Recent Blog Posts



All Recent Posts

Destination: Ulleung-do (part 1)



One of Korea's most distant islands, Ulleungdo retains a certain mystery and exoticness held by few other destinations in Korea. Perhaps it's because of its distance from the mainland, or perhaps it's because of the unusual difficulty of actually getting there. From Seoul it's a 3 1/2 hour bus ride to Donghae, a short taxi ride to Mukho ferry terminal (묵호 여객선 터미날), then a 2 1/2 hour ferry ride - not exactly a day trip. If you do make the trip out, there's more than enough to make the trip worthwhile.

Having been Korean territory since the Silla dynasty, Ulleungdo is the above-water portion of an extinct volcano. There's plenty of volcanic rock around, although there's almost no flat land to speak of. Roads are narrow, and occasionally spiral or U-turn up the side of the island. The map of the island's roads almost look like those of a roller coaster in a few places - one reason how a one-way trip around 3/4 of a small island can take an hour and a half. The road that will completely go around the island isn't even finished yet - stay tuned for that to develop.

Ulleungdo's tourist information is quick to mention the five plentiful things - aromatic trees, wind, beautiful women, water and rocks - and three nonexistant things - thieves, pollution or snakes. With the exception of the beautiful women, I'd tend to agree (perhaps 'weather-worn' applies to both the rocks and the women). In any case, stop by the tourist information center right by the harbor to pick up an English map of the island.



After the aforementioned ferry trip, I arrived at Ulleungdo ferry terminal (울릉도 여객선 터미날), and was immediately approached by ajumma holding signs for minbak (mom-and-pop hotels or homestays). Unless you're interested in staying in a small room for an inflated price, avoid the sellers who approach you - there's plenty of lodging around the harbor.



The harbor - far from natural but it works all the same.

After finding a hotel, I walked to the bus stop (walk up the left hill from the harbor) and caught the bus going west. The island has exactly four bus 'routes', and you can catch all of them from this bus stop. I took the one going west towards my first destination.





Located on the western side of the island, Seonghasindang Shrine (성하신당 전설, 聖霞神堂) is in Daeha-dong, the first permanent settlement on the island. There's an interesting legend to the shrine, which I'll quote from KBS World:
In the 17th year (AD1417) of the reign of King Taejong during the Joseon Kingdom, Kim Inu was nominated as commander in charge of evacuating all the residents from Ulleungdo Island to the mainland in order to empty the island. He gathered all the residents on the island and prepared to evacuate the people to the mainland. On the night before the departure, Kim Inu had a dream. The God of the East Sea appeared in his dream and ordered him to leave one young couple on the island. However, he forgot the dream and tried to sail to the mainland with his people. Then suddenly, a rough storm prevented him from sailing to the mainland. The fearful storm continued the next day, too. He stayed for several days waiting for the storm to stop. Then he remembered his dream and he chose one young couple from among the island residents and ordered the young couple to return to their village. As the couple left the ship to return to their home village, the rough sea became calm immediately. Kim Inu and the island residents could now return to the mainland safely, leaving the young couple on Ulleungdo Island. Kim Inu could not forget the incident, and he was appointed commander again 8 years after he returned to the mainland. He sailed again to Ulleungdo Island and went to the village where he left the young couple. He was surprised to see the corpse of the young couple dead in an embrace. He built a shrine to console the sprits of the dead couple and repent of his sin and crime. Thereafter, whenever people construct a ship on Ulleungdo Island, they board the ship from this village and pray for safe sailing at the shrine.


While around the area, I meandered to a monorail - that wasn't on my map! - that wasn't operating because of high wind. Too bad, though, as it would have made climbing the mountain a lot easier. Instead, I continued to 황토굴 (Hwangto cave), which sounds more impressive than it actually was:



Exactly. When one thinks of a cave, one imagines being able to go underground and explore the area... The colors are nice and all, but five minutes later I found myself staring at my next options:



Right next to the cave were two staircases - an older staircase that made climbing the mountain look rather precarious and a newer orange spiral staircase. Guess which one I took?



Whichever staircase you chose, both led to a relatively level walkway along the coast and a gorgeous view:






The walking path continued around the island for plenty of kilometers if you're of the hiking persuasion; for now, however, it was time to head back to the hotel.



