Art of Kimchi Making

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Art of Kimchi Making

by Debbie Wolfe, CKC Writer

There are particular foods in the US closely associated with fall: fresh apples, pumpkin spice lattes and Thanksgiving turkeys. In Korea, the arrival of fall means the coming of one major culinary extravaganza: Gimjang 김장. Don’t worry, you won’t have to get a new dress or get your hair done for this party. I would, however, suggest you invest in a good pair of rubber gloves.

Gimjang 김장, Applying seasonings.

Once a year, typically in late November and early December, entire communities gather for Gimjang. Depending on the size of the family, anywhere from 20 to 100-plus heads of cabbage will be processed into kimchi in preparation for the coldest months of winter. Considering that the average Korean consumes a quarter pound of kimchi per day, this is a serious endeavor. No wonder it takes the entire community!

Cabbage being prepped for kimchi.

Gimjang is not as common today since many Koreans buy pre-made kimchi from grocery stores; but traditionally, a group of families in a village would take turns going over to each other’s houses and help each family make their kimchi for the winter. This communal event would allow women to catch up on gossip, contribute to the labor of making kimchi and share in the fruits of that labor. Although technology has made it unnecessary to prepare vast amounts of kimchi in order to preserve the harvest, Gimjang is still an excellent example of the Korean people’s connection to the seasons and their communal way of life.

Watch Crazy Korean Cooking’s Gimjang PARODY video.

Seasonal Kimchi

There are hundreds of variations of kimchi enjoyed throughout the year. With advancements in farming technology, cool weather plants like napa cabbage are available year round. Nonetheless, popular kimchi varieties follow what’s available seasonally throughout the year.

Spring

In the spring, Koreans often enjoy fresh, unfermented kimchi made with various spring vegetables. Some examples of spring kimchi are:

  • sigeumchi kimchi (spinach kimchi)
  • minari kimchi (water dropworts kimchi)
  • pa kimchi (green onions kimchi)
  • eolgari baechu (winter napa cabbage, grown through the winter)
  • nabak kimchi (pink water kimchi)
Nabak Kimchi

Summer

Fermented kimchi makes a return in the summer. In the summer, kimchi won’t be as heavily laden with spices and popular summer veggies like cucumbers and some radishes are used. Some examples of summer kimchi are:

  • baechu geotjeori (fresh napa cabbage kimchi) )
  • oi sobagi (cucumber kimchi)
  • yeolmu kimchi (young radish water kimchi)
  • yangbaechu kimchi (cabbage kimchi)
  • buchu kimchi (garlic chives kimchi a.k.a buchu namul)
Oi Kimchi

Fall and Winter

Cold season kimchi features heartier veggies and spices (in general). Baechu kimchi is eaten year round, but is popular for Gimjang. Some examples of fall and winter kimchi are:

Kaetnip Kimchi

Fermentation

Fermentation has played a vital role in human survival since the days before stoves and refrigerators simply because it allowed people to preserve food in a nutritious and safe way. This is how kimchi got its start. But how is fermentation different than simply salting vegetables and sticking them in a jar? Fermentation is a microbial process using beneficial bacteria which thrive in an anaerobic, fermenting environment.

Sauerkraut

During fermentation, Lactobacillus bacteria (which is naturally found on the surface of plants) converts sugars into lactic acid. The natural bacteria in the vegetables break down the components of the vegetables into forms easier to digest and often more nutritious than the raw vegetable itself. Lactic acid is a natural preservative that inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria.

Beyond its preservation advantages, lacto-fermentation also increases or preserves the vitamin and enzyme levels, as well as digestibility, and it is an excellent source of probiotics. (See more benefits of eating kimchi here.) Say what? Well, all you really need to take away from this is that fermentation is what gives kimchi that tangy-ness, and it’s a good thing.

Fermentation Vessels

Fermentation may seem intimidating at first, for those inclined to try it. However, bear in mind that this method has been around for centuries. Our ancestors did this without all the tech and with basic ingredients. The key things you need in order to ferment properly are high quality produce, salt, starch or sugar for bacteria to feed on and a proper vessel.

Onggi

Traditionally, Koreans used earthenware called Onggi for fermenting kimchi. Onggi is referred to as a “breathing pot” because if its unique ability to allow minimal air flow into the pot, thus keeping the food fresh while preventing harmful bacteria from thriving. Onggi is an excellent vessel for fermented foods like kimchi, pickles and fermented sauces (jang). However, they are difficult to use in a modern home. They are heavy, difficult to clean, and awkward to keep in a refrigerator.

Truth is, you can use any type of vessel with a lid to ferment, but a smart choice is the Crazy Korean Cooking’s E-Jen container. This container combines the onggi principle with modern, easy-to-use technology. The sandy brown E-Jen is made from highly durable polypropylene plastic, mixed with 7-10% natural clay for optimal porosity. This allows the container to “breathe” like the onggi. It’s perfect for making kimchi, sauerkraut, pickles or anything fermented. The container induces an anaerobic environment in which beneficial bacteria thrive, without sacrificing texture and color.

How to Ferment with the E-Jen

Fermenting with the E-jen is easy. Make kimchi, sauerkraut or pickles following your recipe and place it in the container. (You can find various kimchi recipes here.) Then, open the valve in the middle of inner vacuum plate by pulling the plug. Slowly push down the inner plate until it touches the surface of the food (or liquid in case of water kimchi or pickles) and close the valve. Place the outer lid on and snap shut. Let the veggies ferment for the allotted time. The container will keep the produce fresh, maintain the perfect fermentation environment and prevent the release of odors.

Baechu kimchi in E-jen fermentation container.

When using the E-Jen for fermentation, it’s important to give the kimchi a bit of headspace (fill the container up to 80%). Most times the inner lid and the closed valve can be left as they are during fermentation. However, rapid fermentation may produce excessive gas and push the inner vacuum lid up. In this case, open the valve and push the inner vacuum lid down and close the valve again. If fermentation is excessive, leave the valve open until fermentation slows down.

Inner vacuum plate of the E-jen fermentation container

Once the vegetables have been fermented to your preferred sourness, you can store the container in the refrigerator. The double lid will limit any odor from the fermented vegetables that might seep into your fridge, while also helping to keep the beneficial bacteria alive. You can also use the E-jen container as airtight storage for keeping vegetables, coffee, bread. cookies, etc, fresh. You can get more information on the E-Jen or purchase one for yourself here.

Now that you know the ins and outs of fermenting, with a little practice you’ll be hosting a Gimjang party at your place soon. The Crazy Koreans will be launching awesome kimchi-making kits in the late fall, don’t forget to sign up for their beta testing at Crazy Korean Shopping.

Crazy Koreans making kimchi

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