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The IMF Is Coming!

The IMF is back in town! Hide the gold and jewelry! Really, the IMF is back in the ROK to make amends. WangKon936′s original posts on the “IMF Crisis” and this old piece by Joseph Stiglitz (in lieu of a review I wrote of book-length treatment from a grad school class) are useful backgrounders on why the IMF feels so contrite. It seems the IMF learned about burnishing its image and allowing others to criticize it.

With the fund’s reputation so bad here, the Seoul government found itself during the 2008 global crisis with no choice but to reject a loan opportunity the IMF had created for countries that, like South Korea, were in a good financial position.

And now, the IMF is positioned to play a major role in solving the main problem South Korea experienced in the 2008 crisis—a rapid outflow of foreign currency.

IMF and Seoul officials are crafting a new emergency-loan program geared to Asia that would be made available during a financial crisis. “It takes time to heal, but I believe there is now a clear interest in moving forward,” said Caroline Atkinson, the IMF’s head of external relations. “Asian governments also see there’s value in making the fund their own.”

Indeed, South Korea’s work with the IMF on the loan program and on this week’s conference provides the country with a chance to show it can operate at the highest levels of international economic diplomacy.

In November, Seoul is to host a summit of leaders of the Group of 20 industrial and developing nations, where it faces skepticism that it can handle the ambitious agenda, including coming to a global deal on financial regulation and capital standards.

For the IMF, patching up its reputation in Asia is important as the region becomes an even more significant part of the world economy.

Last week, the IMF for the first time announced from Asia an update to its world-wide economic outlook. And next year, several Asian countries are likely to gain a bigger say in the IMF’s operations when its shareholding structure is rebalanced.

IMF officials are well aware that South Koreans blame the organization for the difficulties the country went through in the late 1990s. Last week, IMF officials wore South Korean soccer towels and t-shirts at a news conference to discuss the fund’s latest review of the country. “We have all learned lessons,” Ms. Atkinson said. “One of these is that to have ownership of difficult measures is a key to their success.”

South Korea repaid most of the loan it received from the IMF, along with the ones it brokered from other countries, in 1999 and was back to its pre-crisis economic output by the following year. Even despite that quick recovery, the IMF’s stigma persists here.

I’m just not sure anyone, including Seoul, has learned the real lesson. An economy needs real growth, not financial gimmicks, for people to prosper. As far as I know the ROK’s problem is that it’s addicted to currency manipulation and property bubbles.

Whenever South Korea’s currency, the won, has fluctuated against the dollar in recent months, the authorities in Seoul have had a deep sense of déjà vu. They remember the dark days of 2008 when finance officials jetted around the world trying to convince people that their export-dependent country was not the next Iceland. It was a tough sell.

Back then local and foreign banks in Seoul had amassed huge short-term dollar debts. That was partly a result of foreign-exchange hedging in South Korea’s large shipbuilding industry and partly thanks to a “carry trade” in which investors swapped cheaply borrowed dollars for won on the expectation that the local currency would rise. After the collapse of Lehman Brothers, there was rapid deleveraging. As South Korea’s capital account plunged into the red at the end of 2008, the won tumbled (see chart). In 2008 it was the second-worst-performing currency in the OECD—after the Icelandic krona.

Fast forward to 2010 and South Korea has experienced the same pattern in miniature. An economy that the OECD this week said may grow by 5.8% this year has once again attracted lots of speculative foreign capital, funded by negligible interest rates in America and elsewhere. But investors have again proved fickle. Some of the biggest foreign banks in South Korea are European ones. When Europe’s debt crisis started to unfold, they began feverishly deleveraging, pushing down the won.

The government of President Lee Myung-bak has not been idle since it stared over the abyss in 2008, however. Advised by Hyun Song Shin, an economist at Princeton, it has pondered ways to control destabilising capital flows. It hopes this will influence thinking in the G20, which it chairs this year.

