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Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival

I jokingly titled a recent post “The most wonderful time of the year”.  However, that is a good description of early April in Korea.  I am not referring to the sunken naval ship, the slightly increased risk of war and the much higher risk of any such war going nuclear, mind you!  No, I am referring to the wild variety of mountain flowers, warm days and cool nights.  This is a great time to be in Korea!

On Sunday morning, I went to Jinhae to check out it’s famous cherry blossom festival.  My verdict: Jinhae is always a beautiful and quiet little town, the blossoms make it other-worldly, but wait until next weekend as they are not even close to their peak yet.

First, I went to a mountainous area that I had first visited twelve years ago with friends.  The trees were black and a little grim.  Because of the rain, I had at first thought the blossoms had been washed away.  Further exploration convinced me that they hadn’t bloomed yet.  The flowers were better in town, even though that was at only a slightly lower altitude.

After some time in town, I went to the Naval academy.  Visitors next weekend might enjoy better blossoms but will not gain entrance to the academy.

This little guy was guarding a corner of the museum, which is full of Yi soon-shin relics and information.

The azaleas are also just coming into bloom.  Geoje Island looks great – From the Chosun Ilbo:


Vacations are dangerous.

Vacations are dangerous. They mean time away from the internet. That in itself would be fine. It's just that things pile up so dangerously in just 12 hours that attempting to sift through more than 12 hours worth of email, blog updates, newspapers, and such makes me feel slightly nauseous. Apparently, the key to feeling better is sleeping 13+ hours until your body stops hating you quite so much. Which is why there were no blog updates this weekend. Sunday afternoon I managed to drag my butt out of bed and make it out to Tongdosa to visit the Cragon and see the temple ('sa' actually means temple). Tongdosa is about an hour from Yangsan on the red 12 bus. The bus also goes into Busan so I imagine you could grab it from there too.

Tongdosa is more what I imagined life in Korea to be before I got here. I knew that Korea was populous but I didn't quite grasp it. I mean New York is populous...but not with the same level of density. The architecture is more of a blend between traditional and modern because it's been added onto here and there rather than bulldozed (or bombed) and started from scratch.



The walk from the bus stop toward the temple. Just look at the battered traditional roof with the modern apartment building behind it. SO COOL. Not to mention the mini truck. I'm kind of amazed these things can get up hills with full loads.

And the wilderness, my god. The forest surrounding the temple is pristine, dotted with purple wild flowers and absolutely stunning.  It was utterly refreshing to breath sweet air, look at a temple hundreds of years older than my country and enjoy the company. Everyone seemed elated to be outside and enjoying the scenery.

I even did the unthinkable: I managed to bring my camera with me AND remember to charge the batteries beforehand. I didn't even trip over anything major for the afternoon. Until of course, I fell over laughing but that's entirely permissible. I'll save those stories for a slow news/life week.
Yay for signs! I am terrible at remembering these sorts of details about where I go.
The temple is about a kilometer away from the main gate. You can take the leisurely walk in (lots of benches to ponder the prettiness from) or drive your car up a different path and park near the actual temple.
 Even the instant coffee has to fit in! Obviously, this was one of the original temple outhouses. :-)


This is the giant (modern) Buddha outside of the museum. I actually spent an hour in there, they had a pretty great collection of art. The signage was uneven. Sometimes there were great signs in Korean, English and Chinese and other times it was just Korean. The only thing I wish is that the signs talked a little more about the artistic context for the period rather than just who is who in the paintings and so forth. I should really take a class on Korean art one of these days...

 Before entering the museum you have to put on slippers....this is a great idea in theory but it was definitely a one size fits all sort of deal. The Cragon has decidedly Western sized feet.
 Okay, I will admit that I was dying to take more pictures of the monks walking around. It just seemed so disrespectful. I finally snapped this one when, as you can see, the woman in front of me went mad for photos. The monk was super polite and even posed with the woman's friends/family. I wasn't quite so bold but I took advantage of the moment.
Easily my favorite part of any temple is when you walk through the entrance and see the protecting guys who keep away evil spirits. I mean come on, this guy is crushing a DRAGON with his bare hand. That's bad ass.



