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Time to Evolve

While I've always tried to keep Lee's Korea Blog running in the background of my daily life, I must admit that it has grown into something I'm rather proud of at times. However, the downside of this is that it has become something begging a certain amount of upkeep. A compulsory voluntarianism of sorts. Usually a week after I blog, I feel fine. But toward the 2 week mark, the impending urge to update the blog increases to a dull roar.

The main obstacle to blogging is coming across interesting things, and having enough time to post them up here. These days I'm fairly busy, and a 20-photo blog post takes about an hour and a half to organise, write and proof read (I am mildly obsessive about correcting spelling errors). It's getting more tempting to put off a large blog post for an extended period of time. I also don't feel it especially necessary to blog for the sake of blogging, and waste other people's time. My general aim is to provide something slightly informative and slightly entertaining. Kind of like a more amateur version of David Letterman's The Late Show. To that end, I think I'll start a trial run of blogging in shorter doses. Like a couple of photos at a time, and maybe some longer ones from time to time. This should be easier to manage and the posts will come in higher frequency. I'll try and keep it to every few days at least.

Because I'm living more cheaply and going out less, I may digress a little more from just 'Life in Korea' and delve into other things, which I hope will be relevant to the readers. At this point in time too, I'd like to say that I appreciate the readers out there and the feedback I get from time to time. It's because people read this thing that I continue trying to keep it read-worthy.

So let's try this out and see how it goes. Here's hoping it evolves into something that continues to interest you...

KUNMING

Well it appears as if the Chinese censors have UNBLOCKED livejournal for the time being. This is cool, since now I don't have to email posts to my girlfriend or go through unreliable and slow proxy servers.

I am now in Kunming, which is the capital of China's southern Yunnan province. I flew in yesterday from Busan, with a brief stopover in Shanghai. After boarding the plane in Shangers, the sky opened up with solid sheets of rain, beating the roof and wings of the plane. It was a properly huge thunder/rainstorm, and we were stuck on the tarmac for almost three hours as we waited it out. I passed the time by busily reading Christopher Hitchen's anti-religion screed "god is not GREAT" and knocking out a crossword.

I arrived last night and taxi'd it to the hostel where I agreed to meet the boys. They were there, but the joint was booked up, so we hauled our asses across town where we got a room (four beds!) at another place. We broke open the giant bottle of duty free Chivas Regal I brought and then hit a popular local watering hole, where we downed coldish bottles of Carlsburg lager (omnipresent here) and commiserated on our new adventure. We returned to the hotel around one thirty, drank more whisky, and debated religion (iniated by the book I read earlier...).

Kunming is a cool city. It's pleasant, with tree-lined streets and nice new buildings. The people are generally friendly and laid-back, which is nice to see. China is hit and miss with the locals. Sometimes they're nice and sometimes they're nasty. This is one of the "nice" places, or so it seems. Yunnan is China's gateway to Southeast Asia, and you can already get a sense of that from the food and the easy-going nature of the people.

We woke up this morning and took a bus to Xi Shan, a mountain shooting up from the side of Dian Chi, a huge lake which borders the city. We hiked to the top of the mounain and took in the scenery. We ate some noodles with a blistering chili-sauce that is sure to burn the o-ring tomorrow morning.

Tonight we'll chow down on some proper Yunnan cuisine and end the night on a rooftop bar, drinking (hopefully) cold beer. Truly cold beer can sometimes be hard to get in China, as they often pass off lukewarm bottles on desperate tourists.

The weather is warm, but significantly cooler than Korea was. I think this is mainly a result of elevation. We're a bit up, here. There was a fifteen minute thunderstorm today, but other than that, no serious rain.

Tomorrow we're heading south to the Xishuangbanna Region, home of the Dai people, who are evidently ethnic Thais who settled there a long time ago. I sure we'll eat Dai food tomorrow and endure the inevitable "cutlural dance show," repleat with traditionally-costumed, singing children. It's a ten-hour bus ride, but Angry Steve has enough valium to make it an easy ride.

