Recent Blog Posts



All Recent Posts

Racism is Taught

I posted a few days ago about the growing popularity of an extremist group called the 'Anti-English Spectrum' recently renamed the 'Citizens of Right English Education.' The latest controversy stemmed from an interview with the leader who publicly announced that he follows (not stalks) English teachers around to try to find evidence of criminal behavior.  Anyways, this article in the Global Post, Jiyeon Lee discusses the rise of racism and problems with the increased foreign population in South Korea. The article does manage to emphasize that the media tends to exaggerate the tendency of foreign teachers to break the law, that in fact only 0.5% of the population actually were persecuted by the law in 2008. In contrast, the article makes no mention of the percent of lawbreakers among Korean teachers. 

Here is my main issue with the presentation: Jiyeon Lee hypothesizes that the growing number of foreigners has led to a rise in racism. I disagree: I believe that the increased foreign population has simply made the racism more visible as there are more opportunities to express prejudices.  Racism is taught, it isn't something that just springs up. Last year when I taught at a hagwon (and thus had more opportunities to hold classroom discussions/debates) I was appalled by how many students hated the Chinese and Japanese. When I asked why, they didn't know. They tended to say that it was something their parents had said that they had learned to believe. These were elementary school students.  When the issue of racism comes up in the media, there are lots of different ideas presented about where the racism might stem from and who is bickering with whom but very little discussion about what can be done to curb the problem. Legislation has been drawn up (though it hasn't passed yet) but legislation against hate crimes won't help my students understand the diversity of humanity better. I would love to be able to teach a multiculturalism unit beside the traditional "Where are you from? I'm from America" unit. Their class that children are required to take on Korean culture is important but perhaps it is more important to have a class on different global cultures as Korea rises to the international stage. 

Yonggun Sa (Temple)

As I mentioned before, there is an amazing woman at the bank who speaks a fair amount of English. One of the last times I went to take care of some bills she sat down and chatted with me for a few minutes. She wanted to know if I would be interested in meeting her family and doing some cultural site seeing with them. Every weekend they make a day trip to a temple, national heritage site or something similar. My philosophy of life these days seems to be 'why not?' After all, I didn't get any bad vibes from her and in general, I've found that if a Korean reaches out to you they are surprisingly genuine. Sunday afternoon I met her husband and two absolutely adorable sons. The eldest knew some basic English and delighted in asking how to say things like 'seat belt' in English. The other boy was only 29 months and seemed to get a bit confused by the fact that we were all speaking a language he couldn't understand. He called it 'making noise.'

We drove out to Yonggun Sa (sa means temple) which is a large Buddhist temple on the edge of a cliff on the water. The informational sign had some of the worst English I'd ever seen. There weren't spelling errors...it was just awkward beyond belief.
(Click the photo to view the larger version so you can read the silliness) I will admit though, the sign charmed me. I've gotten used to strange English after living in Asia for a year. The rest of the temple was absolutely gorgeous though the giant yellow signs advertising something kind of clashed with the beauty of the landscape.These are the statues for each of the 12 zodiac animals in the Chinese calender and a random family. I forgot to ask photo permission from the family I was with so any people in the photos are just random people.You put money on things for good luck/a wish. I didn't make a wish...I'm pretty happy right now.You can't really take pictures inside since people are actually praying/worshipping/lighting incense and it is generally frowned upon. Even if it was permissible I'd feel really uncomfortable doing it.Mini Buddhas hidden on the hillside.
Who doesn't want a giant gold colored Buddha? The oldest boy's favorite color is gold; he loved this statue.
Awesome ceiling post paintings.
Notice how packed that bridge is? The place was packed with tourists...and yet it wasn't overwhelming. People were respectful of the fact that it was an active place of worship and everyone just seemed to be enjoying the gorgeous weather.

After the temple we went out to dinner and I ate until it was painful, as per usual. I was also offered soju and since I've yet to fully master how to politely decline an offer for food or drink (which is generally pretty rude in Korea) I sipped at my soju and got far tipsier than I would have liked on a Sunday afternoon. I didn't have very much it just went straight to my head. In any case, they invited me out again for next week and I think I will go. I really enjoyed getting to spend time with a Korean family and see more of Korea.