Me: I wonder who those people are supposed to be.
Cragon: my co-workers said they represented the Japanese.
Me: Are you JOKING?
Cragon: Nope!
This is...very Korean. But to be fair, the Japanese did burn down an earlier version of the temple. They have a right to be a wee bit irritated. 
I kept snapped pictures of the paving tiles all day. One without my foot and one with to get a good perspective on size. As usual, I got many stares for being slightly insane. Oh well, I think they are pretty.

I absolutely adore Korean temples...but signs advertising upcoming events or whatever in ways that don't blend in, really rub me the wrong way. That being said, I loved seeing the buildings that weren't restored completely on the outside.

No idea what this is, I've never seen anything like it at a temple. Very interesting though.

Again, what on earth is this for??? Candles? Somehow, I doubt it's an instrument of torture though it kind of looks like it....

Just so everyone knows: sometimes I hate blogger with a fiery, fiery passion. I keep thinking about changing to wordpress but Blogger DOES do things that I like and changing URLs would be a pain.  Why do I hate blogger today? Because I've spent 30 minutes uploading photos and fidgeting with formats and then it SOMEHOW ATE HALF OF THEM! This is why there are pictures without captions. Blogger broke my creative soul and by that I mean broke my will to rewrite things. ....I'm not melodramatic at all. Nope, not a bit.

There were lots more little buildings and amazing nooks to discover but picture overload for the blog! One day, you'll just have to visit on your own.
All in all: Tongdosa is fabulous and everyone should go. Well, if you live in the Busan area that is.

Viagra- a tool for conservation of species

I am not referring to our species, although I guess I could be.

No, I the species that viagra will protect are those previously used in oriental medicines.

Now, I suppose that a few oriental medicines have real and measurable benefits.  I suspect that as more medicines tested in double-blind studies become available, fewer and fewer oriental medicines will be sought.

From the Korea Times (in an ‘https:’ format as they often and inexplicably are):

The oriental medicine market has faced setbacks over the past few years and observers are pointing their fingers at the rapid spread of erectile dysfunction treatment drugs as one of the major causes.

According to the Korea Food and Drug Administration (KFDA) and related parties, Sunday, about 71,000 tons of materials used in traditional medicines were traded here last year, the smallest annual volume since 2004.

Experts pick up a couple of reasons why the fever for alternative medicines, which had been the go-to solutions for diseases for so long here before the advent of Western products, is falling.

One is demographical – accustomed to Western-style medication and surgery, young Koreans do not like the old-fashioned remedies involving herbal medicine and acupuncture.

…and they do like medicines that actually have more than a placebo effect.

…In other words, erectile dysfunction drugs are regarded as substitutes for traditional oriental medicines. Economically speaking, when inexpensive substitutes are widely available, the demand for the original products goes down and so do their prices and trade.

The solution is that the original products should cut prices to compete with the cheap substitutes or somehow differentiate themselves. The problem; neither of these are easy for the oriental medicine industries, analysts point out.

I suspect oriental medicine could easily compete with western medicine – all it needs to do is show it’s effectiveness in blind- and double-blind- tests.  Is this really so hard for the author, Kim Tae-gyu, to admit?

Anyway, I am happy with the news for two reasons.  First, as must be clear, it is good to see ‘woo’ and superstition be left behind.  Second, although I don’t know what ingredients go into oriental impotence medicines, I suspect that some  endangered animals will now be somewhat less endangered.  As oriental medicine loses it’s glamour, perhaps the harvesting of bear bile will become less common as well.


Wiki Rummage #1: Grigori Perelman

And now for something completely different...

