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Nasi Goreng: Breakfast of Champions

Years ago, whilst en route to Australia, I had one of the most memorable eating experiences of my life aboard the wonderful Malaysia Air. It was around midnight UK time, but the cabin crew had yanked open the window shutters to the rising sun and announced breakfast.


On the menu was Nasi Goreng, an Indonesian and Malay breakfast staple that generally involves fried rice, egg, chili sauce and occasionally seafood, meat or vegetables. This particular version came with a little portion of curried prawns on the side, and sent my dormant, 18 year old taste buds shooting across continents faster than any jumbo jet.

I’ve carried that experience with me, and was justifiably excited by the prospect of a re-run when we arrived in Malaysia. However, far from recreating that single experience, I’ve discovered that Nasi Goreng, a lot like multi-cultural Malaysia, exists in several different shades held together by a few common denominators.

One of those is sambal, a pungent chilli paste with variations that include prawn paste, lime juice and sugar. Sambal can be a bit much at first, but as with many acquired tastes, perseverance brings with it rich rewards.

Other common denominators include fried rice and eggs. The egg sometimes comes hard boiled, at other times it is fried whole mixed through until barely cooked. Further variations exist with fried anchovies, prawns, sliced cucumber or what ever comes to hand. This is because Nasi Goreng is essentially an economical meal, composed of leftover rice and other odds and ends.

Even presentation is up for grabs. Sometimes it comes in little pyramid shaped banana leaf packages that open to reveal a boiled egg balanced on top of a dollop of sambal and portion of rice. Other times it comes out with the different components separated on the plate, awaiting the judicious application of fork and spoon.

A true breakfast of champions.

Nasi Goreng: Breakfast of Champions

Years ago, whilst en route to Australia, I had one of the most memorable eating experiences of my life aboard the wonderful Malaysia Air. It was around midnight UK time, but the cabin crew had yanked open the window shutters to the rising sun and announced breakfast.



On the menu was Nasi Goreng, an Indonesian and Malay breakfast staple that generally involves fried rice, egg, chili sauce and occasionally seafood, meat or vegetables. This particular version came with a little portion of curried prawns on the side, and sent my dormant, 18 year old taste buds shooting across continents faster than any jumbo jet.


I've carried that experience with me, and was justifiably excited by the prospect of a re-run when we arrived in Malaysia. However, far from recreating that single experience, I've discovered that Nasi Goreng, a lot like multi-cultural Malaysia, exists in several different shades held together by a few common denominators.


One of those is sambal, a pungent chilli paste with variations that include prawn paste, lime juice and sugar. Sambal can be a bit much at first, but as with many acquired tastes, perseverance brings with it rich rewards.


Other common denominators include fried rice and eggs. The egg sometimes comes hard boiled, at other times it is fried whole mixed through until barely cooked. Further variations exist with fried anchovies, prawns, sliced cucumber or what ever comes to hand. This is because Nasi Goreng is essentially an economical meal, composed of leftover rice and other odds and ends.


Even presentation is up for grabs. Sometimes it comes in little pyramid shaped banana leaf packages that open to reveal a boiled egg balanced on top of a dollop of sambal and portion of rice. Other times it comes out with the different components separated on the plate, awaiting the judicious application of fork and spoon.

A true breakfast of champions.

You're Going To Party On A Boat?

Sometimes you have a little too much fun on a Thursday night and then you end up going to bed at 8:30 on a Friday night .... and it is unquestionably worth it.
That was last Thursday.

It started with White Rainbow



..........and then it was followed by Yacht.

YACHT - Psychic City (Voodoo City) from Jona Bechtolt on Vimeo.

Ok .... so maybe I wasn't cool enough to have heard of these bands before the show ... and maybe I spent some time talking to the really cute singer with the cropped bleached hair without realizing she was the main attraction ..... but my socks were thoroughly rocked by the end of the night.


I think the same could be said for everyone.