On June 13th it set limits on the build-up of foreign-exchange derivatives that it believes makes the won one of the most volatile currencies in the rich world. Local banks will be allowed to have foreign-exchange derivatives no higher than half their capital base. Foreign branches, which have greater access to hard currency, have a higher ceiling of 2.5 times their capital. The limits are close to current levels; they will be introduced with a three-month grace period; and some existing positions can be held for up to two years. That helped minimise disruption in currency markets—the won actually rose against the dollar the day after the measures were unveiled.

Lots of countries are now experimenting with capital controls: on June 16th Indonesia became the latest, introducing mild curbs on flows of hot money. But Mr Shin insists the limits are a “surgical response” to unique circumstances in South Korea. These include a shipbuilding industry that is paid in dollars over three years and needs to hedge its won costs by selling forward dollar contracts to banks. The country also lacks a deep local-bond market attractive to long-term foreign investors. There is, says Mr Shin, a maturity mismatch in South Korea between long-term assets and short-term liabilities that makes it vulnerable to sudden bursts of deleveraging. “Whenever Europe trembles, we are the first place to jump from,” he says.

The carry-trade activity also hampers monetary policy. Benchmark rates remain at a meagre 2%, which raises inflation fears. With some foreign-exchange limits in place it may be easier for the Bank of Korea to raise interest rates without attracting a renewed surge of speculative capital.

A photo-op will not change the fact that financial liberalization is not a long-term solution. Just like the more substantive solution in 1998 would have dealt with banking reform, today’s solution has to take Seoul’s hunger for currency manipulation seriously.

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Filed under: Business/Economy, East Asia, Korea, Politics, Social Science, Subscriptions, USA Tagged: 1997 currency crisis, currency manipulation, financial manipulation, imf, imf crisis, joseph stiglitz, rok, South Korea, thailand

Alex goes zip-lining in Daegu...

Friday I was sitting at my desk when my friend Silent Bob messaged me asking me if I had plans for the weekend. No? Well then I should go zip-lining with a bunch of people in Daegu at Herb Hillz. It wasn't too expensive (10,000 for the train round trip, 19,000 for the adventure). His group was planning on taking a bus from Nopo-dong but since there is a train station near my house I decided to just meet them there. Upon arrival in Daegue I call Silent Bob:

Me: So where are you arriving?
Silent Bob: Errr the bus terminal?
Me: You do realize that there are 4 intercity bus terminals in Daegu right?
Silent Bob:....Really?
Me: Could you read your ticket and see where your arrival is?
Silent Bob: ~pauses~...My ticket is all in Korean, I have no idea.
Me: ~face palm~ Does anyone with you read Korean?

We finally figured it out, met up and took a local bus south for about an hour to Herb Hillz.

Here is the thing about doing adventurous things in Korea--the safety courses will be in Korean.  When I went bungee jumping in Seoul, there were enough foreigners that the staff just memorized the key phrases they needed. An hour south of main Daegu we were a little less fortunate. Luckily, between the girl who spoke semi-decent Korean and the girl who used to be a camp counselor we managed to figure out how to not kill ourselves. It was pretty visual anyways and we practiced the key safety moves on a mini ground level practice course before being sent on our merry way. I was much comforted by the fact that all of the safety gear was by Petzl, a well respected French gear company that makes fabulous stuff. I wouldn't have been so comfortable with safety gear made in say, China.
See that lovely face! You are definitely not supposed to hit the crash pad with your back but it took me a couple of times to figure out how to hit it with my feet. Mainly because I didn't realize that flailing a bit really does not help your flight path...
 The things that didn't involve tarzan like moves and flinging yourself into the air felt like a cake walk...or rather, a wire walk...

 The only thing that actually made me scream in terror is when we had to step on a snow board a glide on that through the air. Not the most secure feeling in the world.

 See this? This is me being very bored. Despite the scariness of the snowboard (and the following obstacle, riding a bike across a wee little bridge). I managed to get right on and just do it....and then waited 20 minutes for the other girls in the group to work up the nerve. To be fair, it was pretty terrifying. However, I did have fun talking with Koreans and other expats walking by on the ground. The Koreans pretty much gave everyone universal looks of 'oh my god are you crazy?!' and then asked the usual round of questions.