When I was growing up, my parents had volumes of the Illustrated Everyman's Encyclopaedia. These veritable tomes of knowledge were bound in navy blue vinyl and I used to enjoy leafing through them. What I liked most about them was that the articles were short and concise, and there were plenty of pictures. It never failed to amaze me how quickly accessible knowledge could be if you knew where to find it.
Since then, knowledge and its organisation has accelerated to inspiring new dimensions. The world is literally at our fingertips. Despite criticism from purists, Wikipedia has collected over 15 million articles written in over 270 languages, all by unpaid contributors. This is under the single idea of 'creating a world in which every single person on the planet is given free access to the sum of all human knowledge'. I've always found it to be an exciting idea. What I find most curious about Wikipedia is that all of the heavily edited articles end up being written in a very similar style, even though they're the end result of hundreds of separate authors.

To celebrate such an excellent resource, this unremarkable little blog will now start featuring a new idea, in the parasitic hope of basking in its shadow. I'm on Wikipedia most days of the week, often link surfing through articles of only minor relevance to my degree. It's a part of my highly ritualised procrastination routine. Very occasionally I'm going to make a note of the more interesting ideas here, in a feature called Wiki Rummage, where I'll summarise an article that potentiates food for thought and add other information from sources online. It won't be a cut and paste job, more of a re-communication in my own explanatory way. For those readers coming here to learn more about life in Korea, I'll still be updating as normal and there will always be plenty of photos in the archives. If you find it boring, just bear with me while I indulge my shameless geekiness. And if you find it interesting, great.

So, let's Rummage...

The first Wiki Rummage article is on Grigori Perelman, a Russian mathematician who has solved the Poincare Conjecture. The Poincare Conjecture was one of the most difficult problems in mathematics, first proposed by Henri Poincaré in 1904 and remained unsolved until Perelman published the full solution in 2003. Three independent teams of mathematicians verified the solution and in 2006, Perelman was offered the Fields Medal,  a prestigious prize offered every four years and often considered the highest honour a mathematician can receive.

But in the true form of a reclusive genius, Perelman refused to accept the award and wouldn't even attend the ceremony. One of his initial statements was "If the proof is correct, then no other recognition is necessary." He rejected jobs at Princeton and Stanford, and accused some in the mathematical community of being unethical.

The controversy doesn't stop there. The Poincare Conjecture is such a big deal, that it was previously named by the Clay Mathematics Institute as one of the seven Millenium Prize Problems. If anyone solves any of them it means that the Institute will award them US$1,000,000. Perelman is now the only person to have solved one. He has not yet accepted this prize, despite living in poverty with his mother in an old apartment in St Petersburg. He has quit mathematics, avoids the media and apparently plays table tennis with himself against a wall.

All of this adds up to a very interesting biography called Perfect Rigor by Masha Gessen. I haven't read it, but the reviews of it that I've found say that it provides an interesting insight into the mind of Perelman. Perelman wouldn't grant an interview to the author, and so she gathered the information by talking to his friends and colleagues. I find all of this to be quite fascinating, but one thing the book apparently doesn't address is what the Poincare Conjecture actually is. The Wikipedia article on it is also a little too technical for my liking. I guess one of the weaknesses of Wikipedia is that for certain topics, the most concise explanation may not be understood by the majority of the population.


So I've done a bit of reading in various places and have proudly attained a rather dismal grasp of the basic concept. In terms of complexity, I think my situation is akin to a mongoose trying to understand the concept of spacetime, or an ostrich trying to understand General Relativity. But nevertheless, allow me to share the fruits of my labour with you.

The original conjecture is stated like this:

"Consider a compact 3-dimensional manifold V without boundary. Is it possible that the fundamental group of V could be trivial, even though V is not homeomorphic to the 3-dimensional sphere?"

...

