As for the east pagoda, it stands on a single tier pedestal. It also has three stories. The side of each pedestal is engraved with a column pattern. What makes this pagoda different than its western neighbour is that the east pagoda’s first body narrows towards the top. Also, the Bodhisattvas in the first body stone are engraved inside a rectangular box. As for the second and third body stones, they are engraved with column patterns on all sides. The roof stones are slightly thicker and less thin than the west pagoda at Sudoam Hermitage. Judging by the design and carvings on the pagodas, they are both believed to date back to the middle of the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.).

Backing the west pagoda is the hermitage’s Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned with standard dancheong colours. However, the intricate eaves work is quite extensive and colourful. Stepping inside the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall, you’ll find a solitary stone statue of Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy). This is the “Stone Seated Vairocana Buddha at Sudoam Hermitage of Cheongamsa Temple.” The seated image is 2.51 metres in height, and it appears to be from late Unified Silla Dynasty (668-935 A.D.). Appearing on the top of Birojana-bul’s head is a topknot on top of a bald head. It’s both small and obvious. The face is square and plump with serene half-closed meditative eyes. It has long earlobes that come down to its shoulders. The robe covers both of its shoulders. The right hand covers the left index finger. This mudra (ritualized hand gesture) is known as the “diamond fist.” The statue rests upon a pedestal that’s divided into three parts. The bottom part is octagonal with an upside down lotus flower relief. The middle part of the pedestal is 45 cm in height with octagonal panels. There are two lines of lotus flowers crossing in a half circle at the top. There are also three lion images and a dragonhead carved at the front in the upper part of the pedestal, as well.

To the right of the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall is Yakgwang-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with various murals that include flowers, birds, and Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities). The dancheong is vibrant. And the floral latticework that adorns both the front and side doors of this shrine hall are intricate.

Stepping inside the Yakgwang-jeon Hall, you’ll find even more murals of flowers and birds. But the main highlight to the shrine hall is the “Stone Seated Bodhisattva at Sudoam Hermitage of Cheongamsa Temple.” This seated stone statue is believed to date back to the early Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Often this statue is mistaken for a Bodhisattva because of the crown it wears. However, because of the mandorla, pedestal, and other features of the statue, this statue is in fact an image of the Buddha. A lot of the features of the face have faded over time. Both shoulders are covered by its robe. The hands are joined together. The mandorla that surrounds the entire body and head of the statue are adorned with lotus flower designs and flame patterns. The top of the square pedestal that the statue rests upon is shaped like a lotus flower. There are panel decorations in the middle part of the pedestal. And the bottom part of the pedestal is shaped like an upside down lotus flower. The statue is absolutely stunning.

To the far left of these shrine halls is the hermitage’s farmland as well as the monks’ dorms. And to the right of these shrine halls, and to the right of the upper parking lot, you’ll find a trail that leads you towards the Nahan-jeon Hall at Sudoam Hermitage. The exterior walls of the Nahan-jeon Hall are adorned with Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). And up near the roof of the structure, you’ll see a fading manja image. Stepping inside the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll see a collection of sixteen colourful stone Nahan statues housed inside glass enclosures. And on the main altar, there’s a white triad of statues centred by a stone image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). And joining this central image on either side are white, crowned images of Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) and Yeondeung-bul (The Past Buddha).

How To Get There

The easiest way to get to Sudoam Hermitage from the Gimcheon Intercity Bus Terminal is to simply take a taxi. However, the taxi ride will take 50 minutes and cost 50,000 won (one way), so this probably isn’t an option.

If you want to take public transportation from the Gimcheon Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to board Bus #886-2. The bus ride will take about 60 minutes over 52 stops. You’ll need to get off at the “Pyeongchon – 평촌” stop. From this stop, you’ll need to walk an incredible 8 km up a mountain. In total, the hike should take at least 2 hours. So this probably isn’t an option either.

Simply put, the easiest and best way to get to this hard to reach hermitage is to simply have your own mode of transportation, but that isn’t always possible. The hermitage is definitely worth a visit, but it’s one of the harder ones to get to.

Overall Rating: 7/10

Sudoam Hermitage is one of the most impressive hermitages that you’ll see in Korea. It has three Korean Treasures, it’s beautifully situated, and it has a rich modern monastic history. The only drawback about the hermitage is that it’s hard to get to. But this aside, you really couldn’t ask for much more from a Buddhist hermitage in Korea. It simply checks all the boxes scenically, monastically, and artistically.

