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Chicago

13 Aug 2001, On our way to a family reunion in Detroit, we took a slight detour out to Chicago for a couple days.

We're Off


.... to Seoul & Bangkok.
xo
a.

Getting Creative

4 May 2009, I try to be creative to help my students learn English and put together various ideas.

I Do Live in Korea

23 Jul 2009, I had a 100 won coin on the table a couple days ago and one student next to me says "That's Korean money", and I'm just like "Yeah, I know" and she's shocked! "You know? How?" "Uh, I live in Korea..."

Learning Korean at Work

24 Jul 2009, There's a Korean word "퍽" (meaning 'very'), which should be pronounced "puck", but the Koreans often make the P sound like an F...

Punctuated Equilibrium

In just about every petrol station in Australia, there are a range of meat pies and pasties for sale. To a North American, a petrol station is called a gas station. This has never made sense to me, as the product being sold is actually a liquid. Incidentally, Korean service stations are often labelled here as 'Oilbanks'.

But I digress.

One craving that I've had that has definitely grown in its voracity has been for a nice steak and mushroom pie with plenty of tomato sauce. On occasion, I used to drop by the old BP on Prospect Road and pick one up on the way to university. Here in Korea, there are no meat pies to speak of. Instead Korea has choco-pies, which are large Wagon Wheel-like conglomerations of marshmallow and jam. I hope that such flagrant misuses of the name 'pie' shall not go unpunished.

Apart from at festivals and in front of casinos, Australia doesn't have much of a street food culture. This is a little unfortunate, as often the cheapest and most authentic food in other cities is sold at street food outlets. Korea is big on street food culture, although the variety is usually limited to a couple of spicey things, things that come on a stick and some fried things.

Ddeokbeokki is a popular spicy rice-cake snack here. Last week I saw it being made for the first time and was surprised by the amount of sugar syrup added. During the preparation process, this ajumma whipped out an industrial sized bottle of some maple-syrup-like glucose-derivative and glugged a good half kilo over it.

Back home, non-steak parts of a meat animal often go into sausages. Here in Korea, they're sold as delicacies. That begs the question... what goes into sausages over here? I'm not especially sure, but I have noticed that the sausages here usually taste a bit bland.

In the photo above are some various parts of an animal and dipping sauce. The meat that my toothpick is impaling is a pig's lung. I don't think I've ever eaten a lung before, but it tasted a lot like liver. When I order this kind of dish, I like to have a good poke around first and work out what anatomical curiousity I'm dealing with.

Work in the lab is moving slowly these days. I'm trying to construct some fluorescence vectors for a later experiment. In biology, a vector is what we use to describe something that can be transferred. What we do is construct a small ring of DNA in a simple bacterial species, and then transfer it to a higher organism.

And a good percentage of time in any science lab is spent labelling things.

The glassy liquid in the bottle is glycerol, which we mix with bacteria in the storage tubes on the right. What then happens is that the glycerol coats the 'skins' of the bacteria and allows us to freeze them at minus 80 degrees celsius. The bacteria go into a state of cryo-preservation and can be woken up at a later date.

You know, if you have enough money you can elect to have your body frozen in a similar manner when you die. For about US$150,000 you can be preserved and the idea is that you will be resuscitated when medical technology is good enough to bring you back. There's a whole bunch of companies that specialise in this field, which is called cryonics.

While I wouldn't want to be preserved myself, I don't think it's an entirely silly idea. However, I wonder what kind of world the cryonics participants expect to wake up to. For future society, a cryonically preserved person that has been woken up would probably be more of an anthropological curiousity to everyone, would they not? Something like a woolly mammoth? How would they go about living a normal life if they had 'PREVIOUSLY DECEASED, BUT CORPSE REANIMATED' written on their resume?

This week, the professor and the elder lab members went to Canada for a conference. That means that we had the lab to ourselves. On Thursday we ordered a pizza which was nice enough, but it can be a challenge to find a pizza here without sweet potato on it. This one also had roasted walnuts, which were a surprise.

Down the road from our building is the Sobahn cafe, which I hadn't been to since arriving because it's a little pricey. To a postgrad student in Korea, pricey means anything more than five dollars.