After catching the bus back to Do-dong and the harbor area, I went back to my hotel room to freshen up and relax for awhile.

Stay tuned for part 2 to see how the locals party, the walking by the harbor, and what happened the next day....

Directions to Ulleungdo: Take a ferry from either Donghae city in Ganghwa-do (Mukho Port) or Pohang city in Gyeongsangnam-do(?). Only one or two ferries make the 2 1/2 to 3 hour trip every day - reserve in advance at daea.com (Korean only) or enlist the help of a tourist service like 1330 to make the reservations. Before boarding, you may be asked for your passport - it's a good idea to bring it with you.

Share Delicious Bookmark this on Delicious

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.


 

a little help from your friends

Sometimes bad things happen to lovely people.
Itta plays in a band called 10 .
She busted up her shoulder while on tour in the States.
We tried to help.

If you gave us your money,
we gave you booze


... music ...


...  a gorgeous sunny day ...


.. and some chalk ..




Remember Rachel?
Look what she made.
Recognize anyone?













Life in Korea: The top sights in Seoul - and some alternatives

Every so often I'm asked a version of the following: "So I'm coming to Seoul but I only have a couple of days (or a few days or one day)... what should I see?" Well, I'm sorry to say you're not going to like the answer. Where some smaller towns might be seen in a day or three, Seoul is far too large to say you've seen it in such a short time. Even after living in Seoul (or the area) for over two years, I wouldn't claim to have seen it all. There's a 464 page book written about the city itself by Robert Koehler (check it out on Amazon if you're not in Korea). The bottom line is there's plenty to see - albeit too much so if you're only in the city for a day or two. Let's narrow it down based on your interests or goals.

If you want to learn about history:

Most places recommend a tour of Gyeongbokgung - an authentic recreation of the Joseon Dynasty's main palace for much of the 14th-19th century. It's nice, but limited to how royalty lived. For a better spread of history, check out the National Museum of Korea - easily the most comprehensive accounting of Korea's history. The most genuine artifacts in one place are spread out over three floors, and a tour guide can explain the significance behind various items. For learning about Korea's more recent history, check out the Korean Film Archive, which offers clips of Korean movies while explaining the times in which they were made.

If you want to party like a rock star:

The Hongik University (line 2, exit 5) area is the first and most obvious choice - more university students and twentysomethings survey this area than anywhere else. Dozens of clubs and bars thrive across the street from one of Korea's most famous art universities. Several clubs never charge a cover, while some only charge a cover if there's a special event happening. If you're not interested in staying out all night, try the Konkuk University (line 2 or 7, exit 2) area - the dozens of restaurants and bars pick up earlier in the evening. The area doesn't have the same 'stay-out-all-night' feel, but if you do, getting taxis are a lot easier.

If you want to lay on the beach:

Haeundae Beach in Busan may be the most famous, but it's about as far away from Seoul as you can get. If you only have a short time in Seoul, head west to Incheon's Eulwangni Beach. It's a bit off the usual tourist trail, but worth the trip. If you can't get too far from Seoul proper, head to one of the Han River parks (say, Ttukseom Resort station on line 7). It isn't sand, but there's water and plenty of relaxing to be had.

If you need to entertain kids without going insane:

Lotte World is great if the weather's acting up, or Seoul Land if the weather's nice. Both offer more than enough rides and corporate entertainment. For something a bit different, try a baseball game at the sports complex close to Jamsil station (line 2). Not every night features a game, but most spring and summer nights do.

If you want souvenirs or proof you came to Korea:

Insa-dong is the typical suggestion made by many tourism organizations. As I'm not beholden to or employed by them, I'm sorry to say that the hand-made souvenirs are losing a lot of ground to the cheaper mass-produced stuff. Instead, head to Jogyesa - a beautiful Buddhist temple with a surprisingly large store. Even if the recipients of said souvenirs aren't religious, there's a good selection to choose from.

If you want to get your shopping on:

Seoul may be a very fashionable town, but there's a big trade-off between quality and price. Namdaemun has the cheap side of things locked up, while Gangnam and Apgujeong both offer the expensive name brands you can probably get cheaper back home. A better area to meander are the underground shopping areas - neither the cheapest nor the most expensive, and a more authentic shopping experience where haggling still works. Look around City Hall station (lines 1 & 2) and Dongdaemun station (line 1 & 4), among others.

