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Hoosiers

I've never been to see a basketball game before; it's not very popular in England. So I jumped at the chance to see a game in Busan last Saturday afternoon, where judging on the crowd turnout, it isn't very popular either. Which is a shame, because while it doesn't have the epic feel of 30,000 people crammed into Sajik Stadium for a baseball game, being seated closer to the action allows for a much more personal experience.

The game we'd decided upon was local team from the Korean Basketball League (KBL), Busan KT Sonicboom (formerly Busan KTF Magic Wings, formerly Busan Korea Tender Maxim, etc.) versus Seoul SK Knights at the Sajik indoor stadium ('사직체육관'). In addition to this representing Korea's two biggest cities, as the names and ownership suggest, it also represented Korea's two biggest telecoms companies - KT and SK. Quite what the significance is of associating a mobile phone company with the name 'Sonicboom' is anyone's guess, but I feel it's telling me to hold their handsets further away from my ears in future.

On arriving and passing the Swine Flu body heat detection units at the entrance, we were handed uninflated clapper tubes which we proceeded to try and blow up with decreasing levels of success while we waited for the rest of our friends to arrive. A Sonicboom employee eventually took pity on me and gave us a hand pump. There were mumblings of positive discrimination within our party in the belief that had it not been for their embedded foreigner, no help would have been forthcoming. We were soon providing a service to others while the somewhat disturbing looking Sonicboom mascot hovered around nearby.



Our friends were barely in time, meaning as we hurriedly entered the indoor stadium the national anthem was already playing. There was much covering of breasts with hands. Around fifty police stood proudly to attention in the corner of the stadium. Later I began to wonder if there was around one officer for every five people, because most of the seats were empty. Despite this, as we reached our seats there appeared to be a couple of people in them, and as ticket seating numbers were compared and our squatters evicted, a Korean fan in the row behind us implored us to sit down, although unfortunately for him my companions were occupied and I tend to filter out Korean unless I'm concentrating. He finally broke into an English "Please sit down! Please sit down!", proving that despite the hagwon educations, most Koreans actually can speak some English in an emergency.

While the attendance was uninspiring, we were sat in the most populated area of the stadium - and apparently what we lacked in numbers, we more than made up for in volume. In fact, during the game, the 'Please sit down!' guy behind us yelled his lungs out in a way I haven't heard since I last watched a samurai epic. Just to make sure though, we had our very own crowd motivator who would dance around in front of us holding various signs imploring us to chant players names and words at appropriate moments - 디펜쓰! Defence! (Or Dee-pen-sue rather, which is shorted simply to a repeating chant of 'Dee-pen!'). Unfortunately, inspiring and entertaining as this was in its own right, these antics did obscure some of the early action.







Busan began to trail Seoul by several points, and the lead showed every sign of widening, but this did nothing to dent the enthusiasm inside the stadium. Our motivator bravely worked his way out into the venue's hinterlands, and even danced with the worryingly young-looking cheerleaders in santa uniforms at half-time. Sponsor Outback Steakhouse threw vouchers into the crowd and Papa John's went one better by handing out pizzas. I didn't know they had Papa John's in Korea - now I know there's one in Seomyeon I feel a pilgrimage coming on. Contest winners were invited to shoot hoops for prizes, but nobody won the motorbike. Inevitably, there was 'kissing time' - where - hopefully - a couple in the audience would be singled out to kiss for the benefit of the stadium screen. Given the lack of people, there seemed quite a high chance of being picked - the foreigner's curse in Korea - so my wife put her Swine Flu mask on in the hope that it would be too cruel of them to choose us in those circumstances.







As the time ticked away and Seoul's victory seemed more certain, our motivator returned with a cheerleader who'd had a change of outfit, although I was even less sure about this than the previous one. With 22 seconds left on the clock, a rapidly improving Busan unexpectedly took the lead by a point and held it. The crowd noise reached a crescendo as Seoul missed their last shot, and I may have contributed to it.

