Samcheonsa Temple – 삼천사 (Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul)

The “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha at Samcheonsa Temple Site” at Samcheonsa Temple in Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul.

Temple History

Samcheonsa Temple is located in Bukhansan National Park to the north of neighbouring Jingwansa Temple in Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul. Additionally, Samcheonsa Temple is situated in the very scenic Samcheonsa-gaegok Valley. There are very few historical records about Samcheonsa Temple, so it’s difficult to pinpoint an exact date as to when the temple was first founded; however, it’s claimed that Wonhyo-daesa (617-686 A.D.) first founded the temple in 661 A.D.

Since the temple’s founding, a detailed history of the temple is unknown. In the “Goryeosa,” which was first published in 1451, it claims that the monks of Samcheonsa Temple were found to have made alcohol from rice and were punished for it during the reign of King Hyeonjong of Goryeo (r. 1009–1031). Then according to the “Dongguk Yeoji Seungram and the Bukhanji,” which was compiled in 1481, the temple flourished, once more. In fact, Samcheonsa Temple was doing so well that it was able to accommodate some three thousand monks. And it’s from this that the temple gets its name.

During the Imjin War (1592-98), the temple was used as a base for the Righteous Army. However, it was later partially destroyed by fire by the invading Japanese. The temple would eventually be closed by the 18th century having existed, in part, after the destructive Imjin War. In 1960, Samcheonsa Temple was rebuilt by the monk Seongun. It was further expanded in 1978. And in 1988, the temple obtained three sari (crystallized remains) of the Historical Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul, from Myanmar. With these sari, the temple built a nine-story pagoda that stands out in front of the temple grounds.

Samcheonsa Temple is home to one Korean Treasure, it’s the “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha at the Samcheonsa Temple Site,” which is Korean Treasure #657.

Temple Layout

From the diminutive temple parking lot, you’ll first encounter the previously mentioned nine-story stone pagoda that houses the sari of the Historical Buddha, Seokgamoni-bul. Crowning this pagoda is a replica of a golden “Lion Capital of Ashoka.” As for the pagoda itself, the base is adorned with reliefs of guardians, while each of the body stones is adorned with an assortment of various Buddhas and Bodhisattvas.

Beyond this ornate pagoda, and the statue of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) on the heights above, you’ll come to the Iljumun Gate. The doors to this entry gate are adorned with wonderful paintings of Narayeon Geumgang and Miljeok Geumgang (Heng and Ha). Mounting the stone stairs, you’ll find stone sculptures bookending the flight of stairs. At the front of these sculptures are images of fierce dragons. And to the rear of these dragons are images of the Dharmachakra (Wheel of the Dharma).

Having mounted the stairs, you’ll find a lower courtyard filled with beautiful lotus flowers and a wall filled with Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals). To the right of these paintings is the administrative office and gift shop at Samcheonsa Temple. Out in front of these structures, and underneath a red pine, is a stone statue dedicated to Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). Before you mount the next set of stairs, you’ll find a wall with all ten murals from the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) in one painting. And if you look closely, you’ll notice in the bottom right corner the “In the World (or Return to Society),” which is the tenth mural in the set. But instead of being a mural depicting an unknown past, this mural depicts a modern cityscape with Buddhist names for buildings like the “Mandala Byeongwon (hospital).”

Climbing another set of stairs, you’ll finally arrive at the Daeungbo-jeon Hall at Samcheonsa Temple. Up near the signboard for the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find two large dragons with little claws. Stepping inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall, you’ll find a golden altar. In the centre of this main altar triad is an image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who is backed by an ornate golden relief. And hanging on the far right wall is a large, modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

Up another set of stairs, you’ll enter into the upper courtyard that houses the historic “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha at Samcheonsa Temple Site,” which is the only Korean Treasure at Samcheonsa Temple. This carving to the right is carved from the face of a granite outcropping. It’s presumed to date back to the early part of the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). It’s also presumed to have been located at the entrance of the original Samcheonsa Temple. The rock image measures 3.03 metres in height. In 1979, the carving was established as a Korean Treasure.