It's funny that such a short burst of words can mean so much. In language digestible to the rest of us, a 3-sphere is a higher dimensional analogue of a sphere. If you imagine what you know as an ordinary sphere (technically called a 2-sphere), what you may realise is that the surface represents every single possible point that exists at an equal distance from the centre.
So an ordinary sphere drawn on paper forms the boundary of a ball in three dimensions, even though it's represented on a 2 dimensional surface. In the same way, a 3-sphere consists of an object in 3 dimensions that forms the boundary of a ball in four dimensions. There are many higher dimensions in theoretical mathematics that we ordinary folk don't pay much attention to, but apparently they exist. I'll take their word for it. Simple objects become highly complex when represented geometrically in four dimensions.

Take for instance, the Tesseract, which is the four dimensional analogue of the humble cube. I just had to post one here because they look cool.

Mmm, tesseracts...

Now according to the Clay Mathematics Institute, what the Poincare Conjecture is all about is connectivity of the surface.

If you imagine a rubber band stretching over an apple, you could imagine shrinking or expanding it without ever having to tear it or allow it to leave the surface. This property is known as being 'simply-connected'. On the other hand, if you think about a doughnut shape (a toroid), you could imagine that it's possible to interlink the rubber band in such a way that the rubber band could not shrink past a certain point without cutting the doughnut. In terms of surface properties, this is the major difference between an apple and a doughnut. The Poincare Conjecture is basically asking whether a 3-sphere is simply-connected or not.

This is not as easy to prove as it sounds. For a start, we humans are physically incapable of observing an actual 3-sphere. The diagrams above are representations of various aspects of the 3-sphere, and the actual thing itself combines properties of all of them. The red lines represent the parallels of the shape, the blue lines are the meridians and the green lines are the hypermeridians. The yellow points are where the curves intersect. All curves are circles and the point where each curve intersects has an infinite radius, represented as a straight line. A real 3-sphere would be much more elaborate, but we're incapable of comprehending the dimensions in which it exists. All we can do is acknowledge that the dimensions do exist, and try to imagine what might be going on. The crude representations above would be as inadequate as attempting to paint the Mona Lisa using a banana stuck in a donkey's ear.

So anyway, the million dollar question was whether a 3-sphere is simply connected or not. Perelman proved that the answer is 'yes'. 

Phew! Now we know.

But what is the significance of the solution? Well firstly, topologists want to know about the properties of four dimensional objects. We primates are curious things and will happily expend an enormous amount of resources just to find something out. 

Take for example the Large Hardon Collider at CERN. At US$9 billion, it's the most expensive science experiment in human history. And it's all to find out whether the Higgs Boson is real and what the universe was like during the Big Bang. The very fact that the experiment has been approved shows that there are enough people in the world who think that the answer is worth more than 3 billion Sausage-and-Egg McMuffin Meals.

Outside of topological circles though, the significance of the Poincare Conjecture is due to the techniques Perelman used to solve it. Simply put, in order to solve such a complex question, Perelman had to invent methods that no one else had thought of. These breakthroughs can now be applied to other questions in mathematics.

And what did I take away from all of this? Well it always amazes me how some professors appear to live in their minds. Geniuses often seem somewhat removed from the world and a little odd to the rest of us. I think this is because pondering such deep ideas for extended periods of time requires a complete focus of the mind. To appreciate these ideas, one needs to spend a lifetime consumed by the subject. There's no room left over to consider the equally complex world of social norms.

The idea that there exist other more complex worlds is also exciting. For me, understanding the complexity itself isn't necessary. Just the idea that in the universe, there exist fantastically absurd ideas that are mentally inaccessible to the vast majority of us, is fascinating.
I try to imagine what Perelman felt when he first realised the complete solution to the conjecture. How would it feel to be the first person in human history to ever understand something so complex? 

Lonely perhaps, but remarkable.


References besides Wikipedia:

Quote Dump #5


"A lady informed me that I was drunk, to which I replied, lady I may be drunk today but tomorrow I'll be sober and you'll still be ugly." - Winston Churchill

New blog alert! The What’s That Food? Files

Just a quick  note to announce my new blog on hiexpat.com.