Voila, my weekend! Today I am going to get bibimbap with the Partial Asian and then do the dreaded x...study for the GREs.  ~shudders~


All pictures are care of Kevin Beale (or whoever he passed the camera to at that moment)--the only one of us who was brave enough to risk his camera.  Knowing my spaztastic record, I definitely decided to keep mine in my locker.


Sannakji, jusayo!

“There comes a day in the life of every creature when his time in this sea has reached its end.  Some leave their body behind and become part of the reef, and others – they vanish without a trace.  It has been said that those of the latter are drawn upward and out into the space beyond the great ripple in the sky.  Up they go, on to the next life of peace and happiness; a life where constant awareness for self protection becomes unnecessary, where energy need not be expelled in learning the meticulous art of camouflage, and where the fear of being eaten alive by your temperamental partner during ‘species conservation’ is diminished.  It’s a place you can bottom-feed all day long and graze among the reefs in peace and serenity.  A place you can be free.”

This is the unfortunate story of a day in the life (the last day, to be exact) of a small octopus off-shore one of the largest port cities on Earth.

It was an average evening for this cephalopod mollusk; anxious for return to the coral reef after a long day hunting nourishment for his little body and practicing his color changing.  Along the journey back to familiar waters he was distracted by a gathering commotion, and being an inquisitive fellow he kicked backward with the force of eight muscular legs and darted forth to investigate.  Upon prompt arrival at the scene, this little guy found himself ‘caught in a net’, if you will.  There was little time to gather any sense of the situation before his marine friends closed around him in a tight squish, and a sickening feeling of motion in an unidentifiable direction took hold.  Once the motion had subdued a quick drop onto a hard wooden surface relinquished the uncomfortable pressure.  Stillness set in like a brick, as his cognisanse was filled with nothing but the uncomfortable feeling of water being robbed of his skin and his frustrating inability to kick back and swim away.  After a numbing succession of bangs, thuds, pulls of the legs and pokes of the eyes, he was returned to a natural state of anti-gravity and refreshed skin and could finally retain a sense of bearing.  A gripping feeling of dread quickly set in as he bumped with head and limbs into a circular constraint that allowed little room for personal space between him and his desperate counterparts.  It was now completely dark, yet he did not sleep.

After what seemed like eternity the weary little octopus came into consciousness by a sudden flood of bright light, and could hear muffled sounds unrecognizable to his ears.  A large, dark figure came into view on the other side of the rippled divide, and in a sad naivety he wondered if this was the place of which he had heard stories; the place beyond the great ripple where the fortunate ones go to live in peace and serenity.  The sickening delirium radiating from his insides made this persuasion very difficult as he began a succession of countless pours, transfers, and mixes with living contents of other tiny circular habitats.  Once this irritating sequence came to a close, his was laid to rest and the true identity of this mysterious place dawned: perdition.  Clear as the sun in the near sky, death was present in a neat row of silver, scaly tails hanging overhead just beyond the rippling divide.  This is what really happens to the ones who disappear without a trace; something worse than could ever be fathomed back in the comfort of the reef.

As the sun grew higher the heat beat down into the shallow pool, and the tall, dark figures began to replicate.  They peered down at him by the hundreds as he swam in circles in panic.  In pathetic desperation, he swung his long appendages up through the rippled divide, draping them over the edge of his confinement and pulled upward, launching his body up onto the ledge with all the life left in his weakening legs.  He could feel the firm ground of freedom momentarily, until a swift plop landed him back into the water.  Repeated attempts offered him no vantage over the large dark figure keeping watch over his holding cell – it was hopeless.

As the day wore on the fellow prisoners slowly diminished one by one to the hands of the giant, dark, mumbling figures, he had completely lost faith.  He still knew not his fate that lie at the hands of the figures, but he knew there was no escape and willed for it to be over.