To the right of the “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha at Samcheonsa Temple Site” are a cluster of shrine halls. Nearly perched over top of this Korean Treasure is a two-story structure. The first story of the structure is one of the nicest Nahan-jeon Halls in Korea. The five hundred statues of the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha) inside are stunning. Outside, and adorning this shrine hall, is a large single mural that depicts the traditional sixteen Nahan found in Seon Buddhism. As for the second story of this structure, you’ll find an equally impressive Sanshin-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with murals dedicated to the Sinseon (Taoist Immortals) and a “Tiger Smoking a Pipe.” Stepping inside the Sanshin-gak Hall, you’ll find a stunning, golden relief dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) in the centre of the main altar. To the right is a modern Chilseong (Seven Stars) mural. And to the left, you’ll find a large mural dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). Dokseong is joined by a wonderful twisted red pine in the painting.

Between the Nahan-jeon Hall/Sanshin-gak Hall and the next shrine hall, and occupying this particular courtyard, is a rather large “Ilwol Obong-do” painting. This is strange because this form of painting is typically associated with the presence of the king; however, at Samcheonsa Temple, it simply seems to be Taoist in orientation. The final shrine hall that visitors can explore at the temple is the Dokseong-gak Hall. Stepping inside this shaman shrine hall, you’ll find a stone image of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) on the main altar. This stone image is backed by a rather long painting dedicated to Dokseong. And overtop of these two images are a pair of dragons, one gold and one blue, that are seemingly chasing a golden wisdom pearl.

How To Get There

From the Gupabal Subway Station stop #320, which is located on line #3 of the Seoul subway system, you’ll need to go out exit #4 and take Bus #7223 to get to Samcheonsa Temple. You’ll need to take this bus for seven stops, or twelve minutes, and get off at the “Hanago, Samcheonsa, Jingwansa-ipgu – 하나고, 삼천사, 진관사입구 하차” bus stop. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to head northeast. The signs along the way should guide you. From where the bus drops you off, you’ll need to walk 1.6 km, or 35 minutes (which is uphill in parts).

And if public transportation isn’t your thing, you can simply take a taxi from the Gupabal Subway Station. The taxi ride should take about ten minutes (depending on traffic) over 3.9 km. And it should cost you around 6,000 won (one way).

Overall Rating: 8/10

In a capital filled with hundreds of temples, Samcheonsa Temple can easily be forgotten in the mix. However, it shouldn’t be! It’s filled with beautiful artwork starting with the “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha at Samcheonsa Temple Site.” In addition to this Korean Treasure, you can also enjoy the nine-story pagoda at the entry of the temple grounds that house three sari of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), as well as all of the paintings that seemingly occupy all of the walls at the temple like the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals), the Palsang-do (The Eight Scenes from the Buddha’s Life Murals), the “Tiger Smoking a Pipe” mural, and the “Ilwol Obong-do” painting. In addition to all of these paintings, you can also enjoy the golden altarpieces inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall and the Sanshin-gak Hall, as well. There’s a lot to enjoy and appreciate at Samcheonsa Temple; and if you’re visiting Samcheonsa Temple, you might as well make the journey to neighbouring Jingwansa Temple, too.

The view as you first approach Samcheonsa Temple.
The nine-story pagoda that houses three sari (crystallized remains) of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) at Samcheonsa Temple.
The decorative finial to the nine-story pagoda reminiscent of the “Lion Capital of Ashoka.”
A look through the Iljumun Gate.
A statue of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion) in the lower courtyard.
The all-in-one Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals) in the lower courtyard with the modern cityscape buildings that have Buddhist names.
A stunning pink lotus flower in the lower temple courtyard.
The Daeungbo-jeon Hall at Samcheonsa Temple.
The golden main altar inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall.
The “Rock-Carved Standing Buddha at Samcheonsa Temple Site.”
A fuller look at the Korean Treasure.
A look inside the Nahan-jeon Hall.
The “Tiger Smoking a Pipe” painting that adorns the exterior of the Sanshin-gak Hall.
The stunning, golden Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) relief that adorns the central main altar inside the Sanshin-gak Hall.
Joined by this painting of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint).
The “Ilwol Obong-do” painting at Samcheonsa Temple.
And a look inside the Dokseong-gak Hall.