The Boje-ru Pavilion at Sudoam Hermitage.
A look back through the entryway.
A look up at the entry of the Boje-ru Pavilion at one of the Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities) that adorns the ceiling of the structure.
A look towards the upper courtyard at Sudoam Hermitage.
The west pagoda of the “East and West Three-Story Stone Pagodas at Sudoam Hermitage of Cheongamsa Temple” with the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall in the background.
A closer look at the icy Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall.
The “Stone Seated Vairocana Buddha at Sudoam Hermitage of Cheongamsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #307. (Picture courtesy of the CHA).
An up-close of the face of the “Stone Seated Vairocana Buddha at Sudoam Hermitage of Cheongamsa Temple.” (Picture courtesy of the CHA).
A look towards the Yakgwang-jeon Hall with a stone lantern in the foreground and the east pagoda of the “East and West Three-Story Stone Pagodas at Sudoam Hermitage of Cheongamsa Temple” in the background.
A closer look at the east pagoda.
The Yakgwang-jeon Hall.
A look inside the Yakgwang-jeon Hall at the “Stone Seated Bodhisattva at Sudoam Hermitage of Cheongamsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #296.
The beautiful Korean Treasure from a different angle.
The snowy landscape at Sudoam Hermitage.
The snowy hillside and stairs that lead down towards the Nahan-jeon Hall.
And the Nahan-jeon Hall at Sudoam Hermitage.

Capturing the Essence: A Morning Photowalk at Jinha Beach

Mornings at Jinha Beach are a magnet for Korean photographers, and for good reason – it’s a stunning location that never fails to inspire. Last week, I ventured out with the itch to capture the beauty that only the early hours could offer. In this blog post, I want to share my experience and emphasize the importance of going out without expectations, allowing the morning to unfold its magic.

The Itch to Capture

As a photographer, there’s an undeniable feeling in your bones that signals it’s time to head out and capture moments. Last week, that itch propelled me to Jinha Beach, driven by the anticipation of what the morning might reveal.

Embracing the Unexpected

This particular morning, I was running a bit late due to traffic, but I still managed to arrive before sunrise. Here’s a valuable lesson – sometimes, you have to embrace the unexpected. Just go out, see what unfolds, and let the morning surprise you. Whether good or bad, the key is that you got out.

The No Filter Shots

Before diving into long-exposure photography, I always take a few initial shots without any filters. This serves as a reference point and allows me to capture the full essence of the location before delving into the intricacies of long exposures.

Long-exposure photography requires time to achieve the correct exposure. Using the magnetic filter set from K&F Concept has proven invaluable. The ease of popping the 10-stop filter on and off swiftly enhances the efficiency of the process.

Unexpected Delights: Surfers in January… in Ulsan

Despite the chilly January weather in Korea, I was pleasantly surprised to find surfers at Jinha Beach at this time of year. Their presence added a unique dimension to my shots. Timing was crucial; I seized the opportunity when one surfer walked down the beach, waiting for the perfect wave. Quick adjustments to camera settings ensured I captured the fleeting moment.

Photography often demands quick decision-making. Moments come and go swiftly, especially with dynamic elements like surfers. I worked fast, experimenting with various settings to ensure I got the shot before the opportunity passed.

Closing Thoughts

In a matter of moments, the surfer was out in the water, and I decided to wrap up my session. As I packed my gear, I reflected on the importance of spontaneity in photography. Sometimes, you just need to go out, gear in hand, and see what unfolds. The unpredictability of these moments often leads to the most rewarding captures. So, my advice today is simple: go out, get some photos, and let the magic of the morning surprise you.

The post Capturing the Essence: A Morning Photowalk at Jinha Beach appeared first on The Sajin.


Jason Teale 

Photographer, educator, podcaster

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Photographing Korea and the world beyond!

 

 

Korean Learning Lies DEBUNKED | A Glass with Billy

Over the past decade I've heard all sorts of language learning tips. Most have been useful and valid, and I've used several tips and shortcuts along the way to help my own learning. However I've also encountered a large amount of tips that are less than helpful, as well as several "shortcuts" for learning that can slow down learners - and so has my friend Forrest. We met up and discussed some of the most common "lies" about language learning, and how someone can avoid them.

