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Yeonmisa Temple – 연미사 (Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

The “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong” at Yeonmisa Temple in Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

Temple History

Yeonmisa Temple, which means “Swallow Tail Temple” in English, is located in northern Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. It’s believed that the temple was first founded in 634 A.D. by the monk Myeongdeok and then rebuilt twice. After its founding, very little is known about the temple’s history. During the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the area that Yeonmisa Temple is located was a popular place for officials traveling in the area between provinces. This area is now known as Jebiwon.

During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the temple fell into disrepair. It was only later, and during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45), that Yeonmisa Temple was rebuilt in 1918. The temple was rebuilt on the former site of Yeonmisa Temple. And it was further restored in both 1943 and 1947. In 1978, the Daeung-jeon Hall was extended and the temple paintings were added in 1986. Now the temple is run by nuns.

Yeonmisa Temple is also home to the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong,” which is Korean Treasure #115. According to a legend, the Buddha carving was commissioned by a famous mason. However, his student was more skilled. So one day, while the student was working on the relief, the teacher removed the ladder. Then the master turned into a swallow and flew away up into the sky. This is one source of the temple’s name. Another legend has it that the Yosache (monks’ dorms) was located to the rear of the relief, which made it look like a swallow’s tail.

The “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong” in 1933. (Courtesy of the National Museum of Korea).
Just the damaged head of the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong” in 1933. (Courtesy of the National Museum of Korea).

Temple Layout

As you approach the temple grounds, you’ll notice that there are a collection of buildings at Yeonmisa Temple. In the centre of these buildings is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to the Daeung-jeon Hall are adorned with the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Additionally, the front floral latticework is stunning. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, and resting on the main altar, are a triad of statues centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is joined on either side by statues of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). To the right of this triad is an orangish painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). And to the left of the main altar are two additional murals. One of these paintings is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars), while the other is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall are a collection of buildings that include the nuns’ dorms, administrative offices, and the temple parking lot. But it’s to the left of the main hall, and down a short path, that you’ll find the main highlight at the temple: the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong.” Along the way, there are several smaller statues of various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, as well as a coin collecting statue of a jovial Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag).

Finally arriving at the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong,” which is also known as the “Jebiwon-seokbul,” you’ll find yourself looking up at the 12.38 metre tall image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). The image was created in two parts. This was a common method done during the Goryeo Dynasty. The head of Amita-bul was first sculpted and then attached to the image carved on the rock wall. The back of the head of the statue was completely destroyed; however, the front of the head was left intact. The protruding part on top of the Buddha’s head, which symbolizes supreme wisdom, is relatively high. It has long eyes and thick lips that are serenely smiling. Despite its large size and large body, the statue is well-balanced.

The image of Amita-bul stands on a lotus pedestal. There are folds in the robe, and it covers both of the shoulders to the statue of Amita-bul. The index fingers and middle fingers of each hand are placed together. The left hand is placed on its chests, while the right hand is situated on the stomach. There is still a little bit of orange paint left on the head, which indicates that the statue used to be painted (at least in part). It’s believed that the image was carved sometime in the 11th century. This style of large Buddha statues was a dominant style of folk Buddha statues created during the Goryeo Dynasty.

You can get a better idea of the full size of the statue, if you stand in the nearby park at some distance. It’s also at the base of the rock that somewhat obscures the full image of the statue that you can read an inscription that reads “이미타불” (Amita-bul).

How To Get There

To get to Yeonmisa Temple from the Andong Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #56. After 13 stops, or 22 minutes, you’ll need to get off at the “이천동 석불상하차 – Icheon-dong Seokbulsang” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk about 200 metres, or 5 minutes, to get to the temple grounds.

You can take a bus, or you can simply take a taxi from the Andong Intercity Bus Terminal to get to Yeonmisa Temple. The ride should take about 12 minutes and cost about 9,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 6/10

By far, the main highlight at Yeonmisa Temple is the impressive “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong.” Standing over 12 metres in height, comprised of two pieces, and dating back to the Goryeo Dynasty, it’s no wonder that this image of Amita-bul is the central highlight to any visit to Yeonmisa Temple. Other things to keep a look out for is the artwork around the Daeung-jeon Hall, as well as the image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the main hall and the floral latticework outside the main hall.

The signboard for the Daeung-jeon Hall at Yeonmisa Temple.
Some of the floral latticework that adorns the main hall.
And one of the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) that adorns the exterior of the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The main altar inside the Daeung-jeon Hall.
The mural of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the main hall.
The pathway leading towards the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong.”
Rounding the corner to see the 12 metre tall “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong.”
From a distance.
And a bit closer look at the “Rock-carved Standing Buddha in Icheon-dong.”