“Sannakji, jusayo!” The declaration pierced the humid air, as a group of salarymen stumbled into the tent off the main alley of the Jagalchi Fish Market.  In passing one of them inadvertently kicked a nearby octopus bucket, yet remained seemingly unfazed by the stale, sea creature juice that now soaked his expensive alligator skin shoes.  “Sannakji rang soju: hana, dul, set!”  Slight inebriation was merely a stepping stone to the remainder of the evening for these men in Busan, South Korea.  Soju (traditional Korean rice alcohol) was in high demand and of course, no alcohol consumption sans anju in this town!  On this warm, early summer evening, the men were out for the local delicacy – Sannakji, or raw octopus tentacles freshly chopped from the source and still wriggling on the plate after hand selection from a bucket near the table.  After all, partial animate existence is the next best thing to plucking the thing right off the fishing line and into your mouth like popcorn.  Though having been at the demands of her physically laboring job since 5AM, the waitress was swift to retrieve these hungry men their snack after a long week’s work.  Its feeble escape attempts threatened no hindrance for which she hadn’t culminated a simple remedy for through her countless years at this very market.  Securing the small frantic creature with one age withered hand and clutching basic kitchen scissors with the other, she swiftly separated the creature from its appendages and dressed them on a ceramic plate with sesame oil and seeds.  As luck had it, these particular salarymen on this particular evening were no amateurs, and despite a potentially lethal fight for revenge the tentacles were easily vanquished by their teeth, tongues, and saliva.  On this day, these men remain triumphant, and will continue to reside among the majority of those who take victory over this particular Korean delicacy… for now…


Interview: Raul Pizarro

A version of this article appeared in the July 2010 issue of Groove Magazine. All photos are of original works by Raul Pizarro.


"Crossing to" by Raul Pizarro.

There are times when Korea surprises me with its diversity. As elsewhere, you have to look to find it - but it's there, whether you realize it or not. I recently had tea during a sweltering summer day with Raul Pizarro, a Chilean painter opening his first solo exhibit this month.

Raul paints cities, cityscapes, or various elements found in cities - then distorts them in some way, as though you're looking at a reflection. "This reality is not real," Raul said, bringing back flashes of the Matrix as if we're all part of it. "Reality is not what we see, but it's pretty close," he continued; the distorted view of the world is thus not reality, but a version of it.


"Self-portrait" by Raul Pizarro.

After studying under a Spanish master, Raul found his way to the USA, then to Ireland and back to Chile before finding his way to Korea about 9 months ago. "What I've been trying to do...is connect Western and Eastern art philosophies....It was fate that brought me to Korea," along with his fiance, who studies here. Having completed 14 original works in his short time here, he's impressively ready for his first solo exhibition.

"Afternoon Landscape" by Raul Pizarro.

One of Raul's favorite pieces features a ubiquitous LED sign and a neon sign near the top, de-evolving or shifting into cars, water, and dirt. The reality of each element becomes twisted - there's no static starting or stopping point to focus on - while the person pictured fades into the shadows. There's no clear sense of where one elements begins or another ends. According to Raul, "it's a reminder we're all interconnected, in one way or another. When you paint the reality [of something], everything is separated. When you distort them, everything becomes interconnected."

Raul Pizarro's solo exhibit is open from July 14th (opening reception at 7pm) to August 10th at the Jay Gallery in Insa-dong (Anguk station, line 3, exit 5, inside the SK-HUB building between exits 5 and 6). For more information, check out jaypia.com. Free admission.

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Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.


 

the new ruby?

I think I've already been replaced.
She's already friends with all my friends.
She works at my school ...
and her blog might be better than mine already.

Destination: Taco Bell


To my wonderful American / Canadian audience: I realize it might sound a little silly to write a 'Destination' post about a fast-food restaurant, but read on all the same. I write about this new establishment for a reason.

The first Taco Bell open to the Korean public officially opened in Itaewon earlier today. Although a rumor implied a 'soft opening' a few days earlier, July 11th was the scheduled date - naturally, off I went to enjoy a taste of America.