Underwater in El Nido

So, Palawan has so far lived up to its reputation as an unspoiled getaway, a tropical eden of sorts. Sure, it is the Philippines, so things are a bit scruffy, but my stay here so far has been off the charts.

Currently I'm in El Nido, which is on the northern tip of the island. El Nido is located in a cove, along side some huge limestone mountains (kharsts, for the uninitiated). Next to the little town is a massive bay, containing numerous untouched islands, where you can swim, snorkel, just relax, or dive.

I've chosen to dive.

Today was day 2 of my PADI Open Water Diver certification. They get to the business pretty quick around here (no futzing around in swimming pools), and after a night of orientation videos and tests, we woke up at dawn, boarded a speedboat, and by 9 a.m. I was breathing underwater. I did three dives today, accompanied by Sam and our instructor, a Filipino named Jeff. The scenery literally had me gasping into my regulator, with psychedelic coral and thousands of fish of so many colors and varieties that my receptors had a hard time taking it all in. I've taken to diving reasonably well. I'm very comfortable in water and have no problem equalizing my ears to the water pressure as I go down. The equiptment was awkward at first, and it took me a bit to get the hang of clearing my mask by blowing through my nose, but by the end of the day I definitely had the hang of it. The water here is generally clear as can be, though there are some orange algae blooms that cloud it up a bit in some spots. Tomorrow we go out to dive a bit deeper with the proper teacher, an English expat here. He's a good guy with a singsongy northern accent (Birmingham?), so it should be a gas.

Oh yeah - I also saw three sea turtles. Three. One on a dive and two from the boat. I've always been fascinated by turtles and have never seen a marine species in the wild. Evidently there's an island in the bay that's a turtle sanctuary, so observing them is not out of the ordinary.

Fucking. Awesome.

We're staying in a house right on the beach, which we're renting with three other guys we met down in Puerto Princesa. Get this: two of the guys - Scott and Matt - are from Olympia, my hometown. Scott is a whip-smart guy who decided to drop out of the beeline for success for a few months to get his travel on; Matt is a guitarist now living in Portland and working at a super-cool music shop there. They're a good bit younger than me (12 years so), but we still know all of the same places and a few of the same people, even. Scott also plays guitar, and I brought mine along, so we've spent the last few evenings sipping San Miguel on our spacious porch while passing it around. Our fifth companion is a guy names Esteban, from Santiago, Chile. He's an engineering student who's exploring The PI for a month on his own. He's very chilled and can generally keep up with Sam and my beer consumption, which sadly can't be said for my hometown compatriots (Scott barely even drinks at all and never smokes, in stark contrast to the rest of us scumbags visiting this country.). Whatever the case, it's a great little improvised crew, and we got lucky scoring this cheap place instead of some shitty guesthouse full of scabies-covered Aussies on their "gap year."

So... yeah. So far the Philippines has exceed my expectations. And one of the best things about this place is that, despite the fact that there are some travelers and tourists here, it's still very small, not-overrun, and still has the feeling of being undiscovered.

People flock to Thailand and Bali because they are lovely, and the Philippines often gets a miss. Let's hope it stays that way for a while longer, so please don't encourage too many people to read this post.

목포 Mokpo

13 Sep 2009, I have just a little bit of time this quiet morning in Mokpo before catching the slow train back to Masan.

Those Crazy Waegooks, Club Opening Night

Friday night the Female Kiwi, Hooligan 1 and I grabbed dinner and then 'roadies.' Basically, if it takes you an hour to get to your nightlife destination you get a drink at the corner store for the road. Since it's completely illegal to drink in public in the states (or at least, all of the states that I've visited) Americans tend to get quite a kick out of this. I will admit that the novelty has worn off some after a year of roadies but the Hooligan is still new.

