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Huirangdae Hermitage – 희랑대 (Hapcheon, Gyeongsangnam-do)

The Hermitage Grounds at Huirangdae Hermitage at Haeinsa Temple in Hapcheon, Gyeongsangnam-do.

Hermitage History

Huirangdae Hermitage is located on the Haeinsa Temple grounds in Hapcheon, Gyeongsangnam-do. The picturesque hermitage was first founded by Huirang-josa (889-956 A.D.) at the end of the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.). However, after the hermitage was first founded by Huirang-josa as a meditative retreat, very little is known about the hermitage beyond its founding.

As for Huirang-josa, he contributed greatly to the unification of the nation under Goryeo rule (918-1392). Not only that, but he helped in the development of Korean Buddhism. More specifically, it’s said that Huirang-josa was a scholarly monk who was well educated in the study of Hwaeom-jong (The Flower Garland Sect). Huirang-josa stayed at Haeinsa Temple and spiritually helped Wang Geon, who was to become the founder of the Goryeo Dynasty as King Taejo of Goryeo (r. 918-943 A.D.). Huirang-josa would go on to help rebuild and reconstruct large parts of Haeinsa Temple, as well.

More recently, Huirangdae Hermitage was rebuilt in 1940. And in subsequent years, it has been repaired and expanded.

This hermitage is often compared to the scenic Bodeokam Hermitage on Mt. Geumgangsan in present-day North Korea. The reason for this is the similar surroundings and beautiful views. Like Bodeokam Hermitage, a natural cliff is part of the topography around the hermitage, while stones were stacked between the rocks to help build a site for the shrine halls.

In addition to the topography, there is a legend that surrounds Huirangdae Hermitage, as well. According to this legend, there was a person who became rich by praying to the image of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) inside the Samseong-gak Hall. Another interesting opinion is that the mountains surrounding the hermitage resemble that of a crab. Because of this belief, and the idea of crabs becoming entangled if they get too close to each other, only one monk lives at Huirangdae Hermitage at a time. I’m not sure if this is still true; but when I visited, I could only see one monk at the hermitage. One other interesting fact about the hermitage is that there used to be an old pine tree that was situated next to the Samseong-gak Hall. It was believed that this old pine tree was first planted by Huirang-josa. Ten years ago, this old pine tree dried up and eventually died.

Hermitage Layout

You first make your way towards Huirangdae Hermitage to the south of Haeinsa Temple and up a road that houses a cluster of hermitages. In a bend in a road, and just past the turn-off for Jijokam Hermitage, you’ll find Huirang-dae Hermitage. As you near the hermitage, you’ll instantly notice the amazing topography that the hermitage enjoys. Looking out towards the hermitage buildings, you’ll first encounter a diminutive and modern three-story stone pagoda. Beyond this pagoda, and past the hermitage buildings, you’ll see the beautifully framed Jijokam Hermitage in the background.

To your right, you’ll pass by the hermitage’s administrative offices, monks’ dorms, and kitchen. Beyond this collection of buildings, there’s a stone bridge that hugs the mountain face. The first of the two buildings in this area is the Huirangdae Hall, which is where Huirang-josa purportedly meditated. This shrine hall appears to be off-limits to the general public. You can tell just how special this part of the hermitage is, because if you look back you’ll notice other hermitages off in the distance including Bohyeonam Hermitage and Wondangam Hermitage. The view is especially beautiful during the autumn months. And if you look down, you’ll see the terraced stonework that supports the southern part of the hermitage grounds. Also, if you look a bit further north, and just below the Huirangdae shrine hall, you’ll see what almost looks like the contours of the Buddha’s face and body protruding out from the mountain wall.

Beyond the Huirangdae Hall, you’ll notice another hermitage shrine hall. This is the Samseong-gak Hall. The exterior walls to this shaman shrine hall are beautifully adorned in dancheong colours and murals dedicated to the Nahan (The Historical Disciples of the Buddha), Dokseong (The Lonely Saint), and various dragons and phoenixes. Stepping inside the Samseong-gak Hall, you’ll find the central image of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) in the centre of the three most popular shaman deities. This is rather peculiar because it’s typically Chilseong (The Seven Stars) that’s situated in the centre of the three shaman deities. The reason for this is the unique energy that surrounds Dokseong. The reason for this belief in this spiritual energy is that numerous wishes have been granted after praying to this statue of Dokseong including becoming rich. To the right of the central image of Dokseong is a rather uniquely painted image of Chilseong. And to the left of this central image of Dokseong is an older mural dedicated to Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit). This image of Sanshin is hooded, and he holds a green leaf fan in his left hand. At his side is a roaring tiger. It almost appears as though Sanshin is partially seated atop this ferocious tiger.