This cafe specialises in bibimbap, one of my favourite dishes. The word bibim means a mixture, and bap is rice. So it's basically a plethora of predominantly vegetarian tidbits, all mixed up into a rice salad. Simple, healthy and usually cheap.

Cafe Sobahn's was around six dollars and pretty good. But not twice as good as the three dollar ones you can get from the corner shop.

I tutor a couple of times per week these days, because I need the money. On Tuesdays I tutor a little kid called Thomas down at Seolleung station. He's a smart kid that I'll hopefully post a picture on here some time later.
Before I tutored him last week, I dropped by a Chinese restaurant in the area and ordered this white jjambong soup. Jjambong is normally red with spice, but this one was mild.

And on Thursdays I tutor up at Lundbeck near the Garak Markets. It takes me a while to get there and I usually teach for around 3 hours. Tutoring as well as doing the Ph.D does take a toll on my energy levels, but I'm also trying to save money for the honeymoon and there's never much left over from my student wage.

The students here are company workers and I teach them all separately. They tell me that they enjoy my lessons, which is always good to hear. Working at CDI was useful to me in this regard, it taught me how to put together a practical English lesson.
For the lesson plan each week, I print out a news article and we discuss the basic ideas and our opinions. Then I point out some specific words and phrases in the text and we talk about how to use them in different situations. Sound simple enough?

It's not always what you teach, it's the way you teach it.

While wandering the side streets of Gangnam this week, I came across this rather bemusing bumper sticker. Punctuated equilibrium is a slight modification of the general evolutionary theory. Nothing spectacular in itself, but it's funny that someone would put it on their bumper. I can only imagine their disappointment as they drive around in a honkless environment. Perhaps that was their aim after all?

Anyway, see you next time!


Touchdown



Touchdown in Beijing: Pork Spine
Driving into Beijing I was a little apprehensive. Vast, drab buildings gave me the impression I was entering some sort of post-communist desert, while the thick, impenetrable smog that blocked out the sun put me in mind of the industrialised Victorian London so savagely described in my current doorstop of choice, Charles Dickens' Bleak House.
Yet beyond the motorway off-ramps and tower blocks, an entirely different world awaited. The ancient alleways and thoroughfares that characterise Beijing's hutong districts (in one of which our hostel is located,) abound with activity and so far have proved a fantastic introduction to Chinese life.
In Nan Luo Gu Xiang Hutong, the sights and sounds are many and varied. Shirtless and potbellied old men stand around smoking or playing games. Bikes and motorized rickshaws careen through haphazardly. All around, people seem to be engaged in either tearing things down or building them up.
Somewhat surprisingly, a modern vibrant edge to the city is also present here in the small independent boutiques and trendy speciality shops that sit easily among the traditonal craft shops and tea houses.
Included in the chaos (happily) is street food. I found these guys (what I assume to be pork spine) curled up and smoking on a one man grill, when we ducked into the side of the road to avoid a monsoon downpour.
The pork spine had been coated in a spicy and sweet spare-rib style sauce that was charred in some places and sticky elsewhere. The meat came off easily and in substantial chunks, but nevertheless encouraged the kind of cheek-smearing bone-gnawing that makes one's girlfriend stand a few paces away.
This was one grill, in one street, in one block of a thouroughly massive city. Tonight we're off to Wangfujing snack street in search of lamb kebabs and flat bread.
I honestly feel like I'm in heaven.

VACATION! VACATION!

I'm at home on a Friday like a responsible cit, sipping a cold glass of Asahi and keeping my two cats company before I embark on this summer's journey. They are very attached to me, shadowing me throughout my place, and I know that they will freak out with separation anxiety when I'm gone. Fuck it, they're cats. They'll get over it. That's why I adopted two, so they can keep each other company during my frequent absences, and to dissuade Motgol from spitefully shitting on my pillow when left alone for too long.

Vacation. Hoo-ray.

I finished my month-long indentured summer obligation of "extra classes" today, wrapping it up with two hours of kiddy class in which I played The Sticky Ball Game (a genius invention of The Big Dog Sam) and pretented to attack them as a crazed gorilla. I often channel the gorilla when working with kids, since they go nuts for the kinetic engergy of a feral gorilla running amuck in the classroom. This is why I'm universally known as "Gorilla Teacher" among the children I teach. It makes no sense and has zero educational value. It's just really really silly, and THAT'S why I like it.