Billy Go’s Korean Conversation Course | #9: Friend – 친구

This is my FREE video course for intermediate level Korean learners, and there are a total of 20 episodes. Here's lesson #9 - we're almost halfway finished!

This lesson is about two friends who meet after having not seen each other for a long time.

The post Billy Go’s Korean Conversation Course | #9: Friend – 친구 appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

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Cheonjaam Hermitage – 천자암 (Suncheon, Jeollanam-do)

The 800 Year Old Chinese Junipers at Cheonjaam Hermitage in Suncheon, Jeollanam-do.

Hermitage History

Cheonjaam Hermitage, which is located on the Songgwangsa Temple grounds in western Suncheon, Jeollanam-do, is situated near the peak of Mt. Cheonjaamsan (757.4 m) to the southwest. It’s believed that the hermitage was first established by Damdang-guksa (1226-1293), who was the ninth of sixteen “guksa” (national preceptors) from Songgwangsa Temple. Additionally, he was a prince of Goryeo (918-1392).

After its founding, the monk Seolmuk reconstructed the hermitage in 1633. Later, it would be rebuilt, once more, this time by the monk Jiwon in 1730. In 1740, the Manse-ru Pavilion was built. In 1882, the Chilseong-gak Hall was built. And in 1939, the Geumdang Hall was built. Construction on the hermitage grounds continues to the present day.

Cheonjaam Hermitage is home to one Natural Monument. It’s the 800 year old “Pair of Chinese Junipers at Cheonjaam Hermitage of Songgwangsa Temple.” They are Natural Monument #88.

A painting of Damdang-guksa (1226-1293), the founder Cheonjaam Hermitage. (Picture courtesy of the KHS).

Hermitage Layout

You first approach Cheonjaam Hermitage up a long, winding mountain road. Part of this mountain road has been repaved, and other parts of the mountain road need to be repaved. Nearing the hermitage grounds, you’ll notice the Samseong-gak Hall on the hillside. To gain access to this shaman shrine hall, you’ll need to pass by the monks’ dorms to your right, as you enter the main hermitage courtyard at Cheonjaam Hermitage.

Straight ahead of you is the Eungjin-jeon Hall that’s joined to the left by the 800 year old Chinese junipers. Typically, Chinese junipers grow on Ulleung-do Island, in central Korea, and parts of Japan. These juniper trees have a strong scent that’s used in making incense. These pair of Chinese juniper trees are about twelve metres in height and are 4.1 metres and 3.3 metres, respectively, around. According to legend, these junipers grew from the walking sticks of Bojo-guksa (1158–1210) and Damdang-guksa (1226-1293). Purportedly, both monks brought these walking sticks back from China and stuck them into the ground at the hermitage. Additionally, Damdang-guksa was a disciple of Bojo-guksa. As a result, it’s said that these trees look like one is bowing down to the other much like a student would towards his teacher. It’s also said that anyone that touches these trees will go to heaven. The pair of Chinese juniper trees are stunning. And now, there is a smaller sized modern statue of Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) that rests at the base of the 800 year old juniper trees.

To the right of the ancient trees is the Eungjin-jeon Hall. The exterior walls to this shrine hall are adorned with images of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom), Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power), Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife), and Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Stepping inside the Eungjin-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This triad rests underneath a large, red canopy. And on either side of the main altar, you’ll find sixteen Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) statues. These sixteen statues are then backed by murals of the Nahan, as well. And hanging on the far right wall is a painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). This painting is then fronted by a newer-looking statue of the Lonely Saint.

To the rear of the Eungjin-jeon Hall, and over a newly constructed stone bridge, you’ll find the aforementioned Samseong-gak Hall. However, while the signboard above the shaman shrine hall details the shrine hall as a Samseong-gak Hall, it’s functionally a Sanshin-gak Hall. Typically, a Samseong-gak Hall would be occupied by three shaman deities that are typically Chilseong (The Seven Stars), Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), and Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). However, this shaman shrine hall is only occupied by a painting of Sanshin. This painting is then fronted by two statues. The central image is that of Sanshin, while the statue to the left is that of Yongwang (The Dragon King).