While heading back to the hermitage parking lot, you’ll notice a small set of stairs to the rear of the monks’ facilities. These stairs lead up to a mountaintop trail and overlook. From this overlook, you get another amazing look out towards the neighbouring hermitages, as well as a pretty spectacular view of Huirangdae Hermitage.

The “Dry-lacquered Seated Statue of Buddhist Monk Huirang at Haeinsa Temple” inside the Haeinsa Temple Museum.
The historic statue from a different angle.

The “Dry-lacquered Seated Statue of Buddhist Monk Huirang at Haeinsa Temple”

As a bit of a side note, but since it’s still relevant to Huirang-josa, I thought I would mention it here. In 2020, the “Dry-lacquered Seated Statue of Buddhist Monk Huirang at Haeinsa Temple” was named as a National Treasure. This statue of Huirang-josa is the only extant carved representation of an eminent Korean Buddhist monk in the country. It’s presumed to have first been made in the early part of the 10th century. This was at a time when many carved images of monks were being made in both China and Japan but not on the Korean Peninsula.

According to records from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), this statue was kept at Haeinsa Temple; however, it was moved around quite a bit at the temple, moving from the Haehaeng-dang Hall, the Jinsang-jeon Hall, and the Josa-jeon Hall. And finally, it was housed inside the Bojang-jeon Hall for hundreds of years until it arrived at its current address inside the Haeinsa Temple Museum.

As for the style of the statue, it has realistic features. The statue has a tranquil gaze, a light smile, and an emaciated-looking body and face. Additionally, there is a small hole made in the centre of the chest. According to a legend, the hole was made to let mosquitoes suck blood from the statue. This would help prevent other living monks from being bitten. Additionally, the hole in the chest of a highly respected monk is thought to also symbolize supernatural powers.

How To Get There

To get to Huirangdae Hermitage, you’ll first need to get to Haeinsa Temple. And to get to Haeinsa Temple, you’ll first need to get to the Seobu Bus Terminal in Daegu. From here, you can catch an express bus to Haeinsa Temple. This express bus departs every 40 minutes, and the bus ride lasts about an hour and a half. After arriving at Haeinsa Temple, you’ll need to head south from the Iljumun Gate. You’ll pass by a collection of biseok (stele) and budo (stupa). There is a mountain road with a large rock and sign markers that point you towards the four hermitages in this area of the Haeinsa Temple grounds. You’ll first pass Gukilam Hermitage along the way, until you eventually come to a road to your left. This is the road that leads up to Huirangdae Hermitage. In total, the walk from Haeinsa Temple to Huirangdae Hermitage takes about 24 minutes, or 1 km, up a mountainside road.

Overall Rating: 5/10

By far, the best thing about Huirangdae Hermitage are the views. From this hermitage, you can see all of the neighbouring hermitages, as well as the beautiful peaks of Mt. Gaysan (1,433 m) off in the distance. In addition to all of the spectacular views, especially during the autumn months, take your time to enjoy the interior of the Samseong-gak Hall. All three of the paintings and murals dedicated to Sanshin, Dokseong, and Chilseong are masterful in their own right. And if you have the time, make your way over to the Haeinsa Museum to see the “Dry-lacquered Seated Statue of Buddhist Monk Huirang at Haeinsa Temple.” The historic statue is both stunning and unique.

The view as you first enter the hermitage grounds.
The Huirangdae (left) and Samseong-gak Hall (right) at Huirangdae Hermitage.
A look down at the Buddha-like stone that supports the weight of the Huirangdae.
The view that looks out onto neighbouring hermitages at Haeinsa Temple from Huirangdae Hermitage.
The Samseong-gak Hall at the hermitage.
A look up at the amazing dancheong.
An image of Dokseong (The Lonely Saint) that adorns one of the exterior walls of the shaman shrine hall.
The view from the Samseong-gak Hall.
The amazing image of Sanshin (The Mountain Spirit) inside the Samseong-gak Hall.
The view to the right of the Huirangdae.
The mountaintop view of both Huirangdae Hermitage and Jijokam Hermitage off in the distance.
A closer look at the two.
A look down at the three-story pagoda at the entry of the hermitage and a look out towards Mt. Gayasan off in the distance.

