Every so often I'm asked a version of the following: "So I'm coming to Seoul but I only have a couple of days (or a few days or one day)... what should I see?" Well, I'm sorry to say you're not going to like the answer. Where some smaller towns might be seen in a day or three, Seoul is far too large to say you've seen it in such a short time. Even after living in Seoul (or the area) for over two years, I wouldn't claim to have seen it all. There's a 464 page book written about the city itself by Robert Koehler (check it out on Amazon if you're not in Korea). The bottom line is there's plenty to see - albeit too much so if you're only in the city for a day or two. Let's narrow it down based on your interests or goals.

If you want to learn about history:

Most places recommend a tour of Gyeongbokgung - an authentic recreation of the Joseon Dynasty's main palace for much of the 14th-19th century. It's nice, but limited to how royalty lived. For a better spread of history, check out the National Museum of Korea - easily the most comprehensive accounting of Korea's history. The most genuine artifacts in one place are spread out over three floors, and a tour guide can explain the significance behind various items. For learning about Korea's more recent history, check out the Korean Film Archive, which offers clips of Korean movies while explaining the times in which they were made.

If you want to party like a rock star:

The Hongik University (line 2, exit 5) area is the first and most obvious choice - more university students and twentysomethings survey this area than anywhere else. Dozens of clubs and bars thrive across the street from one of Korea's most famous art universities. Several clubs never charge a cover, while some only charge a cover if there's a special event happening. If you're not interested in staying out all night, try the Konkuk University (line 2 or 7, exit 2) area - the dozens of restaurants and bars pick up earlier in the evening. The area doesn't have the same 'stay-out-all-night' feel, but if you do, getting taxis are a lot easier.

If you want to lay on the beach:

Haeundae Beach in Busan may be the most famous, but it's about as far away from Seoul as you can get. If you only have a short time in Seoul, head west to Incheon's Eulwangni Beach. It's a bit off the usual tourist trail, but worth the trip. If you can't get too far from Seoul proper, head to one of the Han River parks (say, Ttukseom Resort station on line 7). It isn't sand, but there's water and plenty of relaxing to be had.

If you need to entertain kids without going insane:

Lotte World is great if the weather's acting up, or Seoul Land if the weather's nice. Both offer more than enough rides and corporate entertainment. For something a bit different, try a baseball game at the sports complex close to Jamsil station (line 2). Not every night features a game, but most spring and summer nights do.

If you want souvenirs or proof you came to Korea:

Insa-dong is the typical suggestion made by many tourism organizations. As I'm not beholden to or employed by them, I'm sorry to say that the hand-made souvenirs are losing a lot of ground to the cheaper mass-produced stuff. Instead, head to Jogyesa - a beautiful Buddhist temple with a surprisingly large store. Even if the recipients of said souvenirs aren't religious, there's a good selection to choose from.

If you want to get your shopping on:

Seoul may be a very fashionable town, but there's a big trade-off between quality and price. Namdaemun has the cheap side of things locked up, while Gangnam and Apgujeong both offer the expensive name brands you can probably get cheaper back home. A better area to meander are the underground shopping areas - neither the cheapest nor the most expensive, and a more authentic shopping experience where haggling still works. Look around City Hall station (lines 1 & 2) and Dongdaemun station (line 1 & 4), among others.

If you want to enjoy nature:

The Dream Forest and Seoul Forest are two of the commonly recommended areas, although they're about as natural as Madonna is. By definition, nature is not usually found inside city limits - head up to Bukhansan National Park instead. Within walking distance of Dobong Station on line 1 is more nature than you can see in a week. The dozens of hiking trails start somewhat commercialized, but get much less so the further in you go. If you need to stay within the city (or a quick jaunt from the subway) try Seonyudo - a constructed garden on an island in the Han River.

If you're coming for business and have to work around that schedule:

The Seoul City Tour Bus is designed for transporting people around a small selection of the biggest tourist draws, while a nighttime offering helps you take in the nighttime scene. If you just want to get a feel for the city in limited time, this is a flexible option that enables independent traveling without worrying about how to get there. Buy one ticket, then get off and get back on as you like.

If you're interested in people-watching:

The downtown area of Jonggak (near City Hall) is one excellent place to people-watch, but it depends what sort of people you want to watch. Children's Grand Park is another place worth meandering and people-watching, if you don't mind the kids that will be out in force. Hongik University is great for people-watching as well as watching performances of all sorts.

If you just want to relax or be pampered:

The locals take their relaxing seriously - especially at a jimjilbang (찜질방). Both of the following are excellent jimjilbang - or what might be called a day spa or public bath elsewhere. Head to the centrally located Dragon Hill Spa near Yongsan station (line 1) or to The Spa in Garden Five if you're in southern Seoul or Bundang.

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© Chris Backe - 2010

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