The post Korean Learning Lies DEBUNKED | A Glass with Billy appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

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~해 가지고 "So..." | Live Class Abridged

The form ~해 가지가 (or ~갖고) is often compared to ~서 as being an informal version, but they're actually not interchangeable in many cases. In Sunday's live stream I covered how they're similar and how they're different, and gave several examples of this form. The abridged version is here to watch and is only 10 minutes long.

The post ~해 가지고 "So..." | Live Class Abridged appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

Can my 7-year old son beat me at this Korean word chain game?

끝말잇기 is a Korean word game where you have to connect the start of a word with the ending of the previous word, using Korean syllables. I played this game together with my 7-year old son Jeremy several times to see who would be the victor.

The post Can my 7-year old son beat me at this Korean word chain game? appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

“And” in Korean – Using it as a particle and conjunction

And then it came time to learn “and” in Korean. Conjunctions such as “and” are simultaneously so easy and so hard to learn in a different language. They may not translate the same way from one language to another, but at the same time, they are often used in similar ways.

And in Korean text with flower accents in the borders

In the case of “and,” it has usages that both correspond to how the English language uses it and also have ways to use it that may not be seen in the English language. After this article, we hope you will have a more comprehensive understanding of the various ways to use and say “and” in Korean.

Let’s go!

Different ways to say “and” in Korean

There are four main ways to say “and” in Korean. We will list each one of them below.

-하고 (hago) and -고 (go)

This is a very standard way of saying “and.” Therefore, you will most commonly hear and see this structure being used. It links two actions (고 | go) or two objects (하고 | hago) together in a sentence. It is especially common to use in spoken language, but it isn’t rare to see in written texts, either.

새 카메라하고 프린터를 사고 싶어요. (sae kamerahago peurinteoreul sago sipeoyo.)

I want to buy a new camera and printer.

는 비디오 게임을 하 남자친구는 축구를 해요. (naneun bidio geimeul hago namjachinguneun chukgureul haeyo.)

I play video games, and my boyfriend plays football.

이 신발은 너무 예쁘 편안해요. (i sinbareun neomu yeppeugo pyeonanhaeyo.)

These shoes are so pretty and comfortable.

그리고 (geurigo)

This structure links two sentences or two nouns together. Depending on the context, 그리고 (geurigo) translates as either “and” or “and then.” In many ways, it is quite identical to -하고.

However, in the case of 그리고 (geurigo), what follows after the word “and” is typically more of an afterthought. So, in a way, 그리고 (geurigo) is linking together two separate sentences, whereas 하고 (hago) links together two or more different things in the same sentence.

먼저 점심을 먹을 거예요. 그리고 영화를 보러 갈 거예요. (meonjeo jeomsimeul meogeul geoyeyo. geurigo yeonghwareul boreo gal geoyeyo.)

First I will eat lunch. And then, I will go watch a movie.

비빔밥, 불고기, 그리고 떡갈비 먹고 싶어요. (bibimbap, bulgogi, geurigo tteokgalbi meokgo sipeoyo.)

I want to eat bibimbap, bulgogi, and tteokgalbi.

(이)랑 (irang)

Here -랑 (rang) is added after vowels, while -이랑 (irang) is added after a consonant. While it is not regarded as informal as such, it is incredibly casual and almost solely used in spoken Korean. In English, this may even be better translated as “with” rather than “and.”

It also has some other applicable translations that may be used. If there is more than one object mentioned in the sentence, you can attach -(이)랑 to each of them rather than just the first one.

오늘 친구랑 영화를 보 쇼핑했어요. (oneul chingurang yeonghwareul bogo syopinghaesseoyo.)

Today I watched a movie and shopped with a friend.

나는 여자친구 밥을 먹었어. (naneun yeojachingurang babeul meogeosseo.)

I had a meal with my girlfriend.

배고파서 김밥이랑 떡볶이를 먹었어요. (baegopaseo gimbabirang tteokbokkireul meogeosseoyo.)

I was hungry, so I ate kimbab and tteokbokki.

-와 (wa) and -과 (gwa)

Of all the options, these are the ones to use in formal situations, specifically added after a noun. It cannot be used after a sequence of objects; there can be only two nouns in the sentence. -와 (wa) is added after a noun ending in a vocal, and -과 (gwa) is added after a noun ending in a consonant.

