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Why Small Talk is Different in Korea - Understanding the Culture

This is an aspect of Korean culture I had to learn over time, but Koreans typically don't initiate small talk (or appreciate it) the same way that we do in the US and in many other countries. However, there are many situations where you can do it, and even when they'd appreciate it, but you'll have to learn those before attempting them in order to avoid making others uncomfortable.

I met with Gillian 쌤 and we discussed how to do small talk in Korea, and when to avoid it completely in today's newest "A Glass with Billy" episode.

The post Why Small Talk is Different in Korea - Understanding the Culture appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

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Living History – Peggy McLeod (Peace Corps – 1971)

Peggy McLeod at Her School’s Surprise Good-Bye Party in 1973. (Picture Courtesy of Peggy McLeod).

One of the great things about running a website about Korean Buddhist temples is that you get to meet a lot of amazing people. And a lot of these amazing people have varying backgrounds, interests, and insights. Rather amazingly, some of these people first visited Korea in the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. Here are their stories!

Q1: Where are you originally from? Introduce yourself a little.

A: I’m originally from Jacksonville, Florida, USA. I currently live outside of Asheville, North Carolina, where I settled after returning from Korea in 1973. I’m a retired teacher and school administrator in both the US and international school settings. I retired in 2016. I have two daughters and one grandson. Both of my daughters have visited Korea with me, my younger in 1999 and my older in 2013. 


Q2: When and why did you first come to Korea?

A: I served as a Peace Corps volunteer in Korea from 1971 to 1973. I wanted to serve in the Peace Corps soon after President John F. Kennedy established the program because it promoted peace and mutual understanding among people of all cultures. My majors in college were sociology/anthropology, and the Peace Corps seemed to be the right fit for me after graduation.

While in Korea, I taught English as a Second Language to middle school students in all girls’ schools. I shared classroom instruction with a Korean co-teacher. I also led local and regional teacher workshops and special English clubs for students. 

With school faculty outside the Seokguram Grotto. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).
With students at Bulguksa Temple. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).


Q3: When you first came to Korea what city did you live in? Did you subsequently move around?

A: My first year in Korea, I served in Sangju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. It was a small town at the time, and there was another male volunteer who taught at Sangju Boys’ Middle School, while I taught at Sangju Girls’ Middle School. I lived with a Korean family in a very modest, old traditional Korean style house on the outskirts of town. The family consisted of a mother, a father and three young children. There was also an old grandfather who rented a room in the corner of the yard. I learned nearly everything I know about Korean culture, food, language, customs and family life from my time with this family in Sangju.

My second year in Korea, I served in Daegu at Won Wha Girls’ Middle School. During the summer, and after my first year, I suffered a back injury and was in traction in Severance Hospital in Seoul for two weeks. At that time, it was determined that I would be better off in Daegu, where medical care was more easily accessible, should I need it.

Placement in a rural setting was very isolating for many female volunteers in Korea, and although I maintained a good relationship with my Sangju family, I had more independence and social opportunities in Daegu. I rented a room and an outdoor kitchen there, and I cooked for myself. There was a Peace Corps office in Daegu, so there were opportunities to meet up with other volunteers and expats.


Q4: What was the first temple you visited in Korea?

A: The first temple I visited was Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju. It was on a school trip with dozens of middle school students and teachers, not the most ideal way to see my first temple. In addition, I had only been in Korea for a few weeks, and I was in the midst of serious culture shock! I was having difficulty with the food, the language, the rats in my living space, the outhouse and so many other experiences. The last thing I wanted to do was go on a long school trip by train and bus with the school for a week. But of course it was expected that I join the trip. We toured Gyeongju and Bulguksa Temple. I was even convinced to wake up before dawn and hike with all the students up the mountain to see the Seokguram Grotto, which was completely open to enter at that time. Needless to say, I wouldn’t have wanted to miss that experience!

Unfortunately, the new camera that I purchased in Japan on the way to Korea was left on a city bus in Seoul less than two weeks after I arrived. So I spent two years without a camera. What photos I have were copies given to me by generous friends and colleagues. I have very few photos of temples, but I still have my fading memories.

During that first year in Sangju, I also visited Namjangsa Temple near Sangju with my family.  We hiked to the temple together and I have photos of us on the trail, but not of the temple itself. I remember this being the first time I had an opportunity to truly appreciate the remote beauty of Korean temples.

While living in Daegu, I frequently visited Haeinsa Temple, and it became my favorite temple in Korea.

Peggy McLeod with her Korean mother and children on the walk to Namjangsa Temple. (Picture coutesy of Peggy McLeod).
Peggy with her Korean father on the walk to Namjangsa Temple. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).
Peggy McLeod with female faculty at Jeongnimsa-ji Temple Site in Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).