Destination: Hongneung Arboretum



Across the street from the King Sejong Memorial Hall rests the Hongneung Arboretum. The arboretum is cleverly disguised as the Korea Forest Research Institute, as the focus is more on research than tourism. That explains why it’s only open to the public on Saturdays and Sundays.



Some of the trees in the Conifer garden.

Hongneung is so named because the area was once the tomb of the last Empress. After her tomb was moved elsewhere in 1919, the area became a protected historic forest and Korea’s first arboretum in 1922. Although the area was decimated by the Korean War (only a few relics remain), it was rebuilt in the mid-1960’s with several specialized gardens that still exist today. The result is a much more natural-looking ‘forest’, albeit with a few of life’s modern conveniences. Currently, the area has 14 specialized gardens, with a total of over 2,000 different species in 157 families.



The Forest Science Exhibition Hall – the only open building in the area. Opened on November 6, 1999, this three-story museum is one part commercially oriented (and what isn’t in Korea?), one part preservation oriented, and one part ironic. Is it surprising to anyone else that a forest exhibition hall is made of… wood? Ask for an English-language brochure while here (young-eo an-nae is-so-yo?) - it's the only information in English around. Start on the second floor:



The water cycle displayed with some modern technology - if I seen this when I was a kid I might've paid more attention in science classes...



Edible wild plants and medicinal herbs - while not as common as you might think, you never know what you'll see while meandering about the arboretum.



A few dioramas show how forests and humans form a ‘partnership’ – in other words, the various ways the forest is used by humans.

The third floor holds some more sights and sounds – some motion activated, or in this case, hand-cranked:


Yes, that's a traditional ship's steering wheel attached - turning it either way turned the various 'gears' of nature.

The first floor is chiefly about products made from the forest – reminding me more of a trade fair than a museum:



Several different companies had booths (but no people) showing off their nature-manufactured, human-improved wares.

Having had my fill of museums, it's time to get back into the arboretum. The Deciduous garden was the next one we saw:






Still quite colorful even though it's mid-November.



Excuse us - this is our walking area :)



Despite splitting down the middle, this tree has grown quite tall.

The arboretum offers several different paths – the longest route would probably take a full day to traverse, but we felt quite satisfied with the couple hours spent amidst the trees and shrubs. That there are few signs and only one map posted by the entrance means you’ll need to keep your bearings, or you may find yourself walking longer than anticpated. If you find yourself approaching the closed-off area, it’s time to head back the other way.

It’s one of the most authentic looking and feeling forests within the boundaries of Seoul, even if it is only open on the weekends. Considering how much of what's supposed to be 'natural' seems much more constructed, being authentic is high praise. It’s almost certainly the prettiest during the spring or fall, but even in late fall there was enough to see. There aren't many places to sit down with a picnic, but a resourceful expat can likely make do. Bring a snack or drink - only a few older vending machines with drinks await you once inside.

Directions to Hongneung Arboretum: Take line 6 of the Seoul subway system to the Korea University station. Take exit 3 to street level, and walk for about 50 meters. Cross the first major road you see (Hoegiro), then turn right. Walk under a bridge and past the Korea Institute of Science and Technology. Turn left into the Korea Forest Research Institute after the wooden fence turns into a gate. Free admission; open ONLY on Saturdays and Sundays. Open 10am-5pm from March to October; 10am-4pm from November to February.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:


Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2009

 

Life in Korea: enjoying a Club Night or all-nighter in Hongdae

For my more experienced expat readers: Life in Korea posts are geared towards the newer expats here in Korea. If you have any further advice about the subject, comment away!

Define Club Day
: an opportunity to enter about 20 of Hongdae's clubs on the last Friday of every month. Pay 20,000 won for a free drink ticket and a colored bracelet that gets you into any of the clubs listed on the brochure.