TXT’s Unique Speech Decoded by Korean Teacher

TXT ("TOMORROW X TOGETHER") is a Korean group formed in 2019 by Big Hit Music and consists of five members. I share my analysis on each member, including how they speak overall, any unique things to notice about their Korean, as well as their writing, dialect usage, and personality.

Make sure to leave a comment if you watch the video!

The post TXT’s Unique Speech Decoded by Korean Teacher appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

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Living History – Dan Y.T. Cheung (Born – 1957)

Jogyesa Temple in Jongno, Seoul in October, 2004.

One of the great things about running a website about Korean Buddhist temples is that you get to meet a lot of amazing people. And a lot of these amazing people have varying backgrounds, interests, and insights. Rather amazingly, some of these people first visited Korea in the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. Here are their stories!

Q1: When and why did you first come to Korea?

A: I was born in Seoul in 1957.

Q2: When you first came to Korea what city did you live in? Did you subsequently move around?

A: I lived in Seoul at my paternal grandfather’s house, which my father grew up in. It was re-built after being destroyed during the Korean War (1950-53). I moved to Japan at the age of three and lived there for eight years, with summer visits to Korea, where I stayed with my father’s and mother’s parents in Seoul and one summer in Daejeon, when my mother’s father was appointed to a government post by Park Chunghee [1917-79]. This is ironic since my grandfather was once on a list of official “enemies” by the Park regime. He didn’t volunteer, he was “convinced” by “being made an offer he couldn’t refuse.” We moved back to Korea in late 1968 and stayed until 1973, which was when I met Betty and Bill Krause.

I returned to Korea while serving in the US Army for Exercise Team Spirit 84 and again for TS 85 for deployments and temporary duty. I got to visit my family and friends.

Magoksa Temple during Japanese Colonial Rule from 1910-45. (Picture courtesy of the National Museum of Korea).

Q3: What was the first temple you visited in Korea?

A: Not sure, we visited so many of them. Jogyesa Temple in Seoul for sure, and various temples in Gyeonggi-do and Chungcheongnam-do. My father’s family was from Gongju [Chungcheongnam-do] and the family made contributions to Magoksa Temple. My great-grandmother (paternal grandfather’s mother) was particularly devoted to practice and a confirmed vegetarian who followed ahimsa toward all living creatures.

Q4: What drew your interest to Korean Buddhist temples? (Buddhism, architecture, art, history, etc)

A: It was part of my family traditions, which were a Confucian-Buddhist syncretism during centuries of cyclic rising and waning of support for Buddhism since the Baekje Kingdom [18 B.C. – 660 A.D.], especially after being invaded by Silla Kingdom [57 B.C. – 935 A.D.] and the Goguryeo Kingdom [37 B.C. – 668 A.D.), and the Mongols [1231-1257]. Me and my sister (including her son) are the only actively practicing Buddhists in my family, the others have kind of lapsed because of the rigors of practice, or they just lost interest.

Q5: What is your favourite temple? Why?

A: I liked Jogyesa Temple because it was the easiest to visit, but Magoksa Temple is where my ancestors’ spirit tablets were kept and the monks advised them on dharma.

Q6: What temple or hermitage has changed the most from when you were first got here? What has changed about it?

A: Since I had last personally visited them in the 1960s and 1970s, Magoksa Temple and a few others in Gyeonggi-do had dramatically changed when I saw them in the 1980s; and even more so, when I saw recent pictures of them. I knew things had changed a lot when I noticed that bridges were rebuilt and there were a Coca-Cola vending machine and an ATM machine on the premises of Magoksa Temple!

Outside the Seokguram Grotto in Gyeongju in October, 2005.

Q7: What was the most difficult temple to get to? How did you get there?

A: Seokguram Grotto. We were on an overnight field trip, and we walked up to it in 1972. There were no paved roads to the top of the mountain, only the footpaths and stairs. Good news was that we were able to go inside and walk around the Seokgamoni-bul [The Historical Buddha] statue and look directly at the carvings on the walls. There was another temple in Gangwon-do that I visited in 1985 (can’t recall the name), but it was a small one in the hills in the middle of nowhere. No paved roads, only a footpath. The monks were amused to see me, dressed in full army combat gear.