This is a common way to use “and” in written Korean. It also works great in professional situations. However, this is usually avoided in spoken Korean.

Just like with the other options on this list, -와 (wa)/-과 (gwa) can also be used for other meanings, at least in how the word translates to other languages in context. For example, it can be used to state that something is different “from” another thing. It can also be translated as “with” or even “as”.

결정을 내리기 전에 어머니 이야기를 해봐야 해요. (gyeoljeongeul naerigi jeone eomeoniwa iyagireul haebwaya haeyo.)

I’ll have to talk with my mother before I make a decision.

미식축구 축구는 매우 달라요. (misikchukguwa chukguneun maeu dallayo.)

American football is very different from football.

내 대답은 어제 같아. (nae daedabeun eojewa gata.)

My answer is the same as yesterday.

제일 좋아하는 음식은 피자 스시예요. (jeil joahaneun eumsigeun pijawa seusiyeyo.)

My favorite foods are pizza and sushi.

“And” as a Korean particle

To summarize, “and” is largely used as a particle in the Korean language. -과 (gwa)/-와 (wa), -(이)랑 (irang), and -하고 (hago) all serve as the particle “and,” as well as the particle “with.” We have an article on Korean particles, where we give some supporting information on this topic.

“And” as a Korean conjunction

As you may have noticed above, “and” also doubles as a conjunction in the Korean language. As such, it is not only -과 (gwa)/-와 (wa), -(이)랑 (irang), and -하고 (hago) that work as conjunctions, but 그리고 (geurigo) and -고 (go) as well. Here, it connects sentences and phrases together. We have an article on the topic, if you would like to get more familiar with Korean conjunctions.

Wrap Up

Now, do you believe you can handle the word “and” in Korean? We think you’ll be able to! As you can see, it operates quite similarly as it does in other languages, especially as a conjunction.

Understanding how the Korean words for “and” also operate as particles and other words may be trickier, but after this lesson, you’ll know a little better. And if you feel ready, you can start making sample sentences below in the comments! Next up, how about learning how to say “of course?”

The post “And” in Korean – Using it as a particle and conjunction appeared first on 90 Day Korean.

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즉(슨) | Live Class Abridged

This past Sunday I had a live class about the ADVANCED LEVEL grammar form ~즉(슨), which can be used like the Topic Marker (은/는) and has several uses. The full live stream lasted over an hour and a half, with some technical difficulties in the middle, but this abridged version is just over 10 minutes long.

The post 즉(슨) | Live Class Abridged appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

Capturing Moments and Looking Forward: A New Year Update from Sajin Photography


Greetings, Photography Enthusiasts! --✨

As we have bid farewell to the past year, I find myself reflecting on the incredible journey we’ve shared in the world of photography. The December 2023 gallery exhibition was nothing short of a triumph, and the outpouring of support from this fantastic city was truly amazing. The city of Ulsan support made it a resounding success, and I’m immensely grateful for every all that they’ve done.

Gallery Exhibition Recap: A December to Remember

The gallery exhibition in December 2023 was a culmination of passion, dedication, and creativity. It was a bit of a struggle at times but in the end it was a success. I was just overjoyed that my students could have their images displayed on the walls of the Ulsan Culture and Arts Center. My students have fueled my determination to delve even deeper into the art of storytelling through the lens and to create more lessons for them in the coming months.

Teaching and Sharing Knowledge at Ulsan Support Center for Foreigners

Looking ahead, the journey continues! I’m thrilled to announce that I’ll be continuing to teach photography classes at the Ulsan Support Center for Foreigners, tentatively starting in March 2024. The opportunity to share knowledge and foster a community of budding photographers is something I eagerly anticipate.

This was something that I took great joy in doing over the past year. The friends that I have made through this class and the experiences were unforgettable. I am really grateful for the opportunity to teach these classes.

Growing as a Photographer in 2024

As we step into the New Year, my aspirations as a photographer reach new heights. I am committed to expanding my portfolio, pushing the boundaries of creativity, and capturing moments that transcend the ordinary. This year is about growth, both personally and artistically.

After teaching photography every Saturday, for at least 2 hours, it sparked a new passion for the art that was starting to dim in the last few years. Now, I am fired up about the numerous photographic adventures that I am going to go on in this coming year.

Building Strong Partnerships

In my quest for excellence, I’m excited to explore collaborations with esteemed companies such as K&F Concept and others. Building strong relationships within the industry will not only enhance my craft but also open doors to exciting opportunities for all of us.