Q5: What drew your interest to Korean Buddhist temples? (Buddhism, architecture, art, history, etc)

A: I was most interested in the Korean Buddhist temples’ remote and beautiful settings, as well as the ornate and colorful architecture. I came to further appreciate their unique beauty after visiting the less colorful temples in Japan and the gilded temples of Thailand. I particularly appreciate the level of difficulty and commitment it took to reach many of the most remote temples in Korea. However, I also appreciate the somewhat easier access nowadays. 


Q6: What is your favourite temple? Why?

A: My favorite temple is Haeinsa Temple. There is a sense of serenity in the walk from the main road up to the impressive entry gate. The sound of the stream rushing along boulders and the fluttering leaves of the trees that line the entry make it a meditative experience as you approach the temple grounds. The temple grounds are at once impressive and intimate. All buildings are easily accessible and the sight of the Tripitaka Koreana Woodblocks left me speechless with each visit.

I visited Haeinsa Temple numerous times while living in Korea, and also with my younger daughter when I returned in 1999. Back in Peace Corps days a group of us often stayed overnight in the village near the entrance to the temple. We did the same when my daughter and I revisited. I always find great peace when I visit Haeinsa Temple.

Fellow Peace Corps volunteer, Dennis Callahan, at Haeinsa Temple. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).
Fellow pilgrims on the road to Haeinsa Temple. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).
Picnic with Peace Corps volunteers and fellow pilgrims on the road to Haeinsa Temple. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).


Q7: Did you remain in Korea or did you return home?

A: I returned home in 1973 after serving for two years in Peace Corps Korea. I revisited Korea for the first time with my younger daughter in 1999. At that time, she was the same age that I was when I first arrived in Korea, 21 years old. I had lost my Korean language skills over the years, and found it difficult to orient myself with all the changes in Korea from the fast trains, high rise buildings and big cities where villages used to be. I experienced culture shock of a different kind during that visit! When I was not able to find familiar sights in my home town of Sangju, I knew where I needed to go, the temples! So we headed to Gyeongju and then to Haeinsa Temple, where I found the true spirit of Korea, at least for me. It was a wonderful trip overall, but the changes were quite overwhelming.

I was fortunate to bring my older daughter with me on a Peace Corps Korea revisit in 2013. This was a trip arranged by the Korea Foundation and Friends of Korea, and it was a very different experience from my return in 1999. We had translators, and I was able to reconnect with my family and school in Sangju and with a teacher colleague from Daegu and so much more!  While we were not able to return to Haeinsa Temple, we enjoyed exploring Jogyesa Temple, which was a block away from our hotel. It was during their Chrysanthemum Festival, and the temple was highly decorated. It was my daughter’s first encounter with a Korean Buddhist temple and she was enthralled, as was I. 

I have so many fond memories of my time spent living in Korea, and I can say without hesitation that visiting these few Korean Buddhist temples made lasting impressions on me and deepened my appreciation of their cultural and historical influences in Korea. In my mind, they reflect the heart and soul of Korea.

Peggy McLeod’s daughter at Jogyesa Temple in Seoul at the Chrysanthemum Festival in 2013. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).



Frequency Time Words | Live Class Abridged

During the most recent live classroom I taught about more time-related words, including 자주, 잘, 방금 & 금방, (지금) 당장, 가끔(씩), 종종, (때)때로, 즉시 & 즉각 (and more). These words are all related to talking about the time in Korean.

My live stream topics are suggested by channel members and Patreon supporters, so if you'd like to suggest a future live class make sure to let me know~!

The post Frequency Time Words | Live Class Abridged appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong – 제천 장락동 칠층모전석탑 (Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk-do)

The Currently Being Restored “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong” in Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk-do.

Pagoda History

The “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong” is located in eastern Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk-do. And at one point, it belonged to the former Jangnaksa Temple. Now all that remains of the former temple is this beautiful brick pagoda. Jangnaksa Temple was first built during the Three Kingdoms of Korea Period (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.). In total, Jangnaksa Temple was rebuilt a total of five times, and it was a prosperous temple during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). The temple remained as a fully functioning temple until the mid-Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). The temple would eventually fall into disrepair in the 17th century.

An excavation was conducted on the Jangnaksa-ji Temple Site from 2003 to 2008. This excavation revealed many artifacts including roof tiles, earthenware, pottery, clay molds, tombstones, and bronze spoons. In total, there were 34 buildings discovered on the temple site.

As for the “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong,” it’s presumed to have first been built during the 10th century. The pagoda was partially damaged during the Korean War (1950-53), but it was later repaired in 1967-68. And until the recent excavation on the temple site, the “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong” stood in farmland.

The “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong” is Korean Treasure #459.

