Temple History

Ssanggyesa Temple, which shouldn’t be confused with the other more famous temple of the same name in Hadong, Gyeongsangnam-do, is located to the north of Mt. Jakbongsan (419.5 m) in southern Nonsan, Chunghcheongnam-do. The name of the temple means “Two Valleys Temple” in English. Initially, however, the temple was known as Baekamsa Temple. According to the “Junggeonbi” or “Reconstruction Monument” in English, Ssanggyesa Temple was first founded during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) through the initiative of Haengchon Yi Im; however, the exact date and founder of the temple remains unknown.

It’s also believed by some that the monk Hyemyeong-daesa built Ssanggyesa Temple during the early part of the Goryeo Dynasty. Hyemyeong-daesa is the same monk that first established neighbouring Gwanchoksa Temple and made the famed “Standing Stone Mireuk-bosal Statue of Gwanchoksa Temple.” However, according to local legends, the temple site was chosen and built by the son of the Jade Emperor who descended from heaven.

A monument at the entry of the temple indicates that Ssanggyesa Temple once housed some five hundred to six hundred buildings including a two-story Daeung-jeon Hall, a Geukrak-jeon Hall, a Gwaneum-jeon Hall, a Seonwon, and numerous other buildings. This made it one of the most important temples in Hoseo. The Daeung-jeon Hall at Ssanggyesa Temple was destroyed by fire during the Imjin War (1592-98), and it was later rebuilt in 1716. However, the Daeung-jeon Hall was completely destroyed, once more, this time in November, 1736 by fire. So the Daeung-jeon Hall we see today was built in 1739.

In total, there are two Korean Treasures at Ssanggyesa Temple in Nonsan, Chungcheongnam-do. The first is the Daeung-jeon Hall, which is Korean Treasure #408. And the other Korean Treasure is the “Clay Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Ssanggyesa Temple,” which is Korean Treasure #1851.

Temple Legend

Ssanggyesa Temple is well-known for having a few legends. One of these legends state that Ssanggyesa Temple was so prosperous that the rice water from the temple kitchen flowed all the way to a large river nearby, which was approximately ten “ri,” or four kilometres, away. Yet another legend states how during a great war, when the temple was on the verge of being completely destroyed by enemy forces, a sudden and mysterious fog enveloped the area and the temple. This hid Ssanggyesa Temple from the enemy forces, which saved the temple from destruction. It’s believed that the fog was the manifestation of divine intervention.

Other legends concern the Daeung-jeon Hall. One of these legends is about the artwork housed inside the Daeung-jeon Hall. According to this legend, the painted murals were completed by a bluebird that held a brush in its beak. Another concerns the Ggotsalmun, which are known as “Flower Latticework Doors” in English. According to this legend, it’s believed that the doors that occupy the front of the main hall have mystical powers that allow sunlight to fully penetrate into the Daeung-jeon Hall without being obstructed by the doors.

Two additional legends describe how the mountain where Ssanggyesa Temple is located is shaped like a thirsty horse drinking water. According to geomantic principles, or “pungsu-jiri” in Korean, this ensures that the temple’s water source never dries up, even during severe droughts. And another legend connected to water at Ssanggyesa Temple is the stone statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) to the left of the Daeung-jeon Hall. This statue was made in 1980, so it’s a modern legend. And according to this modern legend, purportedly the face of Gwanseeum-bosal never becomes wet even during a rainstorm.

But perhaps the most famous legend about Ssanggyesa Temple involves a pillar inside the Daeung-jeon Hall. One of the pillars inside the Daeung-jeon Hall is made from kudzu, which is also known as Japanese arrowroot and/or Chinese arrowroot. The vine had been struck by lightning and recovered. This pillar is located in the middle of the left side of the main hall. As for the legend connected to this pillar, it’s believed that if people pray to this pillar in a leap year in the leap month (February) that it will protect people from misfortune. Additionally, if a person prays at the beginning of the month, and it doesn’t come true by the second month, it will be fulfilled by the third month. By doing this, and in addition to protecting people from misfortune, it also heals people that are sick. Also, if you’re old and dying, and you hug the pillar, it will spare you of pain. Finally, when you arrive in the Buddhist Underworld after you die, and you say that you visited Ssanggyesa Temple and this pillar to one of the Siwang (Ten Kings of the Underworld), you will be saved from suffering.

Temple Layout

From the temple parking lot, you’ll first encounter the Bonghwang-ru Pavilion. This two-story structure acts as both an entry to the temple grounds through the first floor, as well as a place to relax and have dharma talks on the second story.