To the left of both the historic Chinese juniper trees and the Eungjin-jeon Hall, you’ll find the largest building at Cheonjaam Hermitage. This is the structure that houses both the administrative offices at the hermitage, as well as the main hall, the Beopdang Hall. Stepping inside the Beopdang Hall, you’ll find an understated triad of statues underneath an equally understated all-natural wood canopy. The central image of the triad is dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul, who is joined on either side by statues dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal and Jijang-bosal. To the left of the main altar is a painting dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal, while to the right is a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

Out in front of the Beopdang Hall is what looks to be the Manse-ru Pavilion. However, there was construction being done at the hermitage when I visited, so this structure was closed-off to the general public. Finally, and to the left of the Beopdang Hall, you’ll find a small collection of buildings that include the kitchen facilities at the hermitage.

How To Get There

There is no easy way to get to this rather remote hermitage. Outside of owning your own mode of transportation, the only other realistic way of getting to Cheonjaam Hermitage is by taxi. From the Suncheon Intercity Bus Terminal, it’ll take 45 minutes, over 46 km, and it’ll cost you around 50,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 5/10

Cheonjaam Hermitage is situated beautifully in Jogyesan Provincial Park. In addition to where it’s located, the hermitage has a pair of stunning 800 year old Chinese junipers. These might be the oldest trees that I’ve seen in my life. Also, you can enjoy the interior of the Eungjin-jeon Hall, as well as the interior of the Beopdang Hall. But the two main highlights at the hermitage are its location and its trees.

The Samseong-gak Hall that welcomes you to Cheonjaam Hermitage.
A tiger and hermitage painting that adorns one of the exterior walls of the Samseong-gak Hall.
A look inside the shaman shrine hall at a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) and two statues: one dedicated to Yongwang (The Dragon King) and the other to Sanshin.
The Eungjin-jeon Hall joined by the 800 year old pair of Chinese juniper trees to the left.
A look inside the Eungjin-jeon Hall.
With a statue and a painting of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) inside the Eungjin-jeon Hall, as well.
A closer look at the pair of ancient Chinese juniper trees with an image of Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) at their base.
The closed-off entry of Cheonjaam Hermitage.
The entry to the Beopdang Hall.
And the stunning view from the hermitage grounds.

When to Use Pure Korean or Sino Korean Numbers | Korean FAQ

Ever wondered whether to use Sino Korean numbers (일, 이, 삼...) or Pure Korean numbers (하나, 둘, 셋...) when counting something? In this newest episode I share some tips for knowing which to use, and how you can more easily tell whether to use Pure Korean or Sino Korean numbers.

The post When to Use Pure Korean or Sino Korean Numbers | Korean FAQ appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

Haeunsa Temple – 해운사 (Gumi, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

Haeunsa Temple on Mt. Geumosan in Gumi, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

Temple History

Haeunsa Temple is located on the northern part of Mt. Geumosan (976.5 m) in western Gumi, Gyeongsangbuk-do. It’s believed that Haeunsa Temple was first founded by the famed monk Doseon-guksa (827-898 A.D.) at the end of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). When the temple was first established, it was named Daehyeolsa Temple. During the late Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the Korean official-scholar Gil Jae (1353-1419) of the Goryeo Dynasty and early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) hid in this area and planted bamboo. While hiding at the temple, he is said to have learned Taoism, as well.

Sadly, and during the Imjin War (1592-98), all the buildings at the temple were destroyed. In fact, and near Haeunsa Temple, there’s a cave known as Doseon-gul. The cave is named after Doseon-guksa, the founder of the temple. It’s stated that between 500 to 600 people stayed in this cave while fleeing the Japanese invading forces in 1592 during the Imjin War.

It wasn’t until 1925 that the temple was rebuilt, once more, this time by the monk Cheolhwa, who renamed the temple as Haeunsa Temple. The Daeung-jeon Hall at Haeunsa Temple was built in 1956. The rest of the buildings at Haeunsa Temple were rebuilt from 1978-84 by the monk Seonghwa.

Temple Layout

After taking the cable car that brings you halfway up the mountain, you’ll then need to exit the cable car building to the west. Heading in this direction, you’ll come to a small collection of large cairn-like pagodas. It’s to the west of these stone pagodas that you’ll find the compact Cheonwangmun Gate. Housed inside this entry gate are four images of the Four Heavenly Kings. The exterior walls of the Cheonwangmun Gate are adorned with intricate dancheong, as well as images of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors).

Nearing the main temple courtyard, the first building to greet you is the Jijang-jeon Hall. Having entered the main temple courtyard, you’ll find the Jijang-jeon Hall to your right. Alone on the main altar inside this temple shrine hall is large golden image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife). To the left and right of the main altar are large paintings dedicated to Jijang-bosal, as well.