Pagoda Design

The “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong” is a rare historic brick pagoda that’s one of only about a dozen still in existence in Korea. The pagoda is made of grayish black clay-slate stone that were made into bricks. The very first layer of the stylobate is made from natural stone. And it’s on top of this stone that the seven-story main pagoda of the structure stands. The base has granite pillars on each of the four corners with bricks filling in the caps between these granite pillars. Traditionally, there’s a door fitted inside a niche on both the south and north sides of a brick pagoda. However, the “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong” only has a south side door. The north door, for whatever reason, has long since disappeared. Both the south and east sides of the first story of the structure are heavily damaged. The roof stones covering the centre body stones of the main body are made completely of bricks. The eaves of the roof stones are short and horizontal. And the four edges to these roof stones have holes in them that formerly allowed bells to hung from them. Of the upper portion of the brick pagoda, only the base of the finial still remains.

During restoration work conducted in 1967, a bronze piece engraved with a flower pattern was found on the upper part of the roof stone of the seventh story. It’s assumed to have once been a part of the pagoda’s former finial. Additionally, there are traces of the surface of the pagoda having been plastered in parts. Currently, the “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong” is being restored, once more.

How To Get There

You can simply take a taxi from the Jecheon Bus Terminal to get to the “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong.” The taxi ride will take 8 minutes, or 2.6 km, and it’ll cost you 4,600 won (one way). Or if you’re feeling more adventurous, you can simply walk.

Overall Rating: 4/10

Like all historic brick pagodas in Korea, the “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong” is pretty special. Just for its rarity alone, it’s worth a visit. It’s both beautiful and graceful in its overall design. And next to it are the remains of the Jangnaksa-ji Temple Site, as well as a recently built Jangnaksa Temple. There’s a newly built park that surrounds the entire area, so it can make for a nice afternoon trip.

What the “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong” looked like before the most recent restoration work that’s currently being conducted on the pagoda. (Picture courtesy of CHA).
Unfortunately for me, they were restoring the beautiful brick pagoda.
But you can still see it through the scaffolding and the blue protective barrier meshing.
From a different angle.
The Jangnaksa-ji Temple Site next to the “Seven-Story Stone Brick Pagoda in Jangnak-dong” and the city of Jecheon in the background.
An up-close of one of the former building sites at the Jangnaksa-ji Temple Site.

Seongjuam Hermitage – 성주암 (Gyeongju)

The Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad in Yul-dong at Seongjuam Hermitage in Gyeongju.

Hermitage History

Seongjuam Hermitage is located on the eastern side of Mt. Byeokdosan (437.1 m) in central Gyeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. It’s hard to tell just how old the diminutive hermitage is; however, it’s one striking feature is the Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad in Yul-dong, which is Korean Treasure #122.

The Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad in Yul-dong appears to be from Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). Stylistically, the Buddha triad that appears on the carving is similar to the one found at the Gulbulsa-ji Temple Site also in Gyeongju. The 8th century piece consists of a triad centred by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). This central image is joined on either side by Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Daesaeji-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Power for Amita-bul). This triad was very popular in the 8th century when it was first made. The central image of Amita-bul has a large, bald head. And at the top of its head, it almost appears to be wearing a hat. It has a plump face that’s adorned with a nice smile. As for its hands and its mudra (ritualized hand gesture), Amita-bul has his right hand held to his chest with the index and thumb placed together. As for the accompanying Bodhisattvas, the image of Gwanseeum-bosal appears to be quite feminine. It has a curvy figure with its feet spread to the side. Also, the mudra that Gwanseeum-bosal is making has her right hand held above the shoulders with its thumb and middle finger placed together. And the left hand is holding a treasure bottle. Daesaeji-bosal, on the other hand, is similar in appearance to Gwanseeum-bosal. All three statues have a round halo surrounding each of their heads.

Hermitage Layout

You first approach Seongjuam Hermitage up a set of rural roads that ends at a mountainside road. Standing in the remote hermitage parking lot, you’ll find the trailhead that leads up to the hermitage to the right of the parking lot retaining wall. Through a bend in the trail, and to the left and then right, you’ll see a sign that is the surest indication that you’re nearing Seongjuam Hermitage. The sign that you pass by on your way towards the hermitage describes the history behind the Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad in Yul-dong.

Up this mountain trail for another one hundred metres, you’ll finally come to the outskirts of the hermitage. Uniquely, the first hermitage structure to greet you at Seongjuam Hermitage is the Sanshin-gak Hall. The diminutive shaman shrine hall has a beautiful signboard above the entry. Stepping inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find a beautiful image dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), who almost appears to be making a mudra with his left hand. Meanwhile, the accompanying tiger has the most psychedelic swirling eyes.

To the left of the Sanshin-gak Hall, and up a set of uneven stone stairs, is the hermitage’s two-in-one main hall. This L-shaped structure has the main hall to the right and the monk’s living quarters to the left. Inside this extremely small main hall are a pair of red paintings. The first to the left, and backing the main altar image of an all-white Gwanseeum-bosal, is the Yeongsan Hoesang-do (The Sermon on Vulture Peak Mural). And second, and to the right, is the Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

But it’s to the right rear of the L-shaped main hall that you’ll find the aforementioned Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad in Yul-dong. The carving is a beautiful reminder of Silla Buddhist artistry.