The WTF? Files: Investigations into the Unexplained will take a  look at some of the quirkier aspects of Korean food. In my weekly post, I’ll be discussing important issues such as why apples are so big in Korea, or the fact that I am unable to find any decent cheese.

The first post is about processed meat. As any Korea based readers will know processed meat is ubiquitous here. I had to eat it, so the least you can do is go over and read about it!

While you’re there remember to have a look around the site. Hiexpat.com is shaping up to be a nice little resource for expats living and working here.

Happy SURPRISE!

Happy surprise birthday to you!


You're friends think you're awfully lovely too!




We love to eat delicious things,

And see you smile sweetly too!

Destination: Rhythm and Art (Bucheon)



It's not every day a bar decides to turn itself into an art gallery, but that's exactly what happened last Saturday in Bucheon. For at least one afternoon, Rhythm and Booze opened their doors to expat and Korean artists, played some lighter music and served sangria in addition to their wide selection of other beverages. Not a bad idea - unfortunately, the crowd didn't seem to be out in force during my time there.



"Whiskey" and "Wine" by David Tz. The pictures don't do the pieces justice, as the direct sunlight through the windows drove the metering system on my camera crazy.



Some self-portraits by J. Banta.



One of my favorites - 'End of the Road II' by David Tz. While I didn't get the opportunity to ask the artist about his inspiration, it strikes me as puzzling, intricate, and fun to stare at.



A Korean painter set his works up just as the Lady in Red and I were leaving - she says they were copies of other classic works of art ('Do Bong Mountain' was a copy of Cezanne's mountain paintings, according to her). Since she was an Art Education major with four years of Art History classes I tend to believe her.

While the artwork was interesting and the sangria decent, the crowd was minimal at best. Perhaps the place picked up after we left around 7pm (other plans for the evening). When Rhythm and Booze decides to hold a second event, you can count on my being there. In the meantime, I hope they don't look at the event as a disappointment.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.


 

Korean Food

I love the food here in Korea.  Gonna miss it a bunch.  Here's a sampling:


Bulgogi is one of my favorites.  It's basically Korean barbecue that's grilled right at the table on hot coals.  You can't pull this off in the US because of all the lawsuits from people getting burned in restaurants.  You take the grilled meat and wrap it up in a leaf.  You can put other things in the leaf too like veggies, garlic and sauce.  Very tasty.



Samgyupsal is similar to bulgogi.  It's pork rather than beef though.  This gets wrapped in a leaf too.  I love to grill the kim chi and put that in the leaf too.  It's like the perfect bite of food.


Not sure what you call this but they have these food stands all over the place.  You pick your food items and they deep fry the stuff for you.  They've got dumplings, veggies, squid, seafood, hard boiled eggs, etc.  If you can deep fry it, it's there.


Here's some Korean style fast food.  The sushi looking roll is called kimbap.  It's veggies and rice.  You can get it with ham, tuna and other stuff.  One of our favorites is the soup called doenjang chigae.  It's got soy bean paste, tofu, veggies and sometimes seafood in it.  Nice and spicy.  We also like the kimchi fried rice.


Spam is very popular here.  Makes a nice gift during the Korean holidays.



I ate a snail type thing not too long ago.


Squid is extremely popular here.  They even sell dried squid at the movie theater.  A lot of people eat squid and drink beer while singing karaoke at the many karaoke places.


So here are the ingredients to make kimchi.  Carol had a kimchi making lesson with a friend.


This is fried mondu.  They're basically dumplings.  There's several different types of mondu as well as different ways to prepare them.


Here's a mondu soup.  Hits the spot during a cold day.


For those that don't like to "go native," there's plenty of western style food in Busan.  On this one block in Haeundae Beach, you've got TGI Friday's, Bennigan's, Outback Steakhouse, Starbucks and an Indian restaurant.  Down the road are a couple of Italian places, some burger joints, a Turkish restaurant and even a Mexican place.  You can get practically every type of food in Busan.


Hungry yet?  One of my goals before I leave Korea is to eat a live octopus.  That one might call for video.

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