I won't claim to know the entire history of the franchise in Korea, except to say it's available on U.S. military bases in Korea (meaning you need to be part of the military or know someone), and that it was in Korea at some point in the past. ZenKimchi makes a vague reference to "the aborted attempts of Taco Bell... about ten years ago" in a post from 2008. The story I've heard (anecdotal, and possibly apocryphal) was that a franchise was opened before the Korean population was familiar with Mexican food, and before the expat population had reached a critical mass. That it was supposedly more expensive than elsewhere in the world was the final nail in the coffin.

With the resurgence in international foods around Itaewon, the area seems the perfect place to open the new franchise - and people were ready for it:

The line streamed out the door and out to the corner of the intersection nearly 50 feet away. After waiting in line for nearly 40 minutes, I made it to the front to see the menu clearly:



More than a few things are missing that will inevitably disappoint some Taco Bell fans. No Gorditas. No hot sauce. No fire sauce. No $2 combos. By Korean standards the prices are cheap, but they're not as cheap as in the U.S.



The 1st floor area - while small, it does hold a self-serve drink counter and a few chairs for those quick eaters. The 2nd and 3rd floors (not pictured) are relatively nice and colorful - not unlike any other food franchises that come to mind.



Finally, time to sit down and eat. A Crunchwrap Supreme combo (including nachos and drink)? 4,600 won, or about $4 USD. The taste was as expected - nothing unusual, but still, a nice taste of home. A few fries made their way into the bag of nachos, but nothing overly unusual about that.

The crowd kept coming in, willing to wait in line for 30-40 minutes to eat a meal that takes a few minutes to make and perhaps 10-15 minutes to eat. Whether people will be as willing to wait the second time around will be interesting to see. A majority of the crowd was Korean, telling me the reputation (or the marketing campaign) precedes them. More than a few people were overheard talking about the taste of home (heard from both gyopo and foreigner) and 'how long it's been' since they've had it.

It's worth noting that unless you're a particularly late drunk, this can probably serve as your last round before returning home - they're open until 11pm Sunday-Thursday and 2am Friday-Saturday. It's a nice taste of the Western world, without a bite of kimchi in sight.

Directions to Taco Bell: Take line 6 of the Seoul subway system to the Itaewon station. Take exit 3 to street level, then make a u-turn and turn left at the intersection. It's just after the Cold Stone Creamery, and not difficult to miss.

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Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.


Two More Oppose Official Cheonan Line

Two American scholars have expressed skepticism about Seoul’s official line on the Cheonan sinking.

An international investigation concluded in May that North Korea torpedoed the South Korean warship Cheonan in late March, killing 46 sailors. North Korea denied it launched an attack and warned that any punishment would trigger war.

But Jae-jung Suh, a political scientist at Johns Hopkins University, and Seoung-hun Lee, a University of Virginia physicist, said the report issued after the investigation had numerous flaws and did not jibe with experiments they carried out to replicate the conditions caused by the type of blast that allegedly sank the ship.

South Korea’s military dismissed their claims as “nothing new,” saying it has presented sufficient evidence of an attack. The results of the experiments conducted by the professors were “likely to be based on incorrect experimental factors,” a Joint Chiefs of Staff spokesman said on condition of anonymity, citing official policy.

The international investigation concluded that the Cheonan sank after a torpedo exploded in waters about 10-20 feet (3-6 meters) away from its hull, causing a “bubble effect” and destroying the ship with its shockwaves. It said North Korea was implicated by the discovery of a torpedo fragment with “No. 1″ written on it in Korean.

The two researchers, however, said the report failed to sufficiently substantiate such claims.

“There is no evidence that the ship was destroyed by the bubble effect, or of shockwaves,” Suh told reporters at a news conference in Tokyo. “We’re not sure where it happened, we’re not sure when it happened. The only conclusion that can be drawn is that there was no outside explosion.”

Suh is the director of the Korean studies program at Johns Hopkins and the author of several books on security issues on the Korean peninsula. Lee is based at the University of Virginia’s neutron and X-ray scattering laboratory, and is an expert in the X-ray technologies used by the investigative team.

Lee and Suh said X-ray data submitted in the report contained inconsistencies that “cast profound doubt” on the integrity of the data, and said the “No. 1″ was written in ink that should have burned off under the intense heat of the blast, suggesting that it was fabricated.