How To Get There

From the Yuldong Train Station in Gyeongju, you’ll need to exit the train station to the south. Along the way, you’ll find a sign that says “경주두대리마애석불입상” on it. These signs are leading you towards the famed Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad in Yul-dong at Seongjuam Hermitage. The trek from the train station to the hermitage is about one kilometre.

Overall Rating: 3.5/10

While smaller in size, the hermitage artwork around Seongjuam Hermitage like the main altar murals inside the main hall and the Mountain Spirit mural inside the Sanshin-gak Hall are beautiful, but it’s the Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad in Yul-dong that distinguishes this little known hermitage in Gyeongju.

The trail leading up to Seongjuam Hermitage.
The Sanshin-gak Hall at the hermitage.
The Sanshin-gak Hall signboard at Seongjuam Hermitage.
The Mountain Spirit mural inside the Sanshin-gak Hall.
The main hall at the hermitage.
A closer look at the L-shaped main hall/monk’s residence at Seongjuam Hermitage.
The central image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) of the The Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Triad in Yul-dong, which is Korean Treasure #122.

Saseongam Hermitage – 사성암 (Gurye, Jeollanam-do)

Saseongam Hermitage in Gurye, Jeollanam-do.

Hermitage History

Saseongam Hermitage is located in Gurye, Jeollanam-do near the peak of Mt. Osan (530 m). This mountain is also known as Mt. Jarasan, which means “Mt. Terrapin” in English, because it closely resembles the shape of a soft-shelled turtle. As a result, Saseongam Hermitage enjoys a beautiful view of the surrounding area that includes the city of Gurye, the Seomjingang River, and Mt. Jirisan (1915 m) off in the distance. Recently, and because of this view, “Saseongam Hermitage and Surroundings” was named as Scenic Site #111 in 2014.

It’s believed that Saseongam Hermitage was first built in 544 A.D. by the monk Yeongi-josa; however, there are no records to support this claim. In addtion, it should be noted that Yeongi-josa is said to have also first built neighbouring Hwaeomsa Temple in 544 A.D., Yeonguksa Temple in 543 A.D., and Munsusa Temple in 547 A.D. When Saseongam Hermitage was first built, it was named Osanam Hermitage, which came from the name of the mountain on which it was built. Throughout the hermitage’s long history, four of Korea’s most preeminent Buddhist monks stayed at the hermitage. These four monks include Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.), Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.), Doseon-guksa (827-898 A.D.), and Hyesim (1178-1234); as such, the name of the hermitage changed to Saseongam Hermitage, which means “Four Sages Hermitage” in English, to honour these four prominent Korean Buddhist monks.

The hermitage buildings at Saseongam Hermitage were reconstructed under the watchful eye of Hyesimin in the 13th century. It was later rebuilt in 1630. And more recently, the hermitage was reconstructed in 1939. This was furthered in the 1980s and 1990s, when Saseongam Hermitage was further renovated and repaired.

Hermitage Layout

You first make your way up to the hermitage grounds past a mountainside tea shop and around a steep bend in the road to the right. Eventually, you’ll come to the outskirts, where you’ll first see the monks dorms through the trees to your left. Continuing up the road, and looking back over your shoulder, you’ll notice the rolling mountains off in the distance and the Seomjingang River down below.

Next up are a pair of buildings to your left before entering the lower courtyard at Saseongam Hermitage. These two buildings are the administrative offices and kitchen area. Immediately overhead, and hovering over top of the entire lower courtyard, is the Yurigwang-jeon Hall (but more on this later). To the right of the administrative offices and kitchen, you’ll notice a row of stone guardian statues. These dozen statues are perched atop a ledge beneath the Yurigwang-jeon Hall. In front of these modern stone guardian statues is an equally modern stone relief dedicated to a triad centred by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise).

There are two stairways that lead to the upper courtyard at Saseongam Hermitage; however, there isn’t a pathway that connects the two areas in the upper courtyard. So to get to the Yurigwang-jeon Hall, which acts as the hermitage’s main hall, you’ll need to take the stone stairs to the right. When you do eventually get to the top of the stairs where the main hall is housed, you’ll get a commanding view of the beautiful mountains below and the river off in the distance. As for the Yurigwang-jeon Hall, it was constructed in 1997. The exterior walls are vibrantly painted in the traditional dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Yurigwang-jeon Hall, you’ll notice the “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha of Saseongam Hermitage,” which is Jeollanam-do Tangible Cultural Heritage #220. This carving is meant to depict an image of Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). According to legend, Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) carved the image of Yaksayeorae-bul with his own fingernails while in a meditative trance. With that being said, what is more likely, and based upon the carving’s design, the carving was made during the 9th or 10th centuries. As for the carving design, it has a large bump on top of its head, which is meant to symbolize the wisdom of the Buddha. Additionally, the carving’s right hand is raised to its chest, while its left hand holds a medicine bowl. A fiery mandorla surrounds both the head and body of the carving. In total, the carving stands 3.9 metres in height.