Although not every English teacher in Seoul calls Hongdae a favorite, there are many reasons why it's such a popular place among the younger expat crowd. The creative energy, the artsy community, and the bars and clubs all make up legitimate reasons why this area is so popular. If you find yourself invited or heading to Hongdae for the evening, here's a sample timeline to enjoy the festivities and take back the night.

10pm: Arrive in the Hongdae area (yes, I said arrive - if you're going to try for the all-night life, arriving late is a requirement). Meet up with friends and get dinner - I personally recommend the Mexican restaurant near the Hongdae Park, although many Korean restaurants will offer some great fare as well. Meander around the campus if you like - occasionally there's a soccer game or other activity near the front gate worth checking out.

11pm: Walk towards and around the park - just across the street from Hongik University's front gate proper. Enjoy the sights and sounds that make Hongdae Park such an interesting area. Whether it's a beatboxing trio huddled around a small amplifier or a full-fledged group with a tap-dancing crew to match its jam band, there's bound to be something going on. After moving on, observe the various flows of people - closer to the subway station is a great place to see the early shift of people heading home while another shift of party people make their way up the subway steps.

Midnight: Hit up your first club of choice, buying your Club Day bracelet in front of said establishment. Live music is one highlight of Club Day, although clubs will have live music on most weekend evenings. If not partying on a Club Day, prepare to pay a cover at every place you decide to enter and get a different stamp along the way.

1am: Head out for some street munchies. The side street nearest the park has several to choose from, although most places with a large group of people is bound to have at least one place for munchies. Pop in the closest convenience store for some water. If you need some reasons why food and water are important, observe how many Koreans fail to follow common sense drinking rules on your way.

1:30am: Head into club #2, club #3, and walk around to club #4. Collect stamps on wrists or marvel at how many places the Club Day bracelet works at. Observe drunk people dancing, hitting on other people, passing out or making out - all in the same block or club. As you leave a respective establishment, make sure you have all your belongings with you - the last thing you want to do is leave your cell phone or jacket underneath a bar stool.

3am: By now, most people have hit a wall - not necessarily a alcoholic wall, but a wall where your body simply says it's tired and wishes to retire. Perk it up a little with some water, coffee or a snack - plenty of 24-hour establishments cater to the party crowd. If you're about to pass out or need to crash, find the nearest DVD bang (movie room) and settle into your own personal movie theater. Whether you actually watch the movie or not, the room is yours for the duration of the movie.

4am: Continue watching your movie, or head out and converse with fellow club-goers / partiers, if anyone around you is in the mood for conversation. Almost everyone's buzz has worn off, and going back for seconds / fourths / tenths generally sounds less appealing at this point in the evening.

5am: Pick up a bottle of water and head back to the subway station. Wait with dozens of other expats for the gates to rise. Remember that the first subway may arrive early, but it may not leave for awhile. Observe the subway crowd: most early Saturday / Sunday mornings will feature a crowd of bleary-eyed, overdressed people clearly trying to make their way to a bed. Get home. Sleep.




Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2009

Honeymoon: The L'Arc New World Hotel

If I had to choose between really hot weather or really cold weather, I'd probably choose the former. The main reason being that it's nice to hang out in the street under the shade of a tree. Luckily for us though, Korea has four seasons, as every Korean will tell you.

Just like everywhere else outside the tropics.

The weather in Macau is pretty warm all year round. There are a lot of gathering places like these, where the locals come to sit and talk to each other. It's funny how a location's weather can influence the demeanour of the people. Most Australians from Darwin that I've met are slow-moving and very relaxed, which I think is in part due to the humid weather all year.

Luckily our hotel had a pool that was completely empty. Most of the patrons were busy gambling.

Then it was time to go back to the L'Arc Hotel, which you may remember was recently opened by Peter Ng from Adelaide. The L'Arc is probably a billion dollar venture, complete with hundreds of rooms and a large casino. Peter had told me he was opening a new place in Macau, but when we found it, we were a little awestruck. Those statues are complemented by giant bronze horses on the outdoor suite level.

