The leaves are falling, it's getting dark earlier and earlier and the days are rapidly becoming frigid. I think it's safe to say winter is coming to Korea, and coming quickly. It's been a beautiful fall full of fun activities for this Seoulmate and I will cling onto every last day of the season until winter approaches and I hibernate in my Ondol cave for the next few months. Although I do plan on going on a few more hikes before I have to strap on my snow shoes, I think I am ready to proclaim my fall favorite.
The weekend of October 11th, 2013 was officially Seoraksan's peak weekend for foliage and my first trip to the amazing national park.
I again joined Indigo Hills hiking group on a 24 hour trip to Seoraksan. The itinerary included Oseak - Daecheongbong - Jungcheongbong - Socheongbong - Hweiungak shelter - Dinosaur Ridge - Madeungryeong - Bisundae - Shinheungsa - Sogongwon. There was also a second more leisurely hike provided by the group.
I again joined Indigo Hills hiking group on a 24 hour trip to Seoraksan. The itinerary included Oseak - Daecheongbong - Jungcheongbong - Socheongbong - Hweiungak shelter - Dinosaur Ridge - Madeungryeong - Bisundae - Shinheungsa - Sogongwon. There was also a second more leisurely hike provided by the group.
Our trip began at 11:00pm on Friday evening. I left my house equipped with warm snivel gear and hiking clothes and boarded a subway car full of young Koreans dressed in club attire and smelling of fresh alcohol, ready for a night on the town. This was the furthest thing from my mind, as I braced myself for hours of hiking in my near future. About 30 hikers met at Sports Complex stadium where a chartered bus drove us to the base of Oseak in Seoraksan national park, our starting point. The bus ride took about three hours from Seoul.
Daecheongbong is the highest peak in the park. It is to the east of this mountain is OeSeorak and to the west is NaeSeorak (which is divided into North NaeSeorak and South NaeSeorak.) This was where we headed to watch the sunrise. The gate for this peak opens at 3:00 am, allowing hikers to make it to the peak for sunrise.
We joined hundreds of other hikers, as the gate doors opened and we ALL made our way up the mountain. I was quickly reminded of morning commutes into a city, as hundreds of head lamps were suddenly very reminiscent of stop and go vehicular traffic.
Finally around 6:15am I reached the summit of the mountain. The sun was climbing into the sky at the same pace as my legs moved me and it peeked through the clouds and made its first appearance as I reached the peak.
The summit looked more like a packed parking lot as people watched the sunrise. It was also freezing! I had been told to dress warmly, but wished I had additional layers as the wind howled through my jacket and scarf. I tried to get to the peak's shelter as quickly as possible to avoid the freezing temperatures but had little luck with the large sea of people around me. Finally, after getting wind chapped cheeks I entered the shelter and had some relief from the bitter wind.
I know what you're thinking... you said this was your favorite hike of the fall? Well this is the part when it starts to get much better.
After buying a warm can of coffee (sold at the shelter) and sitting inside to stop my chattering teeth for a while, I met up with several group members and we continued on to Hweiungak shelter where we had breakfast. The shelter was at the opposite side of the base of the mountain we had just climbed and in the heart of Seoraksan National Park. As we descended towards it, on metal stairs built into the cliffs of the mountain, the park unfolded before our eyes under the warm morning sun. Beautiful foliage could be seen for miles amongst the many mountain peaks. The views were stunning.
After reaching the second lodge we sat down to breakfast and shared a meal amongst one another. As usual, everyone brought plenty to share and passed around international foods. After our meal the group divided up. 16 members decided to continue on and tackle dinosaur ridge.
Dinosaur ridge or Manmul-sang is comprised of six rock peaks that look like the back of a dinosaur, thus giving its nickname. It is located in the Southeastern Seoraksan. We quickly learned, that once you are in dinosaur ridge there is only two ways out, either by foot or from the several locations that can be reached only by helicopter.
As we neared the summit of the first mountain exposed rocks emerged. Wire ropes were secured into the rocks for hikers to use to reach the top. Stairs, ropes, and ladders have been secured throughout dinosaur ridge to help hikers in challenging locations
As we climbed over the exposed rock suddenly a helicopter emerged from the sky. The co-pilot motioned for us to get down and our group held fast to the metal ropes, crouched together. The helicopter neared us, and dirt, rock and debris flew through the air from its wings. A hiker in another group with a broken leg was airlifted from the mountain. This was not a reassuring sign as we began the first leg of our 13 hour trek across dinosaur ridge. I again wondered what I had gotten myself into. Luckily that the only injury we witnessed on the mountain.
For the next 12 hours we weaved up and down the spikes of the dinosaur's back, slowly conquering one after the other. Each peak exposing new and amazing views in all directions. Seoraksan's surrounding cities are also visible from several of the peaks as well as the ocean.
The foot traffic on this area was also heavy, but far less intense than our first peak. Several times, at small passage ways or areas only accessible by rope, there was a line to access the next part of the trail. Generally though there was plenty of breathing room to enjoy the beautiful nature. The pathways on Dinosaur ridge are also completely covered by rocks. There are very few locations with dirt paths.
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