Making your way back down the stairs, and now heading towards the western staircase to your left, you’ll notice the beautiful underside lotus flower paintings that adorn the Yurigwang-jeon Hall. Making your way up the western stone stairs, you’ll first come to the Nahan-jeon Hall, which is also known as the 53 Buddhas Hall. This Nahan-jeon Hall was first built during the late Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). When you first enter this temple shrine hall, you’ll need to walk to the right before taking your shoes off. Looking to your left, you’ll find 53 images of the Buddha. These statues, like the Nahan-jeon Hall, are believed to date back to the late Joseon Dynasty. In total, there are 53 Buddhas that are meant to represent the long lineage of the Buddhas throughout the entirety of time that includes the Past Buddha (Yeondeung-bul), the Present Buddha (Seokgamoni-bul), and the Future Buddha (Mireuk-bul). While the temple originally had 53 of these statues, including a central golden image of Seokgamoni-bul, twenty of these statues went missing; so in 2020, the twenty missing statues were replaced with twenty new statues of the Buddha. And to your back, facing away from the main altar, there’s a window that has a stunning view of Gurye off in the distance.

To the left of the Nahan-jeon Hall, and ducking your head below the roof-outcropping from the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll make your way towards the Jijang-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the Jijang-jeon Hall are vibrantly painted in dancheong colours with images of Buddhas up near the eaves, as well as the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld) adorning some of the exterior walls. Looking inside the Jijang-jeon Hall, you’ll find a green haired and golden capped image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).

Continuing up the trail to the left of the Jijang-jeon Hall, you’ll find a bronze plate that depicts Saseongam Hermitage, as well as a beautiful stone statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). To the left of these two pieces of Buddhist artwork, you’ll find the Rock of Wishes. This rather non-descript flat rock is believed to grant wishes to those that stand in front of it and pray sincerely. The reason for this belief is that it surrounds a legend about a husband and a wife. According to this legend, there once was a loyal and dedicated wife who had a husband that went to the nearby village to sell rafts. His wife came to this rock to pray for her husband’s safe return; however, the long wait exhausted the wife; so much so, that the wait killed her. When the man finally did return, he found his wife dead. In turn, he, too, died from his grief. I’m not sure how this is related to good luck because it sounds like an extremely unlucky story; but either way, the rock is meant to be lucky.

Around the bend, and next to the Rock of Wishes, you’ll find the Sanwang-jeon Hall nestled between two rocky walls. Formerly, there was a painting housed inside this shaman shrine hall dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). But sometime over the past ten years, the mural was replaced by an intricate wooden relief dedicated to the Mountain Spirit. The shaman deity is joined to the right by a fierce tiger and to the left by three dongja (attendants).

After visiting the Sanwang-jeon Hall, there are two ways you can make your way around the rest of Mt. Osan and Saseongam Hermitage. If you decide to backtrack a bit and head to the left, you’ll get amazing views of the city of Gurye down below, the golden farmers’ fields, and Mt. Jirisan off in the distance. However, if you instead decide to head right and enter a tiny little crack in the mountain wall, you’ll find yourself in the midst of Doseon-gul Cave. The Doseon-gul Cave, which is actually more of a passageway between two large boulders than it is a cave, is said to have once been a place where Wonhyo-daesa came to meditate. And then two hundred years later, it’s believed to have been a place where Doseon-guksa lived for a short period of time while contemplating the theory of Pungsu-jiri; for which, Doseon-guksa is renowned. And midway through the Doseon-gul Cave, you’ll find an elevated metal shrine with numerous candles burning on it.

How To Get There

The easiest and simplest way to get to Samseongam Hermitage is to take a taxi from the Gurye Intercity Bus Terminal. The ride will take about 14 minutes, over 7.7 km, and it’ll bring you right up to the hermitage. The taxi ride will cost you about 15,000 won (one way). And if traveling in a group, this might be the most economical, as well.

Overall Rating: 9/10

Saseongam Hermitage is one of those hermitage (or temples for that matter) that grabs your attention and sets you adrift with its amazing views. Outside its amazing views that have over a 180 degree panoramic view of the area, it has the stunning Yurigwang-jeon Hall that rests upon three large pillars. The main hall at Saseongam Hermitage almost looks partially suspended midair. In addition to these two amazing features, you can also enjoy the view from inside the Nahan-jeon Hall, as well as the artwork inside the Jijang-jeon Hall, the Nahan-jeon Hall and the Sanwang-jeon Hall. There’s also the natural features of the Doseon-gul Cave and the Rock of Wishes, as well. Saseongam Hermitage is a beautiful blend of natural beauty and Buddhist artistry and architecture and shouldn’t be overshadowed by the neighbouring temples and hermitages in the Jirisan region.