To your rear is the compact Jong-ru Pavilion that houses a solitary bronze bell. And to your far left, you’ll find the administrative offices and kitchen facilities at Haeunsa Temple. Straight ahead of you, on the other hand, is a bronze statue of Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag). I’ve seen the exact same statue at both Dorisa Temple and Yongmunsa Temple.

Up a flight of stairs, you’ll come to the Daeung-jeon Hall at Haeunsa Temple. The exterior walls are painted gold and are adorned in cute Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). The reason I say cute is that instead of having a younger ox-herder, the paintings are populated by images of three ox-herding children. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a triad of statues under a large, golden canopy. In the centre of this triad rests an image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by statues of Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). To the left of the main altar is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural), while to the right is an equally modern mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars).

To the right rear of the main hall, and up a longer set of stairs, you’ll find the Sanshin/Dokseong-gak Hall. Looking inside this shaman shrine hall, you’ll find a large statue dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) on the main altar. Backing this statue are two paintings dedicated to two shaman deities. The first of the two, and hanging to the right, is a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), who is accompanied by puggish-looking tiger. And to the left is an equally elaborate painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).

To the left of the Sanshin/Dokseong-gak hall, and down a small mountain trail behind the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find an opening, where there’s a nine-story pagoda with a golden finial atop this stone structure. The base of the structure has nine reliefs of Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). As for each of the nine-stories of the structure, they have diminishing images of various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas adorning them as the pagoda moves upwards. Backing this pagoda is a larger statue dedicated to Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha). This statue is then backed by reliefs of Bodhisattvas like Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Jijang-bosal, as well as images of the Four Heavenly Kings. It’s also from this vantage point that you get beautiful views of Mt. Geumosan off in the distance.

If you have the time and stamina, you can also enjoy Doseon-gul Cave to the southwest of the temple grounds. It’s under 100 metres to get there. And if you really have the time and stamina, you can continue southwest for about 200 metres to see Myeonggeum-pokpo Waterfall.

How To Get There

There are numerous buses that go from the Gumi Intercity Bus Terminal to get to Haeunsa Temple. There are buses like Bus #10, #11, #184, and #195. These buses will drop you off at the “Daegu Eunhaeng-ap hacha – 대구은행앞 하차” bus stop. The bus ride will take just 5 minutes. From here, you’ll then need to cross the road to the south and get on either Bus #27 or Bus #27-3. You’ll then need to get off at the “Geumosan-chulbal hacha – 금오산출발 하차” bus stop. This bus ride should take you an additional 7 minutes. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head southwest towards Mt. Geumosan. You’ll need to head in this direction for about 500 metres, until you come to the Geumosan Cable Car Building. A return ticket, both there and back, will cost you 11,000 won. If you’d rather just one way, it’ll set you back 6,000 won. Once arriving on the other side, you’ll need to walk just 50 metres southwest to get to Haeunsa Temple.

Overall Rating: 7/10

Of course it’s the views at Haeunsa Temple that are the most impressive. Mt. Geumosan is a beautiful mountain with rugged terrain. In addition to the beautiful environs that envelop Haeunsa Temple, you can also enjoy the beautiful paintings that surround the exterior of the Daeung-jeon Hall, the pair of shaman murals inside the Sanshin/Dokseong-gak Hall, as well as the nine-story pagoda to the rear of the main hall. Haeunsa Temple presents a beautiful blend of things to see both artistically and naturally.

The cable car building at Mt. Geumosan.
Heading up Mt. Geumosan on the cable car.
A look towards the Cheonwangmun Gate.
A look inside the entry gate at one of the Four Heavenly Kings.
And his decorative belt with a yellow image of a Gwimyeon (Monster Mask) on it.
Just beyond the Cheonwangmun Gate.
A look inside the Jijang-jeon Hall.
The statue of Podae-hwasang (The Hempen Bag) inside the main temple courtyard at Haeunsa Temple.
The entry to the Daeung-jeon Hall.
A look inside the Daeung-jeon Hall at the main altar.
One of the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) with the three ox-herding children.
A look up at the Sanshin/Dokseong-gak Hall.
A look inside the shaman shrine hall at the main altar statue of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) with a painting of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) to the left and a painting of Sanshin to the right.
The trail leading towards the nine-story pagoda.
The view along the way of the Daeung-jeon Hall and Mt. Geumosan.
The nine-story pagoda with a stone statue of Yaksayeorae-bul (The Medicine Buddha) to the left.
A look at the solitary Yaksayeorae-bul with the surrounding forest of Mt. Geumosan.