Fifty-eight sailors were rescued from the frigid Yellow Sea waters near the Koreas’ maritime border but 46 perished in South Korea’s worst military disaster since the end of the three-year Korean War in 1953.

Though skeptics are in the minority, questions over the details of the sinking have been raised in South Korea since the report was released.

South Korea’s military has taken steps to dispel skepticism among some left-leaning civic groups and influential bloggers.

Last month the Defense Ministry began sponsoring a series of briefings to explain the results of the investigation to the public and offer tours of the ship’s wreckage.

Participants are allowed close access to the Cheonan and to blog about all matters discussed at the briefings — an unprecedented loosening of the military’s strict security protocols, according to the ministry.

Seoul says the investigation turned up firm evidence indicating North Korea sank the ship and has been lobbying international support for punishment of its communist neighbor. After more than a month of closed-door discussions, the U.N. Security Council approved a statement Friday condemning the sinking without explicitly saying that North Korea was to blame.

Lee — who said he has received no support from North Korea — declined to speculate on what might have caused the ship to sink if not a North Korean torpedo.

“We do not know. Nobody knows at the moment,” he said. “Grounding remains a possibility, and an accident remains a possibility. Since we cannot rule these things out, we must reopen the investigation.”

I’m concerned Seoul has allowed little room for itself or others for alternative views. And, that rigidity could also encourage the propagation of conspiracy theories.

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Filed under: Academia, East Asia, Korea, Maritime, Military Tagged: cheonan, dprk, north korea, rok, South Korea

Destination: Hwanghaksan Arboretum / Forest Therapy Place (Yeoju)

A version of this article appears in the July 2010 issue of Groove Magazine.



Like a combination of Seoul Forest and Oe-do Island off the southern coast, Hwanghaksan Arboretum offers easy walking, in-laid stone paths, and a large wooded area if you want to get off the stone path. Another name in the tourist map is the 'Hwanghak Mountain Forest Therapy Place'. Whether you come for 'forest therapy' or a lazy summer walk, there's plenty of room to meander with 272,922 square meters to explore and 1,100 species of plants to gaze at.



Begin by admiring the large lake complete with fountains, then follow the road left to a greenhouse dedicated to research. Pass by row after row of various species, then head left to cross a bridge and follow a dirt path. It's obvious virtually every element of this trip thus far has been constructed, built, and created - yet it doesn't faze me. The dirt path winds through the forest for a few hundred meters before lazily showing the grand landscape. Admire the stream that runs down to the lake, falling onto stone or simply following the current.




Although some areas aren't marked or delineated well, you'll be so busy enjoying the sights that you'll forget to look for English signs (they aren't any). If you packed a picnic lunch, head up to the 전망대 (observatory/pavilion) for a wonderful view of the area. If not, head over to 습지원 - an area offering a guided path through the woods. It's complete with wooden stairs to ensure nature isn't harmed by a large number of visitors. Don't forget about the 채원 (vegetable garden) near the center of the park and a sculpture park a little further in. If you can tear yourself away from the planted and planned areas, the 산림박물관 (Forest Museum) offers an excellent learning opportunity.





Quiet, relaxing, and beautiful - it's hard to ask for much more. Make this the place to bring a picnic lunch place, but be sure to pack it in - and out - as there's no food or drink for sale within the arboretum. Yeoju is an easy day-trip from Seoul, but make it a weekend to see the tomb of King Sejong, Empress Myeongseong's birthhouse, and Silleuksa.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:

Directions: Go to Yeoju in Gyeonggi-do. From Seoul's Express Bus Terminal, buses go to Yeoju's Express Bus Terminal every 30-40 minutes. Exit out the main entrance of the Yeoju bus terminal (where the taxis line up), then turn right and walk about 50 meters to the bus stop. Look for bus 51-6 (seven buses a day, 1,000 won, 20 minutes) or take a fairly cheap taxi ride. Open 9am-6pm March-October; 9am-5pm November-February. Free admission; some areas wheelchair / stroller accessible. For more information, call 031-887-2744.

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.


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