If you want to enjoy nature:

The Dream Forest and Seoul Forest are two of the commonly recommended areas, although they're about as natural as Madonna is. By definition, nature is not usually found inside city limits - head up to Bukhansan National Park instead. Within walking distance of Dobong Station on line 1 is more nature than you can see in a week. The dozens of hiking trails start somewhat commercialized, but get much less so the further in you go. If you need to stay within the city (or a quick jaunt from the subway) try Seonyudo - a constructed garden on an island in the Han River.

If you're coming for business and have to work around that schedule:

The Seoul City Tour Bus is designed for transporting people around a small selection of the biggest tourist draws, while a nighttime offering helps you take in the nighttime scene. If you just want to get a feel for the city in limited time, this is a flexible option that enables independent traveling without worrying about how to get there. Buy one ticket, then get off and get back on as you like.

If you're interested in people-watching:

The downtown area of Jonggak (near City Hall) is one excellent place to people-watch, but it depends what sort of people you want to watch. Children's Grand Park is another place worth meandering and people-watching, if you don't mind the kids that will be out in force. Hongik University is great for people-watching as well as watching performances of all sorts.

If you just want to relax or be pampered:

The locals take their relaxing seriously - especially at a jimjilbang (찜질방). Both of the following are excellent jimjilbang - or what might be called a day spa or public bath elsewhere. Head to the centrally located Dragon Hill Spa near Yongsan station (line 1) or to The Spa in Garden Five if you're in southern Seoul or Bundang.

Share Delicious Bookmark this on Delicious

Creative Commons License © Chris Backe - 2010

This post was originally published on my blog, Chris in South Korea. If you are reading this on another website and there is no linkback or credit given, you are reading an UNAUTHORIZED FEED.


Desk Warming, a Sad Fact of Life

There have been many posts about desk warming in the blogosphere lately. Mainly because I don't know a single public school teacher who doesn't hate it. It's one thing to be tied to your desk when other people are and there is stuff to do...it's another thing when there are 2 other people in school and you are already a month ahead of schedule in lesson plans. Also, my co-teacher and I like to collaborate on all of the lesson plans so I really don't like to do them without her input.

Yesterday I did the all important:
-Read the Korea Times, the Korea Herald, the JoongAng Daily, the New York Times and the BBC.
-Every blog and web comic that I follow
-50 pages of Anna Karenina
-Watched 2 episodes of Eureka (older sci-fi channel show)
-Studied (a very small amount...have plans to do more today)
-Wrote down the starting and stopping times for the songs I'm doing during summer camp...at the end of next month.
-Made 3 cups of iced coffee.
-Filled the ice cube trays.
-Spent an inordinate amount of time on facebook.
-Started to lose my mind.

Talk about ennui. Most people would say that getting paid to do nothing is a luxury but I hate sitting still for hours at a time. I'm much more productive when I have smaller bits of time to work with. This is how lunch went (the 3 of us ordered in bibimbap): (Conversation has been translated from Korean to English).

Me (to new office worker, referred to as OW): Hi, what's your name?
O.W.: It's __________.
Me: ~repeats to clarify pronunciation.
O.W.: Yes.
Me: My name is Alex.
O.W.: nods.

~We go on eating in silence for a minute.~
O.W.: (to the music teacher) Where do you live?
Music teacher: I live in _________.
Me to OW: Where do you live?
OW: I live in ________ (name of apartment complex)
Me: Really? I live near there!
O.W.: ~Nods~

Then there was conversation between the two of them which got too complicated for me to follow. It is going to be a very lonely time until vacation. Last day of desk warming: JULY 27th!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Then I am off to Cambodia with a quick stop over in Malaysia until the 7th of August. Then some more desk warming until camp starts on the 16th. When I get back from vacation I will deep clean my classroom and decorate for camp. I'm doing a movie themed camp so I have lots of pictures and labels to put up. My lesson plan for 5 days over 9 pages, not including hand outs, examples, scripts and so forth. I need to script a few of the last days line by line (when teaching low level students it's super important to think about how you will say and present everything) but I'm going to save that work for after vacation since I will have far too much time on my hands when I get back.