In 2023, I was very fortunate to have won not only a magnetic filter set from K&F Concept but also a brand new tripod! Not to mention they even gave me a medal!

To me, K&F Concept is doing a great job of building a community on Facebook and I encourage you to join their group as well. Not just for the contests but for the community too.

Upcoming Project Teaser

Hold onto your lenses, for there’s a thrilling announcement on the horizon! In the coming months, I’ll be embarking on a significant project that promises to be a visual spectacle. Stay tuned for updates as I unveil the details, and let’s embark on this journey together.

As we navigate the uncharted waters of 2024, I am filled with gratitude for the unwavering support this community has provided. Here’s to another year of chasing light, capturing stories, and growing as photographers. Together, let’s make 2024 a year to remember!

Wishing you all a year filled with boundless creativity and breathtaking captures,

Jason Teale ---- #PhotographyJourney #NewYearUpdate #SajinPhotographyBlog

The post Capturing Moments and Looking Forward: A New Year Update from Sajin Photography appeared first on The Sajin.

Cheongamsa Temple – 청암사 (Gimcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

Cheongamsa Temple in Gimcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

Temple History

Cheongamsa Temple is located in southern Gimcheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do to the north of Mt. Sudosan (1,317.3 m). The story of Cheongamsa Temple is one of being built, destroyed, and being rebuilt, once more. In total, Cheongamsa Temple was rebuilt a total of five times. The temple was first established in 859 A.D. by the famed monk Doseon-guksa (826-898 A.D.). Little is known about Cheongamsa Temple during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) and the early part of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). In 1647, the temple was completely destroyed by fire. The temple was later reconstructed by the monks Heojeong-hwasang and Hwanu-daesa. After Cheongamsa Temple was reconstructed, it was nothing more than a small hermitage that fell under the direct administration of Ssanggyesa Temple.

Unfortunately, the temple would be destroyed, once more, by fire in April, 1782. Cheongamsa Temple would be reconstructed some twenty years later by the monk Hwanu. The temple would close in 1897, but it would be rebuilt over several years by the monk Daeun. Eventually, the temple would be re-opened in 1904. The reconstruction cost of the temple was contributed by Song Seol-dang (1855-1939), who was also the founder of the Gimcheon Middle and High School. The temple would be destroyed by fire in 1911, and it was restored the next year, once more, by the monk Daeun.

In the early 1900s, the Geukrak-jeon Hall was built. Then in the spring of 1912, the Bogwang-jeon Hall was completed. It was also at this time that the multi-armed and headed statue of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) was housed inside the shrine hall. And from 1987 to 2005, Cheongamsa Temple continued to be reconstructed and rebuilt to appear as it does now.

In 1987, Cheongamsa Temple established the Sungga-daehakgyo (Buddhist Women’s College for the training of female monks). The college program is a four year program. There are two hermitages directly associated with Cheongamsa Temple. They are the famed Sudoam Hermitage, which was also founded by Doseon-guksa, and Baekryeonam Hermitage, which was founded in 1900.

Temple Layout

As you first near the temple grounds, you’ll be welcomed by the Iljumun Gate. This stately entry gate has a signboard on it that reads “Cheongamsa Temple Bulyeongsan” on it. Obviously, the sign indicates the name of the temple, while also referencing the other name to the mountain where the temple is located. Mt. Bulyeongsan means “Buddha Spirit Mountain” in English.

A little further up the trail, and you’ll come to a clearing that houses both the Cheonwangmun Gate and a collection of biseok (stele). The first of the two biseok are housed inside protective pavilions. The stele on the right is dedicated to Huidang, while the biseok to the left is dedicated to Daeun. And to the left of these pavilions are a row of five unsheltered biseok. As for the Cheonwangmun Gate, you’ll find four beautiful paintings dedicated to the Four Heavenly Kings inside it.

A little further up the trail, but before making your way across the wooden bridge, you’ll find a large collection of ancient graffiti carved across the face of the numerous boulders. The combination of ancient graffiti, the meandering stream, and the wooden bridge make for a beautiful view. It’s also in this area that you’ll find a small spring named Ubicheon. Supposedly, and according to the geomantic principles for which Doseon-guksa, the founder of Cheongamsa Temple, was renowned, the temple site is extremely auspicious and thought to appear like a cow lying down. This spring is thought to represent the cow’s nose. The nose of a healthy cow is constantly wet; and likewise, the temple and the nation would always prosper as long as the Ubicheon flowed steadily. Conversely, in times of national crisis, the spring is said to dry up.