Q8: Did you remain in Korea or did you return home?

A: I left Korea and returned to the US due to my father’s job transfer with the Corps of Engineers, and then I went to college. I served as an army officer, and then I lived in the USA, eventually settling in southern Maine.

My Son Reacts to a REAL Korean Food Alleyway

Tongin Market is an outdoor marketplace in Seoul that's kind of like a pay-as-you-go buffet, where you choose only what you want from several of the vendors in a long alleyway. One thing that makes this place unique is that you can also pay using traditional coins, called 엽전, which makes the experience more memorable and fun. I went there together with my son and we ate until we were full, and then ate some more. (This video is not sponsored.)

The post My Son Reacts to a REAL Korean Food Alleyway appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

The Plain Form (Conjugation + Usage) | Live Class Abridged

The Plain Form has many uses ranging from grammar forms (such as quoting statements), to writing (such as in test example sentences), and to speaking (such as to friends, or to yourself). In Sunday's most recent live stream I taught how to conjugate the Plain Form, as well as when and how to use the Plain Form. Here's the summarized version.

The post The Plain Form (Conjugation + Usage) | Live Class Abridged appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

Wollamsa-ji Temple Site – 월남사지 (Gangjin, Jeollanam-do)

The Wollamsa-ji Temple Site in Gangjin, Jeollanam-do.

Temple Site History

The Wollamsa-ji Temple Site is located in northern Gangjin, Jeollanam-do in the southern foothills of Mt. Wolchulsan (810.7 m). In fact, it’s just over the hill from the famed Muwisa Temple. The history of this temple is largely unknown. According to a 16th century document, it was founded by the monk Hyesim (Jingak-guksa, 1178-1234), during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). However, recent excavations of the site in the 2010s revealed not only building sites, roof tile shards and celadon shards from the Goryeo Dynasty, but also roof tiles from the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C. – 660 A.D.). This suggests that the temple was founded during the Baekje Kingdom and later expanded during the Goryeo Dynasty.

The overall layout of the temple site is typical of Buddhist temples built during Unified Silla (668-935 A.D.); and yet, the buildings and extant east pagoda (Korean Treasure #298) date to the Goryeo Dynasty. There are no specific records as to when the temple fell into disrepair, but it’s presumed to have been destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-98) and never restored. The reason for this, and based upon historical records, the only temple that still remained in the area after the Imjin War was the neighbouring Muwisa Temple.

In total, there are two Korean Treasures at the Wollamsa-ji Temple Site. They are the “Stele for State Preceptor Jingak at Wollamsa Temple Site,” which is Korean Treasure #313; as well as the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Wollamsa Temple Site,” which is Korean Treasure #298. As for the temple site itself, it’s Jeollanam-do Monument #125.

The “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Wollamsa Temple Site” from 1934. (Picture courtesy of the National Museum of Korea).
And the “Stele for State Preceptor Jingak at Wollamsa Temple Site” also from 1934. (Picture courtesy of the National Museum of Korea).

Temple Site Layout

Formerly, the Wollamsa-ji Temple Site was surrounded by private homes. Now, and after years of archaeological work and reconstruction, the former temple site now lies in a clearing with Mt. Wolchulsan framing the temple site grounds. In addition to all the labourous work that has been completed to make the Wollamsa-ji Temple Site look the way it does, there is also recent construction to the south of the temple site grounds to make the temple site a fully operational temple, once more.

With all that being said, and from the temple site parking lot, you can see the sprawling temple site grounds out in front of you to the north. The first thing to stand out when you approach the Wollamsa-ji Temple site, besides the newly reconstructed Daeungbo-jeon Hall that stands on the former Geumdang-ji Site, is the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Wollamsa Temple Site.” Formerly, there were two pagodas, both an east and west pagoda, but the west pagoda no longer stands; instead, all that remains is the eastern pagoda. The pagoda appears to be made of bricks, but it’s actually built by piling up natural stones that are cut to look like bricks. This style of pagoda is rare. The three-story pagoda rests on top of a single story pedestal. The square pedestal is made of neatly cut stone blocks with a capstone on top of them. The three body stones are also made of stone blocks with capstones. The first-story body stone is the biggest with the two subsequent body stones growing smaller in size. However, all three body stones use the same method and style. While built during the Goryeo Dynasty, the pagoda retains a Baekje-style, which is where the pagoda is located (on the former lands of the Baekje Kingdom). The style of this pagoda closely resembles that of the “Five-Story Stone Pagoda at Jeongnimsa Temple Site” in Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do. In both style and size, the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Wollamsa Temple Site” is incredibly important. The “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Wollamsa Temple Site” is Korean Treasure #298.