The suspended Yurigwang-jeon Hall as you first enter the lower courtyard at Saseongam Hermitage.
A look towards the left part of the lower courtyard at the hermitage with the administration office and Nahan-jeon Hall overhead.
A look up at the suspended Yurigwang-jeon Hall and a dozen stone guardian statues below it.
The view that the stone guardians get to enjoy.
As you near the Yurigwang-jeon Hall from the side-winding set of stairs.
The view from the main hall.
The “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha of Saseongam Hermitage” inside the Yurigwang-jeon Hall.
A look up at the Nahan-jeon Hall from the set of stone stairs to the left of the main hall.
A look inside the Nahan-jeon Hall at the main altar.
A look up at the Jijang-jeon Hall to the left of the Nahan-jeon Hall.
The main altar inside the Jijang-jeon Hall.
A modern stone statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) next to the Rock of Wishes (left).
The Sanwang-jeon Hall with a wood relief dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside it.
A realistic image of a tiger that adorns the left exterior wall of the Sanwang-jeon Hall.
A look through the Doseon-gul Cave.
And one final look up at the gravity-defying Yurigwang-jeon Hall.

Learn Korean Ep. 129: ~군, ~구나, ~구먼 “Oh my!”

Keykat says she suddenly wants to change her hair style, but I don't know why. Oh well....

I wanted to make a lesson about ~군, and this video covers 군(요), 구나, 구먼, and 구만 - all of the most common ones. Also the PDF version (below) covers additional ones including ~더군 and more.

Also make sure to get your free PDF version of this lesson (and every lesson in the "Learn Korean" series) by clicking the download link right below this video~!

Click here to download a free PDF of this lesson!

The post Learn Korean Ep. 129: ~군, ~구나, ~구먼 “Oh my!” appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

Living History – Steve Moore (Peace Corps – 1967)

Steve Moore in front of a Statue of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva Compassion) at Sudeoksa Temple near Mangong’s (1871-1946) Hut in 1968. (Picture Courtesy of Steve Moore).

One of the great things about running a website about Korean Buddhist temples is that you get to meet a lot of amazing people. And a lot of these amazing people have varying backgrounds, interests, and insights. Rather amazingly, some of these people first visited Korea in the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. Here are their stories!

1. Where are you originally from? Introduce yourself a little.

I’m originally from the Pacific Northwest, raised and educated in Oregon and Washington. I have a BA in history from the University of Oregon and an MA in East Asian Studies from the University of Washington. I worked for two years after college as a middle school English teacher in Korea with the Peace Corps, followed by four years as a social studies/Korean Culture teacher at DODDS schools in Seoul and Yokohama/Yokosuka.

2. When and why did you first come to Korea?

I first came to Korea in June, 1967 as a Peace Corps volunteer. After 6-weeks training at Yonsei University, I was assigned as an English teacher at a rural middle school.

3. When you first came to Korea what city did you live? Did you subsequently move around?

I lived in the rural farming community of Yesan, Chungcheongnam-do. After one year, I transferred to the city of Cheonan, also in Chungcheongnam-do.

4. What was the first temple you visited in Korea?

During my 6-weeks training at Yonsei, I and a fellow trainee visited Sudeoksa Temple. Coincidentally, I was later assigned to Yesan, which was just a few miles from that temple.

Sudeoksa Temple during Buddha’s Birthday celebrations in 1967. (Picture courtesy of Steve Moore).

5. What drew your interest to Korean Buddhist temples?

As an historian, I was drawn by the history and secondarily by Buddhism, a religion about which I knew next to nothing. I was also interested in the art and architecture of the temples.

6. What is your favourite temple? Why?

Hard to choose since I’ve visited so many over the years, but I guess it would be Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto; the latter being unique among the temples I’ve visited. One can’t help but be impressed by the scale of Bulguksa Temple and its magnificent façade.

Yesan Middle School staff at Bulguksa Temple in 1967. (Picture courtesy of Steve Moore).
Yesan Middle School students with Steve Moore at Bulguksa Temple in front of the Daeung-jeon Hall in 1967, as well. (Picture courtesy of Steve Moore).

7. What temple or hermitage has changed the most from when you were first got here? What has changed about it?

Tough question as nearly all Korean temples have undergone major restoration in the past six decades.  Perhaps Haeinsa Temple has changed the most. In the 60’s and 70’s, despite its historic and cultural significance, it was remote and rather difficult to get to. Becoming part of a national park, it is now easily accessed and thoroughly made visitor friendly, with all of the secondary buildings restored and in some cases rebuilt. A close second might be Jeondeungsa Temple on Ganghwa Island, which was almost as remote as Haeinsa Temple. I visited the temple last fall and found it totally transformed and almost completely unrecognizable. By the way, not only has the government invested a lot in these temples, but Buddhists are now quite rich (and politically influential).