Having passed through the Bonghwang-ru Pavilion and entering the main temple courtyard, you’ll find the Daeung-jeon Hall straight in front of you. The Daeung-jeon Hall is Korean Treasure #408. The current Daeung-jeon Hall was rebuilt in 1739, after the previous main hall was destroyed by fire in November, 1736. The Daeung-jeon Hall would later be repaired in 1972 and repainted in 1973. The exterior walls are adorned in simple dancheong colours with murals of dragons separating the exterior walls from the ornate eaves work. The Ggotsalmun, which are known as “Flower Latticework Doors” in English, are some of the finest that you’ll find at any Korean Buddhist temple. The bracketed floral latticework consist of multi-coloured peonies and lotus flowers.

Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by the “Clay Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Ssanggyesa Temple.” This triad is Korean Treasure #1851. Initially, it was believed that these statues were made of wood. However, it was revealed that the final layer of these statues were made of clay. Originally, these statues were made by five monk-sculptors led by the monk Wono. The other four monks were Sinhyeon, Cheongheo, Sinil, and Huichun. The triad consists of a central image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha). This central image is joined on either side by statues of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) and Yaksayeorae-bul (The Buddha of Medicine, and the Buddha of the Eastern Paradise). Originally, these statues were enshrined inside a two-story Daeung-jeon Hall. However, while this two-story structure was destroyed, the “Clay Seated Sakyamuni Buddha Triad of Ssanggyesa Temple” were preserved. The triad exhibit post-Imjin War characteristics consistent with the time. They have broad shoulders, a short neck, a long waist, thick eyelids, and plump bellies. These main altar statues sit underneath large, ornate datjib (canopies) with multiple dragons protruding out from under the red canopy.

As for the rest of the interior of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a ceiling full of floral paintings that are known as Ggotbi, or “Rain of Flowers” in English. On the far right wall, you’ll find a colourful Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural). Also adorning the interior walls are murals of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha), Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power), Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom), and various Geumgang-yeoksa (Vajra Warriors). And if you look particularly closely at the left wall, and in the middle, you’ll find the pillar from the temple legend. The Daeung-jeon Hall is a top ten main hall. It’s absolutely stunning!

To the front left of the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the monks’ dorms, administrative offices, and the kitchen at Ssanggyesa Temple. To the front right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, on the other hand, is the Jong-ru Hall. This pavilion houses the four traditional Buddhist percussion instruments including a large Beomjong (Brahma Bell) and a blue Mokeo (Wooden Fish Drum).

To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall, and facing in towards the main hall from the lower courtyard, you’ll find the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. The Myeongbu-jeon Hall’s exterior walls are adorned in simple dancheong colours, while the base of its walls are made from stone. Stepping inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, you’ll find a golden image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) on the main altar. This central image is joined on either side by seated images of the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld).

To the left of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, and on the same level as the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find the Nahan-jeon Hall. Like the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, the Nahan-jeon Hall is adorned in simple dancheong colours. Stepping inside the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find a solitary image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) on the main altar and backed by an altar painting of the sixteen images of Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). And to the left and right of this main altar, you’ll find tiny statues of the Nahan resting upon red pillows.

To the left of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, and facing the north like the Daeung-jeon Hall, is the rather oddly named “Chilseong/Dokseong/Sanshin-gak Hall.” Typically, these halls are simply called Samseong-gak Halls; however, the blue signboard above the entryway to the shaman shrine hall clearly notes that the shrine hall is something more than the typical Samseong-gak Hall. The central image inside the shaman shrine hall is dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). To the right is a painting dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). Rather interestingly, there was a large radish (mu) in front of the painting when I visited. And the final painting, and to the left of the central altar image, is that of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). But rather interestingly, once more, you’ll find an image of Dokseong that looks strikingly similar to the traditional image of Sanshin. The only thing that appears to be missing from this Sanshin-like mural of Sanshin is Sanshin’s tiger.

The final thing that visitors can explore at Ssanggyesa Temple in Nonsan is to the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall. In this part of the temple grounds, you’ll find the 1980 granite statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) from the temple legend. The image is both graceful and serene.

How To Get There

From the Nonsan Bus Terminal, you’ll need to take Bus #406-1 to get to Ssanggyesa Temple. These buses don’t run all the time, so make sure you find out when they run before getting to the Nonsan Bus Terminal. The bus ride should last 29 minutes over 30 stops. You’ll need to get off at the “Ssanggyesa, Jeongmun-gol – 쌍계사, 정문골 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk five minutes south, or about 300 metres, to get to Ssanggyesa Temple.

Overall Rating: 7/10

Without a doubt, the main highlight to Ssanggyesa Temple in Nonsan, Chungcheongnam-do is the Daeung-jeon Hall. Both inside and out, and including the temple legends, the main hall is simply stunning and might even be a top five main hall in Korea. From the murals, to the legendary pillar, to the clay triad on the main altar, to the floral latticework, the Daeung-jeon Hall has it all. In addition to the Daeung-jeon Hall, the shaman shrine hall’s Dokseong (Lonely Saint) painting and the Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) painting are things to keep an eye out for. As for stonework, you can enjoy the historic budo (stupas) at the entry of the temple grounds or the legendary image of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) to the left of the main hall.