Backing the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Wollamsa Temple Site” is the newly constructed Daeungbo-jeon Hall that rests upon the former Geumdang-ji Site. The exterior walls to the Daeungbo-jeon Hall are still unadorned (and might remain that way). Stepping inside the main hall, you’ll find a triad of golden statues resting on the main altar. Resting in the centre of this triad is an image of Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha), who appears to be joined by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) and Yaksayeorae-bul (The Buddha of the Eastern Paradise, and the Buddha of Medicine). Beyond the main altar, the sumidan, you’ll find rows of statuettes dedicated solely to Seokgamoni-bul. And hanging on the far left wall is a modern Shinjung Taenghwa (Guardian Mural).

To the immediate right and left of the Daeungbo-jeon Hall are two long rectangular raised pieces of land. These are two former corridors. Directly behind the new main hall is another raised piece of land that was a shorter corridor that led to three former buildings at the Wollamsa-ji Temple Site. The last of these raised pieces of land was the former lecture hall at the temple. To the right of the eastern corridor site, the Hoerang-ji, is a collection of two additional building sites. You’ll also find a water well in this area, too.

The final thing that visitors can explore is to the far west. Housed inside a large wooden pavilion is the “Stele for State Preceptor Jingak at Wollamsa Temple Site.” This stele, which is known as a “biseok” in Korean, was made to commemorate Jingak-guksa (1178-1234). The stele was first erected in 1250. Jingak-guksa’s name was Choe Hye-sim. He passed the state civil examination when he was 24 years old. However, after his mom died, he became a monk. Jingak-guksa learned under the famed monk Jinul (1158-1210). Jingak-guksa would become the successor to Jinul.

Traditionally, a Korean stele consists of three parts: the tortoise-shaped base, the body stone, and the capstone. The “Stele for State Preceptor Jingak at Wollamsa Temple Site” has a beautiful tortoise-shaped base. The tortoise has its neck stretched outward with a bead in its mouth. It’s placed all four of its feet on the ground, and it looks both strong and realistic. The shell of the tortoise as hexagonal shapes on its back, and it supports the weight of the partial body stone that still remains. The other half of the body stone is now housed at the Gwangju National Museum. The surface of the remaining stone has nearly been worn away. And the capstone is completely missing.

How To Get There

From the Gangjin Intercity Bus Terminal, you’ll need to walk about 5 minutes to get to the “Gangjin Jeonhwaguk – 강진 전화국” bus stop. You’ll then need to take the “Nongeo-chon 농어촌 5-1” bus. This type of bus is typically a town bus. After one hour, or 22 stops, you’ll need to get off at the “Wollam – 월남” bus stop. And from where the bus drops you off, you’ll be right at the Wollamsa-ji Temple Site.

Overall Rating: 6/10

The Wollamsa-ji Temple Site is one of the most beautifully located temple sites in all of Korea with the beautiful Mt. Wolchulsan as a backdrop and the surrounding green tea fields. In addition to all of its natural beauty are the pair of Korean Treasures, the “Stele for State Preceptor Jingak at Wollamsa Temple Site” and the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Wollamsa Temple Site.” It’s hard to believe that just a decade ago that this entire area was inundated with houses.

The beautiful Wollamsa-ji Temple Site with Mt. Wolchulsan in the background.
A closer look at the newly built Daeungbo-jeon Hall and the historic “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Wollamsa Temple Site.”
A closer look at the “Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Wollamsa Temple Site.”
From a different angle.
The main altar inside the Daeungbo-jeon Hall.
A look up at Mt. Wolchulsan.
From a different angle.
A walk through the former building sites.
The pavilion that houses the “Stele for State Preceptor Jingak at Wollamsa Temple Site.”
An up-close of the tortoise-base to the stele.
The “Stele for State Preceptor Jingak at Wollamsa Temple Site” from the side.
And an up-close.