I ended up feeling a little sorry for all concerned. The game was exciting and the atmosphere good, leading to an experience I'd certainly like to repeat. But if this turnout was the best a city of 3.6 million could muster, one must conclude that the people here don't seem terribly interested. I'm told there was a time ten years or so ago, when it enjoyed a brief heyday, but people moved on - possibly as they did with football (soccer) after the World Cup was held here. If it's still here in future, we'll be back - although given how often teams change their names here - the Busan team will probably have a new title next time we're here.

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Life in Korea: getting a taxi - and not getting ripped off

Author's note: 'Life in Korea' posts are aimed at the newer expats amongst us. If you have a more experienced perspective, comment away!

Getting a taxi around Korea sounds like a fairly simple process - stick your arm out when you see a taxi with their light on, announce your destination to the driver, and get in the car. Yeah, right. A publication released by the Tourism Promotion Division in Seoul ("Seoul's Best 100", printed 2008), showed tourists were least happy with taxis (on a 1-10 scale, taxis rated a 6.02 compared to 8.37 for the subway and 6.77 for the bus), while a recent Korea Times article claimed 69% of foreign tourists were dissatisfied with their 'taxi experiences'. Whether the driver quotes you a price instead of turning on the meter, takes the long way around, or refuses to take you somewhere, there's no guarantee things will go as planned.

Not too long ago, my girlfriend and I found ourselves in Itaewon one Friday evening / early Saturday morning. Taxis were few and far between, and there were more than a few people waiting for one. Eventually we get one and announce our destination - a trip that costs about 6,000 - 8,000 won on any other day. We're quoted a rate of 15,000 won. I ask him to turn his meter on, and he says something about how it's a Friday night. As if there's some reason to gouge people just because it's a certain night of the week. My girlfriend wrote down the taxi's number (every taxi has a card showing the driver's name and cab number facing the front passenger seat) and I dug out a 10,000 won bill to throw over the seat before getting out.

Important tip: Once out of the car, walk the opposite way of traffic if you're going to try this trick.

In another case, we needed to go a fairly short distance (a few kilometers) from the Express Bus Terminal. After announcing our destination, the driver refused without giving a reason. I asked '왜?' ('Why?'); after not getting a response I took a look at his taxi license and began to dig out a pen and paper to write it down (as if to make a complaint). At that point he motioned us in and we were on our way. Suddenly there didn't seem to be a problem with a supposedly short distance.

Important tip: If the driver refuses a fare, ask why. That it's the end of the day or out-of-their-jurisdiction are fairly legitimate, if inconvenient, reasons.

Although I've not yet taken one of the 'international' taxis (complete with a bright shade of orange and Seoul's haechi logo), the 20 percent surcharge that was criticized awhile back is only charged if you reserve the taxi ahead of time. If you hail the cab as you would any other, there shouldn't be a surcharge. That service is available at either http://www.internationaltaxi.co.kr (English, Chinese, Japanese, or Korean available) or by calling 1644-2255.

If you find yourself getting ripped off, you do have a couple of resources. The Tourist Complaint Center is affiliated with the Korea Tourism Organization, and while not most people's idea of a fun job, they can be reached by calling 02-735-0101. Without specific information on the taxi or driver (their name, taxicab number, license plate / tag number), there's only so much that can be done - take a picture with your cell phone if you can.

Another option is the taxicab company - you may need to get a Korean friend to help you out, as the person picking up the phone is likely an operator / dispatcher. That phone number should be on the card just above the glove compartment.

Whatever kind of taxi you take, remember a few practical / etiquette points:
  • If there's a line of taxis, get in the one in front - not only have they been waiting the longest for a fare, they're in a position to get going.
  • Remember that taxi meters calculate a fare by time and distance, so consider whether a taxi or subway will be faster during rush hour traffic.
  • Before hailing a taxi, try figuring out which direction you need to go and get on that side of the road. That prevents them having to drive in the wrong direction before getting a chance to turn around.
  • Take a final look in the taxi before closing the door - too many people have lost cell phones, wallets, purses, or shopping bags because they never turned around.
  • Finally, don't try to bail on the driver if he's done his job. He deserves to get paid like anyone else.
Experienced readers, any other tips / advice on taxis? Comments are open.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2009

 

Random pictures, part the 28 (Korea and Japan style)

Your roughly-somewhere-between-weekly-and-monthly-dose of random pictures coming up:



ZenKimchi, eat your heart out - or just the window. They were hanging inside a restaurant window near Gwanghwamun Plaza.



