Tuesday, early as hell AM.
It was 5:45; the earliest I had been up in years and it was still dark when I left the apartment. I arrive at the bus terminal for the second time in 12 hours to try to snag tickets in the midst of the busiest holiday in Korea. I was accused of lunacy the night before for waiting till the day-of to purchase tickets. You can’t get tickets in advance anyhow, and I had already promised all my friends I had it in the bag, just meet me at 9:15 at the terminal.
I proceed to the ticket counter, again, at 6 AM and ask the girl at the counter for 7 tickets to Namhae at 9:40. “Anniyo”, she says, with her wrists formed in an X to further drive the point home. “Don’t have?” I ask her, ”Upsayo?” – the only way I could come up with to inquire if tickets were already sold out. “No, anytime”, she answers. What the hell is that supposed to mean? I try again. “7 tickets, 9:40″. Again with the wrists. I shrug in frustration and head to the back of the deepening line to pull out my cell phone. I place a call to the foreigner help line, but of course, closed for Chuseok. I then try to call that same supportive friend of mine who had told me I was crazy to attempt such a feat, but he apparently decided to sleep in this morning. I’ll try another counter.
The frustration is seeping deeper into my pores as I wait in the long line at a different counter to the far left. I try to be optimistic, but the advancing possibility that I may miss the bus to my 3 days of beach, booze, and camping makes it difficult to avoid this osmosis. I finally arrive at the window and ask this girl the same thing: 9:40 to Namhae, 7 tickets. A few finger strokes on the keyboard later and 7 tickets are printed from the machine and handed over to me through the little archway in the window. I feel a wave of relief, though notice there is no time on the tickets which could only imply that this show is being run on a first come, first serve basis. Ahhh… “Anytime“, now I see. At this point I have regained my optimism and decide that at least we will get on a bus at some point. I head downstairs to the terminal.
What a goddamn racket! It is nearing 7AM at this point, and the terminal is even more crowded than the ticket room. I have a few vague ideas of how the fiasco formally known as boarding a bus should play out, but this mess delivers a sneaking suspicion that all rules are out the window on this Korean Thanksgiving’s Eve. I grab a seat among a group of Koreans furiously fanning themselves in vain attempt to counteract the humid heat to scope things out before selecting a line. About 15 minutes tells me that if I will be near the front of any of these lines by 9:15, I need to act now. I select the ‘logical’ line that leads under the gate labeled “Namhae”.
A few frantic line switches and three and a half hours later finds me and my 6 waygooken friends on a bus snagging the last few seats and the floor. Three and a half more hours in bumper to bumper traffic and we finally arrive in Namhae.
To reach the island the bus crosses a long, red suspension bridge resembling a smaller Golden Gate into a land of rice fields sweeping through the hills, traditional Korean homes with tin roofs secured by black rubber tires, and Korea’s token rusted blue Hyundai pickup trucks. We made it.
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