Why Small Talk is Different in Korea - Understanding the Culture

This is an aspect of Korean culture I had to learn over time, but Koreans typically don't initiate small talk (or appreciate it) the same way that we do in the US and in many other countries. However, there are many situations where you can do it, and even when they'd appreciate it, but you'll have to learn those before attempting them in order to avoid making others uncomfortable.

I met with Gillian 쌤 and we discussed how to do small talk in Korea, and when to avoid it completely in today's newest "A Glass with Billy" episode.

The post Why Small Talk is Different in Korea - Understanding the Culture appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

Living History – Peggy McLeod (Peace Corps – 1971)

Peggy McLeod at Her School’s Surprise Good-Bye Party in 1973. (Picture Courtesy of Peggy McLeod).

One of the great things about running a website about Korean Buddhist temples is that you get to meet a lot of amazing people. And a lot of these amazing people have varying backgrounds, interests, and insights. Rather amazingly, some of these people first visited Korea in the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. Here are their stories!

Q1: Where are you originally from? Introduce yourself a little.

A: I’m originally from Jacksonville, Florida, USA. I currently live outside of Asheville, North Carolina, where I settled after returning from Korea in 1973. I’m a retired teacher and school administrator in both the US and international school settings. I retired in 2016. I have two daughters and one grandson. Both of my daughters have visited Korea with me, my younger in 1999 and my older in 2013. 


Q2: When and why did you first come to Korea?

A: I served as a Peace Corps volunteer in Korea from 1971 to 1973. I wanted to serve in the Peace Corps soon after President John F. Kennedy established the program because it promoted peace and mutual understanding among people of all cultures. My majors in college were sociology/anthropology, and the Peace Corps seemed to be the right fit for me after graduation.

While in Korea, I taught English as a Second Language to middle school students in all girls’ schools. I shared classroom instruction with a Korean co-teacher. I also led local and regional teacher workshops and special English clubs for students. 

With school faculty outside the Seokguram Grotto. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).
With students at Bulguksa Temple. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).


Q3: When you first came to Korea what city did you live in? Did you subsequently move around?

A: My first year in Korea, I served in Sangju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. It was a small town at the time, and there was another male volunteer who taught at Sangju Boys’ Middle School, while I taught at Sangju Girls’ Middle School. I lived with a Korean family in a very modest, old traditional Korean style house on the outskirts of town. The family consisted of a mother, a father and three young children. There was also an old grandfather who rented a room in the corner of the yard. I learned nearly everything I know about Korean culture, food, language, customs and family life from my time with this family in Sangju.

My second year in Korea, I served in Daegu at Won Wha Girls’ Middle School. During the summer, and after my first year, I suffered a back injury and was in traction in Severance Hospital in Seoul for two weeks. At that time, it was determined that I would be better off in Daegu, where medical care was more easily accessible, should I need it.

Placement in a rural setting was very isolating for many female volunteers in Korea, and although I maintained a good relationship with my Sangju family, I had more independence and social opportunities in Daegu. I rented a room and an outdoor kitchen there, and I cooked for myself. There was a Peace Corps office in Daegu, so there were opportunities to meet up with other volunteers and expats.


Q4: What was the first temple you visited in Korea?

A: The first temple I visited was Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju. It was on a school trip with dozens of middle school students and teachers, not the most ideal way to see my first temple. In addition, I had only been in Korea for a few weeks, and I was in the midst of serious culture shock! I was having difficulty with the food, the language, the rats in my living space, the outhouse and so many other experiences. The last thing I wanted to do was go on a long school trip by train and bus with the school for a week. But of course it was expected that I join the trip. We toured Gyeongju and Bulguksa Temple. I was even convinced to wake up before dawn and hike with all the students up the mountain to see the Seokguram Grotto, which was completely open to enter at that time. Needless to say, I wouldn’t have wanted to miss that experience!

Unfortunately, the new camera that I purchased in Japan on the way to Korea was left on a city bus in Seoul less than two weeks after I arrived. So I spent two years without a camera. What photos I have were copies given to me by generous friends and colleagues. I have very few photos of temples, but I still have my fading memories.

