Temple History

Jingwansa Temple is located in the southwestern part of Bukhansan National Park in Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul. It’s claimed that Jingwansa Temple was first built during the reign of Queen Jindeok of Silla (r. 647–654 A.D.) as a small temple known as Sinhyeolsa Temple. It would be rebuilt much larger in 1010 and renamed Jingwansa Temple. Jingwansa Temple was built by King Hyeonjong of Goryeo (r. 1009-1031) in appreciation of the Buddhist monk Jingwan, who had saved the life of the king during his ascension to the throne.

More specifically, King Mokjong of Goryeo (r. 997-1009) didn’t have a son, so Wang Sun (future King Hyeongjong of Goryeo) was named as his heir. Wang Sun was born as a result of an affair between Wang Uk (posthumously known as Anjong of Goryeo) and his widowed niece, Queen Heonjeong (c. 960/5–993 A.D.), who was the wife of King Gyeongjong of Goryeo (r. 975–981 A.D.). As a result of this affair, his father, Wang Uk, was exiled and his mother died in childbirth.

While Wang Sun was the heir of the childless King Mokjong of Goryeo, the queen dowager, Queen Dowager Cheonchu (964-1029) wanted her own child to be the next king. She had had her child with her lover Kim Chiyang (?-1009). The queen dowager forced Wang Sun to become a monk. And even then, she sent assassins to kill Wang Sun. However, the abbot of Jingwansa, Jingwan, hid the future king.

Eventually, and in 1009, the military inspector of Seobukmyeon, Kang Cho (964-1011), overthrew King Mokjong of Goryeo and had Wang Sun installed as the next king of Goryeo, King Hyeonjong of Goryeo.

During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), Jingwansa Temple served as a site for the state-sponsored Land and Water Ceremony, which is known as “Suryukjae” in Korean. Then during the reign of King Sejong the Great (r. 1418-1450), a government-run library, known as a “Sagadokseodang” in Korean, was established on the temple grounds. The library served as a place for scholars and intellectuals to engage each other and read. They also studied the Korean writing system, which we now know as Hangeul.

Later, and during the Korean War (1950-53), the temple suffered extensive damage with only a a handful of shrine halls remaining undamaged. These were the Dokseong-gak Hall, the Nahan-jeon Hall, and the Chilseong-gak Hall. Starting in 1963, and taking place over a thirty year period, Jingwansa Temple was rebuilt. It was also at this time that Buddhist nuns, known as “bhikuni,” took charge of the temple.

Temple Layout

You first approach the temple grounds through one of the entries to Bukhansan National Park. Along the way, you’ll pass by a rather slender Iljumun Gate. This is the first of two Iljumun Gates at the temple. Because a little further up the trail, you’ll come to the second Iljumun Gate; this time, with stone pillars. Further along, and carved on a stone, is a relief of Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise). Across the stream, and as you near the main temple courtyard, you’ll see an older five-story stone pagoda.

To your left, you’ll see the two-story Boje-ru Pavilion that welcomes you to the main temple courtyard. The first story of the structure acts as an entry to the temple, while the second story acts as a hall for larger dharma talks. To the immediate left and right of the Boje-ru Pavilion is the administrative office and nuns’ dorms.

Straight ahead of you, on the other hand, is the Daeung-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with simple, yet graceful, images from the Shimu-do (Ox-Herding Murals), as well as images of Munsu-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Wisdom) and Bohyeon-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Power). And if you look up at the signboard for the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find two ornate dragons on either side of it. Stepping inside the Daeung-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar triad centred by Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha) and joined on either side by Munsu-bosal and Bohyeon-bosal. And on the far right wall, you’ll find a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

To the right of the Daeung-jeon Hall is the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. The exterior walls are adorned with various murals depicting the afterlife and the Buddhist Underworld. Stepping inside the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, you’ll find a green-haired image of Jijang-bosal (The Bodhisattva of the Afterlife) all alone on the main altar. Jijang-bosal sits beneath a rather ornate datjib (canopy) with a a golden manja symbol at its centre. To the right and left of Jijang-bosal are seated images of the Siwang (The Ten Kings of the Underworld).

To the right of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall is the compact Dokseong-gak Hall. Housed inside this shaman shrine hall is a beautiful, longer painting dedicated to Dokseong (The Lonely Saint). A beautiful twisted red pine appears alongside Dokseong in this painting. Also housed inside the Dokseong-gak Hall is a replica painting of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). The eyes of the tiger joining Sanshin in this painting are pretty intense.

Next to the Dokseong-gak Hall is the Chilseong-gak Hall. Housed inside this shaman mural is an older mural dedicated to Chilseong (The Seven Stars). Also housed inside the Chilseong-gak Hall is a replica of the “Seoul Jingwansa Taegeukgi,” which is a Korean Treasure. The original was discovered inside the Chilseong-gak Hall when the shaman shrine hall was undergoing repairs. The cloth flag was discovered wrapped around nineteen copies of a Korean Independence newspapers. Judging from the date of the newspapers, the historic Korean flag was produced around the March 1st, 1919. The historic flag measures 89 cm wide and 70 cm long. It was made by painting the taegeuk symbol and bars over a Japanese flag. This is the only known flag where the Korean flag was painted over a Japanese flag; and as such, it’s of tremendous historical importance.

And the final shrine hall that visitors can explore at Jingwansa Temple is the Nahan-jeon Hall next to the Chilseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls are adorned in fading, but fascinating, images dedicated to the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha). Stepping inside the Nahan-jeon Hall, you’ll find a main altar occupied by a triad of statues centred by Seokgamoni-bul and joined on either side by equally golden images of Mireuk-bul (The Future Buddha) and Yeondeung-bul (The Past Buddha). Also occupying the interior of the Nahan-jeon Hall are statues and paintings dedicated to the Nahan.

How To Get There

From the Gupabal Subway Station stop #320, which is located on line #3 of the Seoul subway system, you’ll need to go out exit #3 and take Bus #7211 to get to Jingwansa Temple. The bus ride should take twelve minutes over nine stops. You’ll need to get off at the “Hanago, Samcheonsa, Jingwansa-ipgu – 하나고, 삼천사, 진관사입구 하차” bus stop. From here, you’ll need to walk about 850 metres, or 15 minutes, to the east to get to Jingwansa Temple.

Overall Rating: 7.5/10

One of the main highlights to Jingwansa Temple is its location inside the southern boundaries of Bukhansan National Park. In addition to all of this natural beauty and the meandering stream that joins you as you near the temple grounds are the shaman murals inside both the Dokseong-gak Hall and the Chilseong-gak Hall. Also, the Daeung-jeon Hall is both beautiful inside and out as is the Myeongbu-jeon Hall. But if you’re going to Jingwansa Temple, you should probably visit neighbouring Samcheonsa Temple, which is connected by a hiking trail near the Iljumun Gate. The hike should take about 25 minutes over 900 metres, and it’s well-worth it, so keep Samcheonsa Temple in mind when visiting Jingwansa Temple.