Billy Go’s Korean Conversation Course | #8: Cafe – 카페

We're up to lesson 8 out of 20 in this course! This is a 100% FREE video course for practicing natural Korean conversations, together with full explanations of every new vocabulary word and grammar form. Note that this course also goes in order, so start from the first lesson if you're seeing this for the first time.

This lesson (#8) is about two friends deciding what to order at a cafe.

The post Billy Go’s Korean Conversation Course | #8: Cafe – 카페 appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

Bongamsa Temple – 봉암사 (Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do)

Bongamsa Temple in Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do.

Temple History

Bongamsa Temple is located to the south of Mt. Huiyangsan (996.4 m) in northwestern Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do. Bongamsa Temple was first founded in 879 A.D. by the monk Jijeung (824-882 A.D.), who was also known as Doheon-guksa. Bongamsa Temple was the main temple of the Huiyangsan School, which was one of the nine branches of Korean Seon Buddhism known as the “Seonjong Gusan – Nine Mountain Seon Sects.” These Seon sects were established at the end of the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.) and the start of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392).

It’s believed that the temple was named Bongamsa Temple in 881 A.D. by King Heongang of Silla (875-886 A.D.). This name originally came from a story about how at the time of the temple’s construction, there was a cliff named Gyeam, which means “Rooster’s Cliff” in English. This cliff is located in the Baekundae Valley, which is part of Mt. Huiyangsan. According to this story, a rooster crowed every dawn helping to inform people of the time of day. This rooster was considered to be a phoenix, so the temple was named Bongamsa Temple, which means “Phoenix Cliff/Rock Temple” in English.

Bongamsa Temple in 1919. (Picture courtesy of the National Museum of Korea).
The Geukrak-jeon Hall at Bongamsa Temple in 1919. (Picture courtesy of the National Museum of Korea).

According to an 18th century survey of the names and locations of Buddhist temples in Korea, King Gyeongsun of Silla (927-935 A.D.), who was the last ruler of the Silla Kingdom, took refuge at the temple inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall, while escaping the enemy’s advancing army. Shortly thereafter, all of the buildings at Bongamsa Temple were destroyed by fire except for the Geukrak-jeon Hall.

The temple was later rebuilt in 935 A.D. by the monk Jeongjin-guksa. In 1431, the temple underwent a renovation overseen by the monk Gihwa. The temple was partially destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98) and rebuilt, once more, in 1674 by the monk Sinhwa. The current shrine halls at Bongamsa Temple were rebuilt in 1915 after a 1907 fire. In 1955, the temple was restored to its present condition.

In addition to all of this history, Bongamsa Temple also played an important role in the contemporary history of Korean Buddhism, as well. In October, 1947, the monks of this temple formed the Bongamsa Gyeolsa, which means “Phoenix Rock/Cliff Temple Association” in English. And in the following three years, attempts were made to reform Korean Buddhism under the slogan, “Let’s live according to the Buddha’s teachings.” Beginning in the early 1970s, more monks started coming to the temple, and in June, 1982, the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism designated Bongamsa Temple as a special temple. As of 1986, worshippers and visitors can only visit Bongamsa Temple on Buddha’s Birthday.

In total, Bongamsa Temple is home to seven hermitages that include Dongam Hermitage, Hyuhyuam Hermitage, Baekundae Hermitage, Baengnyeonam Hermitage, Hwanjeokdae Hermitage, Wolbongtogul Hermitage, and Yongchuam Hermitage.

In total, Bongamsa Temple is home to one National Treasure and seven additional Korean Treasures. The National Treasure is the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple.”

The “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple” in 1919. (Picture courtesy of the National Museum of Korea).

Temple Layout

From the entry of the temple grounds, you’ll make your way up the temple road for about a kilometre next to a meandering stream and Mt. Huiyangsan off in the distance. Eventually you’ll come to a fork in the road. To the left, and on the other side of the stream, you’ll find the temple Iljumun Gate. It’s unknown when this entry gate was first built; however, it’s assumed to have been rebuilt some time in the 18th century. It’s the second oldest structure at the temple after the Geukrak-jeon Hall, which is presumed to have been built in the middle of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). At the base of the structure are wooden panels, leading up to support beams that bookend the central pillar. The exterior is adorned with dancheong colours, and the Iljumun Gate is Gyeongsangbuk-do Cultural Heritage Material # 591.

