Who would've thought a staircase could look so fancy?
Take the subway well south of Seoul. When you're not quite sure where you are relative to the capital city, get off. Once you've arrived, go past the huge bus stop where precisely two small buses always seem to be parked. Walk about a block to the main road, and turn right. While a number of buses continue into this relatively rural area south of Seoul, a couple buses make a U-turn to whisk you to another world.