Continuing up the pathway, you’ll come to a compound divided by the stream. Rather uniquely, Cheongamsa Temple is divided into two major courtyards. The first of these courtyards is situated to the north of the stream. Before crossing the Geukrak-gyo Bridge, you’ll find the beautiful Jong-ru Pavilion. Housed inside this pavilion are the four traditional percussion instruments. The first of these four percussion instruments is the blue Mokeo (Wooden Fish Drum), which has its mouth wide open. In front of this is a modern-looking Unpan (Cloud Plate Drum). The surface of this plate drum is adorned with a vibrant metal relief of the sun and the moon. And next to this is the large temple bronze bell that’s crowned by a statue of Poroe (The Dragon that Adorns the Top of the Temple Bell). And finally, you’ll see the Beopgo (Dharma Drum). This large drums rests atop a realistic wooden statue of a green turtle. All four percussion instruments are masterful.

Finally crossing the bridge, you’ll find the large Manse-ru Pavilion. To the left and right of this large entry gate, which also acts as a place for large dharma talks, are a collection of buildings. These buildings are the Yosachae (monks’ dorms), administrative offices, and the kitchen facilities. And to the far left, you’ll find the Nambyeol-dang Hall, which is where Queen Inhyeon (1667-1701) lived after being stripped of her royal title in 1689. The building features a traditional style similar to palace architecture in deference to the queen’s fate. Queen Inhyeon would eventually be re-instated as the queen in 1694. Now the building that once housed Queen Inhyeon during her exile is used as the temple’s college.

But it’s directly behind the Manse-ru Pavilion that you’ll find the beautiful Daeung-jeon Hall. Out in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall is the “Multi-Storied Stone Pagoda of Cheongamsa Temple,” which is also a Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Property Material. This slender pagoda stands 4.21 metres in height and was moved from the neighbouring city of Seongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do to its present location in 1917. The architectural style of the pagoda appears to date back to the late Joseon Dynasty. Originally, the pagoda had five stories; but now, only four of the original five stories still remain. The pagoda seems somewhat unbalanced because of its wide base and narrow body stones. Adorning the base of the pagoda on all four sides is a lotus relief design. And the first body stone of the pagoda is adorned with a relief of the Buddha on all four of its sides, as well.

As for the Daeung-jeon Hall, the exterior walls are adorned with various Buddhist-related murals. These masterful murals include images of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) riding a blue haetae, Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) riding a white elephant, various guardians striking menacing poses, as well as a collection of various Bodhisattvas near the side entries to the main hall.

Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a solitary statue of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) resting under an atypical box-like canopy painted in red, blue, and white colours. There are two long, wooden dragons book-ending the main altar that the statue of Seokgamoni-bul rests upon. Looking up at the ceiling of the Daeung-jeon Hall, the red, blue, and white colour motif continues. There are two large, wooden dragons that protectively look down on the main hall from the wooden beams. Adorning every surface of the main hall are images of Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities), Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha), a white rabbit, a white deer, a phoenix, and lotus flower designs. Directly to the right of the main altar is an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). This painting is joined in this area by a fantastic incarnation of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), who is accompanied by a golden-eyed tiger. And to the left of the main altar, you’ll find an equally older image dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars), as well as an impressive image dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). In this painting, the mountain stream swirls at his feet, while he contemplatively rests his arm and hand on rock outcroppings.

Recrossing the Geukrak-gyo Bridge, and making your way up an uneven set of stone stairs, you’ll make your way towards the southern courtyard at Cheongamsa Temple that houses both the Geukrak-jeon Hall and the Bogwang-jeon Hall. There is a sign in this area, and it can seem a bit confusing, but follow the arrows on the sign to help direct you. The first of the two shrine halls that you’ll come across is the Geukrak-jeon Hall. Unfortunately, this shrine hall is off-limits to the general public.