Retracing your steps, and now on the north side of the stream, you’ll find a collection of buildings that include the Wonno-seonwon, as well as a wooden pavilion that houses the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jeongjin at Bongamsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #172. This stele is dedicated to the monk Jeongjin (878-956 A.D.). It was first erected in 965 A.D. Jeongjin was an active monk at the end of Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.) and the start of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). He would study in Tang China (618–690, 705–907 A.D.) for 25 years before eventually returning to the Korean Peninsula in 924 A.D. Additionally, he was an influential figure on three early Goryeo Dynasty Kings that included King Taejo of Goryeo (r. 918-943 A.D.), King Hyejong of Goryeo (r. 943-945 A.D.), and King Jeongjong of Goryeo (945-949 A.D.). The stele consists of a main body stone, a tortoise-shaped pedestal, and a capstone. Overall, the stele is simple in its overall style.

If you follow the trail to the north of the “Stele of Sanbong-daesa,” you’ll find a collection of additional stele and stupas. The most prominent of these stone artifacts is the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jeongjin at Bongamsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #171. Like the neighbouring stele, this stupa was erected in 965 A.D. to commemorate the monk Jeongjin. The stupa is octagonal in shape, and it consists of a base, a main body, and a capstone. The body of the stone structure is adorned with reliefs of flowers, clouds, dragons, and lotus flower designs. The octagonal body stone is adorned with pillar patterns, while the front face of the stone is engraved with a lock design. Only the lotus bud ornament still remains of the original finial. The stupa imitates the style of the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple” but with less finesse.

Making your way back down the hillside, and towards the large collection of buildings, you’ll first encounter the administrative office at Bongamsa Temple. It’s to the west of this structure, and between a pair of monks’ dorms, that you’ll find the historic Geukrak-jeon Hall. The Geukrak-jeon Hall resembles a pagoda with its two-story structure. However, it’s a single-story structure that’s meant to resemble a pagoda with its four square sides and veranda on all four sides. The exterior walls are adorned with beautiful dancheong colours and murals of lotus flowers and magpies. Entering the Geukrak-jeon Hall, you’ll find a solitary image of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) on the main altar. Also of interest inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall is a sign that reads “Eopil-gak,” which means that the shrine hall houses a work handwritten by the king. The Geukrak-jeon Hall is one of the oldest temple shrine halls in Korea, which retains features of early temple architecture. But based upon its location and appearance of the current Geukrak-jeon Hall, it was most likely rebuilt sometime in the mid-to-late Joseon Dynasty. But the base and foundation of the structure are much older, possibly even dating back to the Goryeo Dynasty. Additionally, a ridge-roof tile was inscribed with the lettering of “16th Year of Showa” on it, which suggests that the roof was repaired in 1941 during Japanese Colonial Rule (1910-45).

To the right of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Sanshin-gak Hall. The exterior of the shaman shrine hall is rather plainly painted in understated dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find a pair of shaman murals. The first to the right is the mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), while the painting to the left is dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Of interest is the teapot design found within the painting dedicated to Dokseong. There are the stormy waves of Samsara overseen by a full moon above the raging waters.

To the left of the Geukrak-jeon Hall, on the other hand, is the massive Daeungbo-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are painted in unique murals. It appears as though they are describing a sutra, perhaps even the Lotus Sutra as a friend suggested. There are also four red paintings of the Four Heavenly Kings on the backside of the main hall, as well. Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a large, well-populated main altar. In the centre rests an image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is joined on either side by Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power) and Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom). This triad is backed by a wonderfully, long wooden relief that’s populated by various Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, and Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). To the left of the main altar is a relief of a Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). The interior, just like the exterior, is filled with various murals from what appears to be a sutra. And if you look up at the beams of the structure, you’ll find dragons and Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities).

To the left of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a wooden pavilion that shelters the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple” and the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple.” Of the two, the stele is the National Treasure. The stele was first erected in 924 A.D. to commemorate the founder of Bongamsa Temple, the monk Jijeung (who was also known as Doheon-guksa). The size and style of the stele are indicative of late Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.). The stele is divided into three parts: the tortoise-style base, the body stone, and the cloud-designed capstone. The body stone summarizes the history of Buddhism during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). The writing on the stele was composed by Choe Chiwon (857–10th century), who was one of the greatest scholars of that time.

To the right of the stele is the historic “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple.” While not a National Treasure, the stupa is a Korean Treasure. The stupa is divided into three parts: the stylobate, the main body, and a finial. Housed inside the main body stone are the sari (crystalized remains) of the founding monk of Bongamsa Temple, the monk Jijeung. The stupa was first erected in 883 A.D. There are images of clouds, Gareungbinga (Kalavinka), the Four Heavenly Kings, Bicheon (Flying Heavenly Deities), Bodhisattvas, and a locked door. The roof stone of the structure is octagonal in shape, and it has a two-tiers of rafters. The finial is partly broken, but it retains its overall eloquent design despite the damage. Overall, the stupa is well-balanced and stunning with its reliefs.