After a few stops, two ajeossis (elderly Korean men) were highly entertained by the three of us chatting away and drinking. They could not get over the fact that the Hooligan was just drinking soju straight from the bottle on the subway--without anju! Hooligan 1 and I didn't know what anju meant but the Female Kiwi giggled madly at us and explained that they thought we were weird for drinking with snacks, anju. So what did the ajeossis do? They pulled out a package of amazing rice cakes filled with bean paste and pass them over to us. We chatted awkwardly in Korean with a smattering of English until they reached their stop and got off. Hooligan 1 was also complimented on his fabulous-ness for going out with not 1 but 2 pretty ladies. I'm not sure the ajeossis quite believed us either when we said that we were just friends. Oh well, scandalizing Koreans is what us waegooks do.

Shortly after the ajeossis got off, a giant group of high school girls got on, still in uniform and 2 of them were carrying TAMBOURINES. And because Hooligan 1 never misses an opportunity to be ridiculous and silly he went over, borrowed a tambourine and played/posed with it for a minute. Which was fabulous...except for the fact that my cell phone somehow DIDN'T SAVE THE PHOTOS!!!!!!! Evil, absolutely evil.

That was the amazing part...my night was filled with laughter and happiness before I ever got to the destination. The new club, Womb, was alright. Good DJ, trendy atmosphere but here was my big issue: it's a big basement club and while spacious it didn't have a good ventilation system. Imagine several hundred smokers going at it for hours without a single window open. Smokey. I came home feeling like I had smoked a pack of cigarettes. Thank god I had put my coat in a locker immediately and it didn't reek too badly the next day. Ridiculousness: the PR people doing photography for the opening went nuts over us, taking our photo. For the first hour or so we were the only foreigners there and I guess it looked good having foreigners mixing with the locals at a big club opening. Later some other people that we met at the EPIK orientation joined us and by that time there were other foreigners and I didn't feel like I was under a microscope anymore. All in all, a good night out with friends.

Coming up next time: Alex goes to a temple on a cliff over the beach...

Korean Sociological Image #31: Gender Roles & Korean Holidays

( Source: RaySoda )

With apologies to teachers of Korean children everywhere, tired of their proclivity for repeating the nonsensical foreign words found in Korean advertisements, there is actually much to be admired in KT’s recent olleh (올레) campaign. For under the rubric da guraerul dweejeebeora (다 그래를 뒤집어라), or “turn the things that bug you on their heads,” it has a definite self-depreciating streak, poking fun at various groups of Koreans and their habits in a way that feels curiously similar to British humor.

Coming from a society notorious for always presenting itself in the best possible light, this is very refreshing.

Examples on TV so far have included: elderly women being encouraged not to all have the same boring, monotonous hairstyle; men to nap on travel rugs in parks with their children playing next to them rather than always lazing around at home on weekends; Koreans not to always say the same reflexive English phrases to foreigners that they learned at school; and employees to choose their own meals rather than meekly ordering whatever the boss is having.

And there are many more like it. But all pale in comparison to the directness of the latest in the series, which targets the disproportionate burden placed women during “holidays” like Seollal (설날), coming up this weekend:

Incidentally, it shows another interesting aspect of Korean society: their lack of embarrassment (some would say alacrity) in showing bodily functions. Already having rather too much of that sort of thing at home with 2 young daughters to look after though, then I’ll wisely refrain from further commentary on that here.

Instead, I’ll look forward to possibly seeing another that covers a second reason many women hate Seollal: if they’re in their late-20s or older, being pestered by their relatives to find a partner and get married, and indeed I have a 29 year-old friend and a 32 year-old sister-in-law that will be staying well away from home because of precisely that. A phenomenon hardly confined to Korea of course, as is women doing more domestic work than men, but then I’d wager that many foreign women at similar ages reading this can attest to the sheer amazement Koreans experience when they learn that they’re not married!

On that note, apologies if all this sounds familiar to many readers. But while the Korean media will be full of similar commentary this week, this is the first time I’ve seen something like it in a Korean advertisement, and as part of a particularly popular series at that. And as they say, a picture tells a thousand words…

Or perhaps there have been earlier ones that I missed, or alternatively others by different companies playing at the moment? Please let me know!