Just to the south of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, and book-ended by the outer wall of the Geukrak-jeon Hall to the north and another building to the south, you’ll find the Bogwang-jeon Hall. The Bogwang-jeon Hall was originally built at the time that Queen Inhyeon came to live at Cheongamsa Temple in 1689. Through the years, the shrine hall eventually fell into disrepair. It would be rebuilt in 1905 by the monks Daeun and Eungun. Out in front of the Bogwang-jeon Hall is a beautiful, new incense burner. The entire surface of the incense burner is adorned with reliefs of lotus flowers. As for the Bogwang-jeon Hall, and the front entry doors, you’ll find paintings of tri-coloured taegeuk images, as well as a pair of Gwimyeon (Monster Masks) and a central lotus flower painting. The exterior walls are adorned with various paintings that include one of a blue dragon, a traditional-looking tiger, as well as various images of the Sinseon (Taoist Immortals).

Stepping inside the Bogwang-jeon Hall, you’ll be greeted by the early 20th century statue of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). The somewhat chubby image of Gwanseeum-bosal is both multi-armed and headed. Like the Daeung-jeon Hall, the interior is adorned with the colours of red, blue, and white. Looking up at the ceiling of the shrine hall, you’ll find images of the Sinseon (Taoist Immortals), Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities), as well as images of the sun and the moon, which are in deference to the royal family. To the right of the main altar, you’ll find an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural), as well as a wonderful image dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), who looks to be both contemplative and forlorn. And joining Sanshin is a tiger that has demonic eyes. To the left of the main altar are a pair of paintings. The first is an image dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). In this painting, Dokseong looks just as forlorn as Sanshin but a little more hopeful. If you look closely at the dongja (attendants), you’ll notice a beautiful collection of tea cups and a tea pot. And hanging on the far left wall is a painting dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars).

How To Get There

From the Gimcheon Intercity Bus Terminal, you can take Bus #86-3 to get to Cheongamsa Temple. In total, you will need to take this bus for 53 stops, which will take 68 minutes, and get off at the “Cheongamsa Stop – 청암사 하차.” From where the bus drops you off, you’ll simply need to walk an additional 200 metres, or 5 minutes, to get to Cheongamsa Temple.

Overall Rating: 8/10

Cheongamsa Temple has this wonderful, remote feel to it. Perhaps it’s the long valley that leads up to it, and perhaps its the geomantic principles of Doseon-guksa at play, but Cheongamsa Temple has this amazing feel to it. Its link to royal history, as well as its natural beauty, add to the temple’s overall appeal. Also of interest is the artwork in and around the Daeung-jeon Hall like the interior paintings, as well as the shaman paintings dedicated to Sanshin and Dokseong inside the main hall. The four traditional percussion instruments inside the Jong-ru Pavilion are masterful, as are the fading murals that adorn the exterior walls of the Bogwang-jeon Hall in the southern courtyard. Also of interest are the shaman murals housed inside this hall, as well. Overall, Cheongamsa Temple presents a beautiful combination of natural and artistic beauty. While rather remote, and somewhat unknown, Cheongamsa Temple is a wonderful example of a temple at its solemn best.

The Iljumun Gate at Cheongamsa Temple.
The Cheonwangmun Gate.
The painting of Damun Cheonwang inside the Cheonwangmun Gate.
The pair of pavilions that house biseok (stele) at the entry of the temple grounds.
A look back at the Cheonwangmun Gate from the stream near the northern courtyard at Cheongamsa Temple.
The Jong-ru Pavilion on the southside of the temple stream.
The Beopgo (Dharma Drum) with a green turtle at its base inside the Jong-ru Pavilion.
The view from the Manse-ru Pavilion out towards the Jong-ru Pavilion.
The “Multi-Storied Stone Pagoda of Cheongamsa Temple” in the northern courtyard.
A look up at the Daeung-jeon Hall.
Some of the Bodhisattva paintings that adorn one of the exterior walls of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
As well as this fierce guardian.
The main altar inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The beautiful Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) painting inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
Some of the Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities) that adorn some of the interior surfaces of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
And one of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) paintings inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The off-limits Geukrak-jeon Hall.
The Bogwang-jeon Hall at Cheongamsa Temple.
The fading tiger painting that adorns one of the exterior walls of the Bogwang-jeon Hall.
The beautiful main altar inside the Bogwang-jeon Hall.
The forlorn painting of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the Bogwang-jeon Hall.
Joined by this equally forlorn image of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).
And a look up at the ceiling of the Bogwang-jeon Hall at a Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deity) and a white moon.

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