Everybody, count of three, aaaaaaawwwwww... Kids get onto the Seoul subway system free, and thankfully getting through as an adult was made difficult by the lowered height.



Mary, send me the name of your shoulder pad designer - those things make the ladies of the 80's look minuscule... Seen at the Express Bus Terminal in Seoul.



A clever way to keep your head and neck warm - but can we lose the freaky eyes?



Those aren't just manboobs - that's.... um... something else altogether.



The lights around Gwanghwamun Plaza - I really enjoyed the lights interact with the falling water from the fountains.


This Mona Lisa is made up of - are you ready? - subway tickets. Each 'pixel' is about 8mm x 8mm, and shows the white or black side of a former ticket. Incredible.


A restaurant attached to Osaka's Kansai Airport. Insert money, then press the button for the meal you want. It's only in Japanese, but thankfully there's a picture menu right next to it (not pictured).

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2009

Error Patch

20 Dec 2009, I created an error in my code and I must work alone to patch the problem. But what if I'm missing something bigger? What if more work needs to be done to properly upgrade my software to make it simpler and more efficient? But perhaps I shouldn't care too much on the Means as long as I like the Ends...

Back in Korea

Married life is pretty much the same as non-married life, except that you get to live together and your mother-in-law will start dropping subtle hints about grandchildren. Life in Seoul continues as normal in most other ways, but overall I would have to say that being married is better than not being married.

At this point it's tempting to add a sharp quip like "Thus far." But I won't, because my wife will most likely frown at me after reading it.

IMG_0963
We're pretty lucky with accommodation on campus, because we've got a larger place for a cheaper price. And there are two bars within walking distance. Next year we're applying for the Hoam Faculty housing, which is even better than what we have now. The waiting list is long, but if we get the timing right, we could stay on campus until I graduate. Most people have to leave college housing after 2 years, but if you swap buildings at the right time, you can reset your countdown.

IMG_0977
Also nearby is the Nakseongdae Park, which was recently renovated into a large community venue. The second Seoul International Jazz Festival was held here in October, so we went along to have a look. Heather and I are curious people in general, but we are more likely to investigate anything that is free and near our house.

IMG_0975
I've never been much of a music person. Not that I don't want to be, it's just that I'm often more focused on other things. I like techno mostly, but am open to anything that sounds fit for the occasion. What I didn't know about jazz is that it's mostly improvised in real time. Call me an uncultured buffoon, but no one ever explained this to me before. But anyhow, according to that definition, jazz is now the only music that I'm able to make. And the only instrument that I play is my Knees (similar to bongo drums).

IMG_0972
One thing that I still admire about Korea is that alcohol enjoys a more respectable social standing here. While the social elite back home often have to hide their alcoholic urges behind things like wine-tasting tours, Koreans openly encourage drinking questionably large amounts from time to time. At the Jazz Festival, they had a beer and a makkeoli wagon handing out free 'samples'. But the samples were a full cup, and you could go back and have as many as you want without having to change your hairstyle or otherwise pretend that you were a different person.

IMG_0969
Here's Heather after three and a half standard drinks. She seems pretty happy these days.

IMG_0965
Historically, Koreans were known for their horse-riding and archery skills. I like the idea of riding horses, but the only two times I've done it, it has been a less comfortable than expected ordeal. Scooters are faster and more easily stowable, but they don't run on straw and carrots.

IMG_0982
Often when I watch musicians performing like this, I wonder if their behaviour is part of the performance. What I mean by this is that they'll often appear to be en-tranced in some sort of deep and ethereal connection with the music, oblivious to the conspicuously large crowd that usually isn't present during rehearsals. I'm not saying that it's a bad thing, just that I wonder if they feel compelled to look like they're enjoying it more than they really are. If I were a musician at a big concert, I'd probably be fixated on all the audience members watching me.