To the left of the wooden pavilion that holds this National Treasure and Korean Treasure, you’ll find the Josa-jeon Hall. The Josa-jeon Hall’s exterior walls are adorned with beautiful Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals). Stepping inside this hall, you’ll find a large collection of paintings and pictures dedicated to prominent monks that once called Bongamsa Temple home.

In front of the Josa-jeon Hall is the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with murals dedicated to the Nahan, as well as a wintry scene of the temple grounds. Also on either side of the shrine hall’s signboard are two folkish-looking dragons. Stepping inside the shrine hall, you’ll find a large solitary statue of Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy) on the main altar. On the far left wall is an older Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). And to the rear of this painting, and between the main altar and the mural, you’ll find a class enclosure with a finial. The backside of the main altar contains glass-like miniature statues of the Buddha. And in the back right corner is a shaman mural that contains the most prominent Korean shaman deities like Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit), Chilseong (The Seven Stars), and Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). The interior is filled with what looks to be the Sinseon (Taoist Immortals).

In front of the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall, and in the western temple courtyard, you’ll find the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda of Bongamsa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #169. This three-story stone pagoda, which is typical of Silla design, is believed to have been first erected during the 9th century. What’s most remarkable about this rather traditionally design pagoda is that its finial is fully intact. This is exceedingly rare in a pagoda of this age.

About two to three hundred metres up a wooded trail to the west, you’ll find Baekundae Valley, which is where the “Rock-carved Seated Maitreya Bodhisattva of Bongamsa Temple” is located. The large relief is some nearly 5.4 metres in height and 5.02 metres wide. It was first created by the monk Uicheon in 1663. The image of Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) has a round, slender face with a sharp nose, meditative eyes, and a gentle closed mouth. Together, the image emits an overall sense of tranquility. Atop the image’s head, he wears a crown with floral designs in the centre. The body of Mireuk-bul is clothed in a robe that’s draped over both of its shoulders. Mireuk-bul sits with his legs crossed. In his right hand, he holds a lotus stem, which he supports with his left hand. And between Mireuk-bul’s eyes, you’ll find a jewel that’s meant to represent his mercy shining out onto the world. It’s presumed that this jewel was added in the mid-20th century and there was just a hollow before that. As for the location of the “Rock-carved Seated Maitreya Bodhisattva of Bongamsa Temple,” it’s located in the idyllic Baekundae Valley. It’s an oasis-like location with clusters of giant boulders, cascading rapids, and pools of emerald coloured mountain water. The entire area has a tranquil feeling to it. And if you have a moment to yourself while there, you should definitely enjoy the areas serene sounds and sublime beauty.

How To Get There

By public transportation, it’ll take about an hour and thirty minutes to get to Bongamsa Temple. From the Mungyeong Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #20-1. You’ll need to take this bus for 10 stops, or 21 minutes, until you get to the “Ma-seong – 마성 하차” bus stop. From there, you’ll need to cross the street and catch Bus #32. You’ll then need to take this bus for 26 stops, or 55 minutes, and get off at the “Bongamsa Ipgu, Wonbuk 2ri – 봉암사입구, 원북2 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk north for 640 metres, or 10 minutes, until you get to the front entry gate at Bongamsa Temple.

If you don’t want to spend an hour and a half on two buses with a hike at the end, then you can simply take a taxi from the Mungyeong Intercity Bus Terminal. The taxi ride should take about 28 minutes, over 23 km, and it’ll cost you around 30,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 9/10

Because Bongamsa Temple is open just one day a year to the general public, its off-limits status helps elevate its overall rating. Additionally, the stunning National Treasure, the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple,” is one of the finest examples of a historic stele in Korea, which is joined under the same wooden pavilion by the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple.” In fact, all of the Korean Treasures are stunning as is the location of the temple under the granite peak of Mt. Huiyangsan. The location is tranquil, and highlighted by Baekundae Valley in the western outskirts of the temple grounds. This oasis-like location complemented by the “Rock-carved Seated Maitreya Bodhisattva of Bongamsa Temple,” which is yet another of the seven Korean Treasures at Bongamsa Temple. Additionally, the massive Daeungbo-jeon Hall, the historic Geukrak-jeon Hall, and the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall all deserve your attention, as well. Bongamsa Temple is a wonderful example of how Korean Buddhism blends seamlessly the architecture and artistry with its beautiful surroundings. While busy on Buddha’s Birthday, which is the only day the temple is open to the general public, it’s well-worth the time and effort to see the temple on its annual opening.