(For all posts in the Korean Sociological Image series, see here)

Share


Filed under: Gender Roles, Gender Socialization, Korean Advertisements, Korean Feminism, Korean Sociological Images, Sexual Discrimination Tagged: Chuseok, Lunar New Year, olleh, Seollal
  

 

Children's Day

5 May 2009, It's my first holiday off work in Korea and I want to see Koreans spend time playing with their children in the park.

Vietnamese Beef Noodles (Diệu Hiền Quận)

Phở, otherwise known as Vietnamese beef noodle soup, is one of the few things I really crave for in Korea. Australia has a healthy Vietnamese community in the larger cities, facilitating convenient and tasty phở access after any long night out. The dish is also popular in Korea (called ssalguksu), available at generic chain restaurants like Phở bay, Czen Phở and Phở Hoa. But chain store phở in Korea is a rather disappointing affair of low grade noodles, overcooked beef brisket, absence of herbs and instant soup powder boiled with bones overnight. It wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't overpriced at W8,000 per bowl, because equally good W4,000 galbitang is available at any local kimbapcheonguk.

IMG_1461
A while ago, I found a review for the Quan Vietnam restaurant in Ansan on ZenKimchi Dining. Ansan is outside of Seoul and has a large multicultural community, kind of like Itaewon, but without the trendy bars. It's 45 minutes south of Sadang if you take the subway on Line 4. So that adds up to about 1 and a half hours of travelling just for a bowl of noodles.

IMG_1463
On ZenKimchi, it's listed as the Quan Vietnam restaurant, although I think the real name is Diệu Hiền Quận. Heather and I found it after a bit of searching.

To find the restaurant, take the blue subway line to Ansan station and go out exit 1. Go down the underpass to end up on the other side of the road, and slightly to your left you'll be able to walk down a street perpendicular to the main road, with lots of cell phone shops and multicultural restaurants. Around 50 metres down this street, there's the first street to the left. The restaurant is a few shops down and on the right of this street.

IMG_1464
Joe from ZenKimchi usually knows what he's talking about with food in general, so I was bristling with anticipation. Good restaurants are plentiful in Korea, but there's not a lot of authentic foreign food available at grad student prices.

IMG_1465
The place is a simple diner, with maps used as decorations and the odd photo of Vietnam. We started with some Saigon beer, after ordering from the well-worn menu. The lady who first served us didn't speak English or Korean, and even seemed a little bothered that she had to fetch another waiter who could speak a little Korean.
Phở
shops in Australia are well known for their lacklustre service, but great noodles. So I knew it was a good sign.

IMG_1468
And yes, when the noodles arrived, they looked and smelled the way they should. Note the herbs on top and the sliced beef balls, which are not available at other places. I've probably eaten phở more than 200 times, and I noticed that the shade of the soup was different from the regular stuff we get in Seoul.

IMG_1470
Suffice to say, the trip was worth it. The soup was flavoured authentically, the noodles were fresh and soft, and the beef flank was rare. It's these little things that all add up to make a real bowl of noodles that even my hardened Vietnamese phở friends, Anthony and John, would grunt approvingly at.

IMG_1472
On the side we had some fried spring rolls. These are called by different names, depending on which country you come from. Although they had some dark bits, where the filling had leaked, they were excellent. I'd come all the way down here again just for these. Heather was also impressed.

IMG_1474
On our way back to the subway station, we had a walk around the street for a while. There are a lot of things for sale down here, that can't be found in Seoul. In the photo above is frozen Durian, called sầu riêng in Vietnamese. It has a very distinctive odour and some people love it, while others hate it. I heard that it grows in trees like coconuts, and falling durians can be quite deadly.
That sounds like an idea for a new Discovery Channel series: Deadly Food.

Anyway, if you really like phở, head down to the Diệu Hiền Quận in Ansan someday.

Pages

Subscribe to Koreabridge MegaBlog Feed