IMG_0962
If you're an Australian marrying a Korean in Korea and you want to make it official, go to the Australian embassy in Jongno-gu. You need a document called a Certificate of No Impediment to Marriage. This certifies that you were not married in Australia and aren't a wanted criminal. Then you take this document to the nearby Jongno council building (5 minutes walk). They speak English there, but you'll have to fill out quite a few forms, with a lot of details about your spouse's family. Then you go back to the embassy again. You need to bring your passports and other identification. If you start around lunch time, about 2 - 3 hours later you'll be officially married.

IMG_0956
Recently I found out that my professor likes pottery. He has an interesting collection of various relics that he showed us at his house. The one in the photo above is a 900 year old teapot from the Goryeo Dynasty. The main thing that was running through my mind at this point was 'Do Not Break The Teapot'.

IMG_0957
I don't mind the odd piece of pottery, but like most art in general, I often don't know what I'm supposed to be looking at when I pick something like this up. But unlike the other lab members, I don't try and pretend that I do. A funny thing about Korean culture is that you're often inclined to suppress your actual thoughts and appear to be the opposite of what you're thinking.

IMG_0938
Swine flu has come and gone in Korea. The epidemiologists are saying that the worst of it is over, so like bird flu and SARS, it will go down in history as another Y2K. Which may be a problem, because the next virus might be the big one they've been predicting, and I'm starting to get a little desensitized to the fuss. In the photo above is a local ramyeon company's attempt at cashing in on the swine flu hype. If you buy one pack of noodles, you get some free hand sanitizer. Cunning marketing ploy, or genuine concern? Hmm, perhaps it's neither.

Anyway, now that I've finished the honeymoon blogging, I hope to return to shorter and more digestible posts. This blog is in chronological order most of the time, but the events posted now actually happened 2 months ago. Hopefully we'll catch up to recent history soon.

Have a good Christmas everyone!

My Kimchi Brings All the Boys to the Yard

I feel a little more Korean than I did when I woke up this morning.
Why?
Because I MADE my own kimchi.

For those of you outside of Korea kimchi is more than just spicy pickled cabbage and various other veg - it's a way of life. It cures everything and anything that ails you ... from cancer to impotence, writers block to dull hair .... kimchi does it all while being pretty damn delicious.


It's a pretty fabulous process...
Arm covers? Check.
Double layer of huge plastic gloves? Check.
Little paper apron? Check.
Bandana? Check.

Let's do this.




018






047

Elle


040


Look at those little darlings! I'm so proud of them.


Our Kimchi

Delicious = Messy


... and then I couldn't stop singing this song, which I'm fairly certain is a terrible thing considering I was at a temple.

118

115



121

Ps. This entire day was free. Thank you! Check here for more info.

Role Reversal

18 Dec 2009, One of my students is a first-grade girl. She loves to talk. Almost everyday when I come into the class she has to ask me "What's your name?" and "What's this?" as she holds or points to some random object. This week, she's been trying to get me to read her English books like she's the teacher. Oh, she's just so cute!

[Seven] 힘내세요! ^^

Hello readers,

How are you doing today? I hope you’re getting together with your families and friends and are enjoying great time together during the holidays. For those of you who are still working, I say to you hwa-ee-ting 화이팅 and him-nae-sae-yo힘내세요 (the equivalent to 加油 “add oil” in Chinese ^^ and げんきだしてください or がんばって下さい in Japanese ). If you translated 힘내세요 into English, its meaning is probably closest to “be strong”.  ^^




In the spirit of giving this season, in today’s blog entry, I would like to share with you a song that I like to listen to be encouraged these days. The music video for the song makes me want to go back to Korea this winter. Haha next year!

If you follow me on twitter (click here to follow), you may have noticed how my favourite song at the moment is “S.E.O.U.L” by 소녀시대 (Girls’ Generation, aka SNSD) & 슈퍼주니어 (Super Junior, aka Suju). For those of you who may not be familiar, 소녀시대 and 슈퍼주니어 are two of the most popular Korean pop artists. 소녀시대 is a girl group with nine girls-yes n-i-ne. That’s nothing though…슈퍼주니어 has 13 guys.