LAST POST IN A NON-TOTALITARIAN STATE

I'm off to China in the morning. I'll be posting through a third party for most of the trip, since livejournal is BLOCKED in China, along with facebook and any/all other "subversive" sites.

What this means is that I will be generally unable to respond to comments, but don't let that stop you from pitchin' in your two cents or abusing this here silly blogger. Anywhow, the material should be juicy; let's hope it passes the censors' muster.

Talk amongst yourselves.

JEJU-DO

I just returned from the requisite trip to Jeju-do, Korea's largest island and southernmost point. I've been here nearly five years and hadn't visited yet, despite the fact that it's only a thirty-minute cheap plane ride from my fair grungy port town. A flight to Jeju is only neglibly more expensive than a train to Seoul, yet I've been to Seoul about ten times now.

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I went with girlfriend Lucie, which is really the way most people visit the isle. Jeju is the honeymoon destination of preference for most Koreans, as it is cheap and near to get to, and offers a bit of difference, while still being withing the comfort zone of Joe and Jane Normal. Think Hawaii for Americans, despite the fact that for the time and expense, most Americans could travel to a cool and crazy foreign country. But Hawaii is said to be absolutley lovely, so that alone is an attraction.

My trip to Jeju was terrific, despite the fact that we went on the tail-end of the rainy season and the weather was bordering on nasty much of the time. The fact is that it only truly rained twice: Once on Saturday night, and pretty much ALL DAY yesterday. Yesterday's rain was not really "rain" in any conventional sense of the word: it was a tropical depression, a monsoon squall, a near-typhoon. Lucie and I drove (we rented a car) to a restaurant about twenty kilometers from our pension/guesthouse located in the hilly countryside, only to see the wind and water increase exponentially as we rounded each corner. The drive back was the hairiest I've yet undertaken, with flooded roads, high-winds, and near-zero visibility. A pure blanket of violent piss slammed our poor little Matiz (think GM Geo Metro) as I limped it back to our lodgings. I've never seen rain so brutal or pure. Islands do suffer the brunt of storms, and last night I felt it first hand. Man oh man, we often underestimate the power of nature unleashed. At least I do.

Jeju was cool - cooler than I expected. It IS Korea but often feels like another place, another country even. It's laid back, clean, beautiful, and generally un-fucked-up. The island is one massive extinct volcano (Hallasan), surrounded by many lesser, long dead craters. During the wet season it's green as it gets, with a black volcanic rock coastline, punctuated by some really lovely little beaches. The air is clean and the vibe - like most islands - is well laid-back. It'd be a great place to live a relaxed life and raise kids. My overall impression was very positive.

This post was originally going to describe the five days I spent there with Lucie, but not a lot needs to be said: We laid around a lot and slept even more; we ate piles of grilled meat and boatloads of raw fish; we drove the backroads and took in the trees, rocks, and strange mountainous formations; we swam in the clean waters - resulting in me nearly BREAKING MY LEFT ARM while bodysurfing on the first day; and we saw strange museums and "theme parks" - some of them truly bizarre, like the following:

LOVE LAND



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Envy?

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Pick your pisser accordingly...

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Loveland proved that the Koreans are still pussyphobic. Despite the sexual trappings, no detailed depictions of vaginas could be found. It's almost as if they'd been blurred out.

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His dog makes him hard.

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The artist was shot before he could really do the snatch.

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I like this one. I'm a sucker for half-shed panties...

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Tit mounds!

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Lucie mounts the biggest cock in The K. Wishful thinking?

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Fingering the eternal clam.

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Big dog dicks were a continual theme.

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Astonished nude roof nymphs.

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One in a series of "ethnic" pieces: Japan.

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Aprika.

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Greece.

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Sportin' "wood." Huhuhuhuhuhuh.

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There it is. The whole burrito.

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This was one of several "humorous signs" up around the joint. This one made it clear that gay sex is frowned upon in Korea's "Loveland." Please.