8. What was the most difficult temple to get to? How did you get there?

Haeinsa Temple and Seokguram Grotto. The former accessed by bus up a narrow and sometimes steep dirt road. Seokguram Grotto, on the other hand, required a hike up a direct road at dawn to see (or not) the sunrise on the East Sea.

9. Did you remain in Korea or did you return home?

I stayed in Korea 1967-71 and then returned numerous times over the years, including an assignment in the Foreign Service to the US Embassy in Seoul (1994-97).

Steve Moore in Korea during his time in the country from 1967-71. (Picture courtesy of Steve Moore).

Deokjusa Temple – 덕주사 (Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk-do)

The Bell Pavilion and Mt. Woraksan at Deokjusa Temple in Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk-do.

Temple History

Deokjusa Temple is located in Jecheon, Chungcheongbuk-do in the southern foothills of Mt. Woraksan (1,095.3 m) up a long valley. According to legend, Deokjusa Temple was first built in 587 A.D. Additionally, and also according to this legend, Princess Deokju, who was a Silla princess, and one of the children of King Gyeongsun of Silla (r. 927-935 A.D.), built the temple. King Gyeongsun of Silla was the final ruler of the Silla Kingdom (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). King Gyeongsun of Silla was placed on the thrown by Gyeon Hwon (892-934 A.D.), who was the founder of Later Baekje (892–936). When Gyeon Hwon’s army sacked Gyeongju in 927 A.D., they found King Gyeongae of Silla (r. 924-927 A.D.) having a party at Poseokjeong Pavilion. Rather than surrender, the king killed himself. It was only then that Gyeon Hwon placed King Gyeongsun of Silla on the throne in place of the former Silla king. Because of its already weakened state, King Gyeongsun of Silla reigned over a tiny portion of the former Silla lands, until he eventually abdicated his throne in favour of King Taejo of Goryeo in 935 A.D.

Disappointed and devastated by his father’s actions, Crown Prince Maui and his sister Princess Deokju fled to the southern mountains of Jeollanam-do. From here, they would attempt to make their way up to Mt. Geumgangsan to hide. Along the way, Crown Prince Maui, Princess Deokju, and their party came to the present location of where Deokjusa Temple is located on Mt. Woraksan. It was here that they could see the Big Dipper. Finding that the energy of Mt. Woraksan was similar to that of Mt. Geumgangsan, they decided to make the “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha of Deokjusa Temple.” This carving was made to face the “Stone Standing Buddha in Mireuk-ri,” which was purportedly made by Crown Prince Maui. The two are some six kilometres from the other. While the “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha of Deokjusa Temple” faces to the south, the “Stone Standing Buddha in Mireuk-ri” faces the north. It’s said that Princess Deokju spent the rest of her life missing her brother, Crown Prince Maui, who died poor on Mt. Geumgangsan.

Based upon the stone pagoda at the original Deokjusa Temple site, as well as roof tiles that were discovered in the same area, both date back to around the early Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). As a result, and based upon this evidence, it’s believed that Deokjusa Temple was actually first founded at this time. Another thing to support this claim are the historical records about Deokjusa Temple. According to these records, the first hall at Deokjusa Temple was built by the monk Gwano (1096-1158). It’s also believed that Deokjusa Temple had a connection to the royal family during the early Goryeo Dynasty, as well.

As early as the Goryeo Dynasty, but definitely by the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the temple was divided into an upper and lower temple that were known as Sangdeokjusa Temple and Hadeokjusa Temple. Additionaly, and based upon historical records, the temple was situated in a strategic location that helped defend and supply the region, as well.

Deokjusa Temple was completely destroyed during the Korean War (1950-53). In 1963, the temple was rebuilt in its current configuration and location to the south of the original temple site by about 1.7 km. Later, and in 1970, the temple was expanded. The “Standing Stone Yaksa Buddha Statue,” which had formerly been located in a different part of Jecheon was relocated and enshrined in the current Yaksa-jeon Hall at Deokjusa Temple. Then in 1998, the Daeungbo-jeon Hall was built. Sadly, part of the temple, once more, was destroyed by fire in 2009. The temple was restored in 2011.

Deokjusa Temple is home to a single Korean Treasure, which is located in the original temple site some 1.7 km from the current temple’s location. This Korean Treasure, which is Korean Treasure #406, is “Rock-carved Standing Buddha of Deokjusa Temple.”

Temple Layout

You first make your way up the long Deokju Valley on your way to the temple. Eventually you’ll come to the temple parking lot, which is located just out in front of the entry to Woraksan National Park. To the left, and then to the right, you’ll make your way up a side-winding road.