The trail leading up to Bongamsa Temple with Mt. Huiyangsan in the background.
The streamside Iljumun Gate.
The historic Geukrak-jeon Hall.
A look inside the Geukrak-jeon Hall at Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise).
A mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the Sanshin-gak Hall.
Joined by this image of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).
The large Daeungbo-jeon Hall at Bongamsa Temple.
One of the unique exterior wall murals that adorns the Daeungbo-jeon Hall.
A look inside the main hall.
The main altar inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall.
The wooden pavilion that houses the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple” (right) and the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple” (left).
A closer look at the National Treasure at Bongamsa Temple: the “Stele of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple.”
Joined by the “Stupa of Buddhist Monk Jijeung at Bongamsa Temple.”
A closer look at the historic stupa.
The Josa-jeon Hall with Mt. Huiyangsan framing the temple grounds.
The Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall and the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda of Bongamsa Temple.”
A look inside the Daejeokgwang-jeon Hall at the main altar image of Birojana-bul (The Buddha of Cosmic Energy).
Baekundae Valley with the image of the “Rock-carved Seated Maitreya Bodhisattva of Bongamsa Temple” in its midst.
The “Rock-carved Seated Maitreya Bodhisattva of Bongamsa Temple” from a different angle.
An up-close of the “Rock-carved Seated Maitreya Bodhisattva of Bongamsa Temple.”
Beautiful Baekundae Valley!

Beneath the Lanterns: A Photographer’s Journey Through Buddha’s Birthday at Tongdosa Temple

Stepping into the annual Buddha’s Birthday celebration at Tongdosa Temple is like slipping into a parallel world where time slows, and every moment holds a story. On May 15th, I found myself once again among the mountains of Yangsan, visiting this sacred site that has been my haven for over two decades. There’s a timeless magic to Tongdosa, a place that continuously captivates me with its serene ambiance and historical depth, especially during this vibrant festival.

A Contrast in Celebrations

In contrast to the bustling spectacle at Busan’s Samgwangsa, Tongdosa offers a quieter, more introspective celebration. The whispers of history echo through the temple’s ancient architecture, and as a photographer, the challenge isn’t finding something to shoot—it’s deciding where to begin. With so many intricate details and fleeting moments, the task can be overwhelming. My approach is methodical: I scout the grounds before the blue hour, mentally sketching my shots and preparing for the evening’s visual feast.

The Rituals of Preparation

As dusk approached, I moved with purpose from the front gate to the heart of the temple, orienting myself and soaking in the atmosphere. The rhythmic cadence of the bell ringing and the drumming ceremony set the tone, grounding me in the present and readying my senses for the night ahead.

The Dragon Lantern and the Blue Hour

The dragon lantern, majestically coiled around the pond behind the main hall, stood as this year’s centerpiece. It was a challenging shot, with the crowd pressing in and the light playing tricks, but I thrive on such challenges. Adjusting my position, I retreated to the courtyard, ensuring I had the perfect vantage point for capturing the blue hour’s ethereal glow.

An Unexpected Encounter

Amidst the flurry of activity, I encountered one of my photography students. His surprise at my swift, purposeful movements was palpable. This wasn’t a leisurely class; it was a high-stakes mission to capture the essence of the celebration. Guiding him through the chaos, I hoped to impart a glimpse of the disciplined spontaneity that defines my work.

A Parting in the Rain

As we neared the temple’s entrance, I offered him a ride home. He chose to stay, drawn by the temple’s pull, despite the encroaching rain. Parting ways, I stocked up on snacks and caffeine for the drive, my thoughts lingering on the night’s shoot and the profound connection I feel with Tongdosa.

Memories and Mentors

This temple isn’t just a location; it’s a repository of memories. I remember bringing my parents here after my wedding, sharing the serenity of Tongdosa with them. It’s a place I visited often with my late friend and mentor, Dave Harvey. His spirit feels omnipresent, a guiding force reminding me to check my composition and avoid overexposure, subtly shaping my every shot.

The annual Buddha’s Birthday celebration at Tongdosa is more than a photographic opportunity. It’s a pilgrimage of the heart, a return to a place where past and present coalesce, and every captured image tells a story of reverence, history, and personal connection.

The post Beneath the Lanterns: A Photographer’s Journey Through Buddha’s Birthday at Tongdosa Temple appeared first on The Sajin.


Jason Teale 

Photographer, educator, podcaster

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