This has been a long month - the busiest schedule I've worked since my days in a Haeundae hogwon. I had nine a.m. classes daily, which for me is like having to wake up at three to milk the cows. I generally showed up on time - though there were several times when I staggered in reeking of Warsteiner and Jameson's - the result of the one-two punch of drinking with my good friend Scott Evans near Kyungsung University. Most of my students trickled in twenty or thirty minutes late, though - as this class was a summer jerkoff affair, never requiring real dedication or diligence. There was always that one Christian girl sitting bright-eyed at the front of the room, though. There always is. She probably came forty-five minutes early every day, filled with Christ's linguistic fervor. When asked a question, she usually replied in Aramaic...

This month will be filed prominently in the "most fun I've had in Korea" folder, to tell the truth. I worked a lot and made some coin, but I played harder. I did three standup comedy shows, two of which were for packed houses of loud, responsive audiences. I had some epic sessions with some good, new friends. "The Gargles" reunited for two, boozy, impromptu gigs, thanks to the temporary addition of Eric the German to the lineup. The man can rock. He hits the drums like a concentration camp guard beating a gay Jewish communist. Lucie and I spent a lot of time together, eating serious meals and getting deeper into the groove of each other. The passion that we have erupted into a few fiery blowups, but our white-hot anger tends to cool quickly, which is an important reason to stay together. We know that these things pass.

So I'm enjoying some prime Jap suds and pondering the wicked adventure that will make up the next month. There are two main components:

Tomorrow morning I fly to Jeju Island, the big volcanic outcropping that is Korea's largest and most famous island. "Jejudo is the 'Hawaii of Korea'" This is one of those earnest statements made by the locals that invariably causes eye-rolling and scoffs among foreigners - but despite the attempts by Koreans to glorify their main maritime possession, I am told that it's generally a nice place. It has a much different flavor than the rest of The Peninsula, and I'm looking forward to checking out some beaches, eating some crazy, delicious seafood, doing some hiking, and spending some good time with the girl.

But the weather is being uber-cunty. It's scheduled to piss much of the time we're there. It's rained and rained and fucking well rained for the whole month of July. This isn't unheard of, as it IS the rainy season, but this rainy season has been maliciously rainy, and it's about time someone put a stop to it. So I'm officially FIRING the summer monsoon. Take a hike, 장마. 나가라!

I come back to The K on next Wednesday, and then promptly fly to China on Thursday morning, where I will meet up with my merry band of degenerates in Kunming city, in the far-away southern province of Yunnan. After checking out Kunming we'll head towards the Indochinese border, where we're planning on seriously chilling among the limestone mountains and getting our hill tribe jungle trek on. We'll then cross into Laos, where we will disappear for a good ten days in the northern reaches of the most chilled out country in the world.

I'm bringing rain gear and a big fuck-off can of DEET, to deter the skitters. I hope I don't catch swine flu or malaria or dengue fever or any other such tropical horror. I hope my ass doesn't explode with brown water every fifteen minutes, which is probably just wishful thinking, since it always does when I travel to brown people countries. This sometimes applies applies to white people countries as well. I got diarrea in the UK last time I was there. I think it was from a "dodgy banger." It was in Wales, though, and I'm not even sure if those people are "white." Mustn't we draw the line somewhere?

Anyway...

Stay tuned for new and raw travel stuff here at Showbiz Central, anyway.

John Finds A Job


It only took a few posts over a month or so, but this blog's namesake will soon become unnecessary. Because John found a job.

On Aug. 13, I will leave for South Korea, where I will teach on Imja island for a year.

This is not a new job, per se. It seems like Korea has become the Ross and Rachel recurring story arc in my life, basically since the end of college. Whenever ratings go down, bring Korea back into the mix for a little knee-jerk boost. By actually going back, this might put an end to that story arc as, like the supposed curse that kept the Boston Red Sox from winning the World Series for almost 90 years, once this thing is done it's, well, done.

Confused? Maybe koreanchronicles.blogspot.com will help. For now, annyonghi kaseyo!

—John Dunphy

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