Girls' Generation



Super Junior

Anyways, I hope the song will encourage you, especially if you are working this winter and I hope you’ll be inspired to learn more about Korea and visit soon :)



Below are the lyrics with my attempted translation of the song :) (It's not a word-per-word translation. I was focusing on the meaning ^^)
Click here to watch the M/V on youtube



어느새 하루가 또 지나고 집으로 향한 나의 발걸음
A day has already passed and I am heading home
부푼 가슴에 첨 시작했던 그 맘 그대로
I am tired, but I am trying to remember why I was so excited in the beginning.

가끔은 피곤한 일상 속에 지쳐버린 내 몸을 이끌고
Even when I am tired, I can still walk

길을 따라서 숨쉬고 있는 나의 자유
and breath. I feel so free!

 

Yes 느껴봐 희망 가득한 세상
Yes-feel it, a world full of hope.

Yes 저기 높은 미랠 향해서
Yes-look to our bright future.

S.E.O.U.L함께 불러봐요 꿈이 이뤄질 아름다운 세상
S.E.O.U.L, let's sing it together for a world where dreams come true.

어디서나 즐거운 일이 넘치는 곳 사랑해
I love it here where there is always something fun happening.

S.E.O.U.L함께 외쳐봐요 어디서라도 웃을 수 있는
S.E.O.U.L, let's shout it out together-for a world where we can smile and 

행복 모두가 하나되는 세상
be full of happiness and be united.



어느새 커져버린 내 모습 후회 없이 살진 않았는지
Time goes by so quickly.I am all grown up. I wonder if I have any regrets.

부푼 희망에 첨 설레었던 그 맘 그대로
It doesn't matter. I want to go back to the time when I was excited for the future.

알 수 없는 내일이 궁금해 어렵고 험한 일이 생겨도
I don't know what's going to happen tommorow. Even if there are storms ahead,

견딜 수 있어 내게 부끄럽지 않도록
I can get through it.

Yes 느껴봐 희망 가득한 세상
Yes-feel it, a world full of hope.

Yes 저기 높은 미랠 향해서
Yes-look to our bright future.

S.E.O.U.L함께 불러봐요 꿈이 이뤄질 아름다운 세상
S.E.O.U.L, let's sing it together for a world where dreams come true.

어디서나 즐거운 일이 넘치는 곳 사랑해
I love it here where there is always something fun happening.


S.E.O.U.L함께 외쳐봐요 어디서라도 웃을 수 있는
S.E.O.U.L, let's shout it out together-for a world where we can smile and

행복 모두가 하나되는 세상 만들어요.
be full of happiness and be united.

두려운 날도 때론 힘이 들 때도 모두가 힘을 모아 꿈의 날갤 펼쳐요
In days when we are afraid or when we feel tired, we need to come together.



S.E.O.U.L 함께 불러봐요 꿈이 이뤄질 아름다운 세상
S.E.O.U.L, let's it sing together for a world where dreams come true

어디서나 즐거운 일이 넘치는 곳 사랑해
I love it here where there is always something fun happening.


S.E.O.U.L함께 외쳐봐요 어디서라도 웃을 수 있는
S.E.O.U.L, let's shout it together-for a world where we can smile

행복 모두가 하나되는 세상 만들어요.
and be full of happiness.

Bonus: pictures of Seoul, Korea ^^





힘내세요!!
-Sunflowerchocolate-




Passport - or Fortune Teller?

My passport ......



she is a small thing of intense beauty that has been lovingly toted around the world to many wonderful places in her own special red leather case. She is very special. However, she will expire in April, which for those of you not counting is 5 months from now. Many countries require that your passport be valid at least 6 months after your scheduled departure date .... Taiwan is apparently quite strict about such things as I learned when I tried to book a last minute ticket to Taipei a few days ago. However - I think my passport may have had my best interests at heart because look what happened in Taipei last night ...

Then again, nobody was seriously injured and I missed the chance to experience my first earthquake.

I still love you.








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