May 29 - June 6, 2019

I flew from Barcelona (BCN) to Zagreb (ZAG) for $105.72 on Brussels Airlines (+ $28.97 checked bag), with a pricey layover in Brussels, Belgium. This was a trip of a lifetime led by my hosts, Marko and Kika. They made sure we only ate the best on every stop along their perfect itinerary so I barely said bok (hello), dobar dan (good afternoon), hvala (thank you), and kikiriki (peanut). 

Croatia is one of the most beautiful countries I’ve ever been to and such a welcome reprieve after the hustle of Spain. Also, the food is next level incredible! 

Zagreb

Zagreb’s upper town and downtown never feel overcrowded is full of historical landmarks,  small museums, art galleries, and fun bars. You should check out the Croatian Parliament building, the Lotrscak tower, St. Marc Church, Museum of Broken Relationships, and Stross promenade.

As for Downtown Zagreb, check out the main square, Jelačić Square as the starting point for exploring the downtown. The square is large, with lovely buildings surrounding it on all four sides. The buildings feature various architectural styles: from post-modernism, Art Nouveau, and Biedermaier.

Nearby is Tkalčićeva Street, lined with cafes, restaurants, and small shops. Seek out Croatian food and you will eat well. Then, climb up to Dolac Market, spread on two floors (open-air and enclosed). It’s fun to check out what’s happening in Cvjetni Trg (Flower’s Square) as well.

Hard to describe why, but I recommend driving out to Mirogoj Cemetery; lots of history and a peaceful atmosphere out there. 

Samobor

A 40-minute drive west will take you to Samobor, deserving of a walk up and down the river, with the castle overlooking the town. Be sure to have some Bermet dessert wine from the area. We also saw a very impressive cave (Grgosova špilje) for 25 kuna and had one of the best meals of the trip across the street at Kod špilje grgos.

Zadar 

Three hours south is Zadar, the oldest continuously-inhabited Croatian city. It was the first time I’d seen the Adriatic Sea! It didn’t disturb much, but we went a few days after someone damaged the sea organ solar panels. The Sea Organ is a public art installation by Croatian architect, Nikola Bašić. On the face of it, it looks like a set of marble steps descending into the sea. But below the steps, are narrow channels that connect 35 organ pipes. 

This was an excellent route instead of Plitvice Lakes National Park since there was a worry of rain this day, and I’ll come back for the waterfalls another time!

Zaton

From here, drive North ten minutes to Mashtel Distillery in Zaton. High quality brandies and homemade wine along with traditional local appetizers like cheese, pancetta, and anchovies. They have an experience that is well-worth it on Airbnb!

Split

We ate good seafood. We walked around and saw all the things (e.g. Diocletian’s Palace, Pjaca square, Cathedral of Saint Domnius, Peristil Square). I was excited to see spots that Game of Thrones had shot at, but there was much more excitement ahead. The weather is just perfect here and so we enjoyed the pool at our Airbnb.

Bosnia

I was in Bosnia for twenty minutes as we drove through! Not much to report there, but sure looks pretty.

Ston

This tiny city of 2,332 people stole my heart and I truly hope I return to scale the walls and eat all the shellfish. Honestly, had the best seafood of my life (e.g. oysters, mussels, clams [kunjka]). I don’t want to tell you how much I love it because I love it so much.

Dubrovnik

Of course I hummed the theme to Game of Thrones, out loud and in my head, the entire day. Push past the crowds and explore within the city walls. Have a coffee, beer, and ice cream - but not all at once. And, of course, don’t forget the small island, Lokrum. It’s a protected natural reserve and also the largest park of Dubrovnik.