Running update: No spaz attack yet. I've been very careful. I'm also inordinately sore. I refuse to ever go this long again without exercising. Getting back into shape is supremely painful.

Feel free to leave me the links of your blog or your favorite blogs to read in the comments. I'm so bored I'll check them all.

she's a little busy

Hi.
I'm sorry.
Really.
It's me, it's not you.
I've been ignoring you lately, but it's only because packing up my life and saying good bye to all my wonderful friends along with pesky visits to tax and pension offices take up too much time.

There are pictures.
I promise there are pictures, but just for the moment please enjoy this ....



Life in South Korea: Korean Commercials

Finally I got a HD Camera. I am impressed at the jump in qualiy. The first few days I had the camera it rained which meantI had to wait to get and out and use it. For awhile I have wanted to make some commercials for Korean products I have found. They use very creative English. Cass 2x has the tag line "Extreme and exclusive beer for the explosive minds". Which makes sense for a beer that is sold at every conveince  store and is 2.9% alcohol. Below I founda music video they made for the product. Be warned it is a pretty extreme video. I also mad a commercial for Lotte's Ball chocolate.

Enjoy!


My Commercials:

shinsegae

today, i went to the world’s largest department store, shinsegae. they have a golf course! they have an ice rink! they have a spa! it’s nuts.

converse store stole my heart.

the bathroom was so huge, it had a living room bigger than my entire apartment. no exaggeration. bigger than my apartment.

this place has 18 floors. count ‘em.

the best part? sky park, a terrace on the ninth floor complete with gardens, a big grass field and an incredible view.


and of course, what world-class shopping center would be complete without a restaurant adorned with mobiles made from actual dried blowfish bodies?


 

If the ROK-US Alliance Were a Picture…

U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Rodham Clinton, center, and U.S. Secretary of Defense Robert Gates, second from right, are briefed at the truce village of Panmunjom in the demilitarized zone that separates the two Koreas. (Pool photo by Paul J. Richards)…it would look spruce. But, really, this looks like damage control.


U.S. officials said they expect an announcement Wednesday of “country-specific sanctions” against North Korea. One official described them as “strong,” and said they would target banks and other institutions but declined to be more specific.

South Korea’s foreign minister, Yu Myung-hwan, told YTN television Tuesday that he also expected Washington to announce additional sanctions against North Korea.

Gates, arriving a day earlier than Clinton, announced Tuesday with his South Korean counterpart Kim Tae-young that the U.S. and South Korea would push ahead with four days of joint military exercises starting Sunday.

The U.S. stations 28,500 soldiers in South Korea, a legacy of the Korean War, and routinely holds joint military drills that raise the ire of North Korean officials, who cite the threat as a main reason for building up its nuclear program.

The DMZ visit, Korean War commemoration and security talks reflect Washington’s “strong relationship and partnership” with South Korea, U.S. State Department spokesman P.J. Crowley said in Washington on Tuesday.

“We hope that North Korea’s paying attention. We hope that it will understand that we are fully committed to the defense of South Korea, and we hope that it will take steps as a result to reduce tensions, improve relations with its neighbors, cease these provocative actions and work more constructively towards denuclearization of the Korean peninsula,” he said.

U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Rodham Clinton, right, shakes hands with U.S. Ambassador to South Korea Kathleen Stephens at the Seoul Military Airport in Seongnam, South Korea, July 21. (AP Photo)Is the US really at a loss for what to do with the DPRK? And, this sounds diplomatic.

Geoff Morrell, the Pentagon press secretary, said that the United Nations command tried to officially inform the North Koreans on Tuesday about the exercises, but they refused, he said, to accept the communication. The United Nations command at the DMZ then resorted to shouting the message by bullhorn across the border.

But, if all else fails, Mrs. Clinton can wear the mutual national colors, and the North Koreans can leer through the window. Classic!

Powered by ScribeFire.


Filed under: Korea, Military, USA Tagged: dmz, dprk, hillary rodham, north korea, robert gates, rok, South Korea

Pages

Subscribe to Koreabridge MegaBlog Feed