Board a bus on a Friday night from Busan to Tongyeong, a little city west on the southeast coast, with a couple cans of Hite and a blue tent left in your apartment last year by a guy called Alex who lived in it before you arrived. Bring a sleeping bag and a copy of The Korea Herald, bought for 1000 won from the newsstand guy at the Seomyeon subway transfer. Look out the darkened window as the engine comes on. Crack the Hite, crack the Herald. Lean back and smile at Joe. It’s Friday. It’s April. The evenings have started to shake off the cold; spring in Korea is on time. You’re going camping.
But first, a night and a morning in Tongyeong…