The first thing to greet you on the temple grounds is the “Monument with Sanskrit Inscription in Songgye-ri, Jecheon,” which is housed inside a wooden pavilion. This monument is presumed to have been made during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). The large flat stone is inscribed with Sanskrit. Rather interestingly, it’s the only historic monument written in Sanskrit in Korea. The monument is now largely faded. The monument was discovered in 1988 during some road repair work near Songgye Valley. It was subsequently moved to Deokjusa Temple. The Sanskrit inscription is the text from the Surangama Sutra (The Sutra of the Heroic One), or “Daebuljeongsuneungeomgyeong – 대불정수능엄경” or simply “Neungeomgyeong – 능엄경” in Korean. In total, there are 105 Sanskrit letters on the monument. “Monument with Sanskrit Inscription in Songgye-ri, Jecheon” is Chungcheongbuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage #231.

To the left of the “Monument with Sanskrit Inscription in Songgye-ri, Jecheon” wooden pavilion is a rather atypical open pavilion dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). This slightly elevated open wooden pavilion is the temple’s Sanshin-gak Hall. Like the Sanshin-gak Hall itself, the image inside this pavilion is rather atypical, as well. The stone relief of Sanshin is wedged between two large mountain rocks.

To the right of both of these structures is the Daeungbo-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the main hall are adorned with a variety of murals that include the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals), the Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life), Wonhyo-daesa and Uisang-daesa, and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). Stepping inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a large triad of statues on the main altar. In the centre rests Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy). This central image is joined on either side by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and Nosana-bul (The Perfect Body Buddha). Also housed inside the main hall is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

Directly in front of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall is the Jong-ru Pavilion that houses a solitary bronze bell. It’s not too large or small, but it seems to perfectly fit the wooden pavilion that it’s housed in. And to the left of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall is a baby Buddha statue, as well as a deck that looks out on the neighbouring mountains.

Beyond the Jong-ru Pavilion, and down a pathway, you’ll find a second temple courtyard. Between the first and second temple courtyard, and looking down, you’ll notice a modern stone statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha). The first of the two structures in the second temple courtyard is a wooden pavilion that houses the “Stone Standing Bhaisajyaguru Buddha of Deokjusa Temple,” which is Chungcheongbuk-do Tangible Cultural Heritage #196. This statue is presumed to have first been made during the Goryeo Dynasty. The statue of Yaksayeorae-bul holds a medicine bowl in its left hand. The statue was originally discovered at the Jeonggeumsa-ji Temple Site. The head of the Buddha is disproportionately larger than the rest of its body. And the folds on the Buddha’s robe are softly carved. Overall, except for the lower part of the statue, it’s been well-preserved.

To the right of this pavilion is the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with murals dedicated to the Bodhidharma, the moktak tale, and other various Buddhist themed murals. Stepping inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall, you’ll find an image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) on the main altar joined by two statues of female lions.

Finally, and 1.7 km away and up a hiking trail, is the “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha of Deokjusa Temple.” The large statue, which is carved on the southern part of a granite wall, stands 13 metres in height. The face is carved so as to stick out from the rock face, while the body is carved in simple lines. The relief has a chubby face with elongated eyes, a large nose, and a hanging chin. This exaggerated design is common of large Buddha statues and reliefs from the Goryeo Dynasty. This relief was made during the early Goryeo Dynasty, possibly as early as the eleventh century. This is the only Korean Treasure at Deokjusa Temple.

How To Get There

From the Jecheon Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #982 or Bus #980. After 81 stops, yes 81 stops, or one hour and forty minutes, you’ll need to get off at the “Deokju-gol – 덕주골” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk about 20 minutes, or 1.3 km, to get to Deokjusa Temple.

Overall Rating: 7/10

Deokjusa Temple is beautifully located on Mt. Woraksan. In addition to all of this natural beauty, have a look inside the three wooden pavilions at Deojusa Temple. They house a beautiful Goryeo-era statue of Yaksayeorae-bul, the only historical monument with Sanskrit writing on it, as well as the rather atypical Sanshin-gak Hall. The artwork inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall is beautiful, as is the artwork that adorns both the exterior of the main hall and the Gwaneum-jeon Hall. But the main highlight to Deokjusa Temple is the mountainside “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha of Deokjusa Temple” that’s located some 1.7 km from the modern location of the temple; however, it’s well worth the hike.

Mt. Woraksan off in the distance.
The wooden pavilion that houses the “Monument with Sanskrit Inscription in Songgye-ri, Jecheon.”
A look at the “Monument with Sanskrit Inscription in Songgye-ri, Jecheon.”
The Sanshin-gak Hall at Deokjusa Temple.
The stone relief dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit).
The Daeungbo-jeon Hall at Deokjusa Temple.
One of the Palsang-do murals that adorns the main hall.
The bronze bell inside the Jong-ru Pavilion.
The baby Buddha with Mt. Woraksan in the background.
The “Stone Standing Bhaisajyaguru Buddha of Deokjusa Temple.”
The Gwaneum-jeon Hall (left).
The Bodhidharma painting that adorns the Gwaneum-jeon Hall.
The main altar inside the Gwaneum-jeon Hall.
The “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha of Deokjusa Temple.” (Picture courtesy of CHA).

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