During that first year in Sangju, I also visited Namjangsa Temple near Sangju with my family.  We hiked to the temple together and I have photos of us on the trail, but not of the temple itself. I remember this being the first time I had an opportunity to truly appreciate the remote beauty of Korean temples.

While living in Daegu, I frequently visited Haeinsa Temple, and it became my favorite temple in Korea.

Peggy McLeod with her Korean mother and children on the walk to Namjangsa Temple. (Picture coutesy of Peggy McLeod).
Peggy with her Korean father on the walk to Namjangsa Temple. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).
Peggy McLeod with female faculty at Jeongnimsa-ji Temple Site in Buyeo, Chungcheongnam-do. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).

Q5: What drew your interest to Korean Buddhist temples? (Buddhism, architecture, art, history, etc)

A: I was most interested in the Korean Buddhist temples’ remote and beautiful settings, as well as the ornate and colorful architecture. I came to further appreciate their unique beauty after visiting the less colorful temples in Japan and the gilded temples of Thailand. I particularly appreciate the level of difficulty and commitment it took to reach many of the most remote temples in Korea. However, I also appreciate the somewhat easier access nowadays. 


Q6: What is your favourite temple? Why?

A: My favorite temple is Haeinsa Temple. There is a sense of serenity in the walk from the main road up to the impressive entry gate. The sound of the stream rushing along boulders and the fluttering leaves of the trees that line the entry make it a meditative experience as you approach the temple grounds. The temple grounds are at once impressive and intimate. All buildings are easily accessible and the sight of the Tripitaka Koreana Woodblocks left me speechless with each visit.

I visited Haeinsa Temple numerous times while living in Korea, and also with my younger daughter when I returned in 1999. Back in Peace Corps days a group of us often stayed overnight in the village near the entrance to the temple. We did the same when my daughter and I revisited. I always find great peace when I visit Haeinsa Temple.

Fellow Peace Corps volunteer, Dennis Callahan, at Haeinsa Temple. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).
Fellow pilgrims on the road to Haeinsa Temple. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).
Picnic with Peace Corps volunteers and fellow pilgrims on the road to Haeinsa Temple. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).


Q7: Did you remain in Korea or did you return home?

A: I returned home in 1973 after serving for two years in Peace Corps Korea. I revisited Korea for the first time with my younger daughter in 1999. At that time, she was the same age that I was when I first arrived in Korea, 21 years old. I had lost my Korean language skills over the years, and found it difficult to orient myself with all the changes in Korea from the fast trains, high rise buildings and big cities where villages used to be. I experienced culture shock of a different kind during that visit! When I was not able to find familiar sights in my home town of Sangju, I knew where I needed to go, the temples! So we headed to Gyeongju and then to Haeinsa Temple, where I found the true spirit of Korea, at least for me. It was a wonderful trip overall, but the changes were quite overwhelming.

I was fortunate to bring my older daughter with me on a Peace Corps Korea revisit in 2013. This was a trip arranged by the Korea Foundation and Friends of Korea, and it was a very different experience from my return in 1999. We had translators, and I was able to reconnect with my family and school in Sangju and with a teacher colleague from Daegu and so much more!  While we were not able to return to Haeinsa Temple, we enjoyed exploring Jogyesa Temple, which was a block away from our hotel. It was during their Chrysanthemum Festival, and the temple was highly decorated. It was my daughter’s first encounter with a Korean Buddhist temple and she was enthralled, as was I. 

I have so many fond memories of my time spent living in Korea, and I can say without hesitation that visiting these few Korean Buddhist temples made lasting impressions on me and deepened my appreciation of their cultural and historical influences in Korea. In my mind, they reflect the heart and soul of Korea.

Peggy McLeod’s daughter at Jogyesa Temple in Seoul at the Chrysanthemum Festival in 2013. (Picture courtesy of Peggy McLeod).



Frequency Time Words | Live Class Abridged

During the most recent live classroom I taught about more time-related words, including 자주, 잘, 방금 & 금방, (지금) 당장, 가끔(씩), 종종, (때)때로, 즉시 & 즉각 (and more). These words are all related to talking about the time in Korean.

My live stream topics are suggested by channel members and Patreon supporters, so if you'd like to suggest a future live class make sure to let me know~!

The post Frequency Time Words | Live Class Abridged appeared first on Learn Korean with GO! Billy Korean.

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