In the lobby was this large floral arrangement. All the flowers in the hotel are alive, which I confirmed by curious inspection. There's a lot of money flowing around in Macau, and the L'Arc stands out as one of the more opulent hotels.

We had a free dinner at the L'Arc buffet restaurant. I never like to ask old colleagues for freebies, but I'll take a free dinner anytime. Especially when I have a hungry newly-wed nibbling my sleeve.

And of course the buffet had everything you would imagine at a place like that. The plump chef on the right made an excellent laksa. Better than mine, and I've made hundreds. Laksas are easy to make well, but hard to make perfect.

I have a feeling that they'd be really popular in Korea, if you marketed them to students.

Here's Heather, enjoying some desserts. Peter came and ate with us, but he was a busy man and had to leave quickly. He offered us a free stay at the L'Arc, but we politely declined.

I told him he has a nice hotel.

Then Ron took us around with his magic key and let us look in the presidential suite. Ron is our old friend from Busan and was working with Peter there as well. Now he's the director of rooms at the L'Arc, and always has interesting inside stories about hotels. He's also very good at pointing out minor blemishes on things like marble and carpet, which normal people can only see after staring long and hard.

The presidential suite at the L'Arc has multiple bathrooms, a separate kitchen and entrance for the butler, and flat screen TVs that can be summoned from motorized cabinets. As you can imagine, it costs an arm and a leg to stay here. The price wasn't finalized when we were there, but you're looking at around US$20,000.
Per night.

And look, it's me and Heather in there. If I taught English at CDI again for a year and didn't spend anything, I could pay for one night.

And here's our good friend Ron. He's a fun person to know in this part of the world.

Peter gave us a nice bottle of wine that night. If you're heading to Macau and you have money to spend, try heading for the L'Arc hotel. There's good hospitality there.

Then we went out to the MGM Grand. The L'Arc is the biggest hotel in Macau with around 2000 staff, but there are still places with bigger casinos, like the MGM Grand, Wynn's and The Venetian.

This is the back entrance to the MGM Grand. It's like they've created a fantasy Disneyland in most of these places. The reason they do this is for psychological purposes, it helps to get people spending more money. But don't let that stop you admiring the pretty lights.

It's pretty hard to remain unfazed by all of the extravagance in Macau, but Heather did a pretty good job. That's why she's the right one for me.

This is the reception desk. I guess they ran out of money and got kindergarten kids to put the finishing touches on the wallpaper.

Hey look, they even made a statue of my wife.

And if you arrive by car, this is what the valet reception looks like. More like a spaceport than a hotel. If you're tempted to gamble a lot in a nice place like this, just remember why they can afford to build at such epic proportions in the first place.

But I did 'accidentally' end up gambling a little. You only live once.

And this is what the Sands Casino looks like. Hundreds of tables, operating continuously throughout the year, with smoking patrons rolling dice and flipping cards. The free entertainment was nice, but they make terrible cocktails here.

And here's Heather observing the commotion below. She doesn't think much of table games, but took a liking to the slot machines. She likes the pictures that flash up, and her favourite one is called Geisha. My favourite machine is called Double Dolphins, because I like marine biology, and it's remotely educational. Well, not really.

Anyway, more of Macau coming soon...

Chili Crab at Lau Pa Sat

In my last post but one, I described how a certain rancid sea freak had robbed me not only of the contents of my stomach, but also of my taste for Asian food. At the time I was understandably worried – there I was in one of the best food cities in the world and all I could think about was western stodge. After putting up some resistance at first, I followed some sound advice and gave in to my criminal urges. Within a few days, I wolfed down a couple of hamburgers, a hot dog, a KFC zinger burger and a few portions of chips. When I came out the other side, my western fixations were mostly satiated, and I fell straight into the claws of a chili crab.