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This is my favorite series: Terrified SKINNY GUY desperately tries to escape the insatiable maw of the the BIG GIRL.



This. Is. The. Korea.

RIP MERCE CUNNINGHAM

Merce Cunningham, ground-breaking American choreographer, died today. He was 90.

Cunningham, along with composer John Cage, helped to put Cornish (my alma mater) on the map way back in the 30's. They laid the foundation for the experimental and orignal-work emphasis of the school, which to me, has always been its strongest quality. Cornish continually puts out artists who can self-produce.

Cunningham was born and raised in Centralia, Washington, which is a hick lumber town just a stone's throw from Chehalish, Washington, where coincidentally, legendary choreographer Mark Morris grew up, who could be considered an heir to Cunningham. Something in the water?

While I can make no claim to be a fan of modern dance, Cunningham's impact goes well beyond the dance world, and a nod must be made.

Korean Sociological Image #13: The Kiss

It’s amazing how quickly things can change in Korea sometimes. Granted, you’re unlikely to see an eye-catching kiss akin to the above on primetime TV at the moment, but at the rate things are going then it won’t be too much longer. It was only at the end of May that Shin Min-a (신민아) for instance, [...]
  

 

Donghuamen Night Market

Donghuamen Night Market

Throughout our time in Beijing, Sarah and I have been unwittingly drawing comparisons to Tokyo. Where Tokyo was expensive (a ride on the subway usually cost a couple of pounds) Beijing is cheap (20p gets you anywhere.) While free and affordable things to do in Tokyo seem relatively thin on the ground, Beijing heaves to the extent that we decided to extend our visit by two days. And whereas Tokyo is a a street food desert, Beijing has Donghuamen Night Market.


Donghuamen Night Market is probably best known as the place where you can get almost anything on a stick. It's a photogenic playground where one can chow down on black scorpion, nibble on snake or munch your way through a sheep's penis, and then eat testicles for dessert. It’s also home to a plethora of tourist-orientated street food, and whereas in the past I may have gone there in search of adventure, on Sunday night I was just looking for dinner.

I found it. Several times. First up I opted for a beef skewer. These long substantial kebabs cost about 50p each and came grilled and dusted with ground cumin and chilli powder. Having tried the lamb and chicken versions on the nearby Wangfujiing Snack Street, I knew what to expect. The meat was tender and well cooked, while the seasoning not only added flavour but also gave the skewer a wonderfully dry, powdery texture.


A couple of paces later I hit upon some Liangpi, spicy fried noodles. These thick, round noodles had been wok fried with bok choi and soy sauce, then topped with a liberal helping of lajiaojiang (chilli paste.) The noodles were good, red hot and possessed of that curious dry stickiness that seems to be the hallmark of Chinese fried noodles.


Next I found myself transfixed by a massive grill of oysters, The oysters had been halved and topped with diced green chilli, garlic, and what looked liked breadcrumbs. I ordered one, and it made a brief but memorable encounter, with the oyster sea-taste shining through above everything else.

Finally, I settled upon a variation on what the locals call a Beijing Sandwich. These thick pita rolls filled with chopped lamb, garlic and coriander were the subject of many fantasies for Sarah and I prior to coming to Beijing, and we'd almost given up on finding them! I'm glad we did. I'm not the biggest fan of coriander, but in this instance the herb breathed life into what could have been a heavy stodge-wich, while the chilli gave it a little fire to boot.
That was me for the time being. I didn't get to try lobster dumplings, steamed crab, barbecued squid, stir-fried beef wraps etc. I could have eaten a beetle on a stick, but with so much else on offer, why the hell would I want to do that?

창원시

5 Jul 2009, I couldn't imagine a nicer day to go to nearby 창원 Changwon and wander through their many parks and the newly built business district.

Yokjido


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New photoblog from a couple of weeks worth of frivolities, including a trip to Daegu, a day at the beach and a weekend on Yokji Island.

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