Chili crab is probably the most famous Singaporean dish. For decades it has had both pincers firmly locked on the city, putting the squeeze on tourists and locals alike with its winning formula of chunky crab meat and rich chili sauce. To even contemplate not having one would have been sacrilege. As such, during my final hours in town I headed down to the wonderful Lau Pa Sat hawker centre in the business district to get myself a great big slice of redemption pie.

My few days on the burger train had set me back a bit, so to make up for lost time I ordered a black pepper crab (another Singaporean institution) and made this a double date. The pair cost a very respectable 32 dollars (about 15 quid) and I even got to inspect the lovelies before they hit the pan. Although not the biggest, these guys were no shrinking violets. Each possessed a couple of mighty, meaty claws and when they finally arrived on my table, dismembered and burning hot on the plate, I knew this was not going to be an easy task.

Like a new jotter in school, it started off neatly enough. I poked and pinched and needled the meat out of the shell like it was precious gold bullion. After a while however, things started to deteriorate. My finger dips into the wash bowl became more infrequent, and (as Sarah had no trouble pointing out) the chili sauce had begun to migrate up my arms and across my face. I was cracking, slurping and biting like a man possessed.

Even making allowances for this notoriously messy dish, I was making an exhibition of myself – and didn’t care. Sarah was wearing an expression of permanent disgust and even the guys that sold me the crab seemed a little horrified. But that didn’t matter. The crab was as plump and full as a country maiden, yielding plenty of firm white flesh to go with the accompanying sauces. Of these the chili sauce really stood out – thick, gloopy and not so spicy as to overpower the crab’s delicate sensibilities.
By the time I was finished all I had left was a pile of shells and a slap happy grin. Roll on final week!

Chili Crab at Lau Pa Sat

In my last post but one, I described how a certain rancid sea freak had robbed me not only of the contents of my stomach, but also of my taste for Asian food. At the time I was understandably worried - there I was in one of the best food cities in the world and all I could think about was western stodge. After putting up some resistance at first, I followed some sound advice and gave in to my criminal urges. Within a few days, I wolfed down a couple of hamburgers, a hot dog, a KFC zinger burger and a few portions of chips. When I came out the other side, my western fixations were mostly satiated, and I fell straight into the claws of a chili crab.

Chili crab is probably the most famous Singaporean dish. For decades it has had both pincers firmly locked on the city, putting the squeeze on tourists and locals alike with its winning formula of chunky crab meat and rich chili sauce. To even contemplate not having one would have been sacrilege. As such, during my final hours in town I headed down to the wonderful Lau Pa Sat hawker centre in the business district to get myself a great big slice of redemption pie.



My few days on the burger train had set me back a bit, so to make up for lost time I ordered a black pepper crab (another Singaporean institution) and made this a double date. The pair cost a very respectable 32 dollars (about 15 quid) and I even got to inspect the lovelies before they hit the pan. Although not the biggest, these guys were no shrinking violets. Each possessed a couple of mighty, meaty claws and when they finally arrived on my table, dismembered and burning hot on the plate, I knew this was not going to be an easy task.

Like a new jotter in school, it started off neatly enough. I poked and pinched and needled the meat out of the shell like it was precious gold bullion. After a while however, things started to deteriorate. My finger dips into the wash bowl became more infrequent, and (as Sarah had no trouble pointing out) the chili sauce had begun to migrate up my arms and across my face. I was cracking, slurping and biting like a man possessed.


Even making allowances for this notoriously messy dish, I was making an exhibition of myself - and didn't care. Sarah was wearing an expression of permanent disgust and even the guys that sold me the crab seemed a little horrified. But that didn't matter. The crab was as plump and full as a country maiden, yielding plenty of firm white flesh to go with the accompanying sauces. Of these the chili sauce really stood out - thick, gloopy and not so spicy as to overpower the crab's delicate sensibilities.
By the time I was finished all I had left was a pile of shells and a slap happy grin. Roll on final week!

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